Pig Play Toys: Nose Hooks & Mouth Opener

Pig Play Mouth & Nose Toys

It’s beginning to look a lot like Pigmas
Toy for every hoe
But the prettiest sight to see is the piggy that will be
Choking on a pole

 

Merry Pigmas kinksters and perverts! It’s a holiday created by gays to celebrate that we survived yet another year of holidays among family and friends who have a hard time understanding our lifes. It’s a day to ring out the old year with sexy debaucheries.

The Classic Nose Hook

Pig play has been gaining some traction in the past year. There are a few toys out there associated with this kind of play. Which day of the year would be better to take a look at a couple of these particular and perverted toys than today?

Classic Nose Hook from Regulation (£ 19.99)

As the name already implies the classic nose hook is probably the most basic and iconic toy in pig play. 5mm grade stainless steel wire is bend into u-shape. The body has a height of 51mm and the hooks going into the nose are 16mm long. The clearance between the hooks is 9mm and 10mm between the hooks and the body. The ends of the hooks are well rounded and don’t have any sharp edges.

The Rounded Ends of the Nose Hook

In order to pull the nose back to get that snout look perverts into pig play dig, threat a piece of rope or tension strap through the apex of the body, pull it back over the head of sub’s head and attach it to a collar, harness or whatever bondage layout you want to incorporate it into. The more you pull, the more stress bondage it becomes. In stress positions, please be careful, the nose tissue is delicate and too much draft can result in injuries.

To call the hook comfortable would be an overstatement. But the long hooks distribute the draft a bit more evenly even though the tips dig a bit into the nose. What on a comfort level sets this hook apart from others I have tried is the small fillet. The hooks are so close together that they comfortably fit even tiny noses. Two of the hooks can also be used to pull the corners of the mouth apart for pathetic drooley face. Some pig players like to add a hook for each nostril to really pull the nose apart. For this the hook is actually too wide for most noses. Since the stainless steel wire is really rigid, you need heavy duty tools to bend the hooks tighter together.

The Hook of the Nose Hook Strap

Nose Hook with Strap from Regulation (£ 24.99)

If you are like me and are not good with rope, the nose hook with strap might look attractive. The nose hook is a piece of 4.5mm thick metal wire bend into u shape. The ends are slightly bent upwards in a sharp angle to go into the nose. To finish the otherwise sharp ends of the hook, a 6mm metal ball is soldered into the end. The clearance between the balls is about 12mm. Since one of my balls is off center on my version, I am pretty sure that the distance can vary one to two millimeters.

Onto the hook a 55cm long strap of 15mm wide bridle leather is riveted. The edges are not burnished or deburred so it is far from the quality of products made by Regulation; you can feel that this toy was purchased from an Asian manufacturer. Every 40mm the strap is decorated with a rivet. At the end a key ring is riveted onto which a small die casting swivel carabiner is attached.

Keyring with Swivel Carabiner

While the overall production quality of the toy might not be high end and far from the toys Regulation makes themselves, it is a functional. The spheres are the end of the nose hook are actually a bit more comfortable because they distribute the draft more evenly.

 

However, getting tension onto the hook is actually a challenge. Among my testees the length of the lead was too long for attaching to a collar, too short for attaching it to a harness. There are probably people out there where it fits perfectly. But in my sample of ten testees with very broad body types it didn’t fit. I would have wished for a double d-ring closure mechanism to shorten the leash to fit the piggy’s physique and play situation.

The Adjustment Screws to Fix the Teeth Retainer

Inspection Gag from Regulation (£ 24.79)

The body of this pig toy is a slightly oval, slightly convex ring out of sturdy polymer with internal dimensions of 75x67mm. At the top are 22mm long and 9mm apart pins covered with hoods which are supposed to go into the mouth. At the bottom is a 70mm long and 23mm wide grip. It houses a 12mm wide piece of L-shaped stainless steel. This sheet goes into the mouth and pulls the teeth on the lower jaw down. A small spring pulls it down for easy adjustment. Since the spring is far from strong enough to keep the strong jaw muscles in check, there is a screw to fix the strap in place.

In order to close the mouth, humans need to move the lower jaw. If the sub does this, he pushes the toy into the nose. Of course the screw only has so much power but closing the mouth is almost impossible and certainly very painful, making this toy very effective keep the mouth open. Even on a cooperative sub, the pins pins pushing into the nose will lead to a very piggy and somewhat pathetic look of the sub.

The Pins for Nose Fixation

The gag allows for the sub’s mouth to be opened to the max, far wider than a spider gag or ring gag would allow. The inspection gag is smaller and nimbler than a Jennings Jaw clamp and adds a more piggy look. So it is in the middle ground of effectiveness and handiness. For face fucking and deep throating the gag works well because it moves a bit and thus is more comfortable for the top. Just make sure you don’t injure the nose when vigorously fucking. One of my testee tops preferred this toy for manual aka dildo-suppported face fuck training. The piggy look of the stretched nostrils added to the drooling of the sub.

For forced rimming this gag is medium effective. Yes, the mouth is forced open but that tongue can retreat in the back of the mouth or block to opening whatever is opportune in the scene. Forced swallowing is okish. Swallowing with an open mouth is difficult and you have to pinch the nose shut for really force which is a but undercut by the pins. So forced drinking has a little water boarding to it.

The Mouth Clamp all opened up

Mouth Gag Clamp from Regulation (£ 34.70)

The body of this gag is still O-ring with 45mm internal diameter. It features little wings on the side onto which threaded rods are soldered. On these rods ride half-circles with wings. There movement is limited by nuts which ultimately screw the movable parts towards the O-ring. The toy is well made out of solid steel without sharp edges. So there are no unintentional injuries even in the delicate corners of the mouth – if the sub can easily open his mouth far enough…

Technically the mouth gag clamp is not a gag but a clamp. It is designed to put the lips around the O-ring and then lock them in place. Depending on the force this just keeps the lips open or induces quite a lot of pain in an otherwise not for pain play used body area. Even when the sub is a masochist, be careful not to bruise the lips as they are a delicate body are.

The Adjustment Mechanism of the Mouth Clamp

In order to put the lips around the O-ring the sub more or less has to open his mouth. Closing it will pull painfully on the lips. But since only the lips keep the mouth open, the effectiveness as a gag is limited. So this toy requires some cooperation of the sub. The only way of forcing his jaws open is grabbing them with your hand. This is a bit cumbersome because the gag is in the way of the palm. Yet the small opening is large enough to pour liquids and small solids into the mouth – if the bottom doesn’t block the opening with his tongue. For forced rimming this toy is not really made. The wide, bulky construction in top of the mouth keeps the bottom from really getting into the crack. He would need a REALLY long tongue to get into your anus.

Straight friends a told me that this clamp can also be used to forcefully keep a woman’s labia opened. The internal diameter of 45mm is not generous so I am not sure how comfortable a top could use this toy for penetration. If you play with a vagina/ bonus or front hole user and have other applications for this toy in this region, please write me!

Slot Tawse & Bullseye Wooden Paddle

Bullseye & Slot Tawse Wooden Paddle

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

Both paddles are made out of a medium brown, light wood which has been sanded and oiled so there are not splinters. The surface still has some noticeable grain left for a natural texture. Both paddles are fairly light. Sadly I forgot the note with the exact numbers on my desk home and my mother’s kitchen scale is not accurate enough for a measurement. I will fill in the blanks once home from Christmas vacation.

