E-Stims System Mirco, Classic Medium and Magnum Medium Bipolar Plugs

E Stim Electrodes

Vendor: E-Stim Systems

When I started purchasing electrodes for my E-Stim box a good friend and top of mine recommended the bipolar ones from E-Stim Systems. Knowing that my anus isn’t really trained I started off with the Classic Medium but soon purchased the Micro and the Magnum Medium to have a bit more of a choice when tormenting mine or other people’s asses.

Because the electrodes are quite similar I decided to review them all at once and go into detail about the individual differences in the play section.


All electrodes reviewed in this article are from their premium range, meaning they are made out of stainless steel with high quality plastic as insulator. Due to the high quality and robust materials the electrode will probably outlive you. And if it doesn’t E-Stim Systems has a lifetime guarantee for their premium electrode.

A disassambled Magnum MediumThe plugs are made in a five-piece constriction: First there is a stainless steel base with a plastic inset. Through this inset a stainless steel screw put which first goes through a black (in case of the Mirco white) barrel shaped piece of plastic and is finally screwed to the head. There is a 4mm drilling hole at the bottom of the base and the screw where you put standard 4mm banana plugs in order to connect the electrode with your e-stim box. When cleaning your electrode after playing simply take out the cable, disassemble the electrode and wash it with warm water using soap.

Bottom view with 4mm Drilling HolesThe stainless steel surfaces comes in a standard brushed finish which gives it a very sleek, modern and sleek appearance. When you order the electrodes directly from E-Stim’s website you can also order all electrodes in a polished version for a 10% premium. It is hard for me to recommend a surface treatment: As a jeweler sales assistant I know that a polished surface won’t show scrates as easily as a brushed one (If you are interested to know why, send me an e-mail), but personally I prefer the look of the brushed stainless steel. And if you are not ordering your toys directly from their website you will most likely only have the option of getting the brushed finishes.

Mirco Classic Medium Magnum Medium
Head & Bas Diameter 25mm 25mm 38mm
Head Length 19mm 36mm 91mm
Base Length 30mm 41mm 26,5mm
Neck Length 2,5mm 35,5mm 19,5mm
Overall Lenght 51,5mm 112,5mm 137mm
Neck Diameter 14mm 16mm 20mm
Difference between Head and Neck Diameter per side 5,7mm 4,7mm 9mm
Distance between Drilling Holes 6,5mm 6mm 9mm
Weight 82g 140g 331g

Playing with them

First a advice how to read this section: I will only discuss how the physical properties influence the sensation. The sensation itself depends very much on your e-stim box and the program you select.

When choosing the right electrode before play there are two important things to keep in mind:

  1. Standard and Low Profile CablesThe Material: Unlike other soft materials like vinyl or silicone most anal toys are made out off stainless steel will not yield! So if you can barely fit a 38mm vinyl plug into your ass taking the Magnum Medium for example will at least take some training.
  2. The Handling: A lot of people put condoms over their anal toys when switching partners. The condom’s latex layer will at best alter the way the current flows thus might produce unwanted effects, at worst no current will flow at all. But because the stainless steel is easily cleaned and disinfected this isn’t a big issue if you clean your toy thoroughly after using it on one partner. When it comes to lube I would always recommend water-based lube. The glycerin in the lube will help the current flow from the metal to the skin. A thick layer of silicone lube can produced unwanted effect.
    There are specialized electro lubes out there but in my opinion they are overrated. For my sessions I use Swiss Navy water based lube. It keeps it gliding properties for a long period of time and transmits current very well.

Generally speaking when it comes to electrodes: The larger the mass and the contact area the “smoother” the sensation will be. Furthermore you will only feel the sensation at the pole with the lower mass which isn’t important for bipolar electrodes because most people can’t tell if the electro sensation is on the inner or outer side of their anus.

