Fetters Padded Locking Wrist & Ankle Cuffs

Vendor: Regulation & Mr S

Fetters Padded Locking Restraints for Wrist and Ankle

Fetters Padded Locking Restraints for Wrist and Ankle

Construction

Both restraints are made in a cuff style: There is a piece of padding which goes around the joint which is fettered with a strap. The padding is a thick and soft piece of foam lined with soft leather. Onto the outside of the padding a piece of bridle leather which is a bid narrower than the padding. So even when the sub struggles heavily there is padding over the leather’s hard edges. The bridle leather piece is also only approx 4/5 as long as the padding leaving a part of it free the fold down for a secure fit even if the sub really has small wrists or ankles. Through the padding and onto the bridle leather piece the bridle leather belt is riveted. Four rivets hold the two D-rings, the locking posts and the roller buckle in place.

The belt on these restraints are long enough with holes punched close enough to the rivet that they can accommodate small to really large wrists and ankles. When you are on the larger end of the circumference spectrum there will be a space without padding which did not bother all testees.

Minimal Circumference Maximal Lockable Circumference Maximal Not Lockable Circumference
Wrist Restraints 10cm 24cm 32cm
Ankle Restraints 15.5cm 27cm 35.5cm

When I first got the restraints I was a bit puzzled by a rather large “wave” on the belt between the central rivets. It turns out that once you put the restraint onto a sub the padding follows the curvature of the wave so the belt does not get stretched! This attention to detail shows on the entire toy: The stitching is flawless, the D-rings are welded, the leather smells and feels like good, sustainably tanned leather is supposed to. In terms of customizing you just recently got the choice of black and white for the strap and a choice of 8 different colors for the padding to match your fetish gear.

Detail of the Lavish Padding

Detail of the Lavish Padding

Finally, a word on the Mr S restraints. The restraints I am reviewing are the ones from Fetters but I have played with the Mr S ones several dozen times in the USA. So I can assure you that in terms of quality and functionality they are no different than the ones from Fetters. The only difference is that you can “only” choose between black, grey, red and blue lining for the padding and that the straps are only available in black.

So a bit like with the ErosTek power boxes: When you are living in Europe, go for the ones from Regulation, when you living in the USA go for the ones from Mr S.

Playing with it

Detail of one of two D-Rings, the Locking Posts and the Roller Buckle,

Detail of one of two D-Rings, the Locking Posts and the Roller Buckle,

What sets these restraints apart from others is really the padding. It is so lavish, lush and soft that once broken in and fettered in a secure position there is no feeling of being restrained at all. It is only when the sub starts to struggle that the he feels that behind the pillowy veneer is a merciless, heavy duty restraint keeping them in place even when he fights hard! For that reason I like these restraints a lot for heavy scenes with a very active sub because the fragile joints are well protected by the thick padding. Because they are not that noticeable these restraints are great for subs who want to know they are fettered but are not comfortable (yet) with the tight feeling of a restraint around the joints. Being so comfortable I had several testees using them while sleeping. Since the initial bondage feeling is not quite there I recommend locking the belts slowly one after another so that the sub can hear the clicking sound and realizes that without the key they are not coming off.

Once it comes to tying someone down these restraints are made for complex bondage layouts. With two D-rings with a width of 37mm per restraints there are enough attachment points for elaborate bondage setups.

There are matching collars available: A padded one from Fetters and a non-padded one from Mr S which I will be reviewing in a couple of weeks.

Conclusion: Restraints comfortable enough to be worn 24/7 yet strict enough to power out even an extremely fighting sub.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Lavish padding for comfortable wear and exceptionally joint protection Padding could be a bit longer Fetters Wrist Restraints £79.99
Fetters Ankle Restraints £81.99
Mr S Wrist Restraints $139.95
Extremely well made out of high quality materials with attention to details Mr S Ankle Restraints §149.95
Two D-rings per restraint
Lockable
Lots of color customizing options to match favorite fetish gear

ErosTek ET302R

Vendor: Mr S (North America) or Regulation (EU)

The ErosTek ET302R E-Stim Power Box along with the Remote Control

The ErosTek ET302R E-Stim Power Box along with the Remote Control

Construction

This power box is quite small measuring only 96mm x 61mm x 26mm. It is made out of sturdy black plastic which has an abrasive surface but on the top for better grip. On top the program numbers with the corresponding names are printed with fluorescent ink so after letting the device sit in light a bit you can read which program is which number even in the dark. On the bottom there is the battery compartment for 9V block batteries. All important functions are found at the front of the box. There are the two 3.5mm jackets with channel A on the far left and channel b on the far right. Left from the middle is a double digit nine-segment display with red LEDs, right from it is mono microphone and the power button.

