Survey of the Cosmos Pegasi & Solaris

Form: Fantasy Plugs
Material: Platinum Silicone.
Colors: Elaborate Marbles
Firmness: Ultra Soft, Soft & Firm
Lube: Water, Oil
Cleaning: Soaking in hot water with dish-soap than use sanitizer.
Safer Sex: Clean and sanitize it thoroughly
Storage: Store in a well-ventilated place not touching other toys to prevent damage.

Vendor: ElyX Toys

In the six years that I have been reviewing anal toys I have reviewed some huge toys. But for some readers the BIG size options of the toys I have reviewed were not large enough. So toys with ElyX I am following your request to take a look at some of the most MASSIVE toys on the market.

The ElyX Toy Solaris & Pegasi

Construction

Among my testees there was some discussion in which form category these toys belong but despite the length we settled for plugs despite the length these toys can get in larger sizes. In the end, you buy an ElyX toy to get stretched and fill full which made us lean a bit toward plug instead of (knotted) dildo.

ElyX only makes toys out of platinum silicone so they are 100% body safe and easy to clean. Though you must not use them with silicone lube because it will disintegrate the material. Making some of the biggest insertable toys on the planet is also reflected in the firmness option. Unlike other companies ElyX starts with toys in Shore 00-20 which is extremely squishy but also delicate. These toys are extremely prone for creases. They have to be stored upright and other toys must not lay on them in a used-toy bucket. Other firmness options are the common soft Shore 00-30 and the medium firm Shore 00-50.

The Vac-U-Lock and Suction Cup

All toys can be equipped with a Vac-U-Lock hole or a deep suction cup. The Vac-U-Lock is great if you are playing with a partner because you can attach a handle or he can push his finger in the hole to guide the toy. The smaller versions of the toy will work on a fuck machine. The larger one are too heavy for the rods. The deep suction cup surprised me! It is so deep and thus strong that even large toys stick to the wall. So if this is your kind of solo play style, I highly recommend it.

One of the nice properties of platinum silicone how well it takes on color and effects like UV activity or glow in the dark. The creative mind behind ElyX toys on a regular basis creates new patterns, marbles and combinations. So I recommend checking out his Twitter feed for inspiration or approach him with your own ideas.

Pegasi’s Tip

Pegasi starts out with two flattish bulbs that for the tip. The taper towards a short neck which forms into a shallow ridge on the front and the back. Left and right of these ridges are massive bulbs. Below them runs a ridge around the toy. The neck is also textured with two ridges before ending in a wide base.

While Pegasi has big yet smooth flowing texture, Solaris plays a different game. Across the top of the tip run two parallel ridges which end in what could be considered a glans rim. Left and right of the ridges are small bumps. The back of the shaft is textured by two horizontal ridges while the front features a pair of converging vertical ridges. These ridges run all the way to the base and up again until just below the horizontal ones. The encapsulate two bumps, the lower ones so large, they could be called a knot. The neck above the base is quite short but the texture will still keep the toy locked in your hole.

 

The Double Bumps Surrounded by the Ridge

Playing with Pegasi & Solaris

First things first: I have promised you BIG toys and when you look at the pics, you will probably say “They are big but not that massive.” In order for (most of) my testees and me to play with them, I chose “sensible” sizes. But you can get both toys like all ElyX toys in super-sizes. Though when they go large they also go long. So keep in mind that the texture that first tantalizes your rectum will eventually (over) stimulate your sensitive second sphincter.

Solaris‘ Tip

Despite my toys being the smaller sizes of the range, they are not for beginners. You need a trained (as in fistable!) and pre-stretched hole to really enjoy the toys.  Due to the dull tip and high level of texture, they will not gradually open up your hole or slide in easily. So if a stretching toy like the SP Egg, the OT Sit-Plug or the TT Gape Keeper fits, it is unlikely that similarly sized ElyX toy will fit.

The Pegasi is a bit more for “beginner” or people looking for a smooth sensation ride. The different textures and stretching points are stacked on top of each other so you can enjoy them individually. Solaris on the other hand is a bit chaotic with lateral bulbs next to ridges and textures being all over the place. So Solaris unleashes his full potential best in the hands of a skilled top who twists and turns the toy inside the hole. It takes some learning but once you figured the toy out, you can purposely create a bit of stimulus overload when one texture is scratching the prostate while the anus is stimulated differently. When you ride the toys, the textures are a bit all over the place.

Pegasi’s Ridges

Pegasi is made for riding! The two lateral bulges deliver a great stretching sensation. Once you go deeper, the first ridge is perfect for prostate humping/ massaging while the lower two ridges stimulate the anus. But also in the hands of a top, it reveals some hidden qualities. The bulgey tip is perfect for prostate stimulation and turning the knotty bulges inside the anus makes a great stretch sensation.

Where to buy?

You can buy all toys through ElyX’s Etsy store. There are not always all sizes and colors available. If you are interested in something particular, drop him a message.

Bastinado Special Restraints

Bastinado Special Restraints

Vendor: McHurt

Construction

The Bastinado Special Restraints are two ankle cuffs connected in the middle by sturdy stitching. Due to using stitching instead of a rivet they cannot twist. The leather of the cuff is not padded and 50mm wide. The cuffs feature an incredible ankle size range between 16cm and 28cm circumference. So they fit equally on petit ladies and big bulls. For easy handling the cuffs are closed using a roller buckle which is covered by a leather tongue so the metal does not press into the skin. Between the cuffs a 25mm wide and 26cm long belt is securely sown.

The toy comes with another connected cuff with 20mm wide leather straps closed by roller buckles. This small restraint is made for fettering the big toes together. Again, at a circumference range between 5cm and 11cm it should fit most feet. Unlike its big brother there is no belt between the cuffs.

Comparison of the Edge Finish of the Two Parts

McHurt is famous for basic yet heavy duty BDSM toys. They source their toys in Europe so no problem with Chrome-6 leather like from cheap Asian mass manufacturer or sloppy stitching. But the leather is initially stiffer than I would expect it to be and the inside of the ankle cuffs is lined with sued which edges have not been finished. That McHurt’s supplier is capable of a higher level of refinement is shown on the toe cuff which has perfectly finished edges – except for the leather tongue which underlines the buckles. All things consider at 49.80€ you get great value for your money! But just don’t expect the level of refinement you get at Mr S or Regulation/ Fetters.

Detail of the Roller Buckle

Playing with the Bastinado Special Restraints

Hitting the soles of the feet has many names: Bastinado, falaka, dǎ jiǎoxīn or foot whipping. It has an equally long tradition in Arabian, Asian and Western punishment culture. However, if you are not good with ropes, it is hard secure the feet in a way that they don’t flinch so you can deliver the blows precisely. As their name indicates, the Bastinado Special Restraints were designed just for that.

The Sued on the Inside of the Ankle Cuffs

The big cuffs are for tying the feet of the bottom together. The wide leather is perfect for distributing the strong force legs can exert evenly on the ankle so they are comfortable yet secure. Since the restraint has not padding or body but the belt is the restraint, there is little wiggle room. So with the feet tied next to each other, the soles form an even and parallel impact surface. This is basis for controlled and evenly hit impact play. But beyond this job well done, it gets a bit difficult.

