Oxballs Jolt & Volt

The Oxballs Jolt

The Oxballs Jolt

Earlier this week I reviewed the Oxballs Zap and liked it a lot for its smooth sensation and versatility. However at its original purpose – an e-stim ball stretcher – it had a bit of a problem getting full score because it was difficult to put on. Luckily the perverts at Oxballs came up with something.
A couple of month ago Oxballs introduced a new electrifiable ball stretcher: The Jolt. While it is still made out if the medical grade platinum silicone it is not as high yet a bit larger than the Zap so it is probably easier to put on as a ball stretcher. The Jolt uses the same electrodes so the stimulation will be as smooth as with the Zap.

The Oxballs Volt

The Oxballs Volt

If you are still concerned that the stretcher might be too tight for your big balls or want to apply electrodes to other areas of the body take a look at the Oxballs Volt. It is basically an electrode that can be put onto your favorite Oxballs toy to turn it into an e-stim toy.
The Jolt costs $49 as a monopole with one electrode and $59 as a bi-pole with two electrodes so you don’t need another electrode to create a sensation.
The Volt is sold as individual electrodes together with a Sprocket cockring for $30.

E-Stim System Intro Pack

The Front of the E-Stim System Series One

The Front of the E-Stim System Series One

After having featured three E-Stim boxes on the higher end of the price spectrum I have been asked if I could recommend a little bit more affordable power boxes for the interested novice who doesn’t want to dive too deep into the pool financially. And as always I am happy to oblige.

The E-Stim 1 is the most basic and affordable box from E-Stim System. It has one channel and three manipulable modes which are enough to have loads of fun with and figure out if you like the sensation. It is small and runs on 9V batteries so it is easily stores and quickly provided with new energy. Since it can create a wave sensation I know of guys who have bigger boxes yet travel with this small one and a pair of silicone loops to get them off when they are anyway for work.

The Ultra Pack with the Series 1 and two Electrodes

The Ultra Pack with the Series 1 and two Electrodes

While the box itself costs £99 E-Stim System offers two interesting packs for starters: A pack with a pair of silicone loops for £109 and the in my opinion most interesting one with a pair of silicone loops and one of their great premium bi-polar electrodes for £169. If you get yourself a 3.5mm plug onto 2 jacket splitter you can even use both electrodes on this one channel box. Of cause you can’t control the intensity level for both electrode pair individually but still the double stimulation will be mind blowing for a novice. So if you don’t want to spend too much money yet get quality electrodes you can continue using, the Ultra Pack is you best choice.

E-Stim System Conductive Rubber Cock Loops

Vendor: E-Stim System

A Pair of E-Stim System Cock Loops

A Pair of E-Stim System Cock Loops

Construction

The design of this toy is quite simple: you get a pair of 26cm long tubes made out of conductive silicone. Depending on the leads system you are using, you can choose between tubes with a 2mm or 4mm internal diameter. Each tube comes with collar through which you can pull both ends in order to create loops.

Playing with it

I consider this toy THE E-Stim essential. If you buy one pair of electrodes for your box, make it this because it is so versatile. The probably most often used play scenario for this toy is CBT: Put a ball stretcher on, lay one loop around the penis root and the other one around the stretched balls and try some different programs. With some training most men can even turn their box with these electrodes into a milker. For this stimulation put one loop either around the penis root or on the bottom of the shaft and the other one right below the glans and select the stroke program. If you do this on a regular basis your dick will most likely learn to reach an orgasm from the currency induced nerve irritation on the frenulum. For faster trainings results I would recommend adding an anal set up the stimulates the prostate in the same pattern. But always keep in mind to not overdo the stimulation because especially with electro the nerves of your genitals are easily overwrought. So the stimulation might have a nice torture aspect getting your endorphins flowing but won’t make you come. One thing I have heard people doing but strongly would disadvise doing is using the loops as a substitute for an electro sound! The loops are cut from a long tube but the edges are not deburred so they can injure your ureatha! For this kind of games invest into genuine electro sounds or special glans electrodes.