This power box is controlled using a small remote control which measures 72mm x 34mm x 14mm. It features a small carabineer on the lower left corner so you can attach it to a lanyard. In order to exchange the battery you have to unscrew the bottom of the remote control. On the top there are four buttons numbered 0 to 3. Under each button it says what the button does resp. what holding button 0 or 1 down and pressing 2 and 3 will do. On the far right side of the remote there is another red LED which flashed when you press a button.

The box comes with a detailed instruction book and two 3.5mm to 4mm banana plug leads.

Playing with the Toy

As with all E-Stim boxes the sensation experience by the sub depends on a number of factors like which electrode is used where on the body. So the description of the individual programs can only be a rough one.

Program Name Number Induced Sensation
Basic 0 On-Off stimulation with both channels overlapping a bit.
Waves 1 Raising and falling stimulation with Channel B raising while Channel A is going down.
Stroke 2 A bit like wave with raising and falling stimulation with Channel B rising while Channel A is going down yet the speed and intensity changes over time.
Rhythm 3 On-off stimulation with one channel being strong and the other being softer. The stronger channel will increase in intensity to a peak and will start over.
Random 4 Random stimulation in pattern and intensity. Sometimes a channel gets switched off for a period of time to let the nerve endings recover.
Audio Soft 5 Even soft noises get transformned into stimulation on both channels. Best used in a quite environment otherwise the stimulation is continuous.
Audio Loud 6 Quieter noises are ignored and only louder ones produce stimulation on both channels.
Training Levels 1 – 3 7 First select the intended intensity in the Basic program. If you press button 1 a short burst of this intensity is fired. With button 2 a longer, more intense burst is fired. With button 3 an even longer, more intense burst is fired. If you keep button 3 pressed the intensity will grow stronger every second the button is pressed!
Training Ramps 1 – 3 8 First select the maximum intensity in the Basic program. When pressing buttons 1 to 3 the intensity slowly builds up until the selected intensity while 1 is the slowest and 3 is the quickest build up.
Training Signals 1 – 3 9 First select the intended intensity in the Basic program. Each button from 1 to 3 create unique pattern in roughly the selected intensity.

With this box you can only select a program for both channels. There is no way to select a different program for channel A and channel B. When playing for extended periods of time the box will shut down if it hasn’t received a command in 30 minutes resp. 120 minutes if in one of the training modes (number 7 to 9). So especially in long term scenes regularly increase the stimulation a bit. This is also good general advice because the nerves adjust to the stimulation so a constant stimulation level is felt less intense over time.

Detail of the Control Panel of the ErosTek ET302R

Detail of the Control Panel of the ErosTek ET302R

When I first got this box I have to admit the way of controlling it scared me a bit with double and triple function keys. Being more of a bottom who in a nutshell has to explain a potential top how the device works I was a bit discouraged. However As already written the control layout is printed on the remote control and after having used the box four times I knew intuitively which button to press for what. The red LED display works great in all environments with when starting telling the battery level and the corresponding left or right bottom LED flashing when a channel is firing.

This box is even smaller than the ET232 I reviewed last year so it is even better for travelling. The drawback is that you can’t manipulate the programs so you are basically stuck with the stimulation that comes out of the box (don’t get me wrong! The stimulation the box delivers is awesome!). But what this box lacks in adjustability it wins in flexibility being remote controlled. On an open field the range of the remote control is approx. 30m, inside a building depending on the number and material of walls up to 15m.
Having the controls detached from the box creates a big mindfuck. The sub never knows when the stimulation will kick in and in what intensity. So many scenarios are possible: From the sub laying bound alone in the playroom to going shopping when suddenly the e-stim kicks in and the sub has to get a hold of himself. The latter scenario works especially well with the training programs. I know numerous masters who trained their slaves to perform different tasks depending on which signal is fired. Complete remote control though takes a bit of mental effort at the side of the top who needs to know in which program he was on which level in order to operate the box without the display. Yet again, with a bit of training this works really well.
Especially when visiting big events or play parties I highly recommend changing the channel on the box (How to do this is very well described in the manual). Most people don’t bother to do so and I have heard of cheeky people walking around at big events like IML with their remote set to the standard and pressing buttons hoping a box in a training mode on their frequency is waiting for a command…

