Twisted Monk Rope Kits

The Twisted Monk Started Kit including the Safety Shear and DVD

Vendor: Mr S (USA) or Regulation (EU)

A lot of people ask me on advice where to get quality rope, especially after reading my Bondage Hardware Special on Rope. Living in Germany, I know a couple of places here. Obviously that does not help most of my readers. So last year I got myself two sets of Twisted Monk rope which is sold internationally.

Construction

Today I am taking a look at the Twisted Monk Hemp Rope. While they do also offer cotton and polyester rope as well as exotic materials like bamboo or silk, hemp is the material of choice for many rope bondage tops because it is strong and the knots don’t travel once tightend. However, getting hemp rope ready to play is an annoying process: In order to make it soft and flexible to hug the sub’s body and minimize rope burn, you have to boil the rope, dry it under tension and run it multiple times over an edge under tension (for example through a carabineer). All Twisted Ropes are pre-treated so they are very soft and flexible for usage straight out of the box.

Comparison of 6mm (Red) & 8mm (Black) Rope

The rope is twisted out of three strands right-handed (or S-twisted) like most modern rope. It comes in three sizes: 4mm for genital bondage, 6mm for most purposes and 8mm for suspension bondage. While 6mm rope creates smaller knots and thus you can go further with the same length, 8mm might be good for your if you are doing a lot of demos or take videos or pictures because the rope has more presence on the sub’s body. The ends are whipped using strong yarn to keep the strands from unraveling. There is about 4cm of rope before the whipping. I prefer to keep it because the slightly unraveled end makes the ends easier to grab but you can cut it off if you prefer a neat and tight end.

The Contrast of the Crimson and Black Contrast

Twisted Monk offers rope in eight colors: Natural, black, a bright green, a lightly tealish blue, violet, grape which is actually burgundy, crimson which is a bright red and raspberry. The colors are solid and even, really vibrant and do not bleach out even after many washing cycles if you stick to the washing guidelines. However, what really disappoints me is the fact that only the ropes are dyed and not the individual strands are colored-through. Especially at the loose ends before the whipping and on tight knots the natural color shines through. While this may sound like pedantic bean counting, it disappointed me because Twisted Monk claims to be the best rope in the world and I have seen less expensive, pre-treated hemp rope in one of the German stores where I shop which ahs been colored-through.

I have bought two kits of rope: The Starter Kit which consists of one 10m and two 3m lengths of 6mm rope (which I got in Crimson) and the Robust Kit with one 13m and two 5m lengths of 8mm rope (which I got in Black). Each Twisted Monk kit comes with a safety shear (you can’t have enough of those), a card on rope maintenance, a card with safety advice and a DVD with some basic rope bondage layouts.

Detail of the Whipping

If you want to learn more about which kind of rope is right for you, take a look at my Bondage Hardware Special on it.

Playing with the Rope

Today, there is actually not much to say about how to play with. Rope offers infinite, creative way to create sexually and/or aesthetically pleasing setups which can but don’t need to be elaborate. It is really not difficult to learn ones way around the ropes. Two or three knots, some knowledge of human physiology, memorizing the dos and don’ts and common sense are enough. To learn these basics and get some inspiration, I have assembled some recommendations on reading and video material at the end of the Bondage Hardware Special.

Detail of how the Strands are not Colored-Through

To choose which set to get depends on what you want to do. Simple ties like handcuffs or fettering a sub to a bed don’t require much more then 3m per joint. Depending on the bottoms physique, 10m is enough for simple body harness. So the Starter set is a really a good starting point to start ones journey into rope. As the designs more elaborate, you can always expand your rope collection. Personally I prefer combining the two sets of mine: Take the 8mm black rope for the basic “structure” and tie in the 6mm red for delicate details. The black makes the red really pop for a striking contrast.

