Wrist Binder

The 665 Leather Wrist Binder

Vendor: 665 Leather

Construction

The Wrist Binder look a bit like handcuffs from the early 20th century and is made milled out of 25mm thick aircraft-grade aluminum. The material makes them really light at 318g without compromising the sturdiness and rigidness. All edges have been properly deburred to prevent cuts and scratches. Out of the box the Wrist Binder have a beautiful stroke matting but since aluminum is a soft material it quickly gets tarnished with scratches.

Detail of the Hing Mechanism in Use

For comfortable wearing the wrists are put cuffs shaped like stretched ovals measuring 75x57mm. They are large enough even for larger wrists but small enough that a person with a M glove size and not too collapsible hands can’t pull them out. The two cuffs are connected by a twistable hinge. The cuffs are closed by pad locks which are put through eyelets on the top of the long side of the cuff. The eyelets have a diameter of 7mm which is a standard pad lock size just in case there is already a keyed-alike lock system in use. Otherwise the Wrist Binder came with two brass Master Locks. On each side, parallel to the hinge in the middle, there is an 13mm eyelet milled out of 9mm thick aluminum.

The Wrist Binder as shown on 665 Leather’s Website

Playing with the Wrist Binder

The Wrist Binder was a gift from a couple of friends for my birthday this March. It was on my wishlist because I was looking for restraints to incorporate into rope bondage. On 665 Leather’s website I found Wrist Binder pictured on the right: The look like a handcuff with a hinge on one side, an eyelet for a pad lock on the other side and two huge eyelets in the middle for rope. What my friends got from the US was what I am reviewing here. So I got in touch with 665 Leather, trying to get the item my friend ordered for me. I was told that on the website are pictures of the old version and I have gotten the new one. Roughly 9 months after my birthday the still have not changed the pictures on their website so I am not sure what toy will be sent when the “Wrist Binder” is ordered through the link below.

Detail of the Locking with the Pad Lock Shipped with the Toy

As a handcuff the Wrist Binder works really well. Through the ergonomic shape and the rounded edges they are comfortable to wear even for extended periods of time. The width of the aluminum, the ability to twist the wrists against each other and the fact that they can’t be retightened almost eliminates the risk of nerve damage which sometimes can occur when police handcuffs are worn too tight or for too long. If a stricter bondage is desired, a 300mm zip-tie can be used instead of pad locks. This will limit the ability to twist immensely.

But how does the Wrist Binder work incorporated in a bondage layout, using rope, chain or other means? For the original purpose – rope bondage – they do not work at all! Through the ability to twist, unintended pull and tangling can happen, messing up the rigging. In a testing scene I was actually forced to cut rope for the first time in my life because while twisting, rope got caught in the hinge!

Detail of how Easily the Satin Finish scratches

The position of the bondage anchor points are also unfortunate for attaching them easily to collars, shoulder restraints, etc. The top always has to use carabiners, chain or something else to create an anchor point above the wrists not next to them. For stress position, like the arms stretched out, I guess it is a bit better than the one on their website because through the twisting the hands can be brought into a somewhat more comfortable position if need. However, since the metal does not give in, a sub put into stress position using this restraint must be watched extra well!

Conclusion: Good handcuff with sadly little usage for the two bondage anchor points.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Secure and comfortable to wear for long periods of time … but hinge makes bondage anchor points difficult to use 665 Leather $78
Keyed-alike locks can be used  
Wrists can be comfortable positioned through hinge…

Gripz Paddle

Vendor: Ballistic Metal

The Ballistic Gripz Paddle

Construction

The Gripz Paddle is made out of 6mm thick brushed aluminum. The edges are well rounded so there are no sharp ridges. It comes in two sizes with the smaller one being about 300mm long and the larger one 450mm of which 160mm are for handle which tappers out of the body. It is covered in a vinyl sheath which you can either leave on the handle for a better grip or take it off to take advantage of the hole at the bottom for better storage or threading a leather loop through it. The paddle I have been sent for reviewing is kind of a hybrid version because it is a large one cut down to a two-patch version.

Detail of the Handle and the Vinyl Cover

The hitting surface is 87mm wide and depending on size 140mm resp. 290mm long. On both sides of the paddle’s head 66x66mm squares are milled and black rubber pads with a pyramid texture are glued into them. The small version has two patches, the larger three.

For a small fee Ballistic Metal offers personalization through engraving on all their aluminum toys. So you can add name your paddle like a sword or simply have your nickname added so you can identify your toys in a play party.

Detail of the Gripz Rubber Pads with a Pyramid Texture

Playing with the Gripz Paddle

Through the shape and size, the Gripz is a very traditional spanking paddle. The smaller one is perfect for targeting individual cheeks and still just nimble enough for bastinado while the larger one has the right size for hitting the entire ass, thighs or even belly spanking. Through the thickness the aluminum will not give in a bit so the entire kinetic energy of the impact is transformed into pain making the Gripz a stingy toy – like all aluminum paddles. But the rubber pads make it extra nasty. The rubber itself adds even more sting, taking away all of the little thud aluminum impact toys have due their weight. For extra meanness, shift the paddle a bit in the impact moment so it travels over the skin to add a burning abrasive sensation. Due to this the Gripz colors the sub more quickly than other aluminum paddles. Through the pyramids’ “spikey” imprint and abrasion the first color is a bright red which darkens quickly and eventually turns into bruises, depending on the impact force. The paddle is light enough not to pose a threat on well-padded body areas, but when hitting delicate areas like foot soles, caution is advisable in order not to break bones.

An E-Stim Lead attached to the Paddle

The small version is surprisingly well balanced. When I had the chance to try out the larger one from a friend it was like all aluminum paddles head heavy. But since this brute is not made for an hour-long scene, this does not really matter.

Beyond impact play, the rough texture of the pads make the Gripz a fun toys for sensation play. Let it lightly travel over the body for tickling and teasing the sub or rub it over forcefully for a burning sensation. This is especially agonizing at the nipples or the glans. For sensation play, I found the smaller version easier to use because it is more nimble.

Detail of a Custom Engravement

To add a sensation, you can take advantage of the material properties of aluminum. First, it easily takes on temperature. But since the rubber patches are glued to the aluminum, I would not recommend to put it into the freezer to cool it down or to heat the at all Gripz. For cooling down, use cooling pads for a gentle, controlled cooling and enjoy your sub squirming when cold aluminum hits the warm-spanked skin. Aluminum also conducts electricity so I tape a 4mm banana plug lead to the handle, attach the counter-electrode to the balls and choose a program with continuous output on the power box. For safety reasons, the counter electrodes and the impact area must be below the waist! Introducing the paddle to e-stim play is usually very surprising to the sub but since you have to deal with leads dangling between you, the sub and the power box, it is not for long, forceful scenes.