Detail of the Battery Compartment of the ErosTek ET302R

Detail of the Battery Compartment of the ErosTek ET302R

The fact sheet says that the ET320R has 60 micro coulombs per pulse versus the ET312b which has 80 micro coulombs per pulse. Of cause when it comes to stimulation more is always better but the small box is definitely powerful enough to make you cum, scream or beg for more.  Speaking of fact sheets: I have talked to people who have owned their boxes for nearly a decade and being an electronic device it will sooner or later have some issues. They have ensured me that with a little technical knowledge and talent this box is easy to repair; the manufacturer ErosTek has recently launched a spare part section on their website to it can now be repaired with original parts. However: I have to strongly urge you to only let a true electrical engineering expert repair this box because malfunctions can cause serious harm or at best unintended and unwanted unpleasant stimulation!

Finally a word of warning for people wanting to order it inside the EU: All Erostek devices I have seen so far are lacking the CE marking which is a requirement for a device being sold in the EU. Several friends of mine had their Erostek device being confiscated by custom officers in several different countries when ordered directly from the USA. Best and safest way to get an Erostek device into the EU is either ordering it through Regulation in London or purchase it when visiting a country outside the EU and bring it with you personally (even though theoretically it can be confiscated by custom at the air port).

Conclusion: The smallest and most flexible remote controlled electro box out there.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Powerful Programs can’t be manipulated Mr S $399,95
Fun Programs Same program on both channels
Remote controllable Regulation £399
Very small
Good value for money
Easy to repair

 

Mister B Dark Crystal Large Tounguebiter

Vendor: Regulation

The Mister B Dark Crystal Large Tounguebiter

The Mister B Dark Crystal Large Tounguebiter

Material

This dildo is made out of phthalate-free vinyl and comes in either black or clear. It is made in Belgium so it has to stick to the strict EU regulations regarding product safety so it is safe to use without a condom (as long as it is only used by one person, see below). Since like all vinyl toys it has to use some form of more or less volatile plasticizer, store the toy in a well ventilated area where it does not touch other toys so they don’t damage each other. Straight out of the wrapping it does not smell bad, just when you get your nose close to the toy you will recognize the usual vinyl smell. Firmness wise it is on the softer side of vinyl toys yet it stands up straight when resting on the base.

Being made out of vinyl you can use any lube with it, e.g. water- or silicone-based ones, hybrid lube or fat like Crisco. Cleaning the toy is easy: I soak my toys for half an hour in water that is so hot that I can just touch it and add dish soap. Any hotter water will damage the vinyl. After that I let it dry and spray a sanitizer on it. This procedure should kill most germs but compare to other materials vinyl has a porous surface. So if you want to be a 100% safe when using this toy with other people, put a condom over it.

Detail of the Glans-Shaped Top and the Bumps which cover the Shaft

Detail of the Glans-Shaped Top and the Bumps which cover the Shaft

Shape

The basic for of this toy is the one of a traditional dildo with balls forming the base. The inside of the base is a bit dome-shaped so due the softness of the material, it works like a strong suction cup on smooth surfaces. The balls are large enough to comfortable hold the dildo especially when a second person is using it on the bottom.

The dildo’s top is glans-shaped with a diameter of approx. 45mm. After a small recess the shaft starts out with a diameter of approx. 45mm and increases in size up to 57mm. The length of the shaft including the glans is 235mm. All over the shaft there are approx. 6mm high round bumps.

Playing with it

This toy is definitely not for the anal novice. The glans is rather dull so you need to be either experienced or somewhat pre-stretched to easily take it.  While the shaft it not too big the bumps make taking it a bit of a challenge if you are not fistable. Yet they are the feature which make this toy interesting. The sphincter is one of the body areas with the most nerve ending so when riding this dildo the bumps stimulate the nerves and force the muscle to relax in small areas. To really enjoy this ride don’t force it in or ride it to vigorously right from the beginning, otherwise you might damage your sphincter or the mucosa of your rectum.

Detail of the Base with Suction Cup Feature

Detail of the Base with Suction Cup Feature

But not only on your own is this dildo fun, with a partner it gets a whole new quality. While lying down and relaxing, purely focusing on the sensation of the bumps teasing your nerves the partner can challenge the bottom with speed and depth in a sensible way causing exciting and hot agony. I love this toy in the middle or the end of a fisting scene. While the sphincter is relaxed enough to take the toy, the bumps really tease the from the fisting already sensitive nerve ending. With another person on charge twisting the dildo adds a new tantalizing sensation. When doing this a word of warning is in place: This can become so horny that you can easily overexcite your sphincter and the nerves so heavy play with this dildo is not recommended when you have another fisting scene in the next couple of days.

