Anal Toys 101

Finding the right anal toy and keeping it in good shape so it lasts for a long time can be a bit of a challenge. In this 101 I talk about what to consider when buying an anal toy and how to care for it properly.

Buyer’s Guide to Anal toys

There are many aspects to consider when choosing an anal toy. Especially when you are buying your first one and have not developed personal preferences yet, giving each aspect some thought is a good idea because a good anal toy is quite an investment. But if chosen wisely will bring you fun for years to come.

Material

Deciding out of which material your new anal toy is going to be made is the first step when choosing it because the material properties impact many relevant aspects of anal play.

Material composition

This is the most important aspect of choosing a toy. In the old days before EU regulations and custom testing imported goods, toys which I would not have recommended to put up your butt were widely available!

The inside of your colon is basically one big mucosal that will happily absorb whatever the lube (especially water-based lube) washes out of the toy’s material. Thus I recommend only purchasing toys which are manufactured in the EU or USA where dangerous plasticizers like phthalates or lead as a catalytic agent for silicone are forbidden. Just to be safe look for the label “Platinum Silicone” or “Phthalates Free” when choosing a toy. At the end of Buyer’s Guide there is a list of manufacturers I personally source from if you want a recommendation.

Lube

Not every lube can be used with every material. Some lubes will actually cause to disintegrate your toy. Thus depending on your lube preferences you have to choose the toy material.

The following chart shows which lube can generally speaking be safely used with which material. Of cause individual material composition can lead to unexpected effects. If you want to err on the side of safety only use water-based lube.

Water-base Lube Silicone-Base Lube Hybrid Lube Oil/Fat-Base Lube
Silicone X X
PVC/ Vinyl
Rubber X
TPR (✔) (✔)
Other hard Plastic
Wood
Glass
Metal

The Square Peg Charlie Horse Wiggly in Supersoft Bronze from Regulation

Firmness & Surface Smoothness

While glass, metal and wood are always hard, the plastic ones come in different degrees of firmness. With the latter group the thickness is also influenced by the thickness. The thicker a toy the harder it will feel.

Which degree of firmness is good is depends on the usage situation. For training your ass a softer toy is better because it adjusts a bit to the sphincter. For wearing a toy for an extended period of time a harder material is better because the sphincter will adjust to the form of the toy which is more comfortable in the long run. Also with hard surfaces the likelihood of skin folds and thus a pinching sensation decreases.

The firmness also impacts the structural integrity. The firmer the toy the easier it will stand up by itself. This is especially important then you want to ride or sit on a toy. If it is too soft, it will collapse.

Furthermore the surface structure is important. The smoother the surface the easier the toy glides in and the easier it will be to clean.

Pervertables

A quick word on pervertables: There are wooden, metal and glass objects which are not made for anal play but are being used for it, most prominently baseball bats or batons. Before inserting them into your rectum make sure they are deburred and 100% smooth! Especially which with wood it is imperative that is has a sanded and treated surface! Getting a splinter into your colon is always a reason to rush to the ER! As for glass objects, especially vases and bottles: Keep them out of your ass! The glass used to anal toys is a special type of glass that almost never breaks and glass anal toys are always solid. The injuries caused by shards of broken glass inside your rectum can be lethal!

The Bolder Stoll Doll from Regulation

Toy Form Factor

There are two major form factors: Dildos, which are compared to their thickness relatively long shafts with a tapered ending for easier insertion, and plugs, which are shorter and between the maximum diameter and the base taper again so they can stay inside the butt.

Dildos

Dildos are probably the oldest sex toys humans invented. Stone penises as old as 28.000 years have been excavated. They induce a friction sensation on the nerve endings inside the sphincter while sliding in and out and at best hit the prostate. Depending on the glans’ shape there can be some stretching sensation.

Dildos come in two varieties. The first one are realistic dildos. They mimic the penis shape of humans, animal or anthropomorphic beings. This means the shaft is textured with veins which intensify the friction and thus the sensation. At the bottom end most of the them feature a base shaped like balls. The second variety are shape dildos. They are bullet or torpedo shaped and lack natural texturing.

The Square Peg Depth Probe from Regulation

Somewhere between dildos and plugs are shape dildos which consist of a series of bulges. The most extreme form of this form are anal beads. They are a series of balls connected by a string or a tubes which are inserted into the ass and then slowly pulled out. Of cause these toys aim to create a stretching sensation rather than a friction one.

A special form of dildos are so call depth trainers, also commonly called colon snakes. They are long (at least 35cm long), made out of flexible materials and don’t have much texture; a depth indication scale at most. They are designed to seduce the second sphincter to gradually open up to prepare for deep fisting.  Since this sphincter is not used to physical stimulation and unlike the anus can’t be relaxed purposefully, training it takes some time. So don’t rush it!

The Oxballs Pig Hole Deep from Mr S

Plugs

The shape of a butt plugs is best compared to the bottom half of a sand clock. From the tip they gradually increase in diameter and then – depending on the plug – either taper again or go directly into a short neck which is attached to a base. Through the gradually increasing diameter the main sensation of plugs is a stretching one.  So plugs are good to slowly accustom to and train the sphincter to a certain diameter.

A special form of plugs are hollow or tunnel plugs. Their outside form is like a butt plug but instead of being solid they have hole in the middle. Through the opening in the middle the tip is dull. So even if you can take the maximum diameter of the plug you might not be able to take it or only after a long pre-stretching. The hole is useful for many things. Through it lube or other liquids can be poured or the closing function of the sphincter can temporarily be taken away. The plug also protects the nerve endings in the sphincter from friction. Thus hollow plugs are especially useful in combination with depth trainers. Such plugs shield the anus from the friction sensation allowing the bottom to focus on what is happening at his second sphincter. When the tunnel plug is made out of a stretchy material (and is large enough) it can be used to fist through it making a formally too small interesting again or put it over a standard butt plug to increase its size.