The lacking level of refinement sadly also shows how cutting corners impairs the functionality of this toy. The strap between the cuffs is supposed for tying the ankle cuffs to a bar some (!) beds have as a design feature at the foot end. Most of these bars are purely ornamental so not really made for detaining struggling feet. But even if I ignore the scarcity of this design element and its common fragility – even though it is necessary for these cuffs to properly work! – the belt position doesn’t make sense! You have to twist it 90° in order tie it to a bar running perpendicularly to the cuffs. Of course, attaching it between the cuffs is cheap and still it somehow does the trick, but it is another example of lacking refinement and cutting corners due to cost.

The Inside of the Toe Cuffs

There is a similar issue on the toe cuffs. They keep the toes securely together to form an even impact area. But the bottom can still move his feet backwards and forwards. A small D-ring for attaching a tension strap to keep them from wiggling would have been great!

Do these issues make the Bastinado Special Restraints a bad toy? No! As already written, they are great value for money. You just need to invest a little bit of thinking and effort to work out the kinks.

  1. If you don’t have a bar to attach the restraints to, run tension straps though the roller buckles and laterally fetter the cuffs to the bed frame. Don’t use the rectangular gates as attachment points! They are not welded and will bend open (replacing them with welded D-rings [or welded gates like on the Rubstraints] would be the best solution tbh).
  2. You can use a big shackle as an improvised attachment point. If the thick metal wire is a bit uncomfortable for the bottom, a narrow and soft tape sling tied in a bowline also does the trick. I have tried carabineers but they tend to turn and slip, making it more uncomfortable.

An Improvised Attachment Point for the Toe Cuffs

I cannot review this toy without talking about impact play on the feet itself. Like the hand, the foot has many delicate bones which easily shatter. There is fat tissue and almost no thick muscle tissue to dampen the kinetic energy of the impact blow. So don’t let yourself be fooled by movies where people use thick bamboo canes to punish a guy! Instead use riding crops, thin canes with medium blow intensity, floggers of strap out of not too stiff leather or padded paddles. You can also flick wooden, delrin or aluminum blades but no full blows. The danger of inflicting permanent damage is too high.

Of course, with the feet kept in place, they are in a perfect spot for having wax poured on them. Or playing with a Wartenberg wheel. Or prick soles on combination with a rolling pin. Or e-stim. There are many safe options out there to torment the soles. Just don’t be over enthusiastic when it comes to actual bastinado 😉

Conclusion: Innovative special purpose restraint with practical shortcoming.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Unique design Attachment solution of the ankle cuffs is only hypothetical McHurt 49.80€
Can be used on wide range of body types
Good value for money Toe restraints have not attachment point
No d-rings
Unsophisticated manufacturing

Superior Latex Restraints (& Harnesses)

The VAST Superior Latex Bondage Gear

Vendor: VAST

Construction

These restraints are standard cuff-style restraints. The body is 69mm wide and slightly convex. The wrist restraint body it is 220mm long, the ankle one is 320mm. Onto the body a 40mm wide belt is attached using four pairs of rivets. When the restraints are lying down, the belt bends slightly upwards. This is the “extra length” needed to comfortably wrap the restraints around the sub’s body. Between two rivet pairs a D-ring is housed. On the left side the belt ends in a roller buckle, on the other side it tapers for easy threading.

There are seven holes with 10mm spacing between the centers. The material and bonding is so strong and perfect, these restraints do not need the belt hole reinforcement rivets common on other pieces of rubber restraints (which are a pain in the ass when bending or falling out). The first hole is 75mm away from the belt tip. Due to this even in the largest setting, the belt tip goes fully through the belt loop.

For extra security you can order the restraints with a locking pin for an additional 20€. These restraints come with a two locks which look nice but can be picked with a paperclip. As always I recommend investing keyed alike, non-bras (!) locks like from ABUS or Master for your play.

The Wrist and Ankle Restraints with the Anatomically Curvature

As the name of the toy already indicates, it is made out of latex. Unlike other rubber restraints which rely on thick and stiff industrial rubber, VAST’s Superior Latex is made out of two layers of 0.8mm thick soft and smooth garment latex glued on top of a strap of aramid. So the material combines the softness of thin latex usually used to make fetish wear with the high strength of aramid. Being made out of standard 4D latex the restraints smell SO good and delicious like rubber gear shoud!

All trim like rivets, buckles, D-rings or the locking pin are made out of stainless steel. This is important because stainless steel is the only metal (well, except platinum, gold or aluminum…) which does not chemically react with rubber. This reaction, commonly called “latex cancers” makes the material soft and gooey and ultimately over time will make the material tear. Because all trim is made out of stainless steel, the restraints will withstand heavy use for many years. Stainless steel is also important because due to the design, the rivets touch the skin. Other materials could cause allergies but with stainless steel you are 99.9% safe.

Detail of the Logo and Stitching Laser Engraving

The restraints can be ordered in a wide range of different designs. The most simple is of course a single color followed by different colors on the outside and the inside or a different colored strap. There are two strip options: Either a thick stripe in the middle, slightly bigger than the belt holes or the thin stripe running 10mm inside around the belt (the option I chose for my restraints). Colorwise you can choose from the 4D Rubber range of 80 different shades to match your other gear or show your fetish by choosing a hanky color. Of course, they don’t have all colors in stock but can order them.

A nice design touch is a laser-engraved band of small lines which runs around every pieces of rubber, even the belt loop. This creates the look of stitching. Despite not adding anything functional to the restrains, it is a great design feature that adds to the overall high quality look and appeal of the restraints. Since they do the laser-engraving themselves you can customize the gear with your own tests, logos, etc..

These many customizing options mean of course that there is little to no stock. When friends ordered their harnesses and restraints it took about two weeks for their set to me made. So like with all (custom) rubber gear, plan a little bit ahead when you want it for a specific event like Folsom for example. If you want a combination or customization that’s not on your website, send them an e-mail.

Detail of the D-ring

Playing with the Superior Latex Restraints

Being standard cuff-style restraints, they are a good basis for almost every non-rope bondage layout. They are easy to handle and fetter the sub securely. You can really tell that they have been designed by perverts for perverts. With two D-rings you can easily brace the restraints in an elaborate rope or tension strap layout. The slightly convex design of the restraint body hugs the joint anatomically correct. The tapered tip of the belt makes threading it through the roller buckle and the belt loop quick and easy.

So far, they behave like every other leather and rubber restraint I have reviewed on this website. But due to being made out of soft latex they are the most flexible and tightest closable restraints in my collection. Since two layers of 0.8mm thick latex are glued together they have just the right level of stiffness to not flap or wobble around. The edges are not deburred but straight cut. Unlike with thick industrial rubber this is not a problem. None of my testees and friends who have been using Superior Latex gear for quite some time now encountered chafing on the skin or scratches on rubber gear from these restraints. Even when the sub is struggling hard, the restraints are detaining him without digging into the flesh. All things considered, they are comfortable and secure over extended periods of time.

The Tapered Tip of the Belt Threaded through The Belt Loop

Speaking of struggling hard, the restraints can take a beating. I have fettered subs who are notorious for trashing bondage gear in them and they still look like new. To really test them, I attached my suspension harness to them and put a sub in it. Another top friend incorporated them into a suspension bondage layout.  These are borderline cases and you should at least try the latter two not at home if you are not very versed in suspension bondage. But these little experiments show how strong these restraints really are.

