Oxballs Shockballs

The Oxballs Shockball

Vendor: Ballistic Metal

Construction

Like all ball crushers the Shockballs has two plates measuring 189x129mm. The lower one is made out of 6mm thick black acrylic, the top one out of 5.5mm thick clear acrylic. In the upper half, there is a hole in each plate. The lower one of the entire junk, the upper one for just the dick. Both holes are nicely rounded and flawlessly deburred so there will be no unintended pain or injuries. To fit most dick and ball sizes, the Shockballs comes in three hole sizes: 31.7mm & 44.5mm, 38mm & 51mm and 44.5mm & 57.5mm which I have bought.

The plates are connected by a clear acrylic hinge at the top. At the bottom there are two M5 screws for pressing the top plate down on the balls using wings nuts. On the screws there are also nuts as an adjustable compression limiter.

Detail of the Electrodes‘ Upsight with the 4mm Sockets

Below the holes there are two aluminums clamps screwed onto the clear acrylic using three sleeve nuts. The nuts’ round-head are the contact points of the electrodes. To connect the electrode with the power box, there are 4mm holes to fit banana plugs drilled into the bottom of the clamps.

Playing with the Shockballs

The hinge is a blessing and a cruse: Usually with ball crushers your fiddle with two or even three pieces, always risking to pinch some skin. This won’t happen with the Shockballs. But: If the sub already has a full-grown boner it is almost impossible to get the dick through the designated hole so the crusher can’t be closed again. The hinge’s height also limits maximum squeeze to 18mm (and a minimum of 42mm). While that is enough for a strong compression feeling, it won’t cater to the total nut pain pigs who want their balls compressed paper thin.

Detail of the Electrodes‘ Contact Areas

So much for the bad news. The good news is: The toy as an awful lot of fun to play with. While yes, putting it on with a hard dick, especially larger ones, not having to deal with shifting, getting wedged plates made me use the Shockballs way more often than my other ball crushers – even just for crushing. On a more personal note, I also like the industrial look of the brushed aluminum clamps compared to the poles being on the base plate on other e-stim ball crushers which then feature clear top plates. Tough some testees did not like the somewhat obstructed the view on the compressed sack.

The e-stim sensation is generally starts out mostly smooth. But since there are only three contact points it quickly can be turned stingy when the intensity is increased. Since the contact area and mass on both poles is almost identical, the sensation is felt on both poles when connected to one channel of the power box. The most interesting/ deviant stimulation is putting a mass-rich counter pole (everything up from the E-Stim Systems Torpedo Large like the Stuffer or [X]L Black Collection) inside the sub so the stimulation is only felt at the balls. Then choose a program which alternates between the two channels (like HiFreq on the Erostok ET232) so the agony constantly jumps from one side to the other.

Detail of the Screws to Tighten the Crusher

It is general a good idea to put a flexible cockring around junk’s base to keep the balls from retracting back into the body. If a sub has smaller/ tighter balls, I also recommend to stretch his nuts with one of the many flexible cock rings/ ball stretchers from Oxballs. This way they won’t be squeeze through the dick or junk hole (whichever has more slack). If you are really mean, you use the Zapp or Volt to electrify also the ball’s neck.

Conclusion: Nicely looking, easy to handle e-stim ball stretcher – if the dick is soft.
Pros Cons Where to get Price
Easy to put on and comfortable to wear Balls’ compression is limited by hinge height Ballistic Metal $114.95
Quality electrodes
Difficult to put on when dick is already hard

Vyper XL

The E-Stim Systems Vyper XL

Vendor: E-Stim System

Construction

The basis of the Vyper is a rectangular piece of 8mm thick, black, polished plastic which measures 220x145mm. On top of this base plate two pairs of golden sheet electrodes are mounted, each sheet measuring 80x28mm. Using four 55mm long M6 screws a clear 110x110mm and 5mm thick plastic plate can be fixed on top of the base plate and tightened using butterfly nuts. There are two of these plates so the entire base plate can be covered. Depending on the bottom’s dick size, one or two places can be used to torment his dick. At the bottom of the clear plates, the same electrode layout as on the base plate can be found.

There are four terminal pairs on the top and two pairs on the bottom below the upper pair of a compression plate. There is a connection between the upper and lower terminals so even if you don’t attach leads to the lower ones, stimulation will come from the lower electrodes.

Detail of a Terminal a Screw for Tightening the Upper Plate onto the Dick

On top of the board there is a little eyelet through which either rope can be threaded or a carbineer attached. Since the total weight of the toy is 650g, it is a good idea to have something which keeps the Vyper from moving around and thus putting the dick in an unwanted location.

For more compact play luggage E-Stim Systems also offers a short version called “Vyper 2” which is half the size of the Vyper XL reviewed here.

Playing with the Vyper XL

There are two ways of wiring the Vyper: The quick and easy and the more elaborate way. The quick and easy way is always connecting a yellow and a black terminal to one channel of your electro powerbox. This way the simulation direction is left and right and you rule out any chance of short-circuiting your power box. For the more elaborate way, you connect the two alike-colored terminals above each other for a top-bottom-stimulation. In this case you need to place small rubber patches where the top terminals connect to the lower electrodes. Otherwise you will short-circuit your power box! While most premium e-stim boxes can withstand this stress, it is not good for the hardware. Also, you won’t feel almost any stimulation regardless of the power level. Furthermore, make sure that the dick touches the panel you connect the box to. This is especially important with less well-endowed subs.