Conclusion: High quality ready-to play hemp rope.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Pre-treated for softness and out of the box fun … which are not colored-through Mr S Starter Kit $64.95
Mr S Robust Kit $89.95
Tightly whipped ends to prevent unraveling Regulation Starter Kit £64.99
Vibrant colors… Regulation Robust Kit £94.99

Square Pegs Acorn

Toy Properties

Form: Butt Plug
Material: Platinum Silicone
Colors: Supersoft Bronze, Supersoft Graphite & Firm Black
Firmness: Soft; does not collapse when standing up
Lube: Water, Oil
Cleaning: Soaking in hot water with dish-soap than use sanitizer
Safer Sex: Clean and sanitize it thoroughly
Storage: Store either standing in a well-ventilated place not touching other toys to prevent damaging the toys

 

The Square Pegs Acron Size L

Vendor: Regulation (EU) and Mr S (USA)

Construction

Just like their iconic Egg Plug, Square Pegs‘ Acorn is shaped like the object it is named after, in this case the nut. The round tip is a bit a bit blunt blends into a steep slope. At the end of the slope, there is a little bulge which adds 4mm to the heads maximum diameter. Below it, the body tapers into a short neck. At the bottom there is a long and narrow base.

 

Size Diameter Bulge Diameter Shaft Head Length Overall Length
S 69mm 48mm 102mm 162mm
M 76mm 54mm 102mm 162mm
L 80mm 54mm 102mm 162mm
XL 89mm 65mm 80nn 140mm

Playing with the Acorn

Detail of the Bulge

The Acorn is not for “nice” anal play. Through the blunt tip and steep slope it is made to be put into already well opened up ass with loose sphincters. The sensation of the plug being pushed into the ass is a bit like being fisted with clenched fist. The mass and size of the large head makes it the right toy for greedy fist bottoms who need a break but feel empty after extensively being played with. Just use the Acorn as a pacifier for their sphincter.

Once inside the anus, the bulge applies pressure on the prostate. To increase the stimulation, twisted the plug, more or less vigorously fuck the bottom, apply a magic wand or fist punch against the base. The base is slim enough to fit between the ass cheeks yet large enough to allow for a comfortable and secure grip when fucking.

This being said, the Acorn is made for active play instead of passively wearing it over extended periods of time. The neck is too short for the sphincter to really close around it so the bottom has to actively clench the muscle to keep it from falling out if not lying down. Through the dull shape the intrusion is always felt a little bit aggressive to there is a naturally urge of pushing it out. If the sphincter is relaxed enough to not feeling the effect, there is no way the plug is staying in on its own.

Detail of the Bulge and the Size Indication

Where to buy?

The SquarePeg Acorn can be purchased at Regulation London between £99 and £129 or $99.95 and $139.95 at Mr S Leather depending on the size. Both stores only stock the Supersoft Bronze (the iconic color of all SquarePeg toys) variety but can order the Supersoft Graphite and Firm Black if mentioned in the order notes.

 

 

 

Oxballs Cock Lock

The Oxballs Cock Lock

Vendor: Mr S or Regulation

Construction

The Oxballs Cock Lock is basically a sheath for a soft dick. The tube for the dick is approx. 120 mm long and has a diameter of 35 mm. At the front there is a round hole measuring 8 mm to release piss or (pre)cum. Being made out of Oxballs’ signature FlexTPR it can be twisted and stretched while putting on. It is available in many colors: Clear, black, yellow, clear red and clear blue.

The opening hole and the perpendicular hole for the balls are slightly reinforced, acting a bit like a cockring. Though, if you are not extremely well endowed like me, adding one of their many cockrings or ball stretchers can enhance the feeling.

Detail of the Piss Hole and the Ball Hole

Playing with the Cock Lock

Like with almost every sophisticated Oxballs junk toy, the big question is: How to put it on? The methods which worked best for my testees and me was pulling the tube apart, pull it over the dick as far as possible, then reach through the piss hole and pull on the foreskin until the sheath fits completely. Finally, put the balls through the lower hole. I would not recommend using lube for putting it on. Inevitably the lube will leave the tube and the dick, making the entire toy and fingers slippery and without proper grip, it is almost impossible to put it on.

Obviously this toy is a piece of fetish gear. Depending of the color is draws attention to the dick and increases the bulge under soft, stretchable materials like lycra or rubber. Materials with low stretch like leather will compress the soft material too much.