The Mister B Dark Crystal Large Toungebiter can be bought at Regulation for £38.99 either in black or in clear. There is also a shorter version out there with fewer bumps on the shaft that costs £34.99 and is also available in black and clear.

Buyer’s Guide To Collars

ToyTorture.com has always been sort of a reflection of my own play style and my own desires manifested in toys. As authentic and honest reviews at that approach might create the flaw of it is that I am missing out on entire categories of toys. Sometimes I get asked about these categories over and over. Chastity is one of them, collars is another. Since a collar is the strongest bondage device out there yet I am not really into them I decided at the end of the Heavy Bondage Special to give a short overview of the collars out there. Especially in the paragraph about the symbolism of collars I am making a lot of generalizations. Please do not feel offended if your individual perception is different but celebrate it as the diversity that is the heart of our community. After that I briefly talk about the different materials collars can be made out of. The last and main part of this article are showing different kinds of collars. I sorted the collars into two categories: The first are decorative collars which primarily serve a symbolic purpose and through their designed are not primarily designed to be integrated into play. The latter category are functional collars which are made to be played with.

 

The Symbolism of Collars

Collars have a strong symbolic meaning in the BDSM community. They are a sign that a person belongs to someone. It is common for top who wants to establish a deeper and long-term orientated relationship with a bottom to put a collar around his neck to show him and the world that the sub belongs to him and is no longer free. This act is called “collaring”. Being collard usually implies a interdependent relationship: The top promises to give the sub something usually guidance, protection and play in exchange for the subs devotion, obedience, trust and loyalty. Due to the powerful contract which a collar symbolizes it is a very special piece of gear which is treated unlike any other. Usually only the top is allowed to put it on and take it off, most of the time also only the top may touch it. Touching the collar of a sub without asking the top for permission is considered highly offensive and even hostile by some people. In some high protocol situations it is even forbidden to talk to a collard sub because you are violating the property of another top. Also in a high protocol environment it is not uncommon for subs to walk around with a collar around his neck but with an open lock. This is a signal that he is open for a top to collar him. Closing the lock just for fun or laughs again is offensive because the sub probably hopes to get at least some of the affection listed above from the persons who closed the lock.

Materials

Collars can be made of nearly every fetish material out there. Most common are leather collars. Because the material is skin friendly and to a certain degree can absorb sweat it is best for long term wear. Rubber and neoprene lack this quality so wearing it for extended periods of time can lead to skin irritation, especially when wearing a collar out of stiff industrial rubber without deburred edges on bare skin. The last common material to mention here is metal. I have seen collars being made out of all different kinds of metal. However I would recommend only ones being made out of stainless steel or aluminum because even when exposed to sweat they do not rust. Other metals like cooper or steel oxidizes. Because a collar through constant movement experiences some physical stress corrosion prevention applied to steel like chrome or zinc wears off and the collar can rust again. Of cause noble metals like gold or platinum do not rust but you have to be quite the posh kinkster to afford such a collar. Metal collars come in form of chain, chainmail, rings or steel cable. When it comes to chain you can choose between welded and forged chain. Welded chain industrial made and thus cheaper and has a deburred weldseam. Depending on the quality the deburration is not as good as it should be so there is a potential for scratches when wearing a collar. So before wearing it check the seams of there are not rough edges.

More uncommon materials I have seen collars made out of are braided rope, jeans cloth, bike chain and tires.

Decorative Collars

Chain

Probably the most common form of the collars and thus comes in various styles (p.e. from Mr S or Regulation). All have in common that they are closed by a pad lock which is mostly worn up front. The most common pattern is the anchor chain which is made out of round links which either come in long or short versions and in various thicknesses. Even when using a small pad lock the link size is usually so large that this kind of collar can’t be worn discreetly under a shirt. Depending on the personal style the chain can be worn longer or tight around the neck. The advantage of this chain is that you can easily attach things to the collar using pad locks or carabiners. Depending on the pad lock quality you can grab and pull the sub on this collar.

Mr S Yellow Colors Aluminum Chainmail Collar

Mr S Yellow Colors Aluminum Chainmail Collar

Chainmail

Chainmail is a material where small metal rings are linked together to form a mesh-like surfaces. Collars out of this material are lighter and smaller and thus more discreet than chains. Of cause they are also more fragile and should not be pulled on. A nifty feature of the Mr S Aluminum ones is that they come in different colors so you can use them a bit as a hanky. If you can a bit more weighted feeling try out the stainless steel one.