The friends who have ordered these restraints all bought the locking versions. Once locked around the wrist and ankles of a full rubber gimp, he cannot take his gear off anymore and is encapsulated in his rubber prison. While this of course can also be done with locking leather restraints, being made out of shiny latex they do not obstruct the sleek, polished look of a rubber gimp but blend into it. When I got mine, the locking option was not available yet so my restraints are not lockable (early adopter problem). But since the premium is so little, I would always recommend getting to lockable version!

The Roller Buckle

Being made out of latex, this bondage gear requires the same care as every piece of rubber gear. Rubber is easily damaged by oils like in perfume and fat. So do not expose this gear to Crisco for example. Since human skin has a slight layer of oils and fat, you need to wash the restraints after putting them on bare skin (that being said, full rubber gimps with gloves do not have to do this ;)). I recommend special rubber detergent like VAST’s Wonder Wash for this but you can also use dish soap as long as it is not moisturizing or scented! Afterwards let it dry to avoid mold and treat it with silicone oil to care for the material and make it shiny. The gear should be stored in a dark, not too hot place.

Currently, these restraints are only available for neck, wrists and ankles. Hopefully in the (near) future the product range will be extended at least to biceps and thigh restraints (and maybe a fashionable thin biceps strap with small effect D-rings because even the smoothest of upper arm restraints is constraining when punch fisting someone…).

The Bulldog Harness on me

Superior Latex Harnesses

There is however a product category which borders restraints: Harnesses. If you have been following this website for some time, you know that I do not recommend fetish gear/ wear because which cut & fit turns somebody on is highly individual. However, I am going to make an exception here. Especially since a harness is only half fetish fashion accessory, half handle a top can grab to pull a sub towards him or hold onto while railing a bottom HARD.

For years I have been looking for a rubber bulldog harness. Since latex and rubber are fragile materials, none of the options available spoke to me. But I also do not like to mix leather and rubber, so wearing one of my leather ones wasn’t an option. Luckily VAST also makes three different harness designs in their Superior rubber: A classic bulldog (my favorite), a pet walking harness with a BIG d-ring for attaching a leash on the back and finally a Y-harness, perfect for attaching pieces of the Breather system to it or with a bit of rope (or tensions straps) to tie a torso down.

As I have written, style and fit preferences are highly individual. But if you are in the market for a heavy duty, intense play withstanding rubber harness, give them a try (on)!

Personally, I was surprised how well both bulldog and Y-harness looked on my body. When I have bought my first leather harness, I tried eight different ones before finding one that looked good on me…

Conclusion: Strongest, most flexible and customizable rubber bondage gear on the market.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Extremely strong yet comfortable to wear Limited range of restraints (for the moment) Wrist Restraints Starting at 119€
Ankle Restraints Starting at 124€
2 D-rings Collar Starting at 89€
High level of customizability Bulldog Harness Starting at 199€
Sleek design Y-Harness Starting at 199€
Pet Walking Harness Starting at 269€

Cross Body Bondage Harness

The Mr S Cross Body Bondage Harness

Vendor: Mr S Leather

This piece of gear is (probably) the final evolution of Mr S’ journey to see how much they can take away from a straight jacket and still acchieve stron fettering: They started out with a tradition straightjacket than came the Vector Bondage Sleeves and now we have ended with the Cross Body Bondage Harness. Let’s see if it performs as exceptional well as it’s bigger, bulkier brothers.

Construction

The core of this restraint are two welded, stainless steel o-rings connected by a short, sturdy strap of welded bridle leather. Onto each or-ring a 25mm wide and 60cm long bridle leather belt is riveted. They are closed using a roller buckle and the holes are punched from the tip down 37cm with 25mm spacing.

There is another 35cm long strap connected to each o-ring. Onto it a bondage mitt made out of soft yet thick, unlined garment leather is rivets. The mitts are large enough even for large paws. Subs up to glove size 13 have worn these comfortable in my playroom. The mitts are closed with yet another leather belt with a roller buckle and a locking pin. Sadly it does not come with locks. You need a standard 3mm wire strength lock this toy. A the plus side, it does not only house one but two d-rings.

The leather is the same as on all of the other Mr S bondage gear I have: Thick garment leather for the bodies and latigo leather for the straps. While the garment leather is the same as on every other toy that I own, the latigo was surprisingly stiff. Compared to other brands it is still quite soft and the edges are not firm or let alone sharp. But the straps are not as soft out of the box as on other toys from Mr S. Two things to consider: First, leather is a natural material and maybe the one strap my toy was made out of was stiffer. So there is a good chance a different toy will feel different.  Second, this did not mean that my toy was not usable right away. The straps were still softer and more flexible than from many other, high quality leather manufacturer. They just took longer to break in. If you have this toy, please let me know how your straps were out of the box.

The Mitt Part of the Cross Body Bondage Harness

Playing with the Cross Body Bondage Harness

First, let’s see how you can put these restraints on because this greatly influences the experience a lot.

As the name indicates, this is a body restraint: You place the o-ring connecting strap between the shoulder blades and put the mitts left and right of the neck to the front. First, put the left hand into the right mitt and the right hand into the left mitt. Leaving it just this way is the most comfortable way. To limit the movement more threat the belt through the corresponding D-ring on the mitt to tighten. For extra less leeway, thread the belt through both d-rings. For extra, straitjacket-like tightness, include the biceps in the fettering layout.

Especially in the latter setup, the bottom cannot move much. But if you want it tighter (and have additional straps like from other Mr S straitjackets), you can connect both mitts using a belt.  A borderline case for really thin and flexible bottoms is switching the restraint around and crossing the arms behind the back. Except for the most yoga affine twinks this is stress bondage. So do it carefully and ask the sub about his circulation in arms and hands on a regular basis!

The Roller Buckle and Locking Pin

When I first got these restraints, I was a bit skeptical: Do I need yet another body restraint from Mr S? The Vector Bondage Sleeves are perfect for me! They provide the same level of fettering as a straight jacket yet leave most of the body accessible for play. Ok, for travel they are still a bit bulky and the price is steep (yet well worth the money for me!). But what other experience would the Cross Body Bondage Harness offer?

Despite the small footprint they have one offer one of the best feats of straitjackets: The high adjustability of the intensity and feeling. The arms hanging down in front of the body is surprisingly comfortable. Crossing the arms is also a quite natural position and despite the mitts cuffs not being padded, the wrists don’t get tired hanging down. So like a straitjacket, the basic position is comfortable and can be maintained for extended periods of time. But you can easily make the bondage more intense and uncomfortably – just on a straitjacket. Unlike the straitjackets, the Cross Body Bondage Harness is a bit of a one trick pony since the basic position is only the same. But if this position works for you and your sub, this harness is great!

One of the O-Ring with the Three Belts Rivited onto it

This is especially true if you are big gear heads! Even more than with the Vector Straitjacket Sleeves, the Cross Body Bondage Harness covers less of the gear and thus doesn’t add heat – especially useful at events like Pride or Folsom. It also lets you display more of your gear while rendering the sub helpless. A demographic which preferred these restraints over straitjacket (sleeves) were bikers because apparently the arms hanging in a cross before the body is more comfortable in that gear.

Unlike most common straitjackets, these restraints are lockable. The locks are “only” on the mitts. But once the arms are crossed and the mitts are locked, you cannot get them off the subs. So like with every piece of lockable bondage gear, there “click” of the closing lock is a big mindfuck for many subs and hugh turn-on.

