ToyTorture’s Stocking Stuffer I – Josh Herman X Harnesses

The Josh Herman X Fullbody Grant Harness

Hurry up perverts! Since Christmas Eve is on a Sunday this year, we have the shortest possible per-Christmas season in Germany because the fourth Advent Sunday is Christmas Eve. Thus there will only be three gift tips this year! So without further ado let’s jump right into it.

What to gift a kinkster who has everything? Accessories – or more precisely – a harness. They are the perfect piece of gear for hard play allowing the top to move around freely, giving him something to grab the sub and they make every hot guy even hotter. Sadly some leather makers fashion their designs and cuts only for twinks or average sized guys. Many members of our community are beefier and heavier build and simply scaling up cut does not do the trick! Josh Herman celebrates this body type with harnesses and accessories designed with thick guys in mind. Naturally his designs also fit average guys but if you have struggled to find a properly fitting harness, check him out.

The Bulldog Harness & Armband both with the Stirrup Grip

He features all the classic designs from Bulldog (starting $149.99) at  over Shoulder ($149.99) and Stampede ($174.99) to Grant Fullbody (starting at $174.99) – with an option to either directly attach the harness to a cockring or with little carabiners at the end so it works as suspenders. The Bulldog and the Grant Fullbody harness can be ordered with a so called Stirrup handle. This is a stirrup-like leather look riveted and sown onto the chest-traversing strap. It is the perfect addon if you want to get pulled closer.

The standard range of his leather is black, red, olive, blue and caramel. But judging from the pics on his social media he might be open to custom work in your favorite hanky color. You can either choose a solid color, have a contrast colored piping or just have the handle in a different color.

Josh Herman X’s Fullbody Stampede Harness

If you don’t want to invest into an entire harness, Josh Herman also offer smaller accessories like arm bands ($24.99) which can add a nice touch of color to an outfit or let you flag your favorite hanky in leather style. What especially intrigued me were the Stirrup Leather Arm Bands ($75) which add the niftiness of the stirrup grip to the biceps so you have something to hold onto while railing your bottom HARD. I wonder if he would also make them in thigh size.

Every year I get many questions from thicker guys where to buy gear. And to my surprise I have never noticed one of this unique leather pieces in Europe. So hopefully this gift tips helps you get a harness the makes you feel even sexier than you already are!

Breathing System – AVON Upgrade Kit

Vendor: VAST

Important Security Information

As hot and horny breath play is, NEVER DO IT ALONE OR BY YOURSELF! Every year we lose several members of the kink community to self breath play. No matter how much you think you have figured out the safety and falls backs, there is always a slight and sadly often lethal chance of it failing.

This especially applies to playing with inhalants like poppers or N2O/ laughing gas.

If you are curious about breath play, look for experienced partners to introduce you to this kink and its intricacies. Please just never do it alone!

An Upgraded AVON FM12

Two months ago I showed you how to upgrade an AVON FM12 in order to make it ready to work with the VAST Breathing System. As some of you might have noticed, I used the S10 Upgrade Kit to upgrade an FM12. Back when the Breathing System was first introduced, it was the only upgrade kit available. As you can see, it works perfectly. But if you have an FM12, you can save you some trouble and 10€ if you buy the correct kit right away.

For the Breathing System to work properly, the gas mask needs to fit tightly on the face. This can be done using the standard straps of your gas mask. But for added fetish value, VAST offers a head harness made out of their Superior Latex. I will take a look at this add-on in a small bonus review coming December 6th, Saint Nicholas Day in Germany.

The Mounting Insert with the different Tunnel Inserts


The Upgrade Kit consists of two groups of elements: One group is used to turn the standard mono-directional breathing of a gas mask into closed circuit for breath play. For this you first need to replace the front unit where the used air is exhaled with a mounting insert and sealing cap. Then you replace the speaking valve with an exhalation valve (S10) or change the breathing direction of the right GM40 port with a screw-in valve (FM12). The other group are a flashlight classic and a flashlight GO inserts and three simple tunnels (internal diameter: 40mm, 45mm and 50mm) you can screw into the mounting insert for added fun. To help you upgrade your gas mask, the kit comes with a stainless steel tool, silicone grease and plastic care.

All elements are 3D printed. For the first batches they sometimes used a dark blue polymer because it was sturdier so some of my elements are this shade. They have now found a black one with equal properties so you should get all black toys with the typical silky-rough surface of a 3D printed object. This manufacturing process also explained the price: Especially the larger items take hours to print and require a lot of polymer. Due to the small numbers these toys will be made cheaper manufacturing methods like die casting is not an alternative. So like with many kink toys you have the pay a premium for premium quality toy.

The Exchanged Front Unit and Exhale Valve

Being 3D printed, all elements fit perfectly into each other and are air-tight. The air seal is supported by the silicone grease which also makes all parts move smoothly. Do not use oil based lubrication for these toys! Oil and grease will damage and destroy rubber and latex! Since the gas masks, hoses and rebreathing bags for breath play are made out of rubber, you will harm these elements permanently.

Like most elements of the Breathing System the Upgrade Kit comes in a nice wooden box with foam cut-outs to store the individual elements. Since some elements are permanently installed in the gas mask, about half the box is empty after the upgrade process. But it is still a nice touch and adds to the value of the kit, especially if you want to gift it.

Playing with an Upgraded AVON Gas Mask

In order to use the VAST Breathing System with a (gas) mask need a model with two separate GM40 ports and unidirectional airflow (in through one port, out through the other). There are some rubber makers who manufacture specific breath play (gas) masks with these properties but they are quite expensive. Most military or civilian gas mask like the old UDSSR, German, Danish or Israeli ones only have one port.