The Oxballs Cock Lock Equipped with the Funnel

From a more functional point of view the Cock Lock is an “attention focuser”. It puts a barrier between the hand and the dick. So in situation where the bottom should not jerk himself off (for example when getting fisted) but restraining the hands is unpractical (because he should huff poppers), it prevents manipulation of the dick, focusing him on the other induced sensations. A chastity top I know uses it to get his subs used to the feeling of something being constantly around their dick. While the material will somewhat rein in dicks trying to get hard, especially long dicks will push through the piss hole. This characteristic in combination with the fact that you can’t lock the tube onto the dick disqualifies this toy to be an effective long-term chastity device beyond being a mental reminder not to cum.

Detail of the Piss Lock’s Funnel

The Cock Lock is the basis for two other Oxballs toys: The Piss Lock Urinal Cage comes with an aluminum funnel which can be attached to the silicone tubes used to connect vacuum pumps to cylinders or Oxballs own tubes to connect the dick to a matching butt plug or the Chomp gag. The Shocklock features an electrode in the funnel’s shape with a 4mm banana socket. The funnel is quite fun for piss pigs though the diameter is rather small so if the piss pressure is too high, the liquid will leak out of the cage. The electro version is a monopole so you need a counter electrode encouraging the top’s creativity. The most devious setup I experienced was placing the counter electrode on the perineum just above the prostate so the currency flows directly through two sexual body parts with high nerve ending density aka the glans and prostate. If the sub’s soft dick is small, the e-stim version can be used to punish him: As soon as his dick grows large enough to touch the electrode, it will shock him until it goes soft and small again. As an added feature both versions of the aluminum caps prevent the dick from pushing through the piss hole.

Conclusion: Unique dick toy which keeps the sub’s focus on the important sensations.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Prevents jerking during scenes Does not really work for chastity Mr S $47.95
Regulation £44.99
Unique feeling around the dick Difficult to put on
Makes a hot bulge

Kinkonomics – Sex Toy Pricing

Last week sex toy pricing was twice the topic on Twitter: British gay sex shop Clonezone announced a sale up to 75% which lead to a little shit storm because people felt they Clonezone would generally overcharge them. Later this week, Twitter user DiggerPup responded to my review of the Mister B Nipple Claws that you could get the barrels off eBay as diamond prongs for around £3.50 instead of the £30 Mister B charges for the sex toy. Since both topics are somewhat related and the topic of sex toy pricing is a constant one in my reader questions, I decided to blog about it today.

The Iconic Mr S Store on 8th Street in San Francisco. Maintaining such a big presence in a high-rent area is expensive.

Running a business creates a lot of costs beyond the purchase price of the goods sold: Rent, insurance, capital costs, wages, income and value added taxes and many more. When the business manufactures own goods, the prices for workshop equipment, defective work and research & development also needs to be priced into the product price. If you are a multi-channel retailer (which means running an online and a brick & mortar business at the same time), your prices have to have a mixed calculation: Being competitive towards other online retailers, being the same offline and online and still covering the costs of stationary stores (for example store rent in the gay district which – especially through gentrification – is generally higher than the rent in an industrial estate).

While all retails have to cover these costs, kinky products come with the same challenges as luxury goods: They are not essential needs but part of the self-actualization so among all the other purchase possibilities they generally speaking rank amid the lowest in priority. Furthermore, once bought, the likelihood of purchasing a similar good again soon, is low compared to other products. So all the costs mentioned above need to be covered by products which are not bought often and are marketed to a niche.

For that reason, the profit margin of most kink products compared to luxury goods which ranges between 60% and 150%. This sounds like a lot, but if you take off the value added tax (in percentage points!) and take into consideration that the average receipt is relatively low because the most common purchases are cockrings, nipple clamps and lube, the profit is not that high.

The S10 Hooded Gas Mask: A good example how Labor and Material Costs increase the Price of a Pervertable

So, how does this relate to the two opening examples? First let’s talk about the Clonezone sale. The initial tweet readUp to 75%”. The word “up” is important. I went to webpage linked in the tweet on Jan 21st at 6pm and the average discount over all offers was 26.11%. At an average cloth retailer you will get a bigger discount rate at an end of season sale. Looking at the profit margin from the last paragraph and taking into consideration the VAT, the products are not that outrageously overpriced as the 75% discount would imply but priced margin-wise in the neighborhood of average department store or luxury products.