The Bullseye is made out of single piece of 17mm thick wood. The edge running around the paddle had been nicely rounded. The paddle’s circular hitting surface has a diameter of 130mm. It features one central hole with 25mm diameter and four adjacent ones with 20mm diameter. The head flows into a 190mm long handle which tapers slightly towards the end for a secure and comfortable grip. At the bottom a leather loop is threaded through a hole.

The Sandwich Handle of the Slot Tawse with the Leather Loop in the Back

The basis of the Slot Tawse on the other hand is a 12mm thick blade. Its head measures 95x280mm and features hard but not sharp edges. The 145mm long tapering handle is reinforced with a layer of wood on each sides bringing the thickness up to 25mm. It also adds round edges for a more comfortable grip. In middle of the hitting surface there are two 20x90mm holes (aka slots) cut behind each other. Also the Slot Tawse is equipped with a leather loop. Both toys’ loops are long enough to secure the toy around the top’s wrist.

Playing with the Bullseye and Slot Tawse

Being light paddles, the pain sensation of both lean toward sting.  This is supported by the design. Both the holes and the slots allow air which would otherwise be trapped between the hitting surface and the sub’s body to escape. So there is no dampening air cushion how little its effect might be. Being light the intensity can luckily be adjusted finely. A light tapping will not cause too much pain. However, if you hit full throttle, both paddles will sting like hell!

The Head of the Bullseye

The Bullseye is a surprisingly beginner-friendly paddle. The ergonomic handle makes it easy to grip and its compact shape easy to control. The head is small enough to target individual ass cheeks or thighs even with bad aim or arm control. More experienced players can even use it for ball slapping if the bottom can spread his legs far enough. If you hit with only little force, the Bullseye can be used for warm-up if the bottom prefers stingy warm-up.

The Slot Tawse plays a completely different game! The first noticeable attribute is that the blade like the Bullseye’s head has no give. So unlike a leather toy 100% of kinetic energy is transformed into pain on the bottom body. The blade it large enough to comfortably hit both ass cheeks at the same time. Focused hits with just the end are possible. But the hard edge will add even more sting.

The Hard Edge on the Slot Tawse

While the Bullseyes is a bit head-heavy, the Slot Tawse is really well balanced so you don’t tired your wrist when hitting with it. The sanding and oiling has been done painstakingly so the texture you feel when running your finger tips over the toys does not transform into abrasive pain.

Caution is in order when playing heavily with this toy: Wood is a higher maintenance material than rubber and aluminum. It is hard to sanitize because it absorbs a bit of the tissue fluid and since it has no clear coating, blood will stain it. So if you play really hard, do not only spray a sanitizer on it but let it lay in the sun for a few days before using it on someone else (alternative: use a UV sanitizer some of you might have bought during the Covid crisis). To keep the paddle as beautiful as it is, I recommend oiling it with olive oil (or a wood oil of your choice) every 6 to 12 months depending on how often you use it. This might alter the wood color and give the toy patina but ultimately it will turn a random paddle into YOUR paddle.

The Wood’s Grain

That being said at least for me the feeling of warm, grainy wood in the hand makes up for this work. The handle of the Bullseye feels and fits like worry stone. For me as a top there is something sensual in holding a beautiful made, open-grain piece of wood in my hand and playing with it. If you make your sub kiss the toy before applying it, he will be able to smell a faint hint of wood.

Conclusion: Beautifully made wooden paddle for beginners and pain pigs.  
Pros Cons Where to get Price  
Despite being made out of unforgiving wood, Bullseye can be used for warmup Being made out of wood difficult to clean and sanitize Regulation Bullseye £39.99
Slot Tawse £39.99
Excellent overall quality and fell
Leather loop for easy storage

Wrist to Ball Restraint

The Mr S Wrist to Ball Restraint

Vendor: Mr S

Construction

Five individual pieces form this restraint setup. Literally the central element is 31mm wide piece of the typical Mr S soft yet sturdy bridle leather which is burnished and deburred. It is folded several times and riveted to house stainless steel D-rings on both ends. They are 38mm wide and 27mm high and have a wire strength of 6mm so they are really heavy duty! In the middle sits a locking pin.

By threading  the belt through the D-rings, this leather bars connects two cuff style wrist restraints. They are not padded but lined with soft garment leather for a bit more restrictive feeling. The belt is closed with roller buckles and houses a D-ring between two rivets. The restraints are functional and effective, covering a range of wrist circumference form 11cm to 22cm. Depending on how big the sub’s wrist are, you might be able to push the ends of the cuff closing belt over the locking pin to lock the restraints. The roller buckles are wider than the width of the D-ring. This means they “firmly” connected to the connector and cannot be exchange for different, for example padded ones or bondage mitts.

The Scrotum Strap

The locking pin in the middle of the connection bar is the anchor point for a 24cm long and 1.9cm wide strap of bridle leather. It’s bottom is lined with garment leather for a total width of 2.5cm. At the top eight holes for attaching the strap to the locking pin are punched. At the bottom another locking pin is riveted to the strap. It is the anchor point for 35.5cm long and 1.9cm wide piece of extra soft, unlined bridle leather. There is one hole punched at one end and nine at the other. This strap is for attaching the restraint setup to the scrotum and covers a ball neck circumference from a already surprisingly large 15cm to massive, (saline-)pumped 30cm.

The Roller Buckle

To connect all straps, the Wrist to Ball Restaint comes with two small keyed alike Master padlocks. If you already have a keyed alike padlock system for your play space, you can use your pad lock with up to 3.5mm shale wire strength.

Playing with the Wrist to Ball Restaint

The primary purpose of this toy is to create a physical feedback loop between the hands and the balls. The human body usually try to “work out” pain sensation through muscle movement. So regardless of what you are doing to the sub as soon as he tries to move his arms to help processing the sensation his balls will move. The shorter the connection strap, the stronger to force transmition. This is especially devious if the balls are pre-bruised so hurt from movement of when you line the scrotum strap with a (dull) pin strap). I found that particularly fun in combination with CBT or e-stim around the balls. Even more so when you hang a movement sensitive e-stim device from the padlock on the scrotum strap.

The Connector

Of course, this toy also works as a piece of bondage gear without additionally induced sensations. The most basic use is to use it as simple handcuffs without the scrotum part. The connector is not as rigid as a metal on like on Hiatts 840 handcuffs but has less slack and torsional stiffness than carabiners or rope. The connector allows the cuffs to be grabbed easily and forcefully (just make sure the locking pin is between your fingers) so you can handle and direct the sub.

When you include the scrotum setup, the simplest bondage layout is to keep the sub’s arms down. Handily the restraint can be worn below cloths. More demanding is incorporating it into any stress bondage position and watch him try to get into himself into a somewhat comfortable position while he is tugging on his balls. Once the sub has found a somewhat comfortable position, smack his balls to encourage some movement.

The Cuffs in the Smallest and LargestSetting

Putting the restraints on is easy: First put the wrists of the sub either in front or behind his body and fetter them either with the connector’s locking pin either facing towards or away from the body (yes, each of the four combinations has a different effect). Then Tie the scrotum strap around the balls neck, push the single hole of the connection strap over it and close using a padlock. Finally, adjust the tightness of the tug with the length of the connection strap and push the corresponding hole over the connector’s locking pin. Having put the process into words makes it sound more complicated than it actually is. Since I figured out how to use the individual elements, it takes me less than a minute to fetter a sub completely.