Detail of how the Upper Terminal connect to the Lower Sheet Electrodes

After the technicalities have been taken care of, now on to the fun stuff. The sensation produced by the Vyper actually depends on the dick size. Since the electrodes have very small mass, the more of the dick covers them, the smoother is the sensation. This leads to interesting mind games: Either endure the dick being pressed more severly for a smother sensation or take less pressure but more stingy e-stim. When compressing the dick, taking it slow and not to extremes is wise. Ironically the cavernous bodies are more sensitive to compression than the balls so do not tighten the top plates to the max. It is actually useful to add a nut or two as a safety barrier. The sensation can be made a bit smoother using conductive lube.

Through the Vyper’s unique layout, it takes a bit of time and experimenting which programs wired which way works best for your sub. For me, programs I never found enjoyable suddenly made sense using the Vyper XL. Playing a little bit with pressure during play – like tightening the lower or loosening the upper plate to “squeeze” an orgasm out of the sub – is also a lot of fun. One sub even managed to cum inside the Vyper just from e-stim.  If you have a “larger” sub, taking single plates off opens a hole new range of play possibilities. Either just fry the glans or polish and sound it while the shaft gets all the stimulation.

Details of a Sheet Electrode Pair

For even more varied CBT scenes, the Vyper can be used without the top plates. Simply use rope or elastic bands to keep the dick pressured against the base plate’s poles while you torment the shaft and glans with (e-stim) pinwheels, pegs, a violet wand or impact play. You can even use wax though it is a pain in the ass to clean off!

Speaking of cleaning, after play spray the exposed areas with a sanitizer and wipe it off afterwards. If you used large amounts of lube, your sub came all over the place or through other means it has gotten completely messy/ dirty, soak it in warm water with dish soap and use a soft sponge. However, take extra care when trying. With so many little gaps and holes, water can linger and cause corrosion!

Conclusion: Unique, little bit bulky design for interesting new, rather stingy e-stim sensations.  
Pro Cons Where to get Price  
Unique electrode layout A bit bulky and cumbersome Vyper £99
Vyper XL £149.99
Great CBT board even without e-stim Especially smaller dicks must be placed exactly in the middle

Oxballs Meatplug Sounds

Vendor: Oxballs

Welcome back from the summer vacation! Taking some time off ToyTorture.com is important for me to get new toys and gather review experience with them, get creative and also enjoy the playroom without purposely use a specific toy just to get to know how it performs.

The new review season starts out with something a lot of you have been asking me for months: The 4th installment of the E-Stim Special. You can look forward to reviews of power boxes, anal electrodes and torture devices. So stay tuned and follow my social media channels.

To kick off the special, I am going to take a look at the Oxballs Meatplug Sounds.

The Oxballs Meatplug-1, -2, Sil-Plug-3 and Meatplug-5

Construction

All Meatplugs share the basic design: They are 80mm long and their base has a diameter of 15mm. On Just above the bottom there is a hole drilled through the base to house a 4mm banana plugs for connecting the sound to an e-stim power box. Above the hole there is an area textured with groves and ridges (or in case of the Meatplug-5 thin silicone rings) for better grip even with lubey fingers.

Out of this base the actual dilator tappers which looks differently on every sound:

  • Meatplug-1: 4mm tip increases over 23mm to 7.5mm, drops to 5.5mm over 5,5mm and then flows into the base within 26mm
  • Meatplug-2: 3.5mm tip increases to 5mm over 10mm. Afterwards there are 5 ridges 5.5mm wide grooves between them. The first ridge has a diameter of 5.5mm and then increases by ¾ of a millimeter each time until it reaches 19mm long shaft with 9mm which ultimately flows into the base.
  • Meatplug-3: This sound starts out with a 8mm half sphere which tapers to a 7mm thick and 5mm long shaft. This shaft extends to a 8.5mm long and 9mm thick bead. After another 5mm of shaft there is another bead (9mm long and 10mm diameter) and again after a shaft section a final bead (9mm long and 10.5mm diameter) until the dilator flows into the base.
  • Meatplug-4: After a relatively dull tip the shaft is smooth until it increases again with a dull yet rounded step twice. I have not bought this sound because it looked too extreme for me so I cannot say much about it.
  • Meatplug-5: The dilator part of this sound is a string of 7 beads with a height of 6.5mm and a diameter of 8mm tapering to 6.5mm at the connection point. Since the beads are not perfect spheres, the tip relatively dull.

The Meatplug-5 connected with Banana Plug Lead to an E-Stim Powerbox

All Meatplugs are made out of aircraft grade aluminum so they are supersmooth for easy and injury-free insertion. They are available in four colors: Polish aluminum (which is silver) and anodized in either red (which is actually a little bit pinkish), black and blue.

Oxballs also makes all five designs in high quality platinum silicone, then called Sil-Plugs. Of course these toys do not have a socket to connect them with an e-stim unit. But instead they come in two red tones and a yellow. My #3 is actually made out of silicone, first because I wanted to compare the different materials and second I could not get my hand on a Meatplug-3 in Europe.

Playing with the Meatplugs

The easiest of my four plugs to take is the #1. The tip is not too pointy to irritate the urethra and it slowly opens the sphincter just below the piss slit up to a reasonable degree. Even most sounding novices usually can take between 6mm and 8mm diameter right away. Just like in anal play, the sphincter needs to be seduced and slowly trained to open up. The plug design where the dilator tappers again after the maximum stretch makes it a good training toy for the sphincter.

