Anal Fist Training 101

tl;dr

Gentle fucking your anus with either the SquarePeg Egg or the Topped Toy Gape Keeper with increasing larger sizes over time will make your hole fistable. Once you more or less easily take a Gape Kepper 93 or XXL Egg you should be able to take a medium size fist.

Ever since I started reviewing non-stim anal toys some 5 years ago, one of the most frequently asked set of question I have gotten is: How do I train my hole to take a fist? Which toys are best for the task? (For finding the perfect anal toy in general look here) Since review-wise I am still in hibernation it is the perfect time to write a comprehensive guide what toys and steps to take to get from a virgin or just dicked ass to a fist-greedy hole.

The Topped Toys Gape Kepper & SquarePeg Egg, my recommended Plugs for Training

Physiology and Psychology of Getting Ready to take a Fist

First, let’s talk about the bodily aspects of fisting. The anus is a ring sphincter, a muscle. In order to make it smooth and willing open up, you need to carefully stretch it on a regular basis. For this I recommend a tandem of two plugs: One the goes in relatively easily to initially open up your hole and make it smooth. The best way to achieve this and accustom your hole to the stretch sensation of a fist, I recommend a gentle fucking with the plugs. Once the hole is opened up then other one should be used to stretch your sphincter. This again is a pushing/ fucking movement against the sphincter until it becomes uncomfortable. Keep the pressure at that point for a short while, then release and push again. Which level of discomfort is acceptable and needed for a good training is highly individual. Approach it carefully, explore what feels right and keep in mind what I write about pain below!

When the larger plug almost goes in initially as easily as the smaller one and you can fuck yourself with it, it is time to make the larger one your start plug and buy a bigger one for stretching. The size difference between the two plugs should be about 10mm to max. 15mm in diameter for two reasons:

  1. If the plug becomes too large, the overall shape gets too “dull” and it just bluntly presses against the sphincter which will not entice it to open up (more in the perfect shape below).
  2. You need a sense of achievement once in a while. Dully pushing a toy against your hole without any noticeable progress gets boring over time and demotivates. But when after two or three weeks of training you finally conquer a toy, you feel accomplishment. Adding to that the awesome feeling when the light pain of stretching turns into pure anal pleasure, there is strong positive conditioning going on. This is the psychological element of hole training!

One Disadvantage of Silicone: It attracts Dust like Nothing Else

The stretching can cause a little dragging pain but must not be intense or pinching or sharp! That is the reason why I recommend hole training on your own because you can best control the degree pf force and angle in which the toy should enter. Furthermore, especially in the beginning your hole will be tender quickly. So a potential play partner will be disappointed. Training does also not need to take long! 10 to 15 minutes every two or three days is enough to make progress. Actually, regular stretching is way better than one hour-long session once every blue moon. And with stretching I mean the gentle fucking movement describe above. There is little training effect in long-term wearing of plugs. It is actually counterproductive. If you wear a plug for extended periods of time, your sphincter will contract again and the mucosa inside the rectum will absorb the lube. Pulling the plug out then, especially when you are untrained can be very painful and cause injuries! The anus can take quite the beating when being relaxed! But if not, it is a very delicate body area.

That is why I like to compare fist training to starting Yoga. When you start out, you might be disappointed how clumsy and stiff you are. But when you keep going, push yourself a little bit and within reason on a regular basis at some point you will be able to touch your toes. And the same way, if you keep to the training regime you ultimately will be able to take a fist.

The SquarePeg Longneck & Mr Hankey Toys El Rey

It is hard to pin down an exact plug diameter when you will be able to take a fist. Small fists could have a very sturdy bone structure while large ones could collapse easily making them easy to take than a smaller one. Also, a human hand will never be as soft and smooth as the squishy silicone currently popular. So the softer the silicone, the larger the plug has to be. But a good rule of thumb is that somewhere around 75mm diameter you should be able a medium glove size hand.

It is important to keep in mind that like in training there is a psychological factor in getting fisting: Allowing another person push his or her fist through your sphincter takes a lot of trust and relaxation. It is not uncommon that the first fist is a strong mindfuck and needs to be taken out right away and the session is then over. Do not consider this a failure! Keep in mind that you can now take a fist and go back to this trail of though with confidence before your next scene. Do not stress out if it does not work out the second or third time right away or at all. Being able to take a fist a not a Boolean event but a wonderful journey you have just reached an important step but which is not nearly over! And there are wonderful things and experiences to explore along the way.

The Bad Dragon Vergil, a Fantasy Dildo good for Anus Stretchig

Choosing the right Toy

Plugs, Dildos & Fantasy Toys

A hand in initial fisting position (pressing all stretched out fingers together) has roughly a cone shape. The diameter gradually increases until the thumb knuckle and then tapers again until the wrist. This double cone-shape which causes a stretch both going in and going out is best recreated in plugs.

I often get asked “Can I also use dildos to train?” Of course you can but the training effect will not be as big. The stretch and training effect basically only occurs when the dildo enters the anus. A dildo is good for getting the anus used to being stretched to a certain diameter (and the friction of the fucking stimulating the many nerve endings inside the anus makes the training enjoyable) but helps little in the quest of taking a fist. There are some dildos which through the shape can help train like the SquarePeg Longneck or Mr Hankey El Rey. Dildos which taper towards the bottom and thus increase the stretch are not really useful because often before you get to a useful stretch you run into depth problems. This means that you need to penetrate the very sensible second sphincter where the colon enters the rectum. This is a challenge especially for deep fisting and definitely a story for another day.

Bad Dragon’s Egg

Many people get into anal stretching because they like the looks or the mind play (I am looking at your Furries! ;)) associated with fantasy toys like from Bad Dragon, Neotori or KnotMe which are often on the larger side of the size spectrum. One of the distinctive features are they elaborate shapes and textures. Sadly, the more texture and the complexer the shape, the harder they are to take. So they are not good training toys. Of course there are exceptions like the Bad Dragon Vergil or their Egg. It is the closest you get to a pure training plug if you are a purely Bad Dragon afficionado but the base shape makes it hard to grip and almost imossible for longterm wear (If you want to learn more about finding the perfect anal toy and how to store and care for it, take a look at my Anal Toys 101).

Top View of the Gape Keeper and Egg to Compare the Steepness

Choosing the right Plug

As already written the training plugs should have a smooth and flowing conical shape both before and behind the equator so they easily go in and out. They should be made out of platinum silicone because its surface is super smooth and easy to clean. Finally, they should have an ergonomic base as a good handle when fucking and naturally come in a large number of sizes. These criteria meet two toys: The SquarePeg Egg and the Topped Toys Gape Keeper. They both have a long-drawn egg shape which makes them perfect for training. Which one you should choose highly depends on your personal preference. At Shore 00-34 Topped Toys uses slightly softer silicone which follows the current trend towards soft toys. With SquarePeg you have the choice of two firmness grades: SuperSoft (in their signature Bronze orange or a middle grey called Graphite) or Firm (only in black). Personally, I prefer firm toys for training because the firm toys “force” the sphincter open a bit more easily (again, choose the force you are comfortable with and do not overdo it!) and the firmness is closer a human hand. The SquarePeg Egg is also steeper and thus goes in a bit more easily. The Topped Toys Gape Keeper is a little bit duller and barrel shaped so it comes a bit closer to simulating the challenge of the thumb knuckle. The SquarePeg base is a bit easier to grab but especially at sizes larger than XL a bit cumbersome. Both models come in a wide variety of sizes so you can find the perfect pairing of fucking+stretching plug. If you can, go to a store, touch and look at the toys to find which fit you best. Of course, my reviews of the SP Egg and TT Gape Keeper are also an excellent point to start 😉

Overview of the Three Different Colors and thus Firmness Degress of SquarePeg Toys

These toys are not inexpensive and I am aware that buying increasingly larger toys is an expensive route to take compared to cheap PVC toys but especially when you leave the realm of mass-commercial sizes (about 60mm diameter) there are not many well-shaped toys to continue your journey towards a fist (And do not get me started on heavy metals and plasticizers in PVC being absorbed by the mucosa in your rectum). Fisting is such a great experience so your hole should be worth it for you! Furthermore, these toy retain a somewhat good second hand value. Or you take my route and hand down some toys to eager bottoms starting the same journey I have been on and keep some if you want to train fistee in the making or need to open up a tense hole.