Conclusion: The meanest, fastest coloring aluminum paddle in my collection.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Extra stingy and abrasive sensation Ballistic Metal Small $79.95

Large $89.95

Good for sensation play
Virtually indestructible and customizable
Optional hole for storage/ loop

Oxballs Kick Ass Paddle

The Oxballs Kick Ass Paddle

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

The Kick Ass Paddle is made by Ballistic Metal for Oxballs. It is made out of brushed aluminum. The edges are well rounded so there are no sharp ridges. With an overall length of 290mm it is one of the smaller impact implements on the market. Being made out of metal it still weights 300g.

The hitting surface measures 95x105mm with the upper half being a semi-circle. While one side of the hitting surface is smooth, onto the other side a 10mm thick heel part of a boot’s sole is glued. It is made out of a firm black rubber material. The handle is 185mm long and 32mm wide. Its lower half has a vinyl cover for better grip. Like all aluminum paddles with this vinyl cover made by Ballistic Metal there is no hole at the bottom of the handle for easier storage.

The Smoothing Hitting Surface with a Detail of the Brushing and Rounded Edges

Playing with the Kick Ass Paddle

The small and rounded shape of the hitting surface makes the Kick Ass Paddle ideal for precise targeting of small areas like a single ass cheek or areas which are usually targeted with punching like the pecs or upper arms. One top friend of mine even uses it for bastinado though through the relatively long handle it takes some practice. With lighter swing and more control the Kick Ass is just still small enough for ball play from tapping to busting. The handle is long enough for some leverage so you can even do some crushing action between the hitting surface and a metal ball stretcher.

Detail of the Tread of the Boot’s Sole Side of the Hitting Surface

Both sides induce distinct sensations. The smooth side has some thud to it and is a real bruiser with high energy impact play. The textured side is stingy. The tread is high enough with space between the raised bits that the air caught between the hitting surface and the body can escape so there is not air cushion to soften the blow. The edges of the tread are not sharp but especially when you pull perpendicularly at the impact moment the sole pattern has some abrasive qualities. This side mostly reddens and doesn’t leave bruises. But if you target precisely you can imprint the sub’s cheeks with the boot pattern.

A nice material property of aluminum is the fact that is quickly takes on temperature. So when the area is nicely spanked red and warm dip the paddle into a bucket of ice water for a minute to let it cool down. The sensation of a cold paddle hitting a warm body area is quite unique.

Due to the short handle and the thick and rather heavy boot sole, the paddle is rather head-heavy. Especially when spanking in an even rhythm a dynamic quickly develops which can tire out the wrist.

Conclusion: Mean and nimble paddle with two distinct impact sensations.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Two distinct impact sensations Head-heavy Regulation £69.99
No hole/ loop for storage
Good size for targeting small areas

Anal Toys 101

Finding the right anal toy and keeping it in good shape so it lasts for a long time can be a bit of a challenge. In this 101 I talk about what to consider when buying an anal toy and how to care for it properly.

Buyer’s Guide to Anal toys

There are many aspects to consider when choosing an anal toy. Especially when you are buying your first one and have not developed personal preferences yet, giving each aspect some thought is a good idea because a good anal toy is quite an investment. But if chosen wisely will bring you fun for years to come.

Material

Deciding out of which material your new anal toy is going to be made is the first step when choosing it because the material properties impact many relevant aspects of anal play.

Material composition

This is the most important aspect of choosing a toy. In the old days before EU regulations and custom testing imported goods, toys which I would not have recommended to put up your butt were widely available!

The inside of your colon is basically one big mucosal that will happily absorb whatever the lube (especially water-based lube) washes out of the toy’s material. Thus I recommend only purchasing toys which are manufactured in the EU or USA where dangerous plasticizers like phthalates or lead as a catalytic agent for silicone are forbidden. Just to be safe look for the label “Platinum Silicone” or “Phthalates Free” when choosing a toy. At the end of Buyer’s Guide there is a list of manufacturers I personally source from if you want a recommendation.

Lube

Not every lube can be used with every material. Some lubes will actually cause to disintegrate your toy. Thus depending on your lube preferences you have to choose the toy material.

The following chart shows which lube can generally speaking be safely used with which material. Of cause individual material composition can lead to unexpected effects. If you want to err on the side of safety only use water-based lube.

Water-base Lube Silicone-Base Lube Hybrid Lube Oil/Fat-Base Lube
Silicone X X
PVC/ Vinyl
Rubber X
TPR (✔) (✔)
Other hard Plastic
Wood
Glass
Metal

The Square Peg Charlie Horse Wiggly in Supersoft Bronze from Regulation

Firmness & Surface Smoothness

While glass, metal and wood are always hard, the plastic ones come in different degrees of firmness. With the latter group the thickness is also influenced by the thickness. The thicker a toy the harder it will feel.

Which degree of firmness is good is depends on the usage situation. For training your ass a softer toy is better because it adjusts a bit to the sphincter. For wearing a toy for an extended period of time a harder material is better because the sphincter will adjust to the form of the toy which is more comfortable in the long run. Also with hard surfaces the likelihood of skin folds and thus a pinching sensation decreases.

The firmness also impacts the structural integrity. The firmer the toy the easier it will stand up by itself. This is especially important then you want to ride or sit on a toy. If it is too soft, it will collapse.

Furthermore the surface structure is important. The smoother the surface the easier the toy glides in and the easier it will be to clean.

Pervertables

A quick word on pervertables: There are wooden, metal and glass objects which are not made for anal play but are being used for it, most prominently baseball bats or batons. Before inserting them into your rectum make sure they are deburred and 100% smooth! Especially which with wood it is imperative that is has a sanded and treated surface! Getting a splinter into your colon is always a reason to rush to the ER! As for glass objects, especially vases and bottles: Keep them out of your ass! The glass used to anal toys is a special type of glass that almost never breaks and glass anal toys are always solid. The injuries caused by shards of broken glass inside your rectum can be lethal!

The Bolder Stoll Doll from Regulation

Toy Form Factor

There are two major form factors: Dildos, which are compared to their thickness relatively long shafts with a tapered ending for easier insertion, and plugs, which are shorter and between the maximum diameter and the base taper again so they can stay inside the butt.

Dildos

Dildos are probably the oldest sex toys humans invented. Stone penises as old as 28.000 years have been excavated. They induce a friction sensation on the nerve endings inside the sphincter while sliding in and out and at best hit the prostate. Depending on the glans’ shape there can be some stretching sensation.

