Summer Break!

If you see me at Inferno 48 or Folsom Europe, come up and say „Hi“ (or even better, offer to play with me ;)). If you are not around, see you at this spot on October 13th again. Enjoy the last warm day and the beginning of autumn foliage.

Bad Dragon’s Clayton, Elden & Pearce

From Left to Right: Bad Dragon’s Clayton, Elden and Pearce

Vendor: Bad Dragon

Material

All toys made by Bad Dragon but especially the anal toys are at the top range of the market.  The relatively large number of “Flop” toys on their Clearnace section on their website is testimony that only perfect examples of the hand-cast toys leave their factory in Phoenix, AZ. While a Flop is an inexpensive way to start out your journey into Bad Dragon or a ready made can scratch the rectal itch quickly (in high season, it usually takes 4 to 8 weeks for a toy to be made), I highly recommend to buy a individually customized toy because if you invest so much money into an anal toys, it should be 100% what you want.

There a ton of options out there. The most important choice when it comes to customizing a specific toy it the firmness. There are three degrees:  Soft, medium and firm, with XL toys not available in firm. Choosing the right firmness is weighing off different aspects: Soft toys are good for not yet well trained asses or really large toys because the sphincter can deform the toy a bit to fit well. However the softer the material the less stability a toy has so especially with long toys there is a chance they will collapse easily. The firmness also determines who the texture feels. Cast in soft silicone a ridge might easily flap away while in firm the sphincter might struggle to take it. A good rule of thumb to keep in mind is, the larger the toy, the harder it will feel. In order to get an impression of the different firmness degrees, Bad Dragon sells a set of sample discs.

Detail of the Cooling-Lava Colored Base of Clayton and the Bumps Intensified Ridges

While the firmness can only be felt (or sometimes seen when a toy flips over), choosing a coloring is the most creative aspect when it comes to ordering a toy. The options are almost limitless, starting a patterns exclusive for the specific toy (called “Natural” and “Signature”) or temporary available patterns over fades and marbles to uni colors. Friends and I can spend hours discussing which color would look best on a certain toy. Due to being made out of platinum silicone, the colors will not fade or discolor.

The platinum in the term refers to the catalyst used for curing the silicone. For cheaper silicone tin is used which has all sorts of negative side effects while platinum as a noble metal is body safe and hypoallergenic. Cleaning is also easier because platinum silicone is able to withstand acid or heat. While in theory you can autoclave all Bad Dragon toys, putting them in the dish washer or throw them in hot water with dish soap also does the trick. In this case, the super smooth surface of platinum silicone makes the washing easy so they are the ideal toy to quickly clean between swapping the person taking them up the butt. For that reason toys made out of platinum silicone have replaced all my vinyl and rubber toys over the course of the last few years.

What now follows is a bit of a controversial topic. In theory, silicone toys must not be used with silicone or hybrid lubes. The silicone oil in these lubes disintegrates the silicone, making it floppy and the surface sticky. However, there are a lot of people who use high quality silicone lube on their platinum silicone toys and do not encounter any problems. My personal opinion is to err on the side of caution and not take any chances. Bad Dragon as a good reason why they only sell water-based lube. While platinum silicone is fine with any kind of water- and oil-based lube, my lube of choice for the silicone’s smooth surface are slicker, stickier lubes like Elbow Grease H2O Thick Gel or Vet Gel, especially Kerbel Gleitschleim (which is a very German think I assume).

Detail of the Elden’s Head with the Two Prongs for Easy Insertion

Shape

Today, Bad Dragon offers 66 different anal toys, each year introducing some new ones and phasing out others. Sometimes during special sales, they offer “Legacy Toys” which brings back already phased out toys. While in theory the toys are gender neutral, some are more designed with prostates or a clitoris in mind.

The basic size range of Bad Dragon is S to XL which covers the range from a small dick to (double) fisting. Some toys are also available in Mini or just a one-size toy. So do not fall in love with a design on the product overview page to quickly, you might be disappointed that your favorite dragon dick does not come in an interesting size – like my unhappy love affair with Kippy, Kage and Hunter.

Speaking of dragon dick: As the name “Bad Dragon” already implies, their toys are inspired by anthropomorphic creatures. They started out with just dragons but now feature demons, aliens, werewolves, unicorns, octopi or real animals like horses and dogs. Being inspired by (fantasy) animals most dildos feature a knot (a bulge at the bottom of the shaft). What (almost) all toys have in common is some degree of texturing which imitate veins and scales through bumps and ridges. These elements do not only increase the diameter but also make the toy harder to take. So always take the “deepness” of the texture into consideration when looking at the maximum diameter and pondering if you can take the toy. There is a strong interaction with the firmness and texture. The firmer the silicone, the more intense the texture will be felt. This does not necessarily mean that texture is felt more intense when the toy is in firm because the flapping/ giving in on a soft toy can be more stimulation than to chafe over an unforgiving form ridge. If these textures are too intimidating but you still want the quality and lush designs of Bad Dragon, they do offer tamer toys like a natural dildo called Archer or the Egg which is perfect for training a hole to open up.

Detail of the Veins and Ridges just above Pearce’s Base

When looking at the detailed size charts and choosing a larger size, it is important to keep in mind that the toys scale proportionally: The texturing gets deeper and thus more intense, the knot (most of the time the largest diameter of the shaft) moves down further. Since most anal enthusiasts can easily take larger diameter but are not well with taking big toys deeply, the knot might be out of reach due to being too low.

To some toys, two special features can be added. The first is the suction cup. If you can add it, get it! It makes playing and riding the toy much easier. As a material, silicone is somewhat sticky on its own (that’s the reason why no matter how thoroughly you clean it, there is ALWAYS dust on the toys!) but the strong cup which is integrated into the base design keeps the dildo in place (or sticking on the bathroom wall), even when riding it vigorously.

The second add-on is the cumtube which is a tube cast in the middle of the toy. It comes with a syringe you can fill with (cum-like) water-based lube and shoot it into your ass, simulating the feeling of the dragon’s dick cumming in you. Naturally, such a tube makes cleaning the toy more difficult. Also, in my testee panel the opinions on the cumtube’s effect are split. Some love it, some find it overrated. I would recommend ordering one of their Lil’Squirt toys to try out the effect for yourself before investing money into a bigger toy with a cumtube.