The Riveted D-Rings on the Cuff and Connector

When the locking pin is facing the body, there is a little bit more slack in the connection strap so less force is transmitted. For more intense play, let the locking pin face away from the sub’s body. The restraint position has a bit stronger effect. Behind the body is the more traditional position. Due to the elbows being a bit twisted and stretched, there is less way for them to act out things so again it is more intense. Also, the balls are prominently tugged back for easier targeting. However, this way the connection strap covers the anus. If you want to fuck your bottom hard, put the restraint in front of the body. Depending on the sub’s physiology, this even works in doggystyle. For ball torture this position works only limited because the dick is in the way. But if you make a bit of stress bondage out of it by pulling the arms up using the D-rings on the cuffs, you get a nice, strong balls tugging again. Just be careful not to overdo it because the wrist cuffs are not made for suspension bondage!

Conslusion: Unique and effective combination of CBT and bondage.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Interesting bondage layouts possible Scrotum Strap could use more holes for smaller balls Mr S Leather $139.95
Lockable
D-rings on cuffs Restraints are not padded and cannot be exchanged
Extrem high build and manufacturing quality

Fetters Tight Leather Hood

The Fetters Tight Leather Hood

Vendor: Regulation

Making a good hood is an art not mastered by many! This is my first piece of headgear from Fetters. So I was curious if it could live up to the same level of quality I know from their other leather gear.

Construction

The Tight Leather Hood is a four panel hood made out of thick garment leather. The leather is soft and smells rich and delicious just like high quality leather gear should be. Through seams and molding the hood follows the shape of the human head. Below the nose are two small grommets which are large enough for easy breathing even in heavy scenes. The mouth part is reinforced with another piece of leather so it stays in shape over time.

The Nose Grommets and Pin-Hole Eyes

On the back from the neck to almost all the way up to the crown runs a piece of thin nylon rope through cinch rings. They are high quality and sturdy so they can withstand a lot of force when lacing the head tightly and/ or forcefully. A leather wedge below the lacing keeps the hair from getting caught in the lacing. Regardless if you choose the hood to be lined with leather or not, the wedge will always be an unlined, single layer piece of leather.

Besides the leather lining there are several customizing options how the eyes and nose opening are designed. The hood can be outfitted with a snap-on blindfold, a mouth cover (optionally with a pecker gag) and a locking collar. The range of sizes is quite large in theory, ranging up to a collar size of 20’’. But the lower end is at 14’’ circumference which especially for petit subs and ladies might still be too wide.

The Lacing on the Back for a Snug Fit

Playing with the Tight Leather Hood

As the name suggests, this hood tightly wraps around the head and follows the contours of the face without being uncomfortable.  Since the lacing goes up all the way to almost the crown, its tightness can be locally adjusted so the hood can accommodate different head shapes and sizes. Being made out of soft yet thick garment leather you really get the feeling of being encapsulated in it. For an even stronger leather feeling I highly recommend the leather lining. It is hard to put the difference into words but the feeling of the lined hood tightening around the head is more compact, more intense. While the double layer of leather shields the bottom a bit from the surroundings a medium-light touch is still felt.

To my astonishment the fit of this hood is very good despite being only made out of basically four panels! Even the nose section which is often a problem fit most testees well, regardless of the nose was large, wide or pointy. As with every piece of leather gear, it will adapt to the wearer over time so if the nose does not fit perfectly right away, wear the hood over extended periods of time and sweat and warmth would mold this section into shape.

Detail of the Four-Panel Construction

The level of gimpdom is determined by the features chosen. There is not really much to say about the open and no eyes options. The pin-holes of this eye option are 8mm apart. This is just enough for most people to still see almost unobscured. You can add a blindfold which is attached using snap buttons. This of course distracts a bit the clean, smooth gimp look of the hood. Despite being made out of soft leather there is a small gap between the blindfold and the mask itself. This gap is not wide enough for the bottom to see anything but some stray light reaches the eye. For a 100% block-out, I recommend a dedicated blindfold.

The open mouth can also be covered either by just but a patch of leather of a pecker gag. The snap buttons are strong enough to keep the gag locked inside the sub’s mouth even when he tried to push it out with force. The gag option is only available for the round mouth.

The round mouth has a diameter of 45mm. This is large enough to place even a large gag inside. But if you are well endowed it will probably be too small for your dick. Even when your dick is smaller, this hood is not really made for vigorous face fucking. The cutout is just the bare leather edge and not finished with piping. Due to the reinforcement of the mouth part, the edge is stiff. Over time it will get softer but especially in the beginning you can get a bit of leather burn if you fuck too quickly.

The Unfinished Mouth Opening

For the slot mouth I have gotten only second hand opinions. According to a sub from the UK, once the hood is broken in well, you can push a gag through it. But for a dick it is to narrow and uncomfortable.

The final option is the lockable collar. This only makes sense when you want a cleanish look (as clean as it gets with an attached lockable collar). Neither any of the friends who own this hood nor me did choose it because it limits what you can do with the hood. If your sub or you are collared, you probably already have a collar you want to wear with this hood. A looser chain collar might work, but leather collars are too bulky. Since the leather is so soft, this hood even works with a posture or a choking collar. So my advice is not to add the collar just to stay flexible of what you can do with this hood.

Conclusion: Highly customizable, high quality, tightly fitting leather hood.
Pros Cons Where to get Price
Tight yet comfortable fit Edges of the mouth (and eyes) are not treated/ finished Regulation £275 + options
Many customizing options
High quality leather & build quality
Very sturdy lacing with leather hair guard

Agitation Collar

The Mako & Tiger 2“ Agitation Collar

Vendor: Mako & Tiger

Design

What makes this collar stick out that it’s HEAVY! Without the lock it weights slightly over 600g. This is (thin) metal collar territory! The weight comes from its heavy duty construction: In the middle of this multi-layer construction is the collar itself, a piece of bridle leather is lined with firm yet comfortable padding which is covered with garment leather.  The garment leather comes in black, red or blue. The piping of the lining is slightly wider than the bridle leather so even when the collar is fastened tightly, the unburnished edges don’t scratch the skin. Below the lining two screws (not rivets!) each hold the flaps in place which house the massive, burnished steel roller buckles and guiding loops for the belt.  The belt surrounding the collar is made out of two layers 3.5mm thick bridle leather. The two ends of the belt are punched with two rows of three holes each.

The D-Ring with the Branded Protective Flap

In the center of the belt which marks the back of the collar a leather flap embossed with Mako & Tiger’s paw brand sign is sewed. It covers the thick 6mm thick stainless steel D-ring which is 45mm wide and 32mm deep.

What makes this collar an agitation collar is the grip what is sewed onto the back of the belt. It is as wide as the belt and in the middle also double-layered. When I first showed my testees this collar they are a bit puzzled that it was sewed and not riveted/ screwed onto the belt as a seam for them meant something that could come apart. The stitching is so high quality, the yarn to thick and strong that none had fears that things would come apart, even with the most unruly, agitating subs!

