ToyTortures Top 10 Toys: Mr S Ultra Blindfold

Blindfolds are one of the most essential pieces of bondage gear. Taking away the ability t see they not only render the sub helpless even without other restraints but by sharpening other senses make all sensations more intense and introduces the element of surprise into the scene. So robbing the sub off his sight is a common element in scenes. But finding a good blindfold is hard: Most of the thickly padded ones put pressure on the eyes making them uncomfortable to wear over extended periods of time; the more comfortable tend to let light or even glimpses of the surrounding through. So when people ask me which blindfold to buy, there is only one answer…

… The Mr S Leather Ultra Blindfold. Its unique construction with a piping of doubled leather and padding below the eyes prevents any pressure onto the eye and blocks out all light. Two straps with a double d-ring for adjustment and an elastic strap for fine adjustment keep the blindfold comfortably secured.  The Ultra Blindfold is so good, it has become my sleeping mask during flights. The padding below the eyes create little pockets between them and the blindfold’s front. This is due to not spoiling the aesthetics of the front with a seam. But it also has an unintended practical aspect: The pockets catch tears. So this blindfold quickly became a very personal item and piece of memorabilia. It was with me during my first single tailing, the first time getting flogged by two tops, my first sensation play where I laughed tears at the end… So when I lost my original blindfold after getting singletailed on a Friday at LAB (Kids, do not try to recreate that scene!) I was heartbroken. Naturally I replaced the blindfold instantly and treasure it ever since.

The Mr S Ultra Blindfold costs $58.95 and you can learn all about it in my in-depth review.

Episode 1: Mr S Bishop Head Harness

Episode 2: ErosTek ET232

Episode 3: E-Stim System Electrodes

Episode 4: DeTails Flogger Set

Episode 5: Fetters Handlock

Episode 6: Sheets of San Francisco

Episode 7: Oxballs Ball Stretcher

Episode 8: Doxy Die Cast

Episode 10: HML Fetish Bondage Harness

Mr S Shoulder to Wrist Restraints

Vendor: Mr S

The Mr S Shoulder to Wrist Restraints

Construction

The first element of this three-part bondage toy is a 32mm wide latigo leather strap which runs over the neck and around the shoulders. It is closed by a roller buckle and can be locked through a post. There is also a D-ring next to the roller buckle. The strap’s length can be adjusted between 110cm to 140cm which is long enough for beefy subs; the buckle’s pin has to be in the third hole for the last hole to fit over the locking post. For fettering an extremly beefy body builder meat machine Mr S can certainly make a custom strap which is longer but neither my testees nor me ever found the strap too short respectively too long for skinny subs.

On this strap runs a 380mm long and 53mm wide latigo leather strap. Between 45mm to 225mm measured from the bottom 12 holes are punched into it. For an even tighter bondage experience I had 6 holes added so the restraint can be pulled up even higher.

Detail of the Roller Buckle, Locking Post and D-ring of the Shoulder Strap

These holes are used to attach the 53mm wide latigo leather back strap using a roller buckle with a locking pin. Below the roller buckle there are two wrist restraints riveted onto the strap. They are closed with locking roller buckles.

Playing with the Shoulder to Wrist Restraints

The possible usage scenario is determined by how much the shoulder and the back strap are tightened. If both straps are not too strict this restraint can be used for self-bondage. It takes some time and practice to get the wrists fettered and undone again. But the latter struggle is part of the self-bondage experience. If you should fail to undo them there is enough slack to cut the back strap with a safety scissor in a case of emergency. If both straps are tightened in a medium intensity (elbow forms a right angle) the restraints can be worn comfortably and safely for an extensive period of time. This makes the Shoulder to Wrist Restraints the ideal piece of bondage gear for social settings like a bar night. The sub is bound into a presentable position yet he is able to move around to follow his top while the bondage is comfortable enough to be kept on for an entire nights.  In the tightest configuration on tall guys it becomes impossible to open the wrist restraints even when they are not locked.

Detail of the Wrist Restraints

Almost regardless of the tightness the Shoulder to Wrist Restraints create an interesting bondage experience. Especially in the looser configurations the bondage feeling of the wrist restraints quickly fade away. So when the sub wants to act naturally because he forgot about the restraints he will quickly be reined back. A big advantage of the Shoulder to Wrist Restraints is the effective bondage in combination with great accessibility: With the arms bound behind the back nipples and the junk can easily be played with and his torso is exposed for (gut) punching; once bend forward for a spanking the ass cheeks are exposed and the sub can’t raise himself again so he is at the top’s mercy.

Detail of the Back Strap attached to the Runner

To intensify the bondage experience I recommend attaching a shackle to the strap of the lower wrist restraint between the two rivets. Onto this new anchor point ankle restraints can be added – either with chains to create a prison setup to limit the sub’s ability to run or just with carabiners to keep him kneeling. For a more painful sensation connect the wrist restraints to a ball stretcher with a D-ring or – even more evil – a parachute with spikes. If pain is induced and he tries to work it out with whatever limited movements he has in his arms he will tug on his balls.