In order to insert an electro plug warm it up a bit up to body temperature, plug in the cables, put some lube only on the head of the electrode and gently push it into your anus. Because unlike other bipolar electrodes the base and the head is connected by a solid connection pushing it in is easy. Now connect the cable to your electro box and start the stimulation. Each of the three plugs produces a different sensation:

  1. The MicroThe Micro: Through its small size and short neck the Micro sits directly on your sphincter and only stimulates there. The small mass results in a fine line between interesting and unique buzzing feeling directly inside your anus between a challenging and also unique torture of this body part. But the size is also a problem: When your ass can take dildos from 3cm diameter on or if the Micro is lubed very well it will almost instantly slip out of your ass. I would advice maintaining light pressure on the electrode until you sit or lie down.
  2. The Classis MediumThe Classic Medium: Through its size it is easily inserted even into untrained asses. The even mass distribution between neck and head and larger mass compared to the Mirco results in a wider range of pleasurable experiences when turning up the power. The pièce de résistance of the Classic range are their three different lengths: When sitting on it, it will press onto your prostate. You just need to find the right length.
  3. The Magnum MediumThe Magnum Medium: Through its big mass the sensation feels smoother and a bit more even than the previous two ones. Of cause you need more power from the box to produce the same stimulation level. I wouldn’t recommend this electrode for a box with a low output. Through its size and weight in addition to the electro sensation you get a feeling of fullness inside your rectum. While walking the mass will develop some moving momentum and will most likely hit your prostate which has its own appeal.

Low Profile Cables pluged into the MicroE-Stim Systems claims on their website that none of the electrodes I own are designed for low profile cables. I have made my own low profile cables and the fit without a problem on the Mirco and the Magnum and with a bit of pressure on the Classic. If you want to sit on or lie down while using the electrode you need low profile banana plugs so you need to try out which works best for you.

Low Profile and Standard Cables plugged into a Magnum Medium and a MicroOf cause you can use the electrode also as a monopole. Just plug one banana plug into the anal electrode and the other one onto another electrode, a pin wheel or a rubber loop for example.  Another usage for the electrodes is using them as standard stainless steel plugs for long term wearing. Because the connection between the head and the base in not flexible you will probably get tired of wearing it sooner than when wearing a plug with a flexible connection.

Conslusion: High quality and versatile plugs not only made for e-stim.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Micro Classic Medium Magnum Medium
Easy to insert Graduation between electrodes is fairly coarse EStim Systems (Manufacturer) £42 £44 £69
Robust Hard to disassemble when screwed on tightly Mister B 68€ 76€ 119,95€
Lifetime guarantee          
Easy to clean          
Good looks          

E-Stim Systems 1 ¼ Inch Flanged Bipolar Electrode

Mock Up Electrode compared to exising Products

This is a first time in the desiderate section: I am not only wanting a specific toy, I am (hopefully) helping designing one. As you can read here I am a big fan of the E-Sim System’s premium bipolar electrode. They are comfortable to wear and will probably outlive me.

Outline of 1,25 Inch ElectrodeBecause E-Stim Systems is based in the United Kingdom they use the imperial measurement system thus their products come in sizes 1”, 1,5” and 2” (and of cause much, much bigger). At least in my opinion this leads to very big gaps between the different sizes: While a n electrode with a  1” diameter is easily inserted (and most likely will as easily fall out again), one with a 1,5” diameter is for people with an untrained anus already a struggle, especially when it comes to Flanged series which has dull heads.

I have always liked the concept of their flanged, easy to sit on electrodes, especially in combination with a remote controlled box. But all electrodes in the range were either too small (the difference between the head and the neck with the Flange is so little it will most likely fall out of your ass when you walk) or too big. So I am hoping that in some point of time they will start manufacturing a 1 ¼” electrode: Not too big to cause any bigger problems when inserting but with a large enough difference between the head and the neck to walk around freely without having to fear approx. 220g of Steel falling out of your ass. In the end it is in your hands to get it into production: I have talked to the guys at E-Stim Systems. If enough people demand a product they will put it into production.

How Mister B brightened my week

As a marketing person I have been taught to never start a message with a negative statement. But today I somehow can’t do anything else: My week has been shitty so far. On Monday I fell down some stairs on campus and have to walk on crutches. Holding on crutches while standing in a crowded metro probably made me an easy victim because in such a place my smartphone and a set of expensive and very dear to me pens were stolen out of my pocket on Wednesday.

Mister B Medical Padded Leather CollarDespite the theft I went to Demask with a friend of mine in order to look for a collar for him. He decided to go for a custom black version of the Mister B Medical Padded Leather Collar because he wanted a locking buckle. When leaving the shop I saw the Mister B beanie hanging behind the counter. I wasn’t really in the mood for any further browsing even though I need a new one so I didn’t ask for the price.