Speaking of gear head a common reader question regarding the Cross Body Bondage Harness was how it works with other pieces of bondage gear, especially collars and head gear.  The straps leading to the mitts run far enough left and right of the head and neck not interfere even with bulkier collars like a posture collar or gas masks and (motorcycle) helmets. It also allows good access to the neck to grab and drag the bottom.

The Two D-Rings per Mitt

Regardless if your sub is I heavy gear or you are like me and prefer your sub naked, this piece of bondage gear is good for leaving the lower torso exposed. The sub can easily and comfortably be bent over for getting fucked or spread his legs for getting his balls busted (or have his junk subjected to other forms of CBT). Due to the position of the mitts, the nipples are not really accessible well. The movement of the arms are not restricted enough to keep him from protecting them. A nimble subs can even push nipple clamps off though that process is going to be painful.

Since each mitt features two d-rings, the Cross Body Bondage Harness is somewhat good for tying someone down. With a bit of rope you can more or less effectively tie the upper torso to the bed. But that is not really what this toy is for. However the d-rings are enough and placed well enough to tie your boy to a post or bondage frame in a bar or bound him together with another sub.

Conclusion: The smallest footprint toy possible to get almost straitjacket light fettering.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Strong degree of bondage on small footprint Only one bondage position

Doesn’t come with locks

Mr S Leather $189.95
Lockable
Two d-rings per mitt

 

Fetters Scrotum Strap & Weight Anchor Strap

The Fetters Scrotum Strap & Weight Anchor Strap

Vendor: Regulation

Sometimes a review takes strange ways until it gets published here. Last week I have gotten a message asking for my opinion in these two toys. Having been using them for years, I wanted to send him the link to the corresponding review. But it turns out: Despite having been using them for years, I have never reviewed them! Let’s fix that!

Both Straps Unrolled

Construction

The design of the Scrotum Strap is quite simple: It is a 355mm long strap of belt leather. The lower 130mm length is 30mm wide, forming the body which then tapers to 220mm long and 15mm wide belt. Through the belt 7 holes with a 15mm center-to-center spacing are punched of which only 5 are usable. Onto the body a locking post and two 13mm wide d-rings under a slap of leather are riveted. Between the locking post and the first d-ring is a slot to thread the belt through. The Scrotum Strap comes with a pad lock.

The Sharp, Undeburred Edge of the Scrotum Strap

The basic design is also reflected in the material and manufacturing: The belt leather is stiff and neither burnished nor deburred. This means the edges are sharp until the leather is well worn in which will take quite a while. Since I rarely use the Scrotum Strap due to having several other toys to choose from, mine is still stiff and a bit sharp. If you want to speed up the breaking in-process, rub a little bit of neatsfoot oil on it and knead the toy while watching TV.

The Weight Anchor Strap borrows the basic design idea of the Scrotum Strap but develops it further. The body of the toy is made out of two layers of soft garment leather. The height depends on which version you get: The one buckle which I have has a 33mm tall body, the two buckle a 56mm tall one. On each side of the body a 180mm long and 14mm wide strap of belt leather is riveted. At the bottom a Ø19mm welded o-ring is riveted.

The Overlapping Body Protects Ball Skin from Getting Caught by the Belt

It is closed around the balls about the same way as the Scrotum Strap. On top of one strap a 240mm long and 14mm wide belt is riveted perpendicularly, while on top of the other a small roller buckle is. The belt goes through a slot inside the body and thus grips around the cuff wrapping around the sack’s neck.

Just like on the previous toy, the manufacturing is a bit basic: The perpendicular edges of the body is just bare cut-off leather without any treatment, the slot is not whipped. Since both toys are basic CBT toys you can overlook these shortcoming but considering the price compared to a set of cuff-style restraints I would have expected more.

Playing with the Scrotum Strap & Weight Anchor Strap

The Padlock to Close the Scrotum Strap

As simple as the design is, it is ingenious: You wrap the body around the sack’s neck, thread the belt end through the slot and tighten it until you reach a snug yet comfortable fit. Then you thread the belt through the d-rings and close the toy by locking it onto the sub.

As long as the leather is not broken in, the adjustment process is cumbersome: Due to the stiffness it takes some adjustment to get it around the balls tightly. Threading it through the d-rings is a nightmare because of the friction. For me, this created a bit of a vicious cycle because I had easier to use toys which I then preferred and thus never broke the Scrotum Strap in.

This is a shame because it is a nifty little toy with much potential. The smallest diameter of it is 24mm, the largest 42mm so it covers a wide range of possible scrotums. As written above due to the position of the locking pin and one of the d-rings you cannot tighten it further than the third to last hole. A friend of mine has been using his Scrotum Strap for half a decade on a regular basis. It is broken in and thus soft. He uses it with some of his slave as a reminder of belonging by simply locking it around the balls for a day or so. Unlike a chastity cage, the Scrotum Strap will not impair any everyday activity but once locked cannot be taken off. So it is a nice, psychological reminder that someone else has control over you when a locked collar, wrist or ankle chain are not an option. If you are a bit of a sadist, locking the Scrotum Strap around your sub’s balls can speed up the breaking in process. The warmth and moisture of the junk in combination with the movement will soften the leather up over time. Until then, it will be uncomfortably to wear and create some abrasions and burns.

A Shackle can be Used to Increase the Capacity of the D-Ring

For more action oriented play, the Scrotum Strap is a secure and tight anchor point on the balls. So in a full body lockdown it can be used to tie even the balls in place. In more mobile settings, I like to connect the ankle restraints to it to restrict the sub’s movement. Of course this also works with wrist restraints but my favorite is connecting the Scrotum Strap with a Handlock for minimal slack wrist-to-ball restraints.

If you want to connect the Scrotum Strap with another restraint bear in mind since the belt is threaded through the d-rings the space between the apex and the belt is only 5mm! While this might be enough for a padlock, if you want to use carabiners use them together with shackles. Another alternative are folded nylon tension straps.

The O-Ring at the Bottom of the Anchor Staps

The Weight Anchor Strap attaches to the body the same ways as the previous toy: Thread the belt through the slot and around the body to the roller buckle. Since there is not friction and the ball cuff’s body is made out of soft leather that easily wraps around the scrotum, this is quite easy. On this toy you can use all the punched holes creating a internal diameter between 27mm and 42mm. If your sub has smaller or less meaty balls, you can punch additional holes to tighten the restraint even further. For meatier balls, you have to just give it a try since the body is very soft and only stiff in the middle where the belt runs around, I managed to put the toys even on bull balls.

The softness in combination with the wide range of adjustability enables a really secure fit that is comfortable over extended periods of time even the tug on the toy is big. As the name of the toy suggests, it is made for weights. Most people use parachutes for this kind of play but they are only good for so much pulling force. If you add a momentum by letting the weight swing, the snap fastener either pops open or a ball slips through the thin ring the parachute creates. This does not happen with the Weight Anchor Strap. Since it comfortably yet securely compresses the ball’s neck, it stays in plays up to weight amounts way beyond which is medically advisable (the maximum amount of weights I have suspended from a sub’s scrotum using this toy were 10+kg. Don’t try this at home!). If you want to use climbing carabiners instead of threading rope or tension straps through the o-ring, you will have create a larger opening using shackles like with the above reviewed toy.