 Conclusion: Versatile restraint – from comfortable to stress sbondage.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Very well made Mr S $169.95
Versatile usage scenarios
Unique Bondage experience
Lockable

Carbon Fiber Pain Stick

Vendor: Mr S

The Mr S Carbon Fiber Pain Stick

Construction

The Carbon Fiber Pain Stick’s basis is a 39cm long carbon rod with a diameter of 2.7mm. Unlike most other carbon fiber rods it is a solid one with a deburred tip. The former minimizes the risk of breaking or splintering, the latter prevents it from causing involuntary cuts. The lower 10.5cm of the rod is covered in isolating rubber with vinyl tips on both sides. Through the bottom tip runs one a nylon string loop.

Detail of the Beburred Tip

Playing with the Carbon Fiber Pain Stick

Carbon is a mean material for an impact toy: Lightweight, stiff, yet flexible. So the blows delivered by it are very stingy making the Pain Stick a delightfully devilish toy which needs to be handled delicately. Just a light tapping on the same spot can cause irritating pain, several blows will leave a welt. Because of that this is a great toy for mindfuck-scenes: The top doesn’t induce much force yet the sensation felt can be intense. The small size makes it an ideal for lightweight toy bags when going out to a bar or for precise targeting. But always keep in mind that this toys isn’t made for warming up the skin so adjust the ramping of the scene accordingly.

Another method of using the Pain Stick is pulling the tip back and flick it. This will induce extremely stingy pain which intensity depends on how far you pull it back and if only the tip or the entire rods hits the sub’s body. When you pull back the rod far enough blows can even be felt through thick leather! On bare skin bruises and welts are likely to occur. Since a lot of force is transmitted this way the target areas should be chosen carefully: On thin skinned body areas like the glans the skin will most likely break, delicate body areas like the balls serious bruises or injuries of the spermatic cord can lead to a visit of the ER.

Detail of the Rubber Covered Grip Section and the Loop

Carbon is a conducting material. So if the bite of the stick itself isn’t agonizing enough, it can be connected to an e-stim power box using a pole connection clamp. Since the e-stim sensation should be felt at the impact point, I recommend using a mass-rich counter pole. When playing on the ass or using the Pain Stick for CBT a metal anal electrode is the best option but a conductive rubber loop around the balls or base of the dick also works. For hitting the nipples a pad electrode attached next to the nipple is the safest option.

Since using this toy extensively on a sub can lead to contamination through sweat, interstitial fluid and blood, proper disinfection is important. Luckily carbon is a very low maintenance material in that regards. Simply wash off the residue with warm soap water, let it dry and spray a sanitizer on it. As robust and flexible carbon is, it sadly can break or splinter. So after ever scene, inspect the rod if it is still perfectly smooth. If not, replace it with a new one. The injuries cause by breaking or splintered carbon fiber are very serious and hard to treat.

Conclusion:  Small delightfully devilish toy with huge pain potential.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Intense sensation without much force Takes lot of practice to really master Mr S $22.95
Small and light weight
Easy to sanitize

Electro Gloves

Vendor: Regulation or Mr S

The Electro Gloves

Construction

The Electro Gloves are made out of a stretchy synthetic material with a conductive fiber woven into it. On top of the wrist is a button for the snap connector making each glove a monopole. The toy comes with a snap-to-2-mm-female connector but this can be easily exchanged for a snap-to-4mm-banana-plug connector depending on which system you are using.

Size wise the glove is somewhere between a size S and M but stretches enough to accommodate even a small XL. The fingers are long so you have to pull them back a bit when you have small hands.

Playing with the Electro Gloves

The Electro Gloves can be used in two different ways: Either with both gloves at the same time or with one glove working as the other pole for a monopolar toy. Regardless if you use one or both gloves they are a delicate toy to play with. Since besides the power output the sensation intensity of this toy is determined by the contact area gently lifting the hand and thus reducing contact area can dramatically increase the sensation. It is a very fun thing to play with but needs practice. It is an especially great mind fuck once the sub becomes aware that lifting the hands (but not losing touch completely!) increases the sensation which will make him afraid of the top’s every movement.

Detail of the Snap Connector, in this picture for 4mm Banana Plug

The sensations these gloves create depend greatly on the skin’s conductivity which is influenced by many factors like sweat for example. I would not recommend using conductive lube to increase conductivity with these gloves. The cloth will take up most of the lube making it useless. Since these gloves require gentle hand wash with a mild detergent and not too hot water getting the lube out of them is more stress than theoretic benefit of better conductivity.

When both gloves are used at the same time they are great for sensation play. More or less lightly touch the sub’s skin and let the gloves run over his body. Especially massages or masturbation are a great sensual experience with these gloves on. However it really takes focus from the active part so that both gloves don’t touch. Otherwise the power box will be short circuited.

How to safely wear the Electro Glove as a Top: Wrap the Latex Glove around the Cuff to prevent any accidental Body Contact

How to best utilize a single glove depends on the other electrode you are using. With a mass rich electrode like a big anal plug the Electro Gloves are great for edging. On the more agonizing side of the sensation spectrum spanking the sub with the glove on adds a shock to the impact sensation. Through the movement you have to take care not to disconnect the gloves from the leads when spanking. A single glove also works really well with skin electrodes like the Whisker or a Pin Wheel. If you follow the electrode closely with just the tip of a finger it might be acceptable to use the electrode above the waist.