The Mister B Nipple Claws are actually a good example to illustrate why kink products are not as overpriced as they first might appear. If you wanted to make your own Nipples Claws you would need two diamond prongs which cost £9 including shipping and chain and the two bails for approx. £2. The labor time for drilling, deburring and soldering will take about 10 minutes which will cost approx. £4. So a self-made Nipple Claw would cost you £15 – not including tool depreciation and maintenance costs, the labor costs for purchasing the materials and the hypothetical costs of defective work. Taking into consideration scale effects, the Nipple Claws will have a purchase price for Mister B of £10. But Mister B is not only a multi-channel retailer, but also a wholesaler. They need to price their products so they can sell it to other retailers with a profit and they must be able to make a profit covering all the costs of their own business.

The Mr S Four Buckel Restraints and Bishop Head Harness. Two of the probably most knocked-off Piece of Bondage Gear.

While I am on the subject, I want to address a third aspect I often get asked: Why are toys from Bad Dragon, Square Pegs or Oxballs so expensive? Why buy the original products from Mr S or Regulation when there are cheaper version of them from Asia on eBay?

  1. Raw Material Price: Premium sex toy maker use premium, but thus more expensive materials. Silicone for example needs a catalyst which can be the inexpensive metal lead. But for humans, lead is an highly toxic material so body-safe products should use the catalyst platinum which naturally is more expensive. Most leather from Asia is dressed in a way which does not satisfy European or American safety standards. Potentially dangerous chemicals and processes are used among which the Chrome-6 allergy is the most common yet the most “harmless”. Since most leather pieces designed for BDSM are worn on the bare skin, these chemicals are more easily absorbed through body warmth and sweat than when the leather is used to make a cheap leather jacket which has a cloth lining.
  2. Liability Risks and Customer Loyalty: The potential harm through cheap raw materials is only one part of potential liability risk. When selling bondage gear for extremer scenes like suspension, the production quality has to be so good, that an avarage piece being sold must be able to good enough to satisfy safety requirements even when assesed in court.
    Because established companies have become a brand of their own. The customer expects a certain level of product quality. Otherwise through the small size of the kink community, a bad reputation quickly spreads which can easily get a company into big economic troubles. This kind quality control causes higher costs through more thorough manufacturing, quality testing of samples or all products and higher cull.
  3. Lack of scale effects: Most kink products are not made in large quantities. A type of bondage gear is usually only manufactured two or three pieces at a time because the capital tie-cost would be too high to produce them in bulk and just store them. Through the large number of different color and pattern options, firmness degrees and extras, each Bad Dragon toy is individually made. Despite the basic technique of making leather or polymer toys is the same, there is no real chance of gathering much experience making the individual model so there are only little scale effects (for example increased manufacturing speed and reduction of defective work).
  4. The Prototype of the Mountain Drake Dildo, submitted by user Xan to the Bad Dragon Labs

    Labor costs: These companies are usually located in the western world and there in areas with high living costs like London or LA. Through social security systems and generally high living costs than in developing countries, the labor costs of skilled craftsmen like leather tailors are considerably higher causing higher product prices.

  5. Research and Development: The more elaborate the product, the more complex the design process is going to be. For example: Oxballs uses 3D printer to rapid prototype their new toys, Bad Dragon has an entire community dedicated to product design, not to talk about how difficult it is to create a sowing pattern for ergonomically designed bondage gear. All these efforts to design new products costs time and thus labor, sometimes required special equipment (3D printer, CAD programs, etc.) and expensive raw materials.

I know that sex and kink toys are expensive and that there are always more toys a kinkster wants than he can afford. But I hope this little blog entry illustrated well why the products we perverts yearn for are most of the time worth the price in the store.

Oxballs Slung

The Oxballs Slung

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

This toy is basically a triangular ball stretcher with added features. The stretcher is 35mm high and hole through which you put your balls has a diameter of 32mm. The material thickness at the sides is 11mm. The corners are heavily reinforced. There are holes in the middle of the reinforcements in which non-locking carabiners are housed. Their material thickness is 5mm and they measure 50x24mm.

The Slung is made out of Platinum Silicone which means it is hypoallergenic and while being somewhat flexible stiffer than the FLEX-TPR Oxballs uses on other products.

