Oxballs Ballstretcher

Oxballs Ballstretcher from Left to Right: Bullballs, Squeeze and Balls-T

Vendor: Oxballs (USA) & Regulation (EU)

This review is a reader request: It has been a long time since I have reviewed my last Oxballs ballstretcher and some of the toys I reviewed yesteryear have been out of stock for a long time. In the time since my last reviews, I also learned a bit through reader comments. Ballstretchers – as balls – are such an individual thing so it is hard to make a general assumption which model is comfortable, easy to put on or can be used for long-term wearing. But still, I have been getting a steady stream of DMs on Twitter when I will be reviewing the new ballstretchers I wrap around my nuts in my tweets. So keeping in mind what I have learned about reviewing ballstretchers, here are my thoughts on the trio I bought over the last couple of months.

How to Store Silicone, Rubber and TPR Toys properly

General information

As different as the three designs are, they have some things in common. The all have their names written on the body. While this takes a bit away from the clean look, I actually find it a nifty feature when playing with a new dom and having to communicate in bondage which ballstretcher works best on your balls. For cleaning after play, simply soak them in hot dish soap water, rinse them off, sanitize, let them dry and store them away. All ballstretcher should be stores separately like in a shape sorter to keep them from touching. Otherwise the different plasticizers can damage the toys.

Putting ballstretchers on can be a bit annoying because in order to create a noticeable stretch effect, they have to sit tight. To keep the balls from slipping into the body during this struggle, I recommend putting a cockring on first. I you do not want to wear a cockring the entire time, use an Oxballs Ultraballs. They are stretchy enough to be pulled over the junk again once the ballstretcher fits.

Detail of the Notch between the Middle Section and the Top & Bottom of the Bullballs

Bullballs

The Bullballs is an iconic toy by Oxballs. It is actually the first ballstretcher the company ever made back in 2008 or 2009 (there are conflicting pieces of information out there when Oxballs moved from only making anal toys to adding cock and ball toys). When I discovered my love for separate ballstretchers (before the, I preferred slings), the old model was already discontinued. So when they reintroduced it in late 2018, I immediately went out and bought one.

It is a toy for people with low-hangers, coming in two versions: The Bullballs-1 with a height of 50mm and internal diameter of 25mm and the Bullballs-2 with 55mm height and 35mm internal diameter which I have bought. At first the stretch was a bit too much but I could not fit my meaty balls through the 25mm internal diameter. So I recommend to try out which one could work for you before purchasing one!

Detail of the Bullballs‘ Dodecagonal Top and Bottom

The design is quite genius: While the inside is a round tube, the top and the bottom feature dodecagonal facets for added stability. The middle section is a bit narrower and round. This section will compress when the stretcher is a bit too tight first but is strong enough to stretch your balls over time for a comfortable fit. Also, the ring is a good gripping point for CBT though since the notch is not too deep, it can be problematic to get a good grip with lubey fingers. Being made out of platinum silicone, the Bullballs are stretchy and have a smooth surface so skin and most of the time hair does not get caught making it a comfortable toy to wear. While Oxballs says, it is safe with all kinds of lube, I recommend only water- and oil-based lubes because the silicone oil in silicone or hybrid lubes can damage the material over time.

Finally, a word on the look of my Bullballs. The surface is far from perfect with little dents, nicks and even surface tears. I am not used to this kind of imperfection from Oxballs! But when I purchased mine from Gear Berlin in January, all 10 toys on display were this way so I assume it was a problem with the raw material. Knowing the material properties of platinum silicone, despite the far from perfect look, the “weakspots” will still stretch without tearing and they will not catch skin.

The Bullballs-1 come in black, blue, metallic, red, yellow and cost $25 while the Bullballs-2 is only available in black, blue and red, each for $29.

Detail of the Squeeze’s Bulge for Added Stability

Squeeze

I call the Squeeze my “Training stretcher”. Because when a new sub come to me and he does not have REALLY tight or meaty balls, this is my stretcher to go to. With a height of 45mm and internal diameter of 28mm, it does not really sound like a beginner’s toy. But it is all in the clever design: First, there it is made out of FLEX-TPR which is even softer and stretchier then platinum silicone. Second, there is the hour-glass shape with thick bulges on the top and the bottom and a thin neck in the middle which compresses even more then the middle section of the Bullballs. Finally, there is a small ridge on the inside, just below the opening for added stability. I had subs where the middle section was compressed almost completely. But despite the FLEX-TPR being so soft, is will slowly extend and train sub’s balls. The feeling of it, is like a top softly tugging the balls. And with the prominent notch in the middle, it makes the balls easy to grab if he desires to.