Dildos come in two varieties. The first one are realistic dildos. They mimic the penis shape of humans, animal or anthropomorphic beings. This means the shaft is textured with veins which intensify the friction and thus the sensation. At the bottom end most of the them feature a base shaped like balls. The second variety are shape dildos. They are bullet or torpedo shaped and lack natural texturing.

The Square Peg Depth Probe from Regulation

Somewhere between dildos and plugs are shape dildos which consist of a series of bulges. The most extreme form of this form are anal beads. They are a series of balls connected by a string or a tubes which are inserted into the ass and then slowly pulled out. Of cause these toys aim to create a stretching sensation rather than a friction one.

A special form of dildos are so call depth trainers, also commonly called colon snakes. They are long (at least 35cm long), made out of flexible materials and don’t have much texture; a depth indication scale at most. They are designed to seduce the second sphincter to gradually open up to prepare for deep fisting.  Since this sphincter is not used to physical stimulation and unlike the anus can’t be relaxed purposefully, training it takes some time. So don’t rush it!

The Oxballs Pig Hole Deep from Mr S

Plugs

The shape of a butt plugs is best compared to the bottom half of a sand clock. From the tip they gradually increase in diameter and then – depending on the plug – either taper again or go directly into a short neck which is attached to a base. Through the gradually increasing diameter the main sensation of plugs is a stretching one.  So plugs are good to slowly accustom to and train the sphincter to a certain diameter.

A special form of plugs are hollow or tunnel plugs. Their outside form is like a butt plug but instead of being solid they have hole in the middle. Through the opening in the middle the tip is dull. So even if you can take the maximum diameter of the plug you might not be able to take it or only after a long pre-stretching. The hole is useful for many things. Through it lube or other liquids can be poured or the closing function of the sphincter can temporarily be taken away. The plug also protects the nerve endings in the sphincter from friction. Thus hollow plugs are especially useful in combination with depth trainers. Such plugs shield the anus from the friction sensation allowing the bottom to focus on what is happening at his second sphincter. When the tunnel plug is made out of a stretchy material (and is large enough) it can be used to fist through it making a formally too small interesting again or put it over a standard butt plug to increase its size.

With the increasing popularity of pet play there is a growing market of tail plugs. Instead of a base an appendix mimicking the look of an animal’s tail (most common are dog and pig tails) is attached to the plug’s body.  When choosing a tail keep two things in mind: Don’t buy a too small plug section because if it slides in too easily it will also slide out easily causing you to lose the tail when walking or wagging. Furthermore the mass ration between the plug and the tail should not be too much off. The center of gravity should be at the plug otherwise there is also the danger of the tail popping out easily. Tails are also popular with switchers not into pet play. When fucking somebody the tail will develop an momentum which is transferred to the plug section which than stimulates the prostate.

Finding the Right Size & Form

The following factors determined first if you will be able to take the anal toy and second how much you will enjoy it.

The Domestic Partner Crack Attack from Regulation

Maximum Diameter

Usually 3cm to 4cm is a good size to start out anal play. As you progress to bigger toys I recommend going up in steps of 1cm to 1.5cm increased maximum diameter. This is enough of a challenge yet you get the satisfaction of conquering the toy after a couple of days to weeks depending on how thoroughly you train. I know that this is costly by trying to get a toy in for weeks and always failing is very frustrating!

Slope

The slope of a toy defines how quickly the diameter from the tip on increases.

Even though the sphincter at the anus can somewhat voluntarily be relaxed it still is a muscle humans cannot control completely. It needs to be seduced to open up and in order to establish a certain training level actually carefully (!) stretched like every other muscle. Thus generally speaking steeper slopes are better because they allow the sphincter to open up more gradually. Especially when you are a novice stay away from toys with large dull tips because it will just press against the sphincter and it won’t open up. But even with a well-trained ass you will encounter toys that diameter wise are not really a challenge yet you won’t be able to take due to a weird slope. Sadly there now way to know before the purchase with which toys this is going to be the case so please be prepared for one or two useless purchases.

At butt plugs there are two slopes to look it: First the one before the maximum diameter which I just talked about. The second one is the one behind it. It defines how easily the toy comes out again. When you want to train your sphincter a steep slope is preferable. Once inside you can slowly fuck yourself with the plug, enjoying the stretching sensation. If you want to wear the plug for an extended period of time a duller to non-existing slope is preferable because it makes involuntarily popping out more difficult. However please keep in mind: When keeping a plug in, the “warm-up” effect of pushing it in slowly fades so seducing your sphincter to open up and release the plug becomes increasingly more difficult when keeping it in for long.

The Square Peg Happy Hour from Mr S

Position of Widest Diameter

Especially when you progress in training the position of the widest diameter becomes an important aspect to keep in mind. If you stick with a steep slope and increase the diameter the location of the maximum diameter moves further away from the tip so you have to insert more length for the maximum stretch. Since the colon is a quite small body cavern you might not reach the neck or even the maximum diameter. From a psychological point of view this is bad when training because inserting a toy completely fills you with a sense of accomplishment and giving you an opportunity to rest. This is usually a boost of eagerness to train further. Constantly failing on a plug is quite demotivating.

Texture

The texture describes the surface of a toy beyond the material properties (see: Firmness & Surface Smoothness). Since texture increases the friction of a toy it makes the insertion more difficult. So a textured toy with a diameter you usually take easily might not fit afterall.

In the section about natural dildos I have already briefly talked about natural texturing. They comprise of veins, the molded glans and foreskin and when we look at anthropomorphic toys scales, etc.

Detail of the Convex Shape and the Heavily Textured Surface of Apollo the Chimera

On shape dildos and plugs these three texture patters can be found (in ascending order of intensity): Groves, bumps and ridges. Which form delivers the best sensation is very individual. But a good rule of thumb is: the higher the texture is risen the stronger the stimulation. This of cause means that these toys are meant for play when the hole is already relaxed and well played with so it is not about the stretching (sensation) but about teasing the nerves in the sphincter. Please keep in mind that this form of play can wear out an ass quickly so be prepared for the scene to end rather sooner than later.

Extra Features

Sometimes toys come with extra features for a more intense or varied play. The most commonly found extra are sucktion cups. They enable you to temporarily securely attach the toy to a smooth surface (tiles are best for it) using vacuum. This is nifty feature when you really want to ride at toy so it doesn’t slip away.

For training the sphincter or creating a feeling of being stuffed without being able to take large diameters inflatable toys are useful. Once inserted you can pump them up in order to increase the diameter. I recommend buying only inflatable toys with a solid core for easier insertion.

Detail of the Base with Suction Cup Feature

A less commonly found feature are cum tubes. At the tip of the toy there is a small opening onto which a tube is attached. At the end of this tube is a syringe filled with a cum like lube. If you pus the end of the syringe the cum is getting splashed into the colon simulating an ejaculation. As nifty and unique as this sensation might be, a cum tube makes cleaning and drying of the toy more difficult.

