Chastity Harness

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Vendor: VAST

While this piece of gear is call “Chastity Harness”, it is also a nifty piece of bondage gear for rubberists. So even if chastity is not one of your kinks, give this review a read. You might find an interesting piece of gear nevertheless.

Before I start this review, a disclaimer: I have been involved early on in the design process of this gear piece. For the last couple of months, I have been wearing and giving feedback the Chastity Harness. The basis for this review is the prototype which has been modified over the months. While it should be like the final product, please excuse minor deviations.

The VAST Chastity Harness with the Codpiece Flap

As always on projects like this, my design work has been completely pro bono. I have neither been paid for my work nor getting paid for writing this review or profit from any sales.

Construction

The name “harness” is a bit misleading since this “waist harness” has actually a jockstrap configuration. The main body of this harness is the 38mm wide waist strap which comes in four different sizes, covering a wide range of body types from 70cm up to 119cm waists (roughly W28 to W47 if you American). The belt is closed with a lockable roller buckle which has a latex guiding loop. The male side of the belt features no less than 12 holes of the buckle for a finely adjusted fit. On both the top and bottom of the belts runs a line of Ø3.5mm holes which are 20mm apart. Using book screws you attach the thigh straps and other accessories to the main belt. If you are on the lower end of the waist circumference the belt can flop around a bit. Simply use one of the book screws to attach the belt end to the body. Since the buckle is locked, you are not going to take it off anytime soon anyway, or?

The chastity harness comes with two 20mm wide thigh straps. In order to assemble the Chastity Harness to your body, put the waist strap around on. Then attach the thigh straps about four or five holes left and right from the center using the book screws. For attachement on the rear you have two options and two possible configurations. Either you can use the a 20mm roller buckle attached to a small strap of Superior Latex or use redirectors through which you thread the strap and attach it to itself with the screws. The redirectors were my suggestion because if you use the belts, you have to fold the excess strap which for me disturbed the clean and sleek look. Since you have both options, give them a try and look what you like best! For attaching the buckle/ redirectors, you can either place them where your hips meet your ass cheeks for the jockstrap look. But you can also run them parallel to your tailbone to lock a butt plug in place. For this configuration, I actually recommend the roller buckles because it makes closing the straps easier once the toy is in place. Once assembled to fit your body, you can take this harness off like any other jockstrap plus opening the buckle up front.

The Kink3D Cobra Cage with the Strap Ring Attached to the Harness

To attach the chastity cage (or of you want are not into chastity also a not too thick cockring of course) to the harness, it comes with two pairs of slightly curved straps. The only have smooth latex on one side and bare Aramid on the other side. Being only half as thick as the other strap, the easily bend around the base ring of your chastity cage. Once bend around, attach them to the thigh straps using the screws again. The longer straps are for attaching it directly to the base ring or a cockring, the short ones are for attaching the Kink3D Strap ring.

A first (and hopefully not last) addition to the system is the Codpiece Pouch. In addition the codpiece flat itself, it comes with four short latex pieces with an attachment hole on side and the male side of the snap button on the other side and the corresponding book screws to attach it to the thigh straps. The codpiece flat is made out of 0.6mm latex. This makes the material thin enough to display a bit of chastity cage imprint.

All belts and connectors of the Chastity Harness are made out of VAST’s Superior Latex which is two layers of latex with a reinforcing layer of Aramid between them. Aramid is a fiber used for making ballistic body armor fabrics or sails so it can withstand a lot of force. These properties it lends the latex which you can now grab and pull without damaging it. On the codpiece flap, only the corners where the snap buttons sit are Aramid reinforced. All metal parts, including the snap buttons, are made out of stainless steel so the metal does not damage the latex. The female side of the book screws has a smooth domed head, the male has a slit for a screw driver. Depending if you prefer a rougher or sleeker look, put the smooth head on the outside.

The Codpiece Flap Showing Little Chastity Bulge since not being Worn on a Body

At the moment, it is only available in plain black Superior Latex. But since all gear is handcrafted in Dortmund, I assume you can ask for special colors. My personal with would be adding a – in my case – red contrast stripe to match my rubber harness. The codpiece flap I have already seen a version with a red stripe in the middle so I assume we will see some more colors soon.

Playing with the Chastity Harness

First, let’s talk about the chastity aspect. This harness is basically the gear head/ rubber fetishists alternative to the Mr S neoprene strap I reviewed two weeks ago. Once the base ring is connected to the harness, it is pulled closer to the body, keeping the cage upright. If the harness sits tightly, pulling your dick out is even harder than it is already with a correctly sized dick and base ring so it adds a bit of security.

Since the connecting loops are made out of a single layer of thin and soft latex, you can use your existing base ring. You might feel them a bit but due to the limited time you will be wearing the harness (more on that later), it will most likely not cause an issue. For added comfort, buy either a ring one size larger (with the harness tightly attached, this will not be a security risk) so it has a bit of wiggle room or one of the Strap rings if you own a Kink3D chastity cage which makes wearing the Chastity Harness a bit more comfortable. If you are going to wear the Chastity Harness on a more regular basis, I would recommend getting a dedicated ring anyway. This saves you taking out the screw driver every time you want to put the harness on.

The Locking Roller Buckle with the Guiding Loop and a Prototype of the D-ring Enclosing Strap

The locking of the waist belt is a nice psychological feature as it makes it impossible to take the harness off. Through this, the top has taken control over your cloths. But the a bit bulky buckle makes it a bit harder to wear under existing gear like rubber chaps. Only wear it under latex gear which you can carefully close in the front (like chaps with snap buttons). Chaps which are just being pulled up can get damaged by the lock or buckle if you are not extremely careful.

