Anal Toys 101

Finding the right anal toy and keeping it in good shape so it lasts for a long time can be a bit of a challenge. In this 101 I talk about what to consider when buying an anal toy and how to care for it properly.

Buyer’s Guide to Anal toys

There are many aspects to consider when choosing an anal toy. Especially when you are buying your first one and have not developed personal preferences yet, giving each aspect some thought is a good idea because a good anal toy is quite an investment. But if chosen wisely will bring you fun for years to come.

Material

Deciding out of which material your new anal toy is going to be made is the first step when choosing it because the material properties impact many relevant aspects of anal play.

Material composition

This is the most important aspect of choosing a toy. In the old days before EU regulations and custom testing imported goods, toys which I would not have recommended to put up your butt were widely available!

The inside of your colon is basically one big mucosal that will happily absorb whatever the lube (especially water-based lube) washes out of the toy’s material. Thus I recommend only purchasing toys which are manufactured in the EU or USA where dangerous plasticizers like phthalates or lead as a catalytic agent for silicone are forbidden. Just to be safe look for the label “Platinum Silicone” or “Phthalates Free” when choosing a toy. At the end of Buyer’s Guide there is a list of manufacturers I personally source from if you want a recommendation.

Lube

Not every lube can be used with every material. Some lubes will actually cause to disintegrate your toy. Thus depending on your lube preferences you have to choose the toy material.

The following chart shows which lube can generally speaking be safely used with which material. Of cause individual material composition can lead to unexpected effects. If you want to err on the side of safety only use water-based lube.

Water-base Lube Silicone-Base Lube Hybrid Lube Oil/Fat-Base Lube
Silicone X X
PVC/ Vinyl
Rubber X
TPR (✔) (✔)
Other hard Plastic
Wood
Glass
Metal

The Square Peg Charlie Horse Wiggly in Supersoft Bronze from Regulation

Firmness & Surface Smoothness

While glass, metal and wood are always hard, the plastic ones come in different degrees of firmness. With the latter group the thickness is also influenced by the thickness. The thicker a toy the harder it will feel.

Which degree of firmness is good is depends on the usage situation. For training your ass a softer toy is better because it adjusts a bit to the sphincter. For wearing a toy for an extended period of time a harder material is better because the sphincter will adjust to the form of the toy which is more comfortable in the long run. Also with hard surfaces the likelihood of skin folds and thus a pinching sensation decreases.

The firmness also impacts the structural integrity. The firmer the toy the easier it will stand up by itself. This is especially important then you want to ride or sit on a toy. If it is too soft, it will collapse.

Furthermore the surface structure is important. The smoother the surface the easier the toy glides in and the easier it will be to clean.

Pervertables

A quick word on pervertables: There are wooden, metal and glass objects which are not made for anal play but are being used for it, most prominently baseball bats or batons. Before inserting them into your rectum make sure they are deburred and 100% smooth! Especially which with wood it is imperative that is has a sanded and treated surface! Getting a splinter into your colon is always a reason to rush to the ER! As for glass objects, especially vases and bottles: Keep them out of your ass! The glass used to anal toys is a special type of glass that almost never breaks and glass anal toys are always solid. The injuries caused by shards of broken glass inside your rectum can be lethal!

The Bolder Stoll Doll from Regulation

Toy Form Factor

There are two major form factors: Dildos, which are compared to their thickness relatively long shafts with a tapered ending for easier insertion, and plugs, which are shorter and between the maximum diameter and the base taper again so they can stay inside the butt.

Dildos

Dildos are probably the oldest sex toys humans invented. Stone penises as old as 28.000 years have been excavated. They induce a friction sensation on the nerve endings inside the sphincter while sliding in and out and at best hit the prostate. Depending on the glans’ shape there can be some stretching sensation.

Dildos come in two varieties. The first one are realistic dildos. They mimic the penis shape of humans, animal or anthropomorphic beings. This means the shaft is textured with veins which intensify the friction and thus the sensation. At the bottom end most of the them feature a base shaped like balls. The second variety are shape dildos. They are bullet or torpedo shaped and lack natural texturing.

The Square Peg Depth Probe from Regulation

Somewhere between dildos and plugs are shape dildos which consist of a series of bulges. The most extreme form of this form are anal beads. They are a series of balls connected by a string or a tubes which are inserted into the ass and then slowly pulled out. Of cause these toys aim to create a stretching sensation rather than a friction one.

A special form of dildos are so call depth trainers, also commonly called colon snakes. They are long (at least 35cm long), made out of flexible materials and don’t have much texture; a depth indication scale at most. They are designed to seduce the second sphincter to gradually open up to prepare for deep fisting.  Since this sphincter is not used to physical stimulation and unlike the anus can’t be relaxed purposefully, training it takes some time. So don’t rush it!

The Oxballs Pig Hole Deep from Mr S

Plugs

The shape of a butt plugs is best compared to the bottom half of a sand clock. From the tip they gradually increase in diameter and then – depending on the plug – either taper again or go directly into a short neck which is attached to a base. Through the gradually increasing diameter the main sensation of plugs is a stretching one.  So plugs are good to slowly accustom to and train the sphincter to a certain diameter.

A special form of plugs are hollow or tunnel plugs. Their outside form is like a butt plug but instead of being solid they have hole in the middle. Through the opening in the middle the tip is dull. So even if you can take the maximum diameter of the plug you might not be able to take it or only after a long pre-stretching. The hole is useful for many things. Through it lube or other liquids can be poured or the closing function of the sphincter can temporarily be taken away. The plug also protects the nerve endings in the sphincter from friction. Thus hollow plugs are especially useful in combination with depth trainers. Such plugs shield the anus from the friction sensation allowing the bottom to focus on what is happening at his second sphincter. When the tunnel plug is made out of a stretchy material (and is large enough) it can be used to fist through it making a formally too small interesting again or put it over a standard butt plug to increase its size.

With the increasing popularity of pet play there is a growing market of tail plugs. Instead of a base an appendix mimicking the look of an animal’s tail (most common are dog and pig tails) is attached to the plug’s body.  When choosing a tail keep two things in mind: Don’t buy a too small plug section because if it slides in too easily it will also slide out easily causing you to lose the tail when walking or wagging. Furthermore the mass ration between the plug and the tail should not be too much off. The center of gravity should be at the plug otherwise there is also the danger of the tail popping out easily. Tails are also popular with switchers not into pet play. When fucking somebody the tail will develop an momentum which is transferred to the plug section which than stimulates the prostate.