The SquarePeg Acron with Focus of its Bulge

Then approaching the 70mm mark, there is another toy I recommend for training: The SquarePeg Acorn. Its duller tip is a bit closer to the ergonomics of a hand in fisting position than the perfectly smooth taper of the Gape Keeper and Egg. The duller transition between the body and the neck is also closer to the transition between thumb knuckle and wrist. Around the rim runs a bulge designed to stimulate the prostate and anus which frankly is a challenge and makes taking the plug harder when you are not experience. But holy fuck! When you take it and are experienced enough to relax becomes that little bump a horny feature!

The Topped Toys Grip 106

I sometimes get the questions if the Topped Toys Grip or more recently the Deep Space are good for training. To be frank, I have not yet played with them but looking at their shape and taking into account my experience with other toys, I would say no for the training aspect. The Grip starts out at a size range where you are almost in fist territory and its slopes are too steep (there is actually a sweetspot between steep- and dullness which is too complicated to explain here). On the Grip 96 and even the Grip 106 it looks a bit better. They could maybe work for training, I actually need to try them myself. But also these two have the very prominent edge around the equator which makes the pop going in intense and the pushing out challenging. This makes the toy interesting and horny for experienced holes but nothing for novices. If you like the shape though, buy them as inspirational toys. Because, you should always buy toys for the hole you want not the hole you have 😉

The Topped Toys Deep Space 70

The Deep Space as its name says is made for training stretch in the depth of the rectum and colon. Furthermore the tip is again shaped for more experienced holes which easily open up. So like the Grip, save the purchase for when you are fist-savvy or get it as playroom decoration to look at and aspire to when training yourself in the meantime.

Pharmacy

Douching

Ok, this is only in this section because you can buy clean-out accessories in the pharmacy. When training yourself, I would recommend not to overdo the douching because it irritates your anus and rectum, making it harder to open up. A thorough clean-out like before a good, heavy fucking should is enough. Yes, the fucking motion of the plugs can lead to some waste falling down. But this small thread it outweighed by the fact that you do not tired your hole out already in the bathroom.

When you get into serious fisting you will need to improve your clean-out routine. But still, you and your partner should always keep in mind where you put your hands. Accidents happen and are neither reason for drama nor for bottom shaming! Be adult about it, clean up, douche again, take a break and continue.  In my opinion, people who put down and shame bottoms for messy incident have not business of sticking their hands and dicks in rectums!

Two of my personally prefered Lubes for Anal Play

Lube

Lube is paramount! Too little lube can cause fissures and other accidents. There are some borderline cases (and with experienced players preferences) where there is too much lube. But especially when starting out with serious ass play, if you ask yourself “Should I add lube?” the answer is always “Yes!” When playing with silicone toys, you must not used silicone or hybrid lube because the silicone oil inside it will over time destroy your toys. The surface with become porous and sticky. I recommend water-based lube. There are countless brands available and actually two fister can talk for hours why which lube is the best. You just need to try. For the training the lube consumption will be relatively moderate. Since all powder lubes used for fisting go bad quickly, you should buy large and thus economic bottles of lube. My personal recommendations are Elbow Grease H2O Thick Gel or ID Glide because it stays in place on the toy but ever ass is different so give it a try.

Relaxants and Aftercare Ointments

There are many relaxation sprays and gels or even numbing ones out there. Stay away from them! The numbing effect will dull the pain you feel and thus an important indicator if you can still push on a bit or have to stop immediately! Injuries coming from being too forceful can keep you from ever enjoying any from of anal sex forever! So it is not worth it.

Heavy training can lead to mini fissures or stress-induced pain inside the sphincter. This is completely normal. For aftercare I recommend using baby diaper rash cream with panthenol and zinc oxide to help the small wounds to close and calendula and either chamomile or sage for a soothing effect. Even when you are a masochist, I recommend to wait with proceeding with the training until you have no pain in the anus anymore. Otherwise problems can escalate.

And finally a necessary word on semi legal and illegal substances. I will neither recommend nor demonize them because people will be using them anyway. Like relaxation or numbing gels they can greatly impair you ability to notice something is wrong. So especially when training, using anything more than poppers and THC which is relatively safe is very dangerous! If you decide to use substances educate yourself about the short and longterm effects and especially safe use. Never use them alone and try them with an experienced person you trust. Discuss your limits before hand and do not move/ let yourself be pushed further than you are comfortable with when you are sober.

I hope this article has helped you a bit to embark on the fun way to becoming a fistee! If you have any comments, Tweet or DM me or write an e-mail. Each feedback is appreciated.

Best for Self Play – Bondage

The Mr S Asylum Muzzle

I have long thought about if I should really write this piece. Self bondage is a delicate topic. The chances of something going wrong are higher than when you play with someone else – especially when you try to achieve the restriction level that kick most bondage subs. And if something goes wrong, there is no one to help you escape the predicament. I am well aware of devices like ice locks and the time locks that hit the market the past few years. But they are not failsafe and if you get a cramp or some other serious incident happens that requires your immediate attention, you are stuck in them until the time is off. So in this review I will focus on toys that will give you some sense of helplessness but are still easily enough to take off when necessary.

First some pieces of advice for when restricting your movement on your own:

  • I highly recommend sitting or laying down to keep your form accidently tripping and injuring yourself.
  • Get a virtual session sitter. Inform a friend what you are about to do and agree upon a time to check in with them once you are down. Set yourself an alarm clock which leaves you ample time to strip yourself out of the bondage on your own and call them back. If you do not call them in due time, they should inform the authorities about the potential predicament you are in.

The Fetters Chester Binder Restraints

The first I am going to recommend when playing on your own are the Fetters Leather Chest Binders Restraints. With the lockable chest bench has the important momentum of hearing and feeling the lock click, binding the restraints irremovable to your body once locked. For the sake of security and frankly practicality only wrap the cuffs around your biceps which will give you already restrict your arm movement properly. Also, you have something to look forward once the lockdown is over and your top will restrain your wrists to your chest making you even more helpless. Alternatively, take a look at the Fetters Heavy Leather Hogtie Set and just use the thigh restraints. They have the attached ankle restraints to bind these two body parts together, making it impossible for you to move your legs. Theoretically, both pieces of bondage gear could be combined on your own. However, the level of bondage is so intense that the time to take all restraints of in an emergency situation is too long so I strongly advise against combining the two together.

The Regulation Padded Posture Collar

However, there are two good toys matching these pieces of bondage gear. First is the Padded Posture Collar from Regulation. It forces you to keep your head facing straight forward. Since most of our head’s movements are intuitive, a sense of being severely limited will soon creep into your mind. Second is the Mr S Ultra Blindfold. It is the best, most effective and most comfortable blindfold on the planet. Period! It blocks out all the light with being barely noticeable, forcing your to look inside yourself and feel every little element of restriction and your predicament. I consider this specific toy essential to every toy collection because it is SO good. So even if you are not planning on playing with yourself, don’t have this blindfold and want to do some therapy shopping, buy this piece of gear!