In any other case as with every e-stim electrode: Stay below the waist for safety reasons! Especially when you use both gloves together it is imperative that you cover your hand and wrist with a non-conductive glove like disposable latex ones. The Electro Gloves cloth must never touch your skin otherwise there is a chance the currency will flow through your body instead of the subs and thus through your heart.

Conclusion:  Versatile e-stim toy which takes time to master and attention when using.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Many possible usage scenarios Takes lot of practice to really master Regulation £70
Mr S $84.95
Needs much attention to handle correctly
Great for mind fuck

Anal Toys 101

Finding the right anal toy and keeping it in good shape so it lasts for a long time can be a bit of a challenge. In this 101 I talk about what to consider when buying an anal toy and how to care for it properly.

Buyer’s Guide to Anal toys

There are many aspects to consider when choosing an anal toy. Especially when you are buying your first one and have not developed personal preferences yet, giving each aspect some thought is a good idea because a good anal toy is quite an investment. But if chosen wisely will bring you fun for years to come.

Material

Deciding out of which material your new anal toy is going to be made is the first step when choosing it because the material properties impact many relevant aspects of anal play.

Material composition

This is the most important aspect of choosing a toy. In the old days before EU regulations and custom testing imported goods, toys which I would not have recommended to put up your butt were widely available!

The inside of your colon is basically one big mucosal that will happily absorb whatever the lube (especially water-based lube) washes out of the toy’s material. Thus I recommend only purchasing toys which are manufactured in the EU or USA where dangerous plasticizers like phthalates or lead as a catalytic agent for silicone are forbidden. Just to be safe look for the label “Platinum Silicone” or “Phthalates Free” when choosing a toy. At the end of Buyer’s Guide there is a list of manufacturers I personally source from if you want a recommendation.

Lube

Not every lube can be used with every material. Some lubes will actually cause to disintegrate your toy. Thus depending on your lube preferences you have to choose the toy material.

The following chart shows which lube can generally speaking be safely used with which material. Of cause individual material composition can lead to unexpected effects. If you want to err on the side of safety only use water-based lube.

Water-base Lube Silicone-Base Lube Hybrid Lube Oil/Fat-Base Lube
Silicone X X
PVC/ Vinyl
Rubber X
TPR (✔) (✔)
Other hard Plastic
Wood
Glass
Metal

The Square Peg Charlie Horse Wiggly in Supersoft Bronze from Regulation

Firmness & Surface Smoothness

While glass, metal and wood are always hard, the plastic ones come in different degrees of firmness. With the latter group the thickness is also influenced by the thickness. The thicker a toy the harder it will feel.

Which degree of firmness is good is depends on the usage situation. For training your ass a softer toy is better because it adjusts a bit to the sphincter. For wearing a toy for an extended period of time a harder material is better because the sphincter will adjust to the form of the toy which is more comfortable in the long run. Also with hard surfaces the likelihood of skin folds and thus a pinching sensation decreases.

The firmness also impacts the structural integrity. The firmer the toy the easier it will stand up by itself. This is especially important then you want to ride or sit on a toy. If it is too soft, it will collapse.

Furthermore the surface structure is important. The smoother the surface the easier the toy glides in and the easier it will be to clean.

Pervertables

A quick word on pervertables: There are wooden, metal and glass objects which are not made for anal play but are being used for it, most prominently baseball bats or batons. Before inserting them into your rectum make sure they are deburred and 100% smooth! Especially which with wood it is imperative that is has a sanded and treated surface! Getting a splinter into your colon is always a reason to rush to the ER! As for glass objects, especially vases and bottles: Keep them out of your ass! The glass used to anal toys is a special type of glass that almost never breaks and glass anal toys are always solid. The injuries caused by shards of broken glass inside your rectum can be lethal!

The Bolder Stoll Doll from Regulation

Toy Form Factor

There are two major form factors: Dildos, which are compared to their thickness relatively long shafts with a tapered ending for easier insertion, and plugs, which are shorter and between the maximum diameter and the base taper again so they can stay inside the butt.

Dildos

Dildos are probably the oldest sex toys humans invented. Stone penises as old as 28.000 years have been excavated. They induce a friction sensation on the nerve endings inside the sphincter while sliding in and out and at best hit the prostate. Depending on the glans’ shape there can be some stretching sensation.

Dildos come in two varieties. The first one are realistic dildos. They mimic the penis shape of humans, animal or anthropomorphic beings. This means the shaft is textured with veins which intensify the friction and thus the sensation. At the bottom end most of the them feature a base shaped like balls. The second variety are shape dildos. They are bullet or torpedo shaped and lack natural texturing.

The Square Peg Depth Probe from Regulation

Somewhere between dildos and plugs are shape dildos which consist of a series of bulges. The most extreme form of this form are anal beads. They are a series of balls connected by a string or a tubes which are inserted into the ass and then slowly pulled out. Of cause these toys aim to create a stretching sensation rather than a friction one.

A special form of dildos are so call depth trainers, also commonly called colon snakes. They are long (at least 35cm long), made out of flexible materials and don’t have much texture; a depth indication scale at most. They are designed to seduce the second sphincter to gradually open up to prepare for deep fisting.  Since this sphincter is not used to physical stimulation and unlike the anus can’t be relaxed purposefully, training it takes some time. So don’t rush it!

