Bad Dragon Wereables

Bad Dragon Wereable Magnus & Flint

Vendor: Bad Dragon

For many perverts transformation into an anthropomorphic being is a major kink. Part of coming close to their being of choice or calling is putting on gear which in a sexual content should include the dick. For that reason I have been asked a lot of times for an educated opinion on the Bad Dragon Wereables. So I got my hand on their Flint and Magnus to tell you all about it.

Construction

The construction of the two models I have tested extensively follows the design of most cock sheaths: The main body is a long sheath for covering the dick’s shaft onto which at the end a loop is molded to put around the balls for keeping the sheath in place(more on that later). The inside of the sheath is textured to massage the top’s dick while fucking, on Flint with thicker grooves while Magnus has finer ones. Unlike other cock sheaths the wall thickness is not even around the dick. Since the outside texture follows the design of some of the most iconic Bad Dragon dildos, it is sometimes thicker like on the deep ridges on Flint’s bottom or Magnus’ knot. The wereables are made out of soft silicone. So even Flint’s ridges or Magnus’ prominent veins will certainly add tantalizing sensations but will not be a difficult struggle. Due to the stretchiness, putting the sheath on is also easy, because it stretches well, even over girthier dicks. While the sheaths are made out of the same silicone as their other toys, the color choice is limited to solid colors.

Detail of the Veins on Magnus‘ Sheath

Depending in the model the wereables are one size only or come up to three sizes. I recommend getting a size with a slightly smaller internal diameter than the diameter of your dick’s shaft for a snug fit. If you choose one of the wereables with a closed tip, make sure not to buy a too short one! I had a chance to fuck with a medium David which was too short and it was an unpleasant and unpractical experience.

Flint put on a Dildo

Playing with the Wereables

Most of my testees – both top and bottom – enjoyed playing with the wereables. The extravagant colors and sophisticated textures add an enticing visual to the play and new sensations to fucking. It takes a few rounds to figure out which texture works best in which position. Flint was more appreciated in doggy style because the ridges massage the prostate while Magnus won favors in sledgehammer fucking with the bottom on the back resp. in the sling because it really gave the knot a pop feeling. Some of my testees used the wereables without a bottom and enjoyed the sheath as small and handy travel masturbators. Especially the deeper grooves of Flint are great for that and the soft material lets you control the pressure easily.

To put the wereable on, lube up the dick, pull them over the shaft and put the scrotal loop around the balls. I recommend lubing up the sheath afterwards after it has been put in place. Otherwise adjusting the fit becomes difficult.

Detail of the Grooves inside Magnus‘ Sheath

As good as the soft silicone feels and allows the movement of the bottom’s sphincter to be felt by the top, it is also the drop of bitter with this toy. The loop around the balls is too soft and stretches too much. On a well lubed up shaft it moves a fair bit. On the one hand, this is good, because the groves inside the sheath massage the top’s dick. On the other hand especially when the bottom’s hole is just open enough to let the toy covered dick in, it stays inside, sliding along the dick, until the pull gets too much and pops out. With guys who don’t have low-hangers, Flint’s wide loop came off during heavy pounding. Also, Flint’s tip is so thin, it sometimes folds down when entering a hole. So I would recommend the wereables for loose holes and not to for something to start out the fucking with.

Of course, the wereables are not only made for dicks! They are a good way to spice up dildos which have become uninteresting. Naturally, for a securish fit, dildos with balls are better than just shafts. If the dildo has nothing to put the scrotal loop around, the sheath must be hold in place by hand otherwise it might disappear inside the bottom’s ass.

Detail of Flint’s Scrotum Loop with the Bad Dragon Logo Stamped on the Right Side

Being made out of platinum silicone, cleaning is easy: They can be autoclaved, put into hot water with dish soap or vinegar cleaner, rinsed off, dried and sanitized. But since they are silicone toys, it means they should not be used with silicone lube. Since they are so textured, I recommend a slicker lube like Elbow Grease H2O Thick Gel which stays in place.

Where to buy?

Like all Bad Dragon toys, they are exclusively sold and made to order at the Bad Dragon website. Depending on the size they cost between $60 and $80 with no surcharge for a different color.

Asylum Muzzle

The Mr S Asylum Muzzle

Vendor: Mr S Leather

Construction

The main part of this muzzle is a 280x85mm sized piece of leather which has been thermally molded to hug the back of the head. In the center of it a 265mm long zipper embedded in another leather piece runs from the bottom. Both the zipper itself and the surrounding leather piece are framed with a piping to give the leather piece some structure while maintaining its flexibility and softness.

Detail of the Leather Piece which goes onto the Back of the Head

On both ends the leather base strap flows into two small straps on each side. Through rivets small flaps are formed which house normal buckles. The rivets also hold small leather patches in place which prevent hair getting caught in the buckles. Onto the upper buckles and anatomically shapes blindfold can be attached. The lower ones are for a mouth shield. Both pieces feature long straps so the Asylum Muzzle can accommodate almost every size of head from small to really large. Depending on the head shape and size the straps either run above or over the ears but since they are made out of soft leather, they are not distracting.

Front View of the Mr S Asylum Muzzle

All leather pieces and straps are made out of a double layer of soft garment leather. Except the lip which protects the hair from the zipper that is only a single layer with for unknown reasons the soft side faces the zipper and not the hair. Also, the little patches under the buckles are a single layer of a different type of leather that on some of my eight ones feel a bit “cardboardy”; I would have wished for a double layer of the same soft garment leather. But this is just the gear perfectionist inside me speaking. Especially the bottom does not feel the difference and the leather is soft enough to wrap around the head easily.

Playing with Asylum Muzzle

The bad news first: If you are not playing with only one person who has the muzzle adjusted to his size, putting it on is a bit of a pain in the ass. First, attach the blindfold in a medium setting. Then place the main body on the back of the head, wrap the blindfold around the head and place it in the ideal position over the eyes. Then fetter the loose straps n a setting that keeps that position and adjust the already fettered straps on the other side in the same setting. Finally, put the face shield over the nose and attach the straps so that it stays centered. Of course, you can do it the other way round but to block out the most light, it is better to put the mouth shield over the blindfold. Naturally, if the attachments are already adjusted correctly, simply open the zipper and put it on like you would with every other hood.

The Mouth Shield

Now that everything is nice and tight in place, let the fun begin. As complicated and annoying as the putting on process sounds, once the top got used to the design and figured out how to do it swiftly, putting on the different covers, adjusting the strap has the same sensual quality as adjusting my beloved Bishop Head Harness. The Asylum Muzzle is made out of the same soft material so like the head harness it needs no breaking in period but just envelopes the sub’s head as softly and tightly as you desire.

Detail of a Buckle

Unlike with the Bishop Head Harness, the covers are not attached using snap fasteners but are right on the skin. This makes the blindfold more effective and depending on the head shape comes close to the shielding of an Ultra Blindfold. The mouth shield almost feels like a leather glove covering the mouth and the nose, creating the immersion of good glove over mouth play. When breathing in, the soft leather is sucked towards the mouth and nose and restricting breathing just a little bit – similar to the Leather Bag Hood. Not enough to make you suffocate but just enough to remind you that you are confined.