The Mr S Locking Front Buckle Gag

For all the reasons above, head gear naturally is great for self bondage. However, I would not recommend combining head gear (except for the Bishop Head Harness) with bondage that restricts your arms like the Chester Binders. The chances of these pieces constricting your breather are very low but still there! So you might need to take them off more immediately than you can undo your arm and hand restraints.

The Mr S Bishop Head Harness with Eye and Mouth Cover Attached

The first piece of head gear is actually my favorite gag: The Mr S Front Buckle Gag. The lavish padding of the front feels like soft leather feels like a gloved hand covering your mouth, making all glove over mouth fetishist like me drool even more – as if the pecker inside your mouth would not be enough. You can this version with a locking buckle to intensify the feeling of being bound even more.

Mr s Leather Bad Hood

If you are a fan of feeling many straps around you or a piece of gear slowly encapsulating you more and more, the Mr S Bishop Head Harness is the head gear to go to. The lavishly used soft leather caresses your skin while the many straps are wrapped around your head. Once fettered you can add a blindfold or a gag for furthermore increase the bondage. To be honest, it takes a bit of practice to figure out in which order and how strong to tighten each strap. But once you have gotten the hang of it, it is an intense sensual experience (Big thanks to ReddyWhp who got me hooked on this experience almost exactly 7 years ago!). A similar experience regarding the soft leather wrapping around your face and straps being tightened gives you the Mr S Asylum Muzzle. Bonus feature: It has a zipper on the back so once adjusted you can put it on fairly easily and due to the lack of an attached collar, you can add the Posture Collar. The easiest to put on piece of head gear is the Mr S Leather Bag Hood. Simply pull it over the head, lightly tighten the leather cord around your neck and enjoy the isolation. The rich smell of soft, high quality leather is intoxicating. The two small nose holes should allow for enough air to flow to you if you breathe slowly and steadily.

As always: NEVER do breath play alone! Please be safe in all forms of self play and stick the two pieces of advice I gave at the beginning of the article.

This is the final piece of this series in which I have also talked about Anal Toys, E-Stim and CBT, Edging & Milking. I hope you enjoyed the articles and I would look forward to seeing you again some time around Easter when the regular review will start again. Until then: Stay healthy, stay kinky, stay isolated!

Best for Self Play – CBT, Edging & Milking

Oxballs Ballstretcher from Left to Right: Bullballs, Squeeze and Balls-T

In the last installment of this little series, I have already dipped a bit into the waters of CBT by looking at e-stim toys to torment your junk. Today will be all about manual toys to bring pain and pleasure to your genitals.

On numerous occasions I have talked about the effect of ball stretchers: Besides the obscene look and making your balls feel larger, they keep the testicles from being pulled towards your body when having an orgasm. This in combination with the bouncy motion during fucking or jerking makes your orgasms more intense. When starting out with ball stretching, I recommend the Oxballs ball stretcher made out of their various squishy materials. They take a bit of practice to put one, but if you make a mistake the effects are less painful than with a metal ball stretcher. Also, they cover a wider range of stretch which is important when you do not know your right size.

The MC Customs Ferrula

Ball stretchers are the perfect basis for ball slapping and busting. They provide a good grip and keep the balls from moving away. For ball busting, my toy of choice is the Oxballs Busting Paddle. It’s wide and heavy yet soft head delivers a strong and thuddy impact sensation on your balls. For more stingy sensation or slapping action, I prefer the MC Customs Ferrula paddle. Just be careful when you hit the balls with the Ferrula. Hitting the seminal ducts too often and hard can lead to permanent injuries.

Less painful but also requiring some care and attention when playing with them are vacuum cylinders from Thickwall Cylinder. Carefully pumping your dick, will make it puffy and more sensitive. So some people use pumping their dicks as foreplay for edging or milking. While pumping can help with erectile dysfunctions, the permanent increase in penis size has not yet been proving scientifically. Though, if you want to find out if your dick size will increase over the upcoming weeks of isolation, it will be an extremely enjoyable research process 😉

The Doxy Die Cast House in its Case

There are numerous different toy to make edging or milking your dick more pleasurable. The simple yet effective toys are the masturbators from Bad Dragon. They all have unique textures inside and are made out of supersoft silicone to accommodate even XL dicks. Unlike other masturbators the sleeve is not house in a case but you grip it directly. This way you can dose the pressure intensity just the way you need it. A step up the technology ladder is the Doxy Massager. Either use it on its own to tease the frenulum or add an attachment to pull over your glans, the strong vibrations will quickly get you off once, twice, thrice… What I often do is combining the Bad Dragon sleeve with the Doxy pressed against my perineum to get both my dick and my prostate stimulated. Finally, if you have tense muscles from the unusual workout at home, the Doxy is actually also a really good and strong massage tool! If you want the high end,  100% hands-free solution to your boiling balls, get yourself a Venus 2000. This milking machine will either keep you on the edge for hours or milk one consecutive orgasm out of your nuts after the other. It is a hefty investment, but it will bring you joy for years to come once this crazy situation is over.

In the next and final chapter of this little journey into Self Play I will take a look at Bondage Gear.

Best for Self Play – E-Stim

The ElectraStin AXIS in the Original Case

Yesterday, I have given you a short tour through the reviews for your anal needs. Today, I am going to look at E-Stim, probably the second most popular toy category for self play.

Let’s start with the basics: For E-Stim play you need a power box which creates the electric waves and electrodes which deliver it to your body. You always need a pair of electrodes since the currency flows from one pole to another. If you want to dive deeper into the intricacies and safety guidelines of E-Stim, take a look at my E-Stim 101.

As most of you are asked to stay at home, some of you are starting to get adventurous and curious about E-Stim play. So one of the most often asked questions is “Which box to start out with?” I recommend the E-Stim Systems Pebble. With two channels, it is already equipped to stimulate two body regions or two partners at once, yet easy to use and has some fun programs build into it.

The E-Stim Systems 2b remotely controlled by a Tablet over the Internet

For more elaborate play, there are two options I would recommend: On the one hand there is E-Stim Systems’ 2b which is their top of the line. Besides many, easy to manipulate and this versatile programs, they offer an easy to use and reliable online „Connect“ control feature to remotely controlled cam sessions. If you do not have a cam or online master buddy, on the other hand, there is the ElectraStim AXIS. Their new flagship model offers a bunch of innovative sensors like a motion or an proximity sensor. With a little creativity, you can create enough entropy to get the feeling someone else is in control of the box.

The E-Stim System Black Collection Bi-Polar Butt Plugs

Once you have found your preferred box, you need some electrodes. If you want to stick something up your butt (or pussy) and amongst other sensation want to feel like you are getting fucked by the e-stim, you have to get one of the many different E-Stim System insertable electrodes. Made out of aircraft grade aluminum, they are virtually indestructible. I almost have a dozen of those and they are worth every cent! Another essential tool are cock loops, like the ElectraStim Prestige ElectraLoops. They are easy and effective and depending on their position on your junk create different sensations. Just play around with them! In order not to short-circuit your power box, make sure that two loops on the same channel do not touch. I usually use one of my many simple Oxballs cockrings (I just realize, I need to review some of the more basic ones I have in my collection) for that. Speaking of Oxballs, I achieved my first hands free e-stim orgasm by placing their Zap on my glans, one electrode at the frenulum, the other on the top of the head. I think only Ballistic Metal sells those anymore. But you can easily construct a similar toy with one of the simple Oxballs cockrings and two of their Volt electrodes.