The Oxballs Pig Hole Deep from Mr S

Plugs

The shape of a butt plugs is best compared to the bottom half of a sand clock. From the tip they gradually increase in diameter and then – depending on the plug – either taper again or go directly into a short neck which is attached to a base. Through the gradually increasing diameter the main sensation of plugs is a stretching one.  So plugs are good to slowly accustom to and train the sphincter to a certain diameter.

A special form of plugs are hollow or tunnel plugs. Their outside form is like a butt plug but instead of being solid they have hole in the middle. Through the opening in the middle the tip is dull. So even if you can take the maximum diameter of the plug you might not be able to take it or only after a long pre-stretching. The hole is useful for many things. Through it lube or other liquids can be poured or the closing function of the sphincter can temporarily be taken away. The plug also protects the nerve endings in the sphincter from friction. Thus hollow plugs are especially useful in combination with depth trainers. Such plugs shield the anus from the friction sensation allowing the bottom to focus on what is happening at his second sphincter. When the tunnel plug is made out of a stretchy material (and is large enough) it can be used to fist through it making a formally too small interesting again or put it over a standard butt plug to increase its size.

With the increasing popularity of pet play there is a growing market of tail plugs. Instead of a base an appendix mimicking the look of an animal’s tail (most common are dog and pig tails) is attached to the plug’s body.  When choosing a tail keep two things in mind: Don’t buy a too small plug section because if it slides in too easily it will also slide out easily causing you to lose the tail when walking or wagging. Furthermore the mass ration between the plug and the tail should not be too much off. The center of gravity should be at the plug otherwise there is also the danger of the tail popping out easily. Tails are also popular with switchers not into pet play. When fucking somebody the tail will develop an momentum which is transferred to the plug section which than stimulates the prostate.

Finding the Right Size & Form

The following factors determined first if you will be able to take the anal toy and second how much you will enjoy it.

The Domestic Partner Crack Attack from Regulation

Maximum Diameter

Usually 3cm to 4cm is a good size to start out anal play. As you progress to bigger toys I recommend going up in steps of 1cm to 1.5cm increased maximum diameter. This is enough of a challenge yet you get the satisfaction of conquering the toy after a couple of days to weeks depending on how thoroughly you train. I know that this is costly by trying to get a toy in for weeks and always failing is very frustrating!

Slope

The slope of a toy defines how quickly the diameter from the tip on increases.

Even though the sphincter at the anus can somewhat voluntarily be relaxed it still is a muscle humans cannot control completely. It needs to be seduced to open up and in order to establish a certain training level actually carefully (!) stretched like every other muscle. Thus generally speaking steeper slopes are better because they allow the sphincter to open up more gradually. Especially when you are a novice stay away from toys with large dull tips because it will just press against the sphincter and it won’t open up. But even with a well-trained ass you will encounter toys that diameter wise are not really a challenge yet you won’t be able to take due to a weird slope. Sadly there now way to know before the purchase with which toys this is going to be the case so please be prepared for one or two useless purchases.

At butt plugs there are two slopes to look it: First the one before the maximum diameter which I just talked about. The second one is the one behind it. It defines how easily the toy comes out again. When you want to train your sphincter a steep slope is preferable. Once inside you can slowly fuck yourself with the plug, enjoying the stretching sensation. If you want to wear the plug for an extended period of time a duller to non-existing slope is preferable because it makes involuntarily popping out more difficult. However please keep in mind: When keeping a plug in, the “warm-up” effect of pushing it in slowly fades so seducing your sphincter to open up and release the plug becomes increasingly more difficult when keeping it in for long.

The Square Peg Happy Hour from Mr S

Position of Widest Diameter

Especially when you progress in training the position of the widest diameter becomes an important aspect to keep in mind. If you stick with a steep slope and increase the diameter the location of the maximum diameter moves further away from the tip so you have to insert more length for the maximum stretch. Since the colon is a quite small body cavern you might not reach the neck or even the maximum diameter. From a psychological point of view this is bad when training because inserting a toy completely fills you with a sense of accomplishment and giving you an opportunity to rest. This is usually a boost of eagerness to train further. Constantly failing on a plug is quite demotivating.

Texture

The texture describes the surface of a toy beyond the material properties (see: Firmness & Surface Smoothness). Since texture increases the friction of a toy it makes the insertion more difficult. So a textured toy with a diameter you usually take easily might not fit afterall.

In the section about natural dildos I have already briefly talked about natural texturing. They comprise of veins, the molded glans and foreskin and when we look at anthropomorphic toys scales, etc.

Detail of the Convex Shape and the Heavily Textured Surface of Apollo the Chimera

On shape dildos and plugs these three texture patters can be found (in ascending order of intensity): Groves, bumps and ridges. Which form delivers the best sensation is very individual. But a good rule of thumb is: the higher the texture is risen the stronger the stimulation. This of cause means that these toys are meant for play when the hole is already relaxed and well played with so it is not about the stretching (sensation) but about teasing the nerves in the sphincter. Please keep in mind that this form of play can wear out an ass quickly so be prepared for the scene to end rather sooner than later.