For added stimulation some anal toys feature a vibrating function. When you are using quite hard toys this sensation can also be achieved by pressing a magic wand against the toy’s base. Another added stimulation is e-stim. Please refer to my in-depth review of e-stim plugs here for more information.

Personal Recommendations

This is a highly subjective, certainly not complete list of brand and retailers where good anal toys can be found. From these I source my anal toys from because I trust them for their product safety and quality.

Caring for your Anal Toys

Cleaning & Safer Sex

From a Safer Sex point of view a toy should either be used only by one person or covered by a condom. While the first is unlikely if you are having an active “social” life, the latter is unpractical as soon as it comes to toys larger than an L size penis. So cleaning the toys the right way is essential.

To clean your toys after play fill the sink with water between 40°C and 50°C, add dish soap and let the toy soak for approx. 15 minutes. I recommend using dish soap without perfume or lotion because these additives are bad for rubber and some PVCs. If you have used very thick water based lube add salt to break down the lube. At the soaking scrub the toys with a soft brush and rinse the soap water off. As a first step of sanitizing fill the sink again with hot water, add vinegar-based cleaner (possibly organic because you want to shove the toy up your butt again) and let it soak for a quarter of an hour. The acid in the vinegar will also deal with most of the unpleasant smells. Rinse the toy off and let it dry. Finally spray the toy with a sanitizer. The agents in the sanitizer can make glossy surfaces dull so you might want to try it on the base where the blemished surface is inconspicuous.

With some materials other means of sterilization are also possible once the lube has been washed off.  Metal toys can be flamed or autoclaved; the latter is also possible with high quality silicone toys.

A common question is how to deal with discolored toys. Sadly this effect is irreversible and simply comes with ages of plastic toys. To avoid it, buy only black toys.

Storage

In order to have long lasting fun with your toys keep some simple storage rules in mind. Always clean the toys after using them. The lube or body fluids otherwise can foster chemical reactions which might harm the toy. The storage place should be dry and well ventilated especially when you are storing toys from different manufacturers or made out of different materials together. The toys must never touch! The different plasticizers used by different manufacturers and materials can cause the toys to dissolve when touching or the air being filled with them. If the process started (an area getting sticky or gooy) it is too late. Sadly the process is irreversible and sooner than later you have to throw away the toy. Especially soft toys should be stored upright (or in case of depth trainers loosely rolled up) otherwise they might get permanent creases.

Meo 24/7 Anal Stretching Ring

Vendor: Uberkinky

Meo 24/7 Anal Stretching Ring with the Matching Closing Plug

Meo 24/7 Anal Stretching Ring with the Matching Closing Plug

Construction

The Meo 24/7 Anal Stretching Ring is a rather special anal toy. The butt plug is made out of smooth aluminum with a matt black finish. It is head has the shape of a sphere through which a tube runs. On the bottom of the sphere it merges into a neck which features a smooth rounded base so the butt plug doesn’t accidently get sucked into the ass. The hole can be closed with a matching closing plug which is made out of hard rubber.

The Meo 24/7 Anal Stretching Ring comes in six different sizes. For the various dimensions of the different sizes take a look at the spreadsheet below.

Size Diameter of the Head Diameter of the Neck Length Diameter of the Tube
Extra Small 40mm 25mm 75mm 15mm
Small 50mm 35mm 80mm 25mm
Medium 60mm 45mm 85mm 30mm
Large 70mm 55mm 95mm 35mm
Extra Large 80mm 65mm 95mm 45mm
Extra Extra Large 95mm 80mm 115mm 55mm
Detail of the Hole in the 24/7 Meo Stretching Plug

Detail of the Hole in the 24/7 Meo Stretching Plug

Playing with it

For many subs surrendering control is a huge turn on. For that reason chastity devices are quite popular. This butt plug was designed to also control the rear side. Once you have found a comfortable size you can wear it for extended periods of time. Since the aluminum surface is not sticky and the firmness of the material makes it easy to move around so sphincter will shift the plug in a comfortable position. So the Meo 24/7 Anal Stretching Ring is more comfortable to wear than rubber or vinyl ones. Due to really being able to be worn for long periods of time, it is a great toy to train your ass to easily take a certain size of toys (or fists).

For finding the right size you should take some time to assess what the wearer’s ass can really handle. Being my out of metal this butt plug you can’t squeeze it in but only force it in (which I would not recommend). Also: The opening makes it rather dull which makes insertion even more difficult. In order for a smooth insertion of the Meo 24/7 Anal Stretching Ring stretch the ass in advance with butt plugs until one with an approx. 20% larger diameter goes in easily. If you have a dildo that fits through the butt plug’s hole put it there for a smoother opening up of the sphincter.

Detail of the Closed Plug

Detail of the Closed Plug

Once inserted give the ass some time to adjust to the new feeling and get tighter again. I recommend that you don’t stretch out the ass too much. Being made out of aluminum the plug has some considerably weight so if the sphincter it too relaxed there is a chance the plug will fall out of the ass. You can prevent that from happening with wearing a plug harness that keeps the butt plug in place. This is also recommend when you want to wear it while sleepng. Even though when you love you Meo 24/7 Anal Stretching Ring for your body it will remain a foreign object that he wants to get rid off so it is not uncommon that this butt plug gets pushed out when sleeping.

For really enjoying this plug 24/7 I recommend getting the matching closing plug in order to keep messy incidents from happening. If the pressure from the inside isn’t too strong it takes just a little push to put it in place. Pushing it in harder requires infinitesimal more fore when pulling it out so you might accidently pull the plug out. So be a bit careful. Of cause with the hole in the middle the messiness can be forced or created. One friend uses his small plug at the beginning of a fisting scene to pour lube into the fistees rectum. This butt plug is also great to piss into someone’s ass and still practicing safer sex.

Detail of the Hole Opening on the Top of the 24/7 Meo Anal Stretching Plug

Detail of the Hole Opening on the Top of the 24/7 Meo Anal Stretching Plug

Being made out of metal cleaning this toy is easy: You can put it in your dishwasher, throw it into boiling hot soapy water or even use chlorine or bleach (though I would recommend alcohol for safety reasons). Once properly cleaned you can use this butt plug on a different partner without any fear of transmitting a disease.

The pictures for this review show the large version with the matching closing plug which Uberkinky sent me as a review sample.