With the increasing popularity of pet play there is a growing market of tail plugs. Instead of a base an appendix mimicking the look of an animal’s tail (most common are dog and pig tails) is attached to the plug’s body.  When choosing a tail keep two things in mind: Don’t buy a too small plug section because if it slides in too easily it will also slide out easily causing you to lose the tail when walking or wagging. Furthermore the mass ration between the plug and the tail should not be too much off. The center of gravity should be at the plug otherwise there is also the danger of the tail popping out easily. Tails are also popular with switchers not into pet play. When fucking somebody the tail will develop an momentum which is transferred to the plug section which than stimulates the prostate.

Finding the Right Size & Form

The following factors determined first if you will be able to take the anal toy and second how much you will enjoy it.

The Domestic Partner Crack Attack from Regulation

Maximum Diameter

Usually 3cm to 4cm is a good size to start out anal play. As you progress to bigger toys I recommend going up in steps of 1cm to 1.5cm increased maximum diameter. This is enough of a challenge yet you get the satisfaction of conquering the toy after a couple of days to weeks depending on how thoroughly you train. I know that this is costly by trying to get a toy in for weeks and always failing is very frustrating!

Slope

The slope of a toy defines how quickly the diameter from the tip on increases.

Even though the sphincter at the anus can somewhat voluntarily be relaxed it still is a muscle humans cannot control completely. It needs to be seduced to open up and in order to establish a certain training level actually carefully (!) stretched like every other muscle. Thus generally speaking steeper slopes are better because they allow the sphincter to open up more gradually. Especially when you are a novice stay away from toys with large dull tips because it will just press against the sphincter and it won’t open up. But even with a well-trained ass you will encounter toys that diameter wise are not really a challenge yet you won’t be able to take due to a weird slope. Sadly there now way to know before the purchase with which toys this is going to be the case so please be prepared for one or two useless purchases.

At butt plugs there are two slopes to look it: First the one before the maximum diameter which I just talked about. The second one is the one behind it. It defines how easily the toy comes out again. When you want to train your sphincter a steep slope is preferable. Once inside you can slowly fuck yourself with the plug, enjoying the stretching sensation. If you want to wear the plug for an extended period of time a duller to non-existing slope is preferable because it makes involuntarily popping out more difficult. However please keep in mind: When keeping a plug in, the “warm-up” effect of pushing it in slowly fades so seducing your sphincter to open up and release the plug becomes increasingly more difficult when keeping it in for long.

The Square Peg Happy Hour from Mr S

Position of Widest Diameter

Especially when you progress in training the position of the widest diameter becomes an important aspect to keep in mind. If you stick with a steep slope and increase the diameter the location of the maximum diameter moves further away from the tip so you have to insert more length for the maximum stretch. Since the colon is a quite small body cavern you might not reach the neck or even the maximum diameter. From a psychological point of view this is bad when training because inserting a toy completely fills you with a sense of accomplishment and giving you an opportunity to rest. This is usually a boost of eagerness to train further. Constantly failing on a plug is quite demotivating.

Texture

The texture describes the surface of a toy beyond the material properties (see: Firmness & Surface Smoothness). Since texture increases the friction of a toy it makes the insertion more difficult. So a textured toy with a diameter you usually take easily might not fit afterall.

In the section about natural dildos I have already briefly talked about natural texturing. They comprise of veins, the molded glans and foreskin and when we look at anthropomorphic toys scales, etc.

Detail of the Convex Shape and the Heavily Textured Surface of Apollo the Chimera

On shape dildos and plugs these three texture patters can be found (in ascending order of intensity): Groves, bumps and ridges. Which form delivers the best sensation is very individual. But a good rule of thumb is: the higher the texture is risen the stronger the stimulation. This of cause means that these toys are meant for play when the hole is already relaxed and well played with so it is not about the stretching (sensation) but about teasing the nerves in the sphincter. Please keep in mind that this form of play can wear out an ass quickly so be prepared for the scene to end rather sooner than later.

Extra Features

Sometimes toys come with extra features for a more intense or varied play. The most commonly found extra are sucktion cups. They enable you to temporarily securely attach the toy to a smooth surface (tiles are best for it) using vacuum. This is nifty feature when you really want to ride at toy so it doesn’t slip away.

For training the sphincter or creating a feeling of being stuffed without being able to take large diameters inflatable toys are useful. Once inserted you can pump them up in order to increase the diameter. I recommend buying only inflatable toys with a solid core for easier insertion.

Detail of the Base with Suction Cup Feature

A less commonly found feature are cum tubes. At the tip of the toy there is a small opening onto which a tube is attached. At the end of this tube is a syringe filled with a cum like lube. If you pus the end of the syringe the cum is getting splashed into the colon simulating an ejaculation. As nifty and unique as this sensation might be, a cum tube makes cleaning and drying of the toy more difficult.

For added stimulation some anal toys feature a vibrating function. When you are using quite hard toys this sensation can also be achieved by pressing a magic wand against the toy’s base. Another added stimulation is e-stim. Please refer to my in-depth review of e-stim plugs here for more information.

Personal Recommendations

This is a highly subjective, certainly not complete list of brand and retailers where good anal toys can be found. From these I source my anal toys from because I trust them for their product safety and quality.

Caring for your Anal Toys

Cleaning & Safer Sex

From a Safer Sex point of view a toy should either be used only by one person or covered by a condom. While the first is unlikely if you are having an active “social” life, the latter is unpractical as soon as it comes to toys larger than an L size penis. So cleaning the toys the right way is essential.

To clean your toys after play fill the sink with water between 40°C and 50°C, add dish soap and let the toy soak for approx. 15 minutes. I recommend using dish soap without perfume or lotion because these additives are bad for rubber and some PVCs. If you have used very thick water based lube add salt to break down the lube. At the soaking scrub the toys with a soft brush and rinse the soap water off. As a first step of sanitizing fill the sink again with hot water, add vinegar-based cleaner (possibly organic because you want to shove the toy up your butt again) and let it soak for a quarter of an hour. The acid in the vinegar will also deal with most of the unpleasant smells. Rinse the toy off and let it dry. Finally spray the toy with a sanitizer. The agents in the sanitizer can make glossy surfaces dull so you might want to try it on the base where the blemished surface is inconspicuous.

With some materials other means of sterilization are also possible once the lube has been washed off.  Metal toys can be flamed or autoclaved; the latter is also possible with high quality silicone toys.