The Oxballs Shockball

When you want to step beyond the pleasure aspect of e-stim and really enter the realm of pain, Oxballs offers an intense tool to crush and fry your balls with the Shockballs e-stim ballcrusher – also I think only available at Ballistic Metal, the manufacturer, anymore. If you capitalize the C in CBT, take a look at the E-Stim Systems Vyper (XL) to set the nerve endings along your dick’s shaft on fire! If all of those tools don’t make you scream, your last resort is the E-Stim Systems Duo Pinwheel. Especially when playing alone, I recommend only using the Duo version of their electrified pinwheels because they are safe to use and the tiny contact area and mass make them a devious toy to play with.

The next part of this little series will be about CBT, edging and milking toys.

Best for Self Play – Anal Toys

The Mr Hankey Dragon and XXXCalibur

In the past few weeks I have been getting an increasing amount of questions and messages which toys are best for self play. So this little series of guides should help you navigate my many toy reviews and help you get safe, sane and sexually satisfied through these times. I try to update this little series so if you don’t follow me on Twitter, check tomorrow evening for the next installment.

Surprisingly, the most questions I have gotten followed along the line: “I can’t see my long distance relationship partner/ play mates/ fuck buddies anymore and I haven’t used my dildos in years. Any idea for a good dildo?”

Left SquarePeg Leo 2X, Right Mel 2X

If you are looking for a realistic dildo, one of my favorite toys of all of 2019 was the SquarePeg Mel because of the many different ridges around the shaft. However, they only make realistic dildos in their signature Supersoft silicone. And if you are a texture junkie like me who want to feel every vein, that might not be enough. For this, take a look at Mr Hankey’s Toys who make toys in soft and medium varieties and if that is not enough offer custom firmness. When it comes to realistic dildos, they are have a wide range from porn star dongs over John Doe dick to uncut underwear anacondas. Both companies are offering Vac-U-Lock holes for their dildos so you can attach them to fuck machines or other nifty accessories for self play.

Topped Toys Gape Keeper 100 & Chute 75

Apparently many of you are using their time at home to stretch and train their hole. Hands down the best toy for that is the SquarePeg Egg. It opens the hole smoothly both on the way in and on the way out. The Topped Toys Gape Keeper does the same job, however, they only offer their toys in soft silicone while SquarePeg also offers a firm version. Personally, I prefer firmer toys for stretching but maybe these times are the perfect opportunity to find out your preference. What both toys are great for are long-term wear.

The Organotoy Eggs from Small to XXL

For really LONG term wear and some fun when moving out and about, take a look at the OrganoToy Eggs. They are designed to be swallowed completely, giving you a nice sense of fullness and stimulate the sensitive nerve endings inside your rectum. If you want to wear them over extended periods of time, especially the smaller ones, please get a version with the pullout chain or rope to get them out securely even when they start to wonder up your colon. Another nifty feature of the pulling out is the prostate stimulation.

Vergil the Drippy Dragon as a Representation of Bad Dragon’s „Glans and a Knot“-Dildo Design ontop of an Anthropomorphic Base

This segways directly into the last category of this short overview: Prostate stimulation toys. I have to preferred prostate toy: First Bad Dragon’s Vergil the Drippy Dragon. The shape of head and body are PERFECTY for targeting my prostate and I have gotten countless anal and prostate orgasms from it. The other is the SquarePeg Acorn. The small, innocent looking ridge around the rim seems small but in the right hands and position will drive you nuts. And I am sure you now have enough time to find that perfect spot for you. And yes, of course there is the OrganoToys SAW for prostate milking. It is one of the most bizarre toys I have come across in my eight years of reviewing kinky sex toys. If you want something unusual and want to support a small, independent toy maker, give it a try.

Tomorrow I will take the look at E-Sim toys to pleasure yourself.

Shock Collars 101

Tl;dr

Shock collars are extremely dangerous, are in many countries forbidden to be used on animals and should not be used on humans! Use a remote controlled E-Stim box connected to the balls instead!

Yesterday someone on Twitter asked for opinions/ advice on shock collars and I was glad to answer his questions. Since there are not many resources on shock collars out there, I decided to condense what I wrote on Twitter into this little piece.

The main element of a shock collar is small box which houses a power generator and two stud-like electrodes. The “professional” models designed for dogs are attached to the body using a nylon strap. There are also fetish models out there which feature a rubber or leather collar or are integrated into a metal collar. The shocks are controlled by a wireless transmitter. Depending on the model it can have a range of up to kilometer in an open area. Others are compatible with beacons which trigger the shocks once a line is crossed like an invisible fence.

Once the trigger is pressed, it works like an e-stim power box with build-in electrodes. However, unlike erotic e-stim devices, the shock is not pulsed but continuous and no program is modulated onto pulse. Since all professional models are designed to penetrate a dog’s thick fur and skin, they must not be used on humans! The necessary high intensity applied on bare skin can lead to burns, spasms and especially on the neck permanent nerve damage. If the electrodes face the bottom of the balls, they can even cause permanent infertility.

I am aware that a lot of people will now say that they have been using shock collars for years without any problems. A common argument in the discussion is that you can use low levels which are not dangerous. In my book, shock collars are like solo breath play: It can go well a thousand times, until this one, fatal time. Furthermore, most of the time nerve damage does not occur instantaneous but develops over time. While lower levels are less dangerous, I do not think they are a valid argument. As usage of the shock collar progresses, the sub will get desensitized and used to the intensity, leading to an escalation. This can be facilitated by endorphins (on both sides when the top is getting greedy) during play and the power dynamic between the play partners leading to pushing each others’ limits. And this does not take into consideration that some boxes don’t offer different channels for the trigger so strangers can (un)intentionally shock the sub without the top’s control. Another grave danger is the fact that there are a shockingly large number of shock collars available which put out DC, especially from Asian manufacturers (If you don’t know why DC is potentially lethal, read my E-Stim 101)!

If you still want to use a shock collar, you should also consider the legal implications. In some countries, shock collars are more or less illegal. In Germany they are considered a weapon. Owing them requires a license and they must be transported in a specific manner. In Austria selling, buying, owning and using them is illegal. Since shock collars are explicitly not made for humans, (permanent) injuries cause by them are most likely not covered by liability insurance. Furthermore these injuries might be considered a form of battery the sub is not able to consent to which can be a basis for criminal charges.

Finally, if you still want to use a shock collar, here are the pieces of advice I promised:

  1. Buy a model for erotic use: There are models out there designed to be used on humans which are somewhat safe (the neck is still not the best play to apply e-stim). However, their intensity is so low that it will not impress most real pain pigs or subs who need real punishment to comply. Furthermore, most of the models are made in Asia so be extra-careful if they put out AC.
  2. If you like the look of a real shock collar, only put it on a sub without batteries.
  3. If you feel that only a shock collar can make your sub comply, tie it around his thighs. It is saver than the neck and the pain and fear of collapsing should make him comply.

Anal Toys 101

Finding the right anal toy and keeping it in good shape so it lasts for a long time can be a bit of a challenge. In this 101 I talk about what to consider when buying an anal toy and how to care for it properly.

Buyer’s Guide to Anal toys

There are many aspects to consider when choosing an anal toy. Especially when you are buying your first one and have not developed personal preferences yet, giving each aspect some thought is a good idea because a good anal toy is quite an investment. But if chosen wisely will bring you fun for years to come.

Material

Deciding out of which material your new anal toy is going to be made is the first step when choosing it because the material properties impact many relevant aspects of anal play.

Material composition

This is the most important aspect of choosing a toy. In the old days before EU regulations and custom testing imported goods, toys which I would not have recommended to put up your butt were widely available!