Extra Features

Sometimes toys come with extra features for a more intense or varied play. The most commonly found extra are sucktion cups. They enable you to temporarily securely attach the toy to a smooth surface (tiles are best for it) using vacuum. This is nifty feature when you really want to ride at toy so it doesn’t slip away.

For training the sphincter or creating a feeling of being stuffed without being able to take large diameters inflatable toys are useful. Once inserted you can pump them up in order to increase the diameter. I recommend buying only inflatable toys with a solid core for easier insertion.

Detail of the Base with Suction Cup Feature

A less commonly found feature are cum tubes. At the tip of the toy there is a small opening onto which a tube is attached. At the end of this tube is a syringe filled with a cum like lube. If you pus the end of the syringe the cum is getting splashed into the colon simulating an ejaculation. As nifty and unique as this sensation might be, a cum tube makes cleaning and drying of the toy more difficult.

For added stimulation some anal toys feature a vibrating function. When you are using quite hard toys this sensation can also be achieved by pressing a magic wand against the toy’s base. Another added stimulation is e-stim. Please refer to my in-depth review of e-stim plugs here for more information.

Personal Recommendations

This is a highly subjective, certainly not complete list of brand and retailers where good anal toys can be found. From these I source my anal toys from because I trust them for their product safety and quality.

Caring for your Anal Toys

Cleaning & Safer Sex

From a Safer Sex point of view a toy should either be used only by one person or covered by a condom. While the first is unlikely if you are having an active “social” life, the latter is unpractical as soon as it comes to toys larger than an L size penis. So cleaning the toys the right way is essential.

To clean your toys after play fill the sink with water between 40°C and 50°C, add dish soap and let the toy soak for approx. 15 minutes. I recommend using dish soap without perfume or lotion because these additives are bad for rubber and some PVCs. If you have used very thick water based lube add salt to break down the lube. At the soaking scrub the toys with a soft brush and rinse the soap water off. As a first step of sanitizing fill the sink again with hot water, add vinegar-based cleaner (possibly organic because you want to shove the toy up your butt again) and let it soak for a quarter of an hour. The acid in the vinegar will also deal with most of the unpleasant smells. Rinse the toy off and let it dry. Finally spray the toy with a sanitizer. The agents in the sanitizer can make glossy surfaces dull so you might want to try it on the base where the blemished surface is inconspicuous.

With some materials other means of sterilization are also possible once the lube has been washed off.  Metal toys can be flamed or autoclaved; the latter is also possible with high quality silicone toys.

A common question is how to deal with discolored toys. Sadly this effect is irreversible and simply comes with ages of plastic toys. To avoid it, buy only black toys.

Storage

In order to have long lasting fun with your toys keep some simple storage rules in mind. Always clean the toys after using them. The lube or body fluids otherwise can foster chemical reactions which might harm the toy. The storage place should be dry and well ventilated especially when you are storing toys from different manufacturers or made out of different materials together. The toys must never touch! The different plasticizers used by different manufacturers and materials can cause the toys to dissolve when touching or the air being filled with them. If the process started (an area getting sticky or gooy) it is too late. Sadly the process is irreversible and sooner than later you have to throw away the toy. Especially soft toys should be stored upright (or in case of depth trainers loosely rolled up) otherwise they might get permanent creases.

Mr S Fetters Locking Bondage Collar

Vendor: Mr S

The Mr S Fetters Locking Collar

The Mr S Fetters Locking Collar

Construction

This collar is the matching one to the restraints I reviewed a couple of weeks ago. The basis of the collar is a sturdy bridle leather body. Onto the body a folded, 6.7cm wide piece of soft garment leather is sowed so the collar can be worn for extended periods of time without feeling uncomfortable. On the Fetters version instead of the double layer leather there is padding lined with soft garment leather.

Onto the body the bridle leather belt is riveted. The length and holes right until the first rivet allows for circumference between 30cm and 54cm. The belt is closed with a roller buckle for easy handling. Behind the buckle there is a locking post to lock the collar onto the sub. There are four solid, welded D-rings hold in place by the rivets.

The Mr S version is available in black, grey, rad and blue while you can get the Fetters model now in eight colors from classic black and grey up to vibrant green.

Detail of the Roller Buckle and Locking Post

Detail of the Roller Buckle and Locking Post

Playing with the Toy

Like I wrote in article about collars this category of toys fulfils two purposes: The first is showing to the world belonging and attachment. Being so comfortable and well made I have friends who wear this collar almost all the time when they are not in the office. This collar is just wide enough to be noticeable and thus remind the sub that he belongs to someone else yet narrow enough not to be annoying and thus interfering with his tasks. The locking post adds a great psychological momentum because the sub is not able to take the sign of the submission the top has put on him off.

Detail of a D-Ring

Detail of a D-Ring

From the play perspective what sets this collar apart is the number of D-rings. With four there are ample possibilities to attach the sub to furniture or other objects or the other way round attach things to the sub. Keeping in mind that anything that pulls on the neck can strangle the sub the collar can be incoorperated into numerous bondage layouts. A D-ring is a good place to attach rope for elaborate rope bondage layouts. On a lazier and more stressful side of things four D-rings are just enough for a very intense hogtie using ankle and wrist restraints.