A common question is how to deal with discolored toys. Sadly this effect is irreversible and simply comes with ages of plastic toys. To avoid it, buy only black toys.

Storage

In order to have long lasting fun with your toys keep some simple storage rules in mind. Always clean the toys after using them. The lube or body fluids otherwise can foster chemical reactions which might harm the toy. The storage place should be dry and well ventilated especially when you are storing toys from different manufacturers or made out of different materials together. The toys must never touch! The different plasticizers used by different manufacturers and materials can cause the toys to dissolve when touching or the air being filled with them. If the process started (an area getting sticky or gooy) it is too late. Sadly the process is irreversible and sooner than later you have to throw away the toy. Especially soft toys should be stored upright (or in case of depth trainers loosely rolled up) otherwise they might get permanent creases.

Mr S Fetters Locking Bondage Collar

Vendor: Mr S

The Mr S Fetters Locking Collar

The Mr S Fetters Locking Collar

Construction

This collar is the matching one to the restraints I reviewed a couple of weeks ago. The basis of the collar is a sturdy bridle leather body. Onto the body a folded, 6.7cm wide piece of soft garment leather is sowed so the collar can be worn for extended periods of time without feeling uncomfortable. On the Fetters version instead of the double layer leather there is padding lined with soft garment leather.

Onto the body the bridle leather belt is riveted. The length and holes right until the first rivet allows for circumference between 30cm and 54cm. The belt is closed with a roller buckle for easy handling. Behind the buckle there is a locking post to lock the collar onto the sub. There are four solid, welded D-rings hold in place by the rivets.

The Mr S version is available in black, grey, rad and blue while you can get the Fetters model now in eight colors from classic black and grey up to vibrant green.

Detail of the Roller Buckle and Locking Post

Detail of the Roller Buckle and Locking Post

Playing with the Toy

Like I wrote in article about collars this category of toys fulfils two purposes: The first is showing to the world belonging and attachment. Being so comfortable and well made I have friends who wear this collar almost all the time when they are not in the office. This collar is just wide enough to be noticeable and thus remind the sub that he belongs to someone else yet narrow enough not to be annoying and thus interfering with his tasks. The locking post adds a great psychological momentum because the sub is not able to take the sign of the submission the top has put on him off.

Detail of a D-Ring

Detail of a D-Ring

From the play perspective what sets this collar apart is the number of D-rings. With four there are ample possibilities to attach the sub to furniture or other objects or the other way round attach things to the sub. Keeping in mind that anything that pulls on the neck can strangle the sub the collar can be incoorperated into numerous bondage layouts. A D-ring is a good place to attach rope for elaborate rope bondage layouts. On a lazier and more stressful side of things four D-rings are just enough for a very intense hogtie using ankle and wrist restraints.

Conclusion: Comfortable and versatile bondage collar
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Very well made Mr S $77.95
Locking Regulation £74.99
Four D-rings

 

Mr S Quick-Pull Choke Collar and Short Leash

Vendor: Mr S

Mr S Quick-Pull Choke Collar & Short Leash

Mr S Quick-Pull Choke Collar & Short Leash

Today I am actually reviewing two toys: The Quick Choking Collar and the Short Leash. But since the work together so well I thought I review them together.

Construction

The Quick Choking Collar has two pieces. The first is a 42cm long bridle leather belt with hole punched on the one side and a welded steel ring hold in place by a rivet on the other side. The second piece is made out of three layers of bridle leather with a roller buckle on side and a rectangular steel gate with a roller barrel on the other side. Above this gate a leather flap is riveted.

The Short Leash is a loop made out of Mr S’ high quality bridle leather. On the bottom there is a carabineer with a swivel link riveted in place. The overall length of the leash is 38cm including the carabineer.

Important Advice on Breath Play

The toy I am reviewing today is a breath play toy. The thrill of breath play comes from the reduction of oxygen supply to the brain.

No matter how much self control you think you have NEVER EVER do breath control on your own! Too many accidents have claimed lives of beloved members of the kink community. No adrenaline rush is worth risking your life. So even if there is not BC top around close to you please do not engage into breath play on your own!

Detail of the Carabineer of the Mr S Short Leash

Detail of the Carabineer of the Mr S Short Leash

Playing with the Toy

In order to put the collar onto the sub put the steel gate onto the belt and close the belt with the roller buckle around the neck. Make sure that the leather flap covers the gap between the two leather pieces so skin does not get pinched when the collar is pulled on. Than attach the carabineer to the steel ring. If you now pull on the leash the collar tighten reducing the blood flow to the brain in the two arteries on both sides of the front of the neck. The sensation will range from feeling of pressure inside the head to lightheadedness up to black outs. The intensity of the effect is determined by the force and duration of the pull. Reducing the oxygen supply will release an adrenaline rush. However limited oxygen supply can lead to permanent even fatal damages so only engage in such play with people you trust.

 

Detail of the Quick-Pull Choke Collar

Detail of the Quick-Pull Choke Collar

This ambiguous nature between pleasure and danger makes this an intriguing toy for top – sub (esp. puppy) couple who know and trust each other. Placing desired things just out of reach or encouraging the sub to escape so that he has to choose between choking or enduring can be a very hot scene. One testee put the collar on his bottoms to pull the ass closer when fucking them vigorously and increasing their submissive headspace through the choking action.

The Short Leash is a useful toy with every type of collar to lead the sub around, hand him over to other tops or keep your puppy in check when he wants to run away. Being made out of stiff bridle leather the loop can also be used as a medium intensity, quite stingy spanking implement.

Conclusion: Nifty toy for edge play
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Very well made Dangerous in the wrong hands Quick Choke Collar $54.95
Versatile Short Leash $23.95

 

Oxballs Pig-Hole

Toy Properties

Form: Tunnel Plug
Material: Silicone
Colors: Black and Red
Firmness: Medium; does not collapse when standing up.
Lube: Water and Oil based. Silicone or hybrid lube can destroy the toy!
Cleaning: Soaking in boiling water with dish-soap than use sanitizer.
Safer Sex: Expose to boiling water to kill germs
Storage:
Store standing up in a well-ventilated place not touching other toys to prevent damaging the toys.