Mister B Boot BagMister B Gym Sack used as Sneaker BagToday I went on Mister B’s website and discovered they have updated their entire signature line. For some time I have been using two of their gym sacks for keeping sneakers or dildos together in my suitcase or as a light and small bag for an essential selection of toys to carry around in clubs. I tried carrying around boots in them twice. Sadly they are not big enough for 20 hole rangers and the rivets aren’t really designed to hold such weight. Mister B Gym Sack used as Dildo BagSo with great delight I found out that Mister B now has a dedicated boot bag. I haven’t any measurements and they won’t arrive at Demask until next week but I from the pictures I believe that the bag can hold a pair of cross boots or two pairs of 20 hole rangers. I will update this page next week when I have taken a look at the bag itself.

Mister B Messenger BagBasically the same thing applies for their new messenger bag. For some time I have been looking for a smaller alternative to my large ones when I just need to carry around a tablet, a sketch book and a bottle of water. It looks rather small so I am not sure if it will hold everything I need but I am definitely excited about a kinky branded bag.

Shirt BackFinally I probably have just been blind but did Mister B update their shirt line? I’ve never seen someone wearing it with a large logo on the back. I am a big fan of shirts with prints on the back. Might just put a size L in black on my birthday list.





For those who are wondering when the next review will be up, I am thinking about Sunday and I am thinking about to review my three bipolar electrodes from E-Stim Systems.

E Stim Electrodes

On Trying to Order a “custom” Surf Suit from Rubber Bob

The first piece of rubber I ever got was a size M surf suit from Blackstyle. When I got it, it fitted quite ok but over the last 2 ½ year I got a bit beefier around the chest and shoulders and sadly a bit wider around the belly. I also got used to color on my latex pieces and since an all-black cat suit as a basic piece is planned to come in 2014 I decided to get myself a new surf suit.

With money being a bit tight as a student (I know I should spend less on toys and more on gear) I looked for alternatives to the great yet more expensive German manufacturers. Rubberbob.co.uk was recommended to me by a bunch of my British Twitter followers. They told me he made basic pieces in good quality for great prices. When I first visited his website I was kind of… surprised by the layout and product pictures. Apparently the website is 13 years old. But if the quality of his products is up-to-date I do not really care about the business’ public appearance. Clicking through his offering I found that surf suits are called “Andy Style” and that you can e-mail them for custom modifications. So I got in touch with him in late October asking about a surf suit with a yellow zipper, two yellow stripes and yellow piping in 0.6mm black latex. As expected due to his focus on basic pieces the colored zipper and the piping weren’t possible. Due to the upcoming Christmas season I didn’t pursue getting a new surf suit any further.

On Wednesday I had a friend over for tea, put him into my rubber surf suit and he loved the look and the feel of rubber yet didn’t want to spend as much on his first piece as I did. Meanwhile I made plans to attend a rubber U35 piss party at the beginning or March in Karlsruhe which gave me a reason to get a new surf suit. So today I got in touch again with Bob this time asking if I could get two yellow stripes on the side and 5 instead of 3 runners on the zipper. He replied that the suit is made out of 0.45mm rubber, only comes with one yellow stripe and that no additional runners can be added. Since runners are easily added in Germany and I can live with one stripe I inquired if I could get the suit made out of 0.6mm rubber for of cause a higher price. He replied that he wishes me best of luck in finding a manufacturer that would match my requirements which left my kind of puzzled: Maybe I am spoiled by the waste amount of options I get offered for example when I am at RubAddiction, Rubber Factory or Blackstyle but simply taking a thicker rubber sheet and charging more for it is in my opinion not a crazy or difficult to fulfill task. So in the end I will probably keep my Blackstyle surf suit or turn to China and see if they are as good or as bad (depending on the source) as the internet claims they are.

Unser WordPress soll schöner werden

For the last couple of month I have been running tests and collecting feedback from selected readers about the design of the website. The main points of criticism were:

  • Due to the static welcome page new content is hard to find
  • The category landing pages are just ugly
  • The way pictures cramped at the top of the articles look bad
  • The light box is not working properly
  • Especially in longer articles the layout could be better

Embarrassingly I had to agree to all points of criticism. Most of them were due to me not being able to deal with WordPress correctly. As you might have seen from today’s posting I have started addressing them and spent some time last week finding plug-ins that work for me in order to make the articles more attractive. Over the next couple of weeks there will be some additional changes to the website. And MAYBE (that is a big maybe) the comment function will be reactivated. So stay tuned and check back on ToyTorture.com in a couple of days.