Finding the Right Size & Form

The following factors determined first if you will be able to take the anal toy and second how much you will enjoy it.

The Domestic Partner Crack Attack from Regulation

Maximum Diameter

Usually 3cm to 4cm is a good size to start out anal play. As you progress to bigger toys I recommend going up in steps of 1cm to 1.5cm increased maximum diameter. This is enough of a challenge yet you get the satisfaction of conquering the toy after a couple of days to weeks depending on how thoroughly you train. I know that this is costly by trying to get a toy in for weeks and always failing is very frustrating!

Slope

The slope of a toy defines how quickly the diameter from the tip on increases.

Even though the sphincter at the anus can somewhat voluntarily be relaxed it still is a muscle humans cannot control completely. It needs to be seduced to open up and in order to establish a certain training level actually carefully (!) stretched like every other muscle. Thus generally speaking steeper slopes are better because they allow the sphincter to open up more gradually. Especially when you are a novice stay away from toys with large dull tips because it will just press against the sphincter and it won’t open up. But even with a well-trained ass you will encounter toys that diameter wise are not really a challenge yet you won’t be able to take due to a weird slope. Sadly there now way to know before the purchase with which toys this is going to be the case so please be prepared for one or two useless purchases.

At butt plugs there are two slopes to look it: First the one before the maximum diameter which I just talked about. The second one is the one behind it. It defines how easily the toy comes out again. When you want to train your sphincter a steep slope is preferable. Once inside you can slowly fuck yourself with the plug, enjoying the stretching sensation. If you want to wear the plug for an extended period of time a duller to non-existing slope is preferable because it makes involuntarily popping out more difficult. However please keep in mind: When keeping a plug in, the “warm-up” effect of pushing it in slowly fades so seducing your sphincter to open up and release the plug becomes increasingly more difficult when keeping it in for long.

The Square Peg Happy Hour from Mr S

Position of Widest Diameter

Especially when you progress in training the position of the widest diameter becomes an important aspect to keep in mind. If you stick with a steep slope and increase the diameter the location of the maximum diameter moves further away from the tip so you have to insert more length for the maximum stretch. Since the colon is a quite small body cavern you might not reach the neck or even the maximum diameter. From a psychological point of view this is bad when training because inserting a toy completely fills you with a sense of accomplishment and giving you an opportunity to rest. This is usually a boost of eagerness to train further. Constantly failing on a plug is quite demotivating.

Texture

The texture describes the surface of a toy beyond the material properties (see: Firmness & Surface Smoothness). Since texture increases the friction of a toy it makes the insertion more difficult. So a textured toy with a diameter you usually take easily might not fit afterall.

In the section about natural dildos I have already briefly talked about natural texturing. They comprise of veins, the molded glans and foreskin and when we look at anthropomorphic toys scales, etc.

Detail of the Convex Shape and the Heavily Textured Surface of Apollo the Chimera

On shape dildos and plugs these three texture patters can be found (in ascending order of intensity): Groves, bumps and ridges. Which form delivers the best sensation is very individual. But a good rule of thumb is: the higher the texture is risen the stronger the stimulation. This of cause means that these toys are meant for play when the hole is already relaxed and well played with so it is not about the stretching (sensation) but about teasing the nerves in the sphincter. Please keep in mind that this form of play can wear out an ass quickly so be prepared for the scene to end rather sooner than later.

Extra Features

Sometimes toys come with extra features for a more intense or varied play. The most commonly found extra are sucktion cups. They enable you to temporarily securely attach the toy to a smooth surface (tiles are best for it) using vacuum. This is nifty feature when you really want to ride at toy so it doesn’t slip away.

For training the sphincter or creating a feeling of being stuffed without being able to take large diameters inflatable toys are useful. Once inserted you can pump them up in order to increase the diameter. I recommend buying only inflatable toys with a solid core for easier insertion.

Detail of the Base with Suction Cup Feature

A less commonly found feature are cum tubes. At the tip of the toy there is a small opening onto which a tube is attached. At the end of this tube is a syringe filled with a cum like lube. If you pus the end of the syringe the cum is getting splashed into the colon simulating an ejaculation. As nifty and unique as this sensation might be, a cum tube makes cleaning and drying of the toy more difficult.

For added stimulation some anal toys feature a vibrating function. When you are using quite hard toys this sensation can also be achieved by pressing a magic wand against the toy’s base. Another added stimulation is e-stim. Please refer to my in-depth review of e-stim plugs here for more information.

Personal Recommendations

This is a highly subjective, certainly not complete list of brand and retailers where good anal toys can be found. From these I source my anal toys from because I trust them for their product safety and quality.

Caring for your Anal Toys

Cleaning & Safer Sex

From a Safer Sex point of view a toy should either be used only by one person or covered by a condom. While the first is unlikely if you are having an active “social” life, the latter is unpractical as soon as it comes to toys larger than an L size penis. So cleaning the toys the right way is essential.

To clean your toys after play fill the sink with water between 40°C and 50°C, add dish soap and let the toy soak for approx. 15 minutes. I recommend using dish soap without perfume or lotion because these additives are bad for rubber and some PVCs. If you have used very thick water based lube add salt to break down the lube. At the soaking scrub the toys with a soft brush and rinse the soap water off. As a first step of sanitizing fill the sink again with hot water, add vinegar-based cleaner (possibly organic because you want to shove the toy up your butt again) and let it soak for a quarter of an hour. The acid in the vinegar will also deal with most of the unpleasant smells. Rinse the toy off and let it dry. Finally spray the toy with a sanitizer. The agents in the sanitizer can make glossy surfaces dull so you might want to try it on the base where the blemished surface is inconspicuous.

With some materials other means of sterilization are also possible once the lube has been washed off.  Metal toys can be flamed or autoclaved; the latter is also possible with high quality silicone toys.

A common question is how to deal with discolored toys. Sadly this effect is irreversible and simply comes with ages of plastic toys. To avoid it, buy only black toys.