Vendor: Mr S Leather (USA) & Regulation (EU)

The Oxballs Pig Hole

The Oxballs Pig Hole

Since I started reviewing anal toys the Oxballs Pig-Hole hollow butt plug was one of the toys I got the most questions about so I was more than happy when Uberkinky sent me a review sample of the XXL version.

Construction

The Oxballs Pig-Hole hollow butt plug is as the name says a tunnel plug. It starts out with a  very large base so it does not accidently disappear into a greedy ass. From a tapered neck the plug expands into a barrel shaped body and narrows for the opening  again. The end is a bit slant so you have a bit of a “tip” when inserting the toy into the ass.

The inside of the barrel shaped body has some grooves for added stability. The toy is currently available in five sizes for almost every experience level.

Size Largest Diameter Smallest Diameter Internal Diameter Insertable Length
Small 5.5cm 4cm 3.2cm 7.6cm
Medium 6.5cm 4.9cm 3.8cm 8.9cm
Large 7.1cm 5.5cm 4.1cm 10.2cm
XLarge 7.7cm 5,7cm 4.4cm 11.4cm
XXLarge 8.4cm 6.5cm 4.78cm 12.7cm
Folding the Oxballs Pig Hole for Easier Insertion

Folding the Oxballs Pig-Hole for Easier Insertion

Playing with it

The most difficult thing with the Oxballs Pig-Hole is how to get it inside the ass. Despite the grooves especially the sizes on the fisting side collapse rather collapse than be pushed into the ass. The method is use is to roll and fold the plug as shown in the picture, insert the compact package and let is deflate inside the ass.

Once inside the Pig-Hole is one of the most versatile ass toys I know. The fact that it gives in more easily than a solid plug makes it good for training the sphincter to relax more easily. Simply pull out the plug a bit, enjoy the stretch the plug’s body induces and let the ass suck the plug in again after a while and try again. Another way of training is wearing the plug for an extended period of time. The soft material and flexibility will allow the sphincter to shift the plug in a comfortable position while still stretching it. In order to avoid accidents I recommend using a diaper or a stopper plug with the Oxballs Pig-Hole.

A more or less forcefully open ass of cause is ideal for a lot of more or less evil activities. When you take a size with an internal diameter just a little bit smaller than the top’s dick the tightness of the Pig Hol- will feel like plowing a virgin’s ass. The grooves inside the body furthermore add stimulation. Some testees even used the Pig Hole as a masturbation toy. Naturally an open hole invites liquids to be poured into like lube or piss.

Detail of the Grooves Inside the Oxballs Pig Hole

Detail of the Grooves Inside the Oxballs Pig-Hole

When it comes to fisting the Oxballs Pig-Hole is a very nifty toy. The stretchiness of the material in combination with the size of the internal diameter of the XXL version allows a hand up to a glove size 8 to be pushed through the opening. This has two benefits: First, there is not friction on the sensible mucosa of the sphincter which can cause unpleasant feeling. So the fisting scene can go on longer. This lack of friction is also useful when you engage in depth training with according toys. Since there is not friction (sensation) you can fully focus on relaxing your second sphincter. Of cause you can turn the plug inside out to torment the sphincter even more (for an even more intense torment I recommend the Oxballs Finger Fucker I reviewed some weeks ago). Second if your regular fist partner’s hand is your current training level, adding a few millimeter of material thickness can spice up that width training again.

Where to buy?

The Oxballs Pig-Hole can be bought at Mr S Leather for prices between $56.95 – $98.95 resp. at Regulation for £44.99 to £69.99 depending on the size.

 

Fetters Padded Locking Wrist & Ankle Cuffs

Vendor: Regulation & Mr S

Fetters Padded Locking Restraints for Wrist and Ankle

Fetters Padded Locking Restraints for Wrist and Ankle

Construction

Both restraints are made in a cuff style: There is a piece of padding which goes around the joint which is fettered with a strap. The padding is a thick and soft piece of foam lined with soft leather. Onto the outside of the padding a piece of bridle leather which is a bid narrower than the padding. So even when the sub struggles heavily there is padding over the leather’s hard edges. The bridle leather piece is also only approx 4/5 as long as the padding leaving a part of it free the fold down for a secure fit even if the sub really has small wrists or ankles. Through the padding and onto the bridle leather piece the bridle leather belt is riveted. Four rivets hold the two D-rings, the locking posts and the roller buckle in place.

The belt on these restraints are long enough with holes punched close enough to the rivet that they can accommodate small to really large wrists and ankles. When you are on the larger end of the circumference spectrum there will be a space without padding which did not bother all testees.

Minimal Circumference Maximal Lockable Circumference Maximal Not Lockable Circumference
Wrist Restraints 10cm 24cm 32cm
Ankle Restraints 15.5cm 27cm 35.5cm

When I first got the restraints I was a bit puzzled by a rather large “wave” on the belt between the central rivets. It turns out that once you put the restraint onto a sub the padding follows the curvature of the wave so the belt does not get stretched! This attention to detail shows on the entire toy: The stitching is flawless, the D-rings are welded, the leather smells and feels like good, sustainably tanned leather is supposed to. In terms of customizing you just recently got the choice of black and white for the strap and a choice of 8 different colors for the padding to match your fetish gear.

Detail of the Lavish Padding

Detail of the Lavish Padding

Finally, a word on the Mr S restraints. The restraints I am reviewing are the ones from Fetters but I have played with the Mr S ones several dozen times in the USA. So I can assure you that in terms of quality and functionality they are no different than the ones from Fetters. The only difference is that you can “only” choose between black, grey, red and blue lining for the padding and that the straps are only available in black.

So a bit like with the ErosTek power boxes: When you are living in Europe, go for the ones from Regulation, when you living in the USA go for the ones from Mr S.