Detail of the Clayton’s Cone-Shaped Tip with three Ridges below

Playing with the Dildos

Clayton the Earth Dragon

Clayton is one of the few Bad Dragon dragons which do not have a knot. The shaft stands upright rising from a big, sturdy base. This uprightness and the gradual increase of diameter makes it a good toy to start exploring depth and preparing to take longer Bad Dragons – if you can take the heavy texture.

The glans is almost cone-shaped for easy insertion. Below it are three deep ridges which especially in soft firmness massage the sphincter and seduce it to open up. The middle third of the shaft has a chain of scales on all four sides with on the back coming from there the frenulum would be are the deepest, almost saw-like, on the left and right they are very subtle. Most of my testees only noticed them when Clayton was turned inside their hole, because the front and back scales are so intense. The last third starts out with two subtle raising, yet noticeable bulges on the topside. Some testees called them “knot” but I think that is an overstatement. The bottom until the base is textured with three deep ridges, their edges being even more texture with little bumps. The ridges do not go around the shaft but have gaps on the top- and underside. Because of this when riding the entire shaft, the mid-section scales are felt more prominently.

My Clayton is colored in its Signature color which is a perfect fit for the story behind the dildos: It looks like lava cooling coming from a bright yellow over rich orange with red highlights to a black-red base. Yellow and orange are usually not my favorite colors but this color quickly became one of my favorite ones!

 

Detail of Elden’s large Difference between the Big Knot and the Thin Neck

Elden the Faerie Dragon

Well… Elden… A toy I have been getting many reader questions about. And the product pictures got me quickly excited about this toy. But it sadly has one big flaw that caused me to re-order a second one in a different firmness, hoping it will fix the issue.

Elden starts out with two little prongs that makes targeting the sphincter easy. Below them is the first little thickening that sets the tone for the bulges running left and right of the shaft until the knot. While the underside it smooth, there is a string of deep bumps on the upside. This heavy texture makes it a good toy to be twisted and gently fucked for maximum anus stimulation. The lower third of the shaft is the massive knot that has four tiny bumps on the sides two thin and deep strains on the upside. The knot flows into a really thin neck which ends in a large base that is heavily textured with bumps and ridges.

Theoretically, Elden has all what I love in a toy: Deep texture for stimulation and a large knot with a tiny base for maximum stretch sensation. BUT: The body of the toy is so heavy, that when being mounted onto the floor using the big suction cup, it collapses completely, making it almost impossible to ride. When fucking someone, one hand needs to hold the base, the other needs to hold and press the knot against the hole. My Elden is soft and I have already ordered one in Medium. Once I have tried that out, I will update this review. But I have also talked to the guys at Bad Dragon if they can make a split firmness with a firm base and neck (ideally additionally extending into the knot) and a body in the firmness of your choice.

4th Kind is the color of my Elden. It looks a bit subtle in the pictures but as soon it starts to glow in the dark or under UV light, the blue highlights really makes this toy pop out.

Detail of Pearce’s Prince Albert Piercing

Pearce the Orc

For years, I misspelled Pearce as Pierce (even the kink world holds challenges for a dyslexic person) because the homophony describes the prominent feature of this dildo: The sculptured PA piercing at the glans. Otherwise Pearce is a fairly standard realistic dildo. From the first look, the evenly shaped glans with the foreskin pulled back (making it one of the few uncut ones from Bad Dragon) should make for an easy insertion. But the large Prince Albert Screw in Ball piercing with a large ball is something an inexperienced hole need to train to take. The experienced ones enjoy the way the big ball massages the prostate when riding the dick. Below the glans there are subtle ridges of the pulled back foreskin. While the shaft might look smooth and dull, the massive increase in diameter causes the anus the swallow the toy once you passed the largest point creating an unexpected feeling of fullness and massive stretch of the hole. Just above the realistically sculptured ball base there are a few subtle ridges and veins but to be honest, you do not feel much of them because you are so focused on the stretch and fullness.

Colorwise I followed Bad Dragon’s inspiration and went for Pearce’s Signature which is a gorgeous woodland camouflage.

Serious Toys Pain Paddle

The Serious Toy Pain Paddle

Vendor: Demask Dortmund

Ever since I reviewed my rubber paddle, there has been a steady stream of reader questions about alike paddles. There are few out there but I keep my eyes open for them especially when visiting stores which carry an unusual assortment and manufacture their own toys – like Demask Dortmund does with this rubber paddle.

Design

There are three different designs available: The Ping Pong Paddle which like the name implies has a round impact area and the Small and Large Paddle. I went to the small one because it is just large enough to hit both cheeks yet nimble enough to hit a single one.

Detail of the Three Rubber Layer

The design is fairly standard. The impact area measures 235x75mm and has a half circle shape at the top. 25mm into this area protrudes the overall 160mm long handle, making the toy overall 375mm long. The impact area is made out of three layers of fabric reinforced industrial rubber. It has a thickness of 6mm which makes it rigid enough for a severe impact yet flexible enough for serious smack. The edges are lightly deburred preventing them from cutting the skin but giving them a stingy edge.

The rubber layers extend all the way through the handle. It is screwed between wood wedge using stainless steel machine screws. Each wedge is about 15mm tall making the handle a bit chunky for small hands despite all edges being rounded for a comfortable grip. The paddle comes in two wood varieties: Light and dark brown. But since I misplaced the note where I wrote down out of which woods they are made, I have to give this piece of information later. At the end of the handle a waxed leather string is forming a loop for easy storage and securing the paddle around the wrist during long scenes.

Detail of the Loop

Serious Toys sells these toys with a 10 year warranty. But to be honest, I cannot see how you could ever break this paddle during normal, heavy usage…

Playing with the Pain Paddle

The paddle truly lives up to its name: It is a paddle that brings pain. When you really get to know the paddle, you can use it even for warm-up or drive a bottom nuts with light taps (I especially recommend the nuts for that). But at the core, the Pain Paddle is a nasty stinger! Even light slaps sting and through the flexibility create a noticeable sound. Putting more kinetic energy into it, will quickly make the pain agonizing! This made the Pain Paddle one of the impact implements of choice when I want to make a bottom scream quickly. Being so light and flexible, the paddle is a bit prone to lessening the blow through the air cushion between the skin and the paddle. I hope they are going to make a holed version of this paddle for even more intense pain!