The inside of your colon is basically one big mucosal that will happily absorb whatever the lube (especially water-based lube) washes out of the toy’s material. Thus I recommend only purchasing toys which are manufactured in the EU or USA where dangerous plasticizers like phthalates or lead as a catalytic agent for silicone are forbidden. Just to be safe look for the label “Platinum Silicone” or “Phthalates Free” when choosing a toy. At the end of Buyer’s Guide there is a list of manufacturers I personally source from if you want a recommendation.

Lube

Not every lube can be used with every material. Some lubes will actually cause to disintegrate your toy. Thus depending on your lube preferences you have to choose the toy material.

The following chart shows which lube can generally speaking be safely used with which material. Of cause individual material composition can lead to unexpected effects. If you want to err on the side of safety only use water-based lube.

Water-base Lube Silicone-Base Lube Hybrid Lube Oil/Fat-Base Lube
Silicone X X
PVC/ Vinyl
Rubber X
TPR (✔) (✔)
Other hard Plastic
Wood
Glass
Metal

The Square Peg Charlie Horse Wiggly in Supersoft Bronze from Regulation

Firmness & Surface Smoothness

While glass, metal and wood are always hard, the plastic ones come in different degrees of firmness. With the latter group the thickness is also influenced by the thickness. The thicker a toy the harder it will feel.

Which degree of firmness is good is depends on the usage situation. For training your ass a softer toy is better because it adjusts a bit to the sphincter. For wearing a toy for an extended period of time a harder material is better because the sphincter will adjust to the form of the toy which is more comfortable in the long run. Also with hard surfaces the likelihood of skin folds and thus a pinching sensation decreases.

The firmness also impacts the structural integrity. The firmer the toy the easier it will stand up by itself. This is especially important then you want to ride or sit on a toy. If it is too soft, it will collapse.

Furthermore the surface structure is important. The smoother the surface the easier the toy glides in and the easier it will be to clean.

Pervertables

A quick word on pervertables: There are wooden, metal and glass objects which are not made for anal play but are being used for it, most prominently baseball bats or batons. Before inserting them into your rectum make sure they are deburred and 100% smooth! Especially which with wood it is imperative that is has a sanded and treated surface! Getting a splinter into your colon is always a reason to rush to the ER! As for glass objects, especially vases and bottles: Keep them out of your ass! The glass used to anal toys is a special type of glass that almost never breaks and glass anal toys are always solid. The injuries caused by shards of broken glass inside your rectum can be lethal!

The Bolder Stoll Doll from Regulation

Toy Form Factor

There are two major form factors: Dildos, which are compared to their thickness relatively long shafts with a tapered ending for easier insertion, and plugs, which are shorter and between the maximum diameter and the base taper again so they can stay inside the butt.

Dildos

Dildos are probably the oldest sex toys humans invented. Stone penises as old as 28.000 years have been excavated. They induce a friction sensation on the nerve endings inside the sphincter while sliding in and out and at best hit the prostate. Depending on the glans’ shape there can be some stretching sensation.

Dildos come in two varieties. The first one are realistic dildos. They mimic the penis shape of humans, animal or anthropomorphic beings. This means the shaft is textured with veins which intensify the friction and thus the sensation. At the bottom end most of the them feature a base shaped like balls. The second variety are shape dildos. They are bullet or torpedo shaped and lack natural texturing.

The Square Peg Depth Probe from Regulation

Somewhere between dildos and plugs are shape dildos which consist of a series of bulges. The most extreme form of this form are anal beads. They are a series of balls connected by a string or a tubes which are inserted into the ass and then slowly pulled out. Of cause these toys aim to create a stretching sensation rather than a friction one.

A special form of dildos are so call depth trainers, also commonly called colon snakes. They are long (at least 35cm long), made out of flexible materials and don’t have much texture; a depth indication scale at most. They are designed to seduce the second sphincter to gradually open up to prepare for deep fisting.  Since this sphincter is not used to physical stimulation and unlike the anus can’t be relaxed purposefully, training it takes some time. So don’t rush it!

The Oxballs Pig Hole Deep from Mr S

Plugs

The shape of a butt plugs is best compared to the bottom half of a sand clock. From the tip they gradually increase in diameter and then – depending on the plug – either taper again or go directly into a short neck which is attached to a base. Through the gradually increasing diameter the main sensation of plugs is a stretching one.  So plugs are good to slowly accustom to and train the sphincter to a certain diameter.

A special form of plugs are hollow or tunnel plugs. Their outside form is like a butt plug but instead of being solid they have hole in the middle. Through the opening in the middle the tip is dull. So even if you can take the maximum diameter of the plug you might not be able to take it or only after a long pre-stretching. The hole is useful for many things. Through it lube or other liquids can be poured or the closing function of the sphincter can temporarily be taken away. The plug also protects the nerve endings in the sphincter from friction. Thus hollow plugs are especially useful in combination with depth trainers. Such plugs shield the anus from the friction sensation allowing the bottom to focus on what is happening at his second sphincter. When the tunnel plug is made out of a stretchy material (and is large enough) it can be used to fist through it making a formally too small interesting again or put it over a standard butt plug to increase its size.

With the increasing popularity of pet play there is a growing market of tail plugs. Instead of a base an appendix mimicking the look of an animal’s tail (most common are dog and pig tails) is attached to the plug’s body.  When choosing a tail keep two things in mind: Don’t buy a too small plug section because if it slides in too easily it will also slide out easily causing you to lose the tail when walking or wagging. Furthermore the mass ration between the plug and the tail should not be too much off. The center of gravity should be at the plug otherwise there is also the danger of the tail popping out easily. Tails are also popular with switchers not into pet play. When fucking somebody the tail will develop an momentum which is transferred to the plug section which than stimulates the prostate.

Finding the Right Size & Form

The following factors determined first if you will be able to take the anal toy and second how much you will enjoy it.

The Domestic Partner Crack Attack from Regulation

Maximum Diameter

Usually 3cm to 4cm is a good size to start out anal play. As you progress to bigger toys I recommend going up in steps of 1cm to 1.5cm increased maximum diameter. This is enough of a challenge yet you get the satisfaction of conquering the toy after a couple of days to weeks depending on how thoroughly you train. I know that this is costly by trying to get a toy in for weeks and always failing is very frustrating!

Slope

The slope of a toy defines how quickly the diameter from the tip on increases.

Even though the sphincter at the anus can somewhat voluntarily be relaxed it still is a muscle humans cannot control completely. It needs to be seduced to open up and in order to establish a certain training level actually carefully (!) stretched like every other muscle. Thus generally speaking steeper slopes are better because they allow the sphincter to open up more gradually. Especially when you are a novice stay away from toys with large dull tips because it will just press against the sphincter and it won’t open up. But even with a well-trained ass you will encounter toys that diameter wise are not really a challenge yet you won’t be able to take due to a weird slope. Sadly there now way to know before the purchase with which toys this is going to be the case so please be prepared for one or two useless purchases.

At butt plugs there are two slopes to look it: First the one before the maximum diameter which I just talked about. The second one is the one behind it. It defines how easily the toy comes out again. When you want to train your sphincter a steep slope is preferable. Once inside you can slowly fuck yourself with the plug, enjoying the stretching sensation. If you want to wear the plug for an extended period of time a duller to non-existing slope is preferable because it makes involuntarily popping out more difficult. However please keep in mind: When keeping a plug in, the “warm-up” effect of pushing it in slowly fades so seducing your sphincter to open up and release the plug becomes increasingly more difficult when keeping it in for long.