Torquator Collar

Stylewise somewhere between a chain pattern and chainmail this collar was originally designed to restrain dogs. So this collar is popular by dog players especially of wild ones. When pulling onto this collar please be careful because serious injuries can be the result.

 

Cable Lock

Another discreet option is the cable lock collar from Recon. The collar itself is made out of coated steel but since there are no moving links the coating will probably will not rub off keeping the cable from rusting. The two endings are made out of stainless steel with colored rubber accents so again you can show your favorite kink. Unlike the chainmail collar this one is also closed with a lock which has a great psychologically effect. The lock and the collar are small and discreet enough to be worn under a dress shirt during work yet to frail to be pulled on.

Rope Collar

If a closed look is too much of a statement or you don’t like the idea of metal around your neck (after all a collar is all about the headspace), Mr S came up with a rope collar. It is made out of black braided rope and closed with a leather strap and a non-locking roller buckle. If you ask the guys at Mr S nicely the can probably make you this collar also in other colors

Tolan Collar

This is basically an ergonomically shaped ring of steel around the sub’s neck. It is nearly seamless and rather sleek so it can be worn under a business shirt without showing off or attracting attention. Since it is made out of stainless steel it will not rust.

Jougs

I am not sure if to put jougs into this category or the play category because wearing them for an extended period of time is definitely a punishment! Jougs or iron collars are made out of piece of steel, sometimes lined with leather for additional comfort. They are closed by padlocks, integrated locks or screws. Sometimes they come with d-rings welded onto them for added play possibilities. Sometimes following antic models they already have cuffs for the hands attached or even also feet welded with chains onto them. Another version are double rigid irons for the neck and the wrists for real stress bondage.

The Heaviest Parus Steel Collar Weighing 8.5kg

The Heaviest Parus Steel Collar Weighing 8.5kg

The most sever iron collars I know off are made by Parus in Munich. I already wrote a Christmas gift tip about them last year. They are really well made, almost seamless with the integrated lock and so heavy that with some models I would like to recommend consulting your doctor about disc problems before putting them on!

Regardless of what kind of iron collar you are getting when shopping for a joug please watch for deburred edges otherwise severe abrasions can happen!

Functional Collars

Bondage collar

Another quite common type of collars (p.e. from Mr S or Regulation). They basically are like a cuff style restraint just larger to fit around the neck. So very often you can get matching collars to your existing restraint set. Being made for play they come with d-rings to attach the sub to thing or restraint to the neck. Depending on the individual style some are locking which adds a sense of bondage. A pro tip: If you want to fetter a large boot, p.e. an MX boot, and your restraint set’s ankle cuffs are too small try out a collar. Most of the time they are large enough and will serve you well as a boot restraint.

Fetters Posture Collar

Fetters Posture Collar

Posture collar

A posture collar (look at Mr S or Regulation) is a more intense form of the bondage collar. It is quite wide and usually padded, sometimes it also has an anatomically formed chin rest. The effect of this design is that tilting of the head and nodding is getting extremely difficult locking the head in one place. Usually such a collar will also have d-rings and there are locking versions out there.

Chocking Collar

More a breathplay toy than just a simple collar please use this one with caution! This collar is basically a latigo leather belt that is closed by a rolling buckle tightly around the neck. On the other side of the belt is a small metal loop with a roller feature through which the belt exits. In that end a d-ring is added onto which a leash can be attached. If you pull on the leash the collar will tighten and chock the person wearing it.

Shock Collar

Shock collars were originally designed to train dogs. Onto a nylon collar a remote controllable box with two electrode pins is attached. Usually this kind of collars come with different intensity settings. I implore you to take advantage of these different settings and don’t start out too high! The shock boxes are designed to train even dogs which have thick fur and skin. On human skin they can leave burn marks or even damage the nerve system! There are fetish versions out there which are not so powerful but being a power bottom and pain pig myself I can see the temptations of “the real deal” especially when it comes to dog play. Yet still please be careful. Not sexual kink is worth losing your health permanently.

Fetters Wrist-to-Neck Restraints

Fetters Wrist-to-Neck Restraints

Wrist to neck Restraint

Not really just a collar but the leather version of an iron collar with attached restraints. It is a leather lined locking collar onto which two locking wrist restraints are riveted. These rivets allow for some movement around its axis but otherwise the head has to go where the hand wants to be. Especially with added bondage mitts this will leave the sub quite helpless.