Playing with it

Detail of one of two D-Rings, the Locking Posts and the Roller Buckle,

Detail of one of two D-Rings, the Locking Posts and the Roller Buckle,

What sets these restraints apart from others is really the padding. It is so lavish, lush and soft that once broken in and fettered in a secure position there is no feeling of being restrained at all. It is only when the sub starts to struggle that the he feels that behind the pillowy veneer is a merciless, heavy duty restraint keeping them in place even when he fights hard! For that reason I like these restraints a lot for heavy scenes with a very active sub because the fragile joints are well protected by the thick padding. Because they are not that noticeable these restraints are great for subs who want to know they are fettered but are not comfortable (yet) with the tight feeling of a restraint around the joints. Being so comfortable I had several testees using them while sleeping. Since the initial bondage feeling is not quite there I recommend locking the belts slowly one after another so that the sub can hear the clicking sound and realizes that without the key they are not coming off.

Once it comes to tying someone down these restraints are made for complex bondage layouts. With two D-rings with a width of 37mm per restraints there are enough attachment points for elaborate bondage setups.

There are matching collars available: A padded one from Fetters and a non-padded one from Mr S which I will be reviewing in a couple of weeks.

Conclusion: Restraints comfortable enough to be worn 24/7 yet strict enough to power out even an extremely fighting sub.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Lavish padding for comfortable wear and exceptionally joint protection Padding could be a bit longer Fetters Wrist Restraints £79.99
Fetters Ankle Restraints £81.99
Mr S Wrist Restraints $139.95
Extremely well made out of high quality materials with attention to details Mr S Ankle Restraints §149.95
Two D-rings per restraint
Lockable
Lots of color customizing options to match favorite fetish gear

ErosTek ET302R

Vendor: Mr S (North America) or Regulation (EU)

The ErosTek ET302R E-Stim Power Box along with the Remote Control

The ErosTek ET302R E-Stim Power Box along with the Remote Control

Construction

This power box is quite small measuring only 96mm x 61mm x 26mm. It is made out of sturdy black plastic which has an abrasive surface but on the top for better grip. On top the program numbers with the corresponding names are printed with fluorescent ink so after letting the device sit in light a bit you can read which program is which number even in the dark. On the bottom there is the battery compartment for 9V block batteries. All important functions are found at the front of the box. There are the two 3.5mm jackets with channel A on the far left and channel b on the far right. Left from the middle is a double digit nine-segment display with red LEDs, right from it is mono microphone and the power button.

This power box is controlled using a small remote control which measures 72mm x 34mm x 14mm. It features a small carabineer on the lower left corner so you can attach it to a lanyard. In order to exchange the battery you have to unscrew the bottom of the remote control. On the top there are four buttons numbered 0 to 3. Under each button it says what the button does resp. what holding button 0 or 1 down and pressing 2 and 3 will do. On the far right side of the remote there is another red LED which flashed when you press a button.

The box comes with a detailed instruction book and two 3.5mm to 4mm banana plug leads.

Playing with the Toy

As with all E-Stim boxes the sensation experience by the sub depends on a number of factors like which electrode is used where on the body. So the description of the individual programs can only be a rough one.

Program Name Number Induced Sensation
Basic 0 On-Off stimulation with both channels overlapping a bit.
Waves 1 Raising and falling stimulation with Channel B raising while Channel A is going down.
Stroke 2 A bit like wave with raising and falling stimulation with Channel B rising while Channel A is going down yet the speed and intensity changes over time.
Rhythm 3 On-off stimulation with one channel being strong and the other being softer. The stronger channel will increase in intensity to a peak and will start over.
Random 4 Random stimulation in pattern and intensity. Sometimes a channel gets switched off for a period of time to let the nerve endings recover.
Audio Soft 5 Even soft noises get transformned into stimulation on both channels. Best used in a quite environment otherwise the stimulation is continuous.
Audio Loud 6 Quieter noises are ignored and only louder ones produce stimulation on both channels.
Training Levels 1 – 3 7 First select the intended intensity in the Basic program. If you press button 1 a short burst of this intensity is fired. With button 2 a longer, more intense burst is fired. With button 3 an even longer, more intense burst is fired. If you keep button 3 pressed the intensity will grow stronger every second the button is pressed!
Training Ramps 1 – 3 8 First select the maximum intensity in the Basic program. When pressing buttons 1 to 3 the intensity slowly builds up until the selected intensity while 1 is the slowest and 3 is the quickest build up.
Training Signals 1 – 3 9 First select the intended intensity in the Basic program. Each button from 1 to 3 create unique pattern in roughly the selected intensity.

With this box you can only select a program for both channels. There is no way to select a different program for channel A and channel B. When playing for extended periods of time the box will shut down if it hasn’t received a command in 30 minutes resp. 120 minutes if in one of the training modes (number 7 to 9). So especially in long term scenes regularly increase the stimulation a bit. This is also good general advice because the nerves adjust to the stimulation so a constant stimulation level is felt less intense over time.

Detail of the Control Panel of the ErosTek ET302R

Detail of the Control Panel of the ErosTek ET302R

When I first got this box I have to admit the way of controlling it scared me a bit with double and triple function keys. Being more of a bottom who in a nutshell has to explain a potential top how the device works I was a bit discouraged. However As already written the control layout is printed on the remote control and after having used the box four times I knew intuitively which button to press for what. The red LED display works great in all environments with when starting telling the battery level and the corresponding left or right bottom LED flashing when a channel is firing.

This box is even smaller than the ET232 I reviewed last year so it is even better for travelling. The drawback is that you can’t manipulate the programs so you are basically stuck with the stimulation that comes out of the box (don’t get me wrong! The stimulation the box delivers is awesome!). But what this box lacks in adjustability it wins in flexibility being remote controlled. On an open field the range of the remote control is approx. 30m, inside a building depending on the number and material of walls up to 15m.
Having the controls detached from the box creates a big mindfuck. The sub never knows when the stimulation will kick in and in what intensity. So many scenarios are possible: From the sub laying bound alone in the playroom to going shopping when suddenly the e-stim kicks in and the sub has to get a hold of himself. The latter scenario works especially well with the training programs. I know numerous masters who trained their slaves to perform different tasks depending on which signal is fired. Complete remote control though takes a bit of mental effort at the side of the top who needs to know in which program he was on which level in order to operate the box without the display. Yet again, with a bit of training this works really well.
Especially when visiting big events or play parties I highly recommend changing the channel on the box (How to do this is very well described in the manual). Most people don’t bother to do so and I have heard of cheeky people walking around at big events like IML with their remote set to the standard and pressing buttons hoping a box in a training mode on their frequency is waiting for a command…