The Installed Fleshlight GO Holder

Because of this VAST chose to offer an upgrade kit for the AVON S10 and FM12 respirators, one of the most common gas masks in the fetish scene. The FM12 already has two ports, the S10 can easily be converted to fit a second one. With a little bit of skill and strength, even a clumsy person like me can upgrade one of those masks. For people not very familiar with these gas masks, the steps are not intuitive and sadly at least my very early version of the upgrade kit did not come with instructions. Because of this I made this little tutorial. Once you have understood what to do and have the tools at hand, it should take you 10-15 minutes to upgrade the masks. The provided upgrade tool is nice and helpful. Without it I am not sure if I could have upgraded my masks because the blade of a screwdriver is narrow and has a straight blade. Still, please be careful when handling the tool because it has pointy ends. During the upgrade process I managed to give myself some small, superficial wounds.

If you do not want to play with a gas mask or don’t want to upgrade your AVON respirator, VAST offers a Medical Face Mask with a Splitter and a Superior Latex Head Harness to attach it to the head. This is good because sadly due to age, the Brexit and gas masks being export and import restricted armaments in most countries, AVON gas masks have become hard to come by, especially outside the UK. So it is good to have an alternative.

A Classic Fleshlight Turning the Gimp Into a Fuck Pussy

If you need the other elements of the kit depends on your personal playing style. I very much enjoy the tunnel inserts. They allow to facefuck or force feed the sub without taking him out of his gas mask/ drone headspace. Theoretically you could fuck him through the hole of the mounting insert but the tunnels cover the sharp edges of the thread. Also, unscrewing the sealing cap and installing a tunnel gave some very gimpy subs an extra kick because they are being manipulated like an object or refitted like a machine. The internal diameter covers the most common range of dick diameters. Though is you are very well endowed, the max. internal diameter of 50mm might be a bit too tight. If you struggle with tightness or want to enjoy the smooth friction of the tunnel walls, you can use both water or silicone based lubes to make your dick slide through more easily. To clean the tunnels afterwards, simply handwash them with warm soap water. The polymer the parts are manufactured out of is quite sturdy but I would not trust it to be dishwater safe.

The next level of objectification are the Fleshlight (GO) holder. The Fleshlight maker offers a wide range of designs from greedy mouth over slutty ass to technical, almost drone-like designs. Each different front has a different texture inside. So you can choose into what object you want to turn your slave into. Naturally the Flashlights are too long so you need to shorten them using a sharp bread knife. The final length depends on if you want a seamless transition from Fleshlight to slave mouth.

In order to Leave Space for the Sub’s Head, the Fleshlight needs to be Shortened

Some testees were driven wild by the look and headspace of turning their gimp into a fuck/ ass/ hole face. Personally, this did nothing for me. So my advice is to give it a dry run fucking the gas mask without a gimp because shortening it accordingly.

Some testees rightfully criticized that the upgrade kit is only sold with the different inserts and addons. They are a nice to have but personally I rarely use them and could very well live without them. Being big 3D printed objects they are probably a considerable part of the final kit price. Or in other words, expensive pieces of gear some people will have lying around unused. Because of this I would love to see the real upgrade parts being offered separately from the inserts.

However, I love the concept of the interchangeable front cover! I have already so many new cover ideas: An ash tray, a drink tablet, toilet paper holder, a chew gag on the inside, a piss funnel. The creative minds at VAST will probably come up with even more perverted ideas. So I look forward to the future of the system and its expansion.

Conclusion: Necessary tools to make an AVON respirator Breathing System ready bundled with some not really necessary accessories.



Where to get


All the necessary party to make AVON S10/FM12 ready for the breathing system

A bit difficult to install


S10 Kit 259€

FM12 Kit 249€

Interchangeable cover for added play options

Only sold in a bundle with different screw-in add-ons

Savage (Sucks) Hood

The Mr S Leather Savage Sucks Hood

Vendor: Mr S Leather (US) & Regulation (EU)

As the pre-Christmas season and shopping-wise Black Friday approaches, the number of questions about higher end pieces of bondage increases. Like the past few years I switch up a gear for the coming weeks to bring you the best in once-in-a-lifetime-purchase leather bondage gear reviews.


The Savage Hood are full-head encapsulating pieces of head gear. The are four panel constructions so with additional structuring seams around the neck. The nose is anatomically shaped and specious enough for larger noses. These things all lead to a great anatomically approximation and an overall great fit.

At the back a wide piece of leather covers the gap between to panels so the hood can fit many different head sizes. Left and right of this gap from almost the temple down to the bottom runs two lines of high quality cinch rings. Through these rings a piece of nylon rope is threaded. Both the rope and rings are heavy duty so when you pull the rope hard to fasten the hood tight around the head you do not need to fear of any element giving in.

The Cinch Rings and the Perforated Leather

The hood itself is made out of high quality garment leather which is perforated all over. It is a bit lighter than the leather on other Mr S hoods but this does not impact the overall high quality feel. Due to the many holes, the hood is well ventilated. So there is considerably less leather smell when you put on the hood.

All edges are piped with smooth leather so there are no rough or unfinished edges. This review is mainly based on the Savage Sucks Hood which has a chin cut out which of course is also lined with piping.

Playing with the Savage (Sucks) Hood

Being made out of perforated leather, the Savage hoods are designed to be breathable. At first I was skeptical how much ventilation actually comes through since the holes are very small and delicate. The hood was put to test at sunny pride parades, stuffy play parties and sweat inducing heavy play scenes. All testees reported that they were able to breath more easily and manage the heat build-up around the head better. This is also due to the leather being a bit thinner than for example on the Bag Hood. Even when fastened tight the leather still wraps lightly, almost airily around the head. Due to this the Savage hoods are not made for heavy bondage guys who crave the feeling of being tightly wrapped in leather.

The Piped Chin Opening and Anatomically Molded Nose

On the other hand, it makes the hood a good beginners hood or for people who struggle a bit with claustrophobia. Like the Bag Hood there is no tight bondage feeling of the leather grabbing and pressing against the skull. It is a caressing feeling of soft, high quality leather enveloping the sub’s head.

The perforation is spaced well enough to allow for quite proper field of view. Naturally everything is darker and especially at the outer edges, the view is obstructed. But overall the view is fine to operate and orientated independently and confidently, especially in well lit surroundings. Dark playrooms and clubs can be a bit of a challenge but most subs adjusted quickly. These properties makes the Savage hoods the perfect gear when your sub wants to remain anonymous in public settings. Conversely if you want to take take the sight from your sub, you will need to add a blindfold.