Buyers Guide to Restraints

About every other week I get a message asking me about different aspects of choosing the right restraints. So in order to get back into writing articles, I condensed the collected answers into this piece. If you feel something is missing or have a recommendation, feel free to send me an e-mail.



Restraints can be made out of any material that is somewhat soft and can withstand force. Because of that I will only cover the most common ones you will come across in most stores. Some special kind of restraints like Segufix or everything only made out of metal will probably be featured in a future article.


It is the most common material to make restraints out of. It is very durable if taken correct care off, will withstand force and is soft and gentle to the skin – if you take the right leather. The right leather means a more softer (and mostly thinner) hide on the inside (mostly calf, lamb or fine cow) and a thicker, sturdier hide on the outside (mostly cow, bull, swine, but also kangaroo or buffalo).

Leather Restraints

Leather Restraints

I would advise you not to be doing too much of kinky on a budget when purchasing leather restraints. First they are an investment that will stay with you for many years and you will use in almost every scene, secondly in recent years east Asian manufacturers discovered the kink market. Their quality of products ranges from shocking to fairly decent. The biggest issue with any leather toys from Asia are that most hides are treat with chemicals like Chromium to save time and money. You will most likely wear this kind of leather on your bare skin which can lead to allergies. And unlike jeans p.e. you can’t wash restraints 10 times in order to get the chemicals out of there. This will not be the case with every leather toy you will get from East Asia but it is something to keep in mind, especially when you shop around on eBay. I would always recommend investing a few bucks more and support a local dealer who knows where is products come from.


Most fabric restraints are made out of nylon but I have seen cotton, canvas and even cevlar ones. They are lighter and smaller than leather restraints and are mostly on the lower end of the price range. This makes them good for starters or if you want to keep a little emergency set in your toy box just in case you forget you bondage bag. Depending on the material they are really easy to clean and disinfect.


There are two types of rubber restraints out there: the one made out of soft latex that is also used on fetish wear and thicker, harder rubber (in Germany we call them „old tires“).

As much as I love rubber as a material general speaking but for a few exceptions rubber restraints are not made for hard play. You can restrict movement with them but if someone really struggles or fights against them, they will probably break (I have destroyed three pairs so far in my BDSM career). The thicker rubber ones are able to withstand more force but are also stiffer. You can find them for little money on eBay but most of the time they just cut rubber mats in stripes and added a few metal piece. But due to being stiff the edges are hard and can cause bruises when struggling in them. If you purchase such restraints in a dedicated kink store the edges will most likely be deburred which makes them less harmful but they still won’t be comfortable.

If you want more comfortable rubber restraints go for the latex ones. They are as soft as any rubber attire piece. Sadly the comfort is traded in for durability. The manufacturers try to deal with the issue by putting fabric tape between two layers of latex. I am definitely not the strongest sub in the world and a layer of fabric tape between two layers of 0.9mm of latex didn’t stop me from tearing them apart. I have talked to my local kink master mind at Demask in Dortmund and he told me that Kevlar as a fabric is really the only way to make durable simple rubber restraints. But Kevlar is a difficult material to work with as is rubber and latex overall. Thus the prices for rubber restraints are rather high compared to leather ones. However there is a big benefit with rubber restraints: unlike leather they can get a dirty and wet as you want them to be. So if you want to restrain yourself or your sub in the piss area (or nastier places…), I would advise using rubber or…


There a number of different neoprene variants out there all of which I have seen turned into restraints. Covering every one would be too much for this article so please check at Wikipedia which one works best for you. All kinds of neoprene are sturdier than rubber and can deal with dirty, wetness and can deal fairly well even with oils so they are the material you want to use in a gunge or oil scene.



Restraints consist of a body and depending on the closing mechanism also a strap.

The body is the part you wrap around the part of the sub’s body you want to restrain.

There are three ways to construct a body:

  1. One piece non-folded: In this case the body is made out of one piece of sturdy (and hopefully somewhat comfy) leather. When purchasing make sure that the edges are not sharp so there is no injury possibility.