Detail of the Battery Compartment of the ErosTek ET302R

Detail of the Battery Compartment of the ErosTek ET302R

The fact sheet says that the ET320R has 60 micro coulombs per pulse versus the ET312b which has 80 micro coulombs per pulse. Of cause when it comes to stimulation more is always better but the small box is definitely powerful enough to make you cum, scream or beg for more.  Speaking of fact sheets: I have talked to people who have owned their boxes for nearly a decade and being an electronic device it will sooner or later have some issues. They have ensured me that with a little technical knowledge and talent this box is easy to repair; the manufacturer ErosTek has recently launched a spare part section on their website to it can now be repaired with original parts. However: I have to strongly urge you to only let a true electrical engineering expert repair this box because malfunctions can cause serious harm or at best unintended and unwanted unpleasant stimulation!

Finally a word of warning for people wanting to order it inside the EU: All Erostek devices I have seen so far are lacking the CE marking which is a requirement for a device being sold in the EU. Several friends of mine had their Erostek device being confiscated by custom officers in several different countries when ordered directly from the USA. Best and safest way to get an Erostek device into the EU is either ordering it through Regulation in London or purchase it when visiting a country outside the EU and bring it with you personally (even though theoretically it can be confiscated by custom at the air port).

Conclusion: The smallest and most flexible remote controlled electro box out there.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Powerful Programs can’t be manipulated Mr S $399,95
Fun Programs Same program on both channels
Remote controllable Regulation £399
Very small
Good value for money
Easy to repair

 

Mr S Nasty Rubber Stick & Nasty Lil’ Rubber Paddle

Vendor: Mr S

Mr S Nasty Rubber Stick & Nasty Lil' Rubber Paddle

Mr S Nasty Rubber Stick & Nasty Lil‘ Rubber Paddle

Construction

As the name of these toys already states they are made out of rubber. While the scent is not as intense as on a piece of rubber clothing they have a faint, for most rubber fetishists stimulating tire scent. The stick is 46cm long, has a diameter of 1.9cm and weights approx. 150g. The main body of the paddle measures 18x8cm and has a 12×3.5cm long grip. The paddle is 1.2cm thick and weights 250g.

Both toys have a hole drilled through their rear end through which with leather string forms a strap.

Playing with it

A friend of mine from Chicago calls the Nasty Rubber Stick his “ouch stick” and right he is. Despite the considerably high weight for an impact toy, the little give in the material makes them stingy as hell! I recommend approaching the max. impact power very slowely cause the blast they deliver is intense and even a mild to medium continuous tapping can be agonizing. Naturally both toys color a sub very quickly. Even a medium blow will leave a red mark on the skin that will stay for some time. When you put real force into the single hits and concentrate on one area bruises will inevitably occur!

Detail of the Leather Strap

Detail of the Leather Strap

If you want to get a somewhat mild impact sensation out of these toys I recommend snapping them. Being very flexible the snap back not fast and thus the sensation is a mild thuddish sting.

Rubber conducts temperature very well. So as the cheeks of the sub begin to turn red and warm the paddle will get warmer. Of cause this also works in the other direction. For an interesting twist stick the paddle in a bucket of ice water. This effect isn’t as strong as with metals and due to begin frail when frozen don’t put the rubber toys into the freezer before a scene. For that I would recommend aluminum impact toys.

A big advantage of these toys is the material: When you play with different partners at a play party simple spray disinfection spray on the toys and rub it off. The rubber will take no damage from it. While you can use silicone oil or lube to make these toys shiny like rubber gear I would not recommend it. The silicone will make the toy slippy then hitting the sub and create a film on the impact area. So if you switch to another toy it will pick up the silicone lube.

Conslusion: Sever and low maintenance impact toy.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Creates intense sensation without much effort Hard to dose sensation Mr S’ Nasty Rubber Stick $28.95
Easy to clean Mr S’ Nasty Lil’ Rubber Paddle $28.95
Inexpensive

 

Buyer’s Guide To Collars

ToyTorture.com has always been sort of a reflection of my own play style and my own desires manifested in toys. As authentic and honest reviews at that approach might create the flaw of it is that I am missing out on entire categories of toys. Sometimes I get asked about these categories over and over. Chastity is one of them, collars is another. Since a collar is the strongest bondage device out there yet I am not really into them I decided at the end of the Heavy Bondage Special to give a short overview of the collars out there. Especially in the paragraph about the symbolism of collars I am making a lot of generalizations. Please do not feel offended if your individual perception is different but celebrate it as the diversity that is the heart of our community. After that I briefly talk about the different materials collars can be made out of. The last and main part of this article are showing different kinds of collars. I sorted the collars into two categories: The first are decorative collars which primarily serve a symbolic purpose and through their designed are not primarily designed to be integrated into play. The latter category are functional collars which are made to be played with.

 

The Symbolism of Collars

Collars have a strong symbolic meaning in the BDSM community. They are a sign that a person belongs to someone. It is common for top who wants to establish a deeper and long-term orientated relationship with a bottom to put a collar around his neck to show him and the world that the sub belongs to him and is no longer free. This act is called “collaring”. Being collard usually implies a interdependent relationship: The top promises to give the sub something usually guidance, protection and play in exchange for the subs devotion, obedience, trust and loyalty. Due to the powerful contract which a collar symbolizes it is a very special piece of gear which is treated unlike any other. Usually only the top is allowed to put it on and take it off, most of the time also only the top may touch it. Touching the collar of a sub without asking the top for permission is considered highly offensive and even hostile by some people. In some high protocol situations it is even forbidden to talk to a collard sub because you are violating the property of another top. Also in a high protocol environment it is not uncommon for subs to walk around with a collar around his neck but with an open lock. This is a signal that he is open for a top to collar him. Closing the lock just for fun or laughs again is offensive because the sub probably hopes to get at least some of the affection listed above from the persons who closed the lock.