Conclusion: Comfortable and versatile bondage collar
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Very well made Mr S $77.95
Locking Regulation £74.99
Four D-rings

 

Mr S Quick-Pull Choke Collar and Short Leash

Vendor: Mr S

Mr S Quick-Pull Choke Collar & Short Leash

Mr S Quick-Pull Choke Collar & Short Leash

Today I am actually reviewing two toys: The Quick Choking Collar and the Short Leash. But since the work together so well I thought I review them together.

Construction

The Quick Choking Collar has two pieces. The first is a 42cm long bridle leather belt with hole punched on the one side and a welded steel ring hold in place by a rivet on the other side. The second piece is made out of three layers of bridle leather with a roller buckle on side and a rectangular steel gate with a roller barrel on the other side. Above this gate a leather flap is riveted.

The Short Leash is a loop made out of Mr S’ high quality bridle leather. On the bottom there is a carabineer with a swivel link riveted in place. The overall length of the leash is 38cm including the carabineer.

Important Advice on Breath Play

The toy I am reviewing today is a breath play toy. The thrill of breath play comes from the reduction of oxygen supply to the brain.

No matter how much self control you think you have NEVER EVER do breath control on your own! Too many accidents have claimed lives of beloved members of the kink community. No adrenaline rush is worth risking your life. So even if there is not BC top around close to you please do not engage into breath play on your own!

Detail of the Carabineer of the Mr S Short Leash

Detail of the Carabineer of the Mr S Short Leash

Playing with the Toy

In order to put the collar onto the sub put the steel gate onto the belt and close the belt with the roller buckle around the neck. Make sure that the leather flap covers the gap between the two leather pieces so skin does not get pinched when the collar is pulled on. Than attach the carabineer to the steel ring. If you now pull on the leash the collar tighten reducing the blood flow to the brain in the two arteries on both sides of the front of the neck. The sensation will range from feeling of pressure inside the head to lightheadedness up to black outs. The intensity of the effect is determined by the force and duration of the pull. Reducing the oxygen supply will release an adrenaline rush. However limited oxygen supply can lead to permanent even fatal damages so only engage in such play with people you trust.

 

Detail of the Quick-Pull Choke Collar

Detail of the Quick-Pull Choke Collar

This ambiguous nature between pleasure and danger makes this an intriguing toy for top – sub (esp. puppy) couple who know and trust each other. Placing desired things just out of reach or encouraging the sub to escape so that he has to choose between choking or enduring can be a very hot scene. One testee put the collar on his bottoms to pull the ass closer when fucking them vigorously and increasing their submissive headspace through the choking action.

The Short Leash is a useful toy with every type of collar to lead the sub around, hand him over to other tops or keep your puppy in check when he wants to run away. Being made out of stiff bridle leather the loop can also be used as a medium intensity, quite stingy spanking implement.

Conclusion: Nifty toy for edge play
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Very well made Dangerous in the wrong hands Quick Choke Collar $54.95
Versatile Short Leash $23.95

 

Fetters Padded Locking Wrist & Ankle Cuffs

Vendor: Regulation & Mr S

Fetters Padded Locking Restraints for Wrist and Ankle

Fetters Padded Locking Restraints for Wrist and Ankle

Construction

Both restraints are made in a cuff style: There is a piece of padding which goes around the joint which is fettered with a strap. The padding is a thick and soft piece of foam lined with soft leather. Onto the outside of the padding a piece of bridle leather which is a bid narrower than the padding. So even when the sub struggles heavily there is padding over the leather’s hard edges. The bridle leather piece is also only approx 4/5 as long as the padding leaving a part of it free the fold down for a secure fit even if the sub really has small wrists or ankles. Through the padding and onto the bridle leather piece the bridle leather belt is riveted. Four rivets hold the two D-rings, the locking posts and the roller buckle in place.

The belt on these restraints are long enough with holes punched close enough to the rivet that they can accommodate small to really large wrists and ankles. When you are on the larger end of the circumference spectrum there will be a space without padding which did not bother all testees.

Minimal Circumference Maximal Lockable Circumference Maximal Not Lockable Circumference
Wrist Restraints 10cm 24cm 32cm
Ankle Restraints 15.5cm 27cm 35.5cm

When I first got the restraints I was a bit puzzled by a rather large “wave” on the belt between the central rivets. It turns out that once you put the restraint onto a sub the padding follows the curvature of the wave so the belt does not get stretched! This attention to detail shows on the entire toy: The stitching is flawless, the D-rings are welded, the leather smells and feels like good, sustainably tanned leather is supposed to. In terms of customizing you just recently got the choice of black and white for the strap and a choice of 8 different colors for the padding to match your fetish gear.

Detail of the Lavish Padding

Detail of the Lavish Padding

Finally, a word on the Mr S restraints. The restraints I am reviewing are the ones from Fetters but I have played with the Mr S ones several dozen times in the USA. So I can assure you that in terms of quality and functionality they are no different than the ones from Fetters. The only difference is that you can “only” choose between black, grey, red and blue lining for the padding and that the straps are only available in black.

So a bit like with the ErosTek power boxes: When you are living in Europe, go for the ones from Regulation, when you living in the USA go for the ones from Mr S.

