Serious Toys Rubber Sling

Vendor: Demask Dortmund

The Serious Toys Rubber Sling

Rubber is one of the major fetishes in the kink community. As hot as the material is for fetish wear and gear it has some major drawbacks when it comes to manufacture toys out of it: It is hard to cut into shape making the manufacturing process complicated and thus expensive, compared to leather is cannot withstand much force, it dissolves after contact with oils and it needs to be maintained with silicone oil. So when it comes to toys for hard play I stick to leather.

Detail of the Stainless Steel Fittings

I know that there are some rubber slings out there but none of the addressed all the potential issues I mentioned above – unlike the Serious Toys Rubber Sling I have bought. To be honest I was skeptical when considering the purchase because the sling is more expensive than most leather slings and after all being made out of rubber I feared I would at least have to deal with some of the drawbacks. But since the guy who designed this sling did an awesome job designing my bed with added bondage functionality I gave it a try.

The Serious Toys Rubber Sling with Holes Cut into it

The sling is a five point design so there is space to rest your head when lying in the sling. It comes in two sizes: Standard which measures 122cm by 75cm or XL which measures 122cm by 95cm. They have also made a model with holes cut into the sling which is great for piss-heavy scenes. The sling is made out of three 2mm thick industrial rubber layers which are reinforced with Kevlar. Instead of using D-rings housed in riveted rubber loops for suspend the sling from stainless steel fittings are used. They are screwed to a counter plate with four screws. This design prevents shearing which is necessary. While most leather slings resp. their fittings give in around half a ton of static load at best an entire Smart car has been suspended from this sling. So even when you really plowing a heavier bottom in this sling, it can withstand the high dynamic load. However, there is a major drawback of using rubber as a sling material: It has a rather low thermal conductivity so even in a well heated room the sling will be rather cold when lying down.

Despite the material being hard to work with the manufacturing quality is perfect. Computer controlled water saws are used to cut the rubber so the shape is even. Unlike most other common rubber play items the edges of the sling have been deburred so there are no hard edges which could potentially damage rubber gear or abrase the skin.

Detail of the Three Kevlar reinforced Layers of Industrial Rubber

The Sling Suspension Solution in my Playroom

One of the main advantages of rubber is that it is unaffected by most things. Commonly in play involved substances like piss, poppers or silicone lube can tarnish a leather sling while the rubber maintains its mat shine. Being made out of chlorinated industrial rubber you can even use oil-based lubes like Crisco in this sling without damaging it. This in combination with the fact that it is easy to clean makes this sling the ideal choice for group scenes where you can simply spray the sling with a sanitizer and whip it off or raunchier play. Being made out of industrial rubber the Serious Toys Rubber Sling doesn’t even need maintenance like applying silicone oil.

For suspending the sling for the ceiling they recommend a rectangle of 1.5m by 2.2m for the standard size sling and 2m by 2.2m for the XL version. However are you can see from the pictures taken in my playroom if you can live with some small niggles and are creative you can even put it up in room with a challenging layout. Last spring they also introduced stir-ups made out of the same rubber and with the same stainless steel fittings for 99€ a pair. They are larger and wider than all other stir-ups I have seen so far. So if you like to wear big waders or MX boots while getting played with in the sling these might be the stir-ups to go to.

Conclusion: The only high quality, heavy duty and easy to clean and maintain RUBBER sling I know.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Made for heavy duty play Rather cold when lying down Demask Dortmund Standard: 379€

XL: 459€

Can with stand almost everything you expose it to
Made out of rubber
Easy to clean

Crackstuffers Missile

Toy Properties
Form:
Dildo
Material: Rubber
Colors: Blue
Firmness: Hard
Lube: Water & Silicone
Cleaning: Soaking in warm water with non-moisturizing, non scented dish-soap than use sanitizer.
Safer Sex: Clean and sanitize it thoroughly
Storage: Store standing in a well-ventilated place and covered in a thin layer of silicone oil not touching other toys to prevent damaging the toys.

Vendor: Crackstuffers

The Crackstuffers Missile L

When it comes to anal toys Crackstuffers is the brand I get one of the most questions about, especially their depth trainers. Sadly I don’t own one of these toys (yet?) so I am writing a review about the one Crackstuffers toy I own: My Missile L.

Construction

The Crackstuffers Missile is a shape dildo. After a bluntish tip the first fifth of the dildo is tapered for easy insertion. The shaft of the dildo is divided into two equally sized sections. The first section features 6 deep grooves while the lower half is smooth. The Missile comes in four sizes.

Size Diameter Shaft Length
S 6.5cm 28cm
M 7.5cm 29cm
L 8cm 32cm
XL 9cm 33cm

Detail of the Deep Grooves

Playing with it

This dildo is not for the novice: The relatively large diameter already in size S, the blunt tip and firm material make the insertion a bit of a challenge. But once the inserted the firm material becomes an advantage. While with softer materials like vinyl or silicone the sphincter can deform the texture lessening the sensation the grooves stand firm for a nice and intense simulation of many nerve endings inside the sphincter. In order to do injure the anus vigorous fucking is only recommended when it is nicely relaxed and soft. So especially the larger sizes are not meant to start the play with. It is a great toy to end a fist scene with when the sphincter simulation causes a sensation overload. If you want to push it further (being tied) into a sling or in doggy position on a fuck bench and being challenged with the sensation of the grooves somewhere between messaging and tormenting the sphincter triggered a strong headspace of submission with some testees.