Detail of the Handles Gorgeous Wood

Through being so light, the Pain Paddle is not a bruised. It quickly reddens the skin though and makes the targeted body area tender but the coloring does not last for long. But do not mistake this paddle for being a lightweight: Over the course of long scenes, it can break the skin! This made the paddle my favorite for “quick & dirty” session: High intensity over short period of time for people who must not show markings because for example they feel uncomfortable with bruises in the gym shower.

Speaking of dirty: The paddle is ideal for playing in group settings where multiple bottoms are taken care off during a night. Regardless if the bottom sweats a lot, the impact presses tissue water out or his skin breaks, releasing blood, the impact area can be cleaned and disinfected easily. The handle of course must be treated with greater care, being made out of wood. Maybe the will release a stainless steel/ aluminum version at some of time, to create a paddle you can literally throw into bleach.

Conclusion: Severe, handcrafted rubber paddle
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Intense pain sensation Handle is a bit large for small hands

Wooden handle makes cleaning a bit more effortful

Demask Dortmund 79€
Colors quickly, does not leave long-lasting marks

E-Stim Systems Duo Pinwheel

The E-Stim Systems Duo Pinwheel

Vendor: E-Stim Systems

It’s been over five years since I reviewed E-Stim Systems’ Monopole Pinwheel. Since then I have been reader questions about the Duo Pinwheel. I thought such a review would be unnecessary because it is just a duopole version but since apparently there is a demand for the review and your wish is my command, here it is.

Design

The basis of this toy are two standard pinwheels with added e-stim functionality. The are 180mm long and the wheels have a diameter of 32mm. For connection to your e-stim box a 4mm banana jack is solidly soldered onto the top of each individual pinwheel. A shrinking hose has been put over the body of the wheel so you can safely grip it. The two pinwheels are connected using machine screws with acorn nuts on both sides, creating a gap of 10mm between the wheels’ bodies. Around the screws and between the two pinwheels are polymer spacers. Also the washers are made out of plastic, so both pinwheels are completely isolated.

Detail of the Spacers

Playing with the Duo Pinwheel

In the Monopole’s review, as always when it comes to E-Stim I warned about currency running over the chest because it can be fatal. The Duo Pinwheel solves this problem. Because both poles are only 15mm apart, the chances of currency not taking the shortest way between both (which is usually the one of lowest resistance) are very very slim. So as long as both poles of the Duo Pinwheel are connected to the same channel of a power box with isolated channels (like the E-Stim Systems 2b or Pebble), the pinwheel can be used all over the body, even the nipples!

Even though, the mass and covered surface area doubles in size compared to the Monopole version, the e-stim sensation does not change much. Regardless of the power box or the program, the sensation will always be a stingy one. It feels like little needle pricks. Though the power level determines whether they are tantalizing or excruciating.

Detail of the Two Banana Jacks

The non-electric pinwheel sensation is a bit different from the Monopole. Since two wheels are now touching the skin, the nerve input is stronger and delicate feelings like tickling are almost impossible to create. The sensation is a light to medium stingy pain which does not break the skin. On the other hand, the sturdier, handier build of the Duo Pinwheel allow for more pressure to be applied without it breaking away when running over the sub’s body. So it finally delivers the sensation most people expect when they see a pinwheel. This comes at a bit of a price because the elegant curving over the sub’s body is kind of hard to achieve with both wheels touching the skin.

 

Conclusion: Easy and all-over-the-body to use skin electrode for intense pain
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Extremely painful on small area Only stingy sensation possible E-Stim Systems £49
Can be used all over the body
Studier build and easier to control than monopole version    

Latin Lover

Toy Properties

Form: Realistic dildo
Material: Platinum Silicone.
Colors: Skin Color, Dark Brown & Black
Firmness: Soft to Medium, custom degrees possible
Lube: Water, Oil
Cleaning: Soaking in hot water with dish-soap than use sanitizer.
Safer Sex: Clean and sanitize it thoroughly
Storage: Store in a well-ventilated place not touching other toys to prevent damage.

Vendor: Clonezone

Construction

The Latin Lover is a realistic dildo with balls and a small base. Inside this base is a hole for a Vac-U-Lock adapter. For this review, Clonezone sent me the size S out of the 4 possible ones. The dildo has a maximum diameter of 60mm just at the glans’ rim and 52mm just above the balls. The usable length (unlike you can and want to take the balls) is 162mm and the overall length a handy 215mm.

The Mr Hankey Toys Latin Lover

Like all Mr Hankey toys, the Latin Lover is made out of platinum silicone. The “platinum” in the name refers to the catalyst used to cure the silicone. Unlike other metals used like tin which is often used for cheap silicone, platinum is hypoallergenic and doesn’t cause adverse effect inside the body. But platinum is not only hypo-allergenic but it makes the silicone resistant towards heat and acid and the surface super-smooth. Because of that, the Latin Lover is easy to clean: You can throw it into hot water, add acid for sanitizing or autoclave it. Due to being so easy to clean and sanitize, platinum silicone toys are perfect for playing with multiple partners in a safe way. Just quickly yet thoroughly clean and sanitize them between deployments and you are ready to go again.

Detail of the Vac-U-Lock Hole in the Base

The Latin Lover falls in the category of a realistic dildo. It starts out with a glans which is molded with great attention to detail. Even the meatus is recreated. Below the rim of the cut head there is a little groove until the shaft begins. From the frenulum a very prominent ventral groove dominates the backside of the dildo almost all the way down to the balls. The entire shaft is covered with subtle veins and small ridges just like skin stretching over the cavernous bodies. At the bottom of the shaft, there is a pair of medium size and somewhat tight balls. It looks like the dick and the balls are a bit tied up because there is a thin ridge running around the shaft base, the balls and the penis root.

Detail of the Veiny Texture of the Shaft

Playing with the Latin Lover

To be blunt: At first sight the Latin Lover is a standard, middle of the road realistic dildo a bit on the larger size due to the 60mm diameter on the tip. But with a bit of training, loads of lube and maybe a plug for pre-stretching, the soft, forgiving material will make an insertion pleasurable. So the Latin Lover is ideal when you want to fuck yourself or pleasure a partner – especially through the Vac-U-Lock hole at the bottom. The balls are very decently sized for a firm grip but especially for piston style fucking or self-play, getting a grip with a Vac-U-Lock adapter makes handling of the dildo easier. For riding it, I highly recommend a suction cup with such an adapter. Naturally, this feature predestine the Latin Lover for all people into strap-on play.