Playing with it

Detail of one of two D-Rings, the Locking Posts and the Roller Buckle,

Detail of one of two D-Rings, the Locking Posts and the Roller Buckle,

What sets these restraints apart from others is really the padding. It is so lavish, lush and soft that once broken in and fettered in a secure position there is no feeling of being restrained at all. It is only when the sub starts to struggle that the he feels that behind the pillowy veneer is a merciless, heavy duty restraint keeping them in place even when he fights hard! For that reason I like these restraints a lot for heavy scenes with a very active sub because the fragile joints are well protected by the thick padding. Because they are not that noticeable these restraints are great for subs who want to know they are fettered but are not comfortable (yet) with the tight feeling of a restraint around the joints. Being so comfortable I had several testees using them while sleeping. Since the initial bondage feeling is not quite there I recommend locking the belts slowly one after another so that the sub can hear the clicking sound and realizes that without the key they are not coming off.

Once it comes to tying someone down these restraints are made for complex bondage layouts. With two D-rings with a width of 37mm per restraints there are enough attachment points for elaborate bondage setups.

There are matching collars available: A padded one from Fetters and a non-padded one from Mr S which I will be reviewing in a couple of weeks.

Conclusion: Restraints comfortable enough to be worn 24/7 yet strict enough to power out even an extremely fighting sub.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Lavish padding for comfortable wear and exceptionally joint protection Padding could be a bit longer Fetters Wrist Restraints £79.99
Fetters Ankle Restraints £81.99
Mr S Wrist Restraints $139.95
Extremely well made out of high quality materials with attention to details Mr S Ankle Restraints §149.95
Two D-rings per restraint
Lockable
Lots of color customizing options to match favorite fetish gear

ErosTek ET302R

Vendor: Mr S (North America) or Regulation (EU)

The ErosTek ET302R E-Stim Power Box along with the Remote Control

The ErosTek ET302R E-Stim Power Box along with the Remote Control

Construction

This power box is quite small measuring only 96mm x 61mm x 26mm. It is made out of sturdy black plastic which has an abrasive surface but on the top for better grip. On top the program numbers with the corresponding names are printed with fluorescent ink so after letting the device sit in light a bit you can read which program is which number even in the dark. On the bottom there is the battery compartment for 9V block batteries. All important functions are found at the front of the box. There are the two 3.5mm jackets with channel A on the far left and channel b on the far right. Left from the middle is a double digit nine-segment display with red LEDs, right from it is mono microphone and the power button.

This power box is controlled using a small remote control which measures 72mm x 34mm x 14mm. It features a small carabineer on the lower left corner so you can attach it to a lanyard. In order to exchange the battery you have to unscrew the bottom of the remote control. On the top there are four buttons numbered 0 to 3. Under each button it says what the button does resp. what holding button 0 or 1 down and pressing 2 and 3 will do. On the far right side of the remote there is another red LED which flashed when you press a button.

The box comes with a detailed instruction book and two 3.5mm to 4mm banana plug leads.

Playing with the Toy

As with all E-Stim boxes the sensation experience by the sub depends on a number of factors like which electrode is used where on the body. So the description of the individual programs can only be a rough one.

Program Name Number Induced Sensation
Basic 0 On-Off stimulation with both channels overlapping a bit.
Waves 1 Raising and falling stimulation with Channel B raising while Channel A is going down.
Stroke 2 A bit like wave with raising and falling stimulation with Channel B rising while Channel A is going down yet the speed and intensity changes over time.
Rhythm 3 On-off stimulation with one channel being strong and the other being softer. The stronger channel will increase in intensity to a peak and will start over.
Random 4 Random stimulation in pattern and intensity. Sometimes a channel gets switched off for a period of time to let the nerve endings recover.
Audio Soft 5 Even soft noises get transformned into stimulation on both channels. Best used in a quite environment otherwise the stimulation is continuous.
Audio Loud 6 Quieter noises are ignored and only louder ones produce stimulation on both channels.
Training Levels 1 – 3 7 First select the intended intensity in the Basic program. If you press button 1 a short burst of this intensity is fired. With button 2 a longer, more intense burst is fired. With button 3 an even longer, more intense burst is fired. If you keep button 3 pressed the intensity will grow stronger every second the button is pressed!
Training Ramps 1 – 3 8 First select the maximum intensity in the Basic program. When pressing buttons 1 to 3 the intensity slowly builds up until the selected intensity while 1 is the slowest and 3 is the quickest build up.
Training Signals 1 – 3 9 First select the intended intensity in the Basic program. Each button from 1 to 3 create unique pattern in roughly the selected intensity.

With this box you can only select a program for both channels. There is no way to select a different program for channel A and channel B. When playing for extended periods of time the box will shut down if it hasn’t received a command in 30 minutes resp. 120 minutes if in one of the training modes (number 7 to 9). So especially in long term scenes regularly increase the stimulation a bit. This is also good general advice because the nerves adjust to the stimulation so a constant stimulation level is felt less intense over time.

Detail of the Control Panel of the ErosTek ET302R

Detail of the Control Panel of the ErosTek ET302R

When I first got this box I have to admit the way of controlling it scared me a bit with double and triple function keys. Being more of a bottom who in a nutshell has to explain a potential top how the device works I was a bit discouraged. However As already written the control layout is printed on the remote control and after having used the box four times I knew intuitively which button to press for what. The red LED display works great in all environments with when starting telling the battery level and the corresponding left or right bottom LED flashing when a channel is firing.