Detail of Meatplug-1’s texture

The next toy on the intensity scale is #5. The blunt and large tip makes it necessary for the sphincter to be well pre-stretched (for example with the #1). But once inserted, the diameter does not increase making it easy to relax and get accustomed to the toy. Through the smooth bead design with not too extreme difference between maximum and minimum diameter the sensation of the sound being moved up and down inside the dick feels like a gentle massage.

Despite the sensible diameters, the Meatplug-2 is a challenging and intense sound. The ridges feel relative rough inside the sensitive urethra so the sphincter tenses up easily. But since the diameter increases with every ridge, it is always a challenge for it to open up again further and further when gently fucking the dick with it.

The most challenging one is the #3. While it is a little bit easier to initially take than the #5 due to the half-sphere tip, the stretch of the following beads is intense. 10mm and 10.5mm is really advanced stuff despite the gently increase in diameter. I am actually lucky that I have bought this sound in squishy silicone instead of unforgiving aluminum. I could not imagine how it would feel to stretch this diameters with no give – though I am enticed.

Detail of Meatplug-2’s texture

Despite their rougher texture, the #2 and #5 are not as bad as they look. Sure, they provide an intense stimulation but the grooves also trap a lot of lube so they re-lubricate to a certain extend.

When it comes to e-stim, caution is advised! Due to the little mass and contact area, the sensitivity should be increased very carefully. Also, since all sounds are naturally mono-poles, a second pole is needed for play. I recommend a conductive loop around the balls or the whole junk. Once wired up. each of my three aluminum plugs performs differently. The smoothest is the Meatplug-1. It provides the largest contact area and thus the sensation is easiest to control. The Meatplug-5 provides an interesting sensation combination. Whenever a new bead “pops” in, there is the stretching sensation but the e-stim intensity is reduced a bit. The stimulation drop is usually not noticed by the bottom but the intensity jumps when pulling out is quite noticeable. Just like with un-electrified play, the #2 is the most extreme. The contact area of the ridges is very small, so even the most delicate intensity adjustments will have significant effects.

Detail of Sil-Plug-3’s texture

When playing with sounds, there is actually only one right form of lube: Sterile water-based lube. A classic of sterile lube is KY Lube Steril which comes in a tin tube. But just like the sounding lubes offered by different kink companies as soon as you open them, there is chance of them becoming contaminated. The more often you open them, the higher the chance. So I recommend small sachets with contain between 3ml and 5ml of sterile lube which is enough to insert two or three sounds, depending on how long you use one sound. Because the urethra is one big mucosa, the water-based lube will be absorbed sooner or later. While this can be annoying you do not want to have a foreign material like silicone lube lingering in there after play, providing substrate for bacteria. So even if you prefer silicone or oil-based lube for anal play, I strongly recommend sterile water-based lube in sachets for sounding.

Just like using the right lube, cleaning is imperative when playing with sounds! The best sterile lube is useless if there are bacteria on the sounds. Since aluminum and platinum silicone are pretty resilient materials, I soak mine in hot water with dish soap and scrub them with a soft brush in order not to damage the smooth surface. After drying them on a paper towel, I sanitize them and store them away. Before play, I lay them out on a fresh paper towel, spray them with a sanitizer again, open the lube sachets, then put on a pair of gloves and as the last step, pick up the sounds for play.

Conclusion: Innovative violet wand electrode for a new, unique sensation.  
Pro Cons Where to get Price  
Interesting and unique textures for varied play Not many places sell them Oxballs Meatplugs $28
Oxballs Sil-Plugs $39
E-Stim capable
Easy to clean

Oxballs 360 Sling

The Oxballs 360 Sling

Vendor: Mr S (USA) and Regulation London (EU)

Construction

The 360 Sling is a new iteration of Oxballs’ popular cock and ball sling. I already reviewed several different ones, so it was a natural to also give the 360 a thorough workout. What sets it apart is the compact design. Measuring 75x60x45mm it is almost the same size than the Unit X Stretch. But instead of the Unit X Stretch’s thin walls, the 360 is made out of thick, bulgy tubes having a diameter between 16mm and 24mm. The hole for the dick has a diameter of 30mm. Below it is a 20mm thick tube which separates the balls. The hole for them is a 9x30mm slit. The half below the cock hole is a bit oblique so the junk is pushed forward.

Detail of the Oblique Design

As almost all Oxballs dick and ball toys it is made out of super stretchy FLEX-TPR which comes in classic black, discreet clear or Oxball’s new Steel color.

Playing with the 360 Sling

The big question with all Oxballs sling is: How and how difficult is it to put the toy on? Compared to the other ones I have reviewed I would say, fairly easy. As always start with the balls and then put it over your dick. If you got low-hangers or a beefy ball sack, getting your balls through the narrow slit can be a bit of a challenge. But for most dicks and balls the large holes give enough room for the junk to roam freely when soft so the 360 is comfortable to wear for extended periods of time. Especially through the thick tubes and the oblique design, the sling makes a big package and bulge. So it is an ideal toy for fetish play involving watching, touching or worshipping big packages. Naturally the package comes out best with underwear which hugs the junk like the Mr S logo briefs or their heavy duty gangbang jockstrap. Despite its accommodating design and stretchy, forgiving material, it is tight enough to restrict the blood flow just enough to function as a cockring. Through the thickness of the tubes, the 360 can work as a seal for pumping your dick when you are using thick-wall instead of flanged  cylinders which diameter are not too much larger than you dick’s diameter.