Example of possible Discoloring

But the Missile is also great for solo play. Since the bottom of the Crackstuffers Missile is plane and the material is firm enough to not stand up even under pressure it is the ideal dildo for riding (or making your squats more interesting if you want to spice up your workout).

However these material properties come with a price: Rubber does very easily discolor or take on odors Also it is unforgiving towards oil based substances. So using this toy in an heavy ass play scene where Crisco is involved will damage it.

Where to buy?

The Crackstuffers Missile can be bought at their online store for £40.95 to £65.95 depending on the size.

Mr S Nasty Rubber Stick & Nasty Lil’ Rubber Paddle

Vendor: Mr S

Mr S Nasty Rubber Stick & Nasty Lil' Rubber Paddle

Mr S Nasty Rubber Stick & Nasty Lil‘ Rubber Paddle

Construction

As the name of these toys already states they are made out of rubber. While the scent is not as intense as on a piece of rubber clothing they have a faint, for most rubber fetishists stimulating tire scent. The stick is 46cm long, has a diameter of 1.9cm and weights approx. 150g. The main body of the paddle measures 18x8cm and has a 12×3.5cm long grip. The paddle is 1.2cm thick and weights 250g.

Both toys have a hole drilled through their rear end through which with leather string forms a strap.

Playing with it

A friend of mine from Chicago calls the Nasty Rubber Stick his “ouch stick” and right he is. Despite the considerably high weight for an impact toy, the little give in the material makes them stingy as hell! I recommend approaching the max. impact power very slowely cause the blast they deliver is intense and even a mild to medium continuous tapping can be agonizing. Naturally both toys color a sub very quickly. Even a medium blow will leave a red mark on the skin that will stay for some time. When you put real force into the single hits and concentrate on one area bruises will inevitably occur!

Detail of the Leather Strap

Detail of the Leather Strap

If you want to get a somewhat mild impact sensation out of these toys I recommend snapping them. Being very flexible the snap back not fast and thus the sensation is a mild thuddish sting.

Rubber conducts temperature very well. So as the cheeks of the sub begin to turn red and warm the paddle will get warmer. Of cause this also works in the other direction. For an interesting twist stick the paddle in a bucket of ice water. This effect isn’t as strong as with metals and due to begin frail when frozen don’t put the rubber toys into the freezer before a scene. For that I would recommend aluminum impact toys.

A big advantage of these toys is the material: When you play with different partners at a play party simple spray disinfection spray on the toys and rub it off. The rubber will take no damage from it. While you can use silicone oil or lube to make these toys shiny like rubber gear I would not recommend it. The silicone will make the toy slippy then hitting the sub and create a film on the impact area. So if you switch to another toy it will pick up the silicone lube.

Conslusion: Sever and low maintenance impact toy.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Creates intense sensation without much effort Hard to dose sensation Mr S’ Nasty Rubber Stick $28.95
Easy to clean Mr S’ Nasty Lil’ Rubber Paddle $28.95
Inexpensive

 

Buyer’s Guide To Collars

ToyTorture.com has always been sort of a reflection of my own play style and my own desires manifested in toys. As authentic and honest reviews at that approach might create the flaw of it is that I am missing out on entire categories of toys. Sometimes I get asked about these categories over and over. Chastity is one of them, collars is another. Since a collar is the strongest bondage device out there yet I am not really into them I decided at the end of the Heavy Bondage Special to give a short overview of the collars out there. Especially in the paragraph about the symbolism of collars I am making a lot of generalizations. Please do not feel offended if your individual perception is different but celebrate it as the diversity that is the heart of our community. After that I briefly talk about the different materials collars can be made out of. The last and main part of this article are showing different kinds of collars. I sorted the collars into two categories: The first are decorative collars which primarily serve a symbolic purpose and through their designed are not primarily designed to be integrated into play. The latter category are functional collars which are made to be played with.

 

The Symbolism of Collars

Collars have a strong symbolic meaning in the BDSM community. They are a sign that a person belongs to someone. It is common for top who wants to establish a deeper and long-term orientated relationship with a bottom to put a collar around his neck to show him and the world that the sub belongs to him and is no longer free. This act is called “collaring”. Being collard usually implies a interdependent relationship: The top promises to give the sub something usually guidance, protection and play in exchange for the subs devotion, obedience, trust and loyalty. Due to the powerful contract which a collar symbolizes it is a very special piece of gear which is treated unlike any other. Usually only the top is allowed to put it on and take it off, most of the time also only the top may touch it. Touching the collar of a sub without asking the top for permission is considered highly offensive and even hostile by some people. In some high protocol situations it is even forbidden to talk to a collard sub because you are violating the property of another top. Also in a high protocol environment it is not uncommon for subs to walk around with a collar around his neck but with an open lock. This is a signal that he is open for a top to collar him. Closing the lock just for fun or laughs again is offensive because the sub probably hopes to get at least some of the affection listed above from the persons who closed the lock.