    Trice Folded Leahter Restraint

  2. One piece folded: A folded one piece is made of a single piece of mostly a bit softer leather folded at least once so on one side you have a piping-like edge. The other side can feature a piping which is not really necessary when the leather is soft enough. Because a piping is always thicker than just a fold the restraint might look a bit imbalanced with piping just on one side. You will find a seam around the open side, good folded restraints also have a seam on the fold for added stability.
  3. Two pieces: Most leather restraints are a two piece construction with stiffer leather on top and softer leather (or fleece, fur, suede etc. as lining) on the inside. Between these layers padding can be added. Padding does not only make restraints more comfortable for long term wearing, they also can create pressure without cutting circulation when you tighten the restraints using a buckle (see below). Since you have two more or less stiff leather edges, good two piece restraints have a piping running around them to make them smoother. The advantage of piping is that it can be made in a different color this bringing a bit more color into your play bag or displaying your hanky.

Padding on a Leather Restraint

Straps, buckles, D-rings, etc. are mostly held in place by rivets holding down a leather strap (I have seen them sewed down but I strongly believe that just some thread holding down a d-ring a sub is pulling isn’t a good solution). With every construction but the one piece non-fold it is a personal or design decision if you want the counter part of the rivet touching your skin. Since the rivets are mostly made out of stainless steel there is no medical issue with them touching the skin, but the sensation at least at the beginning is a bit different since they are colder and harder than the surrounding leather. Because of that

most of the time the counterparts are put between two layers of leather or below the padding (a prominent example where it isn’t the case are the Mr S Fetters USA Padded Locking Restraints).



The most common method to close a restraint is using a strap with different types of clasps:

  1. Roller Buckle on a two piece Leather Restraint with Piping

    Roller Buckle on a two piece Leather Restraint with Piping

    Buckle: Probably the most traditional closing method that works like a belt. Good buckles have a roller buckle which makes pulling the strap through the buckle more easily. The hole spacing determines how accurately you can adjust the restraints. If the strap is made out of more than one piece of leather the holes should be reinforced by metal rings so that the pin won’t accidently harm the edges of the hole. This is not necessary if you use a locking restraints with eyelets because the “pin” is round and smooth (see below).

  2. Double D-ring: On the end of the strap there are two d-ringthrough which you thread the strap.The advantage of this kind of mechanism is that the restraints can be adjusted steplessly.
Bail closing with a 20mm padlock

Bail closing with a 20mm padlock

Not a clasp but still requiring a strap are bails. The strap has slots punched into it where you pull the bails through. In order to fix the restraints, you can use a carabiner or a padlock. Since the hole distance is mostly the same than with a buckle strap this kind of restraint is as tight as a buckle one but faster and locking. But you always need some hardware to close it.

If you don’t want to deal with a strap there are some restraints out there using (industry grade) Velcro. The advantage of Velcro is that it is easy to handle, steplessly adjustable and gives especially the newbie a sense of security (if something goes wrong, just pull it open).


Attachment Points

Once you have put the restraints on, you need to attach them to something in order to restrict the restraint person’s movements. I have seen restraints with just a leather loop sewed to the restraints. I am not really convinced that this will work because leather stretches out and as written under construction I don’t trust threads with holding down power subs. In my opinion the only real deal are D-rings. Most of them are made out of metal but I have seen ones made out of plastic. Because nowadays there are some amazing kinds of strong and durable kinds of plastic out there, I can’t really say anything against them. But I haven’t tried them out; if you have experience with restraints with plastic D-rings, please contact me.

D-Ring hold in place by rivets

D-Ring hold in place by rivets

The majority of metal D-rings are made out of stainless steel so they won’t break – if they are welded. In order to save money I have seen non-welded ones (on the bottom there is a little gap instead of a weldseam). If the force pulling on the D-ring is always directly opposite of the gap, this is no problem. But in most situation the force will pull on one or the other end thus pulling the D-ring open!

Regarding the number of D-rings that is really a personal choice. For “basic” restraints like wrist and ankle one D-ring per restraint is enough, but p.e. for a thigh restraint I would want at least three. General speaking more is better when it comes to the number of D-rings because it gives you more pervy options.