Illustration of the Bulge-Creating Properties

If you have got low-hangers like me, there is a bit of sad news: With just 20mm the stretch on the balls is too little. The balls being pushed forwards adds a little bit of bounciness to jerking off or fucking, but for a real effect you should at least add one or two other rings from Oxballs.

FLEX-TPR is a pretty resilient material so you can safely use it with any kind of lube, making it ideal for gunging worshipping/ wrestling scenes where a big package is appealing. Cleaning it is equally easy: Warm water, dish soap and a sanitizer after it dried will keep it in good shape for scenes to come.

Conclusion: Compact cock and ball sling which makes a great bulge.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Makes great bulge Stretch too little for low-hangers Mr S Leather $22.95
Regulation £19.99
Comfortable to wear over extended periods of time    

 

Duke’s Butt Masturbator

The Bad Dragon Duke’s Butt Masturbator

Vendor: Bad Dragon

Construction

Like almost all masturbators which cover the entire dick, Duke’s Butt has roughly the form of a 190mm long lashlight with a 105mm diameter head which tappers to a 55mm diameter shaft. The opening for the dick is 6x18mm which is just large enough for a comfortable entry yet tight enough for a hot grip. The front of the head is sculptured to look like the anus of a scaly animal, in this case Duke the Bad Dragon which has become Bad Dragon’s mascot. The shaft is textured with deep v-shaped ridges on one and slight bumps which are anatomically placed to support the fingers on the other side. This design enables a somewhat secure grip even with lubey fingers. The inside is rugged with ridges which run parallel and perpendicular. Behind the tight “sphincter” (approx. 70mm behind the opening) there is a small cavern which ends in a relatively high raised ridge on the bump-side of the shaft which feels like a second sphincter.

Detail of the Shaft’s Texturing for better Grip

Like all Bad Dragon toys Duke’s Butt is made out of high-quality platinum-silicone. Like all of the masturbators, it is made in the firmness degree “Super Soft” which is not available for their anal toys. Since each one is hand-made, you can choose from a variety of different colors and patterns. But naturally since it is a “soft” toy, fades are not available.

Playing with Duke’s Butt

Duke’s Butt works like every other masturbator: Lube your dick up excessively (But only use water- or oil-based lubes. Hybrid and silicone ones will disintegrate the toy), put some lube around the opening hole and since the rear is open and accessible, pour some lube inside it, and more or less gently put it onto your dick.

What sets this toy apart from all other masturbators I have come across is the material: If it is a masturbator without a case, it is too firm and I feel uncomfortably disconnected from my dick or if it has a case, it is too soft and floppy. The Bad Dragon ones (in the review process I had a chance of using Janine and Snowball from friends) are thick and strong enough to not collapse, but soft enough that through the grip’s tightness the jerker can control the intensity. The inside’s texturing is firm enough to stimulate yet gives in easily enough for comfortable play. The silicone warms up quickly to body temperature which made the feeling more natural and intimate.

Detail of the Anus Shaped Head

Cleaning Duke’s Butt is easy: Simply put it in warm water with dish soap, let it soak a bit and clean the inside with a thin, soft bottle sponge. You can even put it the dishwasher. For an initial drying, set it onto the head for about 4h until all water has run down and then on the side until the inside is dry. Store it lying on the side without touching other toys. Like all silicone toys, the surface is slightly sticky and it attracts dust list hell.

Choosing the right of the over 20 different Bad Dragon masturbators is difficult. On the one hand there is the internal texturing. Some people prefer heavy and rough texturing over smooth ones. Bad Dragon provides cross-section animations of all masturbators so you can somewhat imagine how they might feel. On the other hand, there is the headspace. Even if you disable the Fantasy product descriptions, some gay men have a hard time imagining fucking a vagina – even if it is the one from a mermaid.

Conclusion: Uniquely textured masturbator for people who prefer individual grip tightness.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Unique internal textures Can’t be used with silicone lube Bad Dragon $95
Grip of the toy equals sensation intensity
Easy to clean
Cool color choices
Disclaimer: This toy was sent to me by Bad Dragon for an honest and unbiased review.

Oxballs Cock Lock

The Oxballs Cock Lock

Vendor: Mr S or Regulation

Construction

The Oxballs Cock Lock is basically a sheath for a soft dick. The tube for the dick is approx. 120 mm long and has a diameter of 35 mm. At the front there is a round hole measuring 8 mm to release piss or (pre)cum. Being made out of Oxballs’ signature FlexTPR it can be twisted and stretched while putting on. It is available in many colors: Clear, black, yellow, clear red and clear blue.

The opening hole and the perpendicular hole for the balls are slightly reinforced, acting a bit like a cockring. Though, if you are not extremely well endowed like me, adding one of their many cockrings or ball stretchers can enhance the feeling.

Detail of the Piss Hole and the Ball Hole

Playing with the Cock Lock

Like with almost every sophisticated Oxballs junk toy, the big question is: How to put it on? The methods which worked best for my testees and me was pulling the tube apart, pull it over the dick as far as possible, then reach through the piss hole and pull on the foreskin until the sheath fits completely. Finally, put the balls through the lower hole. I would not recommend using lube for putting it on. Inevitably the lube will leave the tube and the dick, making the entire toy and fingers slippery and without proper grip, it is almost impossible to put it on.

Obviously this toy is a piece of fetish gear. Depending of the color is draws attention to the dick and increases the bulge under soft, stretchable materials like lycra or rubber. Materials with low stretch like leather will compress the soft material too much.