The Four Panel Design of the Hood with Structuring Seams

From a gear “fashion” point of view, I love the Savage hoods as a base-layer for other head gear. One of the hottest and most functional look is putting a muzzle or a Bishop Head Harness over the Savage hood. Especially with the Savage Sucks it creates a very smooth look as it covers the chain cut out. For a more artistic look the Fetters Strap Head Cage makes for an interesting contrast between the smooth surface of the perforated leather and texture the many straps add. Since the Strap Head Cage is locking, it also makes this leather prison inescapable. This can also be achieved when you lock the Mr S Heavy Duty Posture Collar to the neck. The Chin Plate gives the non-existing face a nice frame and accentuates the anonymity – or even more focuses the attention on the mouth with the Savage Sucks.

Speaking of the Savage Sucks chin cut out: During I put this hood onto many different body types and head shapes. The chin cut out almost always aligned perfectly giving the hood a very finished look. It is opened enough for the mouth to open completely to swallow even big dicks or getting deepthroated hard and deep.

Conclusion: Hot looking hood with cool ventilation



Where to get


Unique and hot look

thus not the most intense bondage feeling

Mr S Leather

Savage $249.95

Savage Sucks $269.95

Good field of view when wearing it

Fastening strap being made out of nylon instead of leather


Savage Sucks £289

Very airy and light…

Fetters Braided Cat o Nine

The Fetters Braided Cat o Nine

Vendor: Regulation


The name of this whip is telling: Each of the nine falls is braided out of four thin leather straps. At the end they are finished with a small knots so the ends form little four fall “floggers”. The straps are made out of soft, medium density, low weight cow hide. This in combination with a tight and neat braid give the falls a very high quality feel and appeal.

At a first glance the handle looks equally elaborate. A black and red braided leather pummel on top covers the attachment points of the falls to the handle. This pummel also houses a leather patch with the Fetters logo embossed into it which I find an interesting location at best (see below). A single strap of what feels like latigo leather lines the handle in one spiral. It is attached to the core with four seams. At the bottom there is yet another black and read leather pummel which houses a quite long latigo leather loop. Speaking of bottom: The pummel only covers the side of the core not the bottom giving it a bit of an unfinished feel.

All things considered, the grip is very economically designed with an aspiring premium leather appeal. Form followed function here while you can see where corners were but. But considering the price of the toy it is exceptional value for money. Yet compared to other whips and floggers with braided grip cover and loops, a pummel that is used to really attach the falls to the grip instead of just covering the attachments points, this Braided Cat o Nine is a bit more basic especially compared to the flogger from the same range. Considering the cost these are minor points because…

The Latigo Loop hold by a „Lateral“ Pollem and thus unfinished Bottom

Playing with the Braided Cat o Nine

from a play point of view, it is even better value for money!

At first I was skeptical how well this toy would perform. With all the tails just laterally “attached to a stick” I wondered how well they would fly. Turns out, actually pretty great! Even at low intensities all tails fly precisely into the direction they are thrown without any breaking out. Targeting is easy making this toy surprisingly suitable for beginners. This property is supported by the low weight and still good balance point which is about at 4/5 of the handle length. You do not need much technique to rein in the momentum heavier floggers can develop while throwing.

Detail of the Braided Fall with the Finishing Knot

The overall great handling is a bit compromised by the Fetters logo tag. If the tag is in the throwing direction the tails break away. Since you usually do not turn the handle while whipping, simply make sure that the tag is facing you when picking up the whip so it should not be a problem. Annoyingly – at least at my whip – the tag was not a 100% aligned with the leather loop. Especially when the loop is not broken in, it wants to sit comfortably on your wrist. So you intuitively start to turn the handle until the loop sits comfortably – and the tag gets a bit in the way again. Over time you will learn to compensate the tag but especially at the beginning it is extremely irritating especially for beginners.

Which is a shame because overall, this toy is a surprisingly good beginner’s whip despite leaning towards sting due to the light weight. The combination of the great flying properties combined with the light and soft leather allow the top to caress and teas the bottom’s back lightly at low intensities. Because the falls are so light, I would not consider it a warm-up toy. The strokes are simply too light to increase the circulation sufficiently. As soon as you ad heft to your blows, the sting and intensity ramps up quickly. The sensation is of course focused on the knots which bite but the bottom will most likely also feel the scratch of the short tails behind the knots. These multitude of sensations is the greatest feat of this whip: Once you have learned to wield it properly, it offers many different sensations. Targeted precisely the end of the small floggers can just scratch the skin. Hitting exposed or raised areas of the back just right, almost only the knots hit. Throwing it like a flogger the is a bit of thuddy feeling along the impact area – until the tail ends sting like a lightning. So completely mastered the Fetters Braided Cat o Nine tails is truly a multitrick pony.

The Top Pummel with the Fetters Logo and the Leather Lined Handle

Speaking of great sensation range: Because the hanging loop is so long, it can be used as an impact of of its own. The pain is not sever but being made out of thin latigo leather, it bits a bit. Since the bottom expects a whip like impact sensation, teasing him with it it or inflicting agony when precisely targeting bruised areas adds to the wide range of possibilities with this whip.

Conclusion: Easy to throw whip with wide range of sensations and basic fitments.



Where to get


Wide range of possible sensations

Annoyingly placed logo patch which impairs the handling



Easy to handle and throw

Handle design cuts corners

Good value for money

Selection of McHurt Bats

The McHurt Mini Teacher’s Bat, Mini Bat, Long Bat & Padded Long Bat

Vendor: McHurt

Before I start this review, a word on McHurt in general. Founded in 2007, their mission is to bring functionally high quality kink toys at affordable prices. Based in Berlin-Tempelhof, they were the first kink shop I have ever visited back in the summer of 2008. Some of the clamps that I have bought at that visit I still used and treasure today. They have an online shop but their in-store offering is WAY bigger. They have the a very large selection of different impact toys and I personally own at least fifty different ones from them.