Detail of the Rough Leather of the Zipper and Buckle Cover

Mr S offered the same two cover design in a full coverage hood, obviously called the Asylum Hood. The design is older and through padded eye covers and lacing in the back more extreme than the Asylum Muzzle. I had a chance to try out both and for several reasons chose the muzzle over the hood. First, I am a bit of a claustrophobe so I am more comfortable with the “limited” leather coverage compared to a full hood. The second reason follows out of the first one: The less coverage leaves the ears, part of the forehead, the front of the neck and the top of the head still accessible for reassuring pats and caressing, ear nibbling, choking and whispering. Third, especially at summer events like Folsom or when wearing other heavy gear like straitjackets, overheating can be a problem, especially at the head. The airiness of the Asylum Muzzle helps to prevent that to a certain degree.

Detail of the Zipper

If you look what I have written above, the Asylum Muzzle is a bit like a best of off my favorite Mr S head gear. And it truly is. Yes, it has some drawbacks like no d-rings to attach it to bondage points or restraints to it. But since the leather is so soft, you can easily put a collar around the neck after putting the muzzle on. Or even put another muzzle or head harness over it. If you are not using both covers and the sub is an active one, flinging around his head, the buckles flap around which can be annoying. But I still love the sensual qualities, the perfect equilibrium of isolation and confinement and accessibilities so much that I gladly overlook the weak points of an otherwise unique and great piece of bondage gear.

Conclusion: Sensual, versatile and effective piece of head gear with small flaws.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Effective cover of eve and mouth Difficult to put on to new subs Mr S Leather $309.95
Even with all covers attached, leaves parts of the head accessible for play No roller buckles
Sometimes rough leather side is placed inconveniently

When not using all covers, unused buckles are inconvenient

Sensual experience putting it on
Glove over mouth effect
Collars and other pieces of head gear can be worn over it

 

Lederbondage Leather Sleepsack

Vendor: Lederbondage.com

Let’s start this review with a bit of German leather history: About 1 ½ decades ago, there was a kinky leather craftsman working for VW in Wolfsburg. By day he clad car interiors in leather, by night he crafted some exceptional pieces of bondage gear – including as far as I know ten sleepsacks which are called “VW sleepsacks” by their owners. I could not find out for what reason but this guy stopped making gear over a decade ago.

The Lederbondage.com Leather Sleepsack

Fast forward to the nowish time. One of my closest friends happens to own one of those sleepsacks. He knew I wanted one for my playroom so he got in touch with my other friends and they pooled for the birthday gift. He got in touch with a local leather tailor, sent his sleepsack as a sample, got my measurements and asked what features my ideal sleepsack should have and now after 2 ¼ years and many messages, I am reviewing one of the signature pieces of bondage gear in my playroom.

Detail of the Collar with the V-neck opening and Locking Roller Buckle

Construction

The cocoon-like body of the sleepsack is made out of 1.4mm thick medium-grain cow hide which is really soft. The entire sleepsack is lined with this hide so you end up with an almost 3mm thick layer of leather. But since the leather is so soft, is does not feel stiff but just hugs the sub’s body.

What now follows is all individually bespoke and can be crafted to your desires and needs. I went for a traditional neck to foot zipper. It is the easiest way to get into a sleepsack and especially in long-term scenarios more comfortable than to lay on a back zipper. I chose five runner for my zipper to create different opening for the crotch for example. To be honest, in all the play I had with the sleepsack, I only needed three runner (one to close, two to open up the crotch), because I ordered my sleepsack with tit flaps for easy nipple access. They measure 13x13cm on the outside with giving access to an area of 10x10cm and are attached using Velcro. The inside is smooth leather but I am sure you can also get it with spikes and pins for continuous stimulation.

Detail of the D-rings of Rope Tightening

I chose several means to increase the bondage and leather encapsulation sensation. First, there is the collar. It is attached to the sleepsack with a wide v-neck in the front so it ends with my jaw line without being uncomfortable around the neck. Through this design there is no gap between a hood and the sleepsack and if I want to wear a muzzle or a hood with an attached collar, it still fits because the zipper ends below the neck. Around the collar there is a belt with a locking roller buckle and D-rings for the psychological effect of being locked inside the sleepsack. It is a purely psychological effect because once your arms are inside the arm pockets which I commissioned and the zippers are closed, any person with my rough body shape is not able to escape the sleepsack.

Detail of the Belt’s Roller Buckle

On each side of the sleepsack, there are 8 welded 7mm wire strength stainless steel D-rings riveted with leather flaps using six rivets. Through these thick bridle leather belts with double thorn roller buckles can be threaded to increase the bondage tightness or adjust the fit if you are slimmer than me. In addition to them, there are 8 smaller D-rings with “just” one rivets attached each side of the zipper. They are for threading rope through them for an ever tighter bondage and adding a different color to the all black sleepsack. On each shoulder and on the feet pocket there is another big D-ring. While they can be used to tied the sleepsack to the bed, I added them to be suspended inside the sleepsack either hanging on the shoulders or in a hammock like setup.

In order to unleash the true long-term potential of the sleepsack, I commissioned a cushion to put between the legs. This way there is not friction on the ankles and knees which would limit the time inside the sleepsack. The firmness of foam is soft enough to be comfortable jet firm enough to keep the joints from pressing against each other. The seam is one big piping so it is completely smooth.

Detail of the Padded Leg Devider

Another advantage of having your sleepsack made by a leather tailor is that each sleepsack is made to measure. He does not simply purchase a sleepsack body and adds straps and D-rings as the customers asks, but builds everything from scratch. Through this, he knows his product inside out and if necessary can do alterations. Last year, I worked out my thighs a bit too much and gained so much muscle mass that I could not close the zipper around the legs anymore. I just send it in and he added two pieces of leather just around my thighs so the sleepsack maintained his overall fit. While the sleepsack feels solid and is made for scenes and generations to come, if you are nitpicky, you will little aesthetic flaws like not all rivets being set in exactly the same way, some belt holes might be a bit off. After all, he is not Mr S who make dozens of sleepsacks every year, but these little points does not affect the functionality. I gladly oversee these little flaws for having a leather sleepsack which is exactly how I want it to be. Also, he has made several of them since he made mine so I guess he gathered some experience making them by now.

Detail of the D-rings around the Sleepsack

Naturally, all that leather and metal comes at a weight. In my case, almost 10kg. Even when packed tightly, it is almost a quarter cubic meter. I have taken this sleepsack to events in Berlin but it is not the most handy piece of bondage gear to travel with, especially when you do not travel by car.

As I written, this sleepsack was tailored to my demands and expectations. The original VW sleepsacks did not have D-rings on the sleesack but on the belts which were equipped with locking posts. So before ordering one, my recommendation is to try out some different sleepsacks (if possible) to figure out how your sleepsack needs to look like!