The Oxballs Cock Lock Equipped with the Funnel

From a more functional point of view the Cock Lock is an “attention focuser”. It puts a barrier between the hand and the dick. So in situation where the bottom should not jerk himself off (for example when getting fisted) but restraining the hands is unpractical (because he should huff poppers), it prevents manipulation of the dick, focusing him on the other induced sensations. A chastity top I know uses it to get his subs used to the feeling of something being constantly around their dick. While the material will somewhat rein in dicks trying to get hard, especially long dicks will push through the piss hole. This characteristic in combination with the fact that you can’t lock the tube onto the dick disqualifies this toy to be an effective long-term chastity device beyond being a mental reminder not to cum.

Detail of the Piss Lock’s Funnel

The Cock Lock is the basis for two other Oxballs toys: The Piss Lock Urinal Cage comes with an aluminum funnel which can be attached to the silicone tubes used to connect vacuum pumps to cylinders or Oxballs own tubes to connect the dick to a matching butt plug or the Chomp gag. The Shocklock features an electrode in the funnel’s shape with a 4mm banana socket. The funnel is quite fun for piss pigs though the diameter is rather small so if the piss pressure is too high, the liquid will leak out of the cage. The electro version is a monopole so you need a counter electrode encouraging the top’s creativity. The most devious setup I experienced was placing the counter electrode on the perineum just above the prostate so the currency flows directly through two sexual body parts with high nerve ending density aka the glans and prostate. If the sub’s soft dick is small, the e-stim version can be used to punish him: As soon as his dick grows large enough to touch the electrode, it will shock him until it goes soft and small again. As an added feature both versions of the aluminum caps prevent the dick from pushing through the piss hole.

Conclusion: Unique dick toy which keeps the sub’s focus on the important sensations.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Prevents jerking during scenes Does not really work for chastity Mr S $47.95
Regulation £44.99
Unique feeling around the dick Difficult to put on
Makes a hot bulge

Oxballs Slung

The Oxballs Slung

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

This toy is basically a triangular ball stretcher with added features. The stretcher is 35mm high and hole through which you put your balls has a diameter of 32mm. The material thickness at the sides is 11mm. The corners are heavily reinforced. There are holes in the middle of the reinforcements in which non-locking carabiners are housed. Their material thickness is 5mm and they measure 50x24mm.

The Slung is made out of Platinum Silicone which means it is hypoallergenic and while being somewhat flexible stiffer than the FLEX-TPR Oxballs uses on other products.

Playing with the Slung

Despite calling the Slung “a ball stretcher” it really works like a parachute. The carabiners are there to have things attached to them. Either weights or – for even more fun  – restraints. I usually attach each wrist or ankle restraint to one of the carabiners and the third to some form of head gear. The more the sub struggles, the harder his balls get tugged.

Detail of the Carabiner Housing

When I first considered buying this toy, I was skeptical if it could work. Knowing how easily my other Oxballs toy stretch for easy handling, I believed that you could easily pull the Slung off balls. But well, it doesn’t. I had a real CBT aficionado over who suspends kilograms of weights from his balls and we attached 8kg to the Slung and let is swing without a problem. It actually works a bit better than a traditional parachute. With leather ones the balls can shift so that the parachute slips off. But the  silicone’s strength and stiffness stretches the sack tightly, keeping the balls in place. This sturdiness in combination with the high material thickness makes the Slung good for ball busting. The nuts stay in place (and furthermore can be tied in place using the carabiners) and the wide rim makes a good contact surface when they get hit. For this kind of play I recommend turning the carbiners parallel to the Slung.

Carabiner Orientation for Ball Busting

However, the stiffness is also a problem when putting it on. You basically need three hands: Two to pull the strong silicone apart to make the hole larger and a third to reach for the balls and pull them through. If you have really strong fingers and are dexterous, you can tie off your balls tightly using other TPR stretchers and maneuver them through on your own while pulling the stretcher open. Also, unlike leather parachutes, the size of the Slung’s hole is naturally not adjustable. So if you have really tiny balls, you will just slip through it.

Being made out of platinum silicone it is quite easy to clean after play: Wash it in hot soap water, let it dry and spray sanitizer on it. Since silicone oil will disintegrate the material, keep silicone lube away from it. Also, silicone attracts dust like almost nothing else.

Conclusion: Unique form of parachute which works better but is a pain in the ass to put on.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Sits more securely then traditional parachute Extremely difficult to put on. Regulation £44.99
Three different attachment points Not for people with small balls

 

Venus 2000

The Venus 2000 with all the Accessories the Standard Package comes with

Vendor: VenusForMen

Construction

The Venus 2000’s main element is the black milker unit itself which houses the vacuum pump. It is made out of a black, slightly textured polymer, measures 240x155x208mm and weights just short of 5½kg. On top there is a handle for “easy” carrying. At the back of the milker there are two ports for the controls: The rotary control to adjust the speed between 8 and 300 strokes per minute and the air control for increasing or decreasing the air pressure inside the receiver which determines how intense the strokes can be felt and how securely the receiver stays on the sub. Both are connected through a 1200mm long cable resp. hose. Also on this panel you plug the power cord in and connect the milker with the receiver using a 1200mm hose.