Materials

Collars can be made of nearly every fetish material out there. Most common are leather collars. Because the material is skin friendly and to a certain degree can absorb sweat it is best for long term wear. Rubber and neoprene lack this quality so wearing it for extended periods of time can lead to skin irritation, especially when wearing a collar out of stiff industrial rubber without deburred edges on bare skin. The last common material to mention here is metal. I have seen collars being made out of all different kinds of metal. However I would recommend only ones being made out of stainless steel or aluminum because even when exposed to sweat they do not rust. Other metals like cooper or steel oxidizes. Because a collar through constant movement experiences some physical stress corrosion prevention applied to steel like chrome or zinc wears off and the collar can rust again. Of cause noble metals like gold or platinum do not rust but you have to be quite the posh kinkster to afford such a collar. Metal collars come in form of chain, chainmail, rings or steel cable. When it comes to chain you can choose between welded and forged chain. Welded chain industrial made and thus cheaper and has a deburred weldseam. Depending on the quality the deburration is not as good as it should be so there is a potential for scratches when wearing a collar. So before wearing it check the seams of there are not rough edges.

More uncommon materials I have seen collars made out of are braided rope, jeans cloth, bike chain and tires.

Decorative Collars

Chain

Probably the most common form of the collars and thus comes in various styles (p.e. from Mr S or Regulation). All have in common that they are closed by a pad lock which is mostly worn up front. The most common pattern is the anchor chain which is made out of round links which either come in long or short versions and in various thicknesses. Even when using a small pad lock the link size is usually so large that this kind of collar can’t be worn discreetly under a shirt. Depending on the personal style the chain can be worn longer or tight around the neck. The advantage of this chain is that you can easily attach things to the collar using pad locks or carabiners. Depending on the pad lock quality you can grab and pull the sub on this collar.

Mr S Yellow Colors Aluminum Chainmail Collar

Mr S Yellow Colors Aluminum Chainmail Collar

Chainmail

Chainmail is a material where small metal rings are linked together to form a mesh-like surfaces. Collars out of this material are lighter and smaller and thus more discreet than chains. Of cause they are also more fragile and should not be pulled on. A nifty feature of the Mr S Aluminum ones is that they come in different colors so you can use them a bit as a hanky. If you can a bit more weighted feeling try out the stainless steel one.

Torquator Collar

Stylewise somewhere between a chain pattern and chainmail this collar was originally designed to restrain dogs. So this collar is popular by dog players especially of wild ones. When pulling onto this collar please be careful because serious injuries can be the result.

 

Cable Lock

Another discreet option is the cable lock collar from Recon. The collar itself is made out of coated steel but since there are no moving links the coating will probably will not rub off keeping the cable from rusting. The two endings are made out of stainless steel with colored rubber accents so again you can show your favorite kink. Unlike the chainmail collar this one is also closed with a lock which has a great psychologically effect. The lock and the collar are small and discreet enough to be worn under a dress shirt during work yet to frail to be pulled on.

Rope Collar

If a closed look is too much of a statement or you don’t like the idea of metal around your neck (after all a collar is all about the headspace), Mr S came up with a rope collar. It is made out of black braided rope and closed with a leather strap and a non-locking roller buckle. If you ask the guys at Mr S nicely the can probably make you this collar also in other colors

Tolan Collar

This is basically an ergonomically shaped ring of steel around the sub’s neck. It is nearly seamless and rather sleek so it can be worn under a business shirt without showing off or attracting attention. Since it is made out of stainless steel it will not rust.

Jougs

I am not sure if to put jougs into this category or the play category because wearing them for an extended period of time is definitely a punishment! Jougs or iron collars are made out of piece of steel, sometimes lined with leather for additional comfort. They are closed by padlocks, integrated locks or screws. Sometimes they come with d-rings welded onto them for added play possibilities. Sometimes following antic models they already have cuffs for the hands attached or even also feet welded with chains onto them. Another version are double rigid irons for the neck and the wrists for real stress bondage.

The Heaviest Parus Steel Collar Weighing 8.5kg

The Heaviest Parus Steel Collar Weighing 8.5kg

The most sever iron collars I know off are made by Parus in Munich. I already wrote a Christmas gift tip about them last year. They are really well made, almost seamless with the integrated lock and so heavy that with some models I would like to recommend consulting your doctor about disc problems before putting them on!

Regardless of what kind of iron collar you are getting when shopping for a joug please watch for deburred edges otherwise severe abrasions can happen!

Functional Collars

Bondage collar

Another quite common type of collars (p.e. from Mr S or Regulation). They basically are like a cuff style restraint just larger to fit around the neck. So very often you can get matching collars to your existing restraint set. Being made for play they come with d-rings to attach the sub to thing or restraint to the neck. Depending on the individual style some are locking which adds a sense of bondage. A pro tip: If you want to fetter a large boot, p.e. an MX boot, and your restraint set’s ankle cuffs are too small try out a collar. Most of the time they are large enough and will serve you well as a boot restraint.

Fetters Posture Collar

Fetters Posture Collar

Posture collar

A posture collar (look at Mr S or Regulation) is a more intense form of the bondage collar. It is quite wide and usually padded, sometimes it also has an anatomically formed chin rest. The effect of this design is that tilting of the head and nodding is getting extremely difficult locking the head in one place. Usually such a collar will also have d-rings and there are locking versions out there.

Chocking Collar

More a breathplay toy than just a simple collar please use this one with caution! This collar is basically a latigo leather belt that is closed by a rolling buckle tightly around the neck. On the other side of the belt is a small metal loop with a roller feature through which the belt exits. In that end a d-ring is added onto which a leash can be attached. If you pull on the leash the collar will tighten and chock the person wearing it.