Materials

Collars can be made of nearly every fetish material out there. Most common are leather collars. Because the material is skin friendly and to a certain degree can absorb sweat it is best for long term wear. Rubber and neoprene lack this quality so wearing it for extended periods of time can lead to skin irritation, especially when wearing a collar out of stiff industrial rubber without deburred edges on bare skin. The last common material to mention here is metal. I have seen collars being made out of all different kinds of metal. However I would recommend only ones being made out of stainless steel or aluminum because even when exposed to sweat they do not rust. Other metals like cooper or steel oxidizes. Because a collar through constant movement experiences some physical stress corrosion prevention applied to steel like chrome or zinc wears off and the collar can rust again. Of cause noble metals like gold or platinum do not rust but you have to be quite the posh kinkster to afford such a collar. Metal collars come in form of chain, chainmail, rings or steel cable. When it comes to chain you can choose between welded and forged chain. Welded chain industrial made and thus cheaper and has a deburred weldseam. Depending on the quality the deburration is not as good as it should be so there is a potential for scratches when wearing a collar. So before wearing it check the seams of there are not rough edges.

More uncommon materials I have seen collars made out of are braided rope, jeans cloth, bike chain and tires.

Decorative Collars

Chain

Probably the most common form of the collars and thus comes in various styles (p.e. from Mr S or Regulation). All have in common that they are closed by a pad lock which is mostly worn up front. The most common pattern is the anchor chain which is made out of round links which either come in long or short versions and in various thicknesses. Even when using a small pad lock the link size is usually so large that this kind of collar can’t be worn discreetly under a shirt. Depending on the personal style the chain can be worn longer or tight around the neck. The advantage of this chain is that you can easily attach things to the collar using pad locks or carabiners. Depending on the pad lock quality you can grab and pull the sub on this collar.

Mr S Yellow Colors Aluminum Chainmail Collar

Mr S Yellow Colors Aluminum Chainmail Collar

Chainmail

Chainmail is a material where small metal rings are linked together to form a mesh-like surfaces. Collars out of this material are lighter and smaller and thus more discreet than chains. Of cause they are also more fragile and should not be pulled on. A nifty feature of the Mr S Aluminum ones is that they come in different colors so you can use them a bit as a hanky. If you can a bit more weighted feeling try out the stainless steel one.

Torquator Collar

Stylewise somewhere between a chain pattern and chainmail this collar was originally designed to restrain dogs. So this collar is popular by dog players especially of wild ones. When pulling onto this collar please be careful because serious injuries can be the result.

 

Cable Lock

Another discreet option is the cable lock collar from Recon. The collar itself is made out of coated steel but since there are no moving links the coating will probably will not rub off keeping the cable from rusting. The two endings are made out of stainless steel with colored rubber accents so again you can show your favorite kink. Unlike the chainmail collar this one is also closed with a lock which has a great psychologically effect. The lock and the collar are small and discreet enough to be worn under a dress shirt during work yet to frail to be pulled on.

Rope Collar

If a closed look is too much of a statement or you don’t like the idea of metal around your neck (after all a collar is all about the headspace), Mr S came up with a rope collar. It is made out of black braided rope and closed with a leather strap and a non-locking roller buckle. If you ask the guys at Mr S nicely the can probably make you this collar also in other colors

Tolan Collar

This is basically an ergonomically shaped ring of steel around the sub’s neck. It is nearly seamless and rather sleek so it can be worn under a business shirt without showing off or attracting attention. Since it is made out of stainless steel it will not rust.

Jougs

I am not sure if to put jougs into this category or the play category because wearing them for an extended period of time is definitely a punishment! Jougs or iron collars are made out of piece of steel, sometimes lined with leather for additional comfort. They are closed by padlocks, integrated locks or screws. Sometimes they come with d-rings welded onto them for added play possibilities. Sometimes following antic models they already have cuffs for the hands attached or even also feet welded with chains onto them. Another version are double rigid irons for the neck and the wrists for real stress bondage.

The Heaviest Parus Steel Collar Weighing 8.5kg

The Heaviest Parus Steel Collar Weighing 8.5kg

The most sever iron collars I know off are made by Parus in Munich. I already wrote a Christmas gift tip about them last year. They are really well made, almost seamless with the integrated lock and so heavy that with some models I would like to recommend consulting your doctor about disc problems before putting them on!

Regardless of what kind of iron collar you are getting when shopping for a joug please watch for deburred edges otherwise severe abrasions can happen!

Functional Collars

Bondage collar

Another quite common type of collars (p.e. from Mr S or Regulation). They basically are like a cuff style restraint just larger to fit around the neck. So very often you can get matching collars to your existing restraint set. Being made for play they come with d-rings to attach the sub to thing or restraint to the neck. Depending on the individual style some are locking which adds a sense of bondage. A pro tip: If you want to fetter a large boot, p.e. an MX boot, and your restraint set’s ankle cuffs are too small try out a collar. Most of the time they are large enough and will serve you well as a boot restraint.

Fetters Posture Collar

Fetters Posture Collar

Posture collar

A posture collar (look at Mr S or Regulation) is a more intense form of the bondage collar. It is quite wide and usually padded, sometimes it also has an anatomically formed chin rest. The effect of this design is that tilting of the head and nodding is getting extremely difficult locking the head in one place. Usually such a collar will also have d-rings and there are locking versions out there.

Chocking Collar

More a breathplay toy than just a simple collar please use this one with caution! This collar is basically a latigo leather belt that is closed by a rolling buckle tightly around the neck. On the other side of the belt is a small metal loop with a roller feature through which the belt exits. In that end a d-ring is added onto which a leash can be attached. If you pull on the leash the collar will tighten and chock the person wearing it.

Shock Collar

Shock collars were originally designed to train dogs. Onto a nylon collar a remote controllable box with two electrode pins is attached. Usually this kind of collars come with different intensity settings. I implore you to take advantage of these different settings and don’t start out too high! The shock boxes are designed to train even dogs which have thick fur and skin. On human skin they can leave burn marks or even damage the nerve system! There are fetish versions out there which are not so powerful but being a power bottom and pain pig myself I can see the temptations of “the real deal” especially when it comes to dog play. Yet still please be careful. Not sexual kink is worth losing your health permanently.