Their core audience is more the straight scene which is reflected in their products. In 2022 I sent them drafts for two wooden impact toys because I could not find a maker to make them for me. They refused, saying my reviews are too critical because the gay scene has higher quality expectations than the straight one. So when I talk about their toys, keep this and their name in mind: From a functional point of view, they are great and will last you a lifetime. And the prices are incredible. But to achieve this they have to cut some small corners which I gladly allow to pass considering the value you get.


All the toys I am looking at today are so called bats, also called blades. They all have a short grip section which than tapers into a narrow and long – in case of the leather ones slightly cone-shaped – impact area and a rounded tip. All toys feature a hole at the end through which a leather loop is threaded to secure the toy to your wrist and for easy storage.

The leather bats are made out of two layers of very thick and stiff bridle leather. The leather and stitching come in some “kinky” colors like black and reds. Between them sits a piece of spring steel for added sturdiness. If you hit HARD or store the toy bent, the toy can deform a bit (this often happens to me when I cramp the toys in my toy bag). Once taken out simply bend it in shape again. Both leather pieces are glued together and sown around making these toys virtually indestructible. The edges are beveled, deburred and burnished for a nice and quality feel and look. The wrist loop is a little bit more basic with a piece of soft garment leather split in the middle to form a loop.

The two-layer construction of the Leather Bats. On the Right you can see a bit of deformation which you can easily bend back into shape

The small bat is 280mm long of which about 160mm can be used for impact, depending on your palm size. The maximum width is 33mm on the small one and 48mm on the long one which has an overall length of 420mm. At least 280mm of the length can be used for hitting.

The Long Bat comes in a padded version which sadly is not available on their website (if interested, simply write them a mail). On this toy one side is completely covered with medium-firm foam and lined with smooth garment leather.

Example of the manufacturing quality „shortcomings“ like split leather loop, the uneven stitching or not oiled hole in the wooden paddle for the leather loop. All these imperfections do not impair the play properties and are just esthetic!

The (Mini) Teacher’s Bat is made out of beautiful rosewood. It has been painstakingly sanded and oiled for a smooth finish with really brings out the grain and character of the wood – except the countersunk hole for the loop which edges are not oiled. It is great that the wood is oiled instead of lacquered like on other wooden toys I know. Lacquer has the tendencies to crack and splinter off over time leaving an ugly, rough surface. Speaking of smooth, the shape and edges has been rounded very well. It almost feel like a worry stone. Cross-section of this toy is almost oval. The wrist loop is made out of leather lace which I like a lot more than the split garment leather on the bats.

The Mini Teacher’s Bat is 265mm long of which roughly 160mm can be used. At the widest point it is 45mm wide. Sadly I don’t own the Teacher’s Bat – I cannot have (and store!) ALL the toys in the world, can I? – so the length of 460mm and width of approx 50mm comes form McHurt’s website. Considering the size similarity to the Long Bat, I just assume it can be wielded like the Long Bat.

Both wood and leather need about the same level of maintenance. After play, wipe them off with a wet cloth. If body fluids have been drawn, spray them with a sanitizer. Over time, this will dry out the material. The wood can be brought back to style using a paper towel with a bit of olive oil, for the leather use the leather care of your choice (personally I use Lexol but you can ask your boot black of choice)-

Playing with the Bats

Bats are some of the most universal impact toys out there. Their thin footprint makes them the perfect choice from large areas like the ass and thighs to more delicate ones like the soles of the feet for bastonado/ falaka or the palms of your sub’s hands. Especially on the latter body areas, be careful with the intensity as the small bones in the hands and feet break easily! With a bit of practice you can precisely target the blows to the very sensitive body area where the ass cheeks transition to the thighs or the inside of the thighs. The smaller versions of the toys are great for targeted, small area impact like glans spanking, ball smacking or nipple hitting.

The rounded shape and flowing lines of the Mini Teacher’s Bat

The relatively thin impact area naturally focuses the kinetic energy on a small body area. So an equally intense blow with a bat will feel more intense than with standard paddle. For an ever more focused blow, hit with the side of the bat! This is even more important considering the material these toys are made out of. The bridle leather is very dense and stiff and the wood, well… is wood. There is little give or softness in the material so all toys are stingy. Surprisingly the rounding of the wood makes it feel smoother so it is a bit less stingy than the wooden counterparts. An exception of course is that padded side of the Long Bat. Even intense, focused blows are thuddy making it a truly universal toy.

Due to the stiffness of the material, all bats are great for tapping. The intensity can be very gradually adjusted because there is almost no flex. The Mini Bat is also good for snapping. Despite the flexibility of the leather and the spring steel you can build up tension easily. This process will deform the toy over time but you can easily bend it back in shape. Due to its rounded shape, the Mini Teacher’s Bat is not perfect for snapping. The smooth shape simply makes it hard to keep it from slipping and this building tension.

Comparing the Padded and regular version of the Long Bat

Tapping can be used for warm-up but it is a sub-optimal process. It either takes very long or once you increase intensity, you already deal out quite the intensity beyond warm-up. Unless you have to Padded Long Bat. The padded side is equally perfect for warm-up and long, intense sessions with novices or more thud-loving bottoms. The only downside for warm-up is that due to the narrow blade, it takes a bit longer to cover a large body area like the ass or thighs compared to a classic paddle. But once you switch sides, you have the flash-like sting of the firm, dense bridle leather! If you only have ONE impact toy in your toy collection, the Padded Long Bat is actually the perfect choice offering – albeit focused – thud and sting. These properties makes it a good beginner’s to to start out with so it has become my go-to gift if I want to give a novice top something to start out with.

This is also due to the easy handling. You can easily target your blows and finely tune the intensity. One drawback is that due to the shape bats are always unbalanced. They are head-heavy and overtime can tire out your wrist. Especially since due to the stiffness and the narrowness there is a bit of “blowback”. On the plus side if you keep your rhythm the toy develops momentum, bit like a flogger, making the impact easier – especially on the long ones.