The Square Peg Happy Hour from Mr S

Position of Widest Diameter

Especially when you progress in training the position of the widest diameter becomes an important aspect to keep in mind. If you stick with a steep slope and increase the diameter the location of the maximum diameter moves further away from the tip so you have to insert more length for the maximum stretch. Since the colon is a quite small body cavern you might not reach the neck or even the maximum diameter. From a psychological point of view this is bad when training because inserting a toy completely fills you with a sense of accomplishment and giving you an opportunity to rest. This is usually a boost of eagerness to train further. Constantly failing on a plug is quite demotivating.

Texture

The texture describes the surface of a toy beyond the material properties (see: Firmness & Surface Smoothness). Since texture increases the friction of a toy it makes the insertion more difficult. So a textured toy with a diameter you usually take easily might not fit afterall.

In the section about natural dildos I have already briefly talked about natural texturing. They comprise of veins, the molded glans and foreskin and when we look at anthropomorphic toys scales, etc.

Detail of the Convex Shape and the Heavily Textured Surface of Apollo the Chimera

On shape dildos and plugs these three texture patters can be found (in ascending order of intensity): Groves, bumps and ridges. Which form delivers the best sensation is very individual. But a good rule of thumb is: the higher the texture is risen the stronger the stimulation. This of cause means that these toys are meant for play when the hole is already relaxed and well played with so it is not about the stretching (sensation) but about teasing the nerves in the sphincter. Please keep in mind that this form of play can wear out an ass quickly so be prepared for the scene to end rather sooner than later.

Extra Features

Sometimes toys come with extra features for a more intense or varied play. The most commonly found extra are sucktion cups. They enable you to temporarily securely attach the toy to a smooth surface (tiles are best for it) using vacuum. This is nifty feature when you really want to ride at toy so it doesn’t slip away.

For training the sphincter or creating a feeling of being stuffed without being able to take large diameters inflatable toys are useful. Once inserted you can pump them up in order to increase the diameter. I recommend buying only inflatable toys with a solid core for easier insertion.

Detail of the Base with Suction Cup Feature

A less commonly found feature are cum tubes. At the tip of the toy there is a small opening onto which a tube is attached. At the end of this tube is a syringe filled with a cum like lube. If you pus the end of the syringe the cum is getting splashed into the colon simulating an ejaculation. As nifty and unique as this sensation might be, a cum tube makes cleaning and drying of the toy more difficult.

For added stimulation some anal toys feature a vibrating function. When you are using quite hard toys this sensation can also be achieved by pressing a magic wand against the toy’s base. Another added stimulation is e-stim. Please refer to my in-depth review of e-stim plugs here for more information.

Personal Recommendations

This is a highly subjective, certainly not complete list of brand and retailers where good anal toys can be found. From these I source my anal toys from because I trust them for their product safety and quality.

Caring for your Anal Toys

Cleaning & Safer Sex

From a Safer Sex point of view a toy should either be used only by one person or covered by a condom. While the first is unlikely if you are having an active “social” life, the latter is unpractical as soon as it comes to toys larger than an L size penis. So cleaning the toys the right way is essential.

To clean your toys after play fill the sink with water between 40°C and 50°C, add dish soap and let the toy soak for approx. 15 minutes. I recommend using dish soap without perfume or lotion because these additives are bad for rubber and some PVCs. If you have used very thick water based lube add salt to break down the lube. At the soaking scrub the toys with a soft brush and rinse the soap water off. As a first step of sanitizing fill the sink again with hot water, add vinegar-based cleaner (possibly organic because you want to shove the toy up your butt again) and let it soak for a quarter of an hour. The acid in the vinegar will also deal with most of the unpleasant smells. Rinse the toy off and let it dry. Finally spray the toy with a sanitizer. The agents in the sanitizer can make glossy surfaces dull so you might want to try it on the base where the blemished surface is inconspicuous.

With some materials other means of sterilization are also possible once the lube has been washed off.  Metal toys can be flamed or autoclaved; the latter is also possible with high quality silicone toys.

A common question is how to deal with discolored toys. Sadly this effect is irreversible and simply comes with ages of plastic toys. To avoid it, buy only black toys.

Storage

In order to have long lasting fun with your toys keep some simple storage rules in mind. Always clean the toys after using them. The lube or body fluids otherwise can foster chemical reactions which might harm the toy. The storage place should be dry and well ventilated especially when you are storing toys from different manufacturers or made out of different materials together. The toys must never touch! The different plasticizers used by different manufacturers and materials can cause the toys to dissolve when touching or the air being filled with them. If the process started (an area getting sticky or gooy) it is too late. Sadly the process is irreversible and sooner than later you have to throw away the toy. Especially soft toys should be stored upright (or in case of depth trainers loosely rolled up) otherwise they might get permanent creases.

Buyer’s Guide To Collars

ToyTorture.com has always been sort of a reflection of my own play style and my own desires manifested in toys. As authentic and honest reviews at that approach might create the flaw of it is that I am missing out on entire categories of toys. Sometimes I get asked about these categories over and over. Chastity is one of them, collars is another. Since a collar is the strongest bondage device out there yet I am not really into them I decided at the end of the Heavy Bondage Special to give a short overview of the collars out there. Especially in the paragraph about the symbolism of collars I am making a lot of generalizations. Please do not feel offended if your individual perception is different but celebrate it as the diversity that is the heart of our community. After that I briefly talk about the different materials collars can be made out of. The last and main part of this article are showing different kinds of collars. I sorted the collars into two categories: The first are decorative collars which primarily serve a symbolic purpose and through their designed are not primarily designed to be integrated into play. The latter category are functional collars which are made to be played with.

 

The Symbolism of Collars

Collars have a strong symbolic meaning in the BDSM community. They are a sign that a person belongs to someone. It is common for top who wants to establish a deeper and long-term orientated relationship with a bottom to put a collar around his neck to show him and the world that the sub belongs to him and is no longer free. This act is called “collaring”. Being collard usually implies a interdependent relationship: The top promises to give the sub something usually guidance, protection and play in exchange for the subs devotion, obedience, trust and loyalty. Due to the powerful contract which a collar symbolizes it is a very special piece of gear which is treated unlike any other. Usually only the top is allowed to put it on and take it off, most of the time also only the top may touch it. Touching the collar of a sub without asking the top for permission is considered highly offensive and even hostile by some people. In some high protocol situations it is even forbidden to talk to a collard sub because you are violating the property of another top. Also in a high protocol environment it is not uncommon for subs to walk around with a collar around his neck but with an open lock. This is a signal that he is open for a top to collar him. Closing the lock just for fun or laughs again is offensive because the sub probably hopes to get at least some of the affection listed above from the persons who closed the lock.

Materials

Collars can be made of nearly every fetish material out there. Most common are leather collars. Because the material is skin friendly and to a certain degree can absorb sweat it is best for long term wear. Rubber and neoprene lack this quality so wearing it for extended periods of time can lead to skin irritation, especially when wearing a collar out of stiff industrial rubber without deburred edges on bare skin. The last common material to mention here is metal. I have seen collars being made out of all different kinds of metal. However I would recommend only ones being made out of stainless steel or aluminum because even when exposed to sweat they do not rust. Other metals like cooper or steel oxidizes. Because a collar through constant movement experiences some physical stress corrosion prevention applied to steel like chrome or zinc wears off and the collar can rust again. Of cause noble metals like gold or platinum do not rust but you have to be quite the posh kinkster to afford such a collar. Metal collars come in form of chain, chainmail, rings or steel cable. When it comes to chain you can choose between welded and forged chain. Welded chain industrial made and thus cheaper and has a deburred weldseam. Depending on the quality the deburration is not as good as it should be so there is a potential for scratches when wearing a collar. So before wearing it check the seams of there are not rough edges.