This box is even smaller than the ET232 I reviewed last year so it is even better for travelling. The drawback is that you can’t manipulate the programs so you are basically stuck with the stimulation that comes out of the box (don’t get me wrong! The stimulation the box delivers is awesome!). But what this box lacks in adjustability it wins in flexibility being remote controlled. On an open field the range of the remote control is approx. 30m, inside a building depending on the number and material of walls up to 15m.
Having the controls detached from the box creates a big mindfuck. The sub never knows when the stimulation will kick in and in what intensity. So many scenarios are possible: From the sub laying bound alone in the playroom to going shopping when suddenly the e-stim kicks in and the sub has to get a hold of himself. The latter scenario works especially well with the training programs. I know numerous masters who trained their slaves to perform different tasks depending on which signal is fired. Complete remote control though takes a bit of mental effort at the side of the top who needs to know in which program he was on which level in order to operate the box without the display. Yet again, with a bit of training this works really well.
Especially when visiting big events or play parties I highly recommend changing the channel on the box (How to do this is very well described in the manual). Most people don’t bother to do so and I have heard of cheeky people walking around at big events like IML with their remote set to the standard and pressing buttons hoping a box in a training mode on their frequency is waiting for a command…

Detail of the Battery Compartment of the ErosTek ET302R

Detail of the Battery Compartment of the ErosTek ET302R

The fact sheet says that the ET320R has 60 micro coulombs per pulse versus the ET312b which has 80 micro coulombs per pulse. Of cause when it comes to stimulation more is always better but the small box is definitely powerful enough to make you cum, scream or beg for more.  Speaking of fact sheets: I have talked to people who have owned their boxes for nearly a decade and being an electronic device it will sooner or later have some issues. They have ensured me that with a little technical knowledge and talent this box is easy to repair; the manufacturer ErosTek has recently launched a spare part section on their website to it can now be repaired with original parts. However: I have to strongly urge you to only let a true electrical engineering expert repair this box because malfunctions can cause serious harm or at best unintended and unwanted unpleasant stimulation!

Finally a word of warning for people wanting to order it inside the EU: All Erostek devices I have seen so far are lacking the CE marking which is a requirement for a device being sold in the EU. Several friends of mine had their Erostek device being confiscated by custom officers in several different countries when ordered directly from the USA. Best and safest way to get an Erostek device into the EU is either ordering it through Regulation in London or purchase it when visiting a country outside the EU and bring it with you personally (even though theoretically it can be confiscated by custom at the air port).

Conclusion: The smallest and most flexible remote controlled electro box out there.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Powerful Programs can’t be manipulated Mr S $399,95
Fun Programs Same program on both channels
Remote controllable Regulation £399
Very small
Good value for money
Easy to repair

 

Mr S Nasty Rubber Stick & Nasty Lil’ Rubber Paddle

Vendor: Mr S

Mr S Nasty Rubber Stick & Nasty Lil' Rubber Paddle

Mr S Nasty Rubber Stick & Nasty Lil‘ Rubber Paddle

Construction

As the name of these toys already states they are made out of rubber. While the scent is not as intense as on a piece of rubber clothing they have a faint, for most rubber fetishists stimulating tire scent. The stick is 46cm long, has a diameter of 1.9cm and weights approx. 150g. The main body of the paddle measures 18x8cm and has a 12×3.5cm long grip. The paddle is 1.2cm thick and weights 250g.

Both toys have a hole drilled through their rear end through which with leather string forms a strap.

Playing with it

A friend of mine from Chicago calls the Nasty Rubber Stick his “ouch stick” and right he is. Despite the considerably high weight for an impact toy, the little give in the material makes them stingy as hell! I recommend approaching the max. impact power very slowely cause the blast they deliver is intense and even a mild to medium continuous tapping can be agonizing. Naturally both toys color a sub very quickly. Even a medium blow will leave a red mark on the skin that will stay for some time. When you put real force into the single hits and concentrate on one area bruises will inevitably occur!

Detail of the Leather Strap

Detail of the Leather Strap

If you want to get a somewhat mild impact sensation out of these toys I recommend snapping them. Being very flexible the snap back not fast and thus the sensation is a mild thuddish sting.

Rubber conducts temperature very well. So as the cheeks of the sub begin to turn red and warm the paddle will get warmer. Of cause this also works in the other direction. For an interesting twist stick the paddle in a bucket of ice water. This effect isn’t as strong as with metals and due to begin frail when frozen don’t put the rubber toys into the freezer before a scene. For that I would recommend aluminum impact toys.

A big advantage of these toys is the material: When you play with different partners at a play party simple spray disinfection spray on the toys and rub it off. The rubber will take no damage from it. While you can use silicone oil or lube to make these toys shiny like rubber gear I would not recommend it. The silicone will make the toy slippy then hitting the sub and create a film on the impact area. So if you switch to another toy it will pick up the silicone lube.

Conslusion: Sever and low maintenance impact toy.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Creates intense sensation without much effort Hard to dose sensation Mr S’ Nasty Rubber Stick $28.95
Easy to clean Mr S’ Nasty Lil’ Rubber Paddle $28.95
Inexpensive