Fetters Wrist-to-Neck Restraints

Fetters Wrist-to-Neck Restraints

Wrist to neck Restraint

Not really just a collar but the leather version of an iron collar with attached restraints. It is a leather lined locking collar onto which two locking wrist restraints are riveted. These rivets allow for some movement around its axis but otherwise the head has to go where the hand wants to be. Especially with added bondage mitts this will leave the sub quite helpless.

Collars Accessories

Especially with the raise of pup and dog play in the last couple of years collar accessories have gained popularity. Most commonly dog tags are used either in their original purpose to mark the dog and write his name on it. But I have also seen a bouquet of different colored tags as hankies. Of cause a dog needs guidance and sometimes restraining so leather leashes become quite popular.

Preserving the Burning Fire – On Outgrowing and Passing on Toys

S&M stands for sexual magic

– Patrick Califia

Passing on toys and gear has a long tradition in the BDSM and fetish community. One of the reasons for that is the concept of energy transfer during a scene. What happens during play is more than just the exchange of mental or physical force between the top and the sub. An intense connection between them is formed that consists out of more than the sum of its parts (If you are curious about this more spiritual aspect of BDSM I recommend the works of Marc Thompson or Joeff Mains). For some people this connection is the origin of headspace, for some the sole reason they engage in BDSM and certainly an intense, overwhelming and mind-shattering experience when you experience it for the first time.

The First Restraints I have ever bought: The McHurt Ihsan Wrist, Ankle and Boots Cuff and Hand Suspension Restraints

The First Restraints I have ever bought: The McHurt Ihsan Wrist, Ankle and Boots Cuff and Hand Suspension Restraints

The concept of energy exchange also includes that some of the energy of the players stays in their gear and toys. For that reason some pieces of gear or toys are special and dear to perverts and not easily parted with. Most often floggers, boots or bar vests are considered to be special in that way. In my case three pairs of McHurt restraints are that way. They were among the first things I reviewed for this website and liked them a lot. It feels, they have been with me forever. But when I looked up the order date for writing this article I was stunned: I had only bought them in early December 2011. Not even half a decade felt like a life time. This illustrates really well what they mean to me. All the fun, experiments, surprising experiences and intense emotions are somewhat bound to them. Yet as I matured as a kinkster I outgrew them. While I still stand to my 3 ½ year old review and consider them a good pair of restraints to start out with I want more: More padding, more D-rings, more build quality, more features. So I choose the Fetters Padded Locking Wrist and Ankle Cuffs from Regulation to replace them.

This evaluation process happened with some toys over the last year. I looked at them and realized I haven’t been using them in a long time; saw no real play scenario for them anymore so I sold them to friends, to strangers, to anybody interested. These restraints were different. They not only represent for me the scenes I had in them but also my getting serious about BDSM: Committing to my longings, considerably investing money in this part of myself and somehow giving my desires a physical representation. Yet despite all these arguments I decided to pass them on. As soon as I would get the new ones the old ones would become an exhibition piece. Laying in my toy chest, reminding me of good times and fond memories. But like an instrument not being played anymore, they would be a dead accumulation of matter, slowly fading away, losing all the energy stored in them. So giving them away just by chance was no option! They are too special for me to see them disappear out of my life. Ultimately I decided to give them to a young pervert who is slowly exploring his desires, being just like me 4 ½ years ago willing to commit to his dreams and turn them into reality. So these special pieces will continue to live on in the BDSM scene until he outgrows them and hopefully then passes them on to someone special just like I did.

As important as these restraints are to me I am lucky that I am not parting completely from them: The set I ordered back then also included a pair of boot restraints, large enough to even fetter MX boots. A toy I have not seen elsewhere yet and thus I am keeping it: For memory sake, for current play, for future times when this mythical and mind-blowing bond between top and sub manifests again.

Hail thee who play

– Michael McClure

Mr S Leather Bag Hood

_DSC2016

Mr S Leather Bag Hood

Vendor: Mr S

Construction

This hood is made out of six pieces of soft high quality black leather which helps to maintain the rough shape. It measures approx. 27cm by 33cm. The inside of the main body is lined with the same leather. The leather panel on the back side is not lined with leather but it is usually folded some way in order to seal the hood if the sub’s head is not gigantic. Besides this panel there are two eyelets through which a piece of leather string runs. You can use this string to close the hood tightly without constricting breathing. In the middle of the front of the hood there are two rivet-reinforced holes for breathing.

Detail of the Breathing Hole

Detail of the Breathing Hole

Playing with it

Despite appearing a simple piece of gear it is cleverly designed. The rather rigid part in the middle keeps the mask in place even when the sub breathes heavily so the hood doesn’t get sucked against the face of the sub. This is important for the main purpose I have been using this hood for: A beginner isolation hood. I tend to suffer from a bit of claustrophobia and thus stayed away from too intense hoods (until I saw myself forced to try them out for this website). As intimidating as this hood might look it fits loosely on the head without any pressure. So despite taking away the sense of sight (with most heads the breathing hole are next to the mouth so the noose blocks out most of the light) there is no sense of pressure that might freak a beginner out. Of cause the isolation feeling can easily be intensified with adding ear plugs or putting a Bishop Head Harness over the bag hood. If doing so pay attention that the breathing holes are not covered.

Detail of how the Hood is closed

Detail of how the Hood is closed

Even if they are not blocked, this mask has some form of breath play capabilities. When resting or being tied down, the sub can breathe easily. As soon as you start to talk or breath heavily to process pain there is too little air sucked in so a sense of breathlessness kicks in. I have never experienced that the oxygen supply was getting critical when using this hood yet it is something to watch when playing. If you are concerned about suffocation or usually play pretty heavy I guess the guys at Mr S can add another pair of breathing holes. Since the hood is made out of the high quality Mr S leather, when you are encapsulated in this hood every breath of air brings the intoxicating rich smell of leather to you.

Conclusion: Simple yet very effective hood
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Easy to use Have to watch oxygen supply in long scenes Mr S $139.95
Great isolation sensation without being to intense
Very well made

 

  • 9ee6292c41ad2ef691c9e90a8a7a2b8a

    9ee6292c41ad2ef691c9e90a8a7a2b8a