I know off two ways of building in a locking option into a restraint: the eyelet way and the Mr S way (I call it that way because I have only seen it used on restraints by Mr S). When using the eyelet way there is a small eyelet inside the pin of the buckle where you put a padlock through. The eyelet is usually big enough for a 20mm padlock.

Locking Buckle with Eyelet

Locking Buckle with Eyelet

The big downside of this method is that through the eyelet the pin gets fairly wide thus the holes in the strap have to be larger and can’t be reinforced by rivets. The last point is only a style thing: there is less metal on the restrains and the belt should be made out of a single piece of thick leather (s.o.). The first point is influencing play because due to the larger holes you can’t close the restraints in as fine pitches as with a normal pin buckle.

Mr S has found a solution for that: they take a normal pin buckle and put a stud with an eyelet behind the buckle. Once you have closed the strap in the buckle you fix the buckle in place over the stud and put a 20mm padlock inside the eyelet. Through this combination you can adjust the restraints finely and still lock it.


Types of restraints

Most people think of the leather cuffs for wrists and ankles when they hear restraints. But there are a lot of other cuffs out there so you can create a Segufix-like full body suspension: Cuffs for thighs, upper arms and belts for chest and hips. And for special purpose´s there are a ton of different special restraints out there like:

This list makes no claim of being complete because there are a lot of pervy minds out there creating new and exciting kink gear every day.


What restraints should I buy?

I have written this article to give a short (and probably incomplete) overview what aspects of a restraint impacts the play so you can make a decision what you want to look for when you shop around for restraints.

Double D-ring

Double D-ring

In my opinion even if you are a rope top you should at least have a pair of wrist and ankle restraints just in case you want to quickly suspend someone. If you are a sub you should own the perfect (and perfectly fitting!) restraints you want to have used on you so there is not disappointment when the top wants to restrain you and his don’t fit.

What specific restraints I would recommend really depends on your budget. You can get a pair of high quality leather restraints for around 50€ (like mine from McHurt), if you can deal with the uncertainty of the way the hides have been treated, pick up the ones from The Anubis Pack because you get entire basic set plus thigh restraints and collar for £56.If money isn’t really an issue I would recommend the locking restraints from Fetters USA from Mr S. I brought them over from the US for a friend of mine, they are great manufacturing and leather quality , are locking and have to D-rings, basically anything I would want in a pair of restraints but that comes with a price: $129.95 for the wrist restraints, $139.95 for the ankle restraints. What I would always recommend is going to your local kink store, try them out, get an experts opinion and buy what you feel comfortable with.


If you have any further question, you can always write me an e-mail, send me a tweet @ToyTorture or hit me up on Recon or PlanetRomeo at ToyTorture.

Anubis Pack 7 Piece Padded Leather Restraint Set

Vendor: Anubis Pack

From left to right: Wrist, Ankle, Thigh, Collar

From left to right: Wrist, Ankle, Thigh, Collar

From top to bottom: Wrist, Ankle, Collar, Thigh

From top to bottom: Wrist, Ankle, Collar, Thigh

I have treated myself to these restraints as a Christmas gift because I wanted a second pair of restraints and I wanted locking ones. Since a lot of my friends who are in the market for leather restraints or locking restraints this review is one by public demand. If you want a review of one of my toys, just send me a mail.


The set consists of a pair of wrist restraints, a pair of ankle restraints, a pair if thigh restraints and a collar which makes it the perfect combination for puppy play I believe. All restraints are made out of leather and come in black. It is their genuine design and they are made in a factory in Malaysia exclusively for the Anubis Pack and their distributors.

I have to say, these are one of the most complex and most interestingly constructed padded restraints I have come across. The padding is stored inside a cushion of soft leather with the edges folded around so there are no sharp edges or any irritations due to skin rubbing on the seam. This cushion is sewed to a thick, sturdy piece of leather. Interestingly the guys decided not to add the closing strap onto the top of the body but the body and cushion leather runs out into the strap with 2.5cm of hole spacing. On top of the body runs a strap which holds the D-rings (two for ankle and wrist restraints, three for the collar and a lavish four for the thigh restraints) and the buckle in place. All buckles are lockable but sadly not roll buckles. The restraints come in one size fits (really) all:

  • Collar restraints: 31cm to 47cm circumference
  • Wrist restraints: 10cm to 27cm circumference
  • Thigh restraints: 40cm to 57cm circumference
  • Ankle restraints: 14cm to 31cm circumference

Playing with them

Non roller locking buckle

Non roller locking buckle

These restraints feel SOLID! Due to the construction with up to six layers of leather they are stiffer than other restraints and will take a longer period to be broken in. Because the buckles don’t have a roll tightening the restraints can be a bit of an effort especially in the breaking-in period. But due to the soft and thick padding you can apply a fairly big amount of force when putting them on without hurting the sub. Through the unique strap construction and the one size fits all approach there is a fairly large unpadded area when using the holes for the wider setting. This is something I haven’t experienced with other restraints. But that being said I your sub has to be REALLY beefy and big in order to be forced to use these holes.