Conslusion: Comfortable plug for extended periods of wearing it
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Comfortable to wear over extended periods of time Due to the shape a bit difficult to insert 24/7 Anal Stretching Ring £44.99 – 89.99
Hole for inserting stuff into the rectum Closing Plug £5.99 – 9.99
Easy to clean

 

Fort Troff Aluminum Frat Paddle

The Fort Troff Aluminum Frat Paddle

The Fort Troff Aluminum Frat Paddle

Vendor: Ballistic Metal

Sometimes I wait so long to write a review that the shop where I have gotten the toy stopped selling it. Luckily in this case I found their original supplier which now makes the paddle a bit different. So please read this review careful where I point out the difference and check the pictures of the new store link if that is really the paddle you want to buy.

Construction

This paddle is shaped in the traditional fraternity paddle shape. It is made out of 0.7mm thick aircraft grade aluminum and weights 500g. The head is roughly 30cm by 8.5cm and features three rows of four respective five holes. The handle is 14.5cm by 3.5cm which at my Fort Troff paddle is covered with a rubber sheath for better grip but sadly lacks a hole for a loop. The Ballistic Metal version has three furrows engraved and a t-shape end for better grip. It also has a hole for a loop.

Detail of the Holes to Reduce Air Drag

Detail of the Holes to Reduce Air Drag

Playing with it

This is a nasty and delicate spanking implement! The holes drilled through the head reduce the air drag significantly so there is nothing to lessen the blow. Also, the material has no give so the entire kinetic force hits the sub’s body. So you quickly cross the threshold from stimulating tapping to rather stingy pain which can become excruciating with a lot of force. If you enter this area of pain please be careful. Being made out of metal it can break bones! So I recommend only use the most extreme force on well padded body like the thighs or the ass. And even there please be considerate.

Naturally with such a small handle the paddle is not very well balanced so be cautious when using this paddle not to tire out your wrist.

A nice material property of aluminum is the fact that is quickly takes on temperature. So when the area is nicely spanked red and warm dip the paddle into a bucket of ice water for a minute to let it cool down. The sensation of a cold paddle hitting a warm body area is quite unique.

Conclusion: Sever and indestructible spanking paddle.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Indestructible Unbalanced Ballistic Metal $79.90
Handy

 

Buyer’s Guide To Collars

ToyTorture.com has always been sort of a reflection of my own play style and my own desires manifested in toys. As authentic and honest reviews at that approach might create the flaw of it is that I am missing out on entire categories of toys. Sometimes I get asked about these categories over and over. Chastity is one of them, collars is another. Since a collar is the strongest bondage device out there yet I am not really into them I decided at the end of the Heavy Bondage Special to give a short overview of the collars out there. Especially in the paragraph about the symbolism of collars I am making a lot of generalizations. Please do not feel offended if your individual perception is different but celebrate it as the diversity that is the heart of our community. After that I briefly talk about the different materials collars can be made out of. The last and main part of this article are showing different kinds of collars. I sorted the collars into two categories: The first are decorative collars which primarily serve a symbolic purpose and through their designed are not primarily designed to be integrated into play. The latter category are functional collars which are made to be played with.

 

The Symbolism of Collars

Collars have a strong symbolic meaning in the BDSM community. They are a sign that a person belongs to someone. It is common for top who wants to establish a deeper and long-term orientated relationship with a bottom to put a collar around his neck to show him and the world that the sub belongs to him and is no longer free. This act is called “collaring”. Being collard usually implies a interdependent relationship: The top promises to give the sub something usually guidance, protection and play in exchange for the subs devotion, obedience, trust and loyalty. Due to the powerful contract which a collar symbolizes it is a very special piece of gear which is treated unlike any other. Usually only the top is allowed to put it on and take it off, most of the time also only the top may touch it. Touching the collar of a sub without asking the top for permission is considered highly offensive and even hostile by some people. In some high protocol situations it is even forbidden to talk to a collard sub because you are violating the property of another top. Also in a high protocol environment it is not uncommon for subs to walk around with a collar around his neck but with an open lock. This is a signal that he is open for a top to collar him. Closing the lock just for fun or laughs again is offensive because the sub probably hopes to get at least some of the affection listed above from the persons who closed the lock.

Materials

Collars can be made of nearly every fetish material out there. Most common are leather collars. Because the material is skin friendly and to a certain degree can absorb sweat it is best for long term wear. Rubber and neoprene lack this quality so wearing it for extended periods of time can lead to skin irritation, especially when wearing a collar out of stiff industrial rubber without deburred edges on bare skin. The last common material to mention here is metal. I have seen collars being made out of all different kinds of metal. However I would recommend only ones being made out of stainless steel or aluminum because even when exposed to sweat they do not rust. Other metals like cooper or steel oxidizes. Because a collar through constant movement experiences some physical stress corrosion prevention applied to steel like chrome or zinc wears off and the collar can rust again. Of cause noble metals like gold or platinum do not rust but you have to be quite the posh kinkster to afford such a collar. Metal collars come in form of chain, chainmail, rings or steel cable. When it comes to chain you can choose between welded and forged chain. Welded chain industrial made and thus cheaper and has a deburred weldseam. Depending on the quality the deburration is not as good as it should be so there is a potential for scratches when wearing a collar. So before wearing it check the seams of there are not rough edges.

More uncommon materials I have seen collars made out of are braided rope, jeans cloth, bike chain and tires.

Decorative Collars

Chain

Probably the most common form of the collars and thus comes in various styles (p.e. from Mr S or Regulation). All have in common that they are closed by a pad lock which is mostly worn up front. The most common pattern is the anchor chain which is made out of round links which either come in long or short versions and in various thicknesses. Even when using a small pad lock the link size is usually so large that this kind of collar can’t be worn discreetly under a shirt. Depending on the personal style the chain can be worn longer or tight around the neck. The advantage of this chain is that you can easily attach things to the collar using pad locks or carabiners. Depending on the pad lock quality you can grab and pull the sub on this collar.

Mr S Yellow Colors Aluminum Chainmail Collar

Mr S Yellow Colors Aluminum Chainmail Collar

Chainmail

Chainmail is a material where small metal rings are linked together to form a mesh-like surfaces. Collars out of this material are lighter and smaller and thus more discreet than chains. Of cause they are also more fragile and should not be pulled on. A nifty feature of the Mr S Aluminum ones is that they come in different colors so you can use them a bit as a hanky. If you can a bit more weighted feeling try out the stainless steel one.

Torquator Collar

Stylewise somewhere between a chain pattern and chainmail this collar was originally designed to restrain dogs. So this collar is popular by dog players especially of wild ones. When pulling onto this collar please be careful because serious injuries can be the result.