Getting the harness fitted for the initially takes a bit of time. When you are impatience like me, I highly recommend doing it together with a friend who can tightening the screws while it is on your body. Once it has been fitted, you can put it on like any other jockstrap with the small exception that you have to open and close the roller buckle since unlike cloth jockstraps it does not stretch to get over the hips.

Hitting the sweet spot between presence and bulkiness the “Chastity” Harness is a hot piece of gear for every more hardcore fetishist. It is the perfect solution for chaste boys who want to go out to a gear night not being naked and still proudly displaying their locked dick – either without any cover or through the imprint of the codpiece flap. Since chastity is only a nice kink of mine, I wore it most of the time with a cockring or without any at all. It was impossible to fit my Mister B Dougnut cockring under the straps but a thinner just round one does work. If you prefer larger cockrings, simply ask VAST for a longer strap when ordering.

The design and in combination with the Superior Latex material makes this rubber jockstrap (there, I finally said it!) a perfect piece of gear for every rubberiest and latex enthusiast. You know how some tops when fucking you tend to grab on your jockstrap’s waist band to pull you closer/ into position, destroying your fav jockstrap in the long run? Guess what, they can pull all they want with this motherfucker. It will not tear!

The Thigh Strap with the Redirector

During the feedback process I have asked for stainless steel D-rings for attaching a harness with downward facing straps (@VAST: maybe make a version of your Superior Latex bulldog harness with downward facing straps, pretty pretty please *puppy eyes*). But why only put them upfront? Put them on the sides, throw in a pair of scissor snap ended loops as handle and start plowing your bottom HARD. The side D-rings are also make this harness perfect for rubber bondage. Tied the bottom to a sling, to a bondage bed, tie his wrists to the side and start (ab)using him as you please. Along with this Chastity Harness, VAST release a Superior Harness strap-on harness (which can probably also be used for pumping and milking machines). If you are creative enough and can suffer through a bit of pressure of the toy base, I am certain with a bit of creativity and additional accessories from VAST you can combine these two gear pieces into one.

Keeping the different functionalities in mind, I am actually using the harness more during bondage scenes than keeping a chastity subs even more locked than he is anyway. Personally, the jockstrap has become a regular in my rubber gear setups, adding a codpiece or a signature piece to an otherwise smooth suit look. Sometimes for parties, I am combining this jockstrap with industrial gloves and waders, fucking with the rubber purists by covering everything but the torso except the junk.

When I first got this piece of gear, I was a bit annoyed how difficult it was to adjust and fit. But once fitted, it has become of the most used rubber accessories/ gear pieces I have worn – if I have not just fitted it to another testeee. It is a piece of gear a bit difficult to share, adding weight to the old saying: The sub owns the gear being put onto him, the top owns the toys being used on him.

The Chastity Harness with a Codpiece covering the Cage

One thing you have to be aware when buying this harness are the material properties of latex! First, latex does not breath. Quickly, moisture will form under it. Second, despite being made out of soft and flowing latex, it is not as flexible as cottom. Both factors combined will lead to chafing when wearing the gear over extended periods of time. Generally speaking, the Chastity Harness is a hot piece of gear for a session, for a party, for overnight but not made to lock a sub into it forever. Not only but especially when he needs a bit of ointment to wear his chastity cage. Natural oils will destroy latex. So if you are using ointments like milking grease or Albolene to keep the skin beneath the base ring smooth and the ring from chafing, do not put the harness on! If you have an issue with chafing (of the rubber loops), use silicone lube or silicone oil instead. If you have used any ointment containing mineral oils, paraffin or natural oils, clean the moisturized skin area and the base ring thoroughly before gearing up. If you wear it during fisting, you must never use oil based lubricants like Crisco or lubes infused with essential oils like clove (which you should never use for safety reasons anyway but that is a different conversation)! After having it worn, wash it – best with rubber detergent – and put silicone oil or talcum powder on it. Store it best loosely dangling from a hanger (do not let it touch other garments since getting silicone or talcum stains out of fabrings is a bitch) which will prevent creases.

Conclusion: Heavy duty piece of latex bondage – from simple chastity to elaborate setups
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Made for heavy duty place Initial fitting is a bit difficult and is best done with a friend VAST 179€ Chastity Harness

69€ Codpiece Pouch

199€ Strap-On Harness
Lockable
Wide range of play possibilities
Difficult to care for (like all latex)
Covers wide range of body types

Aluminum Paddle

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The Martyrius Atelier Aluminum Paddle next to a Spatula Acrylic Paddle

Vendor: Martyrius Atelier

Sometimes, being a toy reviewer can be a bit of a sad profession. Today, I wanted to review a spatula shaped acrylic paddle I bought from an US marker last year. While preparing for the review, I learned that he has a terminal illness and stopped making toys. So instead of writing about a toy I can only tell you that you cannot get it anymore, I will review next week’s toy today.

Construction

As the name of the toy says, it is made out of a single piece of milled aluminum. At 4cm width it is almost more a blade than a paddle. The overall length of the toy is 42cm, from which the top 27cm are the hitting surface which then tapers towards a grip. At the bottom of the grip is a hole through which you can thread a wrist loop though it does not come with one. With a material thickness of 1cm the paddle weights a hefty 360g.