Playing with the Slung

Despite calling the Slung “a ball stretcher” it really works like a parachute. The carabiners are there to have things attached to them. Either weights or – for even more fun  – restraints. I usually attach each wrist or ankle restraint to one of the carabiners and the third to some form of head gear. The more the sub struggles, the harder his balls get tugged.

Detail of the Carabiner Housing

When I first considered buying this toy, I was skeptical if it could work. Knowing how easily my other Oxballs toy stretch for easy handling, I believed that you could easily pull the Slung off balls. But well, it doesn’t. I had a real CBT aficionado over who suspends kilograms of weights from his balls and we attached 8kg to the Slung and let is swing without a problem. It actually works a bit better than a traditional parachute. With leather ones the balls can shift so that the parachute slips off. But the  silicone’s strength and stiffness stretches the sack tightly, keeping the balls in place. This sturdiness in combination with the high material thickness makes the Slung good for ball busting. The nuts stay in place (and furthermore can be tied in place using the carabiners) and the wide rim makes a good contact surface when they get hit. For this kind of play I recommend turning the carbiners parallel to the Slung.

Carabiner Orientation for Ball Busting

However, the stiffness is also a problem when putting it on. You basically need three hands: Two to pull the strong silicone apart to make the hole larger and a third to reach for the balls and pull them through. If you have really strong fingers and are dexterous, you can tie off your balls tightly using other TPR stretchers and maneuver them through on your own while pulling the stretcher open. Also, unlike leather parachutes, the size of the Slung’s hole is naturally not adjustable. So if you have really tiny balls, you will just slip through it.

Being made out of platinum silicone it is quite easy to clean after play: Wash it in hot soap water, let it dry and spray sanitizer on it. Since silicone oil will disintegrate the material, keep silicone lube away from it. Also, silicone attracts dust like almost nothing else.

Conclusion: Unique form of parachute which works better but is a pain in the ass to put on.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Sits more securely then traditional parachute Extremely difficult to put on. Regulation £44.99
Three different attachment points Not for people with small balls

 

Padded Posture Collar

The Regulation Padded Posture Collar

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

The actual collar is a piece of leather which is roughly anatomically shaped to follow the jaw line on the top and create a support around the sternum. The minimum width of the collar is 100mm so it is quite restricting through its sheer height. Onto the collar an anatomically shaped rest for keeping the chin from moving is riveted.

All pieces are made out of stiff bridle leather so it is really restricting. The edges are burnished and dyed so despite the stiffness the collar is comfortable to wear (leaving out the stress bondage aspect). Regulation calls this collar “padded” and technical I have to agree: Below the soft garment leather lining there is a thin, stiff layer of foam padding. However it is far from the lavish padding on their other premium bondage equipment. Thicker padding would actually compromise the purpose of this collar because it would give in to movement limiting the restricting aspect.

Detail of the Posture Collar’s Anatomic Shape

The collar comes in two sizes: M for a collar circumference between 37cm and 46cm; L for between 45cm and 51cm. It is closed by two 32mm wide leather belts with roller buckles and is equipped with three D-rings: one in the front and one on each side.

Playing with the Posture Collar

As the name of this piece of bondage already tells: It is designed to keep the head in a certain position and it does it really well. Of cause there is a little room for movement because leather is not steel and even the strict riveting allows for a little wiggle room. However it is the most strict posture collar I have come cross yet thus it is fitting gear for stress bondage. And while it is comfortable to wear over extended periods of time through the great production and material quality, keep in mind that forcing any limb or joint to remain in one position for extended periods of time will make it go stiff. This in combination with the head being rather heavy requires a lot of attention and support when taking the collar off the sub’s neck. Otherwise something similar to whiplash can happen.

Detail of the Rollar Buckle and the Custom Locking Posts

The three D-rings are ideal for “traditional” bondage positions: Attach a leash to the front one and wrist restraints or bondage mitts to the side ones. A handler friend of mine gives his dog elbow and knee pads, fetters his legs with the Fetters Heavy Hogtie Set, clip the bondage mitts to the posture collar and leads his K9 around this way for a more intense animal play headspace. Another top friend of mine attached short leashes to the side D-rings to have something to hold onto while face-fucking his boy who could not turn his head away.