Shock Collar

Shock collars were originally designed to train dogs. Onto a nylon collar a remote controllable box with two electrode pins is attached. Usually this kind of collars come with different intensity settings. I implore you to take advantage of these different settings and don’t start out too high! The shock boxes are designed to train even dogs which have thick fur and skin. On human skin they can leave burn marks or even damage the nerve system! There are fetish versions out there which are not so powerful but being a power bottom and pain pig myself I can see the temptations of “the real deal” especially when it comes to dog play. Yet still please be careful. Not sexual kink is worth losing your health permanently.

Fetters Wrist-to-Neck Restraints

Fetters Wrist-to-Neck Restraints

Wrist to neck Restraint

Not really just a collar but the leather version of an iron collar with attached restraints. It is a leather lined locking collar onto which two locking wrist restraints are riveted. These rivets allow for some movement around its axis but otherwise the head has to go where the hand wants to be. Especially with added bondage mitts this will leave the sub quite helpless.

Collars Accessories

Especially with the raise of pup and dog play in the last couple of years collar accessories have gained popularity. Most commonly dog tags are used either in their original purpose to mark the dog and write his name on it. But I have also seen a bouquet of different colored tags as hankies. Of cause a dog needs guidance and sometimes restraining so leather leashes become quite popular.

Mister B Double Faced Hoods

Mister B Doulbe Faced Leather Hood

Mister B Doulbe Faced Leather Hood

After the last two hood suggestions I got some mails asking for a bit more budget friendly suggestion. A hood I really enjoyed playing with but sadly don’t own yet is the Mister B Double Faced Leather Hood. The design is similar to the HML Isolation Hood I featured last week but has open eyes and lacks the ear padding. This makes it good for not so experienced subs who want the leather gimp look and feel but are freaked out by too much isolation.

Mister B Double Faced Rubber Hood Close

Mister B Double Faced Rubber Hood Close

Mister B Double Faced Rubber Hood Opend

Mister B Double Faced Rubber Hood Opend

Being made out of soft leather it can be worn for extended periods of time and is a great piece of gear when being restrained in a sleepsack. And with a price of 199€, it is not too expensive. For a even more budget friendly option Mister B also has a rubber version of the double faced hood for 149€.

Buyer’s Guide to Pup Gear

Ever since I started ToyTorture.com I have been asked why I don’t write about pup gear. There were two reasons for that: First I usually don’t write about fetish gear because there is no way to say that a is better than b when b makes you drool and a leave you cold. Second I am not into pup play and since I always try out the toys I write about myself and I don’t get the head space effect of pup toys I found no way to write about pup toys. But the mails and questions especially from kinkster just getting into the pup scene did not stopp. I have been woofed and growled at, my legs have been humped at events while asking for advice and I have been told that it would be totally pawesome if I wrote about pup gear. So as a Christmas treat (ok, enough now of the bad puppy jokes) I spent the last couple of weeks looking at pup gear, talking to pup players and I finally wrote this (Beginners) Buyer’s Guide to Pup Gear.

As always: If I have gotten something wrong or forgot something please let me know and help me improve this article.

Head Gear

What comes to mind first when you talk about puppy gear are the different puppy hoods. They come in two major styles: Full and open hood. Full hood encase the entire head. Since the pup play community has grown there are hoods out there for almost every breed of dog and they are made out of the major fetish materials rubber and leather. While the rubber ones come mostly only in classic black, there is a wide selection of different leather ones out there; just recently Mr S introduced custom leather puppy hoods catering to the most discriminating demands. Open hoods loosely resemble the style of head harnesses. They usually have a snout, ears and sometimes even a collar and come in rubber, neoprene and leather.

Not really specific puppy gear but purposes wise related are muzzles. Designed to keep the mouth of talkative subs or biting K9s shut they are more of a functional toy than designed to enhance the pup looks. You can get them made out of neoprene, leather or rubber, depending on your fetish and play style. The rubber muzzle from Regulation is quite sturdy but if you attach a leash onto it and the pup pulls to hard there is a chance that the rubber will tear. If the puppy is very active, stay with leather. I have talked to some guys who own puppy hoods and muzzles and they said that there are combinations where you can wear a hood and a muzzle. Sadly there is no general rule of thumb so if you want to wear both pieces of gear you have to try it out.

 

Tails

Another distinctive pup play toy is the tail. The most commonly used are tails that are attached to a butt plug. I would recommend the ones from Square Pegs because they are seamless and thus comfortable to wear even for a longer mosh or walk. They come in different tail shapes, colors and butt plug sizes. Choosing the right plug size is a bit difficult. I was told that it is useful to choose a plug one size larger than you can easily take because the tail stays in place even when you wag and romp without having to constantly pinch your sphincter. However the tail is of no use if you can’t insert it at all due to being too big. Another way of keeping the tail in place is wearing a special kind of harness.

This kind of tail has gained quite some popularity in the non-puppy ass play community: When you are wearing a tail while fucking someone the moving momentum of the tail gets transferred to the plug section which than stimulates the prostate.

If you don’t want to wear a plug-style tail Oxballs and Square Peg have recently introduced tails without the plug. The Square Peg one comes with a base and is designed to be put through a hole, or can be attached to a neoprene or leather harness, the Oxballs is designed to be attached to a special harness.

 

 

Collars

The origin of collars in the BDSM scene as a sign of submission and belonging come from the dog collars. So it is only natural that they fulfill the same purpose in the pup play community. Besides being an indicator they are also practical for attaching a leash or a dog tag.