Profile of the 10mm Thick Aluminum Paddle with the Chevron Grooves

The Aluminum paddle has to two different sides. One is smooth, the other is textured by ten 3mm deep and 5mm wide chevron-shaped grooves. The top three chevrons go through the entire material thickness except a 10mm wide border. In addition to these “vents” (more on that later), there are thee Ø7mm holes 5,5cm apart on the lower part of the body.

There are several colors to choose from: Either solid black and red or elaborate splash colorations. Weirdly, they do not offer an unpainted silver version.

Playing with the Aluminum Paddle

For various reasons, the Aluminum Paddle is not for beginners. It is delicate toy which needs careful handling in order to damage the bottom or the top!

First, there is the handling. Due to the nature of the material, it is far from balanced. Otherwise there would need to be a chunk of metal at the end of the grip. This means, you need a bit of power to stabilize the paddle when swinging; it is a not a toy you can let “fall down” onto a bottom. It will not develop momentum, so you have to put energy into each blow since it will not swing back. Because of this, it will tire out your wrist.

The Grip Section of the Aluminum Paddle

Second, you need to strike carefully. Due to the firmness and weight of the toy, it can cause serious harm! Only use it on well padded body areas like the middle of the ass or the thighs. The calfs with their complex tibula and fibula bones is on most subs a too frail body area. Personally, I would not recommend testing how thick and well padding their muscle padding it. The narrow shape of the toy would theoretically make it perfect for bastinado or hand palm hitting. But since the small and thin bones sit directly below the skin, you can only tap them. Hard blows will lead to bone fractures or worse! So please be sensible when using these toys or resort to – almost equally severe – leather ones.

Since the aluminum is so stiff and heavy, tapping with the toy does not create many sensations. Yes, there is a light tapping sensation (who would have guessed). But to envoke any reaction beyond that, you really have to put force into it which can be dangerous (see above).

But if you have the wrist and arm strength to really put force behind your blows onto a sub’s ass, you can unleash mayhem on him! Being so narrow, the force and thus pain is narrowly focused. Even more when you use the textured side. The chevron shaped grooves allow the air to escape so it cannot form a – albeit small – dampening cushion. In addition to that, the impact energy is focused on the chevron shaped areas between the grooves. If you move to paddle laterally while hitting, there is also a bit abrasive sensation from the crisp yet not sharp edges.

The Smooth Side of the Aluminum Paddle with the Air Vents which Reduces the Air Cushion

The smooth side is a bit softer since it distributes the impact energy more evenly. But the holes and the cut through chevrons on top allow most trapped air between the body and the paddle to escape easily. For tapping with the tip, I recommend using that side because targeting is easier.

One of the great feats of aluminum is that it easily takes on temperature. So if you want to offer your sub an unexpected sensation, either cool it with ice or cooling packs or heat it over a flame. Just be a bit careful. Since the paddle has so much mass, it can absorb a lot of temperature energy so it can get very cool which will make it stick to the skin or very hot.

This also applies to cleaning. If you use this toy with multiple partners, the Aluminum Paddle is easy to clean. Being made out of metal, sanitizer, bleach or heat does not do the material any harm. If you want to use bleach, use it as an inconspicuous place to see if it alters the color.

Conclusion: Intense and heavy paddle for tops who can handle hefty toys.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Virtually indestructible Does not develop momentum, tires the wrist Martyrius Atelier 99€ (solid color)

129€ (multi color)
Easy to clean
Intense impact sensation with little energgy
Needs to be handle carefully on not heavily padded boy areas

Ultimate Humbler

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The Ultimate Humbler with the Ball Stretching Ring & Crusher Plate

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

This humbler is made out of 35mm tall and 23mm wide bar made out of stainless steel. The corners and sides are rounded and there are no visible weldseams or sharp edges on the body of the toy. In the center is a 100mm long straight part onto which 180mm long, slightly curved wings are attached. In the center section, there is 40mm wide opening. On one side, the wall slightly bulges to the side, on the other side there is bulged hatch, creating a 35mm deep opening. The hatch’s hinge is slightly recessed which prevents skin getting caught. It is closed using a hex screw on top and a locking pin for a padlock with a tiny shackle in the bottom.

Left and right of the hole of the balls two 140mm long M6 threaded rods are welded. To smooth the sharp ends of the thread each rod comes with a PVC cap. But the sit so loosely that the fall off easily when the bottom moves a lot. That’s why I only have one left.

The Spiky Side of the Crusher Plate

Onto these rods two accessories can added. First, there is what looks like a 14mm tall ball stretcher ring with an internal diameter of 34mm. It is hinged and is also closed by a hex screw. If you turn the milled ring nuts below the wings which ride on the threaded rods, you can stretch the balls even further. If you want to add even more painful stimulation, the Ultimate Humbler comes with a round plate with surprisingly sharp pins which can be pressed against the ball using wing nuts. For a bist softer sensation, use the back side of the crusher plate.

Welded at both ends of the bar are eyelets with a diameter of 11mm. The weldseam is only at the top of the eyelet and rather short so it looks a bit frail. However, despite heavy play and putting a lot of draft on it, it did not fail.

There Eyelets on both Sides

Despite being made out of stainless steel sheet which has been bend into shape, the Ultimate Humbler with all attachments weights 1,250g.