Collars Accessories

Especially with the raise of pup and dog play in the last couple of years collar accessories have gained popularity. Most commonly dog tags are used either in their original purpose to mark the dog and write his name on it. But I have also seen a bouquet of different colored tags as hankies. Of cause a dog needs guidance and sometimes restraining so leather leashes become quite popular.

Fetters Heavy Leather Hogtie Set

All Retraints of the Fetters Heavy Leather Hogtie Set

All Retraints of the Fetters Heavy Leather Hogtie Set

My toy purchasing process is quite easy. When I see a toy it has to fascinate me and spark my imagination. I need to start dreaming what I can do with it and what can be done to me using it. Sometimes it takes two to three visits when the faint “This is interesting” turns into “I need that in my life and playroom!” But sometimes there is an instant connection to a toy.

Last Friday I was working on my master thesis when the new Regulation newsletter popped up. Their headlining product was the new Fetters Heavy Leather Hogtie Set. I was immediately drawn to this product and my kinky fantasy was running wild. Actually it was so enticing that I stopped working in my thesis. That really means something when toys are you hobby and you have seen a lot.

Detail of how the Wrist Restraint in Connected to the Thigh Restraint

Detail of how the Wrist Restraint in Connected to the Thigh Restraint

This set is actually not very new but a clever combination of existing toys with a nifty addition: They have taken their padded thigh-to-ankle restraints to bind them together. Onto this restraint they added a flat loop through with the belt of their trusted padded wrist restraint goes. So wrists and ankles are connected to the thigh limiting the movement even further. Naturally coming from their premium restraint range all pieces are locking and feature two welded D-rings. For additionally fettering they developed a belt with two loops to bind the upper arms together. This piece of bondage is also locking.

All piece of gear can of cause be used individually yet it is the combination that makes them shine. I can’t wait to get my hands on one of these sets and try it out myself. It retails for £249 which is a pretty good deal when you keep in mind what you are getting for your money.

Preserving the Burning Fire – On Outgrowing and Passing on Toys

S&M stands for sexual magic

– Patrick Califia

Passing on toys and gear has a long tradition in the BDSM and fetish community. One of the reasons for that is the concept of energy transfer during a scene. What happens during play is more than just the exchange of mental or physical force between the top and the sub. An intense connection between them is formed that consists out of more than the sum of its parts (If you are curious about this more spiritual aspect of BDSM I recommend the works of Marc Thompson or Joeff Mains). For some people this connection is the origin of headspace, for some the sole reason they engage in BDSM and certainly an intense, overwhelming and mind-shattering experience when you experience it for the first time.

The First Restraints I have ever bought: The McHurt Ihsan Wrist, Ankle and Boots Cuff and Hand Suspension Restraints

The First Restraints I have ever bought: The McHurt Ihsan Wrist, Ankle and Boots Cuff and Hand Suspension Restraints

The concept of energy exchange also includes that some of the energy of the players stays in their gear and toys. For that reason some pieces of gear or toys are special and dear to perverts and not easily parted with. Most often floggers, boots or bar vests are considered to be special in that way. In my case three pairs of McHurt restraints are that way. They were among the first things I reviewed for this website and liked them a lot. It feels, they have been with me forever. But when I looked up the order date for writing this article I was stunned: I had only bought them in early December 2011. Not even half a decade felt like a life time. This illustrates really well what they mean to me. All the fun, experiments, surprising experiences and intense emotions are somewhat bound to them. Yet as I matured as a kinkster I outgrew them. While I still stand to my 3 ½ year old review and consider them a good pair of restraints to start out with I want more: More padding, more D-rings, more build quality, more features. So I choose the Fetters Padded Locking Wrist and Ankle Cuffs from Regulation to replace them.

This evaluation process happened with some toys over the last year. I looked at them and realized I haven’t been using them in a long time; saw no real play scenario for them anymore so I sold them to friends, to strangers, to anybody interested. These restraints were different. They not only represent for me the scenes I had in them but also my getting serious about BDSM: Committing to my longings, considerably investing money in this part of myself and somehow giving my desires a physical representation. Yet despite all these arguments I decided to pass them on. As soon as I would get the new ones the old ones would become an exhibition piece. Laying in my toy chest, reminding me of good times and fond memories. But like an instrument not being played anymore, they would be a dead accumulation of matter, slowly fading away, losing all the energy stored in them. So giving them away just by chance was no option! They are too special for me to see them disappear out of my life. Ultimately I decided to give them to a young pervert who is slowly exploring his desires, being just like me 4 ½ years ago willing to commit to his dreams and turn them into reality. So these special pieces will continue to live on in the BDSM scene until he outgrows them and hopefully then passes them on to someone special just like I did.