Detail of the Realistic Glans

So much for the boring part. Now why pay a relatively high price for a kind of toy which can be purchased for a fraction of the price? It is all in the details. The high quality material is not only easy to clean but in combination with the painstaking attention to detail of the shaft design, the Latin Lover is almost indistinguishable from a real dick. If before play you let it soak in a bit of warm water, it will take on the temperature and feel even more like a human dick.

Detail of the Ventral Groove

But this website would not be ToyTorture.com if the Latin Lover would not have a little kinky trick up its sleeve: The ventral groove. This ridge is way thicker and broader than on a “normal” human dick. Then you twist and turn the Latin Lover while fucking a hole, it intensely massage the sphincter and seducing it to open up for larger toys. This effect is the greatest when the sphincter is around the middle of the shaft targets because the ridge is the highest there. This elevation also focuses the friction sensation and the pressure on the ridge a bit. A skilled prostate milking top in my testee panel noticed that with a bit of targeting practice he could fuck a prostate orgasm out of his subs using the ventral groove.

Where to buy?

The Latin Lover can be bought at Clonezone for £125.99 for the size S featured in this review up to £215.99 for the whopping XL.

ToolBits Silicone Sounds

The Square Peg TollBits B, F, H and I

Vendor: Regulation (EU)/ Square Peg (USA)

Construction & Basic Play Advice

The ToolBits like all Square Peg sounds are hand-made in Oregon out of their graphite colored platinum silicone. Though the color is not as deep and rich as in the anal toys but a bit more opaque. Like the Square Peg anal toys the material is very soft & squishy and has a super smooth surface. While the super smooth surface helps them to glide easily into the urethra, the softness allows the complex textures to simulate this sensitive body area without causing harm. Also, it compresses the sound when it should get tight. This property is necessary, because most of the designs are considerably larger than the “standard” sounding play sizes of 6mm or 8mm. Furthermore it makes these sounds great for play while a PA is still inserted. This being said while through their softness they theoretically are good for beginners because they cannot injure the urethra, they are a bit harder to handle, especially when the piss hole is not used to being stretched and the sphincter just below the meatus has to be gently (!!!) pushed open. So I recommend training with a smooth metal sound to open up this hole and later introduce the delights of the ToolBits’ texture. All of these toys have a short hexagonal base which allow a somewhat secure grip even with lubey hands and prevent it from accidently being swallowed hole.

Detail of the Hexagonal Base

Before and after play, the ToolBits need to be properly and thoroughly sanitized! Otherwise playing with them can lead to nasty infections! Being made out of platinum silicone means, they are not only 100% body-safe and hypoallergenic but can basically be treated like stainless steel or aluminum urethra toys when it comes to cleaning: They can be boiled, autoclaved, put in the dishwasher or thrown into bleach – or just soaked in hot dish soap water, dried and then sprayed with a sanitizer.

The Color Difference between the ToolBits‘ and the Anal Toys Graphite

Like all things that go into your urethra, they should only be used with sterile water-based lube. Period! End of discussion! Ever since I started reviewing urethra toys, I have been getting messages, asking if there are instances where you can use a different kind of lube or that people have been using silicone lube without any problems, etc. So let me emphasis it here again: Water-based lube gets absorbed by the body, silicone- and oil-based not, providing nourishment for bacteria! To even further decrease the chances of that happening, use sterile lube in small sachets because one you open a tube of sterile KY lube, it becomes unsterile. So I strongly recommend getting the more expensive small sachets so be safe than sorry!

All TollBits come in a nifty rectangular plastic box with vinyl like covers for easy storing. While Regulation does not carry all reviewed toys and all sizes, they can custom order them for you; just write to them. I got all my sounds through them.

Looking at the Individual ToolBits

The ToolBits are named with just single letters. Instead of describing them alphabetically, I decided to talk about them in increasing level or intensity.

Detail of the H’s Beads

H

With a diameter of 7mm the H is one of the thinnest ToolBits and thus the easiest to take. If an 8mm stainless steel sound goes in and out the meatus easily, you are ready for the H. The texture is a strand of 4mm tall beads with a 2/3mm neck between each one. There are 13 beads over the length of 82mm. Before the body flows into the base there is a 6mm tall barrel with 4 very faint ridges, like a machine screw’s thread. If you insert the toy all the way and you have a very sensitive sphincter, you can actually feel the ridged gently tantalizing it. Because the texture is so smooth and calm compared to the other sounds reviewed here, it is also a good toy to start venturing deeper into your dick because while the sensations of being stimulated deep inside the shaft are intense, through the evenness and smoothness of the texture they are still well to handle.

The ToolBit H costs $39 at Square Peg.

E

Detail of the E’s Vortex

The tip of the E is a five-ridge woodscrew-thread like vortex which starts out with 4mm diameter and increases to 7mm over a length of 26mm. The grooves between the ridges are about half a millimeter deep so when you twist and turn the sound inside the urethra you get a spinning feeling. The grooves also contain lube very well so the fins glide smoothly. Below the vortex the is a 4mm thick and 10.5mm wide disc. Most of my testees used this as the sign of how deep they can go. Two very eager urethra players pushed it through the sphincter and sounded deep with the E; after the disc there is a 27mm and 8mm thick shaft. There is a bit of taper towards the maximum diameter of the disc and since it is not too thick, it gives in but pushing it though the sphincter does feel intense. Since now there is an intense stretch inside the shaft of the dick, only the tip of the vortex is felt deeper inside but only faintly. All sensations are overpowered by the stretch sensation and the friction around it. Give it a try, but this kind of deep sounding with the E did not win favors with me and my testee panel.

The ToolBit E costs $29 at Square Peg. The design of the E also comes in larger sizes called F and G. F you can order for £28.99 at Regulation.