Collars are probably the piece of pup gear with the widest selection of options. They come in nearly every material and color used in kink. Either coordinate it with your hood or harness or use the collar color as a hanky. If you want an inescapable feeling you can get locking ones or if you want some added play value I recommend getting a collar with more than one D-ring.

If the pup still needs training a shock collar might be the item to get. Especially for novice pups I would recommend shock collars made for BDSM purposes. If you choose one for dogs be real careful with the intensity. The electrodes and outputs are designed to even have a distinct effect when going through thick fur. Since with humans the electrodes touch bare skin on high intensity levels they can leave burn marks or cause nerve damage!

Mitts and Knee Pads

Since puppys tend to be on all fours while playing and the human being isn’t really made for this posture, protection is needed. Mitts are a little bit more fetish than security item. Usually a pup can see where he places his palms, so when choosing mitts the appearance is more important. The most commonly used types of mitts are either lockable bondage ones made out of rubber or leather which leave the pup at the mercy of their handler or mitts that have paw-like prints or cut-outs glued to the bottom. On the other hand knee pads are essential for long term pup play. When being on the knees for an extended period of time they provide comfort and protection, especially when walking around outdoor. They might not look sexy and I haven’t found ones yet tailored to the aesthetic demands of the pup community but every pup player I talked to highly recommended softly padded ones for every pup who enjoys kneeing and being on all fours for extended periods of time.

 

Harnesses

Finding the right harness for a puppy is a two step process: First you need to consider how active the puppy is. If you attach a leash to an active puppy via the harness its material should withstand greater forces so I would recommend buying a leather harness. Otherwise you can either choose rubber, leather or neoprene. The second question is the style: For a more “natural” puppy look I was told to rather take chest harnesses instead of full body harnesses. This doesn’t limit your options that much since in the last couple of years a lot of different chest harness styles – Bulldog, Pitbull, English, Top or Hunter – came out. Like with collars you can most of the times add a second color for piping to match the rest of your gear or express a certain preference hankylike.

Accessories and Play Toys

Once the puppy is full dressed in gear the is an endless amount of accessories out there. A good one to start with are dog tags so other pups and handlers can read the pup name. Besides the dog tags traditionally being made out of metal Oxballs designed cockrings with an attached dog tag so you can show your fetish even when being out in a club without and puppy gear.

When it comes to toys for the actual play, the possibilities are endless. The most common are dog bowls, bite and squeaky toys, either made for bio dogs or from special fetish manufacturers. Naming them all is impossible so I recommend going out to your local pet or fetish store.

 

Items designed for bio dogs

Some players want the real deal and buy stuff designed for bio dogs. In most cases they are a bit cheaper than BDSM toys and naturally of cause more authentic. But always keep in mind that they weren’t design for humans. Especially when it comes to collars they are designed to be worn over a thick fur so irritations are possible. If you want real dog gear I recommend trying it out even more thoroughly than you would do with normal BDSM gear even though that might get you some weird looks at the pet store.

What you should never do is eat real dog food! Most dog food has crushed bones mixed into in order to keep the teeth of dogs from getting too long. The human set of teeth and digestion organs are not design to deal with such food! If you want an almost dog-like appeal by dog treats, give the content to a bio dog and put beef jerky into them.

Blackstyle Mouthopener Gag

Vendor: Blackstyle

The Blackstyle Mouthopener Gag

The Blackstyle Mouthopener Gag

Construction

This gag is made out one piece of 1.4mm thick rubber. With a recess for the nose the main body of it is shaped ergonomically so it can be worn even by people with smaller heads without any problems. In the middle of the main body a quite sturdy rubber covered tube is glued. It has an external diameter of 44mm, an internal of 39mm and goes 32mm into the mouth of the sub. The strap is 30mm wide and ends in a roller buckle which is hold in place by a rivet. On the other side 6 rivet reinforced holes are punched into the strap allowing the circumference to be adjusted between 44cm and 54cm. The part of the strap holding the buckle as well as the area with the holes has been cut in the half, reinforced with fabric taped and glued together again.

Detail of the Roller Buckle with reinforced Holes

Detail of the Roller Buckle with reinforced Holes

Playing with it

Two major forms of play are possible with this gag: First of all the tube makes it ideal for forcing the subs to take substances into his mouth. Most obvious are spit and piss. But when you hold the subs nose and insert larger quantities of water the gag can be an interesting (and dangerous!) torture instrument. Secondly because of the large object being present in the sub’s mouth it encourages the body to produce saliva so it is a good gag for drooling. Depending on the sub’s salvia production and the amount of evaporation through the tube wearing this gag for an extended period of time can be an interesting swing of sensations between drooling and having a dry mouth. Don’t forget to rehydrate your sub when engaging into this form of play.

Detail of the Fabric Tape reinforced Rubber

Detail of the Fabric Tape reinforced Rubber

The third can be a problem or rather a trade-off lying in the nature of this gag: Because the tube has to be solid and a somewhat considerable diameter in order to fulfill its purpose it can be weary tiring to the jaw to wear this gag. This effect can be lessened a bit by training but please bear in mind that not every sub’s jaw is made for serving as a urinal for an entire night. However if you are into stress bondage this might be the gag to get.