The Supplied Padlock locking the Agitation Collar

For locking the collar, there are two options: The more elegant one is the Segufix lock. On this version the belt holes are pushed over a Segufix lock pin and shackled with a standard Segufix lock. But of course any sub with access to a strong magnet and a free hand can undo this. More secure and heavy looking is order this collar without the pin. Then you pull the shackle of a padlock through both belt ends and close it. This way the collar is most definitively secured around the slave’s neck and you can use your keyed-alike padlock set you already have in place in your dungeon. But don’t lose the key! The thick, multi-layer design makes cutting through the collar with safety sheers or emergency knifes almost impossible. If you don’t have a key-aliked padlock system in your playspace,

The Sewed on Multi-Layered Grip

The collar also comes in two sizes: 50mm/ 2’’ width which I have or 75mm/ 3’’ which can double as a posture collar! When choosing the collar width, please be realistic. Because of the many layers of thick leather, it takes forever to break this collar in and it will never get as flexible as a “normal” bondage collar from Mr S for example. So if it fits too tightly between shoulders and chin, the unburnished edges of the stiff leather can scratch a bit, not to talk about the metal trim of the buckles.  When ordering the collar, you have to supply a neck circumference. There is some leeway up and down this sizing so it fits somewhat smaller and bigger collar sizes. But in order to work well, the fit should be good. So more than any other piece of bondage gear, this is really something the sub should own for a perfect fit instead of a dom keeping in his playroom as a one-size fits all. If you want to do the latter, 16’’ is the most common collar size. Smaller twinks have around 14½’’, big bears around 17’’.

 

One of the Two Roller Buckles

Playing with the Agitation Collar

 

Like many BDSM toys, agitation collars come from the vanilla world. They were originally designed to train wild puppies or control sharp dogs – the bio not the fetish kind.

Even “just” the 50mm version has an air of heavy duty around it! The many layers of thick leather, the big, burnished roller buckles, the big padlock dangling in the front (or the – ideally – red Segufix lock cap) creates an atmosphere of seriousness. This is also enhanced by the way it is fettered around the subs neck: Since the belts meet in the front, a kneeling slave has to look up to his master while he adjusts the two buckles so it sits right in the middle of the neck and ultimately locks the collar. Like with all lockable gear, hearing the click of the lock adds a lot of psychological momentum. This is even enhanced when during play the dandling lock hits the sternum. If you want to facilitate that, buy a long-shackled lock with a thinner wire so it moves around more. If you want to mark you dog visibly, you have to lock the dog tag also shackle because there is no D-ring on the front.

Example of the Many Bridle Leather Layers

Besides humiliating and restricting the neck movement through the collar, the piece de résistance  is the grip on the back. It really allows to – somewhat – comfortably grab the neck of the sub – either holding him back or drag him towards where he has to be (like a hole to rim or a dick to suck…). The collar distributes the pulling force quite evenly. Of course, it is felt strongly but this Agitation Collar is the most comfortable and thus safest one I have experienced so far. This of course also applies for attaching a leash to the D-ring at the back. So if you have an unruly puppy that wants to jump at people, keeping him on a short leash works well with this collar. Despite being so thick and stiff, the collar can be worn comfortable over extended periods of time.

The Double-Layered Grip to Pull or Hold the Slave

The “somewhat comfortable” is directed towards the dom. Being made out of STIFF bridle leather, the grip is not really comfortable to grab with its unburnished and undeburred edges. I tried to soften mine using neatsfoot oil but had limited success. Over time it will get a bit more broken in, but since it is double-layered at the center, it can only get so soft. At least the sharp edges are not a problem if you like me play almost always (leather) gloved as a top. A bigger issue is the width, especially on the 3’’ wide version: The top has to grab a 75mm wide, not really compressing piece of leather. For guys with smaller hands this is almost impossible. I have already given feedback to Mako & Tiger and maybe in the future there will be an about 1’’ wide bridle leather grip sheathed with garment leather. I assume especially female (pro)doms would appreciate a nimbler handle.

Conclusion: Heavy & heavy duty collar with grip to control unruly slaves!
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Grip & D-ring to pull & hold back the slave securely & safely Grip is somewhat uncomfortable 2’’ Wide Version $350
3’’ Wide Version $550
Great craftsmanship
Very heavy duty feel
Lockable

Breathing System – Capsule Injector

Vendor: VAST

Important Security Information

As hot and horny breath play is, NEVER DO IT ALONE OR BY YOURSELF! Every year we lose several members of the kink community to self breath play. No matter how much you think you have figured out the safety and falls backs, there is always a slight and sadly often lethal chance of it failing.

This especially applies to playing with inhalants like poppers or N2O/ laughing gas.

If you are curious about breath play, look for experienced partners to introduce you to this kink and its intricacies. Please just never do it alone!

The VAST Breathing System Capsule Injector

After publishing my review of the Basis of the VAST Breathing System (link to review), I have gotten a couple of questions if the Capsule Injector also works with other breath play setups. In short, yes of course. For the long answer and because if you connect it directly to a gas mask you need to follow a little piece of advice, I decided give this toy a separate review.

Construction

The center of the Capsule Injector is a small 3D printed t-piece. On one side a 6l rubber breathing bag is attached, opposite of it a 50mm long gas mask hose ends in a GM40 port. Perpendicular to these things a black anodized aluminum cartridge holder for standard kitchen usage N2O cartridges is attached.

The Packaging of the Capsule Injector (comes without cartridges)

The toy comes in a beautiful heat-embossed wooden box outfitted with cut-out foam to house the toy. There are also holes for 24 cartridges so you can store them along the toy. Along with the toy itself comes a GM40 screw-on adaptor for attaching the Capsule Injector to 20mm professional breathing system tubes used in hospitals for example.

Playing with the Capsule Injector

Just by itself the Capsule Injector works as a standard 6l re-breathing bag. Of course this only works in a closed system in which you breathe in and out of the same port. Most gas masks have separate inlets and outlets which are sealed by back pressure valves. So in order to use a re-breathing bag, you need to modify them. For the most common gas mask types like the UDSSR GP-5 (commonly known as the “Russian gas mask”), AVON S10 or FM12 you can easily find guides online.

The GM40-to-20mm-Pro-Breathing-System-Adaptor

This closed-circuit breathing is also a necessity for N2O play. It gets absorbed quite slowly so it needs to rebreathed several times. Working with the capsules originally designed to power kitchen whipping siphons is usually a bit cumbersome. The Capsule Injector makes it very easy: You unscrew the bottom of the cartridge holder, put the cartridge in, screw it tightly and the gas gets released.

The Capsule Injector attached to a FM12 by a VAST Rebreather

If you are attaching the Capsule Injector directly to the gas mask or use a setup without a valve between the injector and the breathing mask, a word of warning: The pressure inside the capsule is quite high and once opened it will rush inside the bag, the tubes and also the breathing mask. This sudden increase in pressure can damage the lungs. So when popping the capsule, the bottoms mouth should be shut and he should be exhaling through his nose. This is not an optimal method but at least a bit safer. A slightly less expensive valve alternative to the VAST Rebreather (for example if you want to play with a modified Russian gas mask which currently does not work with the Rebreather) is the VAST Breathing Switch for 129€. With this you can simply switch between clean air and the Capsule Injector so all the capsule pressure goes into the bag from where it can be rebreathed safely.