Storage

In order to have long lasting fun with your toys keep some simple storage rules in mind. Always clean the toys after using them. The lube or body fluids otherwise can foster chemical reactions which might harm the toy. The storage place should be dry and well ventilated especially when you are storing toys from different manufacturers or made out of different materials together. The toys must never touch! The different plasticizers used by different manufacturers and materials can cause the toys to dissolve when touching or the air being filled with them. If the process started (an area getting sticky or gooy) it is too late. Sadly the process is irreversible and sooner than later you have to throw away the toy. Especially soft toys should be stored upright (or in case of depth trainers loosely rolled up) otherwise they might get permanent creases.

Mr S Fetters Locking Bondage Collar

Vendor: Mr S

The Mr S Fetters Locking Collar

The Mr S Fetters Locking Collar

Construction

This collar is the matching one to the restraints I reviewed a couple of weeks ago. The basis of the collar is a sturdy bridle leather body. Onto the body a folded, 6.7cm wide piece of soft garment leather is sowed so the collar can be worn for extended periods of time without feeling uncomfortable. On the Fetters version instead of the double layer leather there is padding lined with soft garment leather.

Onto the body the bridle leather belt is riveted. The length and holes right until the first rivet allows for circumference between 30cm and 54cm. The belt is closed with a roller buckle for easy handling. Behind the buckle there is a locking post to lock the collar onto the sub. There are four solid, welded D-rings hold in place by the rivets.

The Mr S version is available in black, grey, rad and blue while you can get the Fetters model now in eight colors from classic black and grey up to vibrant green.

Detail of the Roller Buckle and Locking Post

Detail of the Roller Buckle and Locking Post

Playing with the Toy

Like I wrote in article about collars this category of toys fulfils two purposes: The first is showing to the world belonging and attachment. Being so comfortable and well made I have friends who wear this collar almost all the time when they are not in the office. This collar is just wide enough to be noticeable and thus remind the sub that he belongs to someone else yet narrow enough not to be annoying and thus interfering with his tasks. The locking post adds a great psychological momentum because the sub is not able to take the sign of the submission the top has put on him off.

Detail of a D-Ring

Detail of a D-Ring

From the play perspective what sets this collar apart is the number of D-rings. With four there are ample possibilities to attach the sub to furniture or other objects or the other way round attach things to the sub. Keeping in mind that anything that pulls on the neck can strangle the sub the collar can be incoorperated into numerous bondage layouts. A D-ring is a good place to attach rope for elaborate rope bondage layouts. On a lazier and more stressful side of things four D-rings are just enough for a very intense hogtie using ankle and wrist restraints.

Conclusion: Comfortable and versatile bondage collar
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Very well made Mr S $77.95
Locking Regulation £74.99
Four D-rings

 

Oxballs Pig-Hole

Toy Properties

Form: Tunnel Plug
Material: Silicone
Colors: Black and Red
Firmness: Medium; does not collapse when standing up.
Lube: Water and Oil based. Silicone or hybrid lube can destroy the toy!
Cleaning: Soaking in boiling water with dish-soap than use sanitizer.
Safer Sex: Expose to boiling water to kill germs
Storage:
Store standing up in a well-ventilated place not touching other toys to prevent damaging the toys.

Vendor: Mr S Leather (USA) & Regulation (EU)

The Oxballs Pig Hole

The Oxballs Pig Hole

Since I started reviewing anal toys the Oxballs Pig-Hole hollow butt plug was one of the toys I got the most questions about so I was more than happy when Uberkinky sent me a review sample of the XXL version.

Construction

The Oxballs Pig-Hole hollow butt plug is as the name says a tunnel plug. It starts out with a  very large base so it does not accidently disappear into a greedy ass. From a tapered neck the plug expands into a barrel shaped body and narrows for the opening  again. The end is a bit slant so you have a bit of a “tip” when inserting the toy into the ass.

The inside of the barrel shaped body has some grooves for added stability. The toy is currently available in five sizes for almost every experience level.

Size Largest Diameter Smallest Diameter Internal Diameter Insertable Length
Small 5.5cm 4cm 3.2cm 7.6cm
Medium 6.5cm 4.9cm 3.8cm 8.9cm
Large 7.1cm 5.5cm 4.1cm 10.2cm
XLarge 7.7cm 5,7cm 4.4cm 11.4cm
XXLarge 8.4cm 6.5cm 4.78cm 12.7cm
Folding the Oxballs Pig Hole for Easier Insertion

Folding the Oxballs Pig-Hole for Easier Insertion

Playing with it

The most difficult thing with the Oxballs Pig-Hole is how to get it inside the ass. Despite the grooves especially the sizes on the fisting side collapse rather collapse than be pushed into the ass. The method is use is to roll and fold the plug as shown in the picture, insert the compact package and let is deflate inside the ass.

Once inside the Pig-Hole is one of the most versatile ass toys I know. The fact that it gives in more easily than a solid plug makes it good for training the sphincter to relax more easily. Simply pull out the plug a bit, enjoy the stretch the plug’s body induces and let the ass suck the plug in again after a while and try again. Another way of training is wearing the plug for an extended period of time. The soft material and flexibility will allow the sphincter to shift the plug in a comfortable position while still stretching it. In order to avoid accidents I recommend using a diaper or a stopper plug with the Oxballs Pig-Hole.

A more or less forcefully open ass of cause is ideal for a lot of more or less evil activities. When you take a size with an internal diameter just a little bit smaller than the top’s dick the tightness of the Pig Hol- will feel like plowing a virgin’s ass. The grooves inside the body furthermore add stimulation. Some testees even used the Pig Hole as a masturbation toy. Naturally an open hole invites liquids to be poured into like lube or piss.

Detail of the Grooves Inside the Oxballs Pig Hole

Detail of the Grooves Inside the Oxballs Pig-Hole

When it comes to fisting the Oxballs Pig-Hole is a very nifty toy. The stretchiness of the material in combination with the size of the internal diameter of the XXL version allows a hand up to a glove size 8 to be pushed through the opening. This has two benefits: First, there is not friction on the sensible mucosa of the sphincter which can cause unpleasant feeling. So the fisting scene can go on longer. This lack of friction is also useful when you engage in depth training with according toys. Since there is not friction (sensation) you can fully focus on relaxing your second sphincter. Of cause you can turn the plug inside out to torment the sphincter even more (for an even more intense torment I recommend the Oxballs Finger Fucker I reviewed some weeks ago). Second if your regular fist partner’s hand is your current training level, adding a few millimeter of material thickness can spice up that width training again.