Detail of the Burnished and Dyed Edges and the Padding

Especially on Tumblr I have seen pictures of people incorporating this posture collar into (rope) bondage layouts to completely immobilize a sub. While this collar is good for keeping the sub’s head from moving, the rest of the bondage layout should be equally tight or even tighter. Otherwise the sub might be able to get up and strangle himself.

When I ordered my collar I had it custom made with added locking posts. Especially when it comes to such an intense piece of (stress) bondage gear, hearing the locks lick and the inescapability sink in is a big mindfuck! If you are interested in that option, simply write it as a comment in the ordering process.

Conclusion: Very well made and very strict (stress) bondage collar.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Reliably keeps the head from almost moving at all Off the rack without locking posts Regulation £149.99
Very well made with attention to detail out of high quality leather
Three D-rings

 

Fetters Ball Gag

The Fetters Ball Gag

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

The ball is made out of a hard silicone and has a diameter of 48mm. It is connected to the leather straps through two solid tubes which have a diameter of 13mm and a length of 23mm. They end in two rectangular pieces which are riveted onto the leather straps. They are made out of high-quality bridle leather and have burnished and dyed edges. Through a roller buckle the length can be adjusted between 45cm and 60cm.

Detail of the roller buckle

Playing with the Fetters Ball Gag

Through the reviewing process of gags I found two types of gag users which I like to call bounds and biters. The bounds enjoy the feeling of something solid in their mouth. They want the feeling of their mouth being in bondage and thus a too soft material isn’t doing the trick. Biters on the other hand have a more practical approach: They enjoy the functional value of a gag (like silencing or drooling) but when they want to sink their teeth into something that gives in. This gag is definitely for the bounds, keeping the mouth open.

Detail of the tubes responsible for comfortable extended wearing

Through its size the ball encourages a lot of drooling. Since the rather thin, small tubes sit in the corners of the mouth rather than a leather strap like on other ball gags, this gag is very comfortable to wear for extended periods of time. The diameter is on the larger end of the ball gag spectrum so especially for people with a smaller mouth having the ball gag put into their mouth is a bit of “stress” bondage. The strap is unusually long for a gag so it fits even subs with a large head or with a thick, open mouth hood fettered onto the head.

Since the ball is made out of silicone it is easy to clean and disinfect which is necessary between scenes because it will be exposed to large amounts of saliva. After play simply wipe the ball dry and spray it with your favorite sanitizer. Don’t forget to wash the ball afterwards to clean off sanitizer residue; it is something you do not want in your sub’s mouth.

Conclusion: Comfortable ball gag for heavy drool scenes
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Comfortable to wear for long periods of time Only one size Regulation £34.99
Long strap allows the gag to be put even over very thick hoods
Easy to clean

 

ToyTortures Top 10 Toys: Fetters Handlock

Front of the Fetters Handlock

As I have already written in this series I like toys which are innovative, designed well and stimulate creativity and the play instinct. The Fetters Handlock scores on all three accounts.

Fettering both hands together like a ridged handcuff does seems to be a natural toy design. The more it is surprising that nobody else but Fetters thought about it. Being made by the iconic British manufacturer it is well made like all their toys (but the little bit of foam which can be seen at the edge of the holes punched for the straps), crafted out if soft, high quality leather which just smells great. With its thick padding the Handlock can be worn in long scenes. So when you put a padlock through the locking posts you can be certain they are going to stay on for a long time. I generally like locking posts because they add a big psychological element of inescapability. What I like even more than locking posts are D-rings. The more the better because each one is an anchor point for bondage.

Detail of the Locking Post and the D-Ring next to the Roller Buckles

The Handlock has five of them so the bondage possibilities are almost endless. I have used the restraints for a hogtie (they also fit around the ankles), in combination with a (bulldog) harness as a shoulder to wrist restraint, for restraining the hands above the head, connecting it to a parachute or a ballstretcher as a wrist to ball restraint and incorporating it into rope bondage. Just to name a few.

The Fetters Handlock costs £109.95 at Regulation London. To learn all about it, read my in-depth review.