A common point of criticism in the messages post the review was that the breathing bag is firmly connected to the cartridge holder instead of using a GM40 port. That way the 6l rebreathing bag could be exchanged for a smaller rebreathing bag. The 6l bag is actually necessary because one N2O capsule holds about 6l of gas. Smaller volumes would increase the pressure inside the system (see above). So when playing with N2O you are kind of stuck with 6l. If you want smaller bags, you have to pre-fill them externally where the access gas can escape before attaching the bag to the setup directly which again is a cumbersome process.

Conclusion: Innovative special purpose restraint with practical shortcoming.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Easy and safe handling of N2O play Needs separate shut-off valve in order work 100% safe VAST 119€
Comes with adaptor for professional breathing system
Cleverly designed and nice looking packaing

New Slubb Power Unit

The New Slubb Power Unit

Vendor: Slubb

When Slubb launched their product, I am probably one of the first guys who got and then reviewed their innovative toy. Having focused on developing the milking attachment itself, they first sold it with an Einhell oscillating multi-tool (which I reviewed in the original test). Now they introduced their own power unit which I am going to take a look at here – exactly two years afterI reviewed  the original unit.

Design

The new power unit comes in nicely branded box (which I intended to safe for pictures but misplaced…). Inside is the power unit, the lithium ion battery, the charger, a hex key for installing the Slubb and two manuals. One for the machine used as an actual power tool (probably included for legal reasons) and as a power unit for the Slubb.

The new Power Controll Dial

At 280mm overall length and roughly measuring 51x55mm at the point where you hold the toy, it is around the standard size of an oscillating multi-tool and about the same size as the Einhell predecessor. It is comfortable to grip for people with medium sized hands and upwards. Petit hands will have to invest some effort.

At 953g ready-to-play it is a whopping 123g heavier than the Einhell. If you put the power unit into a stand (like a Manfrotto Superclamp or a bicycle repair holder) this doesn’t matter. There is also a screw in the bottom of the head you can use to attach the unit to a holder. But if you manually move it up and down the dick for a stroking stimulation, the wrist can get tired quickly! At least if you edge and milk for hours like me…

The Heavy Duty Metal Head

The head of the unit is made out of die-cast aluminum. This makes it a bit head-heavy but also gives it a very quality feel! If it falls, it will not get damaged easily!

On the old Einhell unit a screw in the easy-to-turn power dial prevented you from going to too high settings. On this unit the power dial is a bit harder to turn. This is a great improvement because you can now more finely and slowly adjust the intensity. At 3° oscillation angle and a theoretically oscillation frequency between 5,000 and 19,000 oscillations per minute the unit is a bit more powerful than the old one. Without a limiter, you can turn the power up all to 6 bit my recommendation is to stay below 3 with is rough 10,000 oscillations per minute. Anything higher feels uncomfortable and requires lots all well applied lube.

Depending on the intensity, it can get quite loud. Around setting 3 I got 82db which considerably louder than the old Einhell. Bit since the old unit was not quite by any standard, I don’t really complain. If you want a “quite” unit, you have to enter professional spheres with big three digit price tags. The intensity also determines how long the machine runs. I got around on hour of play out of it with a factory new battery and the battery takes an hour to charge.

The Mounting of the Slubb to the Power Unit

Playing with the Slubb

In the handling, nothing has changed compared to the old model: Once it is attached to the power unit, adjust the loop that is it one hole larger than the circumference of the dick, apply ample silicone lube on the rubber strap and the dick and start the engines. There is no specific place where to apply the Slubb. The sensation is felt most strongly on the glans/ frenulum but moving up and down the shaft has its own interesting sensation. The more you get up the shaft, the stronger the vibrations are felt.

Like the old power unit, the new one made the rounds among my testees. It still made people with erectile dysfunction cum because you do not need a hard dick to experience the sensations of the Slubb. It’s also still the perfect tool to get another orgasm out of a well-used dick. And if you have a big dick, the 220mm length of the Slubb should be large enough to give pleasure where milking sleeves of massagers are too constraining. And since the Slubb is attached using a screw, it does not come off unlike massager sleeves. For a more detailed look, check out the review of the original Slubb.

The Slubb should only be used with silicone lube for two reasons. First, silicone lube lasts longer so you do not have to relube ever 3 to 5 minutes as I tested with water-based lube. Second, the silicone oil in the lube maintains the rubber. Cleaning of the Slubb is easy: Unscrew, bath in warm soap water, dry and you are ready to go again.

Battery inside the New Charger

In the construction chapter I wrote that I tend to edge and milk for hours. At least as long as the battery lasts. Preferring the up and down movement on my well-lubed glans and shaft, I have to hold the power unit in my hand. The unit gets noticeable warm. Not dangerously hot but very warm. These tools are not designed to be used continuously for extended periods of time. So you might run into an overheating shutdown like I once did. If you want to use it for hours, you have to get a really high-end pro unit with a power cord for several hundreds of Euros. For most sexual a consumer unit like this one is sufficient. But if you are a power-milker, hardcore edger or a pro-dom you should see if other power unit options fit you better. Though still out of the box, this power unit is still good for a long, satisfying and intense milking and edging.

Conclusion: Effective and merciless milking tool if used on the right power unit.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Strong vibration transmission Heavy Slubb with Power Tool 146,90€
Gets very warm over time
Merciless milking possible
Does not come off during play
Easy to clean

Pig-Hole Popper

The Oxballs Pig-Hole Popper Jumbo Gaper, Tall & Big Gaper

Vendor: Oxballs

Toy Properties

Form: Tunnel Plug
Material: Silicone
Colors: Solid Black, Mables: Red&Orange, Blue&Teal, Lime&Olive, Purple&Lavender, Violet&Light Blue, Magenta&Pink
Firmness: Medium; does not collapse when standing up.
Lube: Water and Oil based. Silicone or hybrid lube can destroy the toy!
Cleaning: Soaking in boiling water with dish-soap than use sanitizer.
Safer Sex: Expose to boiling water to kill germs
Storage:
Store standing up in a well-ventilated place not touching other toys to prevent damaging the toys.

When Oxballs announced that they would be releasing some new, even bigger Pig-Hoes, my inbox exploded. If had played with one yet, what my opinion on those were, how the new silicone blend compared to the old one. Against popular opinion I only very rarely get preproduction samples. So during my USA trip in September I stocked up with some new Oxballs stuff. And after some thorough review scenes, here are my thoughts.

Construction

All Pig-Hole Popper share the same basic design of Pig-Holes. The Popper Tall and Big Gaper are versions of the Pig-Hole Deep (link to review), the Jumbo Gaper is basically an Pig-Hole FF (link to review). They also keep the basic wall strength. Inside the barrel is textured with lateral ridges like on their cousins. The big different is that the outside of the barrel is not smooth but it is textured with big bumps. There are three on the Big Gaper, four on the Tall and five Bumps on the Jumbo Gaper. Like the Pig-Hole Deep and FF all Popper cannot be turned inside out.

Before I come to the dimensions, a word on the maximum dimensions. After my last Pig-Hole reviews, I have gotten a couple of messages complaining that my measurements are not accurate. The combined the Pig-Hole with a dick/ fist/ toy and the maximum dimensions were considerable larger than described. Since the silicone is flexible, it will stretch. So the toy can feel and be considerable larger than measured when stuffed!