Playing with Leather Sleepsack

If you are a regular reader, you will most likely notice that a few weeks ago, I reviewed a rubber sleepsack. The big question is: Why another, way more expensive one?

Detail of the Tit Flaps

First, there is a fetish aspect. Some people like leather, other like rubber. I like both.

So the major point is that inside a leather sleepsack the feeling of bondage is more intense. While rubber will stretch, leather does not give in. You are confined to the shell of a thick, heavy leather cocoon. Leather is the most common material in bondage because it is strong. You can fight, you can struggle, you can stretch, you can grab and (try to) tear. The leather will not give in. This also impact the tightening process. With the rubber sleepsack I have to be careful when threading the rope through the D-rings and tightening it. On this one, I can tug and pull to really get it tight without having to worry to rip the rivet out of the material.

Detail of the Shoulder D-rings for Suspension Bondage

Because of these properties, the leather sleepsack is for heavier play or subs who like to struggle. With the D-rings around the sleepsack, it can easily be tied down so there is no wiggle room left for the sub. This comes in handy when inducing intense amounts of agony like through electro, CBT or milking. The tit flaps are large enough to expose the nipples to wax. And while wax does not destroy leather, it tarnishes the surface so some level of care is necessary.

For floaty bondage, it depends on your style. As soft as the leather is, it still maintains some level of stiffness. The thickness isolates the bottom from his surroundings. Because of that, the belts around the sleepsack are so wide that when tightening them the sub really feels the force and strength of the top. Add to that the weight of the leather and the feeling of being bound and helpless is more intense than in a rubber sleepsack.

Detail of the Arm Pockets

In a normal playroom setting leather also offers a bit more comfort than rubber. Since the leather is so thick it regulates the temperature quite well as long as the room temperature is at a normal level and the sleepsack does not lay in the open sun. Being a natural material, it also absorbs some level of sweat. This is also the downside of leather. Unlike rubber it is very difficult to clean – especially a large piece of gear as a sleepsack. So if the scene should be long-term, I recommend putting a diaper on the sub. Because leather is so comfortable and the sweating is not really noticed unlike in rubber, hydration and overheating can become a problem. So check in with the sub regularly and maybe open a little gap in the zipper to check his body.

Conclusion: Very well made leather sleepsack with loads of extras and a few beauty flaws.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Made to measure with extras tailored to the sub’s requirements Little imperfections in the manufacturing execution tarnish overall outstanding quality Lederbondage.com Around 1.500€ depending on the extras and shipping
Lavish amount of D-rings for intense
Ordering process more difficult and longer compared to off the rack sleepsack
bondage Suspension capability
Top notch leather and metal trim quality
Exceptional value for money

 

Fetters Leather Chest Binder Restraints

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

Detail of the Torso Belt’s Closing Mechanism Using a Lock

The main body of this restraint is a 10cm wide belt made out of 3mm thick bridle leather. On one end there is a locking pin (which naturally comes with a lock) and on the other 15 rivet reinforced holes are punched to adjust the circumference between 94cm and 123cm so you can fetter almost any body type – from twink over body builder to stocky bear – with this restraint. For a more comfortable fit even during extended scenes, the bridle leather is lined with soft garment leather.

Onto this body, two sets of restraints are riveted: An upper arm on the side and a wrist restraint in the front. The follow the same design scheme with bridle leather body and garment leather lining. Their closing mechanism is the same as the one on the Fetters Locking Restraints: A 3cm wide belt, closed with a roller buckle and shut with a locking pin. They are attached using only one rivet so they can twist and turn to accommodate different anatomies. Into the buckle of the upper arm restraints there is D-ring integrated. Another attachment point is a D-ring in the front between the wrist restraints which is hold in place by a piece of leather and four rivets.

The Fetters Chester Binder Restraints

Detail of the Garment Leather Lining and the Edge of the Body’s Bridle Leather

As high quality the materials and craftsmanship of the Chester Binder Restraints are – like every toy and piece of gear made in the workshops of Fetters – a little drop of bitterness are the edges of the restraints. The lining is slightly larger than the rigid leather on the outside so when pressed against the body it covers to some extend the hard edge of it. But still, I would have wished for the outer leather to be dyed and burnished or to put a piping around all the edges for the edges to be line with the overall quality feel and craftsmanship of the toy.

Detail of the Central D-Ring

Playing with the Chest Binder Restraints

When I first got these restraints, my testees and I saw them more as a “mobile” restraint: While rendering the torso and its limbs almost completely useless, the sub can still move around. So the restraints are great for pride, street fairs or party setting where he should still be able to walk while enjoying an intense bondage experience. In clubs the D-rings come in handy because with them the sub can be easily fixed to a post or tied in a frame when he needs some timeout. It lies in the nature of the design of this toy that the nipples are not accessible. However they are good for flogging (novice tops) because the leather belt is a good divider between the area that can be hit and the one which should not. The floggee should have some experience already though because maintaining posture by just leaning against the cross and not hands to stabilize oneself is a challenge of its own – and can introduce a hot element of discipline and punishment if failing to.

The Chest Binder Restraints quickly won the favor of one of my testee panel tops who likes the aesthetic of classic fetish attire like leather uniforms or rubber cat suits and thus dislikes the coverage of straitjackets. Unlike straitjackets, the hands are free in these restraints which opens up a whole world of interesting tasks: Holding the ash tray for the top or a tablet in a cocktail party is almost stress bondage. Another possibility is to make the housework more difficult through the extremely limited range of hand and arm movement. If heavier bondage is desired, simply close the wrist restraints slightly below the wrist and add either Padded Fist Mitts or Bondage Mitts which can be connected to a (muzzle’s) collar.

Detail of the Upper Arm Restraint’s Closing Mechanism inlcuding a Roller Buckle, Locking Pin and a D-Ring

During one scene with a pain pig, I discovered the “stationary” potential of the Chest Binder Restraints. It is great tool to effectively fetter the torso and the upper arms in a lay-down bondage setup. Before the Chest Binder Restraints, I had to put the subs into a bondage harness which while effective, took quite some time to adjust and still left the upper arms unbound. With the D-rings on the side (and maybe running a tension strap through the front D-ring), the torso is effectively kept from getting up. A downside is the locking pin pressing into the back of the sub. Adding a small cushion can soften it, so he can stay bound for extended periods of time.

Conclusion: Extravagant, multipurpose restraints with almost perfect build quality.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Almost complete immobilization of the arms while allowing to move around Edges of the restraints are not as well executed as the could be Regulation £148.99
Sub still (somehow) able to serve while bound
Enough D-rings for more complex bondage layouts
Leaves gear visible, most of the body accessible and does not a lot of coverage in hot environments

Rubber Bondage Sleepsack

The Torso of the Libidex Rubber Bondage Sleepsack

Vendor: Libidex

I do not review many rubber bondage items, mainly because I am maybe a bit too active sub to be contained by them and I am too lazy to clean them. But there are good reasons for some rubber bondage gear and I am more than happy to finally answer one of the most asked bondage gear question in this review.