The Different Stretch Sections of the I

I

If you want to gently stretch and train the dick’s sphincter, the I is the toy to go to. It starts out with an anal plug-like tip which tapers from a 6mm round tip to a max. stretch of 9mm over 19mm and then recedes to a 8mm long and 7mm thick shaft section. Then the plug widens again to 9mm stretch in the middle of a 12mm long facetted section until flowing into another 25mm of shaft. Just like training your anus, gently fucking your meatus with this plug, stretching the hole open, allowing to close and opening uo again will allow the sphincter to relax more easily over time. Because the toy is so long making it hard to control and the maximum stretch comes after a relatively short way, this toy is for the more experienced player.

The ToolBit I costs $39 at Square Peg or £28.99 at Regulation. If the stretch is too small for you, you can also get it in the larger J version.

B

Detail of the B’s Blunt Head

The B is for the real experienced stretch-sensation seeker. It starts out with an 8mm tall and 7mm diameter hemisphere which makes for a real dull entry. Since the 8mm are usually not long enough to push through sphincter completely, the following stretch to 11m over just 5mm is intense. Then there is a 2mm wide and 2/3mm deep grove until it tapers from 11mm to the 8mm shaft diameter in just 5mm. Over 14mm the shaft keeps the thickness but then there is a jump to 9mm without any taper. This section is 16mm and ends at the base. Through the overall bluntness of the toy design, it is only for experience sounders who can take at least 9mm steel diameter easily.

The ToolBit B costs $39 at Square Peg or £28.99 at Regulation. The desing of the B comes in four different sizes from A to D.

The Packaging of the ToolBits

Putty

If you haven’t found the design you are looking for on here, you can always make your own sounds using the Square Peg Putty which I have reviewed here. Either use the supersoft version in bronze or graphite or if you prefer a bit stiffer sounds, the dedicates Make Sounds! kit is packed with firm black platinum silicone. It costs $18.95 at Square Peg or £19.99 at Regulation.

Conclusion: Unique and intensely stimulating silicone sounds.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Unique design with intense stimulations Hard to control through softness Square Peg B – I $29 – $39
Square Peg Putty $18.95
Soft and squishy Hardly for novice Regulation B £28.99
Low injury risk Regulation F £28.99
Regulation I £28.99
High quality, easy to clean and sterilize material Regulation Putty £19.99

Oxballs Ballstretcher

Oxballs Ballstretcher from Left to Right: Bullballs, Squeeze and Balls-T

Vendor: Oxballs (USA) & Regulation (EU)

This review is a reader request: It has been a long time since I have reviewed my last Oxballs ballstretcher and some of the toys I reviewed yesteryear have been out of stock for a long time. In the time since my last reviews, I also learned a bit through reader comments. Ballstretchers – as balls – are such an individual thing so it is hard to make a general assumption which model is comfortable, easy to put on or can be used for long-term wearing. But still, I have been getting a steady stream of DMs on Twitter when I will be reviewing the new ballstretchers I wrap around my nuts in my tweets. So keeping in mind what I have learned about reviewing ballstretchers, here are my thoughts on the trio I bought over the last couple of months.

How to Store Silicone, Rubber and TPR Toys properly

General information

As different as the three designs are, they have some things in common. The all have their names written on the body. While this takes a bit away from the clean look, I actually find it a nifty feature when playing with a new dom and having to communicate in bondage which ballstretcher works best on your balls. For cleaning after play, simply soak them in hot dish soap water, rinse them off, sanitize, let them dry and store them away. All ballstretcher should be stores separately like in a shape sorter to keep them from touching. Otherwise the different plasticizers can damage the toys.

Putting ballstretchers on can be a bit annoying because in order to create a noticeable stretch effect, they have to sit tight. To keep the balls from slipping into the body during this struggle, I recommend putting a cockring on first. I you do not want to wear a cockring the entire time, use an Oxballs Ultraballs. They are stretchy enough to be pulled over the junk again once the ballstretcher fits.

Detail of the Notch between the Middle Section and the Top & Bottom of the Bullballs

Bullballs

The Bullballs is an iconic toy by Oxballs. It is actually the first ballstretcher the company ever made back in 2008 or 2009 (there are conflicting pieces of information out there when Oxballs moved from only making anal toys to adding cock and ball toys). When I discovered my love for separate ballstretchers (before the, I preferred slings), the old model was already discontinued. So when they reintroduced it in late 2018, I immediately went out and bought one.

It is a toy for people with low-hangers, coming in two versions: The Bullballs-1 with a height of 50mm and internal diameter of 25mm and the Bullballs-2 with 55mm height and 35mm internal diameter which I have bought. At first the stretch was a bit too much but I could not fit my meaty balls through the 25mm internal diameter. So I recommend to try out which one could work for you before purchasing one!

Detail of the Bullballs‘ Dodecagonal Top and Bottom

The design is quite genius: While the inside is a round tube, the top and the bottom feature dodecagonal facets for added stability. The middle section is a bit narrower and round. This section will compress when the stretcher is a bit too tight first but is strong enough to stretch your balls over time for a comfortable fit. Also, the ring is a good gripping point for CBT though since the notch is not too deep, it can be problematic to get a good grip with lubey fingers. Being made out of platinum silicone, the Bullballs are stretchy and have a smooth surface so skin and most of the time hair does not get caught making it a comfortable toy to wear. While Oxballs says, it is safe with all kinds of lube, I recommend only water- and oil-based lubes because the silicone oil in silicone or hybrid lubes can damage the material over time.

Finally, a word on the look of my Bullballs. The surface is far from perfect with little dents, nicks and even surface tears. I am not used to this kind of imperfection from Oxballs! But when I purchased mine from Gear Berlin in January, all 10 toys on display were this way so I assume it was a problem with the raw material. Knowing the material properties of platinum silicone, despite the far from perfect look, the “weakspots” will still stretch without tearing and they will not catch skin.

The Bullballs-1 come in black, blue, metallic, red, yellow and cost $25 while the Bullballs-2 is only available in black, blue and red, each for $29.

Detail of the Squeeze’s Bulge for Added Stability

Squeeze

I call the Squeeze my “Training stretcher”. Because when a new sub come to me and he does not have REALLY tight or meaty balls, this is my stretcher to go to. With a height of 45mm and internal diameter of 28mm, it does not really sound like a beginner’s toy. But it is all in the clever design: First, there it is made out of FLEX-TPR which is even softer and stretchier then platinum silicone. Second, there is the hour-glass shape with thick bulges on the top and the bottom and a thin neck in the middle which compresses even more then the middle section of the Bullballs. Finally, there is a small ridge on the inside, just below the opening for added stability. I had subs where the middle section was compressed almost completely. But despite the FLEX-TPR being so soft, is will slowly extend and train sub’s balls. The feeling of it, is like a top softly tugging the balls. And with the prominent notch in the middle, it makes the balls easy to grab if he desires to.