Where to buy?

The Oxballs Pig-Hole can be bought at Mr S Leather for prices between $56.95 – $98.95 resp. at Regulation for £44.99 to £69.99 depending on the size.

 

Oxballs Finger Fuck

Vendor: Regulation

The Oxballs Finger Fuck

The Oxballs Finger Fuck

I have rarely seen a toy creating so much buzz and selling out so quickly almost everywhere like the Oxballs Finger Fuck. So when Uberkinky asked me if I would like to review one for them I was quite excited.

Construction

The Oxballs Finger Fuck is a glove with approx. the European male glove size 7 and comes in black, red, blue and transparent. Being made out of Oxballs super-stretchy FLEX-TPR Oxballs Finger Fuck will fit almost every hand size; people with glove size 6 up to glove size 13 used the toy during the testing process. In order not to damage the toy please put it on careful and don’t force it too vigerously on your hand. Better pour some lube into the glove and swirl it around and adjust each finger separately for a snug fit. Another big advantage of the FLEX-TPR is that is it safe to be used with any kind of lube. Though for putting it one I recommend silicone lube because it is very viscose and won’t become sticky over time.

Detail of the Middle Finger

Detail of the Middle Finger

What sets this toy apart from other fisting gloves is the texture. While the palm area is covered with a shallow bubble pattern each finger is covered with a different pattern. The lower half of the thumb features lower profile bubbles like the palm, the upper half is shapes a big like a honey spoons with ridges running around a barrel which has a maximum diameter of 33mm. The forefinger features stronger raised bubbles. The top middle finger is shaped like a small dildo with a maximum diameter of 27mm on which’s top the glans is slightly coming out from under the foreskin. Around the ring finger a double helix runs. And the little finger’s texture looks like tire tread.

Detail of the Thumb

Detail of the Thumb

Playing with the Toy

Primarily the Oxballs Finger Fuck is a toy for anal play. The different patterns will stimulate the nerve endings of the sphincter in very different ways. When you have two Finger Fucks fucking the ass with two different fingers alternating will drive most subs over the edge. What is a bit difficult is using the ring and little finger individually because with most people the muscles of these fingers are too weak to fight against the draft of the stretchy material. The relatively small size (ultimately depending on the finger size of the wearer) makes it great even for beginners and experienced fistees enjoyed the teasing of the loose hole.

Speaking of fisting: Here the Oxballs Finger Fuck really shines. The material thickness makes the fister’s hand bigger yet especially for experienced bottoms this is part of the thrill. For one testee the Finger Fuck solved the problem of his experience level outgrowing the top’s hand size. Once inside the different patterns are again the piece de resistance – either when playing with the prostate or the second sphincter when it comes to depth play.

Detail of the Ring Finger

Detail of the Ring Finger

Besides anal play this toy is great for any form of sensation play. Gently running the different patterns across the sub’s skin can create quite interesting reactions. On the more CBT side of sensation play teasing the frenulum or the bare glans can drive a sub crazy, especially when he is uncut. Some testees liked the feeling so much they bought the toys and use it for jerking off. Because the Finger Fuck’s material is a bit sticky I recommend using silicone lube when engaging in such play.

Once used you simply can clean it with hot water and dish soap and spray sanitizer on it. I recommend drying it upright put loosely on top of a plastic bottle so the inside can also dry. While technically only disposable gloves are fulfilling safer sex standards when it comes to fisting, like cock sheath I can’t really see how any disease transmission can happen when the Finger Fuck has been thoroughly cleaned between being used on different partners.

Conclusion: Unique fisting and sensation play toy.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Unique design A bit difficult to put on Regulation £42.99
Wide range of different sensations Little and ring finger difficult to be used individually
Easy to clean and when done so substitute for disposable gloves

 

Mister B All Black Bernhard

Toy Properties

Form: Textured Dildo
Material: Phthalate-free vinyl made in the EU.
Colors: Only Black.
Firmness: Medium; does not collapse when standing up.
Lube: Water, Silicone, Hybrid, Oil
Cleaning: Soaking in hot water with dish-soap than use sanitizer.
Safer Sex: Vinyl has a porous surface so even after thorough cleaning if you want to be a 100% sure, put a condom over it or use it only on one partner.
Storage: Store either standing up or lying down in a well-ventilated place not touching other toys to prevent damaging the toys.

Vendor: Regulation

Since I started reviewing anal toys a new group of readers has come to ToyTorture.com. Welcome to my pervy little project. I hope you enjoy what I am writing about when it is not about anal play. And maybe I spark your curiosity to venture out a bit in the interesting and diverse world of kink. But one of the questions I get the most from the new readers is why I always review such enormous toys. Its because these are the toys I own but I same somewhat smaller toys so this review is partly for the aspiring novice partly for the real fist connoisseurs.

Mister B All Black Bernhard

Mister B All Black Bernhard

Construction

The All Black Bernhard starts out with a conical tip. The top is 22mm wide and almost dull and expends up to 55mm over a length of 55mm. The shaft is textured with ribs of different width of heights leading to a diameter which increases from 44mm just below the tip to 59mm at the bottom. The last 4cm of is has no texture but is a little bit convex so it can work as a grip if you don’t have too lubey fingers.

The overall length of the dildo is 27cm. Since there is no base be a bit cautious when playing enthusiastically with it. It nearly disappeared in one of the testee’s rectum.

Playing with it

Ok, I have to admit, I lied a bit in the intro text. This toy is not really for the novice but for the little bit experienced. The dull tip makes it a bit hard to seduce an untrained sphincter to open up. But when you can take toys with a diameter up to 40mm you should be fine. The gradually increasing diameter of the “glans” is good to train the sphincter up to taking 55mm. Slowly (!!!) riding the shaft will accustom the sphincter to closing and opening up again. Taking time, relaxing, feeling the effect of the subtle ribs is a good training for relaxing the sphincter purposely. This skill is important when later switching to larger toys or even fists. But don’t get carried away by the awesome feeling too much and ride the toy more and more vigorously because with an untrained ass which is stretched to the max. this can lead to injuries.