Detail of the Back Panel of the Milker Unit

Besides the machine itself and the control boxes each Venus 2000 comes with one made to measure receiver. Having a custom fit receiver is the basis for an effective milking because it is not too loose or too tight. A bit of leeway is not a problem though. If you – like me – are often entertaining different dick sizes, VenusForMen can help you with a set which covers the most common dick sizes. However, if you have got a regular play partner, making him bring his own custom receiver is a good idea. The receiver is made out of a transparent polymer and outfitted with a rubber liner. The tube’s top end is sealed with a black vinyl cap which is outfitted with a security valve. Close to the bottom is a short brass duct to connect the receiver with the milking machine. When not in use and especially when cleaning the receiver, the duct should be covered by a black vinyl cap to keep moisture and dust from entering the receiver.

Each receiver you order comes with a 76cm long spare liner for replacement. The Venus 200 package also consists of a cleaning brush, 130ml of water-based ID Glide, the power cord and a little black zipper bag for storing all the accessories.

The Venus 2000’s Controls: Left for the Pressure inside the Receiver, Right Power Switch and Stroke Control

Besides the Venus 2000 I also got the Head & Nipple Massager Set. It consists of two 80mm tall receivers with a diameter of 55mm. along with two 300mm long hoses and a T-connector for connecting both receivers to the main suction hose.

Playing with the Venus 2000

The bad news first: The Venus 2000 is not an “easy out of the box fun” toy. Setting it up the Venus itself only takes a minute: Plug in the power cord and the two controls, connect the receiver with the milker unit, lube up the dick and the inside of the receiver and bit and you are ready to go – theoretically. Practically I find it impossible to adjust the air pressure inside the receiver just so that it stays in place while jerking. There are different ways to keep it in place; I have seen rope or bungee cords in combination with TPR cockrings or different tripod accessory layouts (I use the one YngMstrDetroit developed for his playroom). Once it is setup for play, you run into a bit of a problem when you are uncut: The receiver will inevitably pull your foreskin back which the majority of my testee panel – including me – found uncomfortable and made it harder to come. If you know a way to keep the glans covered when using the Venus, please write me an e-mail! Furthermore despite being compact, it is quite heavy so especially when you air travel it is not a toy you lightly take with you.

My Device to hold the Receiver in place made ouf ot Tripod Accessories (Design by YngMstrDetroit)

So much for the bad part. The good part is, it is a hell of a lot fun as an edging toy. The alternation of increasing and decreasing vacuum massaged the dick and moves the receiver up and down a bit, stimulating the nerve endings and giving the sub the feeling of being close to cumming for extended periods of time. Through overstimulation the feeling can go down a bit, but will come back rather sooner than later.

As a milking toy, the Venus 2000 is a bit like E-Stim: It takes practice. Only few of my testees who have never been connected to a Venus 2000 came during the first scene. It takes some time to figure out which is the best receiver size (if they don’t have their own custom one), how much air pressure needs to be in the tube for optimal stimulation and which stroke speed is the most effective. When it comes to stroke speed, it is an urban legend that more is better. The sensation of the receiver on the dick can be so intense that a quick stroke speed can overexcite the nerves and the sub doesn’t feel anything anymore. So especially for the first two or three milking scenes is to bound the sub comfortably and blindfolded so that he can focus on the milking sensation, get used to it, struggle against the building tension and ultimately give in to one, two or even more orgasms. If you want quick results, additional stimulation like e-stim, vibration on the taint or hypno files are a good thing. Once the sub has learned to climax through the Venus 2000, the fun game of keeping the just on the edge for hours until he loses his mind or making him cum over and over until his dick is sore.

Head & Nipple Massager Set

Of cause there are also kinksters at the other end of the spectrum: People who cum very quickly. I had subs who managed to come within the first minute and then another three time within the next half hour! Scene after scene it became harder for him to shoot so the Venus 2000 actually helped desensitize him a bit. Another testee has problems getting and staying hard. Because the Venus sucks merciless he could reach some quality orgasms with it. Sadly he lives quite far away so we could not look at long-term effects. He actually got himself a used Venus 2000 and now works on his condition. In his experience using the receivers without the liner is more effective because the vacuum pulls directly on the dick like a vacuum pump (I personally prefer the more controlled suction of a dedicated penis pump with more comfortable cylinders). I will update this post in half a year or so to see if regular improves his condition.

A really fun accessory for the Venus 2000 are the Head & Nipple Massager Set.  Especially when you “prime” the nipple with a vacuum pump to be extra sensitive, the waves of suction are fun, especially as a constant stimulation during sensation play. A single massager can be used on the dick in actually two ways. Either with the cap on, just massaging the glans. I found this focused stimulation of the dick’s part with the highest nerve ending density a very effective way to “teach” the dick the Venus stimulation. Also, the shaft is exposed for all kinds of play like way or e-stim just to name two. With the cap off, the massage can be administered along the shaft, leaving the glans exposed to many deviant ideas: Head polishing, sounding, e-stim or adding a massager with a head attachment.

Two Receivers

Finally a word on the lubes you should use with the receivers. VenusForMen recommends only water-based lubes. I will add that slicker ones like the ID Glide which comes with the toy or Elbow Grease H2O Thick Gel work better then thinner ones like Swiss Navy because the thicker will stay in place. Finding the right amount of lube takes practice. Use too little and the milking will not be comfortable enough for the sub to climax (entering the realm of CBT…), use too much and the receiver can pop off too easily. In any case you should relube regularly. In the manual VenusForMen advises against using silicone and oil-based lube. While oil-based lube destroys the liner, you can actually use silicone lube if you are careful. Use only little and don’t distribute it too generously because the cap at the top only stays in place through friction. If silicone lube gets between the cap and the liner, the pressure inside the liner will be strong enough to make it pop off. Once silicone lube has gotten there, it is a pain in the ass to get every last bit cleaned up so the cap sticks again.