As the name says, FLEX-TPR is uberstretchy but the surface is a bit more sticky. So it can tug a bit on hair and skin. To ensure longevity of the toy, only use it with water-based lube because other will over time disintegrate the toy. Out of the three stretchers reviewed here, the Squeeze is the only one not made in the USA but in China from Oxballs’ sub-brand Atomic Jock.

You can choose between black, clear, metallic and red for the Squeeze. It costs $18 at Oxballs and £14.99 at Regulation.

The Blunt No-Frills Desing of the Balls-T

Balls-T

Just like the Bullballs, the Balls ballstretcher come in two sizes: The Balls-T is 30mm high and an internal diameter of 30mm, while the Balls-XL has 40mm height and an internal diameter of 35mm. The Balls-T is a no frills, middle of the road flexible ballstretcher – and that’s why I went for it. The size fits most people comfortable, even over longer periods of time. If in need, it can also be worn as a tight cockring. Being made out of platinum silicone, it has all the advantages already described above. I either use it in situations where I cannot change the ballstretcher and the intense stretch of a Bullballs might be too much (longer bondage scenes or attending a Fuck Mare Market [aka “Hore Fair” if you prefer the common, yet way more softcore English translation] for example or to stack it onto others for an added stretch. Since there is not much to get wrong with this model, I recommend it to all people who do not have extremely small, tight, beefy or low-hanging balls as their first stretcher. If it is too loose, simply stack some simple rings onto it until you are ready for something larger like the Bullballs.

With being available in black, blue, red, neon yellow, neon orange and neon green the Balls-T is actually the most colorful of the selection. It retails for $22 at Oxballs and £17.99 at Regulation. The Balls-XL comes in black, blue and red and costs $28.50 at Oxballs.

Bad Dragon Wereables

Bad Dragon Wereable Magnus & Flint

Vendor: Bad Dragon

For many perverts transformation into an anthropomorphic being is a major kink. Part of coming close to their being of choice or calling is putting on gear which in a sexual content should include the dick. For that reason I have been asked a lot of times for an educated opinion on the Bad Dragon Wereables. So I got my hand on their Flint and Magnus to tell you all about it.

Construction

The construction of the two models I have tested extensively follows the design of most cock sheaths: The main body is a long sheath for covering the dick’s shaft onto which at the end a loop is molded to put around the balls for keeping the sheath in place(more on that later). The inside of the sheath is textured to massage the top’s dick while fucking, on Flint with thicker grooves while Magnus has finer ones. Unlike other cock sheaths the wall thickness is not even around the dick. Since the outside texture follows the design of some of the most iconic Bad Dragon dildos, it is sometimes thicker like on the deep ridges on Flint’s bottom or Magnus’ knot. The wereables are made out of soft silicone. So even Flint’s ridges or Magnus’ prominent veins will certainly add tantalizing sensations but will not be a difficult struggle. Due to the stretchiness, putting the sheath on is also easy, because it stretches well, even over girthier dicks. While the sheaths are made out of the same silicone as their other toys, the color choice is limited to solid colors.

Detail of the Veins on Magnus‘ Sheath

Depending in the model the wereables are one size only or come up to three sizes. I recommend getting a size with a slightly smaller internal diameter than the diameter of your dick’s shaft for a snug fit. If you choose one of the wereables with a closed tip, make sure not to buy a too short one! I had a chance to fuck with a medium David which was too short and it was an unpleasant and unpractical experience.

Flint put on a Dildo

Playing with the Wereables

Most of my testees – both top and bottom – enjoyed playing with the wereables. The extravagant colors and sophisticated textures add an enticing visual to the play and new sensations to fucking. It takes a few rounds to figure out which texture works best in which position. Flint was more appreciated in doggy style because the ridges massage the prostate while Magnus won favors in sledgehammer fucking with the bottom on the back resp. in the sling because it really gave the knot a pop feeling. Some of my testees used the wereables without a bottom and enjoyed the sheath as small and handy travel masturbators. Especially the deeper grooves of Flint are great for that and the soft material lets you control the pressure easily.

To put the wereable on, lube up the dick, pull them over the shaft and put the scrotal loop around the balls. I recommend lubing up the sheath afterwards after it has been put in place. Otherwise adjusting the fit becomes difficult.

Detail of the Grooves inside Magnus‘ Sheath

As good as the soft silicone feels and allows the movement of the bottom’s sphincter to be felt by the top, it is also the drop of bitter with this toy. The loop around the balls is too soft and stretches too much. On a well lubed up shaft it moves a fair bit. On the one hand, this is good, because the groves inside the sheath massage the top’s dick. On the other hand especially when the bottom’s hole is just open enough to let the toy covered dick in, it stays inside, sliding along the dick, until the pull gets too much and pops out. With guys who don’t have low-hangers, Flint’s wide loop came off during heavy pounding. Also, Flint’s tip is so thin, it sometimes folds down when entering a hole. So I would recommend the wereables for loose holes and not to for something to start out the fucking with.

Of course, the wereables are not only made for dicks! They are a good way to spice up dildos which have become uninteresting. Naturally, for a securish fit, dildos with balls are better than just shafts. If the dildo has nothing to put the scrotal loop around, the sheath must be hold in place by hand otherwise it might disappear inside the bottom’s ass.

Detail of Flint’s Scrotum Loop with the Bad Dragon Logo Stamped on the Right Side

Being made out of platinum silicone, cleaning is easy: They can be autoclaved, put into hot water with dish soap or vinegar cleaner, rinsed off, dried and sanitized. But since they are silicone toys, it means they should not be used with silicone lube. Since they are so textured, I recommend a slicker lube like Elbow Grease H2O Thick Gel which stays in place.

Where to buy?

Like all Bad Dragon toys, they are exclusively sold and made to order at the Bad Dragon website. Depending on the size they cost between $60 and $80 with no surcharge for a different color.