Detail of the Grooves and the Glans Like Tip

Detail of the Grooves and the Glans Like Tip

Speaking of fisting: What is a danger for the novice hole is really hot for the well-experienced one. At the end of a fisting scene when the sphincter is really relaxed you can pick up this toy and work the ass over with it HARD. The ribs will stimulate the nerve endings for a unique experience. Be advised that the physical and stimulation stress can wear the bottom out fairly quickly so I recommend using this toy when the scene is almost over or in short intervals so the fistee begs for a relaxing fist as a break from an overwhelming stimulation.

Where to buy?

The Mister B All Black Bernhard can be bought at Regulation for £19.99.

Fetters Padded Locking Wrist & Ankle Cuffs

Vendor: Regulation & Mr S

Fetters Padded Locking Restraints for Wrist and Ankle

Fetters Padded Locking Restraints for Wrist and Ankle

Construction

Both restraints are made in a cuff style: There is a piece of padding which goes around the joint which is fettered with a strap. The padding is a thick and soft piece of foam lined with soft leather. Onto the outside of the padding a piece of bridle leather which is a bid narrower than the padding. So even when the sub struggles heavily there is padding over the leather’s hard edges. The bridle leather piece is also only approx 4/5 as long as the padding leaving a part of it free the fold down for a secure fit even if the sub really has small wrists or ankles. Through the padding and onto the bridle leather piece the bridle leather belt is riveted. Four rivets hold the two D-rings, the locking posts and the roller buckle in place.

The belt on these restraints are long enough with holes punched close enough to the rivet that they can accommodate small to really large wrists and ankles. When you are on the larger end of the circumference spectrum there will be a space without padding which did not bother all testees.

Minimal Circumference Maximal Lockable Circumference Maximal Not Lockable Circumference
Wrist Restraints 10cm 24cm 32cm
Ankle Restraints 15.5cm 27cm 35.5cm

When I first got the restraints I was a bit puzzled by a rather large “wave” on the belt between the central rivets. It turns out that once you put the restraint onto a sub the padding follows the curvature of the wave so the belt does not get stretched! This attention to detail shows on the entire toy: The stitching is flawless, the D-rings are welded, the leather smells and feels like good, sustainably tanned leather is supposed to. In terms of customizing you just recently got the choice of black and white for the strap and a choice of 8 different colors for the padding to match your fetish gear.

Detail of the Lavish Padding

Detail of the Lavish Padding

Finally, a word on the Mr S restraints. The restraints I am reviewing are the ones from Fetters but I have played with the Mr S ones several dozen times in the USA. So I can assure you that in terms of quality and functionality they are no different than the ones from Fetters. The only difference is that you can “only” choose between black, grey, red and blue lining for the padding and that the straps are only available in black.

So a bit like with the ErosTek power boxes: When you are living in Europe, go for the ones from Regulation, when you living in the USA go for the ones from Mr S.

Playing with it

Detail of one of two D-Rings, the Locking Posts and the Roller Buckle,

Detail of one of two D-Rings, the Locking Posts and the Roller Buckle,

What sets these restraints apart from others is really the padding. It is so lavish, lush and soft that once broken in and fettered in a secure position there is no feeling of being restrained at all. It is only when the sub starts to struggle that the he feels that behind the pillowy veneer is a merciless, heavy duty restraint keeping them in place even when he fights hard! For that reason I like these restraints a lot for heavy scenes with a very active sub because the fragile joints are well protected by the thick padding. Because they are not that noticeable these restraints are great for subs who want to know they are fettered but are not comfortable (yet) with the tight feeling of a restraint around the joints. Being so comfortable I had several testees using them while sleeping. Since the initial bondage feeling is not quite there I recommend locking the belts slowly one after another so that the sub can hear the clicking sound and realizes that without the key they are not coming off.

Once it comes to tying someone down these restraints are made for complex bondage layouts. With two D-rings with a width of 37mm per restraints there are enough attachment points for elaborate bondage setups.

There are matching collars available: A padded one from Fetters and a non-padded one from Mr S which I will be reviewing in a couple of weeks.

Conclusion: Restraints comfortable enough to be worn 24/7 yet strict enough to power out even an extremely fighting sub.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Lavish padding for comfortable wear and exceptionally joint protection Padding could be a bit longer Fetters Wrist Restraints £79.99
Fetters Ankle Restraints £81.99
Mr S Wrist Restraints $139.95
Extremely well made out of high quality materials with attention to details Mr S Ankle Restraints §149.95
Two D-rings per restraint
Lockable
Lots of color customizing options to match favorite fetish gear

ErosTek ET302R

Vendor: Mr S (North America) or Regulation (EU)

The ErosTek ET302R E-Stim Power Box along with the Remote Control

The ErosTek ET302R E-Stim Power Box along with the Remote Control

Construction

This power box is quite small measuring only 96mm x 61mm x 26mm. It is made out of sturdy black plastic which has an abrasive surface but on the top for better grip. On top the program numbers with the corresponding names are printed with fluorescent ink so after letting the device sit in light a bit you can read which program is which number even in the dark. On the bottom there is the battery compartment for 9V block batteries. All important functions are found at the front of the box. There are the two 3.5mm jackets with channel A on the far left and channel b on the far right. Left from the middle is a double digit nine-segment display with red LEDs, right from it is mono microphone and the power button.

This power box is controlled using a small remote control which measures 72mm x 34mm x 14mm. It features a small carabineer on the lower left corner so you can attach it to a lanyard. In order to exchange the battery you have to unscrew the bottom of the remote control. On the top there are four buttons numbered 0 to 3. Under each button it says what the button does resp. what holding button 0 or 1 down and pressing 2 and 3 will do. On the far right side of the remote there is another red LED which flashed when you press a button.

The box comes with a detailed instruction book and two 3.5mm to 4mm banana plug leads.

Playing with the Toy

As with all E-Stim boxes the sensation experience by the sub depends on a number of factors like which electrode is used where on the body. So the description of the individual programs can only be a rough one.