Toy Base Bottom Opening Max. Dimensions Top Opening Insertable Length Overall Length
Big Gaper 80x93mm 37x45mm 67x68mm 33x38mm 110mm 145mm
Tall 102x116mm 47x54mm 80x86mm 43x50mm 150mm 192mm
Jumbo Gaper 87x118mm 52x67mm 105x106mm 49x64mm 107mm 150mm

The Opening of the Jumbo Gaper compared to the FF

For the Popper range, Oxballs uses a new platinum silicone blend they call “Marshmallow silicone”. Of course the material has the same material properties as every other silicone blend. It is non-toxic, hypoallergenic, easy to clean and sanitize with warm soap water.  In order not to damage the toys, only use it with water- or oil-based lubes. The silicone oil in silicone lube disintegrates the silicone over time. Firmness-wise I recall reading a Shore 00-value on Twitter. But since I cannot find the Tweet again, I am not going to quote it, especially since the value sounded quite low compared to the felt firmness. Subjectively the firmness sits between the regular Pig-Hole silicone and the Oxballs’ Morph silicone.

Colorwise Oxballs follows recent years’ trend of marbled, brightly colored anal toys. Besides the classic Solid Black, the offer six marble colors: Fire (Red & Orange), Water (Blue & Teal), Weed (Lime & Olive), Orchid (Purple & Lavender), Unicorn (Violet & Light Blue) and Rosebud (Magenta & Pink).  My Popper Jumbo is Black, the Popper Big Gaper Water and the Popper Tall’s color is Rosebud. Each marble is different with an individual color and pattern. Personally, I would have preferred my Water to have more blue and instead of the Rosebud and Black, I’d chosen Fire and Weed. But since there were so many review requests coming for these toys, I chose availability over colors.

The Bottom of the Jumbo Gaper and FF

Playing with the Pig-Hole Poppers

Despite being firmer than the Morph silicone (link to review), the Marshmallow of the Poppers is squishy yet far from the sponginess of the Marshmallows. “Firm Fudge” would probably been a better description though in regards of anal play probably not as sexy as Marshmallow.

The bumps around the barrel have two effects: First, the added texture makes taking the toy more difficult. The bumps are well rounded but the “rugged” surface keeps the toys from sliding in as easily as its smooth cousins (nota bene: I have not yet played with the Pig-Hole Squeal but I assume it’s texture will make it more difficult to take it). Second, the massive lumps around the barrel make it more rigid. Surprisingly, fisting through the Popper Jumbo Gaper is not much more difficult than through the Pig-Hole FF in regular firmness (I don’t have a Morph for comparison). This is partly due to the Marshmallow silicone being softer and the grooves between the bumps serve as expansion joints. With very small and nimble hands you can fist through the Popper Tall. The Popper Big Gaper is not fistable regardless of how small and strong the hand is!

The Bumps/ Knots of the Pig-Hole Popper

But the Big Gaper is the perfect dick sheath if you want to get knot-fucked! Most fantasy sheaths are made out of too thin, too soft silicone so they slip off easily. This is not the case with the Big Gaper! Of course with either need to grab the base while fucking or put the plug in a strap-on harness before you put in on your dick. For REALLY well-endowed guys, this might also work with the Popper Tall. Naturally, the Big Gaper is also a good fuck plug. The ridged inside the barrel will massage the glans while it slides through the tunnel.

The different Pig-Hole Popper stuffed with the Organotoy Sit-Plug, the Topped Toys Gape Keeper and SquarePeg Egg Plugs

The added spring and rigidity of the bumps makes folding the Pig-Hole Popper more difficult. If you are not extremely lose, folding the Pig-Hole is the best way to insert it. To fold the Poppers, grab the bumps on the lower end of the aperture and push those inwards. This is quite difficult with a well-lubed toy but it is the only way to decrease the diameter and make the toy more compact to push it through the sphincter. It truly is a toy for those holes who are not challenged by the larger Pig-Holes anymore.

For bottomless holes, another insertion method is putting a plug inside the tunnel and push the whole, not-collapsible Pig-Hole Popper into the hopefully well poppered bottom. You can adjust the intensity by your choice of plug: The softer and more rounded the plug, the easier will go in (for this I recommend a Topped Toys Gape Keeper [link to review] or SquarePeg Egg Plug in soft [link to review]). If you like it HARD, choose a firm Egg Plug (link to review) and/ or a plug the fills and stretched the inside of the barrel completely like the SquarePeg Acorn (link to review) or Organotoy Sit-Plug (link to review). If you grab the bottom of the Pig-Hole Popper and the stuffing plug, you can fuck the bottom with the texture and torment his sphincter and prostate by turning the combo inside his rectum. This is an intense ride but fun for texture junkies (like me).

Openings of the Pig-Hole Popper compared to old Pig-Holes

The bumps’ “texture” and larger diameter lock the Poppers quite well into the hole even when lubed handsomely. During the testing period accidentally shooting out the Pig-Hole Popper did not happen. So if you have an issue with your anus ejecting Pig-Holes, give the Poppers a try. From this angle the Big Gaper starts to make sense. My – to be frank quite greedy and experienced – testees were looking at this size a bit puzzled: Why introduce the Popper bumps onto a small toy? It is made for people not so anally experienced yet who for example want to turn their rectum into a free for urinal but fear that the trough might fall out. To learn what the different kinds of Pig-Holes are for, read my review of the Original Pig-Hole Range, the Pig-Hole Morph, the Pig-Hole FF and the Pig-Hole Deep (and yes, I am aware that I still have to review the Pig-Hole Squeal).

Bases of the Pig-Hole Popper compared to old Pig-Holes

Finally, let’s get down & dirty for some important pieces of sewer play advice. If you are faint of heart, stop reading here. From reader questions I know that quite a few of you like to play dirty with the Pig-Holes. Especially diaper peers and guys who want to surrender control completely enjoy the gaping powers of the toy. However, silicone takes on smell easily. The softer, the quicker. The longer the toy is exposed to the smell-carrying substance, the “deeper” the smell sinks into the toy. So superficial cleaning with disodorizing or sanitizing agents will not help. The good news is, the smell will fade over time. But if you have play partners who are picky about certain scents, you might want to get two Pig-Holes: One for dirty, one for clean play.

Where to buy?

You can get the Pig-Hole Popper directly at Oxballs. The Big Gaper is $99, the Tall is $159 and finally the Jumbo Gaper is $189 which is probably going to be the most popular.

VAST Breathing System – The Basis

Vendor: VAST

Important Security Information

As hot and horny breath play is, NEVER DO IT ALONE OR BY YOURSELF! Every year we lose several members of the kink community to self breath play. No matter how much you think you have figured out the safety and falls backs, there is always a slight and sadly often lethal chance of it failing.

This especially applies to playing with inhalants like poppers or N2O/ laughing gas.

If you are curious about breath play, look for experienced partners to introduce you to this kink and its intricacies. Please just never do it alone!

Some components of the VAST Breathing System

For years I have been asked to review breath play toys and I refused! I deemed breath play too dangerous to make people curious to try it out, especially on the own. However, the VAST Breathing System makes breath play more controllable that I decided to review it.

Controllable does NOT mean less dangerous! Breath play is always hardcore edge play and should NEVER BE DONE ALONE! Regardless of how much you think you have thought it out and how easy breath play get with this system, never do it alone.