As the name says, FLEX-TPR is uberstretchy but the surface is a bit more sticky. So it can tug a bit on hair and skin. To ensure longevity of the toy, only use it with water-based lube because other will over time disintegrate the toy. Out of the three stretchers reviewed here, the Squeeze is the only one not made in the USA but in China from Oxballs’ sub-brand Atomic Jock.

You can choose between black, clear, metallic and red for the Squeeze. It costs $18 at Oxballs and £14.99 at Regulation.

The Blunt No-Frills Desing of the Balls-T

Balls-T

Just like the Bullballs, the Balls ballstretcher come in two sizes: The Balls-T is 30mm high and an internal diameter of 30mm, while the Balls-XL has 40mm height and an internal diameter of 35mm. The Balls-T is a no frills, middle of the road flexible ballstretcher – and that’s why I went for it. The size fits most people comfortable, even over longer periods of time. If in need, it can also be worn as a tight cockring. Being made out of platinum silicone, it has all the advantages already described above. I either use it in situations where I cannot change the ballstretcher and the intense stretch of a Bullballs might be too much (longer bondage scenes or attending a Fuck Mare Market [aka “Hore Fair” if you prefer the common, yet way more softcore English translation] for example or to stack it onto others for an added stretch. Since there is not much to get wrong with this model, I recommend it to all people who do not have extremely small, tight, beefy or low-hanging balls as their first stretcher. If it is too loose, simply stack some simple rings onto it until you are ready for something larger like the Bullballs.

With being available in black, blue, red, neon yellow, neon orange and neon green the Balls-T is actually the most colorful of the selection. It retails for $22 at Oxballs and £17.99 at Regulation. The Balls-XL comes in black, blue and red and costs $28.50 at Oxballs.

Bad Dragon Wereables

Bad Dragon Wereable Magnus & Flint

Vendor: Bad Dragon

For many perverts transformation into an anthropomorphic being is a major kink. Part of coming close to their being of choice or calling is putting on gear which in a sexual content should include the dick. For that reason I have been asked a lot of times for an educated opinion on the Bad Dragon Wereables. So I got my hand on their Flint and Magnus to tell you all about it.

Construction

The construction of the two models I have tested extensively follows the design of most cock sheaths: The main body is a long sheath for covering the dick’s shaft onto which at the end a loop is molded to put around the balls for keeping the sheath in place(more on that later). The inside of the sheath is textured to massage the top’s dick while fucking, on Flint with thicker grooves while Magnus has finer ones. Unlike other cock sheaths the wall thickness is not even around the dick. Since the outside texture follows the design of some of the most iconic Bad Dragon dildos, it is sometimes thicker like on the deep ridges on Flint’s bottom or Magnus’ knot. The wereables are made out of soft silicone. So even Flint’s ridges or Magnus’ prominent veins will certainly add tantalizing sensations but will not be a difficult struggle. Due to the stretchiness, putting the sheath on is also easy, because it stretches well, even over girthier dicks. While the sheaths are made out of the same silicone as their other toys, the color choice is limited to solid colors.

Detail of the Veins on Magnus‘ Sheath

Depending in the model the wereables are one size only or come up to three sizes. I recommend getting a size with a slightly smaller internal diameter than the diameter of your dick’s shaft for a snug fit. If you choose one of the wereables with a closed tip, make sure not to buy a too short one! I had a chance to fuck with a medium David which was too short and it was an unpleasant and unpractical experience.

Flint put on a Dildo

Playing with the Wereables

Most of my testees – both top and bottom – enjoyed playing with the wereables. The extravagant colors and sophisticated textures add an enticing visual to the play and new sensations to fucking. It takes a few rounds to figure out which texture works best in which position. Flint was more appreciated in doggy style because the ridges massage the prostate while Magnus won favors in sledgehammer fucking with the bottom on the back resp. in the sling because it really gave the knot a pop feeling. Some of my testees used the wereables without a bottom and enjoyed the sheath as small and handy travel masturbators. Especially the deeper grooves of Flint are great for that and the soft material lets you control the pressure easily.

To put the wereable on, lube up the dick, pull them over the shaft and put the scrotal loop around the balls. I recommend lubing up the sheath afterwards after it has been put in place. Otherwise adjusting the fit becomes difficult.