Program Name Number Induced Sensation
Basic 0 On-Off stimulation with both channels overlapping a bit.
Waves 1 Raising and falling stimulation with Channel B raising while Channel A is going down.
Stroke 2 A bit like wave with raising and falling stimulation with Channel B rising while Channel A is going down yet the speed and intensity changes over time.
Rhythm 3 On-off stimulation with one channel being strong and the other being softer. The stronger channel will increase in intensity to a peak and will start over.
Random 4 Random stimulation in pattern and intensity. Sometimes a channel gets switched off for a period of time to let the nerve endings recover.
Audio Soft 5 Even soft noises get transformned into stimulation on both channels. Best used in a quite environment otherwise the stimulation is continuous.
Audio Loud 6 Quieter noises are ignored and only louder ones produce stimulation on both channels.
Training Levels 1 – 3 7 First select the intended intensity in the Basic program. If you press button 1 a short burst of this intensity is fired. With button 2 a longer, more intense burst is fired. With button 3 an even longer, more intense burst is fired. If you keep button 3 pressed the intensity will grow stronger every second the button is pressed!
Training Ramps 1 – 3 8 First select the maximum intensity in the Basic program. When pressing buttons 1 to 3 the intensity slowly builds up until the selected intensity while 1 is the slowest and 3 is the quickest build up.
Training Signals 1 – 3 9 First select the intended intensity in the Basic program. Each button from 1 to 3 create unique pattern in roughly the selected intensity.

With this box you can only select a program for both channels. There is no way to select a different program for channel A and channel B. When playing for extended periods of time the box will shut down if it hasn’t received a command in 30 minutes resp. 120 minutes if in one of the training modes (number 7 to 9). So especially in long term scenes regularly increase the stimulation a bit. This is also good general advice because the nerves adjust to the stimulation so a constant stimulation level is felt less intense over time.

Detail of the Control Panel of the ErosTek ET302R

Detail of the Control Panel of the ErosTek ET302R

When I first got this box I have to admit the way of controlling it scared me a bit with double and triple function keys. Being more of a bottom who in a nutshell has to explain a potential top how the device works I was a bit discouraged. However As already written the control layout is printed on the remote control and after having used the box four times I knew intuitively which button to press for what. The red LED display works great in all environments with when starting telling the battery level and the corresponding left or right bottom LED flashing when a channel is firing.

This box is even smaller than the ET232 I reviewed last year so it is even better for travelling. The drawback is that you can’t manipulate the programs so you are basically stuck with the stimulation that comes out of the box (don’t get me wrong! The stimulation the box delivers is awesome!). But what this box lacks in adjustability it wins in flexibility being remote controlled. On an open field the range of the remote control is approx. 30m, inside a building depending on the number and material of walls up to 15m.
Having the controls detached from the box creates a big mindfuck. The sub never knows when the stimulation will kick in and in what intensity. So many scenarios are possible: From the sub laying bound alone in the playroom to going shopping when suddenly the e-stim kicks in and the sub has to get a hold of himself. The latter scenario works especially well with the training programs. I know numerous masters who trained their slaves to perform different tasks depending on which signal is fired. Complete remote control though takes a bit of mental effort at the side of the top who needs to know in which program he was on which level in order to operate the box without the display. Yet again, with a bit of training this works really well.
Especially when visiting big events or play parties I highly recommend changing the channel on the box (How to do this is very well described in the manual). Most people don’t bother to do so and I have heard of cheeky people walking around at big events like IML with their remote set to the standard and pressing buttons hoping a box in a training mode on their frequency is waiting for a command…

Detail of the Battery Compartment of the ErosTek ET302R

Detail of the Battery Compartment of the ErosTek ET302R

The fact sheet says that the ET320R has 60 micro coulombs per pulse versus the ET312b which has 80 micro coulombs per pulse. Of cause when it comes to stimulation more is always better but the small box is definitely powerful enough to make you cum, scream or beg for more.  Speaking of fact sheets: I have talked to people who have owned their boxes for nearly a decade and being an electronic device it will sooner or later have some issues. They have ensured me that with a little technical knowledge and talent this box is easy to repair; the manufacturer ErosTek has recently launched a spare part section on their website to it can now be repaired with original parts. However: I have to strongly urge you to only let a true electrical engineering expert repair this box because malfunctions can cause serious harm or at best unintended and unwanted unpleasant stimulation!

Finally a word of warning for people wanting to order it inside the EU: All Erostek devices I have seen so far are lacking the CE marking which is a requirement for a device being sold in the EU. Several friends of mine had their Erostek device being confiscated by custom officers in several different countries when ordered directly from the USA. Best and safest way to get an Erostek device into the EU is either ordering it through Regulation in London or purchase it when visiting a country outside the EU and bring it with you personally (even though theoretically it can be confiscated by custom at the air port).

Conclusion: The smallest and most flexible remote controlled electro box out there.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Powerful Programs can’t be manipulated Mr S $399,95
Fun Programs Same program on both channels
Remote controllable Regulation £399
Very small
Good value for money
Easy to repair

 

Mister B Dark Crystal Large Tounguebiter

Vendor: Regulation

The Mister B Dark Crystal Large Tounguebiter

The Mister B Dark Crystal Large Tounguebiter

Material

This dildo is made out of phthalate-free vinyl and comes in either black or clear. It is made in Belgium so it has to stick to the strict EU regulations regarding product safety so it is safe to use without a condom (as long as it is only used by one person, see below). Since like all vinyl toys it has to use some form of more or less volatile plasticizer, store the toy in a well ventilated area where it does not touch other toys so they don’t damage each other. Straight out of the wrapping it does not smell bad, just when you get your nose close to the toy you will recognize the usual vinyl smell. Firmness wise it is on the softer side of vinyl toys yet it stands up straight when resting on the base.

Being made out of vinyl you can use any lube with it, e.g. water- or silicone-based ones, hybrid lube or fat like Crisco. Cleaning the toy is easy: I soak my toys for half an hour in water that is so hot that I can just touch it and add dish soap. Any hotter water will damage the vinyl. After that I let it dry and spray a sanitizer on it. This procedure should kill most germs but compare to other materials vinyl has a porous surface. So if you want to be a 100% safe when using this toy with other people, put a condom over it.