As a disclaimer, I have been involved in the design of the design of this system early on. Most of the elements I am basing this review on are pre-production samples on which I have been giving feedback. Except minor alterations, they represent the products you would get if you ordered elements of the system. Most of my feedback went towards adding new elements (for example the screw-in one direction valve). While I try to stay as neutral as possible when writing about this system, please always keep in mind that the feedback of my testees and me has already been taken into consideration and thus my view might be a bit more positive as it would have otherwise has been. But as always I try to describe in depth what the system can do so you decide if it is useful for your play or not.

The Medical Mask Connected to the Rebreather

This being a system of toys, I decided to split this review in at least two parts: This will cover the basic elements and in a follow up in a few weeks I talk about fun but not necessary additions.

All that being said, let’s dive into the fun.

Construction

All elements of the VAST Breathing System are 3D printed. For the first prototypes they used a dark blue polymer because it was sturdier.  They have now found a black one with equal properties so you should get all black toys with the typical silky-rough surface of a 3D printed object. This manufacturing process also explained the price: Especially the larger items take hours to print and require a lot of polymer. Due to the small numbers these toys will be made cheaper manufacturing methods like die casting is not an alternative. So like with many kink toys you have the pay a premium for premium quality toy.

The S10 Upgrade Kit

Being 3D printed, all elements fit perfectly into each other and are air-tight. The air seal is supported by the silicone grease which also makes all parts move smoothly. Every moving part comes with a little jar just in case you need to relubricate. Do not use oil based lubrication for these toys! Oil and grease will damage and destroy rubber and latex! Since the gas masks, hoses and rebreathing bags for breath play are made out of rubber, you will harm these elements permanently.

The bigger parts and sets come in nicely finished and heat-embossed wooden containers. For easy storage of the individual pieces are housed in foam skips.

The Head Gear

The system is build around the NATO GM40 standard with a 40mm thread. In order to function properly, it needs a separate in and out. This means, it does NOT work with the popular Russian gas mask (though I think they are working on something) or the German one combined with a GM40 adaptor. With some 3D printed modifications it could probably work with the new British GSR. The system was primarily designed to work with the popular British Avon S10 or Avon FM12 gas mask. If you don’t have one of these gas masks, VAST sometimes sells them. But post-Brexit they have been very difficult to get.

The S10 Exhale Valve

In order to make these gas masks ready for play, you need to take the speech membrane out of the right port and on the S10 replace the left one with the Exhale Valve (49.90€). I have gotten this valve along with S10 Upgrade Kit (239€). This kit includes not only a stainless steel tool for – hopefully – easy conversion and the Exhale Valve but also a replacement for the front insert with a screw off middle part. Instead of the middle part you can put in different tunnels with diameters of 40mm, 45mm and 50mm or holders for the Fleshlight Classic and Fleshlight GO. This kit has been sitting around my playroom for a couple of months now but I have not used it yet.  As written above, the S10 and FM12 have been very hard to get and gotten very expensive. So I have not had it in my heart to transform one of two S10 I have gotten using the kit. As soon as I have gotten my hand on another S10/FM12 I will document the transformation process and link the article here. If you every wanted to facefuck you breath controlled, gas masked bottom or turn him into a human Fleshlight, this is the way to go!

The Prototype of the Screw-In One-Way Valve

Partly why I was hesitant to modify one of my gas masks was that I already turned my FM12 into a BC one by taking the membranes out on both sides and sealed the exhale vent in the middle. However, in order for the VAST Breathing System to work, one port must be one-way. So I recommended to create a GM40 screw-in one-way valve. In the first prototype I used for this review, the valve was integrated into a gas mask hose. The last prototype was as originally suggested by me an element to be screwed between the gas mask and any hose. It is not on the website yet and I don’t know the price yet. I will update this review as soon as it is online. In the meantime, write them an e-mail. This screw-in valve of course makes every GM40 two-port breath control rubber hood (from Studio Gum for example) compatible with this system.

The Medical Mask with the Mask Splitter to seperate the In- and Exhale

If a gas mask is too much for you, you rather wear a different hood or a blindfold instead of a gas mask or want something handy to press manually onto your sub’s face, the Medical Mask (19.95€) is the way to go. It needs to be combines with the Mask Splitter (99€) which adds two GM40 ports each one-way valved to the Medical Mask. To fix the medical mask to the head, VAST developed a Head Harness (69.50€) out of the extra strong Superior Latex. The straps are long enough to accommodate even big heads. Since Superior Latex is soft and smooth like garment latex, there is little pressure on the head and you can lie on it comfortably. The buckles are small so if you lie on your side, they are noticeable but not really uncomfortable.

Being a sensual player, this is the combination I use most with the breathing system. It allows me to look into my sub’s eyes unobstructed while caressing his head or nibbling on his ears. A friend of mine is really into sleek and slick rubber drone play. He preferred the medical mask too because it was the smallest addition to the flowing lines of the seamless black rubber cocoon his subs wear.

Detail of the Labeling on the Rebreather

The Rebreather (189€)

This is the main element of the Breathing System and game changer in breath play for me!

It is a 47mm tall can with a diameter of about 100mm. In the middle sits a big, remarkable smooth-turning switch which can be gripped and operated easily even when wearing thick gloves.  Into the tin’s rim the words “intern” and “extern” are printed. Around the tin five female GM40 ports are located. Each port is also labeled on top.

Setting up the Rebreather is quite intuitive: Connect the GM40 port labeled “Breath In” with the gas mask port for breathing in, the port labeled “Breath Out” with the corresponding mask port. In order for the system to work, the airflow passing through the mask must be uni-directional! Because of this, a one-ways valve on the breathing out is essential! Finally, attach a re-breathing bag to the aptly named “Bag” port and you are ready to go.

When your sub inhales for the first time, the switch should be turned to “extern” so he draws in fresh air. Before he starts to exhale, switch to internal. Now his breath is caught in the bag and he draws his air from there. Once he needs fresh air, simple turn the switch again to “extern”, the air goes out through the port “Air Out” and fresh comes in through “Air In”.

That’s it! Very anti-climactic and simple. But that’s the beauty of this system. In the past breath play involved manually holding shut hoses, pulling off masks or unscrewing bags just in time. Timing these time-taking actions just right that there were hot enough to kick the sub’s head but timely enough to avoid panic or even worse accidents was a skill which took very long to learn. And put clumsy people like me off breath play. Now getting the sub that sweet, sweet fresh air is just a switch turn away. It makes breath play more controllable and thus safer. Let me iterate here again that this doesn’t mean you can play with the system on your own! It just makes breath play easier so the top can focus more on doing fun things to his sub.

The Wide Range of Male/Male Hoses

Since the system is built around GM40 female ports, you need hoses with male connectors on both sides. For those who have built their breath play toy bag around professional anesthetic gear, VAST made a GM40 connector (18,90€) for those hoses.  Very rarely you can find GM40 male/male hoses in military surplus stores – most hoses are male/female. If you don’t have any male/ male, VAST sells those hoses. The nice thing about those is that the connector is disconnected from the hose end in a screwcap style. So when you turn connect the elements you just have to turn the screw and not the object the port is connected to.  This makes the relatively steep price somewhat justifiable. Another advantage of these hoses is that unlike the surpluses hoses which usually have the standard length of 45cm they come in length from 10cm to 105cm.