As important as these restraints are to me I am lucky that I am not parting completely from them: The set I ordered back then also included a pair of boot restraints, large enough to even fetter MX boots. A toy I have not seen elsewhere yet and thus I am keeping it: For memory sake, for current play, for future times when this mythical and mind-blowing bond between top and sub manifests again.

Hail thee who play

– Michael McClure

E-Stim Electro Whisker

electrowhiskLike every year for Folsom Europe this website went a bit quiet and will be back next week with the final stretch of the e-stim special. However during Folsom Europe I had the chance to try out a wonderful devious and delicate toy I want to introduce as a desiderate: The E-Stim Electro Whisker from Regulation.

It is a whisker made out of thin conduction stainless steel rods that packed into an isolated shaft. On top of the shaft is a 4mm banana jacket for connection to your power box. This toy is quite devilish: Because the rods are quite flexible you can vary the contact area very rapidly. So the sensation can momentarily change from a mild tingle to a hellish sting. The toy costs £40 directly at E-stim or £53.99 at Regulation. I had so much fun with it as a top and a sub, I can’t wait to add it to my collection!

Regulation Bi-Polar Ring Set

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

The Bi-Polar Ring Set consisting of a 40mm and a 50mm Diameter Ring

The Bi-Polar Ring Set consisting of a 40mm and a 50mm Diameter Ring

The set consists of two rings: One with 50mm diameter and another one with 40mm diameter. They are made out of white, translucent silicone. On the inside there runs a strip of black conductive silicone which doesn’t go all the way around thus forming two poles. On the bottom is a little rectangular appendix through which both conductive silicone cores run which end into jackets for 2mm pin.

Playing with the toy

This toy is meant for being worn like a normal cockring. Through the flexibility of the material and the two sizes it fits even people with a larger pack. For people with a Western European standard size dick you can put the smaller ring onto the shaft which is especially interesting just below the glans. Having two poles you don’t need an additional electrode to create a sensation. If you do use both rings, try around with cross wiring them or attaching both onto one pole for interesting effects. With one ring below the glans and another on the penis root some testees even learned to cum when using a stroke program. All this properties make this set the perfect choice in combination with a remote controlled box like the Erostek ET302R when walking around. The rings stay in place and you don’t have to worry about one or both electrode falling off.

Detail of the 50mm Ring with a Lead for Mono Polar Use Attached

Detail of the 50mm Ring with a Lead for Mono Polar Use Attached

When in doubt which ring to choose because one is a bit looser and the other is a bit tighter I would always recommend taking the tighter one if this doesn’t cut circulation. If that isn’t the case this toy works surprisingly well as a cockring though it is not too comfortable being so thin. Through the flexibility of the material the ring moves quite a bit so when walking around so I highly recommend being shaven when wearing it for a commando public scene – or enjoy an additional stimulation. Speaking of stimulation the relatively low mass and small conducting area the sensations produced through this toy will be more on the stingy side. Through the pressure onto the body there will be good connectivity most of the so the whole contact area will be used for the smoothest stimulation possible. Generally speaking I would not advise using conductive gel with this toy because the added slick can cause the ring to slip off when the dick is soft.

Besides being a cockring this toy makes for an interesting skin play electrode. Simply wear an isolating glove (p.e. a latex one), apply enough pressure that the conductive areas get in touch with the skin and move the ring over the body using water based lube. If you stay below the waist line it is a secure way of play to make the sub enjoy a travelling sensation without too much sting unlike from a pin wheel p.e..

When doing other forms of play especially edging when this ring is worn please keep in mind that silicone based lube will disintegrate the toy! After play simply was it in warm water with a mild detergent, let it dry and disinfect it with alcohol.

Conclusion: Versatile Bi-Pole for mostly Stingy Sensations.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Only need one electrode for stimulation Can create only stingy sensations Regulation £34.99
Ideal for mobile play
Two rings will fit most

 

E-Stim System 2b Pro Pack

All E-Stim power boxes I have talked about so far are more or less easy to use and thus a bit limited to the way the stimulation can be tailored to your ideas. Last weekend I have subbed to a top using the Erostek ET312b and loved it as ever yet I do not really to own one: It is big, heavy and with the small display and many buttons difficult to use. This is not a toy as a sub I can just give to a top unfamiliar with it and say “Try it out on me.” Yet I sometimes wish for more elaborate play setup than my ET232 can provide.