Ankle Restraint in smallest and largest hole

Ankle Restraint in smallest and largest hole

Once they have been put onto your sub they perform like every leather restraints but they really start to shine when it come to elaborate bondage scenes. Through the large number of D-rings you have many points you can attach to a bed, to a frame or to each other. A nice touch is that the strap running over the D-rings is not only hold down by rivets but seam is holding down the D-ring even tighter. I am skeptical how much of the pulling force is distributed to the rivets and thus how long the seam will withstand the pulling. But for now I like how little play the D-ring has. Because the seams on the lower side are well embedded inside the padding and the fold is sewed under the body of the restraints the chance of irritations during long term bondage is very low. The locking buckles don’t really add anything physical to the play but for many subs not being able to just pull the strap loose is a great mindfuck. You can lock the restraints using a standard 20mm pad lock.

Conslusion: Reliable restraint set for a great price
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Great value for money Great value for money Anubis Pack (Manufacturer) Apparently not available any more. Last known price £56
Thick padding Thick padding
Many D-rings Many D-rings
Locking Locking
Great value for money  

Mister B Padded Rubber Restraints


Last weekend I was in Karlsruhe at the Mister RubClub contest. It was a great event and I had loads of fun playing with a newbie. However, I learned that I am missing an important piece in my gear collection: Piss-proof restraints.

Leather doesn’t really like piss, but luckily there are a number of different materials out there: Neoprene, Velcro and rubber. Neoprene isn’t really my kink, it takes some effort to get the piss washed out of Velcro so that leaves rubber. Sadly rubber isn’t really made for hard playing. Most rubber restraints are either made out of the thick, hard kind of rubber with mostly sharp edges (in Germany we call them old tire rubber) or the softer one latex gear is made out of. That particular rubber looks great but when made out of two layers with fabric in between for reinforcement it is too weak – at least for my kind of BDSM. So finding the right kind of restraint for the piss AND pain pig in me is kind of hard.

Luckily Mister B offers just the right kind of restraints: On the outside is sturdy, reinforced rubber with rivets holding the D-rings in place, the belt loops are also reinforced with metal and on the inside there is thick padding beneath soft rubber which guarantees long term comfort when playing or even just wearing. Since they restraints come with different piping colors you can eve wear them as accessories or hankies. If I remember it correctly Mister B was also making matching collars reading “Piss Pig”, “Fuck Toy”, etc. but I can’t find them on their website anymore. You might need to ask your local Mister B dealer or contact them directly if you want one.

However, there is a downside with these restraints: The price. The pair of wrist restraints cost 105€, the pair of ankle restraints 112,50€. For the effort and difficulty of making theses restraints it is a good price point but sadly still too much to make me pick one up when I drool over them at their Berlin store or Dortmund’s in store boutique. So if anyone is looking for a belated Christmas or New Year present, please feel free to hit me up.

The Wonders of Playing with a Newbie

I spent the last weekend with friends who are part of the organizing committee of the Mr RubClub contest where Germany’s MIR contestant is chosen. It was a remarkable party due to two reasons.

First it was my first contest party. The contest itself was fun despite the under heated room. I have never been at a drag show because it didn’t interest me (until now?) but the MC who was a SPI member was hilarious so I might visit a drag show this year. The contest wasn’t as interactive and complex as the ones in the US, it is basically just a series of short films where the candidates present themselves and their relation to the community and afterwards everybody can cast their vote. However, I have rarely felt such an intense sense of connection within and with the kinky and especially the rubber community. It was an awesome experience.