Conclusion: Easy to handle and versatile impact toys for a great price!



Where to get


Wide range of sensations and hitting modi, especially on the padded one

Unbalanced and giving “blowbacks”

Mini Bat


Easy to handle

Long Bat


Ceteris paribus good manufacturing quality

Padded Long Bat (not available online; write a mail)


Exceptional value for money

Mini Teacher’s Bat


Teacher’s Bat


Ouch Silicone Paddle

The Ouch Silicone Paddle

Vendor: Vuxen

Sometimes reviews take strange ways: About one year ago I have bought this paddle from Bens Wild in Germany. When I wanted to link the review to their product page, it turns out that they no longer sell this exact paddle but a new one from 665 Leather which due to the bendiness makes me wonder how controllable it will be… After some research I found the paddle on, apparently part of a Scandinavian online sex, party business and dog product (I start to spot a theme there…) conglomerate called Pure Fun Group. I have never shopped there – neither online or in person – so if you buy from them, let me know how your customer experience was!


The first thing you notice on this toy is the round ring on the end of the paddle. It is connected to the grip with a short and thin bar. I was skeptical how much physical force this fragile looking connection could withstand. But even when tugging on it when trying to pull the paddle from the storage hook in a sub-optimal angle or loosing grip of the paddle in full swing while securing it to my wrist with a loop it did not show wear of even tear.

The 170mm long grip tapers very smoothly and has great ergonomics even for people with smaller hands. For people with large hands it might be a bit too thin and narrow but none of my testees complained. The tapering flows into the impact blade. It is 210mm long and 58mm wide at a thickness of 6mm. One side of the paddle is covered in a shallow diamond-shape pattern which gives it the impression of being quilted. Around the edge runs a 4mm wide flat bulge. The other side is smooth except a thin band of 0.2mm wide and 3mm long bumps which should give the impression of a seam running around it.

The Funily Looking Hanging Loop

On the side there is an actual seam running around which is very thin, shallow and deburred speaking for the production quality of this two-piece mold paddle. When you fold the impact blade towards the middle you can see the 12mm wide spring steel blade which runs through the entire toy.

According to an old product page I found in the Internet Archive the paddle is made out of sadly yet again buzz-wordy “medical grade silicone” which feels like Shore A30. But this classification makes me optimistic that both the coloring agent and the silicone are body-safe. The paddle held up well when I put it through the cleaning paces: Putting it into the dish washer worked fine. Due to the metal spring in the core I would not recommend boiling it. If you want to be extra sure, you can clean it with bleach. While vinegar cleaner is safer to handle, it can tarnish the surface so I would not recommend it. Speaking of the surface: It is very scratch resistant. In combination with silicone not really aging I will be a toy that will be in your toy bag for years even with little maintenance.

The Smooth Side with the Seam Pattern Running Around

Playing with the Ouch Silicone Paddle

Compared to the last review the spring in the middle is a game changer – or rather a necessity when working with a soft material like silicone. It gives the toy the stability to actually make it usable it all. It also increases the play style and sensation range. From light taping of the balls with just the tip to tender strokes for warm up to hard blows much is possible. The spring steel’s rigidity is in a sweet spot: It is flexible enough for easy, bouncy spanking while rigid enough not to change shape when bend or flung intensely even over extended periods of time.

Being made out of silicone I expected this paddle to be severer on the pain side. While it is far from tame or even thuddy, with a bit of experience and only applying light force, you can do some kind of warm-up with this toy. As soon as you put in more kinetic energy, the sensation will soon turn to intenser sting. However, to really hurt, you have to put in much force! Due to the spring being bendy a considerable amount of kinetic energy does not get transferred onto the body. But if you want to make a bottom scream, you can do it with this paddle.

The two different surface textured hold a surprise for me. I was expecting the diamond pattern to be the more severe one. But since the pattern is so shallow there is no noticeable focusing on the “peaks”. It actually feels like the shallow recesses form air cushions, softening the blows. Due to the material being so smooth and the surface velvety soft, there no abrasion even when pulling the toy perpendicularly in during the impact. More painful is the untextured side. The kinetic energy gets evenly transferred onto the body. Since the seam is so thing and shallow you do not feel at all.

Showng the Spring Steel on the Textured Side

From an ergonomic point of view the Ouch Paddle is ok. The impact area is wide enough to spread the sensation over a larger body area. For hitting delicate body parts like where the thigh meets the ass or the palms or feet soles it could be a bit thinner but than it is a paddle and not a blade. With a bit of practice you can also hit these areas precisely. Due to the light weight and the powerful spring, the paddle is a bit unbalanced. The spring will develop a momentum you will have to counter with your wrist. So in extended scenes the paddle can tire out your wrist.

For the audio freaks, this paddle is a well of joy! None of my paddles make such a loud, deep and rich smacking sound. During warm up, it is noticeable. When you hit full force, you will draw attention to you. Like with soft and thuddy flogger – for example deer skin ones – in medium-range intensity the paddle sounds way more intense than it actually feels. Thus is it a great tool to fuck with your sub’s – and if you are doing show scenes – audience’s mind.

Conclusion: Versatile and low maintenance impact toy.



Where to get


Surprisingly wide range of intenstiy

A bit unbalanced


199 sKr

Nice, intense sound

Considering the material and manufacturing process quite expensive

Well build

Comically looking hanging loop

Tantus Snap Strap Paddle

Tantus Snap Strap „Paddle“

Vendor: Peep Show Toys, Sinful and many more

Tantus products have been popping up at internet and brick & mortar sex shops but surprisingly not BDSM and kink shops, I wonder why… Because of this there have been several reader questions especially about the Snap Strap Paddle. Since the toy doesn’t break the bank, I have bought one to see what is what. Oh boy, was I not prepared for what I have gotten…


The toy starts out with an oval tapering grip. At 12mm thickness, 130mm length and tapering from 43mm to 33mm it is somewhat ergonomically if your hands are not too small. But the edges are rectangular instead of rounded making holding the toy a bit uncomfortable. On the plus side is a hole in the grip for hanging the toy more easily. Though you have to add a loop yourself.