Playing with the Ultimate Humbler

The Ultimate Humbler addresses one of the most annoying things about humblers in general: Putting it onto the ball. Traditional humblers are two pieces of wood with a small recess in the middle and tightening screws at the end. In the process either a ball slips or you catch scrotum skin between the two pieces. With this toy, you can easily and comfortably grab the balls, push them into the opening, close the hatch and are done with it. Now comes the tricky part: Due to the long threaded rods this humbler is a bit bulky so pulling the humbler behind the legs, twisting it by 90° and locking it behind the ass can be difficult. The threaded rods also limit the position the sub can be in: Standing or doggy position are as easy as the humbler allows it to be. Kneeeling can already be difficult and laying on the back is impossible.

The Hatch which locks the Ultimate Humbler onto the Sub’s Balls

This was not a big issue for me because the most fun I had with the Ultimate Humbler was when I incorporated it into more complex bondage setups while he could still move. Connecting the humbler to other restraints using the eyelets is great for even more stressful bondage than the humbler will force the sub into by itself. With a bit of rope or tension cords (use shackles if the eyelets are too small) you can build interaction loops where creating ease at one position builds stress at another point.

These kind of feedback loops are even more fun when playing with the pressure plate. Increasing the pressure will make the bottom squirm and move which leads to more tugging. The smooth side works a little bit better in combination with the stretching accessory because the wide rim of the stretcher provides more surface to flatten the balls against. Without it, compressing the scrotum against the rim of the balls hole can be an uncomfortable pain. The spiky side works equally will with or without the stretcher. But you have to be careful when using it. The spikes are really pointy and sharp! With enough pressure they can break the skin.

Weighing over a kilogram, just locking the Ultimate Humbler onto a standing sub’s balls can be the origin of intense fun play. First it dangles between his legs like a yoke, tugging on this balls. Then add some more weights or connect the eyelets to his feet. Finally, induce some pain either through caning or electro or wax whatever you like. As soon as he starts to move, the tugging effect will intensify. Just make sure he cannot move too much because thrashing ones thighs into the thread rods is no fun pain.

The Ultimate Humbler completely Assembled

While this is a great albeit bulky toy for heavy CBT enthusiast, it is sadly only made for a specific group of subs. He needs balls which are both hanging extreme low hangers and are big yet not too meaty. If you cannot fit the ball comfortably in a 40mm tall ball stretcher, they will be too tight. Due to the leverage and movement of the stretcher barely covering the 35mm height is not enough. Next, if his balls are too small, they will simply slip through. You can compensate for this a bit, if the balls hang low enough to fit into the stretcher accessory right away. But his sack must not be too meaty because otherwise it will not fit into the humbler’s opening or the stretcher accessory at all. In the past months, I had several subs who were so desperate to play with this toy but their physiology was not simply made for it.

So, if you are into heavy CBT, I recommend trying if you can fit into the toy, because it offers great play possibilities. But it is sadly not made for everyone.

Conclusion: Versatile yet very heavy humbler for guys with extreme low hangers into heavy CBT and complex bondage.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Various play possibilities Only made for big, not too meaty low hangers Regulation £109.95
Additional Bondage Points
Lockabel
Sturdy Heavy
Perpendicular threaded rods are cumbersome

Kink3D Strap Ring

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The Kink3D Strap Ring Base Ring

Vendor: Kink3D

Hey guys! It’s been a while! What I had planed to be a shortish early summer break was extended due to daytime work stress and other shit. But now that Locktober is approaching and some of you will be attending Folsom street fair in San Francisco next week where a lot of kink purchase will be made, I decided today would be a good time trying to come back.

Construction

The Strap Ring is a special feature version of the base ring you need to lock your Kink3D Cobra or Viper chastity cage onto your body. Left and right of the lock loops have been added through which belts can be threaded. The loops have a width of 27.5mm and a clearing of 8mm so one inch wide belts fit easily.  The ring is available in all the diameter sizes and ring styles – XD for smaller & tighter balls, curved for meaty low hangers – like the standard ring and comes either in black or white.

The Strap Ring Attached to a Viper

This version of the base ring was launched together with a 35mm wide neoprene waist straps made by Mr S in their traditional black edges/ color middle part design in their seven most popular colors to match their iconic neoprene accessories like harnesses. It comes in three sizes covering a range of 28’’ – 46’’ waists. The length can be adjusted with snap buttons either on both ends or at the back.

Playing with the Kink3D Strap Ring

Especially when you are wearing a larger cage or have massive or low hanging balls which require a larger gap between the cage and the base ring, the entire cage can shift forward. By doing so, it creates a compact and heavy package away from the body which can feel uncomfortable, can get momentum when moving or chafing which makes wearing the cage 24/7 more difficult. The new base ring together with the strap, pulls the locked junk towards the body. Sitting closer to the body, both its footprint and leverage/ momentum is minimized. This especially good when you wear looser underwear or do sports which include running or cycling. Despite the large mechanical forces between the legs when moving them quickly, the cage securely stays in place.

The Mr S Neoprene Strap around the Kink3D Viper

The level of security and fit under these circumstances surprised me since neoprene is so soft and stretchy. These properties also makes the strap is almost unnoticeable. If you adjust it carefully, it sits right below your belt on your hips. At the front, it has to sit lower in order for the belt not to press the lock into your groin. The comfortable softness and stretchiness comes at a small price: Serious morning wood will push the cage forward and drag the strap along.

The combination of strap and cage itself, is also a sexy look. Depending on the location, just wearing the combo, can be a look in itself. For upcoming outdoor events especially in San Francisco where you can get away with it, the strap can work as an anchor point for belt pouches. Just don’t over load them! As said before, neoprene is stretchty and will sag when weighted too much.