Detail of the Collar Holding the Loops in Shape

Detail of the Collar Holding the Loops in Shape

When playing on the penis I would always recommend putting a TPR stretcher – like mine of the many stretchers and cockrings from Oxballs or Keepburning – because there are easy to handle, are not conducting and will keep the electrodes from touching and thus from short-circuiting. Speaking of short-circuiting: there are bi-polar version of this kind of toy out there which have an isolating connector in the middle! This loops – like most others – are a monopoles. Putting a leads into both ends will short-circuit your box and can destroy it!

Detail of a Connection to a 4mm Lead

Detail of a Connection to a 4mm Lead

But this toy is not limited to CBT. When wearing an isolating glove use the pair as a skin electrode and caress the sub’s skin with it. You can even make an anal electrode out of the pair: Either put one of them into your ass and the other somewhere onto your skin below the waist or put an isolating layer between them – p.e. a piece of freezer bag which is large enough to keep the electrodes separate even when the electrodes shift a bit – and shove both up your butt in order to create a bi-pole.

Maintenance wise this toy is very easy to handle: After having played with it, just wash it in hot water with a bit of detergent in it. Once it’s dried spray or wipe it with a disinfectant. This is especially important when you have used it below your glans because even unnoticed drops of precum can transmit STDs!

Another important play and maintenance aspect to keep in mind is the lube: since the loops are made out of silicone, never use silicone lube on it. On the one hand silicone lube doesn’t conduct currency and on the other hand silicone lube will destroy the silicone of the loops.

Conslusion: Essential and inexpensive E-Stim toy
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Easy to use Maybe a bit short for really BIG cock roots E-Stim Systems £29
Regulation £27,99
Flexible

Erostek ET302R

The box content of the ET302R

The box content of the ET302R

On Sunday I wrote a review of my current electro box, the Erostek ET232. As you could read I really like the box: It is small, powerful and versatile. Yet sometimes at play I wish for something more: A second box for a more elaborate electrode setup, especially with a microphone for a really torture setup (described here). But there is more why I would want an ET302R. Since it is a digital box you can set the output volume very precise and the box stops at the ramping program after one wave so it is ideal for training or getting the endorphins flowing.

The ET302R in action

The ET302R in action

The piece de resistance is that it is a small, portable, remote controllable power box so you can take a walk with your sub and shock him whenever you think he (or you) deserves it. Even just the thought that just a little push on the provided remote control gives most subs a tingle of excitement.

The box costs $399,95 at Mr S and £344.99 at Regulation for all the people living in the EU interested in that box.

A Weekend with Velcro Restraints

Straps of the Standard and Wide Version Compared

Straps of the Standard and Wide Version Compared

Three weeks ago I have spent the weekend in Berlin for the annual BLF Easter event which was a fun time although in unexpected ways. Just in time before packing for Berlin I have gotten two new velcro restraints from HML. I reviewed their first velcro restraint and was quite impressed, After the review was written they incorporated the suggestions I wrote and send me the two new models that came out of this process. So I tried a little experiment: How satisfied would I be with the restraints‘ performance if I only took them with my for the weekend thus being forced to use them?

The answer is: I was surprisingly satisfied. Or to be more precise: I didn’t miss anything yet playing with these restraints meant altering my play style a bit. When fastening roller buckle restraints I tend to pull the closing strap to the maximum in order to give the sub the message that I am in control now and then loosen the restraints that they are comfortable yet tight. This position is mostly a compromise because the space between the holes in the strap specify the raster in how tight you can fasten the restraints. Since you don’t have a buckle to run the velcro strap through there is no fastening effect. But due to the nature of velcro you can adjust the strap in every desired position enabling you to play with the sub’s expectations. I put the wide heavy duty restraints on one sub’s wrists and he really enjoyed the feeling of being bound by a wide strap of solid and soft leather but he waited that the grip of the restraints would decrease which it didn’t because I had already closed the strap. It freaked him out a bit in a good way.

D-Rings of the Standard and Wide Version Compared

D-Rings of the Standard and Wide Version Compared

This easy handling is another thing I have grown fond of. With a bit of training in order to keep the velcro to stick together in a wrong way you can quickly immobilize someone without having to fiddle a strap through a loop. Especially when travelling or packing toys for locations where you can’t walk around with a big bag of toys like the LAB the compact form factor is a nice feature. They are also lighter than restraints of the same size because they have less metal. This might sound like bean counting but if I pack for an event I have to go by plane I am happy for every 100g I can safe.