More uncommon materials I have seen collars made out of are braided rope, jeans cloth, bike chain and tires.

Decorative Collars

Chain

Probably the most common form of the collars and thus comes in various styles (p.e. from Mr S or Regulation). All have in common that they are closed by a pad lock which is mostly worn up front. The most common pattern is the anchor chain which is made out of round links which either come in long or short versions and in various thicknesses. Even when using a small pad lock the link size is usually so large that this kind of collar can’t be worn discreetly under a shirt. Depending on the personal style the chain can be worn longer or tight around the neck. The advantage of this chain is that you can easily attach things to the collar using pad locks or carabiners. Depending on the pad lock quality you can grab and pull the sub on this collar.

Mr S Yellow Colors Aluminum Chainmail Collar

Mr S Yellow Colors Aluminum Chainmail Collar

Chainmail

Chainmail is a material where small metal rings are linked together to form a mesh-like surfaces. Collars out of this material are lighter and smaller and thus more discreet than chains. Of cause they are also more fragile and should not be pulled on. A nifty feature of the Mr S Aluminum ones is that they come in different colors so you can use them a bit as a hanky. If you can a bit more weighted feeling try out the stainless steel one.

Torquator Collar

Stylewise somewhere between a chain pattern and chainmail this collar was originally designed to restrain dogs. So this collar is popular by dog players especially of wild ones. When pulling onto this collar please be careful because serious injuries can be the result.

 

Cable Lock

Another discreet option is the cable lock collar from Recon. The collar itself is made out of coated steel but since there are no moving links the coating will probably will not rub off keeping the cable from rusting. The two endings are made out of stainless steel with colored rubber accents so again you can show your favorite kink. Unlike the chainmail collar this one is also closed with a lock which has a great psychologically effect. The lock and the collar are small and discreet enough to be worn under a dress shirt during work yet to frail to be pulled on.

Rope Collar

If a closed look is too much of a statement or you don’t like the idea of metal around your neck (after all a collar is all about the headspace), Mr S came up with a rope collar. It is made out of black braided rope and closed with a leather strap and a non-locking roller buckle. If you ask the guys at Mr S nicely the can probably make you this collar also in other colors

Tolan Collar

This is basically an ergonomically shaped ring of steel around the sub’s neck. It is nearly seamless and rather sleek so it can be worn under a business shirt without showing off or attracting attention. Since it is made out of stainless steel it will not rust.

Jougs

I am not sure if to put jougs into this category or the play category because wearing them for an extended period of time is definitely a punishment! Jougs or iron collars are made out of piece of steel, sometimes lined with leather for additional comfort. They are closed by padlocks, integrated locks or screws. Sometimes they come with d-rings welded onto them for added play possibilities. Sometimes following antic models they already have cuffs for the hands attached or even also feet welded with chains onto them. Another version are double rigid irons for the neck and the wrists for real stress bondage.

The Heaviest Parus Steel Collar Weighing 8.5kg

The Heaviest Parus Steel Collar Weighing 8.5kg

The most sever iron collars I know off are made by Parus in Munich. I already wrote a Christmas gift tip about them last year. They are really well made, almost seamless with the integrated lock and so heavy that with some models I would like to recommend consulting your doctor about disc problems before putting them on!

Regardless of what kind of iron collar you are getting when shopping for a joug please watch for deburred edges otherwise severe abrasions can happen!

Functional Collars

Bondage collar

Another quite common type of collars (p.e. from Mr S or Regulation). They basically are like a cuff style restraint just larger to fit around the neck. So very often you can get matching collars to your existing restraint set. Being made for play they come with d-rings to attach the sub to thing or restraint to the neck. Depending on the individual style some are locking which adds a sense of bondage. A pro tip: If you want to fetter a large boot, p.e. an MX boot, and your restraint set’s ankle cuffs are too small try out a collar. Most of the time they are large enough and will serve you well as a boot restraint.

Fetters Posture Collar

Fetters Posture Collar

Posture collar

A posture collar (look at Mr S or Regulation) is a more intense form of the bondage collar. It is quite wide and usually padded, sometimes it also has an anatomically formed chin rest. The effect of this design is that tilting of the head and nodding is getting extremely difficult locking the head in one place. Usually such a collar will also have d-rings and there are locking versions out there.

Chocking Collar

More a breathplay toy than just a simple collar please use this one with caution! This collar is basically a latigo leather belt that is closed by a rolling buckle tightly around the neck. On the other side of the belt is a small metal loop with a roller feature through which the belt exits. In that end a d-ring is added onto which a leash can be attached. If you pull on the leash the collar will tighten and chock the person wearing it.

Shock Collar

Shock collars were originally designed to train dogs. Onto a nylon collar a remote controllable box with two electrode pins is attached. Usually this kind of collars come with different intensity settings. I implore you to take advantage of these different settings and don’t start out too high! The shock boxes are designed to train even dogs which have thick fur and skin. On human skin they can leave burn marks or even damage the nerve system! There are fetish versions out there which are not so powerful but being a power bottom and pain pig myself I can see the temptations of “the real deal” especially when it comes to dog play. Yet still please be careful. Not sexual kink is worth losing your health permanently.

Fetters Wrist-to-Neck Restraints

Fetters Wrist-to-Neck Restraints

Wrist to neck Restraint

Not really just a collar but the leather version of an iron collar with attached restraints. It is a leather lined locking collar onto which two locking wrist restraints are riveted. These rivets allow for some movement around its axis but otherwise the head has to go where the hand wants to be. Especially with added bondage mitts this will leave the sub quite helpless.

Collars Accessories

Especially with the raise of pup and dog play in the last couple of years collar accessories have gained popularity. Most commonly dog tags are used either in their original purpose to mark the dog and write his name on it. But I have also seen a bouquet of different colored tags as hankies. Of cause a dog needs guidance and sometimes restraining so leather leashes become quite popular.

Bondage Hardware Special Part 6 –Emergency Kit

Easy to spot and handy enough to take to dungeon parties.

Easy to spot and handy enough to take to dungeon parties.

This article is the last part of the Bondage Hardware Special. In this text I will show you what I keep in the emergency kit that I usually take with me when I go out for play. It gives me a bit of confidence knowing that if something goes wrong I can properly deal with it. This confidence of cause requires some discipline so before each time I take this bag with me I check if everything is there in a decent amount and still good. If not, I replace it. Some items might sound strange to you or trivial because they are standard equipment of every play location. However if you ever had to wipe away blood in a play space where paper towels were scarce you don’t laugh about a tissue pack in an emergency kit.

The kit I have put together might not be perfect but it has proven itself in emergencies. If you feel I have forgotten something important please send me an e-mail.

Gloves

Gloves are the basis for every wound care. It prevents the wound from being infected with bacteria from your hand (if you put them on in a correct way) and protects you from possible infections. I have to admit that I don’t carry sterile one in my kit but use hand sanitizer on them before touching the injured person.

Band-aid & Adhesive Tape

Don’t really know what to write about band-aids. Should a no brainer and should be kept in a separate plastic bag to prevent it from possible contamination.

Gauze Bandage & Compresses

If a band-aid is not enough these are the right tools to staunch a wound. To some this might sound a bit overkill and I have to admit that I luckily never had to use mine. Yet I have seen suspension setups failing, tall people walking against arches and getting lacerations on their forehead. Again: Better be safe than sorry.

First Aid Blanket

Another better safe than sorry item. I can hardly think of a play induced injury that would require a first aid blanket but they are useful after a circulatory collapse or hypoglycemia.