This is nifty because one disadvantage of the system is that the elements are bulky and heavy and adding a lot of long hoses doesn’t help (especially once you start incorporating other fun elements which I will talk about in a few weeks). So using short hoses keeps the entire setup at least somewhat compact. And from a certain point on it also becomes a safety issue. Depending on the lung capacity and strength, the sub’s draft can become too weak to pull fresh air through the tubes. So in order to stay safe, I recommend staying below 150cm total length between the point where fresh air enters and the sub’s mouth.

Detail of the Capsule Injector

In order to work properly, a breathing bag needs to be attached to the port labeled “bag”. You can use professional breathing bags together with the GM40 adaptor I mentioned in the section about hoses. Some kink stores also sell breath bags with a male GM40 port attached already. Depending on sub’s size and which sports he does, the average lung capacity is between 2l and 4l (extremely sporty guys or divers manage up to 8l…).

For more elaborate play VAST developed the Capsule Injector (119€). It is a 6l breathing bag with a male GM40 connector. Once attached to the “Bag” port, it works like a standard breathing bag.  Between the connector and the bag sits aluminum cartridge holder for standard kitchen use N2O capsules. In order to introduce the gas into the system, turn the switch on the Rebreather to “extern”, put the capsule in to the cartridge holder screw it tightly so the gas fills the bag (one capsule is about 6l so the bag inflates almost completely). Once the sub has exhaled, turn the switch to “intern” and let him rebreathe the agent. Since N2O is only slowly absorbed and thus needs to be rebreathed, this is a very elegant and sophisticated method compared to the other ways the gas is usually inhaled and rebreathed.

One of the Shut Off GM40 Ports

Very long story short, the concept behind the breathing system is a simple one: Using a switch to change fresh air to rebreathing. And a few gear enthusiasts have built elaborate breath play setup in their playrooms. But they are mostly stationary and not easy to rebuilt by unskilled and/ or unhandy people. So as far as I know the VAST Breathing System is the first portable, easy and more importantly safe to use breath play system. As a clumsy person I never felt comfortable to top breath play even though I knew the science behind it and theoretically have the skills. With the Rebreather and the accompanying toys I feel safe enough to do more breathe play as a top.

This review only covers the basis of the breathing system. It includes many different tools for forced poppers huffing, breathing the smell of piss or used socks and underwear, rebreathing the breath of a fellow sub. I will take a look at these toys in a review in a few weeks.

Conclusion: Innovative special purpose restraint with practical shortcoming.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Safe to use even in extreme scenes A bit bulky & heavy VAST
High price
Very easy to use Does not work on one-port gasmasks (S10 can be converted)
Many different add-ons for elaborate setups

Survey of the Cosmos Pegasi & Solaris

Form: Fantasy Plugs
Material: Platinum Silicone.
Colors: Elaborate Marbles
Firmness: Ultra Soft, Soft & Firm
Lube: Water, Oil
Cleaning: Soaking in hot water with dish-soap than use sanitizer.
Safer Sex: Clean and sanitize it thoroughly
Storage: Store in a well-ventilated place not touching other toys to prevent damage.

Vendor: ElyX Toys

In the six years that I have been reviewing anal toys I have reviewed some huge toys. But for some readers the BIG size options of the toys I have reviewed were not large enough. So toys with ElyX I am following your request to take a look at some of the most MASSIVE toys on the market.

The ElyX Toy Solaris & Pegasi

Construction

Among my testees there was some discussion in which form category these toys belong but despite the length we settled for plugs despite the length these toys can get in larger sizes. In the end, you buy an ElyX toy to get stretched and fill full which made us lean a bit toward plug instead of (knotted) dildo.

ElyX only makes toys out of platinum silicone so they are 100% body safe and easy to clean. Though you must not use them with silicone lube because it will disintegrate the material. Making some of the biggest insertable toys on the planet is also reflected in the firmness option. Unlike other companies ElyX starts with toys in Shore 00-20 which is extremely squishy but also delicate. These toys are extremely prone for creases. They have to be stored upright and other toys must not lay on them in a used-toy bucket. Other firmness options are the common soft Shore 00-30 and the medium firm Shore 00-50.

The Vac-U-Lock and Suction Cup

All toys can be equipped with a Vac-U-Lock hole or a deep suction cup. The Vac-U-Lock is great if you are playing with a partner because you can attach a handle or he can push his finger in the hole to guide the toy. The smaller versions of the toy will work on a fuck machine. The larger one are too heavy for the rods. The deep suction cup surprised me! It is so deep and thus strong that even large toys stick to the wall. So if this is your kind of solo play style, I highly recommend it.

One of the nice properties of platinum silicone how well it takes on color and effects like UV activity or glow in the dark. The creative mind behind ElyX toys on a regular basis creates new patterns, marbles and combinations. So I recommend checking out his Twitter feed for inspiration or approach him with your own ideas.

Pegasi’s Tip

Pegasi starts out with two flattish bulbs that for the tip. The taper towards a short neck which forms into a shallow ridge on the front and the back. Left and right of these ridges are massive bulbs. Below them runs a ridge around the toy. The neck is also textured with two ridges before ending in a wide base.

While Pegasi has big yet smooth flowing texture, Solaris plays a different game. Across the top of the tip run two parallel ridges which end in what could be considered a glans rim. Left and right of the ridges are small bumps. The back of the shaft is textured by two horizontal ridges while the front features a pair of converging vertical ridges. These ridges run all the way to the base and up again until just below the horizontal ones. The encapsulate two bumps, the lower ones so large, they could be called a knot. The neck above the base is quite short but the texture will still keep the toy locked in your hole.

 

The Double Bumps Surrounded by the Ridge

Playing with Pegasi & Solaris

First things first: I have promised you BIG toys and when you look at the pics, you will probably say “They are big but not that massive.” In order for (most of) my testees and me to play with them, I chose “sensible” sizes. But you can get both toys like all ElyX toys in super-sizes. Though when they go large they also go long. So keep in mind that the texture that first tantalizes your rectum will eventually (over) stimulate your sensitive second sphincter.

Solaris‘ Tip

Despite my toys being the smaller sizes of the range, they are not for beginners. You need a trained (as in fistable!) and pre-stretched hole to really enjoy the toys.  Due to the dull tip and high level of texture, they will not gradually open up your hole or slide in easily. So if a stretching toy like the SP Egg, the OT Sit-Plug or the TT Gape Keeper fits, it is unlikely that similarly sized ElyX toy will fit.

The Pegasi is a bit more for “beginner” or people looking for a smooth sensation ride. The different textures and stretching points are stacked on top of each other so you can enjoy them individually. Solaris on the other hand is a bit chaotic with lateral bulbs next to ridges and textures being all over the place. So Solaris unleashes his full potential best in the hands of a skilled top who twists and turns the toy inside the hole. It takes some learning but once you figured the toy out, you can purposely create a bit of stimulus overload when one texture is scratching the prostate while the anus is stimulated differently. When you ride the toys, the textures are a bit all over the place.

Pegasi’s Ridges

Pegasi is made for riding! The two lateral bulges deliver a great stretching sensation. Once you go deeper, the first ridge is perfect for prostate humping/ massaging while the lower two ridges stimulate the anus. But also in the hands of a top, it reveals some hidden qualities. The bulgey tip is perfect for prostate stimulation and turning the knotty bulges inside the anus makes a great stretch sensation.

Where to buy?

You can buy all toys through ElyX’s Etsy store. There are not always all sizes and colors available. If you are interested in something particular, drop him a message.