 

Cable Lock

Another discreet option is the cable lock collar from Recon. The collar itself is made out of coated steel but since there are no moving links the coating will probably will not rub off keeping the cable from rusting. The two endings are made out of stainless steel with colored rubber accents so again you can show your favorite kink. Unlike the chainmail collar this one is also closed with a lock which has a great psychologically effect. The lock and the collar are small and discreet enough to be worn under a dress shirt during work yet to frail to be pulled on.

Rope Collar

If a closed look is too much of a statement or you don’t like the idea of metal around your neck (after all a collar is all about the headspace), Mr S came up with a rope collar. It is made out of black braided rope and closed with a leather strap and a non-locking roller buckle. If you ask the guys at Mr S nicely the can probably make you this collar also in other colors

Tolan Collar

This is basically an ergonomically shaped ring of steel around the sub’s neck. It is nearly seamless and rather sleek so it can be worn under a business shirt without showing off or attracting attention. Since it is made out of stainless steel it will not rust.

Jougs

I am not sure if to put jougs into this category or the play category because wearing them for an extended period of time is definitely a punishment! Jougs or iron collars are made out of piece of steel, sometimes lined with leather for additional comfort. They are closed by padlocks, integrated locks or screws. Sometimes they come with d-rings welded onto them for added play possibilities. Sometimes following antic models they already have cuffs for the hands attached or even also feet welded with chains onto them. Another version are double rigid irons for the neck and the wrists for real stress bondage.

The Heaviest Parus Steel Collar Weighing 8.5kg

The Heaviest Parus Steel Collar Weighing 8.5kg

The most sever iron collars I know off are made by Parus in Munich. I already wrote a Christmas gift tip about them last year. They are really well made, almost seamless with the integrated lock and so heavy that with some models I would like to recommend consulting your doctor about disc problems before putting them on!

Regardless of what kind of iron collar you are getting when shopping for a joug please watch for deburred edges otherwise severe abrasions can happen!

Functional Collars

Bondage collar

Another quite common type of collars (p.e. from Mr S or Regulation). They basically are like a cuff style restraint just larger to fit around the neck. So very often you can get matching collars to your existing restraint set. Being made for play they come with d-rings to attach the sub to thing or restraint to the neck. Depending on the individual style some are locking which adds a sense of bondage. A pro tip: If you want to fetter a large boot, p.e. an MX boot, and your restraint set’s ankle cuffs are too small try out a collar. Most of the time they are large enough and will serve you well as a boot restraint.

Fetters Posture Collar

Fetters Posture Collar

Posture collar

A posture collar (look at Mr S or Regulation) is a more intense form of the bondage collar. It is quite wide and usually padded, sometimes it also has an anatomically formed chin rest. The effect of this design is that tilting of the head and nodding is getting extremely difficult locking the head in one place. Usually such a collar will also have d-rings and there are locking versions out there.

Chocking Collar

More a breathplay toy than just a simple collar please use this one with caution! This collar is basically a latigo leather belt that is closed by a rolling buckle tightly around the neck. On the other side of the belt is a small metal loop with a roller feature through which the belt exits. In that end a d-ring is added onto which a leash can be attached. If you pull on the leash the collar will tighten and chock the person wearing it.

Shock Collar

Shock collars were originally designed to train dogs. Onto a nylon collar a remote controllable box with two electrode pins is attached. Usually this kind of collars come with different intensity settings. I implore you to take advantage of these different settings and don’t start out too high! The shock boxes are designed to train even dogs which have thick fur and skin. On human skin they can leave burn marks or even damage the nerve system! There are fetish versions out there which are not so powerful but being a power bottom and pain pig myself I can see the temptations of “the real deal” especially when it comes to dog play. Yet still please be careful. Not sexual kink is worth losing your health permanently.

Fetters Wrist-to-Neck Restraints

Fetters Wrist-to-Neck Restraints

Wrist to neck Restraint

Not really just a collar but the leather version of an iron collar with attached restraints. It is a leather lined locking collar onto which two locking wrist restraints are riveted. These rivets allow for some movement around its axis but otherwise the head has to go where the hand wants to be. Especially with added bondage mitts this will leave the sub quite helpless.

Collars Accessories

Especially with the raise of pup and dog play in the last couple of years collar accessories have gained popularity. Most commonly dog tags are used either in their original purpose to mark the dog and write his name on it. But I have also seen a bouquet of different colored tags as hankies. Of cause a dog needs guidance and sometimes restraining so leather leashes become quite popular.

Bondage Hardware Special Part 3 – Connection Hardware

In the first two parts of this Bondage Hardware Special I presented to you means how to attach subs to themselves, each other or furniture. This article is about all the hardware you can use to connect different means. This hardware is especially useful when using Rope Substitutes I talked about last week because unlike rope in most cases you can’t simply tie a knot to connect two or more straps.

Two Versions of Uncertified Aluminum Carabiners

Two Versions of Uncertified Aluminum Carabiners

Before I talk about the different kinds of connection hardware I first need to talk about an important term when it comes to bondage equipment: The breaking load. It measures the amount of force an object can withstand without giving in. The certified breaking load has often two measurements: The static breaking load measures the amount of weight that can hang from an object without giving in, the dynamic breaking load gives the amount of moving (p.e. swinging) weight a piece of hardware can deal with without failing. In most cases the breaking load differs between an open and a closed gate and in which direction the force is applied. The breaking load is measured in Newton (N). One Newton is approx 100g on the earth’s surface. This is why most of the time the breaking load is measure in Kilo Newton (kN) which equates approx. 100kg.

The breaking load is important for liability reasons. If you use uncertified equipment and something happens it is possible that your insurance will not cover for you. Most of the time a breaking load is certified for a specific piece of connection hardware but it states explicitly on the packaging that it is not made for supporting humans. This is a legal grey zone: Yes, theoretically insurance companies can deny your claim if something happens because the hardware was not certified for human usage but I have never heard of such a case.

Carabiners

Carabiners are probably the most often used piece of connection hardware. They are a wire bend into roughly oval or triangular shape with a gate to open it. Usually a spring keeps the gate closed if you don’t apply pressure. They are made out of stainless steel, steel, aluminum, titanium, carbon fiber, composite and plastic.

Carabiners come in many different forms which sadly are not all made for human bondage.

  1. Clips
    An opend Pear Clip where you can see the Sharp Edges of the Gate

    An opend Pear Clip where you can see the Sharp Edges of the Gate

    In Germany this type of carabiner is also called “Hardware Store Carabiner” because you can get them in a hardware store quite cheaply. Despite being used in many playrooms I would not recommend them for BDSM. First of all there is the breaking load. In order to get a static breaking load larger than quarter of a ton which in my opinion is the minimum for fettering humans you have to buy pear clips with the size 90x9mm and up which have been manufactured under DIN 5299. Second their general design is in my opinion bad for gear play. The end of the gate is an arrow-shaped hook that locks into place between two noses. These elements are quite sharp. In a good case they just scratch your gear buy I have seen rubber gear tear from the sharp edges. Despite the disadvantages I will not condemn them. I am not a big fan of them yet due to economically reasons I use them p.e. for attaching chains to attachment points when I am sure that I won’t exceed the breaking load. When using them just keep the potential problems in mind.
    Besides the steel clips there are non-certified aluminum ones which are great for attaching things like weights to parachutes.