One small drawback has the neoprene strap: The end of the strap is finished with a metal fitting. Since the strap is 35mm wide, it takes a bit of fiddling to get that end through the 27.5mm wide loops. Once the ends have been pushed through, the strap sits securely inside the loops on the base ring.

The Strap Ring used as an Anchor Point for Mr S Harnesses, left with a Standard Carabiner, right with a Scissor Snap

A probably unintended but nifty use case is using the Strap Ring as a cockring anchoring point for harnesses with downward straps like the Mr S Trojan leather harness or Neoprene Crossbow harness. There used to be straps to put around cockrings to anchor these harnesses onto something when you wear gear without belt loops like sportswear or preferred a tighter V pointing straight to your junk. But they vanished some time ago. You can substitute these straps by using the Strap Ring as a cockring and snap the harness’ carabiners into the loops. If you want to do this, I highly recommend getting an at least one size larger ringer than you would get for locking your dick. Generally, a chastity cage base ring is a bit smaller than a cockring you wear for fucking all night long. Clipping your harness into the Strap Ring works best when the harness has scissor snap hooks on the end. Mr S used to only work with these kind of carabiners. A couple of years ago they started using standard carabineres where the lever can making opening a bit tricky.

Conclusion: Perfect combo to keep your massive chastity package close to your body.  
Pro Cons Where to get Price  
Solution to keep even the largest and heaviest chastity packages close to the body Strap ends are a bit too wide to thread easily through the loops Strap Ring $75
Mr S Neoprene Strap $30
Perfect for pairing with groin strap harnesses

Short Update on New Content

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Trying to get in Character to Write new Reviews in my Study

Hey perverts! Hope you are doing well and are enjoying your summer.

Since I promised new reviews and articles starting in June, just a short update why there are not contet updates at the moment. The primary reason is that my daytime job is currently very stressful. This leads to me needing the weekend for recovery in various, sometimes exhausting ways. ToyTorture.com is still and will remain a 100% non-commercial hobby without ads or anything. So the occupation which pays my bills, for new toys and the server to keep this little pocket of the internet running, take precedent over everything elese.

Another reason is that returning from a business trip, I forgot my private tablet in a train. Despite forgetting it at the terminus, it was not found. On the tablet was the finished article about Anal Depth Play 101, the personal piece about my individual approach to chastity and rough drafts of a couple of reviews. Since I like to write on premise and did not send me the docs yet, these pieces are lost for good I fear. In IT there is a saying „No backup, no compassion“ so I do not expect sympathies. But it also means that these reviews have again been pushed up.

Hard at Work in my Playroom

In August I have a couple of days off scheduled which might give me time to write, if a muse kisses me (please apply on my socials if this is your occupation). So maybe/ hopefully/ probably something new will come then.

While you are waiting for new posts, maybe check out my popular 101s and Guides or browse the short series Best for Self Play Anal Toys, E-Stim, CBT, Edging & Milking and Bondage which I wrote at the onset of COVID but which are still relevant today.

Until then, have a great time and if you see me at one of the upcoming prides in Germany, say „Hi“, give me a hug or…

Heat, Play & 24/7 Gear – Advice on Collars, Chastity & Confinement Play in the Summer

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This kind of full enclosure bondage is not for hot temperatures

The first heat wave of the summer was one of the major topics the past days. It was so hot that several pride marches, inluding major ones like in Paris for example, were cancelled due to health and safety concerns for the participants. The sentiment that this will be the coolest summer for the rest of our life is still echoing. So it is no wonder that I have gotten several questions about gear like chastity cages and collars which some subs would like to wear 24/7 and their heat suitability.

(Confinment)Play & Chemsex

While I have gotten your attention, a quick word of general advice when it comes to play: The hot weather puts extreme stress on your circulation. Avoid play which adds stress like stress or suspension bondage, especially when the body is not upright. Putting people into body bondage gear like strait jackets and sleep sacks or hoods limits the evaporation of sweat and thus its cooling function. Even when the bondage gear feels cools to the touch, the temperatures inside can be dangerous already. Please also limit the usage of substances like poppers which puts additional stress to the circulation system or other chems which in addition can fuck with you thermo regulation. Please be safe & sensible! The summer is long and there will be cold, rainy days where intense play can help pass the time.

Freely Dangling Metal Bits like this Horse Shoe Piercing can become incredibly hot

Collars

Let’s start with collars since this is probably the most often piece of gear in the kink community. The collar covers the neck and thus the main blood vessels leading to the brain and also the vagus nerve which is influential in the thermo regulation of our body. Putting these critical systems under additional heat stress is not a good idea. Because of this I would not recommend rubber collars. Rubber heats up quickly, especially under sun light and can lead to heat burns. In addition, the silicone oil which makes it shiny focuses the sun light which can increase the likelihood of sun burns on the edges. Since rubber is destroyed by natural and fats oils, the protective oil film sun screen creates, should not touch the rubber. In addition to sun screen, UV light also is not good for rubber. So all things considered, do not wear rubber collars in the current weather, especially when it is exposed to (direct) sunlight.

The next big fetish material collars are made out of, is leather. Except accumulated heat, UV radiation bleaching out the leather and black leather getting very hot, there is technically no reason not to wear a leather collar. However, leather requires special care in the heat. The night temperatures and the salt in your sweat will dry out the leather. So I recommend a daily wash with saddle soap to the sweat and grim out of the leather and condition it with leather fat afterwards to keep is nice and flexible.
The probably most uncritical collar material is neoprene. It can withstand UV radiation, sun screen and heat to some extent. When it has gotten sweaty, simple was with dish soap, rinse and let dry. If you are going to wear a collar 24/7 in this heat, make it a neoprene one.