The Anchor Straps‘ Roller Buckle

The straps are riveted to slightly to the body that they don’t move. But they are long enough to allow for a pendulum movement. The movement stops quicker than on more freely hanging chains but the stiffness also transfers more of the kinetic energy onto the balls for an intense tug.

Of course you can also incorporate the Anchor Straps into bondage layouts by connecting them to restraints. But I found that the straps and the o-ring create more slack than the Scrotum Strap. But this is a very minor point of a toy hoarder. If you just have this one, it will perfectly work for tying down the balls or limit the subs movement by connecting either or both ankle and wrist restraints with this ball cuff.

Conclusion: Secure ball cuffs for heavy play
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Secure fit even during hard play Stiff leather which takes long to break-in Regulation £24 (Scrotum Strap)

£30 (one buckle)
£35 (two buckle)

Adjustable to wide range of ball sized Adjusting is a bit cumbersome
Once broken in comfortable to wear over extended periods of time Basic build quality

Classic Restraints

The Cuffed Classic Restraints

Quick note: ToyTorture.com is still on hiatus until after Ascension. But I have been getting so many questions about the Cuffed Classis Restraints that I decided to take a break from the break and write this review today.

Vendor: Cuffed

Design

The Cuffed Classic Restraints is an entire system of sturdy restraints made out of rubber. Of course they cover the standard anchor points like wrist and ankle. But they also include thigh and biceps ones for total fixation (well, a body belt is missing but that can easily be made out of one big thigh restraint if you e-mail them nicely) or an extra long boot restraint to tie down MX boots up to wrist suspension cuffs.

The Kevlar reinforced Heavy Rubber Strap

The basic design of the Classic Restraints is a cuff-style like its brother the Rubstraints: The inside layer is made out of two layers of .8mm grade latex. This rubber either comes in classic black or in toyred, organge, yellow, white, green and blue. This makes them ideal to either display a hanky cover or add a dash of color to an all black rubber outfit. There is not padding like on many leather restraints but the rubber is soft enough to feel comfortable. On both side rubber tubing is encased in the same latex to create a cool piping look. The restraints come in two width: 64mm for the nimbler body parts like wrists and ankles and 101mm for the thighs. The thigh restraints have another layer of the industrial rubber covering the body. Otherwise it would warp too easily.

Onto the restaints body, a belt made out of a double layer of Kevlar reinforced black industrial rubber is riveted. For this two pairs of rivets are used between which a D-ring is housed. The wrist restraints has two D-rings, the ankle restraints have three, all with an internal width of 41mm. The thigh restraints feature five D-rings with 53mm with. One end of the belt is equipped with a roller buckle and a locking pin, on the other side there are rivet-reinforced belt holes. If you want to use to locking pin, you can fasten the belt until the third last hole.

The Roller Buckle and Locking Pin

The locking pin has a 4mm hole so most standard locks for restraint locking should fit. If you don’t have locks, I would not recommend buying the ones Cuffed is selling! They are made out of brass, the standard for locks even in the BDSM community – at least when it comes to leather. Brass is one the metals that can cause rubber cancer which is an unfixable! It frankly baffles me that a shop specializing in rubber is selling brass locks. If you want to lock these restraints, either buy aluminum or stainless steel padlocks (my choice are Abus Titalium but there are many other options) or use seals often used on chastity cages.

Like all rubber and latex items, these restraints require special care and handling. Most important: Keep them away from oil and fat, including and especially Crisco! These substances will destroy the rubber! Since there is always a thin film of oil on the human skin, rubber should be washed after each scene either using simple, non-moisturizing dish soap or a special rubber detergent (my detergent of choice is Wonder Wash). Before storing them, make sure they are COMPLETELY dry (often water gets trapped in the tubes used for the piping) and seal the surface either with talcum powder or silicone lube to keep the rubber from oxidation. But regardless how well you take care of the Rubstraints, how thoroughly you clean and protect them from oxidation, they – like all rubber and latex times – will over time get old and finally break! So use them often and well to get the most fun out of them.

The Triple Layer Thigh Restraint

If you want to learn more about rubber and latex, the perfect care and its appeal, check out my Rubber 101.

Playing with the Classic Restraints

This part of the review starts the same way as the review of their Rubstraint brother did 1 ½ years ago: These are rubber restraints the work and can take a beating – just like high quality leather restraints. Period. Most of the force of struggling and fighting is caught by the heavy rubber belt which can take a beating! One testee said “How secure can rubber restraints be?” He was surprised how well they tied him down. And he got really horny when he heard the clicking sound of the padlock through the locking post, realizing the he was now inescapable fettered with rubber in his latex catsuit.

The D-Ring Housing from the Bottom and the Top

Since the basic design with the latex piped lining is the same as on their brothers, the restraint can be worn on bare skin also when struggling hard without chafing.  But there is one major difference between the Classic Restraints and the Rubstraints: The latter has the industrial grade Velcro patch to align both ends of the restraints which is a nifty feature. While the latex of the body is soft and smoth, the tubes for the piping are stiff. This leads to one of the restraint breaking out when putting it on or even slipping when the sub is struggling. When wearing the cuffs are an accessory and putting the wrist restraints on on your own this is especially annoying. It sometimes took me several attempts to shackle the cuffs on my sub and chuckled a bit seeing an experienced to failing for a minute or so to fetter me until his pride allowed him to ask for a third, helping hand. Since rubber (ceteris paribus) does not get broken in, it is going to stay this way. Yes, it is annoying but over time you learn how to handle these restraints.

The Metal Gate Width Difference of the Rubstraint (left) and Classic (right)

Like on most restraints, D-rings are used as attachment points. And since each Classic Restraint has at least two, there are ample of fixation and bracing possibilities. They are wide enough to house more than one rope, tension strap or carabiner and even chains up to 6mm wire strength can be run through them.

An important thing to note is that the metal gate behind the roller buckle which aligns the belt is narrower than the gates on the Rubstraints! Because of this the belt system of Rubstraints is not compatible with the Classic restraints.

Since the Classic Restraints are made out of the same material as the Rubstraints the smell almost obscenely off latex! To protect them from sun light, I store them in a box and opening it releases a cloud of intoxicating rubber smell. And being made out of rubber they can be shined like rubber gear. If they get a bit dull, just take out silicone oil and shine them as glossy as you like them.

Conclusion: Sturdy and colorful rubber restraints.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Sturdy enough even for heavy bondage scenes and strong subs A bit difficult to put on and keep aligned Wrist Restraints 129€
Ankle Restraints 129€
Will age over time and will eventually break
Colorful restraint body
Intense rubber smell and feel Biceps Restraints 129€
More than one anchor point Thigh Restraints 239€
Locking Pin Boot Restraints 249€
Suspension Restraints 299€
Collar 129€

SquarePeg Leo 2X Long & King

Form: Realistic Dildo
Material: Platinum Silicone.
Colors: Graphite, Bronze & Chestnut
Firmness: Soft
Lube: Water, Oil
Cleaning: Soaking in hot water with dish-soap than use sanitizer.
Safer Sex: Clean and sanitize it thoroughly
Storage: Store in a well-ventilated place not touching other toys to prevent damage.

Vendor: Regulation

Sometimes, I get VERY specific review demands from certain countries. Since summer of 2021 UK kinksters were VERY interested in BIG and LONG realistic dildos. And since my motto is “Perverting the world one kinkster at a time” I gladly follow this yearning and review the Leo King and 2X Long for you greedy, tea sipping ass pigs.