  2. Climbing carabiners
    Three Different Versions of Climbing Carabiners with the Bracking Load Printed on them

    Three Different Versions of Climbing Carabiners with the Bracking Load Printed on them

    You don’t have to worry about these problems when you buy climbing carabiners. They are made out of aluminum and thus are light weight. Being made to support human beings even when falling down their dynamic breaking load exceeds 4kN in most cases and thus is more than you will ever need. Because they are designed not to damage rope they have no rough edges so no need to worry about your gear. You can get climbing carabiners in many different designs which fit different needs. They are pricy though but definitely gear you will keep for the rest of your life. A bonus is that unlike the steel clips you can get them in many different colors to fit your personal style.

  3. Panic Snaps
    This kind of carabiners will open even when there is force pulling onto them.

    Left: Saddle Panic Snaps Right: A Sailing Panic Hook

    Left: Saddle Panic Snaps
    Right: A Sailing Panic Hook

    They are used for any situation where you would to have to life the sub in order to the d-ring out of the carabiner p.e. the wrist restraints used for above the head fixation on a St.-Andrews-Cross or any form of suspension bondage.
    Panic snaps come in two varieties: The ones for sailing and the ones for animals. The sailing ones have an eyelet at the bottom and on top a gate that is hold shut with a pin. If you want to release the gate pull out the pin. The ones for animals come in again on two varieties: One for dog leashes and one for holding saddles. The two varieties are hard to distinguish but are naturally quite different in breaking load! So I recommend the sailing panic snaps because they are made out of stainless steel (no problem at piss parties), they are lighter and smaller. If you take the smallest sailing panic snap you will probably need an additional shackle you put through the eyelet in order to make it larger.

  4. Stainless Steel Double Ended Carabiner

    Stainless Steel Double Ended Carabiner

    Double Ended Clips
    As the name of the carabiner already says it has a clip on each side connected by a metal bar. They have a very low breaking load. However I like them a lot especially for beginners. If you get well-made stainless steel ones they have no rough edges so your gear is not in danger. Further more in most situations the subs can open them by himself thus freeing him.

Left: Shackle with Breaking Load of 4.600kn Right: Shackle with a Breaking Load of 0.25 kN

Left: Shackle with Breaking Load of 4.600kn
Right: Shackle with a Breaking Load of 0.25 kN

Shackles

Another piece of nautical hardware very well fitted for bondage. Shackles are made out of stainless steel wires which are bend either in ¾ of a circle or two parallel straights with a half circle at the end. On the other end there is a pin which is screwed into a threat closing the shackle. Theoretically a shackle can do the same things as a carabiner but through having to twist in order to close it I find it more practical when I want to connect two things more permanently or when an eyelet is too small.

Screw Links

An even more permanent connection are screw links. They are made out of metal wires and come in oval or triangular shapes. On one side is a sheath with a thread on one end. If you unscrew the sheath it will open a recess. Originally designed to connect two ends of a chain it can also be used to create additionally attachment points, extend a chain or enlarge a too small eyelet.

Pad Locks

While theoretically they are able to connect a D-ring to a chain p.e. I would not recommend using pad locks are connection hardware. In most cases the lock will turn that the force pulls on the body and the shackle. Pad locks with not designed to have physical stress in this position so it is likely that the mechanic inside will jam and you will need a bolt cutter to open the lock!

If you buy locks in order to close lockable bondage gear make sure to buy keyed alike locks! Nothing is more stressful when you need to urgently open a lock and can’t find the key. You can get keyed alike locks at every hardware or lock store. When I suggested getting keyed alike locks to some reader questions people were concerned if that would disclose them as perverts. I can assure you this won’t be the case. Asking for keyed alike locks is quite common for example for equipment lockers in gyms.

A Paw Rigging Plate

A Paw Rigging Plate

Rigging Plates & Stainless Steel Rings

Rigging plates is another piece of professional climbing equipment used to organize and attach different ropes together. They are plates made out of aluminum and sometimes out of stainless steel with holes for ropes. The most common form is the paw with a big hole and three to six smaller ones on top. But tor really elaborate designes you can get rigging plates with more than 20 holes. I use them for organizing my carabiners for suspension bondage so I just need to pull up the plate. A more profane usage scenario is attaching carabiners for a hogtie.

There are large stainless steel rings sometimes with a cross or a triscele in the middle out there called rope rings which fulfill the same purpose though with less organization. If you just want to create a hogtie or don’t want to suspend someone from the ring a stainless steel cockring also does the trick.

Zip Ties

An easy and disposable item for connecting bondage equipment are zip ties. They are plastic bands with a lock on one end and texture on the other end. Pull the textured end through the lock and the connection can’t be opened again. If you get professional ones you can get a breaking load up to 80kg per zip tie. So it only takes three or four to create a strong connection, but please bear in mind that the combined strength is lower than the individual strength added up.

There are versions out there that can be opened up and reused. They are not strong enough for bondage purposes. The same applies to Velcro cable ties!

A Hoist for one or two Ropes

A Hoist for one or two Ropes

Hoists

Not really connection hardware but since I don’t know where to put it else and I store mine along with my carabiners I will shortly talk about hoists here. Hoists are barrels mounted into a case with an eyelet on top. They are certified for being able to bear different amounts of maximum weight. Hoists are useful for suspension bondage: You can create the bondage while the sub lies securely on the floor and later pull him up. There are different types of hoists with up to six barrels. I made the experience than more than three barrels are not practical because the rope will tangle.

So much about gear and hardware to tie people up. Next week will be all about accessories that can be useful to make a bondage scene successful and as little messy as possible.

Bondage Hardware Special Part 2 – Rope Substitutes

This is the second part of the Bondage Hardware Special. While in the first part I talked about Rope in this text will be about all the different means you can use to fetter someone if you don’t want to deal with rope.

Tension Belts

Originally these belts were designed to secure cargo but are as equally good for securing human beings. They consist of a nylon strap which is attached to a lock through which you pull the strap in order to shorten and tighten it. Sometimes at the part of the belt where the lock is attached there is a loop through which you can attach a carabineer. You can get tension belts for fairly little money however I do not recommend getting the cheapest ones. Most of the time with cheap ones the end of the nylon strap is not welded so it starts to fray. Also more expensive ones are certified for a specific weight. When fettering a sub or using for suspension bondage I would not recommend for going anything lower than 200kg certified. While you can use tension belts on bare skin I would not recommend it. The edges of the nylon straps are sharp and the strap itself can create rope burn if the sub moves too quickly too long under them.