All leather collars but especially posture collars are not ideal for heavy heat

Like neoprene, steel chain collars do not mind heat, radiation or sun screen. They are cleaned even more easily and dry more quickly. But metal can store a lot of heat so they can get incredibly hot. While the connection to the body cools the chain, it can lead to heat burns. Their shiny surface can also reflect the light sun back onto the skin, increasing the UV dosage on around the collar so apply extra sun screen.

Other metal accessories like aluminum or stainless steel dog tags which dangle freely, cannot transfer warmth to the body so they can heat up a lot. When they then accidentally touch the skin, it can leads to burns.

A recent trend is incorporating NFCs into 3D printed dog tags to easily share social media info by tapping. Under extended exposure to sunlight the circuits inside the tag can melt, especially when the tag is black. So don’t wonder if it does not work anymore after a long pride march in the blistering sun.

Chastity Cages

So, if metal collars can be potentially dangerous gear in the summer blaze, what about metal chastity cages? Well, that depends on the cage type. Critical are the belt or brief style cages, for example a Lawtowski, Behind Barz or Carrara.Warmer weather bloats our body. So a metal cage which usually fits perfectly can start chafing on the hips. If that gets too uncomfortable or even creates small wounds, give your skin a bit of rest and switch to a cuffed style cage. There is another good reason for that, especially when you are sun bathing in your brief belt.
Our testicles are very delicate organs. In order to produce sperm, they need the right temperature. One of the measures to ensure that your balls do not get too hot is making your balls hang lower. This increases the surface area and thus creates more space for sweat to evaporate. In a completely encased cage, the increased area does not create more evaporation because everything is enclosed. Since metal traps heat, your balls can get too hot. This is even worse when you just wear your cage in the bright sun as an underwear replacement. You basically have put your balls in a camping pot which can lead to lasting damages.

A different Ring Size can Work Wonders when your Body Changes due to the Heat

These lower, looser balls are also the reason why in warm weather, even with a well-fitting base ring, you balls start might slip through it. If that is an issue for you, try a slightly smaller ring for wearing during the dog days of summer. A very soft TPR cockring around the balls can work is you have really loose balls but in the sweaty nether regions this can lead to pinching if you wear it 24/7. The increase of body volume in combination with more sweat and warmth can lead to pinching and chafing at your taint or dick. A rich milking grease ointment with calendula or aloe extracts protects these areas well even if a thick and heavy lotion does not feel nice in hot weather.

If you prefer a more closed or open Chastity Cage is a personal preference. Both have advantages & disadvantages

Another popular question was, are more closed or more open cages better in the heat. Well, that depends. More open cages like the Kink3D Cobra are better ventilated. So your dick cools more easily. But the effect that increases your body volume also affects your dick. So the tissue can uncomfortably press against the bars. Also, your underwear can uncomfortably stick against your skin. This is of course not the case with more closed off cages like the Kink3D Viper where your dick simmers in its own juice a bit. In the end, it is up to personal taste. Personally I prefer the more closed style since I do not like the feeling of my briefs sticking to my foreskin. But the downside of the more closed cages is that cleaning is a bit more difficult – not that some of us pigs care.

Concluding, the essence of this article is like every article with heat advice: Take care of your circulation and don’t stress it more than necessary. Listen to your body and if something does not feel got, stop it. But I know that our sexual organs can sometimes be louder than our critical thinking. Horniness replaces reason, especially when the heat if already dampening our trail of thought. For many of us play opportunities do not come as often as we would like which makes us inclined to not rain check even when the circumstances are not optimal. So this article should serve as a reminder that sometimes even when horniness is pressing, also in kink patience is a virtue. Instead of getting down & dirty, use the scheduled time to eat ice cream with your play partner or sit in the shade and talk about your dreams and desires, connecting in a different way and maybe laying the foundation for even more intense play.

Warning Against the Use of Pump-Up Collars

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In essence, kink is fucking with the body’s bio chemistry. Through controlled and somewhat between safe and risk managing actions the top triggers the release of adrenaline, endorphins and other happy makes. This can be achieved either physically through for example denying it the flight reflex in bondage or mentally through degradation and other mind fuck. Sadly, there are forms of play that are so inherently dangerous that they cannot be done safely regardless what precautions are taken. A couple of years ago, I already wrote about the dangers of shock collars on the neck. Now, there is a new trend toy emerging which is probably more dangerous than most kinksters assume: pump-up collars.

Instead of padding or soft lining inside the belt, these collars feature an air cushion which can be pumped up. For liability reason this is marketed as a feature for perfect fit. The users are urged not pump the collar so much that it restricts breathing or the blood flow to the brain. But of course, this is what these collars are being used for. Since the start of this year I have been getting over two dozens of messages asking my opinion on these toys and where to get them.

In the breath play scene, these collars have quickly gotten the reputation of being mild and safe to use because the cushion pressure is not strong enough to seriously restrict the windpipe. But, it can seriously restrict the two main blood vessels supplying the brain with oxygen. Pumped up these collars subject the sub to a constant, intense choke hold. The body reacts to this with the release of adrenaline and endorphins. Depending on the severeness of the lack of oxygen in the brain, consciousness disturbance and unconsciousness appear sooner than later. To counter this, the body increases both the breathing and the heart rate along with the blood pressure. If the top starts to gradually deflate the collar or worse in an emergency has to take the collar of, the blood shoots into the brain. This sudden increase of blood pressure can lead to ruptures of the fine veins inside the brain, leading to internal bleeding or a stroke. While a stroke happens instantly, internal bleeding develop over times. So the adverse effects which at best is a headache and at worse can be anything between the loss of brain functions up to death can appear hours or even days after the play. The same goes for increases in blood pressure or heart rate from doing physical activities in the following days. The freshly healed wounds can open again, leading to the same symptoms.