Construction

Like the name of this toy already implies, it is tailored like a bodyfit sleepsack, a tight cocoon to envelop the body in latex. Unlike the sleepsacks made for camping this one only has a standing collar instead of an opening for the whole body. Also, the bottom has a shaped upward facing section for the feet. To get into the sleepsack, there are two zipper options: Either on top or on the bottom of the sleepsack, both running from the collar to the feet from. Mine has the top zipper for three reasons: First, from my experience with other sleepsacks, front access is way more important than rear access when it comes to sleepsacks. The idea of fucking a bottom inside a sleepsack (for which you would need rear access) is a hot idea, but this is quickly shattered by the reality of the bottom being an immobile “plank” and the zipper irritating the top’s dick. Second, lying on a zipper can be very uncomfortable, especially when the runners are poking you in the back. Finally, getting into a rear-zipper-sleepsack with arm pockets is a pain in the ass. The rear zipper comes with a cleaner look but in my opinion is not worth the disadvantages which comes with it. For a little surcharge you can get the opposite access zipper added to your sleepsack too.

As already implied, the Libidex Bondage Sleepsack is equipped with arm pockets which are really well designed. They open up deep enough inside the sleepsack to allow people with thick chest and shoulder muscles to comfortably get into and stay in them. Furthermore they are really deep so people with long arms do not have problems.

Detail of the Sleepsack’s Arm Pockets

The Bondage Sleepsack (like all Libidex sleepsacks) is made out of 0.8mm rubber. This thickness is a good compromise of sturdiness yet flexibility and stretchiness. The material stretches just enough for easy getting and staying in but still has enough compressing force for the compact, encapsulating rubber bondage feeling. The seams are glued really well and with enough of an overlap to take a bit of beating. In combination with the material thickness, this model can contain a somewhat active sub. But keep in mind that rubber is not nearly as strong as leather! When fettering a bratty sub or going for a painplay scene where the sub will work out the pain, I highly recommend either getting (rubber) belts or tie rope around the sleepsack.

To help keep these means in place, the sleepsack is equipped with welded D-rings with an inner width of 35. Along the side there are four D-ring paris: Above the elbow, over the wrists, above the knee and around the ankles. There is a pair on top of the shoulder, one pair on the collar and finally a single D-ring at the bottom of the feet. The D-rings are attached to the sleepsack using a 30mm wide strap of rubber which is reinforced with a 15mm wide strap of fabric striping. Through this striping there are two rivets on each side which are covered by rubber patches in the inside. This is not only good for potential allergy reasons but the sweat and other liquids accumulating inside the sleepsack would cause rust. As sturdy as the D-rings are attached to the sleepsack, as little I would recommend to use the D-rings for limiting a subs movement by tying the sleepsack down onto a bed frame for example. The chances of the rivets being ripped out of the rubber are too high. Better use the rope as an anchor point.

Detail of the Rivet Cover inside the Sleepsack

Finally, a word in the customization options for the sleepsack: You can choose from 43 colors and sizes ranging from XXS to 4XL free of charge with is the largest selection of colors and sizes I have come across yet. Furthermore there are three length options. I have gotten the tall for being around 1.88m tall and it fits me really well – as well as some of my guests which were as tall as 2.05m.

Playing with the Bondage Sleepsack

While this rubber sleepsack can be used to fetter a sub for pain play, the limitations above apply. When you have an active sub and are not a big fan of additionally wrapping rope, belts or chains around a sub, I recommend getting a leather sleepsack (or if you are a rubber fetishist, get both and layer up).

After having gotten that out of the way, let’s talk about the great sensual quality of a rubber sleepsack. Unlike leather, the rubber stretches and flows over the body like a second skin. This has made the rubber sleepsack the favorite piece of bondage for floaty bondage scenes with my subs. With 0.8mm the material is just thin enough to transmit the light touches of fingers traveling over the body. But the material also picks up movement from a strong massager, causing the latex cocoon to resonate around the application area for a unique feeling. Add to that the temperature conductivity of rubber and an ice cube of metal implement warmed in water can create become a tool on the brink between ecstasy and agony. Though NEVER pour wax over rubber or apply hot, sharp or spiky implements! It will damage the material. Since rubber is non-breathable and despite the good temperature conductivity contains warmth, temperature control and hydration (due to sweating) is a constant issue. Make sure that the room is well heated but not too warm, opening a window with a light breeze going over the bound boy can quickly make him become hypothermic. On the other end of the temperature scale, letting him lay in the sun will make him overheat. All these factors have to be taken into consideration when planning the scene because one inside the sleepsack, moving the bottom is difficult. And getting into a sweat-drenched cold rubber bag is a fetish some very much enjoy but not many.

Detail of the Rubber Stripes Holding the D-rings in Place

Rubber is also a good isolating material. I had great fun teasing a sub with a violet wand electrode running over his body, coming closer or moving away from his exposed genitals and alternating the wand’s intensity, so he never knew when the spark would jump over to his dick. When doing this kind of play, be careful with coming too close to the metal zipper which also conducts and can cause interesting effects…

Since the seams are glued really well, the rubber bondage sleespack is basically one big tub which of cause can be filled with liquids. This starts with dropping an ice cube or two against overheating, continues over the ability to relieve oneself during long-term bondage and ends in being the party urinal when the courtesy piss bottom cannot swallow quickly enough (or being the drain for him). While you can fit almost every smaller body type into even a larger and taller sleepsack, when playing with liquids the body fit should be roughly the one ordered. Otherwise the liquids will flow out of the neck opening.

Detail of the Feet Section of the Sleepsack

When talking about messy things, I have to talk about the biggest pain in the ass with rubber items:  Cleaning and maintenance. You can and have to clean the bondage sleepsack like every rubber item (as described in my Rubber 101). The weight and size makes handling the sleepsack a bit clumsy and due to the attached feet section, getting all liquids out before and after the wash is a bit difficult. Polishing the sleepsack takes a while just as applying talcum in the inside (never forget the arm pockets). And finally, the sleepsack should be stored hanging best to avoid creases. Despite all the hassle, I was surprised how often I use the rubber bondage sleepsack.

Conclusion: Extremely good value for money rubber sleepsack.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Good fit and arm pockets for tight bondage experience Only three runner on the zipper Libidex £299
Material thickness good compromise of bound feeling and sensual qualities Cleaning is a pain in the ass
Plenty of D-rings for additional fettering
Wide range of possible sizes

Leather Suspension Harness

The Blackjump Leather Suspension Harness

Vendor: Blackjump

Construction

Like with all heavy duty bondage items, the first look should always be on the material and manufacturing quality in order to see if the gear will actually detain a struggling sub. This is even more important with a suspension harness because an equipment failure will not only ruin a scene but can potentially cause injuries!