Asylum Muzzle

The Mr S Asylum Muzzle

Vendor: Mr S Leather

Construction

The main part of this muzzle is a 280x85mm sized piece of leather which has been thermally molded to hug the back of the head. In the center of it a 265mm long zipper embedded in another leather piece runs from the bottom. Both the zipper itself and the surrounding leather piece are framed with a piping to give the leather piece some structure while maintaining its flexibility and softness.

Detail of the Leather Piece which goes onto the Back of the Head

On both ends the leather base strap flows into two small straps on each side. Through rivets small flaps are formed which house normal buckles. The rivets also hold small leather patches in place which prevent hair getting caught in the buckles. Onto the upper buckles and anatomically shapes blindfold can be attached. The lower ones are for a mouth shield. Both pieces feature long straps so the Asylum Muzzle can accommodate almost every size of head from small to really large. Depending on the head shape and size the straps either run above or over the ears but since they are made out of soft leather, they are not distracting.

Front View of the Mr S Asylum Muzzle

All leather pieces and straps are made out of a double layer of soft garment leather. Except the lip which protects the hair from the zipper that is only a single layer with for unknown reasons the soft side faces the zipper and not the hair. Also, the little patches under the buckles are a single layer of a different type of leather that on some of my eight ones feel a bit “cardboardy”; I would have wished for a double layer of the same soft garment leather. But this is just the gear perfectionist inside me speaking. Especially the bottom does not feel the difference and the leather is soft enough to wrap around the head easily.

Playing with Asylum Muzzle

The bad news first: If you are not playing with only one person who has the muzzle adjusted to his size, putting it on is a bit of a pain in the ass. First, attach the blindfold in a medium setting. Then place the main body on the back of the head, wrap the blindfold around the head and place it in the ideal position over the eyes. Then fetter the loose straps n a setting that keeps that position and adjust the already fettered straps on the other side in the same setting. Finally, put the face shield over the nose and attach the straps so that it stays centered. Of course, you can do it the other way round but to block out the most light, it is better to put the mouth shield over the blindfold. Naturally, if the attachments are already adjusted correctly, simply open the zipper and put it on like you would with every other hood.

The Mouth Shield

Now that everything is nice and tight in place, let the fun begin. As complicated and annoying as the putting on process sounds, once the top got used to the design and figured out how to do it swiftly, putting on the different covers, adjusting the strap has the same sensual quality as adjusting my beloved Bishop Head Harness. The Asylum Muzzle is made out of the same soft material so like the head harness it needs no breaking in period but just envelopes the sub’s head as softly and tightly as you desire.

Detail of a Buckle

Unlike with the Bishop Head Harness, the covers are not attached using snap fasteners but are right on the skin. This makes the blindfold more effective and depending on the head shape comes close to the shielding of an Ultra Blindfold. The mouth shield almost feels like a leather glove covering the mouth and the nose, creating the immersion of good glove over mouth play. When breathing in, the soft leather is sucked towards the mouth and nose and restricting breathing just a little bit – similar to the Leather Bag Hood. Not enough to make you suffocate but just enough to remind you that you are confined.

Detail of the Rough Leather of the Zipper and Buckle Cover

Mr S offered the same two cover design in a full coverage hood, obviously called the Asylum Hood. The design is older and through padded eye covers and lacing in the back more extreme than the Asylum Muzzle. I had a chance to try out both and for several reasons chose the muzzle over the hood. First, I am a bit of a claustrophobe so I am more comfortable with the “limited” leather coverage compared to a full hood. The second reason follows out of the first one: The less coverage leaves the ears, part of the forehead, the front of the neck and the top of the head still accessible for reassuring pats and caressing, ear nibbling, choking and whispering. Third, especially at summer events like Folsom or when wearing other heavy gear like straitjackets, overheating can be a problem, especially at the head. The airiness of the Asylum Muzzle helps to prevent that to a certain degree.

Detail of the Zipper

If you look what I have written above, the Asylum Muzzle is a bit like a best of off my favorite Mr S head gear. And it truly is. Yes, it has some drawbacks like no d-rings to attach it to bondage points or restraints to it. But since the leather is so soft, you can easily put a collar around the neck after putting the muzzle on. Or even put another muzzle or head harness over it. If you are not using both covers and the sub is an active one, flinging around his head, the buckles flap around which can be annoying. But I still love the sensual qualities, the perfect equilibrium of isolation and confinement and accessibilities so much that I gladly overlook the weak points of an otherwise unique and great piece of bondage gear.

Conclusion: Sensual, versatile and effective piece of head gear with small flaws.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Effective cover of eve and mouth Difficult to put on to new subs Mr S Leather $309.95
Even with all covers attached, leaves parts of the head accessible for play No roller buckles
Sometimes rough leather side is placed inconveniently

When not using all covers, unused buckles are inconvenient

Sensual experience putting it on
Glove over mouth effect
Collars and other pieces of head gear can be worn over it

 

Lederbondage Leather Sleepsack

Vendor: Lederbondage.com

Let’s start this review with a bit of German leather history: About 1 ½ decades ago, there was a kinky leather craftsman working for VW in Wolfsburg. By day he clad car interiors in leather, by night he crafted some exceptional pieces of bondage gear – including as far as I know ten sleepsacks which are called “VW sleepsacks” by their owners. I could not find out for what reason but this guy stopped making gear over a decade ago.

The Lederbondage.com Leather Sleepsack

Fast forward to the nowish time. One of my closest friends happens to own one of those sleepsacks. He knew I wanted one for my playroom so he got in touch with my other friends and they pooled for the birthday gift. He got in touch with a local leather tailor, sent his sleepsack as a sample, got my measurements and asked what features my ideal sleepsack should have and now after 2 ¼ years and many messages, I am reviewing one of the signature pieces of bondage gear in my playroom.

Detail of the Collar with the V-neck opening and Locking Roller Buckle

Construction

The cocoon-like body of the sleepsack is made out of 1.4mm thick medium-grain cow hide which is really soft. The entire sleepsack is lined with this hide so you end up with an almost 3mm thick layer of leather. But since the leather is so soft, is does not feel stiff but just hugs the sub’s body.