The Ankle Restraint put into the Heavy Duty Wrist Restraint

The Ankle Restraint put into the Heavy Duty Wrist Restraint

HML also addressed the length problem of the restraints: Along the standard wrist restraints I reviewed last month there is now also a set of ankle restraints available. Since the muscles in the legs are usually stronger than the ones in the arms the velcro strap has to deal with more force. This increased the noises of velcro fighting with the struggling sub but even with a beefy muscle sub they didn’t fail me. Still, if you need more security HML now also makes new heavy duty Velcro restraints from which I could test the wrist restraints. They have twice the amount of velcro with a little bit longer strap than sinlge-strap wrist restraints giving you wider range of circumference. So if your sub has thin ankles you can use them also for fettering the legs for an extra bondage kick. If you want to put them over boots, you have to get the heavy duty ankle restraints. An important thing to keep in mind is that due to the thicker D-ring on the heavy duty restraints the space used for sowing the belt onto the body increases thus the minimum circumference is bigger than on the single-strap version. I have a glove size 7 ½ and while the restraints are not closely fettered onto my wrist they don’t slip over my hand. But for people with really small hands, I recommend the standard wrist restraints. Because naturally I tried out the toys before using them in the field I took all three restraints with me feeling confident that they will perform well when I went out intending to find a sub to top.

Velcro Suspension Restraints

Velcro Suspension Restraints

One thing I have missed in Berlin were hanging restraints. Especially unpadded wrist restraints are uncomfortable when the arms are suspended over the head. HML already makes a set of padded suspension restraints with velcro straps for 149,90€ for these situations which I might review in the future.

Since there is now a set of wrist and ankle restraints out there these restraints will become the second set of everyday restraints I have been looking for quite some time – so I now need to start looking for the third set which locks with a pin.

Long story short: All three velcro restraints I had with me and used extensively during the weekend lived up to the promise to be fully substitutes for unpadded restraints. They will probably become the regular travel restraints for me because especially the non-heavy duty set is small enough to get stores in my toiletry bag.

 

Price overview

Velcro Leather Wrist Restraints 49,90€
Velcro Leather Ankle Restraints 59,90€
Velcro Leather Wrist Restraints Wide 79,90€
Velcro Leather Ankle Restraints Wide 99,90€
Hand Suspension Stirrups 149,90€

 

Mr S Stinger Whip

Vendor: Mr S

The Mr S Stinger Whip

The Mr S Stinger Whip

Construction

The construction of this toy is fairly simple: 15 2mm thick plastic strings with a 3mm thick bead ever 4mm are glued into a flexible plastic tube for approx. 16cm usable length. At the end of the tube is a 20mm long and 17.5mm thick dome-shaped grip so the toy can rest between two fingers a bit like a flogger. At the end of the toy there is a key ring for easy and convenient carrying around everywhere.

Detail of the Tubes with Beads

Detail of the Tubes with Beads

Playing with it

The key ring is a nice touch because this really made to be carried around by a dom at all times. Despite the small size and the flexible tubes this toy can hurt! Depending on the energy you put into the blows it can deliver up to an intense sting. The small size makes it perfect for immediate punishment. I lent it out to a friend of mine who carried it around in the inside pocket of his jacket to hit the finger tips of his sub in training every time he reached out without asking first. Due to the small size and light weight it takes some practice to control this toy when winding up for big blows like in a spanking session. I had a bit of fear that the glue would fail me in intense scene but this toy hasn’t let me down.

But to be honest this toy isn’t really made for large impact play scene. It is a delicate toy which is ideal where finess is needed. I surprised a sub quite a bit who didn’t expect an impact sensation on his nipples. When it comes to CBT a word of warning is in place: Yes, due to the small size and the sting it is ideal for beating wall and shafts. But if the dick is really throbbing hard and the guy is uncut or has frail skin, don’t put too much force into strikes onto the glans because the movement energy will concentrate into the small beads and it can break the skin which you don’t want on an organ with blood jammed into it.

Detail of the Handle with Key Ring for Easy Handling and Storage

Detail of the Handle with Key Ring for Easy Handling and Storage

Like most multi-“tail” impact toys you can use the stinger whip also as a sensual toy by just letting the tip of the tube travel over the sub’s body. If you have a elastic band at hand, bind the tips together which will create a different sensation.