Detail of the Glans-Shaped Top and the Bumps which cover the Shaft

Detail of the Glans-Shaped Top and the Bumps which cover the Shaft

Shape

The basic for of this toy is the one of a traditional dildo with balls forming the base. The inside of the base is a bit dome-shaped so due the softness of the material, it works like a strong suction cup on smooth surfaces. The balls are large enough to comfortable hold the dildo especially when a second person is using it on the bottom.

The dildo’s top is glans-shaped with a diameter of approx. 45mm. After a small recess the shaft starts out with a diameter of approx. 45mm and increases in size up to 57mm. The length of the shaft including the glans is 235mm. All over the shaft there are approx. 6mm high round bumps.

Playing with it

This toy is definitely not for the anal novice. The glans is rather dull so you need to be either experienced or somewhat pre-stretched to easily take it.  While the shaft it not too big the bumps make taking it a bit of a challenge if you are not fistable. Yet they are the feature which make this toy interesting. The sphincter is one of the body areas with the most nerve ending so when riding this dildo the bumps stimulate the nerves and force the muscle to relax in small areas. To really enjoy this ride don’t force it in or ride it to vigorously right from the beginning, otherwise you might damage your sphincter or the mucosa of your rectum.

Detail of the Base with Suction Cup Feature

Detail of the Base with Suction Cup Feature

But not only on your own is this dildo fun, with a partner it gets a whole new quality. While lying down and relaxing, purely focusing on the sensation of the bumps teasing your nerves the partner can challenge the bottom with speed and depth in a sensible way causing exciting and hot agony. I love this toy in the middle or the end of a fisting scene. While the sphincter is relaxed enough to take the toy, the bumps really tease the from the fisting already sensitive nerve ending. With another person on charge twisting the dildo adds a new tantalizing sensation. When doing this a word of warning is in place: This can become so horny that you can easily overexcite your sphincter and the nerves so heavy play with this dildo is not recommended when you have another fisting scene in the next couple of days.

The Mister B Dark Crystal Large Toungebiter can be bought at Regulation for £38.99 either in black or in clear. There is also a shorter version out there with fewer bumps on the shaft that costs £34.99 and is also available in black and clear.

Buyer’s Guide To Collars

ToyTorture.com has always been sort of a reflection of my own play style and my own desires manifested in toys. As authentic and honest reviews at that approach might create the flaw of it is that I am missing out on entire categories of toys. Sometimes I get asked about these categories over and over. Chastity is one of them, collars is another. Since a collar is the strongest bondage device out there yet I am not really into them I decided at the end of the Heavy Bondage Special to give a short overview of the collars out there. Especially in the paragraph about the symbolism of collars I am making a lot of generalizations. Please do not feel offended if your individual perception is different but celebrate it as the diversity that is the heart of our community. After that I briefly talk about the different materials collars can be made out of. The last and main part of this article are showing different kinds of collars. I sorted the collars into two categories: The first are decorative collars which primarily serve a symbolic purpose and through their designed are not primarily designed to be integrated into play. The latter category are functional collars which are made to be played with.

 

The Symbolism of Collars

Collars have a strong symbolic meaning in the BDSM community. They are a sign that a person belongs to someone. It is common for top who wants to establish a deeper and long-term orientated relationship with a bottom to put a collar around his neck to show him and the world that the sub belongs to him and is no longer free. This act is called “collaring”. Being collard usually implies a interdependent relationship: The top promises to give the sub something usually guidance, protection and play in exchange for the subs devotion, obedience, trust and loyalty. Due to the powerful contract which a collar symbolizes it is a very special piece of gear which is treated unlike any other. Usually only the top is allowed to put it on and take it off, most of the time also only the top may touch it. Touching the collar of a sub without asking the top for permission is considered highly offensive and even hostile by some people. In some high protocol situations it is even forbidden to talk to a collard sub because you are violating the property of another top. Also in a high protocol environment it is not uncommon for subs to walk around with a collar around his neck but with an open lock. This is a signal that he is open for a top to collar him. Closing the lock just for fun or laughs again is offensive because the sub probably hopes to get at least some of the affection listed above from the persons who closed the lock.

Materials

Collars can be made of nearly every fetish material out there. Most common are leather collars. Because the material is skin friendly and to a certain degree can absorb sweat it is best for long term wear. Rubber and neoprene lack this quality so wearing it for extended periods of time can lead to skin irritation, especially when wearing a collar out of stiff industrial rubber without deburred edges on bare skin. The last common material to mention here is metal. I have seen collars being made out of all different kinds of metal. However I would recommend only ones being made out of stainless steel or aluminum because even when exposed to sweat they do not rust. Other metals like cooper or steel oxidizes. Because a collar through constant movement experiences some physical stress corrosion prevention applied to steel like chrome or zinc wears off and the collar can rust again. Of cause noble metals like gold or platinum do not rust but you have to be quite the posh kinkster to afford such a collar. Metal collars come in form of chain, chainmail, rings or steel cable. When it comes to chain you can choose between welded and forged chain. Welded chain industrial made and thus cheaper and has a deburred weldseam. Depending on the quality the deburration is not as good as it should be so there is a potential for scratches when wearing a collar. So before wearing it check the seams of there are not rough edges.

More uncommon materials I have seen collars made out of are braided rope, jeans cloth, bike chain and tires.

Decorative Collars

Chain

Probably the most common form of the collars and thus comes in various styles (p.e. from Mr S or Regulation). All have in common that they are closed by a pad lock which is mostly worn up front. The most common pattern is the anchor chain which is made out of round links which either come in long or short versions and in various thicknesses. Even when using a small pad lock the link size is usually so large that this kind of collar can’t be worn discreetly under a shirt. Depending on the personal style the chain can be worn longer or tight around the neck. The advantage of this chain is that you can easily attach things to the collar using pad locks or carabiners. Depending on the pad lock quality you can grab and pull the sub on this collar.

Mr S Yellow Colors Aluminum Chainmail Collar

Mr S Yellow Colors Aluminum Chainmail Collar

Chainmail

Chainmail is a material where small metal rings are linked together to form a mesh-like surfaces. Collars out of this material are lighter and smaller and thus more discreet than chains. Of cause they are also more fragile and should not be pulled on. A nifty feature of the Mr S Aluminum ones is that they come in different colors so you can use them a bit as a hanky. If you can a bit more weighted feeling try out the stainless steel one.