Construction

Obviously Leo is a realistic dildo. It is a lifecast from a guy who was introduced to Scott, the founder of SquarePeg through mutual friends in 2016. Lucky for us since Leo is a very horny member in every dildo collection.

The SquarePeg Leo 2X, 2X Long and King

Being cast off US citizens, Leo is sadly cut. He starts out with dullish glans with a prominent glans rim bulge. The top third of the dick is slightly curved back with the remaining shaft being straight, only slightly increasing in diameter towards the end. The shaft is covered with a smooth yet noticeable ventral groove and some small veins. Especially on the King these features are very prominent and can be felt despite the softness and overall evenness of the shaft which makes the toy good to run. On the 2X Long, you can really see Scott’s artistic heritage being a wood sculptor: While all other sizes are proportional scaling of the original cast, on the long he interprets and extrapolates how a longer Leo would most likely look like. The changes are subtle but when you like me have the 2X and the 2X Long you can spot the difference and see how well & thoughtful they are designed.

While the Leo also is available with realistic balls, this version only comes in the original, 1X and 2X size which are tiny compared the two reviewed today. The King and 2X Long are only available the Harness version which has a round, flat base for using them with a strap-on harness. Since both are Harness dildos they can be outfitted with the SquarePegHole for attaching the dildo to all compatible Vac-U-Lock adaptors, for example on fuck machines, suction cups or to connect two dildos.

Leo’s Dullish Glans

Like all SquarePeg toys, Leo is made out of platinum silicone, which means body safe and hypoallergenic platinum is used to cure the silicone. Besides platinum making the toy body safe, it makes the toy easy to handle. After having played, you can basically throw everything at the dildo to get it clean: From hot water with dish soap to bleach, the dishwasher or even autoclave them. This makes the toys ideal for sex parties because they can be quickly and easily be cleaned and sterilized between partners.

Since Leo is made out of soft silicone, store him upright or laying down without pressure to avoid creases. Never store the dildo with other materials together because the plasticizers can damage the silicone for good!

Speaking of damaging your toys: Despite what the founder of SquarePeg says, I would not recommend silicone lube with silicone toys. There is a chance the silicone oil in the lube will destroy silicone toys. I recommend only using water- or oil-based lube with silicone toys, especially because they are easier to clean off.

Size Head Diameter Diameter at Base Length SquarePegHole FlushCup
XS 32mm 37mm 140mm
S 41mm 47mm 191mm X
Actual/ Life Size 49mm 57mm 229mm X X
1X 57mm 61mm 260mm X X
1X Long 57mm 61mm 330mm X
2X 61mm 67mm 286mm X X
2X Long 65mm 69mm 362mm X
3X 73mm 77mm 292mm X
King 77mm 81mm 330mm X

Leo King’s MASSIVE Ventral Groove

Playing with the big Leos

Back in 2019 I have already reviewed the Leo 2X which I loved a lot. Spoiler: I still love it in Long or as King. But my thoughts on playing with them slightly change due to the toys being longer and thicker.

The obvious thing first: While the 2X was still somewhat for the intermediate player, both the 2X Long and the King are for experienced players who are very well versed in depth play! Even with the King, even when you have a deep rectum, both toys will penetrate your second hole when you are about 2/3 (King) or half way (2X Long) down the shaft.

For this penetration you should have done some prestretching with a more tapered toy, like SquarePeg’s Sigmund. Leo’s glans which is almost a half dome does not gently, slowly open up the second sphincter but push it open a bit like a ram. But half-dome only covers 2/3 of the shaft diameter and it’s bottom lines up precisely with the bottom of the shaft. The remaining 1/3 is an almost vertical slope that ends in a bulge before finally arriving at the smooth shaft.

The Extrapolated Texture of the Leo 2X Long

This sounds dramatic but it is rather intense. When you sphincters are experienced, this combination of different sensations which a half-dome, a slope and the bulge create is very stimulating. Especially when the 2X Long goes deep into the colon, the feeling of this “rugged” yet smooth combination is an intense, new sensation. For example, when the dildo goes around a kink, the bulge massages the sensitive mucosa intensely. When you reach a barrier in your colon, you usually retract the toy and push forward in a twisting motion. But since Leo’s glans is so asymmetrical this does not always work. It can actually be counterproductive since the stimulation can cause the colon to tense up. But when you are relaxed and you deeply trust the top commanding the dildo, it can be very horny experience.

Twisting motion is also the key word for the King. With his MASSIVE ventral groove twisting him inside a loose hole, is a blissful experience. It triggers the pressure sensitive nerves inside the anus, stimulates the prostate and massages the also sensitive rectum walls. But in order to enjoy the Leo King thoroughly you need a trained, open hole. His shaft has the same diameter as a large Acorn from SquarePeg, just for comparison.  Having this dildo locked deep inside your rectum and colon gives you an incredible feeling of stretch and fullness. Feeling the stretched puffy anus lips move over the slightly textured shaft surface is pure bliss for greedy ass pigs.

The SquarePeg Hole which is compatilble with Vac-U-Lock adapters

Being such on the extremer end of the size spectrum, I need to say a few words about handling. Especially when going deep, I recommend to kneel down and ride the toys on your own. This way you can best control the speed and force of the toy entering you and your colon is most relaxed. This works well for the King size but the 2X Long due to its length and soft material is quite floppy. This is a challenge all depth toys face yet due to unique shape of the tip the Leo does not slide in as quickly and easily as tapered tipped toys. So you have to struggle a bit more.

Usually when you can get a Vac-u-Lock hole, I highly recommend you get it! It is so practical, and if it is just for a top to put his thumb into it to guide the toy. But with these large Leos, I am a bit torn. When riding the toys on your own, the hole in the middle of the shaft cause the lower section to become instable and bend away. To prevent this, stick a Vac-u-Lock adaptor into it – or become REALLY loose and open.

Where to buy?

When you order from Europe, you can get the Leo at Regulation for between £79.33 and £259.99 – depending on how greedy you are. Size and colors not in stock can be easily ordered by e-mail.

Saber

Form: Depth Toy
Material: Platinum Silicone
Colors: Whatever you can imagine
Firmness: Soft to Extreme Firm (not recommended)
Lube: Water, Oil
Cleaning: Soaking in warm water with dish-soap than use sanitizer.
Safer Sex: Clean and sanitize it thoroughly
Storage: Store in a well-ventilated place not touching other toys to prevent damage.

The OrganoToy Saber S und L

Vendor: OrganoToy

 

Construction

The basic shape of the Saber is easily explained: It is a very long stretched cone which come in two sizes, small and large. Both cones taper from a rounded tip with about 20mm diameter over 480mm length to a maximum diameter of 60m or 80mm. Below this maximum diameter both Sabers have a small neck before flowing into a sphere of the respective diameter. After a small taper there is either a small shaft again (Saber S) or it flows sand clock-shaped directly into the base. If you really want to take the Saber DEEP, you can insert 570mm into your rectum and colon before you reach the 30mm thick round base which on both models has a 20mm larger diameter than the individual maximum diameter. Into the base a shallow suction cup is molded. It adds a bit of stability but cannot rein in the massive floppy toy boy.

For all its products, OrganoToy uses ISO 10993-10 certified platinum silicone. This material meets the highest standards of body and allergy safety so the toys are 100% body safe and easy to clean. Furthermore all of OrganoToy’s products are also compliant with the new toy ISO standard 3533 2021.