A nice thing in my opinion is that this toy nearly doesn’t color. Of cause some battle marks after a scene are always nice but if you use it like my friend and an educational instrument leaving no marks is a good thing. And since it is made out of plastic cleaning is very easy so you can quickly use it on different partner.

Conslusion: Small, inexpensive yet effective impact toy
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Small & lightweight Hard to control at large space impact play Mr S $14.95
Inexpensive

 

Keepburning Black Hole Tunnel Medium

Vendor: Keepburning

Construction

The Two Color Option: Clear and Black

The Two Color Option: Clear and Black

First things first: Keepburning provided me with this toy for reviewing purposes.

The design of this tunnel plug is simple yet clever. It starts out with a 40mm wide barrel shaped stiff piece of silicone. Its front has a diameter of 39mm increasing to a maximum diameter of 56mm and ends into a softer 43mm measuring tube that has a minimum length of 35mm. Through all this runs a tunnel with 35mm diameter. At the end is a large concave shield that prevents the plug from disappearing even into the greediest hole.

The toy is made out of TPR so I would recommend using water-based lube with it. You can get this toy either in black or clear. Since I like the classic look of black anal toys I mostly used the black one but I have heard from people that own the clear one that it discolors over time a bit.

Detail of the Shield that keeps the Plug from Disappearing

Detail of the Shield that keeps the Plug from Disappearing

Playing with it

A lot of fun was head with this tunnel plug. In general this kind of anal toy is great for humiliation scenes. Due to being made out of high grade silicone this tunnel plug can be worn for extended periods of time causing the wearer to lose control of his bowl movement. This was especially appreciated by adult baby players who the plugs help simulate the lack of sphincter control by babies. This plug also made a person very happy who likes to soil himself and wore this plug for a day under his normal cloths. Of cause this also works the other way around: You can put stuff into the sub without him being able to resist. One of the testees liked the idea of being a party urinal but can’t stand the test of piss so with this plug his colon was turned into a urinal. Beside dirty stuff the tunnel function was well appreciated at fisting parties because lube insertion was easy. If you just want this plug to keep the sphincter of your sub nicely open without any of the nasty side effects, go to your local home improvement store and buy a silicon plug in the plumbing department.

Using a Speculum for Easier Insertion

Using a Speculum for Easier Insertion

I have to admit the handling of this plug is a bit difficult: It lies in the nature of tunnel plug that the front side is dull. I recommend prestretching the sphincter up to at least 60mm diameter so that this plug slides in easily. Even though the silicone of the barrel in front is stiff another thing that made insertion easier was putting a speculum inside the tunnel which keeps it from collapsing.

The smooth surface and material properties of TPR make this toy easy to clean. I recommend first cleaning the toy in hot water and detergent, then rinse it and finally spray some disinfection agent on it. It is an annoying material property of TPR to attract dust. So even when being stores in a sealed container, I recommend washing the toys quickly under warm water before using.

 

Conslusion: Inexpensive yet effective tunnel plug
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Inexpensive Hard to insert Keepburning 32,90€
Comfortable to wear for extended periods of time
Easy to clean

 

Mister B Double Faced Hoods

Mister B Doulbe Faced Leather Hood

Mister B Doulbe Faced Leather Hood

After the last two hood suggestions I got some mails asking for a bit more budget friendly suggestion. A hood I really enjoyed playing with but sadly don’t own yet is the Mister B Double Faced Leather Hood. The design is similar to the HML Isolation Hood I featured last week but has open eyes and lacks the ear padding. This makes it good for not so experienced subs who want the leather gimp look and feel but are freaked out by too much isolation.

Mister B Double Faced Rubber Hood Close

Mister B Double Faced Rubber Hood Close

Mister B Double Faced Rubber Hood Opend

Mister B Double Faced Rubber Hood Opend

Being made out of soft leather it can be worn for extended periods of time and is a great piece of gear when being restrained in a sleepsack. And with a price of 199€, it is not too expensive. For a even more budget friendly option Mister B also has a rubber version of the double faced hood for 149€.