Conslusion: Good all rubber gag for forcing subs to consumes substances
Pro Cons Where to get Price
All rubber Quite large tube diameter Blackstyle 49€
For a rubber toy quite sturdy design

 

Mr S Rubber Ball Gag

Vendor: Mr S

The Mr S Rubber Ball Gag

The Mr S Rubber Ball Gag

Construction

The main body of this ball gag has roughly the shape of a wrapped hard candy: The mouthpiece has a diameter of 42mm and a length of 49mm. It ends on both sides in triangular flaps so there is little stress on the corners of the mouth when wearing the gag. Onto the flaps the strap is riveted. It is 18mm wide, can be adjusted between 45cm and 55cm circumference and is made out of Mr S’ soft oil tanned leather like this ball stretcher. A nice tough are the pieces of leather covering the back side of the rivet. This minimize the contact between the rubber and the metal and absorb a bit of draft put in the rubber thus keeping it from overstretching.

While last week’s mouthpiece was on the firmer side the mouth piece of the rubber ball gag is quite soft and easy to bite into yet firm enough that you can rest your teeth comfortably on it. It is covered in rubber so it has no problem with saliva or piss. Despite being sturdy 1mm thick rubber I would recommend not using this gag if you have any sharp edges on your incisors.

Detail of the Leather Reinforced Rivet

Detail of the Leather Reinforced Rivet

Playing with it

I got this gag during my trip to San Francisco in May 2013. I had the intention of buying the deluxe ball gag in the world and ended up buying this one despite the other one being an awesome ball gag!

Through the reviewing process of gags I found two types of gag users which I like to call bounds and biters. The bounds enjoy the feeling of something solid in their mouth. They want the feeling of their mouth being in bondage and thus a too soft material isn’t doing the trick. Biters on the other hand have a more practical approach: They enjoy the functional value of a gag (like silencing or drooling) but when they want to sink their teeth into something that gives in. Sadly gag, especially ball gags, with a soft mouth piece are hard to come by. Since I belong to the latter group I choose the rubber ball gag over the deluxe ball gag.

Detail of the Buckle with the Oil Tanned Leather Strap

Detail of the Buckle with the Oil Tanned Leather Strap

From a functional point of view this ball gag performs great: The mouth piece is firm enough to let your teeth rest on it comfortably and “encourages” drooling, yet soft enough to enable a satisfying bite. This gag come sadly only with a one size fits all mouth piece. It fits most people but for people with smaller mouths it has a bit of a stress bondage aspect despite being soft and for larger mouths it can feel lost a bit.

Because the strap is mounted on the far side of the flaps the gag can be worn for extended periods of time without any problems. This is also largely due to the softness of the leather which hugs almost hugs onto the skull. From a practical point of view the rubber is easy to disinfect and because the flaps go way over the corners of the subs mouth the leather won’t come into contact with saliva.

Conslusion: Good, low maintenance ball gag with soft mouth piece
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Soft mouth piece with right degree of firmness Only one size Mr S $39
Comfortable to wear for long periods of time
Easy to clean

On Trying to Order a “custom” Surf Suit from Rubber Bob

The first piece of rubber I ever got was a size M surf suit from Blackstyle. When I got it, it fitted quite ok but over the last 2 ½ year I got a bit beefier around the chest and shoulders and sadly a bit wider around the belly. I also got used to color on my latex pieces and since an all-black cat suit as a basic piece is planned to come in 2014 I decided to get myself a new surf suit.

With money being a bit tight as a student (I know I should spend less on toys and more on gear) I looked for alternatives to the great yet more expensive German manufacturers. Rubberbob.co.uk was recommended to me by a bunch of my British Twitter followers. They told me he made basic pieces in good quality for great prices. When I first visited his website I was kind of… surprised by the layout and product pictures. Apparently the website is 13 years old. But if the quality of his products is up-to-date I do not really care about the business’ public appearance. Clicking through his offering I found that surf suits are called “Andy Style” and that you can e-mail them for custom modifications. So I got in touch with him in late October asking about a surf suit with a yellow zipper, two yellow stripes and yellow piping in 0.6mm black latex. As expected due to his focus on basic pieces the colored zipper and the piping weren’t possible. Due to the upcoming Christmas season I didn’t pursue getting a new surf suit any further.

On Wednesday I had a friend over for tea, put him into my rubber surf suit and he loved the look and the feel of rubber yet didn’t want to spend as much on his first piece as I did. Meanwhile I made plans to attend a rubber U35 piss party at the beginning or March in Karlsruhe which gave me a reason to get a new surf suit. So today I got in touch again with Bob this time asking if I could get two yellow stripes on the side and 5 instead of 3 runners on the zipper. He replied that the suit is made out of 0.45mm rubber, only comes with one yellow stripe and that no additional runners can be added. Since runners are easily added in Germany and I can live with one stripe I inquired if I could get the suit made out of 0.6mm rubber for of cause a higher price. He replied that he wishes me best of luck in finding a manufacturer that would match my requirements which left my kind of puzzled: Maybe I am spoiled by the waste amount of options I get offered for example when I am at RubAddiction, Rubber Factory or Blackstyle but simply taking a thicker rubber sheet and charging more for it is in my opinion not a crazy or difficult to fulfill task. So in the end I will probably keep my Blackstyle surf suit or turn to China and see if they are as good or as bad (depending on the source) as the internet claims they are.

Buyers Guide to Restraints

About every other week I get a message asking me about different aspects of choosing the right restraints. So in order to get back into writing articles, I condensed the collected answers into this piece. If you feel something is missing or have a recommendation, feel free to send me an e-mail.