Suction Cup inside the Base of the Large Saber

Silicone also comes in a wide spectrum of firmness from floppy to HARD. The Saber can be ordered in split firmness for an easy to control base and bendy shaft. Besides these properties, platinum silicone can also be colorized easily. So the Saber can be manufactured in elaborate fades, marbles or with glow in the dark colors. If you choose a split firmness between the lower section of the toy and cone-shaped body, you can choose two distinct colorations. My color theme has been “photon swords” with metal “grips” and glow in the dark “blades”. Both options cost a bit extra but are worth it if you invest into such an individual toy.

Playing with the Saber

First things first: The Saber is a bitch to handle, regardless of the size. It is one of the longest depth toys on the market, sitting between the SquarePeg Long Long Neck and SquarePeg Slink XXL in insertable length. Since the Saber should go around the bends of the colon, it must be soft, so the shaft is naturally floppy. The floppiness can be reduced a bit with choosing the firmer base but it will still be a soft toy. How soft – which Shore value – is best is highly individual and depends not only on your preference but also body. Some prefer a soft toy sneaking around the bends and “curling” up when there is a barrier, blocking the advancement. Others need a firmer toy to straighten out the kinks with SLOW and SOFT pushing forward! The firmer the toy, the more careful your advances down have to be. Otherwise serious, potentially leather injuries can happen! So for safety reasons never buy firmer than Shore A5 and proceed with caution.

The Pointy Tip of the Saber

This sounds more serious and dangerous than the toy actually is. With the relatively thick and rounded tip the chance of puncturing your colon with a Saber is almost zero if you listen to your body during pay. The larger diameter of the tip leads to an overall higher stiffness of the upper third of the toy compared to a SP Slink in the same firmness. Due to this the tip bends less easily. This is especially useful when starting out depth play because instead of bending away when the second sphincter tightens up, the Saber can stretch this hole.

What speaks against the Saber as a beginner’s toy is the length. The best position to slowly and carefully go deep is kneeling over the toy and controlling the thrust with your thigh muscles. This is impossible due to the length of the Saber. When OrganoToy releases an about 1/3 shorter version for more easily controlled play the Saber will become a good toy for beginners.

For experienced players, the Saber is a good tool for training depth deeper. Depending on the firmness there is not much difference to the Slink – until you are about to take the Saber all the way. The sphere above the bottom is a what the Saber apart from all other depth toys. On the one hand, it is a gauge for how for up your ass you have taken the toy. On the other hand, it adds a new level of stimulation. The steep stretch of a sphere triggers the nerve endings inside the anus and with a bit of luck, depending on your physiology it even presses against your prostate. Both the stretch and stimulation are not aggressive so it does not encourage rapid movements that could lead to injuries down the way.

The Sphere Section of the Saber’s Lower Party

If you belong to the few how enjoy the fullness and movement of silicone deep inside your body, the Saber is the superior toy. The base locks the toy way better inside you than any other depth toy! If you are in for strong stimulation, the Saber picks up vibration applied to the base better than other depth toys, especially if you go for a bit firmer silicone.

Where to buy?

Since depth play is HIGHLY individual, I would highly recommend buying the Saber directly through OrganoToy’s website. This way you can customize the firmness just the way your hole needs it. And yes, you can also choose the color. The Saber S starts at 99,96€, the Large one at 199,96€. Of course customization costs a bit extra.
The Saber is also available at OrganoToy retail partner. There are only a few yet but if you want to know where to shop brick&mortar or want to become a retail partner, send them an e-mail.

Butt-Hole

Toy Properties

Form: Tunnel Plug
Material: Silicone
Colors: Black and Red
Firmness: Medium
Lube: Water and Oil based. Silicone or hybrid lube can destroy the toy!
Cleaning: Soaking in boiling water with dish-soap than use sanitizer.
Safer Sex: Expose to boiling water to kill germs
Storage:
Store standing up in a well-ventilated place not touching other toys to prevent damaging the toys.

Vendor: Oxballs

When most people hear “Oxballs tunnel plug” they immediately think off the many different iterations of the Pig-Hole. This review is here to fix that! Because especially when you are a texture junky like me, you are missing out on a lot when you are miss the Butt-Hole.

Construction

Being a tunnel plug the Butt-Hole starts out with an opening. The rim is a thin-walled bulge. It’s the first of five bulges which further down increase in width and thickness. The diameter also increases so they form a barrel-shaped body which slightly arches to one side. Since the shaft below the last bulge is thinner than the bludge itself (duh…), you could call it a neck. But the size difference is not so considerable as on other plugs.

The Oxballs Butt-Hole #3

The thick base is eclectically to follow the shape of an ass crack. Like all Oxballs tunnel plugs it is “textured” with a relievo of the product name. Unlike the Pig-Hole the size is not embossed so you have to keep that in mind of feel it.

Like all Oxballs butt toys, the Butt-Hole is made out of platinum silicone which is 100% body safe and easy to clean. It only comes in their standard firmness and not in the softer morph silicone. Color-wise you can choose between black and red.

There are three sizes available. The size 1 is a bit smaller than the Pig-Hole Medium, the #2 a bit smaller than the large and the largest #3 I have bought Oxballs claims to be close to the Pig-Hole XXL. But having two different Pig-Holes in my collection (standard and morph) and playing with them a lot, I would say from the felt size it sits right between the XL and XXL. Though when choosing your size, consider that a textured toy of the same size will always be more difficult to take than a smooth one like the Pig-Hole.

The Cluster of Bumps for Stimulating the Top’s Dick

Playing with the Butt-Hole

The Butt-Hole is a fuck plug! And it works very differently if it is used passively or actively on the sub.

“Passive” use is putting the Butt-Hole into the bottom and fuck into it – either with a dildo or even better a real dick. As the glans and shaft penetrate the tunnel, it extends and even straightens out a bit, depending on the dick’s anatomy. This sets the bulges in motion and massages both the rectum and especially the prostate because the highest bulge has been strategically placed where the prostate is located on most males. Fucking an anus via the Butt-Hole is stimulating for the top. The cluster of bumps around the entrance stimulate the glans and shaft well. Like the inside of a traditional Pig-Hole the inside of the barrel is textured with lateral bulges which depending on the endowment also stimulate the top’s glans and shaft. So all things considered, the Butt-Hole holds all the promises a cock extender makes but rarely can keep. Except holding onto the dick via a scrotum strap. But since those never work on cock extenders too, the Butt-Hole is a good, unexpected contender in this category.

The Bulges Inside and Outside the Butt-Hole

“Active” use means pushing and pulling the Butt-Hole out of the bottom. Since this is a tunnel plug, you need to reinforce it. Depending on how intensely you want to make the bulges, you either choose a soft (SquarePeg Egg plug in SuperSoft or Topped Toys Gape Keeper respectively Chute) or a firm (SquarePeg Egg in Firm) stuffing. The less the filling plug compresses, the more the ridges stimulate the anus and depending on how you turn the plug also the prostate. But don’t let yourself be fooled, there is no real “soft” setting. Since the Butt-Hole only comes in medium firmness you can dial down the intensity but it is still a strong, stimulating ride for more experienced sphincters.