Torquator Collar

Stylewise somewhere between a chain pattern and chainmail this collar was originally designed to restrain dogs. So this collar is popular by dog players especially of wild ones. When pulling onto this collar please be careful because serious injuries can be the result.

 

Cable Lock

Another discreet option is the cable lock collar from Recon. The collar itself is made out of coated steel but since there are no moving links the coating will probably will not rub off keeping the cable from rusting. The two endings are made out of stainless steel with colored rubber accents so again you can show your favorite kink. Unlike the chainmail collar this one is also closed with a lock which has a great psychologically effect. The lock and the collar are small and discreet enough to be worn under a dress shirt during work yet to frail to be pulled on.

Rope Collar

If a closed look is too much of a statement or you don’t like the idea of metal around your neck (after all a collar is all about the headspace), Mr S came up with a rope collar. It is made out of black braided rope and closed with a leather strap and a non-locking roller buckle. If you ask the guys at Mr S nicely the can probably make you this collar also in other colors

Tolan Collar

This is basically an ergonomically shaped ring of steel around the sub’s neck. It is nearly seamless and rather sleek so it can be worn under a business shirt without showing off or attracting attention. Since it is made out of stainless steel it will not rust.

Jougs

I am not sure if to put jougs into this category or the play category because wearing them for an extended period of time is definitely a punishment! Jougs or iron collars are made out of piece of steel, sometimes lined with leather for additional comfort. They are closed by padlocks, integrated locks or screws. Sometimes they come with d-rings welded onto them for added play possibilities. Sometimes following antic models they already have cuffs for the hands attached or even also feet welded with chains onto them. Another version are double rigid irons for the neck and the wrists for real stress bondage.

The Heaviest Parus Steel Collar Weighing 8.5kg

The Heaviest Parus Steel Collar Weighing 8.5kg

The most sever iron collars I know off are made by Parus in Munich. I already wrote a Christmas gift tip about them last year. They are really well made, almost seamless with the integrated lock and so heavy that with some models I would like to recommend consulting your doctor about disc problems before putting them on!

Regardless of what kind of iron collar you are getting when shopping for a joug please watch for deburred edges otherwise severe abrasions can happen!

Functional Collars

Bondage collar

Another quite common type of collars (p.e. from Mr S or Regulation). They basically are like a cuff style restraint just larger to fit around the neck. So very often you can get matching collars to your existing restraint set. Being made for play they come with d-rings to attach the sub to thing or restraint to the neck. Depending on the individual style some are locking which adds a sense of bondage. A pro tip: If you want to fetter a large boot, p.e. an MX boot, and your restraint set’s ankle cuffs are too small try out a collar. Most of the time they are large enough and will serve you well as a boot restraint.

Fetters Posture Collar

Fetters Posture Collar

Posture collar

A posture collar (look at Mr S or Regulation) is a more intense form of the bondage collar. It is quite wide and usually padded, sometimes it also has an anatomically formed chin rest. The effect of this design is that tilting of the head and nodding is getting extremely difficult locking the head in one place. Usually such a collar will also have d-rings and there are locking versions out there.

Chocking Collar

More a breathplay toy than just a simple collar please use this one with caution! This collar is basically a latigo leather belt that is closed by a rolling buckle tightly around the neck. On the other side of the belt is a small metal loop with a roller feature through which the belt exits. In that end a d-ring is added onto which a leash can be attached. If you pull on the leash the collar will tighten and chock the person wearing it.

Shock Collar

Shock collars were originally designed to train dogs. Onto a nylon collar a remote controllable box with two electrode pins is attached. Usually this kind of collars come with different intensity settings. I implore you to take advantage of these different settings and don’t start out too high! The shock boxes are designed to train even dogs which have thick fur and skin. On human skin they can leave burn marks or even damage the nerve system! There are fetish versions out there which are not so powerful but being a power bottom and pain pig myself I can see the temptations of “the real deal” especially when it comes to dog play. Yet still please be careful. Not sexual kink is worth losing your health permanently.

Fetters Wrist-to-Neck Restraints

Fetters Wrist-to-Neck Restraints

Wrist to neck Restraint

Not really just a collar but the leather version of an iron collar with attached restraints. It is a leather lined locking collar onto which two locking wrist restraints are riveted. These rivets allow for some movement around its axis but otherwise the head has to go where the hand wants to be. Especially with added bondage mitts this will leave the sub quite helpless.

Collars Accessories

Especially with the raise of pup and dog play in the last couple of years collar accessories have gained popularity. Most commonly dog tags are used either in their original purpose to mark the dog and write his name on it. But I have also seen a bouquet of different colored tags as hankies. Of cause a dog needs guidance and sometimes restraining so leather leashes become quite popular.

Fetters Heavy Leather Hogtie Set

All Retraints of the Fetters Heavy Leather Hogtie Set

All Retraints of the Fetters Heavy Leather Hogtie Set

My toy purchasing process is quite easy. When I see a toy it has to fascinate me and spark my imagination. I need to start dreaming what I can do with it and what can be done to me using it. Sometimes it takes two to three visits when the faint “This is interesting” turns into “I need that in my life and playroom!” But sometimes there is an instant connection to a toy.

Last Friday I was working on my master thesis when the new Regulation newsletter popped up. Their headlining product was the new Fetters Heavy Leather Hogtie Set. I was immediately drawn to this product and my kinky fantasy was running wild. Actually it was so enticing that I stopped working in my thesis. That really means something when toys are you hobby and you have seen a lot.

Detail of how the Wrist Restraint in Connected to the Thigh Restraint

Detail of how the Wrist Restraint in Connected to the Thigh Restraint

This set is actually not very new but a clever combination of existing toys with a nifty addition: They have taken their padded thigh-to-ankle restraints to bind them together. Onto this restraint they added a flat loop through with the belt of their trusted padded wrist restraint goes. So wrists and ankles are connected to the thigh limiting the movement even further. Naturally coming from their premium restraint range all pieces are locking and feature two welded D-rings. For additionally fettering they developed a belt with two loops to bind the upper arms together. This piece of bondage is also locking.

All piece of gear can of cause be used individually yet it is the combination that makes them shine. I can’t wait to get my hands on one of these sets and try it out myself. It retails for £249 which is a pretty good deal when you keep in mind what you are getting for your money.

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