Keepburning Zizi Plasma

Vendor: Keepburning

The Pair of Zizi Plasma Stretcher

The Pair of Zizi Plasma Stretcher

Construction

This toys come in pairs: You get two oval rings which measure 19mm by 27mm. On the short side the ring has a height of 29mm which goes down to 24mm on the middle of the short side. They are made out of TPR which makes them very easily to stretch wide yet the 6mm thick material guarantees a snug fit. Like with every other TPR toy it is resistant towards the most common forms of lube like silicone, water and fat based lubricants.

My pair is black but you can get them in 7 colors from classic black and transparent to vibrant neon colors.

Playing with it

Like the other Zizi Toys I have reviewed so far I have gotten this toy from Mister B.

Due to the small inside diameter and the medium stretch of the thin material together the ergonomic form that recessed towards the middle it is a good stretcher especially for tight balls. Also if your package isn’t too big this toy can work as a cockring. Especially if you like it tight put the second over the first one and enjoy a real squeeze. If you generally like the blood-staunching effect of cockrings regardless of the material put on or two Plasma rings on either end of your dick to staunch the blood in your glans or your entire cock.

An Example of the Stretchiness of the TPR

An Example of the Stretchiness of the TPR

So much for sexual play. For getting kinky you need really loose balls. You can use this toy to squeeze the neck of your balls when only a steel ball stretcher with a small internal diameter is at hand. A nice operational scenario for really low hangers is stretching each ball individually. You need fairly loose sack skin and really low hanging balls for this but once you separated the balls you can hit them individually or attach single silicone loops (or even better: silver coated cooper wire) to really fry them.

I have been playing with this toy for over half a year and I haven’t seen any problems with the material yet. But since the material is thinner than most other TPR toys I can imagine that it will break sooner or later. But with such a low price replacing it every other year shouldn’t be a too big problem.

Conslusion: Versatile and gear-friendly masturbation toy.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Ergonomic shape Medium stretch power compared Keepburning(Manufacturer) 12,90€
Interesting play possibilities for low hangers
2 for 1

Buyer’s Guide to Pup Gear

Ever since I started ToyTorture.com I have been asked why I don’t write about pup gear. There were two reasons for that: First I usually don’t write about fetish gear because there is no way to say that a is better than b when b makes you drool and a leave you cold. Second I am not into pup play and since I always try out the toys I write about myself and I don’t get the head space effect of pup toys I found no way to write about pup toys. But the mails and questions especially from kinkster just getting into the pup scene did not stopp. I have been woofed and growled at, my legs have been humped at events while asking for advice and I have been told that it would be totally pawesome if I wrote about pup gear. So as a Christmas treat (ok, enough now of the bad puppy jokes) I spent the last couple of weeks looking at pup gear, talking to pup players and I finally wrote this (Beginners) Buyer’s Guide to Pup Gear.

As always: If I have gotten something wrong or forgot something please let me know and help me improve this article.

Head Gear

What comes to mind first when you talk about puppy gear are the different puppy hoods. They come in two major styles: Full and open hood. Full hood encase the entire head. Since the pup play community has grown there are hoods out there for almost every breed of dog and they are made out of the major fetish materials rubber and leather. While the rubber ones come mostly only in classic black, there is a wide selection of different leather ones out there; just recently Mr S introduced custom leather puppy hoods catering to the most discriminating demands. Open hoods loosely resemble the style of head harnesses. They usually have a snout, ears and sometimes even a collar and come in rubber, neoprene and leather.

Not really specific puppy gear but purposes wise related are muzzles. Designed to keep the mouth of talkative subs or biting K9s shut they are more of a functional toy than designed to enhance the pup looks. You can get them made out of neoprene, leather or rubber, depending on your fetish and play style. The rubber muzzle from Regulation is quite sturdy but if you attach a leash onto it and the pup pulls to hard there is a chance that the rubber will tear. If the puppy is very active, stay with leather. I have talked to some guys who own puppy hoods and muzzles and they said that there are combinations where you can wear a hood and a muzzle. Sadly there is no general rule of thumb so if you want to wear both pieces of gear you have to try it out.