On top of the grip sits the impact blade. It is 320mm long and 51mm wide but only 3.3mm thick. Because of this I find the name of the toy a bit misleading or imprecise: It is clearly a strap, not a paddle.

The Firm Edges of the Grip

It is made out of “Tantus’ own unique blend of ultra-premium silicone.” which I would guess being somewhere around Shore A30 firmness or in this regard stiffness. While the material designation is no guarantee that is it actually body-safe 100% platinum silicone it held up well when I put it through some cleaning paces with putting it in the dish washer and boiling it. Even bleach did not tarnish the velvety smooth surface making tin as a catalyst unlikely. The material is quite scratch proof so this toy will last you long even when caring little for it.

Since there is a fine, surprisingly deburred seam running around it, the toy has most likely been casted in a two-piece mold. In the making only silicone has been used. Unlike other impact toys made out of silicone or leather, there is not metal spring inside…

The Extend of the Softness which makes the Strape impossible to Handle

Playing with the Snap Strap Paddle

…. which is a big issue! Lacking the added structural integrity of metal, the Strap is impossible to control. It just flaps around, making precise blows almost impossible. It is even hard to make the blade hit the impact area parallel since the blade has the tendency to twist downwards. This detrimental property is somewhat independent from the energy you put into the blow. Due to the softness and inertia of silicone compared to well-broken in leather straps there is a maximum of force that will straighten out the blade. From some point on added energy will only make it flap more. It really makes it a comically, a novelty toy instead of BDSM tool you can rely on. Sadly due to all these issues there is not novelty sound effect: No matter how hard or in what way you hit, you cannot produce a satisfying snap sound the product name advertises.

The only way to somewhat control this toy with medium energy is to strike downwards. But even with this simple motion parallel towards the force of gravity, the strap breaks out. If you land a blow, it is comically how “soft” it feels. Due to being made out of a stiff thin synthetic material the sensation leans towards sting. But comparing the kinetic energy you put into the blow which how little sensation the bottom feels is almost hysterical.

Due to this, you cannot build a scene with this toy. In order to somewhat straighten the blade, you always have to put in much force. But even if you do this, you do not know how much of the force will actually hit the bottom. Light tapping and warm-up is impossible. Even if you grab the blade in the middle thus shorten it and make it more controlled, the grip starts to flap around like an excited dog’s tail, unintentionally hitting the bottom.

The Softness is due to the Blade being Very Thin

To add potential injury to insult, being so poorly constructed, the toy is nowhere nearly balanced. The flopping around makes it impossible to establish an impact rhythm. If you should decide to do an entire scene or just a portion with this toy – which you absolutely should not! – your wrist will tire quickly.

All things considered this impact toy isn’t even cheap. At 15€ I would have said, it is a nice novelty item you gift a kinky friend for his birthday. But at around 40€ it is serious money! If you want sub-30€ impact toys, look at McHurts Mini Bat or Mum’s Little Punishment or the Mini Teacher’s Bat and Lady Rosewood for non-leather options (I guess I have to review these toys soon cause I own all of them…). But next week I will review a less expensive but way better silicone toy!

Conclusion: Overpriced novelity item unfit for serious BDSM scenes.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
  Impossible to control 39,99€
Uncomfortable grip Peep Show Toys $39.00
Tiring to use
Surprisingly expensive

How to Upgrade your FM12 to work with the VAST Breathing System

Important Security Information

As hot and horny breath play is, NEVER DO IT ALONE OR BY YOURSELF! Every year we lose several members of the kink community to self-breathplay. No matter how much you think you have figured out the safety and falls backs, the is always a slight and sadly often lethal chance of it failing.

This especially applies to playing with inhalants like poppers or N2O/ laughing gas.

If you are curious about breath play, look for experienced partners to introduce you to this kink and its intricacies. Please just never do it alone!

Ever since I introduced the VAST Breathing System here and showed the Upgrade Kit in the Unboxing, I was asked how to modify an existing AVON gas mask. It took my some time to secure another AVON gas mask because I did not want to mess with one of my old ones. For photo, play and collection purposes I wanted to keep them in their original state.

A couple of weeks ago I have bought an AVON FM12 at UK eBay and had a friend bring it over into the EU personally. I would not recommend shipping a gas mask from the UK into the EU because they can be considered armaments. This can get you into serious troubles.

In this article I show how to upgrade an FM12. But it should basically work the same way with an S10. For good measure I also show at the end how to switch the net to the VAST Head Harness made out of superior latex.

Please do not be puzzled if the pics sometimes show modifications I will explain later in the article. In the process I made some dumb decision and figured out that it would make sense to do other steps first. So the steps and pics now come in the best order in my opinion.

Important: In order to work with the VAST Breathing System – like with the Rebreather – there as to be a unidirectional airflow inside the mask.  So DON NOT REMOVE THE ONEWAY VALVE on the intake port! This is a major different to modifying your gas mask for directly attaching rebreathing bags!

You start with removing the cover of the air outtake.

Then remove the net from the back so you can easily access everything inside the mask.

Next, carefully take the drinking tube and then the respirator mask off.

On top of the air outtake unit runs a metal ring. Carefully remove this ring with the provided too. Be extremely careful because when you slip you can damage the rubber. Small dents close to the opening are not an issue because the hardware you will put in is a bit large and thus will cover the area.

Once you have removed the ring, you can now take the entire unit out.

Now you have to remove the speaking valve by removing the ring around it on the inside. This is best done with long-nose pliers. If you want retrofit your gas mask later, be careful not to damage the ring. I managed to break it. Again, be careful not to damage the rubber.

To prepare the gas mask for the mounting insert, warm the rubber around it with a hair dryer in order to make the material more flexible.

In order to fit the mounting insert, put the female thread through the front hole, hold the male threaded part at the back and turn the female part until it fits snuggly.