Episode 1: Mr S Bishop Head Harness

Episode 2: ErosTek ET232

Episode 3: E-Stim System Electrodes

Episode 4: DeTails Flogger Set

Episode 6: Sheets of San Francisco

Episode 7: Oxballs Ball Stretcher

Episode 8: Doxy Die Cast

Episode 9: Mr S Ultra Blindfold

Episode 10: HML Fetish Bondage Harness

Square Peg Pegger Extractor

Toy Properties

Form: Butt Plug
Material: Platinum Silicone.
Colors: Supersoft Bronze, Supersoft Graphite & Hard Black.
Firmness: Soft; does not collapse when standing up.
Lube: Water, Oil
Cleaning: Soaking in hot water with dish-soap than use sanitizer.
Safer Sex: Clean and sanitize it thoroughly
Storage: Store either standing in a well-ventilated place not touching other toys to prevent damaging the toys.

Vendor: Regulation

The Square Peg Pegger Extractor

Construction

The Pegger Extractor has the typical shape of a butt plug with a roughly egg shaped head and a large base which keeps it from involuntarily getting sucked up into the ass. I am reviewing the size L which I have bought in firm black. The head is 115mm long and has a “core” diameter of 75mm. All around the head there are ridges increasing the maximum diameter up to 88mm. The ridges are round and thin so depending on the material firmness they more or less easily give in when being pushed in. The neck is 45mm long and has a minimal diameter of 52mm. The base of the toy is pentagonal which makes it great to grip even with lubey fingers.

Playing with the Pegger Extractor

Detail of the Heavily Textured Tip

Due to its ridges this is not a toy to start out your play with even when you are an experienced ass pig. I recommend pre-stretching up to at least 80mm diameter (I prefer a size L Acron for this) for the size large. Even when pre-stretched well taking the Extractor is still a (hot) challenge. The ridges stimulate the nerve endings of the sphincter while the added friction of their shape enhance the stretching sensation. With the supersoft silicone taking it up the ass feels like a gentle, flapping massage. With the hard silicone it is an intense, yet horny struggle so I recommend this material for the more masochistic ass pigs. However if you approach it carefully and slowly let the sphincter adjust to the unusual shape it will eventually open up to be fucked with the Pegger Extractor. If you do this often the ridges of the Pegger will facilitate the blooming of a rosebud.

Detail of the Ring of Ridges at the Bottom of the Head

There is a ring of ridges just above the neck. This perpendicular edge works like plug which seals the sphincter and keeps the plugs from being pushed out easily. Despite the heavy texture the Pegger Extractor is quite comfortable to wear for extended periods of time. However pulling it out after some time, the sphincter will not be tender anymore and the lube having flown off the head which makes it a challenging task.

Overview of the Color Option: Acorn L in SuperSoft Bronze, Pegger Extractor L in Firm Black and Splitter M in SuperSoft Graphite

When choosing the size please consider the heavy texture. Even when you can take an 88mm diameter plug the Pegger Extractor will still be a challenge. Since the ridges are perpendicular even well lubed up they will hinder smooth insertion. If you have problems relaxing the irritation caused by the ridges will make the sphincter tense up quickly. So it I recommend to choose a smaller size if you want to engage into aggressive play like fucking with the Pegger Extractor.

Where to buy?

The SquarePeg Pegger Extractor can be bought at Regulation London for £59 for the size M or £89 for the size L. Regulation does only stock the Supersoft Graphite variety. If you want a different color, simply write the color in the order comment and they will order it for you.

 

Fetters Heavy Leather Hogtie Set

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

The Fetters Heavy Leather Hogtie Set

The Heavy Leather Hogtie Set consists of a pair of modified Fetters Padded Leather Thigh Restraint, a pair of Padded Locking Wrist Cuffs and an Elbow Strap. All pieces are made out of high quality leather, thick soft padding and stainless steel trim. The set comes without pad locks. If you want to lock the restrains the shackle diameter of the pad lock should not be larger than 3mm.

The core of this set is a modified version of the Fetters Padded Leather Thigh Restraints. As all restraints from their padded & lockable range are basically made the same way: An 8cm wide cushion of thick padding covered with soft leather is sewn onto a wide strap of bridle leather. Onto this a belt with a roller buckle and a locking post is riveted. Usually each restraint is equipped with two welded D-rings.