This Blackjump model is beyond any doubt. All straps are made out of sturdy, 2mm thick and 50mm wide belt leather (except the one across the chest which is 30mm wide). Points with crucial load bearing or extreme kinetic stress either feature double leather layers or four instead of just two rivets. Equally important is the protection of fragile and vulnerable body parts from the stiff leather belts digging in. For this thick and stiff foam under soft leather is used so even under a lot of pressure you do not feel the leather and metal below the padding. The hardware is also supreme: The D-rings are welded and made out of thick steel, the buckles are sturdy roller buckles.

Detail of the Double Lay Leather to extra-reinforce the Suspension D-ring

All these ingredients are mixed together into what appears fairly simple design which in the details shows a lot of thought. The torso part is basically two belts with holes on both ends, riveted to an X with one rivet on the back so the angle between the two belts can adjust easily depending on the sub’s body size. To protect collarbone and the shoulders, there are pads which can be attached to the belts with snaps. Though mine have been lost when I have bought this harness from a friend; I need to reorder them again. On the apex of both belts there is a D-ring from which this harness gets suspended. Just above the belt holes in front there is a horizontal strap riveted with a roller buckle to tighten the harness in front of the chest.

Using four buckles, these straps are connected to the piece de resistance of this suspension harness: The roughly bone-shaped, padded pelvic-protection. Since there are no muscles and rarely a thick layer of fat over the pelvis, this body area is very sensitive to abrasions. Because of this it has to be padded, either through a pad (like Mr S does) or through a padded belt (like Fetters does). Blackjump goes further. He extends the padding over the stomach region onto the lower rib cage to also protect this fragile body part. In order to maintain the flexibility and adjustability of the harness, the padding is not only ergonomically shaped, but middle part which goes over the stomach section is with 60mm only 40% as wide as the 140mm wide padding to the pelvis and rib cage. A little drawback of the heavy duty design is that the rivets which connect the belts with the padding are not covered by leather.

Detail of the Padding Protecting the Pelvis and Rib Cage

The four buckles on the upper end of the padding allow to adjust the harness the bottom’s body size. It is very adjustable; I suspended people from 1,69m to 2,05m and thin twinks to heavier bears with no problem. From my experience with leather as a material and without any guarantee I would say the breaking load of this harness is somewhere between 150kg and 180kg. Below the buckles of the back there is also a D-ring riveted. To my knowledge it is the only fetish suspension who has these D-rings but they are very important when the sub is not flying high (see below). On the bottom there is a belt attached which go around the thigh. To also protect this delicate body area (see below), there a 100mm wide and 350mm long padded “sleigh” running on the strap so regardless of the length adjustment is always cover the back part of the thigh.

At least when my friend bought the harness some 10 years ago, it came with a sturdy suspension bar. On both ends quick links are welded onto the bar, the actually suspension is attached to a triangle ring welded onto the middle. From the quick links 350mm of 6mm wire gauge chain are suspended. The actually harness is suspended using pear clips which the avid reader knows I am not a big fan off. Though since they are never actually opened the sharpness does not really play a role. And at least the ones I have a certified for 230 daN. So I can hardly imagine a strong, heavy muscle bear exceeding the dynamic breaking load of 469kg + safety margin…

Detail of the Back Buckle with D-ring

Playing with the Suspension Harness

For me suspension bondage, especially in a harness and using rope, is the ultimate form of mindfuck bondage: You are free to move around yet unable to escape. To achieve this level of mindfuck, the sub needs to be suspended so high that his toes can’t touch the ground and his hands can’t touch anything. If you do not have a gymnasium for a playroom, this can be difficult. The extreme situation is my playroom where some subs have to crouch to get into the harness with the suspension bar above them. To still get the sub helpless, put ankle restraints on him and connect them to the D-rings on the back. Depending on the degree of helplessness, fetter the hands using suspension restraints to the suspension bar or to the D-ring to which the thigh belt is connected. In the latter position for added stress, upper arm restraints can be connected to the back D-rings. However, I would not recommend to subject to sub to too much pain in this situation because due to the limited upper arm movement  he can quickly pull something.

The design of the straps and belts allow for maximum accessibility for sensation play over TT and CBT to spanking and even flogging. Particularly fun are e-stim scenes with movement triggered units like the Electrastim Flick Duo or Axis. Once the sub starts to work the pain out, self-sustaining system of constant movement is set in motion which keeps the stimulation coming and coming.

Detail of the Suspension Bar and Chains

The feeling of flying can also heighten the sensations of more traditional play like getting fucked or fisted. The free movement of the harness creates a way stronger swinging action than a sling does. While a suspension harness seems like a natural match for a milking machine, I made not the best experience with my Venus 2000. The body’s natural reaction to an intense sensation is flinching, pulling the penis out of the receiver. Just suspending the receiver from the chest strap also proved to instable. I have seen people converting cock sheaths into attachment points for the receiver so this might work.

Detail of the Thigh Padding

As hot and fun suspension bondage is, it is also one of the most dangerous forms of bondage due to the risk of suspension trauma. In short suspension bondage is the blood gathering in the legs when being suspended for an extended period of time which will cause a circulatory collapse. Symptoms are sweating, breathlessness, dizziness, feeling sick, dropping blood pressure or numbness. If any of these symptoms occur, get the sub out of the harness but NEVER LAY HIM DOWN! During suspension trauma the heart tries to pump the blood up with ever increasing force. Laying him down would cause the blood to shoot into the torso and brain, basically killing him! This is called rescue death. To prevent this, for the first 20 to 30 minutes, keep the torso in an upright position. A suspension trauma is not a “miner circulation crash” but a serious medical emergency and requires professional help! Drugs which increase blood pressure and/ or open up the blood vessels like poppers can increase the likelihood of suspension trauma. While the thick padding on critical areas makes the appearing of a suspension trauma unlikely, a suspended sub (like all bound subs) should never be left alone and a suspension scene should never go over extended periods of time. Furthermore it is important to talk with the sub about the potential symptoms before a scene so he can draw the top’s attention to problems early enough and does not dismiss them out of mislead will to be obedient.

Speaking of safely suspending someone: If you want to really lift the sub after fettering him in the harness, I highly recommend getting a professional winch for liability reasons. Considering dynamic loads, you should get one with over 1,000kg carrying load!

Conclusion: Bes fetish suspension harness I have come across yet.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Great craftsmanship out of high quality materials Takes forever to break in Blackjump Ca. 250€
Thick and ample padding for comfortable and safe scenes over extended periods of time
D-rings in all relevant places
Comes with suspension hardware

 

Leather Straitjacket

The HML Fetish Leather Straitjacket

Vendor: HML Fetish

After the past weeks were all about anal toys, the Sundays will follow a different tune: It will be all about heavy bondage. So expect reviews of sleepsacks, hoods, extravagant restraints – and straitjackets.

One of the most common questions in the realm of heavy bondage is: Where do I get a good, reasonably priced straitjacket? Despite most heavy bondage items like sleepsacks or straitjackets are once-in-a-life-time purchases, not everybody can afford the mid-four-digit price tags of Mr S or Fetters straitjackets. On the other end of the price spectrum there are cheaply made models from Asia which cardboard-like leather from questionable sources and unreliable metal fixtures. So I did some research for something in between and found this model from HML Fetish in Bremen.