The E-Stim System 2b Pro Pack

The E-Stim System 2b Pro Pack

E-Stim System, the make of the awesome bi-polar electrodes and many other fun E-Stim toys, carry what I believe to be a solution to my problem: The E-Stim System 2b. Or more precisely the 2b Pro Pack. The box is not significant larger than my ET232 so storing and travelling with it will not be a problem. It runs on 9V batteries which are widely available.

So much for the practical part. When it comes to play the box offers a two channel output and digital, stereo audio processing. The control concept on the box is similar to the one of the ET312b. But, the 2b has a sophisticated remote control suit for your computer. You can either control all functions on a computer inside the playroom or even control your sub’s box via the internet when you are not around. I have only seen screen shots of the computer UI but it seems quite intuitive and easy to learn.

Sadly I have neither topped nor subbed with this box but I have many great things about it and am anxious to try it out. If you want to provide me with a review sample of the 2b Pro Pack, please get in touch with me.

If you just start out with E-Stim or want to use the computer connectivity right out of the box, I would recommend the Pro pack which comes with everything you need. It costs £359 and can be purchased either directly from the manufacturer with free shipping. If you don’t need a wired power supply or the computer interface you can get just the box with some leads for £299 either directly from E-Stim System or Regulation.

E-Stim System Conductive Rubber Cock Loops

Vendor: E-Stim System

A Pair of E-Stim System Cock Loops

A Pair of E-Stim System Cock Loops

Construction

The design of this toy is quite simple: you get a pair of 26cm long tubes made out of conductive silicone. Depending on the leads system you are using, you can choose between tubes with a 2mm or 4mm internal diameter. Each tube comes with collar through which you can pull both ends in order to create loops.

Playing with it

I consider this toy THE E-Stim essential. If you buy one pair of electrodes for your box, make it this because it is so versatile. The probably most often used play scenario for this toy is CBT: Put a ball stretcher on, lay one loop around the penis root and the other one around the stretched balls and try some different programs. With some training most men can even turn their box with these electrodes into a milker. For this stimulation put one loop either around the penis root or on the bottom of the shaft and the other one right below the glans and select the stroke program. If you do this on a regular basis your dick will most likely learn to reach an orgasm from the currency induced nerve irritation on the frenulum. For faster trainings results I would recommend adding an anal set up the stimulates the prostate in the same pattern. But always keep in mind to not overdo the stimulation because especially with electro the nerves of your genitals are easily overwrought. So the stimulation might have a nice torture aspect getting your endorphins flowing but won’t make you come. One thing I have heard people doing but strongly would disadvise doing is using the loops as a substitute for an electro sound! The loops are cut from a long tube but the edges are not deburred so they can injure your ureatha! For this kind of games invest into genuine electro sounds or special glans electrodes.

Detail of the Collar Holding the Loops in Shape

Detail of the Collar Holding the Loops in Shape

When playing on the penis I would always recommend putting a TPR stretcher – like mine of the many stretchers and cockrings from Oxballs or Keepburning – because there are easy to handle, are not conducting and will keep the electrodes from touching and thus from short-circuiting. Speaking of short-circuiting: there are bi-polar version of this kind of toy out there which have an isolating connector in the middle! This loops – like most others – are a monopoles. Putting a leads into both ends will short-circuit your box and can destroy it!

Detail of a Connection to a 4mm Lead

Detail of a Connection to a 4mm Lead

But this toy is not limited to CBT. When wearing an isolating glove use the pair as a skin electrode and caress the sub’s skin with it. You can even make an anal electrode out of the pair: Either put one of them into your ass and the other somewhere onto your skin below the waist or put an isolating layer between them – p.e. a piece of freezer bag which is large enough to keep the electrodes separate even when the electrodes shift a bit – and shove both up your butt in order to create a bi-pole.

Maintenance wise this toy is very easy to handle: After having played with it, just wash it in hot water with a bit of detergent in it. Once it’s dried spray or wipe it with a disinfectant. This is especially important when you have used it below your glans because even unnoticed drops of precum can transmit STDs!

Another important play and maintenance aspect to keep in mind is the lube: since the loops are made out of silicone, never use silicone lube on it. On the one hand silicone lube doesn’t conduct currency and on the other hand silicone lube will destroy the silicone of the loops.

Conslusion: Essential and inexpensive E-Stim toy
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Easy to use Maybe a bit short for really BIG cock roots E-Stim Systems £29
Regulation £27,99
Flexible
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