Conclusion: Powerful milking machine with requires experience to unleash the full potential.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Very strong and finely adjustable stroke Requires device to keep in receiver in place Venus 2000 $956
Additional Receiver $39
Receiver is custom build for best stimulation Head & Nipple Massager Set $78
In most cases dick needs to “learn” to orgasm from the stimulation
Easy to set up and compact for storing away
High quality build
Disclaimer: This toy was sent to me by VenusForMen for an honest and unbiased review.

 

LA Pump Cylinders & Vacuum Pump

La Pump Toys from left to right: Trigger Pump, Nipple Cylinder, Elliptical Cylinder, Thick-Wall Cylinder & Rosebud Cylinder

Vendor: Uberkinky

Construction

The toy you need for all pumping action is the actual pump. I have gotten a very basic one made out of plastic which does the job and is light-weight. One of my more pumping experienced testees actually prefers this kind of pumps for traveling because they are light and simple so are quite sturdy. It has only two moving parts: The grip you pull for pumping and a button for releasing the vacuum located right next to the hose. The hose is 50cm long and made out of transparent silicone with a one connector at the other end which fits into the vacuum valve on the cylinders.

Cylinders are the toys which are put on the body part which should be pumped. All cylinders from LA Pump are handcrafted from a sturdy polymer. The most common cylinders are the ones for pumping your penis and I have gotten two of them. First there is the round thick-wall cylinder which gets his name from the 7mm thick walls. It is rounded at the bottom for a good and comfortable vacuum seal. The other cylinder is an elliptical one so its shape is more like the one of a penis. At the bottom is has a flange which is between 12mm and 17mm wide. The flange distributes the vacuum pressure more evenly making it more comfortable to wear over long time and more intense scenes. To determine the correct size for your cock cylinder a rule of thumb is taking one third of your dick’s circumference as the diameter.

Detail of the Rosebud Cylinder’s Rod

Switching to the body’s rear I have gotten a rosebud cylinder for ass pumping. It is a 165mm long round cylinder with diameter of 75mm which ends in a rounded, elliptical flange which width increases from 11mm to 17mm. In the middle of the cylinder there is 254mm long and 25mm thick rod which is screwed and glues to the cylinder’s top. This rod goes inside your anus. Sadly this cylinder comes in one size only. So if your ass quiet experienced there can be a problem because the rod is too thin to form a vacuum along the sphincter. If that happens, don’t try to forcefully create a vacuum but continue pumping. This can lead to internal injuries!

For going up the torso I have gotten two nipple cylinders. They are 104.5mm long including the vacuum valve and have 7mm flange at the bottom for more comfortable long term scenes. To really feel the vacuum sensation on the nipple the internal diameter should be slightly smaller than areola.

Detail of the Cylinder’s Vacuum Valve and the Hose’s Connector

Playing with the Pump & Cylinders

Getting ready for pumping takes a bit of preparation. The body area onto which the cylinder’s rim sits should be mostly hairless because hair below the rim can prevent a vacuum seal from forming. For a smoother experience some people cover the rim and the bottom 5cm of the cylinder’s inside or the soon to be pumped body area with lube so the skin can get sucked in more easily. Personally I did not feel the need to do so but if you are having a pinching sensation around the cylinder when pumping give it a try.

When you are ready to pump, connect the pump to the cylinder and lightly press the cylinder against your body so the rim sinks into the tissue a bit. Especially with the rosebud cylinder you might need a second person for this because regardless if you are in doggy position or lying on your back, holding the cylinder in place and pumping at the same time is a bit awkward and clumsy.  Slowly start pumping until you feel a bit of a draft sensation. Stop until the sensation slowly fades away, than pump again. The aim of pumping is to maintain a pleasurable pulling sensation all the time. Pumping too quickly can lead to injuries. Good pumps have a gauge so you can see how much suction there is already inside the cylinder. If you want to take a break while pumping and walk around with your cylinder stuck to your body or pump on a different cylinder, push the little leaver on the vacuum vavle and pull the hose connector out. The vacuum will be maintained. To release the vacuum, connect the pump with the cylinder again and push the button next to the hose. When cock pumping I personally prefer the thick-wall cylinder. Due to its thicker wall it is heavier and feeling the heavy, solid cylinder in my hand while I see my dick grow is a horny mindfuck.

Difference of the Cylinder’s Bottom between a Thick-Wall (left) and Elliptical with a Flange (right)

After playing wash the cylinder wish warm soap water and if you use it on multiple partners sanitize it. The agents on the sanitizers can make the polymer dull so be prepared that over time the cylinders will lose a bit of their crystal appeal. Before using the cylinders again they should really be dry including the vacuum valve! Otherwise moisture can get sucked into the pump causing damage in the long run.

So much for the technical part; now to the anatomical. Cock pumps can have a beneficial effect on your sexual health and stamina. Pumping draws blood into the pumped body area increasing the blood flow making getting and maintaining an erecting more easily. Besides blood tissue fluid is getting pumped into the body area giving a puffy feel and increase the temporarily increase the size. When jerking off after pumping it will feel a bit like stroking a stranger’s dick which can be a hot experience on its own. Furthermore the light draft stress of the vacuum makes the nerve endings more sensible which lead to more intense orgasms or more intense nipple or ass play.