The lowest circumference the thigh restraint can be adjusted to is 42cm; the largest is 71.5cm with a padding gap of 11.5cm; largest circumference with padding all around the thigh is 54cm and the largest circumference and still being able to lock is 67cm with a padding gap of 7cm. Next to the locking post there is a welded D-ring. 15cm away from the D-ring a Padded Locking Ankle Cuff (which I reviewed here) is riveted with its two D-rings being perpendicular to the rivet. Since only one rivet is used the cuff can turn to allow for different bondage positions. Another difference to their standard Padded Thigh restraint is that they have replaced the second D-ring with a stainless steel loop which has a width of 38mm and a height of 8mm. Through this loop the belt of the Padded Locking Wrist cuffs (which I reviewed here) can be threaded to attach the wrist restraint to the thigh one.

Detail of the Wrist Restraint attached to Thigh Restraint

For an even stronger bondage experience an elbow strap comes with the set. The basis of it is a 13.5cm long and 8cm wide octagonal piece of two bridle leather layers which are sewn together. In the middle there are two roller buckles with a locking post riveted onto the body.  In front of each buckle a slot is punched through which a leather belt with unburnished sides is threaded. This belt is 118cm long and 3cm wide. It features 7 holes on one side and 29 holes on the other side which allows for fine adjustment.

Playing with the Hogtie Set

To put these restraints on it is best when the sub lies face down so the top can easily move the limbs to put them into the corresponding cuffs. Each buckle is far away enough from the wrist restraints to prevent the sub from opening the roller buckles. If you want to be extra sure each restraint is lockable which adds a lot of mental bondage sensation. Once fettered you can choose between four different bondage positions: The traditional lying face down, lying face up, kneeling or sitting on the ass. Since sitting up requires a lot of muscle strength this position is a bit of stress bondage. Lying face up is equally stress bondage but great for CBT or an extreme form of gut punching – even with low intensity punches. The thigh restraints quickly became popular with a top friend of mine in kneeling position. He used them in combination with the Handlock (which I reviewed here) to restrain the hands above the head with the thigh-ankle-combination effectively preventing the sub from standing up.

Minimum and Maximum Diameter of the Thigh Restraint

The most traditional position is obviously lying with the face down. In this bondage layout mouth and ass are still accessible but (if the top is strong ort the sub light) you can still move the sub around. Besides face fucking most testees used the hogtie for impact play. With the ass exposed (and if you are not fettering gymnasts the feet unable to cover the ass) and the restraints covering the sensitive area of the upper thigh this layout is great for spanking. Especially if you want to administer bastinado I recommend locking both ankle restraints together using a small shackle. This will effectively limit the movement even more. When you want to create a stress bondage position add a head harness or a muzzle and connect the top D-ring to the shackle. In this layout I would not recommend inducing too much pain because heavy movement can lead to neck or spinal injuries. Of cause this layout can be used for lighter play like sensation play or – if you are not afraid to get lube on the leather – fisting.

I am a bit hesitant to recommend using the elbow strap. It is a great piece of bondage gear which can increase the sense of being bound quite a lot – also in other bondage layouts. But the construction is killing it for me. With the edges being unburnished, at best they are just sharp and uncomfortable. But if the sub moves a lot it can cause abrasions. In order to make this part of the toy useful I am actually considering having movable padding custom made like on the thighs on the suspension harness.

Detail of the Buckle of the Elbow Strap and the Unburnished Belt

Besides hogties this set can be used in many different other bondage layouts. If the added ankle cuffs don’t bother you the thigh restraint can be used to fetter down upper legs. To attach thicker rope or carabineers to the metal loop, simply use a shackle to add a larger anchor point. When the sub doesn’t have to small hands the ankle cuffs can be used to restrain wrists to the thighs. However this does only work if the bondage layout is either standing up or lying with the ankles also fettered. Otherwise there is a chance the sub can simply slip off the thigh restraint. On testee even used the restraint for pup play: He gave his puppy knee and elbow pads, connected the ankles to the thighs and the wrist to the collar and thus forced his sub in an even more dog-like position. However I do not recommend this form of stress bondage for extended periods of time since especially the elbows are not made to support such weight.

Conclusion: Unique and clever restraint set with one disappointing element.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Unique layout Finishing of the belt makes elbow strap unusable Regulation £248.99
Comfortable through thick padding
Very well made – except elbow strap
Locking
Plethora of D-rings

 

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