Having sent these pieces of information as replies to the reader questions, I have gotten the follow-up question if it would not be possible to slowly deflate the collar. Doing so, the regulatory system of the body would gradually notice to increasing oxygen levels in the brain and reduce the pressure inside the cardiovascular system. So I first talked in engineers what the minimum deflation rate of the vales on these collars are and then talked to doctors. Their consensus is that it is impossible to deflate the collar slowly enough to prevent dangerous injuries to the brain. They strongly recommend not using these collars or better do not do any breath play at all!

So, these collars are like every breath play toy: Especially on social media it looks like everyone is using them without problems – until we sadly have to mourn yet another breath play related death or serious injury in the community. While the look and the dynamic of gradually increasing pressure might be hot and appealing, I strongly recommend to never let a top put them around your neck!

Wonder

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The Friendly Toys Wonder 36

Vendor: Friendly Toys

Following the Good Friday review, I wanted to go on hiatus because until mid-June I have something going on each weekend so writing the reviews would be extra-stressful. But last Thursday, my dear friend Westmind (BSKY/ IG) sent me a picture of a pile of toys asking me if I knew the ripped toy in the middle. Of course, I immediately identified it was the Friendly Toy Wonder and went to ToyTorture.com to look up the link to the review. But there was none. Apparently, I took pictures of the toy in November but forgot to write the actual review. So with my biggest apologies, I dedicate this review to Westmind, hoping it will him help make up his mind regarding this toy!

Construction

At between 350mm and 400mm insertable length, the Wonder is clearly a depth toy. The basic shape of the toy is a cone-shaped core onto which increasingly deeper and wider fins are attached on the wide side of the oval. The fins of each level converge on the narrow side, texturing it with shallow ribs. On top of the body sits an oval cone-shaped tip, giving the Wonder the appearance of an sleek upscale Christmas decoration item. Between the lowest fin and the base is a big gape so you can comfortably knot the toy. The base is considerably larger than the largest diameter so there is little chance of swallowing the toy completely. Its thickness is nice for good ergonomics when holding it as a top. In the middle is a vac-u-lock hole so you can either attach the Wonder to a grip or fuck machine or use it as a guiding hole for your thumb when topping a fistee with it.

The Friendly Toys Pig Logo on the Wonder’s Sturdy Base

Like every anal toy start up in the last 10 years, Friendly Toys makes their sculptures out of platinum silicone. This makes them 100% body safe and easy to clean. Its super smooth surface facilitates easy insertion – if you stick to water or oil based lubes. Sadly, the silicone oil in silicone lube disintegrates the surface of silicone toys, making them sticky and destroying them over time. So stay away from silicone lube when playing with silicone toys. After play, silicone can be cleaned easily by letting the toy soak in warm soap water, let dry and finally spray sanitizer on the toy.

While platinum silicone can come in various firmness degrees, Friendly Toy only uses Shore 00-30 which is quite soft. Silicone can also be easily colored. At the moment, Friendly Toys offers only solid colors and no patterns like marbles or fades. You can choose between a hot pink, bright orange, slightly greenish yellow, purplish blue, deep teal and classic black.

The Wonder comes in three sizes with the name corresponding to the maximum diameter in inch: The 32 with 350mm insertable length and 80mm diameter, 36 at 380/90mm which I have in my toy collection and the 40 at 400/100 which is currently the largest model. There was chatter on Bluesky on an even larger Wonder 42 being in development which would probably be around 430/11. But due to the deep fins, the Wonder 40 is already difficult enough to get out of the mold. So no idea if they will ever manage that. And to be frank, the Wonder 38, let alone the Wonder 40 is already large enough because…

The Perfectly Tapering Tip on the Wonder

Playing with Wonder

… is a toy for really experienced bottoms with LOOSE holes. While the slope of the tip has the steepness sweetspot for easily opening up the anus, so the toy locks easily in place, even the shallower fins on top are already what I consider intense texture. Their plopping-in sensation is already quite strong, stimulating the anus intensely, leading to some tenseness. And it gets only more and more extreme as you ride down to toy.

In order the ride the toy, you need loads of lube as the surface area is HUGE. Be prepared to spend almost half a bottle of lube to get Wonder slick and slippery.

The final drawback is its ergonomics. The core is relatively small compared to the large mass being attached to it. This in combination with the length and the soft material, makes the Wonder hard to control. When putting it on the ground and squatting over it, it takes some coordination for the toy not to bend away. Once you have taken about one quarter of the toy, these worries melt away and leave pure bliss!

The Increasingly Deeper Fins on Wonder’s Body

If you are open & loose to take a heavily textured toy deep, the Wonder is a must buy! No toy massages the anus lips, the prostate and the second sphincter more rhythmically than the Wonder! Once you have started taking it deep, the genius of the design starts to shine. The steeply tapering tip is sturdy and stiff enough to open up the second sphincter. If a top operates the toy, through twisting the oval shape can actually help this sphincter to open up. Due to texture below the tip being a bit less intense, the second hole does not instantly get overstimulated while the deeper texture down the shaft will put the anus into overdrive already. Though do not be mistaken: The Wonder is NOT a depth training toy! Your second hole needs to be desensitized and trained in order to let the Wonder in with more or probably less ease.