The Basic Trigger Pump without a Gauge

Cock pumps are often advertised to facilitate penis growth but sadly there isn’t scientific evidence that even after long and regular pumping your penis will permanently grow significantly. There can be a bit of increase in length and girth but don’t expect the increase to be measurable in centimeters – at least if you are interested in a rock hard dick. If you pump very often and for very extended periods of time the size will increase but the dick will feel soft and soggy because you are basically outstretching the skin and facilitate permanent tissue fluid accumulations. In a worst case scenario your dick will lose its ability to become hard. This “sponge dick” appears when you pump too quickly so the blood shooting into the cavernous bodies damages them. In a really bad case a blood vessel in your erect penis can erupt which is a case to call the ambulance! Pumping “hard” on body areas without cavernous bodies like the ass or nipple is not dangerous but can “just” lead to hematomas.

Conclusion: High quality cylinders with a basic pump.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Cock & Nipple Cylinders come in various sizes to fit all dick sizes & shapes Rosebud cylinder only comes in one size Thick Wall Cylinder £99.99
Elliptical Cylinder £99.99
Pump has no gauge Nipple Cylinder £69.99
Well made out of high quality materials for a good and comfortable vacuum seal Rosebud Cylinder £159.99
Basic Pump £16.99
Disclaimer: This toy was sent to me by Uberkinky for an honest and unbiased review.

Dr. Sado Silicone Sounds

The Dr. Sado Silicone Sounds

Vendor: Meo

Construction

The sounds are made out of black high quality silicone. They are very flexible, quite soft and have a smooth surface without a seam you sometimes see on silicone anal toys for example. Their front is a bit tapered for easy insertion. At the end there is a cube shaped appendix which keep the sound from slipping in all the way and make controlling the toy a little bit more easy even with lubey fingers. The total lengths of the sounds are 350mm and are available in diameters from 3.5mm to 11.5mm. The larger the diameter the larger the cube at the end so the insertable length decreases a bit with raising diameter.

The Dr. Sado Silicone Sounds are so flexible you can tie various knots into them

Playing with Dr. Sado Silicone Sounds

These sounds are perfect for intense sounding scenes. The length in combination with slightly squishy material allows playing with parts of the urethra a metal sound could never reach. The friction and stretching sensation deeper inside than any metal sound can reach alone is interesting enough for experienced sounders. Since the silicone sounds are a little bit more ridged and through the cube at the end more easily controllable than a catheter tube they are good toys to prepare a novice for this kind of play. Once deep inside the sounds are long and flexible enough to play with the bladder’s sphincter and once penetrated with the inner side of the prostate. Since a sterile environment is paramount when fisting (see last paragraph) I would not recommend stimulating the prostate on both sides with a sound and a finger up the ass at the same time. Despite being made out of super smooth silicone the surface is still a bit “dull” and will never be as smooth as metal so I recommend using more lube than usually.

Detail of the Sounds‘ Tapered End for Easy Insertion

For choosing the right sound size two things should be considered: A too thin sound will be “spikey” and a little bit more difficult to insert; a too thick one won’t fit because the urethra has not been pre-stretched far enough. I have gotten three sounds with the diameter of 4.5mm, 5.5mm and 7.5mm which cover the most common diameters for sounding.

I would not recommend these sounds for beginners, especially when sounding on your one instead of getting sounded. When having lubey fingers through their length they are a bit hard to handle at times. Since they are light and a bit soft they have to be pushed in actively, requiring the sub to know the difference between a “good” and a “bad” stretching pain. For beginners I recommend stainless steel sounds. Simply put them into the tip of the dick until the first sphincter and let the weight of the sound do the work of gradually sinking in.

Detail of the Cube Shaped Appendix which prevents the Sounds from Disappearing into the Dick

One of the most important things when it comes to sounding is sterilization. Failing to play with sterile toys and lube and in an unclean environment can lead to nasty infections! Since these sounds are made out of silicone flaming them is not an option. To be absolutely after using them, wash them carefully with dish soap and then put them into boiling water for 10 minutes. Store them carefully apart from each other and not touching other toys in a clean environment to prevent plasticizers from harming the silicone. Right before I recommend cleaning them again. Silicone attracts dust as almost nothing else and dust doesn’t belong in a urethra! After washing them just with water and drying them, they should be sprayed with a skin-friendly sanitizer and wipe it off afterwards using a paper towel. For inserting them into a urethra use sterile lube. Friends of mine have been very satisfied with Meo’s VERYDEEP sterile lube. However since I am overly cautious, I do not trust sterile lube once opened, so for every scene I use a new sachet of sterile lube you can buy in pharmacies. I would only recommend using water-based lube and thus relube regularly during a long scene. Silicone lube will break down the material of the silicone sounds. Furthermore the ingredients of medical water-based lube are designed to be absorbed and processed by the human body so after some time there will be no lube left in the urethra unlike silicone lube which can linger than until everything has been pissed out.

Conclusion: Long and flexible sounds for intense play of sounding pros.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Very long and flexible to stimulate parts inside the penis a metal sound could never reach Difficult to control when lubed up despite the cube appendix Meo  36€ – 49€
Appendix which keeps sound from sliding into the dick completely
Silicone attracts dust easily so more scene preparation required than with metal sounds
 Disclaimer: This toy was sent to me by Uberkinky for an honest and unbiased review.

 

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