 

Materials

Restraints can be made out of any material that is somewhat soft and can withstand force. Because of that I will only cover the most common ones you will come across in most stores. Some special kind of restraints like Segufix or everything only made out of metal will probably be featured in a future article.

Leather

It is the most common material to make restraints out of. It is very durable if taken correct care off, will withstand force and is soft and gentle to the skin – if you take the right leather. The right leather means a more softer (and mostly thinner) hide on the inside (mostly calf, lamb or fine cow) and a thicker, sturdier hide on the outside (mostly cow, bull, swine, but also kangaroo or buffalo).

Leather Restraints

Leather Restraints

I would advise you not to be doing too much of kinky on a budget when purchasing leather restraints. First they are an investment that will stay with you for many years and you will use in almost every scene, secondly in recent years east Asian manufacturers discovered the kink market. Their quality of products ranges from shocking to fairly decent. The biggest issue with any leather toys from Asia are that most hides are treat with chemicals like Chromium to save time and money. You will most likely wear this kind of leather on your bare skin which can lead to allergies. And unlike jeans p.e. you can’t wash restraints 10 times in order to get the chemicals out of there. This will not be the case with every leather toy you will get from East Asia but it is something to keep in mind, especially when you shop around on eBay. I would always recommend investing a few bucks more and support a local dealer who knows where is products come from.

Fabric

Most fabric restraints are made out of nylon but I have seen cotton, canvas and even cevlar ones. They are lighter and smaller than leather restraints and are mostly on the lower end of the price range. This makes them good for starters or if you want to keep a little emergency set in your toy box just in case you forget you bondage bag. Depending on the material they are really easy to clean and disinfect.

Rubber

There are two types of rubber restraints out there: the one made out of soft latex that is also used on fetish wear and thicker, harder rubber (in Germany we call them „old tires“).

As much as I love rubber as a material general speaking but for a few exceptions rubber restraints are not made for hard play. You can restrict movement with them but if someone really struggles or fights against them, they will probably break (I have destroyed three pairs so far in my BDSM career). The thicker rubber ones are able to withstand more force but are also stiffer. You can find them for little money on eBay but most of the time they just cut rubber mats in stripes and added a few metal piece. But due to being stiff the edges are hard and can cause bruises when struggling in them. If you purchase such restraints in a dedicated kink store the edges will most likely be deburred which makes them less harmful but they still won’t be comfortable.

If you want more comfortable rubber restraints go for the latex ones. They are as soft as any rubber attire piece. Sadly the comfort is traded in for durability. The manufacturers try to deal with the issue by putting fabric tape between two layers of latex. I am definitely not the strongest sub in the world and a layer of fabric tape between two layers of 0.9mm of latex didn’t stop me from tearing them apart. I have talked to my local kink master mind at Demask in Dortmund and he told me that Kevlar as a fabric is really the only way to make durable simple rubber restraints. But Kevlar is a difficult material to work with as is rubber and latex overall. Thus the prices for rubber restraints are rather high compared to leather ones. However there is a big benefit with rubber restraints: unlike leather they can get a dirty and wet as you want them to be. So if you want to restrain yourself or your sub in the piss area (or nastier places…), I would advise using rubber or…

Neoprene

There a number of different neoprene variants out there all of which I have seen turned into restraints. Covering every one would be too much for this article so please check at Wikipedia which one works best for you. All kinds of neoprene are sturdier than rubber and can deal with dirty, wetness and can deal fairly well even with oils so they are the material you want to use in a gunge or oil scene.

 

Construction

Restraints consist of a body and depending on the closing mechanism also a strap.

The body is the part you wrap around the part of the sub’s body you want to restrain.

There are three ways to construct a body:

  1. One piece non-folded: In this case the body is made out of one piece of sturdy (and hopefully somewhat comfy) leather. When purchasing make sure that the edges are not sharp so there is no injury possibility.

    Fold

    Trice Folded Leahter Restraint

  2. One piece folded: A folded one piece is made of a single piece of mostly a bit softer leather folded at least once so on one side you have a piping-like edge. The other side can feature a piping which is not really necessary when the leather is soft enough. Because a piping is always thicker than just a fold the restraint might look a bit imbalanced with piping just on one side. You will find a seam around the open side, good folded restraints also have a seam on the fold for added stability.
  3. Two pieces: Most leather restraints are a two piece construction with stiffer leather on top and softer leather (or fleece, fur, suede etc. as lining) on the inside. Between these layers padding can be added. Padding does not only make restraints more comfortable for long term wearing, they also can create pressure without cutting circulation when you tighten the restraints using a buckle (see below). Since you have two more or less stiff leather edges, good two piece restraints have a piping running around them to make them smoother. The advantage of piping is that it can be made in a different color this bringing a bit more color into your play bag or displaying your hanky.
Padding

Padding on a Leather Restraint

Straps, buckles, D-rings, etc. are mostly held in place by rivets holding down a leather strap (I have seen them sewed down but I strongly believe that just some thread holding down a d-ring a sub is pulling isn’t a good solution). With every construction but the one piece non-fold it is a personal or design decision if you want the counter part of the rivet touching your skin. Since the rivets are mostly made out of stainless steel there is no medical issue with them touching the skin, but the sensation at least at the beginning is a bit different since they are colder and harder than the surrounding leather. Because of that

most of the time the counterparts are put between two layers of leather or below the padding (a prominent example where it isn’t the case are the Mr S Fetters USA Padded Locking Restraints).