Detail of the Straps for Tightening the Straitjacket at the Back

Construction

Since a straitjacket is most likely be worn on the bare skin in order not to overheat, let’s talk about the material first. HML Fetish uses high quality, European sourced cow hides so you do not have to worry about Chrome-6. The leather of the jacket itself is 1mm thick which is a good compromise between the feeling of being clad in leather, the leather fitting well around the body and temperature control .The inside of the jacket is not lined but since all metal fixtures are made out of stainless steel, neither allergies nor rust should be a too big problem. Knowing HML Fetish I am pretty sure they can line the jacket with leather if you ask them. Despite the price point just below 1.000€, you get premium features like thickly quilted leather on the elbows which is a nice touch and keeps the elbows protects when the sub is made to crawl on the ground while being fettered. Another great feature are the nipple flats which measure roughly 10x10cm. Six sturdy snaps are keeping them in place so even a very actively struggling sub cannot get them off.

Detail of the Quilting over the Elbows

Like most straitjackets, the HML Fetish one is closed by a zipper. Then going down from head to waist there is a belt around the collar, one going around the chest and upper arm and one around the waist. These straps are led but leather straps riveted onto the body. On the back, two additional belts going over the zipper to tighten the jacket properly around the body. Like all straitjackets the arms are crossed over the chest with a belt strap on the end of the left arm and a buckle strap on the right arm. Once they are closed together behind the back, there is a strap in the middle of the front to secured them tightly and limit any potential wiggle room. Finally, there are two straps which run through the crotch to prevent the more than unlikely possibility that with crossed arms the jacket could be pulled off.

All straps are made out of 1.5mm thick cow hides which is doubled, glued and sowed all around which gives the straps a nice quality feel and touch of craftsmanship. The belt holes are reinforced with stainless steel rivets so the buckle’s pin does not damage the leather. The strap around the waist, the collar and the once securing the arm in front of the torso are about 40mm wide, all other straps are 25mm.

Detail of the D-Ring at the Bottom of the Body

There is only one D-ring on the entire straitjacket: In the middle of the torso, just above the waist seam. Again, when ordering this straitjacket, get in touch with the guys at HML Fetish and they will place D-rings where you desire and need them. My recommendation (from the way I play) would be at least three at the collar (center, left and right) and replacing the leather leading loops on each side of the waist and just below the shoulder so you can tie the sub between two posts.

The straitjacket comes in sizes from S to XXL and are pretty adjustable. So when you are a top who entertains different body types of subs, I recommend getting a largerish size; you can always tighten it afterwards.

Detail of the Tit Flaps

Playing with the Straitjacket

Being put into a straitjacket is probably one of the most intense bondage experience once can have. Unlike a sleepsack where the sub is still somewhat in control of the putting on process (like slipping the arms into the arm pocket, adjusting the leg divider, etc.), once he has put the body one, the top is in control. He can move around the arms and with a leash even the sub at his will. While in a sleepsack the sub will most likely remain in the area where he lay down, in a straitjacket the sub is mobile and can be forced quiet easily into environments and situation the top wants him to be – regardless of how much the sub dislikes it. This mental aspect is one of the greatest appeals of a straitjacket.

Detail of the Jockstrap-Style Crotch Staps

An important element of it, is the fettering process; the straps being tightened around the subs, gradually limiting the control over his arms and torso. While the HML Fetish straitjacket technically does this well, it falls a bit short on the sensation side. Since most straps are only 25mm wide, the tightening sensation is not as strongly felt as on most other straitjackets. I would describe it this way: Compare the impact sensation of a wood paddle and a thuddy flogger. The pain intensity might be the same, but the flogger with the sheer amount of kinetic energy will shatter and thrust you against the St. Andrews cross while the paddle “just” hurts. Quantity wise the effect it the same, but the quality wise there is a lot more going on with the flogger or in regards of straitjackets with wider straps. I have talked to the guys at HML Fetish about this and they the thinner belts are an aesthetic decision, leaving more of the body visible. But most of my testees said that the fettering process was disappointingly unspectacular so I guess you again have to ask during the ordering process if you can get wider straps if you prefer them.

Detail of the Strap Fettering the Arms in Front of the Torso

Again compared to a sleepsack a straintjacket is the perfect combination of active play and intense bondage sensation. And the HML Fetish one excels at that. With the relatively large tit flaps, you cannot only attach clamps easily but even do wax play when you are a bit cautious (and the sub is sound tightly enough so he cannot move). Due to the not too thick leather, lying on a spanking bench is comfortable and the crotch straps make a nice jockstrap-like framing of the cheeks for impact play. This straitjacket’s collar is even soft enough to just be loosely closed if you are putting a hood or muzzle on which already has a collar.

Conclusion: High quality made straitjacket with too few D-rings and a little bit too thin straps.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Great craftsmanship out of high quality materials Straps are too thin HML Fetish 995€
Great value for money Too few D-rings
Large tit flaps
Quilted elbows as standard

Bad Dragon’s Trucker, Sleipnir & Egg

From Left to Right Bad Dragon’s Sleipnir, Egg and Tucker

Vendor: Bad Dragon

I intended to post this review weeks ago, before ToyTorture.com went on Spring Break. But the move to a new server took longer than anticipated. So here it is: The first review on the new server is also the final review of the Anal Toy Special which is about a manufacturer who according to quality and quantity of reader questions you apparently can’t get enough from: Bad Dragon.

Material

Bad Dragon toys clearly fall in the category of premium anal toys. This is largely due to how and what out of they are made. While they have some inventory in stock, there are no off the rack toys but each and every toy is individually made by hand in Phoenix, AZ. While the clearance section is a good way to get an inspiration what is possible, I usually recommend to configure a Bad Dragon. If you invest in such a high price toy, it should be really yours.

The Bad Dragon Logo Cast into the Egg’s Base

Speaking of configuration possibilities, you can choose between three degrees of firmness: Soft, medium and firm. XL toys are not available in firm and for toys which do not have to stand up like an insertable there is also the super-soft option. Choosing the right firmness is weighing off different aspects: Soft toys are good for not yet well trained asses or really large toys because the sphincter can deform the toy a bit to fit well. However the softer the material the less stability a toy has so especially with long toys there is a chance they will collapse easily. The firmness also determines who the texture feels. Cast in soft silicone a ridge might easily flap away while in firm the sphincter might struggle to take it. A good rule of thumb to keep in mind is, the larger the toy, the harder it will feel. In order to get an impression of the different firmness degrees, Bad Dragon sells a set of sample discs.

Bad Dragon Sleipnir

Another important element of configuring an individual Bad Dragon toy is the coloring. There are literally countless option from basic and subtle uni colors over extravagant fades and marbling to unique designs which are either designed and available only for a specific toy or available for a limited time. The colors will not fade or discolor over time which is due to the material being used.