 

Tails

Another distinctive pup play toy is the tail. The most commonly used are tails that are attached to a butt plug. I would recommend the ones from Square Pegs because they are seamless and thus comfortable to wear even for a longer mosh or walk. They come in different tail shapes, colors and butt plug sizes. Choosing the right plug size is a bit difficult. I was told that it is useful to choose a plug one size larger than you can easily take because the tail stays in place even when you wag and romp without having to constantly pinch your sphincter. However the tail is of no use if you can’t insert it at all due to being too big. Another way of keeping the tail in place is wearing a special kind of harness.

This kind of tail has gained quite some popularity in the non-puppy ass play community: When you are wearing a tail while fucking someone the moving momentum of the tail gets transferred to the plug section which than stimulates the prostate.

If you don’t want to wear a plug-style tail Oxballs and Square Peg have recently introduced tails without the plug. The Square Peg one comes with a base and is designed to be put through a hole, or can be attached to a neoprene or leather harness, the Oxballs is designed to be attached to a special harness.

 

 

Collars

The origin of collars in the BDSM scene as a sign of submission and belonging come from the dog collars. So it is only natural that they fulfill the same purpose in the pup play community. Besides being an indicator they are also practical for attaching a leash or a dog tag.

Collars are probably the piece of pup gear with the widest selection of options. They come in nearly every material and color used in kink. Either coordinate it with your hood or harness or use the collar color as a hanky. If you want an inescapable feeling you can get locking ones or if you want some added play value I recommend getting a collar with more than one D-ring.

If the pup still needs training a shock collar might be the item to get. Especially for novice pups I would recommend shock collars made for BDSM purposes. If you choose one for dogs be real careful with the intensity. The electrodes and outputs are designed to even have a distinct effect when going through thick fur. Since with humans the electrodes touch bare skin on high intensity levels they can leave burn marks or cause nerve damage!

Mitts and Knee Pads

Since puppys tend to be on all fours while playing and the human being isn’t really made for this posture, protection is needed. Mitts are a little bit more fetish than security item. Usually a pup can see where he places his palms, so when choosing mitts the appearance is more important. The most commonly used types of mitts are either lockable bondage ones made out of rubber or leather which leave the pup at the mercy of their handler or mitts that have paw-like prints or cut-outs glued to the bottom. On the other hand knee pads are essential for long term pup play. When being on the knees for an extended period of time they provide comfort and protection, especially when walking around outdoor. They might not look sexy and I haven’t found ones yet tailored to the aesthetic demands of the pup community but every pup player I talked to highly recommended softly padded ones for every pup who enjoys kneeing and being on all fours for extended periods of time.

 

Harnesses

Finding the right harness for a puppy is a two step process: First you need to consider how active the puppy is. If you attach a leash to an active puppy via the harness its material should withstand greater forces so I would recommend buying a leather harness. Otherwise you can either choose rubber, leather or neoprene. The second question is the style: For a more “natural” puppy look I was told to rather take chest harnesses instead of full body harnesses. This doesn’t limit your options that much since in the last couple of years a lot of different chest harness styles – Bulldog, Pitbull, English, Top or Hunter – came out. Like with collars you can most of the times add a second color for piping to match the rest of your gear or express a certain preference hankylike.

Accessories and Play Toys

Once the puppy is full dressed in gear the is an endless amount of accessories out there. A good one to start with are dog tags so other pups and handlers can read the pup name. Besides the dog tags traditionally being made out of metal Oxballs designed cockrings with an attached dog tag so you can show your fetish even when being out in a club without and puppy gear.

When it comes to toys for the actual play, the possibilities are endless. The most common are dog bowls, bite and squeaky toys, either made for bio dogs or from special fetish manufacturers. Naming them all is impossible so I recommend going out to your local pet or fetish store.

 

Items designed for bio dogs

Some players want the real deal and buy stuff designed for bio dogs. In most cases they are a bit cheaper than BDSM toys and naturally of cause more authentic. But always keep in mind that they weren’t design for humans. Especially when it comes to collars they are designed to be worn over a thick fur so irritations are possible. If you want real dog gear I recommend trying it out even more thoroughly than you would do with normal BDSM gear even though that might get you some weird looks at the pet store.

What you should never do is eat real dog food! Most dog food has crushed bones mixed into in order to keep the teeth of dogs from getting too long. The human set of teeth and digestion organs are not design to deal with such food! If you want an almost dog-like appeal by dog treats, give the content to a bio dog and put beef jerky into them.

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