Bungee Cords

Another cargo securing device that can be used for bondage. They are made out of two hooks connected by a flexible cord covered in nylon fabric. Because they were designed not to secure heavy cargo you will need several bungee cords to achieve the same sense of bondage as you would with a single tension belt. However in this property lies the beauty of bungee cords. Even one single cord with produce down force that can be easily overpowered. But if you attached several ones the sub can struggle against the in his mind weak cords, maybe lift himself a bit but will ultimately fail. Theoretically you can use bungee cords for suspension bondage but I would not advise it. It is too hard to figure out how many you need in order to securely hang someone from the ceiling. Another thing to keep in mind is that the flexible cord over time will stretch and age so you have to check and replace the cords on a regular basis.

A Pair of Police Velcro Restraints

A Pair of Police Velcro Restraints

Velcro Straps

When I talk about Velcro straps I do not mean the cable binders you can buy for next to nothing at the office store but industrial grade Velcro straps that are at least 3cm wide; narrower ones cut too easily into the body. Velcro is again a great mindfuck material: It is regarded as easily to open but once you attach a long enough part of the hard side to the soft side it is impossible for a bound person to break free. You can quickly and easy secure a person quite well with Velcro straps especially when you use Velcro restraints made for the authorities. They come with a loop which makes tightening the straps easy. Doing so will require some practice because the two sides of the straps will quickly attach to each other leaving you with a twine you need to untangle first before.

Please only put the soft side onto the body (if you don’t want that extra sensation agonizing) because the hard side can create painful abrasions. Even the wider ones I would not advise to use for suspension.

The Mr S Hobble Belt

The Mr S Hobble Belt

Belts

The probably most widely available secure mean of bondage in the household. It can be made out of a variety of materials so in order to test if it is made for bondage check if the edges are hard and can harm the skin. Than close the belt, hang it onto a secure anchor point and hand yourself onto it. It is doesn’t break and the claps doesn’t deform, you can use it for bondage. Otherwise you need a new belt. There are belts out there which holes all around the belt which is handy. Other belts come with added bondage features like this one from Mister B that turns into four restraints, this one from Mr S with four D-rings or their Hobble Belt which is a restraint.

Chains

Chains come in a number of varieties. The only ones I would recommend for bondage are twisted link and rolo, either in torus or in circle, patterns. Both patterns are smooth enough to be used on bare skin and offer enough space in the links to attach rope, carabineers or additional chains. Today most chains are welded instead of forged so there is a weldseam on every link. Sometimes these seams can be have sharp edges so before you use chain on bare skin check the links for such spots.

A Runner Holding a Chain in Place

A Runner Holding a Chain in Place

Runner

Originally made for climbing these are nylon straps which are very securely sowed at the ends to create a loop. You can’t adjust the length of them. I mostly use them to create anchor points using a cow hitch. They are also good for suspension bondage if you want a similar length at all attachments points.

Shoe Laces

Another item that can be found in any household but I would only recommend softer and wider shoe laces like fat laces for bondage. Any other can cut circulation and are thus dangerous. Also: Most shoe laces are not designed to withstand too much force so I would not recommend using them for any bondage where much resistance is anticipated but they are great for genital bondage.

Tape & Saran Wrap

When you watch movies tape seems to be the bondage material of choice for thugs these days. And to a certain extend you can use tape for bondage however I would not advise it. First of all getting the tape of when there is body hair under it can be quite painful. It also takes some practice to wrap it right: Too tight and it will cut circulation, too loose and you can easily get out. Also, most glues used on tape, like the iconic duct tape, is water-soluble. So it the sub sweats too much or if you attempt to do a tape gag which is often seen in movies you are at a loss.

These problems do not occur with saran wrap. However you need several layers to make it strong enough to withstand some struggle. If you want to use these means for bondage I would recommend doing a saran wrap base layer and add tape to that. When choosing the saran wrap be careful what you buy. There is wrap that shrinks which requires special surveillance of the sub when you use it, especially for mummification!

In the next part of this series called “Connection Hardware” I will talk about the nifty little things which connect different bondage means without knots.

Christmas Gift Tip II – Steel Bondage

With 8.5kg their heaviest Collar with added Bondage Points closed with a padlock

With 8.5kg their heaviest Collar with added Bondage Points closed with a padlock

One of the four Christmas gift tips every year is dedicated to the extremes of BDSM: Oversized ass toys, extreme pain or almost inhuman bondage. This year the latter is the case with recommending the Parus steel bondage toys and especially the Plug Steel Bondage system.

Parus Extra Heavy Steel Wrist & Ankle Restraints

Parus Extra Heavy Steel Wrist & Ankle Restraints

Parus is quite small store in Munich that has a well-earned reputation of making very high quality leather gear. They only use European hide which has been tanned using highest standard to keep you from getting allergies. I own a harness from them which I love and I soon hope to be getting restraints and a hood from them. But leather isn’t their only field of expertise. They are not quite as famous for it as their leather works but they excel at making steel bondage.

Overview of the Plug System with Leather Covered Restraints and Connection Chains

Overview of the Plug System with Leather Covered Restraints and Connection Chains

Even though they also sell relatively light steel bondage you can get in most places most of their gear is on the heavier side really making you fell the weight of the restraints. Some of my really bondage obsessed friends own steel restraints from Parus and they say that almost nothing makes them feel more bound DOWN than the thick and heavy steel from Parus. Another nice feature it the integrated barrel lock so that you don’t have to deal with padlocks dangling around. Into locking posts of the barrel lock you can put metal plates onto which you can mount chains or use as bondage points. If you can deal with a heavy duty padlock they offer especially heavy collars with welded on bondage points.

The Stainless Steel Bondage Belt with welded Bondage Points

The Stainless Steel Bondage Belt with welded Bondage Points

The restraints are made is painstakingly accurate so there are no sharp burrs, all edges are round that despite the weight they can be worn for a long period of time without causing unintended bruises. The majority of the toys are made out of stainless steel so allergies are not an issue. If you are still concerned they offer some pieces wrapped in their high quality leather.
To be honest the restraints don’t come cheap starting at 349€ for a belt and ending at 650€ with leather covered wrist cuffs. But if you take into consideration the amount of metal and time it takes to create this master pieces and the feeling of being bound and dragged down by metal (a full restraint set from collar to ankles weights over 20kg and it isn’t the heaviest set…) they are worth the money!

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