All Bad Dragon toys are made out of platinum silicone which in the last few years replaced vinyl as my favorite anal toy material for several reasons. The platinum in the term refers to the catalyst used for curing the silicone. For cheaper silicone tin is used which has all sorts of negative side effects while platinum as a noble metal is body safe and hypoallergenic. Cleaning is also easier because platinum silicone being able to withstand acid or heat. While in theory you can autoclave all Bad Dragon toys, putting them in the dish washer or throw them in hot water with dish soap also does the trick. In this case, the super smooth surface of platinum silicone makes the washing easy so they are the ideal toy to quickly clean between swapping the person taking them up the butt.

Bad Dragon’s Egg

While platinum silicone can withstand a lot, do not use silicone or hybrid lubes on them! The silicone oil in them will disintegrate the silicone and ultimately the toy.  I often get messages from people who have been using their silicone toys with silicone lube and did not have any problems. But I get as many messages of desperate people who’s toys got sticky and floppy. So I recommend to be better safe than sorry. Platinum silicone is fine with any kind of water- and oil-based lube. My lube of choice for the silicone’s smooth surface are slicker, stickier lubes like Elbow Grease H2O Thick Gel or Vet Gel, especially Kerbel Gleitschleim (which is a very German thing I assume).

Shape

At the moment Bad Dragon offers 65 different anal toys, each year introducing some new ones and phasing out others. While in theory the toys are gender neutral, some are more designed with prostates or a clitoris in mind. One day I might write a buying guide to Bad Dragons to elaborate this further.

The basic size range of Bad Dragon is S to XL which covers the range from a small dick to (double) fisting. Some toys are also available in Mini or just a one-size toy. So do not fall in love with a design on the product overview page to quickly, you might be disappointed that your favorite dragon dick does not come in an interesting size.

Bad Dragon’s Tucker

Speaking of dragon dick: As the name “Bad Dragon” already implies, their toys are inspired by anthropomorphic creatures. They started out with just dragons but now feature demons, aliens, werewolves, unicorns, octopi or real animals like horses and dogs. Being inspired by (fantasy) animals most dildos feature a knot (a bulge at the bottom of the shaft). What (almost) all toys have in common is some degree of texturing which imitate veins and scales through bumps and ridges. These elements do not only increase the diameter but also make the toy harder to take. So always take the “deepness” of the texture into consideration when looking at the maximum diameter and pondering if you can take the toy. There is a strong interaction with the firmness and texture. The firmer the silicone, the more intense the texture will be felt. This does not necessarily mean that texture is felt more intense when the toy is in firm because the flapping/ giving in on a soft toy can be more stimulation than to chafe over an unforgiving form ridge. As Bad Dragon ventured more into “mainstream” they introduced tamer toys like the Egg (see below) a Unicorn’s horn.

Detail of Sleipnir’s Ridges

When looking at the detailed size charts and choosing a larger size, it is important to keep in mind that the toys scale proportionally: The texturing gets deeper and thus more intense, the knot (most of the time the largest diameter of the shaft) moves down further. Since most anal enthusiasts can easily take larger diameter but are not well with taking big toys deeply, the knot might be out of reach due to being too low.

To some toys, two special features can be added. The first is the suction cup. If you can add it, get it! It makes playing and riding the toy much easier. As a material, silicone is somewhat sticky on its own (that’s the reason why no matter how thoroughly you clean it, there is ALWAYS dust on the toys!) but the strong cup which is integrated into the base design keeps the dildo in place (or sticking on the bathroom wall), even when riding it vigorously.

The second add-on is the cumtube which is a tube cast in the middle of the toy. It comes with a syringe you can fill with (cum-like) water-based lube and shoot it into your ass, simulating the feeling of the dragon’s dick cumming in you. Naturally, such a tube makes cleaning the toy more difficult. Also, in my testee panel the opinions on the cumtube’s effect are split. Some love it, some find it overrated. I would recommend ordering one of their Lil’Squirt toys to try out the effect for yourself before investing money into a bigger toy with a cumtube.

Detail of the Egg’s Suction Cup

Playing with the Dildos

Egg Plug

The Egg Plug is an unspectacular plug by Bad Dragon standards: The body has roughly the oval shape of an egg and the neck and base is modeled after a golden egg cup. No ridges, no bumps, no frills at all but a thing ornament line where the “egg” meets the cup and at the top rim of the base.

While this might sound dull and actually uncreative – especially keeping in mind that there are already other manufacturer who make high quality egg shaped plugs. However, this product is the answer to many reader questions: It is the combination of a gentle ass-opening toy with the colorfulness of Bad Dragon. The smooth and round shape are perfect to pre-stretch the hole to take larger and/ or more textured toys. Especially in combination with the suction cup (which my egg has), it is ideal for riding, training the sphincter to open up. So it is a good toy for working up to a fist. Unlike its main competitor with which this toy shares a name, the Bad Dragon Egg Plug is an action toy. The large base and relatively large neck diameter compared to the maximum stretch make it difficult to wear over extended periods of time.

My Egg Plug is in the Signature color which a little custom twist: The cyan glows in the dark, making it almost a desk decoration item.

Detail of Tucker’s Glans

Tucker the Equinine

Tucker is the combination of the best of two world: A horse dick for depth and a knot for width.

Almost like the small brother of Chance Unflared Tucker starts out with a roughly dome-shaped glans which has a rim with small bumps. The glans flows quiet steeply into the shaft. The shaft is lightly textured with veins and increases slowly in diameter until at the end, there is a dog-inspired thick knot.

Especially in XL (and depending on your anatomy also in L), this design makes Tucker one of the most interesting toys in terms of “stretch” sensation: When the knot pops in, the “dull” glans also penetrates the second sphincter, causing stimulation both deep inside the body and on the anus simultaneously. Besides that, Tucker is also a good “training” toy for Chance. Being shorter and thus easier to control (to which the thick base and knot also adds), just riding the shaft until the knot, helps getting used to how to handle a horse’s glans and dick.

I chose 2nd Kind with a blue base as the color of my Tucker because I like the glow in the dark effect of it.

Sleipnir

Detail of Sleipnir’s Textured Glans with a Thick Rim to Massage the Prostate when riding it

Another horse dick but completely different than Tucker! The dildo starts out with a large and dull glans. Unlike the Chance’s and Tucker’s glans it is textured with ridges which is a good preparation for the thick ridge which runs around it and which provides a steep drop to the shaft. The shaft gradually increases in diameter. The first half of the shaft is textured by three gentle scales on both sides while from the “frenulum” down a line of in size increasing bumps runs. The lower half of the shaft features a mixture of deep ridges with shallow grooves between them.

Sleipnir is heavily curved “upwards” (if it was attached to a horse) so I highly recommend getting the suction cup. Otherwise it will even more easily flip over. The curvature is a useful element because it helps the toy to go really deep in doggy while the line or small ridges stimulate the prostate. Though you do not need to go that deep. Just riding the head is enough to start with since the thick ridge around the rim is great for a prostate massage.

Colorwise I followed Bad Dragon’s inspiration and went for Sleipnir’s Signature.