What now follows is all individually bespoke and can be crafted to your desires and needs. I went for a traditional neck to foot zipper. It is the easiest way to get into a sleepsack and especially in long-term scenarios more comfortable than to lay on a back zipper. I chose five runner for my zipper to create different opening for the crotch for example. To be honest, in all the play I had with the sleepsack, I only needed three runner (one to close, two to open up the crotch), because I ordered my sleepsack with tit flaps for easy nipple access. They measure 13x13cm on the outside with giving access to an area of 10x10cm and are attached using Velcro. The inside is smooth leather but I am sure you can also get it with spikes and pins for continuous stimulation.

Detail of the D-rings of Rope Tightening

I chose several means to increase the bondage and leather encapsulation sensation. First, there is the collar. It is attached to the sleepsack with a wide v-neck in the front so it ends with my jaw line without being uncomfortable around the neck. Through this design there is no gap between a hood and the sleepsack and if I want to wear a muzzle or a hood with an attached collar, it still fits because the zipper ends below the neck. Around the collar there is a belt with a locking roller buckle and D-rings for the psychological effect of being locked inside the sleepsack. It is a purely psychological effect because once your arms are inside the arm pockets which I commissioned and the zippers are closed, any person with my rough body shape is not able to escape the sleepsack.

Detail of the Belt’s Roller Buckle

On each side of the sleepsack, there are 8 welded 7mm wire strength stainless steel D-rings riveted with leather flaps using six rivets. Through these thick bridle leather belts with double thorn roller buckles can be threaded to increase the bondage tightness or adjust the fit if you are slimmer than me. In addition to them, there are 8 smaller D-rings with “just” one rivets attached each side of the zipper. They are for threading rope through them for an ever tighter bondage and adding a different color to the all black sleepsack. On each shoulder and on the feet pocket there is another big D-ring. While they can be used to tied the sleepsack to the bed, I added them to be suspended inside the sleepsack either hanging on the shoulders or in a hammock like setup.

In order to unleash the true long-term potential of the sleepsack, I commissioned a cushion to put between the legs. This way there is not friction on the ankles and knees which would limit the time inside the sleepsack. The firmness of foam is soft enough to be comfortable jet firm enough to keep the joints from pressing against each other. The seam is one big piping so it is completely smooth.

Detail of the Padded Leg Devider

Another advantage of having your sleepsack made by a leather tailor is that each sleepsack is made to measure. He does not simply purchase a sleepsack body and adds straps and D-rings as the customers asks, but builds everything from scratch. Through this, he knows his product inside out and if necessary can do alterations. Last year, I worked out my thighs a bit too much and gained so much muscle mass that I could not close the zipper around the legs anymore. I just send it in and he added two pieces of leather just around my thighs so the sleepsack maintained his overall fit. While the sleepsack feels solid and is made for scenes and generations to come, if you are nitpicky, you will little aesthetic flaws like not all rivets being set in exactly the same way, some belt holes might be a bit off. After all, he is not Mr S who make dozens of sleepsacks every year, but these little points does not affect the functionality. I gladly oversee these little flaws for having a leather sleepsack which is exactly how I want it to be. Also, he has made several of them since he made mine so I guess he gathered some experience making them by now.

Detail of the D-rings around the Sleepsack

Naturally, all that leather and metal comes at a weight. In my case, almost 10kg. Even when packed tightly, it is almost a quarter cubic meter. I have taken this sleepsack to events in Berlin but it is not the most handy piece of bondage gear to travel with, especially when you do not travel by car.

As I written, this sleepsack was tailored to my demands and expectations. The original VW sleepsacks did not have D-rings on the sleesack but on the belts which were equipped with locking posts. So before ordering one, my recommendation is to try out some different sleepsacks (if possible) to figure out how your sleepsack needs to look like!

Playing with Leather Sleepsack

If you are a regular reader, you will most likely notice that a few weeks ago, I reviewed a rubber sleepsack. The big question is: Why another, way more expensive one?

Detail of the Tit Flaps

First, there is a fetish aspect. Some people like leather, other like rubber. I like both.

So the major point is that inside a leather sleepsack the feeling of bondage is more intense. While rubber will stretch, leather does not give in. You are confined to the shell of a thick, heavy leather cocoon. Leather is the most common material in bondage because it is strong. You can fight, you can struggle, you can stretch, you can grab and (try to) tear. The leather will not give in. This also impact the tightening process. With the rubber sleepsack I have to be careful when threading the rope through the D-rings and tightening it. On this one, I can tug and pull to really get it tight without having to worry to rip the rivet out of the material.

Detail of the Shoulder D-rings for Suspension Bondage

Because of these properties, the leather sleepsack is for heavier play or subs who like to struggle. With the D-rings around the sleepsack, it can easily be tied down so there is no wiggle room left for the sub. This comes in handy when inducing intense amounts of agony like through electro, CBT or milking. The tit flaps are large enough to expose the nipples to wax. And while wax does not destroy leather, it tarnishes the surface so some level of care is necessary.

For floaty bondage, it depends on your style. As soft as the leather is, it still maintains some level of stiffness. The thickness isolates the bottom from his surroundings. Because of that, the belts around the sleepsack are so wide that when tightening them the sub really feels the force and strength of the top. Add to that the weight of the leather and the feeling of being bound and helpless is more intense than in a rubber sleepsack.

Detail of the Arm Pockets

In a normal playroom setting leather also offers a bit more comfort than rubber. Since the leather is so thick it regulates the temperature quite well as long as the room temperature is at a normal level and the sleepsack does not lay in the open sun. Being a natural material, it also absorbs some level of sweat. This is also the downside of leather. Unlike rubber it is very difficult to clean – especially a large piece of gear as a sleepsack. So if the scene should be long-term, I recommend putting a diaper on the sub. Because leather is so comfortable and the sweating is not really noticed unlike in rubber, hydration and overheating can become a problem. So check in with the sub regularly and maybe open a little gap in the zipper to check his body.

Conclusion: Very well made leather sleepsack with loads of extras and a few beauty flaws.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Made to measure with extras tailored to the sub’s requirements Little imperfections in the manufacturing execution tarnish overall outstanding quality Lederbondage.com Around 1.500€ depending on the extras and shipping
Lavish amount of D-rings for intense
Ordering process more difficult and longer compared to off the rack sleepsack
bondage Suspension capability
Top notch leather and metal trim quality
Exceptional value for money

 

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