Second and more important was the experience of playing with a person fairly new to BDSM. I was introduced to him on PlanetRomeo prior to the party through a mutual friend. He was cute but I wasn’t really in the mood for playing. He was feeling subbie and in Germany most of the fetish community events are more about fucking than BDSM with everything that goes along with it (p.e. difficult access to toys stored at the checkroom, strange people touching you while playing, etc.). But he and my friend convinced me to take some toys with me after all. After the contest was done, I grabbed my little toy bag, took him to the playroom, bound his hands behind his back, attached two silicone loops around his balls and dick and attached them to my ET232. What followed afterwards was an incredible experience. Not only did he respond really well (he maxed my estim box on High Frequency, something I have not managed yet which was incredible hot) but I was struck by the sense of wonder, excitement and enthusiasm he was showing. The glowing in the eyes, the subtle intensifying of his breathing turning into moaning when I turned up the intensity, teaching him how to breathe and work his way through the pain, resulting into the changing of his face expression from agony to ecstasy. It was more rewarding and satisfying than some session I have with an experienced pain pig when the inner sadist comes through wanting my subs to wiggle and scream as much as they can. After he had enough you could really see the gratefulness in his eyes and the involuntary smile of endorphins rushing through his body as soon as the box was turned off.

After we grabbed a drink he was so curious about the BDSM scene, how stuff works, what can, should and mustn’t be done. And the entire 5 hour bus drive home the next day we were texting forth and back allaying his thirst for knowledge. The situation was kind of bizarre to me: I have ever thought of myself as a more or less experienced “newbie” to the scene having only been really active for about three years and there I was helping someone else discover the great world and wonders of BDSM. From what and how he is asking I am pretty sure he will become an awesome Kinkster, a greedy pain pig and maybe even a good top.

I have to admit that I am mostly trying to play with more or less experienced kinksters because the play is mostly easier and more intense – and I believe at least some people in the community feel the same way. But all it took was about an hour of my time to spark the fire in ones heart and what I got back was emotionally so rewarding and in the long term might enrich our community with another hot, creative and perverted fucker. So please see this short piece as an encouragement for a new year’s resolution: The next time you see someone standing shyly in the corner of a leather bar or someone with now experiences who just wants to try messages you, sacrifice a bit of your time and give him a glimpse into our world. You will probably be rewarded with something way more satisfying than just a great scene.

Don’t Inject Poppers!

Once in a while I get questions I think/ fear others might have and for the better for all kinksters I decide to post my reply publically. This poppers question is one of them:


I really like poppers, it helps me take bigger things up my hole but the effect of the poppers is only so short-lived. Would it help to inject the poppers maybe directly into my anus to maximize the effect?

Short answer: No, it is even dangerous!

Long answer: Poppers is caustic, especially in delicate areas like muscous membranes (p.e. in your nose). There have been reports of death when swallowed. When you inject it directly into a muscle you “only” will win a trip to the emergency room and sever burns inside your muscles.  Injected into a vein it will be leathal! If you want to know more about poppers, listen to this great short episode of the NoSafeWord Show.

But there are a number of other options you can use in order to prepare your hole for some intense action:

  1.  Anal relaxation sprays: A combination of caring and relaxing botanicals like lavender or rosemary is sprayed on the anus and after a short time your anus will find putting stuff into yojr ass more easily. There are a number of different products on the market and not everyone works as well for everyone like poppers. Try some out. Sadly they are rather expensive.
  2. Special lube: There are numbening lubes out there which relax your anus and make it less sensitive so you can apply a bit (!) more force when pushing things inside your hole. My friend Drewlion developed a special lube also using botanicals like the sprays to facilitate relaxing. Since he uses essential oils they are technically not (latex) condom/ glove safe.
  3. Local anesthetics: In order to insert catheres or other medical device into untrained holes local anesthetics like Lidocain are used. They come in gel or spray forn and work great but have the downside that they will affect your feeling so the insertion sensation will be somewhat between different to nonexisting. More importantly: You will probably not feel if something goes wrong so be extra careful!
  4. „Poppers“ containing balm: Another medicine you can use are balms used to tread anal fissures. They contain Glyceryl trinitrate p.e., will relax your hole and will make you a bit dizzy like with a small poppers rush.

If you don’t want to apply anything to your hole and toys, hypnosis and self-suggestion can help loosening up your hole. You see, there are a lot of possibilities out there to make the anus extra soft but doing something very bad with poppers.