Square Peg Longneck Humped

Form: Dildo/ Depth Trainer
Material: Platinum Silicone.
Colors: Graphite and Bronze
Firmness: Soft
Lube: Water, Oil
Cleaning: Soaking in hot water with dish-soap than use sanitizer.
Safer Sex: Clean and sanitize it thoroughly
Storage: Store in a well-ventilated place not touching other toys to prevent damage.

Vendor: Mr S Leather (USA) & Regulation (UK)

The Square Peg Longneck Humped

Construction

The Longneck Humped starts out with a plug section which looks a little bit like a goose’s head or a hand with closed fingers for a fisting. It tapers conically over the first 65mm for very easy insertion, then one side smoothly increases to a bump with a max. diameter of 70mm. Below this plug-like head the shaft tapers like on a Slink with a faint, almost Acorn-like ridge of 77mm diameter above the plug-like neck. The base is a solid and rectangular for a secure stand and to prevent the Longneck to accidently disappear inside the bottom’s ass. The overall length of the Longneck Humped is 360mm of which 300mm are usable.

Detail of the Acorn-Like Cecond Bump of the Longneck Humped

Playing with the Longneck Humped

As already written: The Longneck Humped is very easy to insert due to the conically shaped tip. The bump into which it flows is an nifty feature. Through the bump the head does not only resemble the shape of a hand, accustoming the colon to the feeling of such an object moving forward, but it gives the toy a “sense of direction”. You can feel where it goes and through twisting discover which is the easiest way around the bends deep inside the ass. This helps to get a feeling how a hand should navigate when trying to venture in depth play. The solid, “edged” base helps a top to precisely twist and turn the Longneck to find the way of the lowest resistance when slowly and carefully (!) pushing forward. When doing this exploring on your own, the Longneck is a bit more difficult to handle. Through the soft material which makes it easy to move around the bends it collapses and flops easily. This makes it hard to ride and even without a suction cup, the stickiness of the silicone makes it hard to twist and navigate the toy when the base rests on the floor. So you rather move while squatting over it instead of twisting the toy… When lying on the back, it takes both hands reaching back to support the body until it is deep inside the colon. This position takes a lot of body tension, leading to a not really relaxed bowels which makes the play more challenging again. Because of that for beginners, it is a bit more of a couples’ toy. When starting going deep on your own, I would recommend a Slink or Depth Probe.

Detail of the Goose Head-Lile Head of the Longneck Humped

But if you are more experience and due to training the toy finds its way inside you on its own, it is a great toy for self-play and further depth training. Riding it, it hits all the right places. The plug part massages or gently fucks the inner sphincter while the ridge at the bottom targets the prostate and anus. This kind of double stimulation was actually so intense, that some of the testees had to reduce the “usual” fucking speed because they considered the Longneck Humped too intense.

Where to buy?

In the USA you can get the Longneck Humped at Mr S for $169.95 and in the EU from Regulation for £169.99.

Family Portrait of the Other Longneck Varietes

The Humped is part of an entire Longneck family where you can everything for depth play: Starting with a complete smooth version (which has a smaller max diameter and overall length than the Longneck Humped) over one textured humps to a version with delightfully mean bumps to one for REALLY deep play.

Oxballs Pig-Hole FF

Toy Properties

Form: Tunnel Plug
Material: Silicone
Colors: Black and Red
Firmness: Medium; does not collapse when standing up.
Lube: Water and Oil based. Silicone or hybrid lube can destroy the toy!
Cleaning: Soaking in boiling water with dish-soap than use sanitizer.
Safer Sex: Expose to boiling water to kill germs
Storage:
Store standing up in a well-ventilated place not touching other toys to prevent damaging the toys.

Vendor: Mr S (USA) &  Regulation (EU)

Ever since Oxballs announced in early 2018 that there would be a new, larger version of the popular Pig-Hole tunnel plug, I was inundated with messages when it would come out and once it did, when I would review it. Due to the massive size of this toy, it was a bit difficult to find testees for it. But now I have found enough to finally give you what is probably one of the most anticipated reviews of this year.

Red Pig-Hole FF vs black Pig-Hole XXL

Construction

The Pig-Hole FF follows the same design and shape as the original Pig-Holes. The opening at the top is a bit slanted with a tip for easier insertion. From the opening the body extends to a wide barrel shape and later tapers to a small neck until flowing into a base. The opening measures 48x62mm and the barrel a whopping 93x108mm while the neck “only” measures 55x72mm. This means the Pig-Hole FF is about 20% larger in volume though at 155mm only 5mm taller than is Pig-Hole XXL. The hole in the bottom measures 57x75mm and thus is only about 10% larger than the XXL, but through a more ergonomically re-design of the base, it has roughly the same footprint making it still fit perfectly between the ass cheeks.

The Pig-Hole FF’s Barrel Size compared to the Size of the Pig-Hole XXL

Inside the barrel, there are the same ridges as on the original Pig-Hole though they are about 15% deeper for added stability. Oxballs also increased the wall strength from 6.5mm to 8mm to keep the toy inflated even with a little unwilling holes. This increased rigidness also means that you can’t turn the Pig-Hole FF inside out anymore.

The Pig-Hole FF come in Red and Black and not as during the design process discussed on Twitter also in Oxball’s newest color Steel.

Detail of the same Base Footprint of the Pig-Hole FF and XXL

Playing with the Pig-Hole FF

Two and a half year ago, I started this paragraph talking about that the greatest challenge of the Pig-Hole XXL is the insertion. And with the Pig-Hole FF it is even worse, for two reasons:

  1. The easiest way to get the Pig-Hole in is to fold the plug. But the footprint increased from 48x38mm to 51x47mm. It takes a very loose hole to take a “blunt” surface of that size.
  2. The added rigidness makes it harder to and kept fold. Being prepped for insertion with loads of lube makes that a really difficult task.

Detail of the Ridges inside the Pig-Hole FF’s Barrel for Added Stability

Along with the unfolded size means that the Pig-Hole FF is as toy for really experienced and greedy ass pigs whos hole have been properly loosened up during the scene. But the new design also helps such sloppy holes: Since the length only marginally increased compared to the massive diameter growth, the slopes of the taper are steeper, meaning it will also stay in place more easily. This is also necessary because despite the larger holes on both ends, the thicker material requires actually a bit more strength to fist through the Pig-Hole FF. Again, the good thing for a real stretch pig is that fist fucking with a Pig-Hole FF wrapped around a hand is blissfully intense!

Detail of the Pig-Holes‘ Opening Hole. You can see the Larger Opening and Thicker Wall of the Pig-Hole FF

Being a tunnel plug, you can also do the fun things with the Pig-Hole FF which an open hole offers: Pour in liquids, close it with a plug (my recommendation: Square Peg Acron; the ridge just about the taper almost works like a lock) or make the bottom incontinent for a bit and forcing him to wear a diaper.

Where to buy?

You can get the Pig-Hole FF at Mr S for $124.95 in the USA or Regulation for £109 in the EU.

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