The barrel of this tunnel plug is short and tighter than on the various Pig-Holes, especially the Deep. So filling in liquids (or solids you pigs…) works a bit better than with his cousins. The Butt-Hole is also compatible with Oxballs Stopper plugs to keep stuff from flowing outside. While the base is somewhat ergonomically shaped to fit between ass cheeks, the stepping of bulges instead of a continuous extension does not keep the Butt-Hole as securely locked inside the rectum as a Pig-Hole. So if you want to plug and seal your sub for extended periods of time, use the classic instead this enfant terrible.

Where to buy?

Sadly, the Butt-Hole is not as widely available as the Pig-Hole being a bit of a niche design for experienced players. So you best order it through Oxballs directly for between $66 and $94 depending on the size.

Jammer 2 & Kevin

Toy Properties

Form: Stretch Toys
Material: Platinum Silicone
Colors: Graphite, Bronze & Black
Firmness: Soft & Firm
Lube: Water, Oil
Cleaning: Soaking in hot water with dish-soap than use sanitizer.
Safer Sex: Clean and sanitize it thoroughly
Storage: Store in a well-ventilated place not touching other toys to prevent damage.

Vendor: SquarePeg

Construction

The basic shape the Rim Jammer designed for the toy named after his is quite simple jet ingenious: Four elongated spheres with almost slightly elliptical intersection stacked a top of each other. They have the dimensions of 50x54mm – 54x56mm – 63x66mm – 81x83mm.

The SquarePeg Kevin & Jammer-2

The lowest sphere is slightly compressed with a very subtle ridge-like rim which has faint notions of Acorn’s prostate-milking bulge. This effect is even more enhanced with the slightly tapering neck above the base so you can really bounce on this ridge. If you really want to feel the full effect, I recommend what a friend of mine has done who recreated Acorn’s bulge using SquarePeg’s Putty which apparently they do not sell anymore.

Kevin can be best described as a stylized version of a realistic dildo. He starts out with a flat glans and a implied piss slit. According the drop around the glans he is probably uncut. The thick shaft is smooth except a very thin ventral groove. Unlike other “realistic” dildos the scrotum does not form the base but is made to slip inside the rectum for a massive stretch and filling. Because of this there is a neck below the balls which flows into a wide and sturdy base.

Detail of Kevin’s Glans

The basis for this review was the “standard” size Kevin. Friends of mine have the Little Kevin and the Big Kevin. All three toys are about the same except my Kevin. Both the Little’s and Big’s balls arch forward and then the shaft goes up relatively straight. On the medium size Kevin it arches slightly backwards. Sadly my friends did not want to part with their toys for a comparison shot so best refer to SquarePeg’s website. The arch forward helps a bit going deep because it arches towards your second hole.

SquarePeg only makes toys out of US made platinum silicone. This means the toys’ surface is super smooth which makes it hard for bacteria to linger and easy to clean. All toys are 100% body-safe and hypo-allergenic. These advantages come with a small disadvantage: You must not use silicone toys with silicone lube because in the long term it will destroy the toy. SquarePeg claims on their website that their toys are safe to use with quality silicone lube but I would err at the side of caution and only use it with water- or oil-based lubes. Colorwise you are limited to SquarePeg’s signature Bronze or Graphite in truly SuperSoft firmness or Black if you – like me – prefer firm toys. If you really want to stretch for purpose and are more in for the fucking sensation, I recommend going for the firm version. If you want a gentle massage, feeling full and feel the toy “wiggle” around inside your intestine choose SuperSoft (especially for the Jammer 2!).

A Dent inside Kevin’s SuperSoft Material

Word of advice when you get the get a SuperSoft toy: The material is delicate and easily takes on folds and little dents. This does not really impact how you can use or play with your toys. But if you are a perfectionist, this might annoy you! Taking pictures for this review, I noticed this little dent on my Kevin. So please keep in mind that the SuperSoft toys require a bit more careful handling than other.

Playing with the Jammer 2 & Kevin

Firth things first: Both toys, even if you choose “Little” Kevin are not for absolute beginners. Due to the flattish tips they require a relatively pre-stretched anus in order to go in. Once in, even in SuperSoft they require an intermediate trained anus to unfold their magic.

Jammer-2’s First almost Perfectly Round Sphere

The Jammer 2 is a stimulation machine: The almost perfectly round intersection of the spheres stretch the anus intensely and evenly. It’s like anal beads you can ride. But in order to enjoy this chain of soft stretching, popping and closing again, you have to be fairly loose and open. If you want it harder, go for the Jammer 2 in firm black. That is also my recommendation when you want to lie in the sling and have a toy fuck you with it. If you are not REALLY open and relaxed, a SuperSoft Jammer 2 will rather bend than go in.

This is also true if you want to use it as a stretching toy. In theory riding on the slopes, slowly opening up the sphincter to stretch the muscle towards a goal works very well. Practically you have to easily swallow the first two spheres in order for the toy not to bend away. Or go for the firm version. This dichotomy leads to several friends having two Jammer 2: one for training, one for stimulation.

The Stimulating Spheres of the Jammer-2

Kevin’s Glans Drop and Ventral Groove

Kevin on the other hand is a completely different game. He is far from subtle, almost brutish when his different parts go in. The glans is even duller than Jammer 2’s tip so even more pre-stretch is required. The glans and shaft have very little texture so the main sensation is feeling something thick move inside your sphincter.

Of course, letting the glans with its bulgey drop pop in and out stimulates the anus a bit. With a bit of practice, it can massage the prostate. Furthermore, the ventral groove – or shall I rather say ridge since it is so thin – can scratch the prostate when turned inside the rectum. Especially when your Kevin is firm. But that is how far the stimulation features for.

A Dent inside Kevin’s SuperSoft Material

The main sensation of Kevin is feeling his massive, thick and big balls bust through your hole! Their top is flattish so it requires a maximum opening of your sphincter to let these balls through. Accommodating them inside your rectum is an intense sensation! If you have a standard or even big Kevin, the sliding through the anus coincides with the dull glans forcing its way deeper into your colon. This combination of intense stretch sensations blew my mind the first time and too my breath away. Over time, you know what to expect yet you never really get used to it. Keeping the toy for extended periods of time inside your rectum takes a lot of getting used to because there is SO much material stuffed inside you!

SquarePeg does not offer canine inspired toys but if you are looking for a knotted toy from the, get the Kevin! Comparing it to other K9 inspired ass toys, the knotting intensity (and combination with doing deep!) is en par with the Bad Dragon Rex and Austin or Weredog Gage.

Jammer2’s sturdy base and Neck Below the Big Bottom Ball

Of the two toys, sadly only Kevin has a secure stand. Yet once you put the first sphere of Jammer-2 into you, also he stand firm enough for solo play. Especially when going deep (which depending on your rectum will not happen with Little Kevin, most likely when you take Jammer 2 completely and most definitively with Big Kevin) exploring the toy on your own while slowing riding it downwards kneeling above it will be best. This way you prevent too intense pressure or worse sudden popping through your second sphincter which can make you tense up and ruin the depth session.

 Where to buy?

Like the Razorback these hot hunks a very particular toys, not many retails sell which is a pity! So best you go to SquarePeg’s website where you can get the Jammer 2 for $159 and the Kevins in Little ($99), Standard ($189) and Big ($229). Shopping through SquarePegToys directly you have the advantage of their Shop@Home program where you can look at their toys in your home and then decide if you want to keep them.