Tissue

Tissues are quite versatile objects: You can use them as an impro compress, turn them into alcohol wipes or simple wipe away blood.

Disinfection

There are three different kinds of disinfection products in my bag. The most important one is my 90% alcohol solution. Some disinfection sprays have additives which make them a bit more effective but can cause skin irritations. Because of that I use alcohol to sanitize abrased skin like a flogged back or my toys after using them. If the wound is deeper or larger I use a wound spray which also disinfects and helps the wound heal. Yet the one I use stings even more than alcohol so I use it only in emergencies. The last disinfection product is sanitizing hand gel which can be incorporated into play p.e. messaging it into the skin area.

Ointment

There are a number of different ointments out there for different purposes, like panthenol for abrased skin or zinc oxide for treating burns. Because space in my bag is limited I chose a diaper rash ointment which is sold in travel size. With panthenol, zinc oxide, chamomile and marigold extract it is not as potent as a pure wound ointments yet I like it for its versatility. It is good enough for a first treatment, potent enough to (almost) restore worn nipple over night for another scene and soothes abused sphincter after a heavy fisting.

Horse Ointment

This product raises the most eye brows. Originally designed to help horses recover after races this gel has a lot of soothing, cooling and anti-bruise ingredients. Especially when you have damaged joints this ointment works wonder after stress bondage or kneeling! The smell is a bit hate it or love it but it magically restores mobility over night.

Emergency Hardware

Emergency Hardware

EMT Scissors, Emergency Knife, Belt Cutter & Multi Tool

Please read last week’s article why I consider these tools essential. I usually have at least a pair of EMT scissors in my play bag but in an emergency I don’t want to search but just quickly grab thus I keep an additional one in my bright red bag.

Flash light

Another eye brow raiser in my kit. I once attended a play party when there was a power failure and the dungeon went dark and through the following turmoil my sub started to panic. Undoing a sub in total darkness is no fun so I now carry a flash light with me. It comes in also handy when you look for keys, nipple clamps or other small stuff you tend to loose in a dark space.

Consolatury Candy for After Scene Care.

Consolatury Candy for After Scene Care.

Chocolate, Consolatory Cookies & Dextrose

While both candies are useful when you are playing with a person suffering from diabetes these are more aftercare items. A BDSM scene puts the body in a state of alertness and thus mobilizes emergency resources which is quite exhausting for the sub. While the endorphin level is high and this state continues you don’t feel how spent you are. In order to prevent a crash I give and take dextrose after a scene. The chocolate has the same effect but also has a bit of rewarding component. Maybe the top pushed you onto your edge and beyond and I have some of the fondest memories cuddling with my top after an intense scene happily munching my chocolate and cookies.

Cough & Iceland Moos

When you have incorporated gases into your breath play like poppers in the aftermath you lungs and airways could be irritated, phlegm and you can experience problems breathing. Strong cough drops help clear the airways and Iceland moos helps regenerate the irritated areas.

Condoms & Lube

Again as with the EMT scissors: The emergency kit is the place where I know that I definitely have a stash in case of a horniness emergency.

 

This was the last part of the Bondage Hardware Special. I hope you enjoyed it. If you have any suggestions or comments, please let me know.

Sticking to the theme there will be a special on Heavy Bondage toys soon.

Bondage Hardware Special Part 5 –Safety Hardware

The last four weeks were about different means to fetter a sub whether with rope or how to most effectively use all the great other bondage gear that is out there. But what if something goes wrong and you can’t release the sub out of the bondage setup? This article is about different tools that in a case of emergency will help release a sub in a secure way. Usually this goes to the cost of the bondage gear but better replace a rope or restraint than having to go to the emergency room! If you are hesitant about your precious and expensive ropes, buy them from Twisted Monk. He will give you a discount when you replace cut ropes because like me he values the sub’s security over the preservation of gear.

Mr S Safety Scissors

Mr S Safety Scissors

Scissors

Scissors are the most essential safety tools of a playroom if you don’t use chain or metal wire for bondage. If you buy the right ones they will cut the sub out of restraints with jammed locks, release mummified bondage bottoms and slice band aids in the right length. To my own surprise I still see high quality kitchen scissors in playroom with the argument that they cut really well. While having a kitchen scissor is better than having none I would not recommend using them. Due to their pointy end they can cause injuries. Instead buy emergency scissors. You can get them in any good fetish stores (like Mr S or Regulation) and most of the time they are surprisingly cheaper there than in pharmacies and drug stores. These emergency scissors are good for the most common playroom emergencies like cutting rope, leather or Segufix restraints. If you are into heavier bondage like fiberglass casting or you high resistance gear incorporating Kevlar I would recommend investing more money. There are safety scissors out there used in ambulances to cut bikers out of Kevlar reinforced bike gear. The costs 200€+ but are well worth the money if you play that heavy.

Bolt Cutters

If you fancy steel over leather and rope this are your safety scissors. Bolt cutters will open jammed locks, cut steel wires or bend open chain elements or D-rings if necessary. Bolt cutters are usually certified for maximum thickness of steel they can handle. I would recommend you to buy a model that can handle 20% more than your thickest chain just to have a safety margin. There are people out there who use die grinders or oscillating tools for cutting metal. While they are quicker and require no brute force to cut through metal I would not recommend them. In order not to harm the sub he needs to lay still and the person using the tools needs a calm hand, both conditions that are usually not met in a case of emergency.

Finally a word about the materials a bolt cutter can cut: Usually they are designed to cut steel. Because aluminum is a rather tough metal most bolt cutters can’t cut it so you need different means to cut open most climbing carabiners.

Emergency Knife for Rope Cutting with a Belt Cutter

Emergency Knife for Rope Cutting with a Belt Cutter

Emergency Knife

This kind of knife is designed to cut through tough material in cases of emergency. They come in different varieties. Mine is designed to be place under a rope and sever through it without any danger for the person lying under the rope. There are also versions out there with a point end that can cut through tougher material like Kevlar but naturally with this design can potentially injure the sub. All blades have a mechanical locking mechanism so even when applying great force the blade won’t close. A nifty thing is that most emergency knifes have a belt cutter on one end.

Belt Cutter

For most of my bondage setups I use tension belts made out of nylon. This special cutter cuts through them like butter if they are taut. Some of them even cut through thin strings. Because unlike scissors you don’t have to open and close the belt cutter in some situations they are a quicker way to cut someone free.

Leatherman Multi Tool

Leatherman Multi Tool

Multi Tool

This article is called security hardware so this is the right place to talk about multi tools. While the tools describe above are designed to release subs out of a predicament this is more of a precaution tool. Sometimes you see a loose screw, a rough edge or other imperfections in your playroom you usually would not necessarily fix right away because you would need to get your tools. Sadly these little things can cause big problems. Because of that I keep a multi tool in the playroom for all the little things that need to be fixed right away. Besides that multi tools come with scissors, a knife, needle-nosed pliers and reamers. While they might not be strong enough or designed for injury protection when used close to humans they are better than nothing when you need a tool fast. Some multi tools even come with a set of hexes which is useful when you dislocated the hex to open the ball stretcher.

While there are a lot of inexpensive multi tools sold, I strongly recommend investing the money into a quality brand product. Most other multi tools are so flimsy that pose a threat in their own.

 

While the tools presented in this article help to prevent greater injuries sometimes it might be too late. So in the next and thus last part of the Bondage Hardware Special I will take you on a tour through my emergency bag and thus through all the things I consider essential to keep at hand when playing hard.

  • 9ee6292c41ad2ef691c9e90a8a7a2b8a

    9ee6292c41ad2ef691c9e90a8a7a2b8a