Ususally I say, buy the toy for the hole you want to have not the hole you have. But for the Wonder, I actually recommend starting with the smallest size and eventually work your way up. The 32 is easier to control and easier to take deep while offering plenty of fun even for pro holes. Especially when you tend towards more aggressive, high intensity/ velocity play, the shorter, easier to control toy is a bit more fun. While I do not regret choosing the 36 at Dore Alley last year (the 40 was not release back then), I sometimes wish I would have gotten the 32 which I might have knotted already.

The Vac-U-Lock Hole in the Bottom of Wonder’s Base

If you cannot handle depth at all, take a look at Friendly Toys’ Bloomer which is basically the fins of the Wonder only in short. While looking alike, I assume the ergonomics will be very different. Being shorter, the toy will be considerably blunter, putting more stress on the anus. Maybe, one day I will review these toy too.

Where to buy?

The Wonder, like all Friendly Toys, are sold directly through their website. All three sizes are around one ballpark pricewise with the Wonder 32 starting at 138.95€ and the Wonder 40 only costing 32€ more.

Pain Sticks

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Please excuse the picture quality. I have shot these  in my hotel room with using a small camera and having no proper graphics program on my tablet. So this is raw made in Berlin 😉

Vendor: McHurt

Especially in the run up to events in Berlin like BLF Easter or Folsom Europe, I get many messages asking what my secret tips for kinky shopping in Berlin are. Which stores, away from the gayborhood and Blackstyle I can recommend. On the top of my list is always McHurt, the first ever BDSM store I visited (the butterfly clamps I have bought on this visit over 15 years ago are still in use in my playroom!). Getting there is a bit of a journey, being located directly on the U6 stop Alt-Tempelhof. But it is very much worth it! They have the largest selection of specialized impact toys in the world, interesting bondage gear and fun little toys. While they have an online store, it onl reflects a fraction of their assortment. For example, the pain sticks I am reviewing here, are only available in store.

The McHurt Pain Sticks in the two Versions: Smooth and with the Sphere on the End

Construction

The basis of both toys are 1.5mm diameter stiff round stainless steel wire which are 200mm long. The lower quarter of the wire is covered in PVC shrinking tube forming a grip section. It is about three times are thick as the fire and a bit more anti-skid than the bare metal wire. Even holding the toy just between your finger tips with sweaty hands has a somewhat secure grip.

The tip of the two toys is what sets them apart: One of them is just the deburred and slightly smoothed wire, the other ends in a 8mm diameter stainless steel sphere.

Playing with the Pain Sticks

You probably already have guessed it from the construction, they are very similar to the Carbon Fiber Pain Sticks from Mr S but also quite different. Unlike the Carbin Fiber sticks which as best snapped against the body, grab the bottom of the grip section between your thumb, index and middle finger and hit using your wrist like you would do with a paddle. You can snap with these sticks. The snapping actually feels more intense since the the rod is thinner and thus more foucced. Also the metal is stiffer and has no bounce like the carbon. But, such a thin piece of metal wire can easily be bend out of shape. So expect your stright wires soon to feature a kink abot the gripping section.

The Two different Ends of the McHurt Pain Stick

The stiffness compensates the lower leverage of the shorter length and lower mass since they are incredible light. Hitting the same stop twice, fells light lightnins. Especially when hitting sensistive areas like the glans or the balls. Please be careful when hitting the balls! Because of the laser focus of the kinetic energy being transfered onto the body, hitting the epididymis can lead to serious injuries! If a dragging pain lingers for more than a couple of minutes, go to the ER! While the the smooth wire is pure sting, the one with the sphere on top has a little bit of extremel focussed thud. Getting hit by it creates an interesting sensation: First there is a sharp, focussed sting which then progresses to go deeper as thud.

The smallness makes the Pain Sticks good for hitting small and nimble areas you cannot target with larger toys. One friend of mine is using them to strike fear into his sub’s eyes when he did something wrong and is then hitting the fingers or toes of him. Again, caution is advised since the small bones in these body areas also break easily and you transmit a lot of force.

The PVC Grip

Since both sticks are made out of metal, they conduct electricity well. You can connect them to your e-stim power box using a pole clamp. Of course you will need a second pole for that which could either be a conductive loop, an anal or penis plug, a simple pad electrode or if your are extra devious, another of those sticks. Having wires danngling around is a bit annoying, but the feedback the sub is getting when such low mass, small area poles hit his skin, is best entertainment for any true sadist – and frankly requires a devote masochist. Like with every e-stim, you must ensure that the currency is not running over the chest! So hitting both nipples simultaneously is not possible! If you want to err at the side of caution, play below the waist.

The Kink the Pain Stick Gets after a Couple of Snaps

Some people who see mental toys instantly think off temperature play. These two toys are so so for it. Having little mass and being made out of a well temperature conducting material, they cannot contain temeratures for a long time. If you put them into ice water, they usually get the surrounding air’s temperatur pretty quickly. If you get heat them, the cool quickly. If you heat them too much, the entire rod will get hot and the PVC starts to warm up which is there point where you should stop right away!

Conclusion: Inexpensive, nasty impact toy.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Two versions mit distinct sensations … but takes a time to master properly & safely McHurt but only available in store Plain version: 5€
Inexpensive
Small & nimble Will bend out of shape when snapping Sphere Version: 6€
Easy to handle…