Repeat the same steps starting with heating the area around the hole for the exhalation valve. Make sure that the GM40 port is on the outside. This step is a bit cumbersome because it is quite cramped inside the mask. Now your AVON gas mask is ready for play with the VAST Breathing System – once you have attached the net at the back again.

Alternatively you can replace the net with the VAST’s Head Harness for AVON gas masks. It is made out of their aramid-reinforced Superior Latex and comes in standard and locking variety. For addition fail safe reasons, I chose the non-locking version.

To install the harness, thread the straps through the loops where usually the straps of the next go…

… and secure them using the screw-down rivets. Depending if you prefer a sleeker or more industrial look, put the recess on the inside or outside.

Now the FM12 is fully upgraded and ready to play.

How the additional components of the set perform and why Flashlight has labia instead ass lips is a story for another day and review.

Alpha Whips Junior Snake Whip

The Alpha Whip 2ft Junior Snake Whip in a Custom Adaptive Version

Vendor: Alpha Whips


This whip is very traditionally made: At the bottom is a lead-weighted pommel to balance the whip followed by a spring core. Being a Snake Whip there is no dedicated grip section with a second knot before the body like on a Bullwhip. At the end of the body a single paracord becomes the so call “fall” to which the cracker is attached by a loop. The cracker can be made out of Dacron or Dyneema. Dacron is a bit more stiffer and sharper and thus more stingy. It also takes longer to break in for cracking the whip. The upside is that the falls at the end do not tangle easily when cracking. My cracker is made out of Dyneema because it is softer and the chances of breaking the skin are next to nothing.

Lengthwise you can choose between 2ft and 5ft. The length is measure from the end of the pommel to where the fall begins. Choosing the right length is not an easy task. The most important thing to consider is your play space: The more confined the short the whip should be. Next is your play style, how you throw your whip. As a beginner I would recommend 3ft because it is a good compromise between handling, being able to crack it and throwing the whip far away from you. Despite controlling my whip fairly well, I still manage to unintentionally hit myself… If you want Hollywood style show throwing and cracking, you will need longer whips.

Nota bene: My whip is a custom Adaptive Snake Whip in 2ft length and 12 plaits. So where on a standard Snake Whip the fall is, I have a loop for attaching various attachments like a Dragon Quirt or a braided nylon fall onto which my cracker is attached. The plus side of an Adaptive whip is versatility. In theory you do not need carry several whips to a scene but can exchange the impact implement. In practice I rarely do it because it takes a bit of time. The downside is that doe to the nylon fall I basically ended up with a 3ft whip.

On a normal Snake Whip the Fall would begin here. At my Adaptive Whip there is the Loop for attaching different Implements

What makes whip from Alpha Whip special is the material it is made out of: Is completely made out of paracord.  In case of the Junior Whip it is made out of 550lb Nylon paracord which is perfect considering the length of the whip and thus force the material is subjected to. If you have experience which leather whips, you will have to adjust a bit. Out of the box, the body is less stiff and thus the whip is easier to throw right away. But unlike leather, the material will not break in over time. The braid will loosen just a little bit but not too much. So once you have learned to control your whip your throwing style does not need to adjust much to the changing whip properties. Another advantage is that the whip does not need maintenance beyond exchanging the cracker.

Speaking of the braid, it is very neat, tight and even which is an indicator for the quality and long term durability of the whip. The Junior Series has as 12 plait braid which means 12 cords are used to make the whip. Higher braid count means tighter braid and more detailed patterns. Since all whips are custom made, you can choose from a wide range of patterns and colors. My Snake Whip is a two-color Double Diamond in black and neon green both on the handle and the pommel.

Lead-Weighted Pommel with Hanging Loop

The pommel can have a different color than the handle and you can choose if you want a small loop for hanging the whip. I would highly recommend this for shorter whips because since the nylon does not break in as much as leather does, you cannot curl the whip like Indiana Jones does. Better store them hanging.

Finally a word on pricing: When I talk about flogger or whips at my impact play workshops or with interested people after they have seen me throw whips at Quälgeist for example, a common topic is where to get inexpensive whips for beginners. Being made out of paracord, Alpha Whips are already on the lower end of the price spectrum for good handmade whips. It takes hours to braid a whip like this. It takes a large stock of material you have to finance in order to offer this wide range of colors. And most importantly it takes years to learn how to make great whips. For that reason whips quality whips that will last you years of heavy play cannot come at a discount price. So like with anal toys where I always recommend saving for more expensive but safer to play with platinum silicone toys, better safe for another half year and get a proper whip instead of something cheap.

But don’t safe or wait too long for the whip you want. For most whip makers making whips is a hobby. If they had to make a living from it, whips would be even more expensive. So on a regular basis famous whip makers stop making their toys because they cannot justify the – personal – costs anymore.

Progression of the Braid from 12 plait to the Fall

Playing with the Junior Snake Whip

Each whip has a natural orientation in which it wants to go. In order to find this orientation hold the whip on the pommel and see into which direction it leans. You should always throw the whip on this plane because it will naturally lean towards it. Throwing it perpendicularly will make it harder to control because the whip will be pulled sideways while the momentum is propelling it forward.

The Fluff of a Dyneema Cracker

In order to learn how to control the whip, a proven technique is taking a large piece of cardboard and draw the outlines of a human torso onto it. Put this on the wall and throw your whip at it aiming at specific areas. Caution: Make sure there is nothing fragile about a meter left and right of the target and behind you. My poor plants speak from experience…

There are two ways to throw this whip: The easier one is “lashing”. You hold the pommel in your dominant hand and hold the fall in the other. Now extend your dominant arm until it is slightly bend and pull the other arm backwards. How far you pull backwards and thus put load the whip with tension will determine the impact intensity. If you want to add even more intensity, press your thump against the grip. This will add a surprising amount of kinetic energy. With lashing you can fairly easy and quickly develop a good aim. Since you always have to “charge” your whip again, lashing it not made for rapid strokes.