 

Closing

The most common method to close a restraint is using a strap with different types of clasps:

  1. Roller Buckle on a two piece Leather Restraint with Piping

    Roller Buckle on a two piece Leather Restraint with Piping

    Buckle: Probably the most traditional closing method that works like a belt. Good buckles have a roller buckle which makes pulling the strap through the buckle more easily. The hole spacing determines how accurately you can adjust the restraints. If the strap is made out of more than one piece of leather the holes should be reinforced by metal rings so that the pin won’t accidently harm the edges of the hole. This is not necessary if you use a locking restraints with eyelets because the “pin” is round and smooth (see below).

  2. Double D-ring: On the end of the strap there are two d-ringthrough which you thread the strap.The advantage of this kind of mechanism is that the restraints can be adjusted steplessly.
Bail closing with a 20mm padlock

Bail closing with a 20mm padlock

Not a clasp but still requiring a strap are bails. The strap has slots punched into it where you pull the bails through. In order to fix the restraints, you can use a carabiner or a padlock. Since the hole distance is mostly the same than with a buckle strap this kind of restraint is as tight as a buckle one but faster and locking. But you always need some hardware to close it.

If you don’t want to deal with a strap there are some restraints out there using (industry grade) Velcro. The advantage of Velcro is that it is easy to handle, steplessly adjustable and gives especially the newbie a sense of security (if something goes wrong, just pull it open).

 

Attachment Points

Once you have put the restraints on, you need to attach them to something in order to restrict the restraint person’s movements. I have seen restraints with just a leather loop sewed to the restraints. I am not really convinced that this will work because leather stretches out and as written under construction I don’t trust threads with holding down power subs. In my opinion the only real deal are D-rings. Most of them are made out of metal but I have seen ones made out of plastic. Because nowadays there are some amazing kinds of strong and durable kinds of plastic out there, I can’t really say anything against them. But I haven’t tried them out; if you have experience with restraints with plastic D-rings, please contact me.

D-Ring hold in place by rivets

D-Ring hold in place by rivets

The majority of metal D-rings are made out of stainless steel so they won’t break – if they are welded. In order to save money I have seen non-welded ones (on the bottom there is a little gap instead of a weldseam). If the force pulling on the D-ring is always directly opposite of the gap, this is no problem. But in most situation the force will pull on one or the other end thus pulling the D-ring open!

Regarding the number of D-rings that is really a personal choice. For “basic” restraints like wrist and ankle one D-ring per restraint is enough, but p.e. for a thigh restraint I would want at least three. General speaking more is better when it comes to the number of D-rings because it gives you more pervy options.

 

Locking

I know off two ways of building in a locking option into a restraint: the eyelet way and the Mr S way (I call it that way because I have only seen it used on restraints by Mr S). When using the eyelet way there is a small eyelet inside the pin of the buckle where you put a padlock through. The eyelet is usually big enough for a 20mm padlock.

Locking Buckle with Eyelet

Locking Buckle with Eyelet

The big downside of this method is that through the eyelet the pin gets fairly wide thus the holes in the strap have to be larger and can’t be reinforced by rivets. The last point is only a style thing: there is less metal on the restrains and the belt should be made out of a single piece of thick leather (s.o.). The first point is influencing play because due to the larger holes you can’t close the restraints in as fine pitches as with a normal pin buckle.

Mr S has found a solution for that: they take a normal pin buckle and put a stud with an eyelet behind the buckle. Once you have closed the strap in the buckle you fix the buckle in place over the stud and put a 20mm padlock inside the eyelet. Through this combination you can adjust the restraints finely and still lock it.

 

Types of restraints

Most people think of the leather cuffs for wrists and ankles when they hear restraints. But there are a lot of other cuffs out there so you can create a Segufix-like full body suspension: Cuffs for thighs, upper arms and belts for chest and hips. And for special purpose´s there are a ton of different special restraints out there like:

This list makes no claim of being complete because there are a lot of pervy minds out there creating new and exciting kink gear every day.

 

What restraints should I buy?

I have written this article to give a short (and probably incomplete) overview what aspects of a restraint impacts the play so you can make a decision what you want to look for when you shop around for restraints.

Double D-ring

Double D-ring

In my opinion even if you are a rope top you should at least have a pair of wrist and ankle restraints just in case you want to quickly suspend someone. If you are a sub you should own the perfect (and perfectly fitting!) restraints you want to have used on you so there is not disappointment when the top wants to restrain you and his don’t fit.

What specific restraints I would recommend really depends on your budget. You can get a pair of high quality leather restraints for around 50€ (like mine from McHurt), if you can deal with the uncertainty of the way the hides have been treated, pick up the ones from The Anubis Pack because you get entire basic set plus thigh restraints and collar for £56.If money isn’t really an issue I would recommend the locking restraints from Fetters USA from Mr S. I brought them over from the US for a friend of mine, they are great manufacturing and leather quality , are locking and have to D-rings, basically anything I would want in a pair of restraints but that comes with a price: $129.95 for the wrist restraints, $139.95 for the ankle restraints. What I would always recommend is going to your local kink store, try them out, get an experts opinion and buy what you feel comfortable with.

 

If you have any further question, you can always write me an e-mail, send me a tweet @ToyTorture or hit me up on Recon or PlanetRomeo at SubRub.