The other one is called “rolling” because you roll the whip forward. It is the style seen in movies and most porn. For this style, you wind the whip up by putting it behind your back and propel it forward using your shoulder, upper and lower arm. In this style the whip hits the bottom diagonally from above. Since you use all the muscles in your arm and your shoulder to propel the whip forward (and for advanced players even in your torso when you add a turning it towards the bottom), you can gather considerably more kinetic energy and thus increase the pain. Also you can develop a pendulum movement for rapid strokes. But the whip is much more harder to control and proper aim takes a lot of experience. Especially since you need to adjust to the height of every bottom.

The Loop on top of the Fall for Attaching the Cracker

Regardless of the throwing technique, when pulling the whip back for the next stroke, be careful not to hit yourself! On numerous occasions I gave myself a more or less thorough arm and back whipping in a scene…

If you are into extreme, long whipping, especially if you want to break the skin, I highly recommend exchanging the crackers between partners. Otherwise pathogens get transferred from one player to another. Such whipping bottoms usually have their own crackers they give the top before the scene.

Finally, a word on cracking. Cracking is when you throw the whip and there is a cracking sound. This sound is emitted when the cracker breaks the sound barrier. Unlike leather whips, even the short Snake Whip can be made cracking with a bit of practice. I found it easier to crack the whip with lashing than rolling because the kinetic energy is focused in one burst instead of building over time. Since the whip apexes in the middle of the air instead on a bottom, be extra careful of your surroundings. It makes the whip a bit more difficult to control.

Conclusion: Really well-made single tail for beginners and experienced whippers
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Does not breaking in I could not really find any weak spots during the test. If you are in the market for a single tail and except it not being made out of the traditional material leather there is no reason not to buy one of these Alpha Whips Starting at 105€
Easy to crack
Good value for money
No maintenance needed
Made in Germany, so for EU readers no high shipping costs and import duties like on US whips

Oxballs Clone Duo

The Oxballs Clone MAX Ball Stretcher

Vendor: Oxballs

It has been over four years that I have last reviewed an Oxballs ball stretcher. Despite having reviewed so many over the past eleven years, I get many reader questions regarding them. So I decided to take a look an exotic model today which are designed to stretch your balls lower.


The Clone Duo is a set of two funnel-shaped ball stretchers; one black, one blue. It has a very short nuzzle on top of a big cone. It comes in two sizes: The Clone and the Clone Duo MAX which is the basis for this review.

The two stretchers have the same design and dimensions standing 41.5mm tall (37.5mm at the standard version). On top they have a diameter of 47mm and 68mm at the bottom. The top aperture has a diameter of 31mm and the bottom of 42mm. This means that the wall strength increases. This means that there is a spring force working towards the bottom.

The exterior is textured with texts and graphics: Around the nozzle runs a band of the product and brand name, the cone features bold arrows pointing down – just in case you were wondering in which direction the force works. On the MAX there is “HUGE” written between the arrows so you don’t confuse them with the standard ones.

The Tow Colors of the Clone Duo MAX

They are made out of platinum silicone making them very skin-friendly. The super-smooth surface reduces the chance of skin and to some extend hair getting caught. While the material is stretchty, it is more rigid and more importantly more shape stable than (Flex-)TPR even when exposed to kinetic energy and warmth over extended period of time (like in being worn 24/X). If you prefer to lube up your stretcher before putting them on, I recommend sticking to water- or oil-based lubes. Oxballs claims it is fine to use silicone lube but the silicone oil inside the lube will over time disintegrate the surface making it sticky. Speaking of sticky: Silicone itself is always a bit sticky so regardless how thoroughly you clean them, there will always be flint and dust on them.


Different materials use different plasticizers which can damage each other! Because of that it is important to store your ball stretchers apart without touching each other like in a shape sorter. Before putting them away, you should clean them, especially when lube has been used. Simply soak them in hot dish soap water, rinse them off, sanitize and let them dry before storing them away.


The Large Diameter Difference of the Top and Bottom Aperture

Playing with the Clone Duo


More than most other ball stretchers the Clone Duo is designed to stretch and extend your balls over time, turning them into low hangers. Unlike with stacking several rings above each other the spring force constantly and softly pushes your balls down. The lasting stretch might not come as quickly as with other methods (esp. like wearing a metal ball stretcher 24/x) but it is a gentle stretch that will affect your everyday life not too much – if you choose the right size. If you can already comfortably wear a 35mm ball stretcher, go for the MAX, otherwise start with the regular one.

As written above, the stretch force works in the direction of the arrow. So the lowest stretch is when you put the top aperture towards your body and the bottom one towards your balls. The next step up is turning it around and let the bottom press against your groin. From there you have to work quite a bit with stacking stretch rings till the next step which is stacking two Clones above each other. If you want to go harder and more, the next escalation is letting the bottom holes face each other and the final step is to the top holes meet in the middle. Though in order to achieve that you really need (meaty) low-hangers.

Meaty is a key word: The more intensely you stretch, the more likely it is especially for small balls to stay in place when putting the stretcher on or even worse slip through. Again, with added small ring you can prevent this. But with all training, who said it is going to be easy.

One of the more Intense Stacking Options

If you already have somewhat low hangers and enjoy a good swing, the Clone is worth a try. Weighing 68g each and stretching your balls good, there is certainly a good tug and swing. Of course it is far from a metal ball stretcher but my testees enjoyed it because you can wear the Clone longer than a metal ball stretcher at same stretch level.

When you plan on wearing the stretcher constantly for best stretching result, consider the size. The spring force causing cone-shape makes the Clone way bulkier than other ball stretchers. You have a very noticeable – and visible – silicone lump between your legs. Most testees got used to the feeling and did not describe it as more annoying than other stretchers. But there is still a cone of shame around your balls others can see (If you want to put a cone of shame around your entire junk, Oxballs got your covered too).

Conclusion: Tool for stretching your balls LOW for intermediate and experienced stretchers.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Soft and gradual stretch over time When using two difficult to put on. Clone Duo $66.00
Clone Duo MAX $99.00
Good stretch and weight for swinging balls Very bulky for 24/X wearing