Detail of the Grooves inside Magnus‘ Sheath

As good as the soft silicone feels and allows the movement of the bottom’s sphincter to be felt by the top, it is also the drop of bitter with this toy. The loop around the balls is too soft and stretches too much. On a well lubed up shaft it moves a fair bit. On the one hand, this is good, because the groves inside the sheath massage the top’s dick. On the other hand especially when the bottom’s hole is just open enough to let the toy covered dick in, it stays inside, sliding along the dick, until the pull gets too much and pops out. With guys who don’t have low-hangers, Flint’s wide loop came off during heavy pounding. Also, Flint’s tip is so thin, it sometimes folds down when entering a hole. So I would recommend the wereables for loose holes and not to for something to start out the fucking with.

Of course, the wereables are not only made for dicks! They are a good way to spice up dildos which have become uninteresting. Naturally, for a securish fit, dildos with balls are better than just shafts. If the dildo has nothing to put the scrotal loop around, the sheath must be hold in place by hand otherwise it might disappear inside the bottom’s ass.

Detail of Flint’s Scrotum Loop with the Bad Dragon Logo Stamped on the Right Side

Being made out of platinum silicone, cleaning is easy: They can be autoclaved, put into hot water with dish soap or vinegar cleaner, rinsed off, dried and sanitized. But since they are silicone toys, it means they should not be used with silicone lube. Since they are so textured, I recommend a slicker lube like Elbow Grease H2O Thick Gel which stays in place.

Where to buy?

Like all Bad Dragon toys, they are exclusively sold and made to order at the Bad Dragon website. Depending on the size they cost between $60 and $80 with no surcharge for a different color.

BenSWild Made to Measure Cockring

Vendor: BenSWild

For some kinksters a simple cockring is their entry into non-vanilla sex. It is the first time they are actively thinking about using a tool to improve their sex live and some start to wonder “If a good cockring can do so much for me, what might other toys do?” From there on, it is a slippery slope down the rabbit hole for most.

Because of that looking at read questions, cockrings are the most often asked toy category, even before anal toys and restraints. Most readers can be helped with one of the many good off-the-rack cockrings but there is a surprising large number of people who need something custom due to being too big, too small, too weirdly shaped, etc. Luckily I never had that problem but to get an educated opinion for this group of people, I commissioned a made to measure cockring at BenSWild this Folsom Europe.

BenSWild manufactures their cockrings out of solid stainless steel giving them a decent weight. The finish is flawless with smooth rounded edges and spotless surfaces. You can either have the cockring in polished or with a satin finish. Another surface option are one or two gouges, either round or v-shaped ones like I have.

While you can get cockrings with different surface designs from many manufacturers, what sets the BenSWild design apart is the shape: Instead of being a perfect circle they are shaped like a isosceles triangle with round corners. The advantage of this shape is it sits snuggly with little slag. This means the blood retaining effect is stronger while being more comfortable. I got longer lasting, harder erections and a bit more powerful orgasms compared to my old round stainless steel ring and a way more intense experience than from TPR cockrings like Oxballs makes them. The BenSWild cockring is so comfortable that I sometimes fell asleep wearing mine. This can actually happen more often than you might expect because the tighter fit means that the dick needs to be real soft in order to put it on or take it off. I probably have to get a new one because with my new PA piercing it has become a real struggle to squeeze the dick below the steel rim.

More important than customizing the look are the options when it comes to the functional aspect of the ring. For just 5€ you can make the inside of the ring convex. This makes putting the ring on extremely more easily, especially when you get wider rings. Since the skin contact area is smaller, the cockring can move a bit easier so it settles easily in the most comfortable position. The other options is width of the ring which can be chosen from 10mm up to a whopping 30mm in one millimeter steps. The width is important for a comfortable feel and to act a bit as a barrier for the cavernous body to erect against. Finding the right one is very much personal taste. A general rule of thumb is the more low hangers and/ or meatier the balls are, the wider the ring can be. I have a 20mm ring and am very happy with it. Other, cheaper cockrings are so thin that they cut the blood flow off in an uncomfortable way. This will not happen even with the 10mm wide version.

Finally, you need to figure out the correct size. You can either do it on your own using a tape measure to get the circumference of your junk’s base to calculate the diameter. Or if are lucky enough to meet the guys from BenSWild at an event, you can ask nicely to get the incredibly sexy cub who is the owner to measure you himself.

The cockrings which all come in a cool black carrying pouch are rather pricey, starting at 39€ and going up to 85€ for the largest, fully equipped model. But in my opinion (and in the many opinions of my friends who got BenSWild cockrings) it is worth the investment because they cannot only be used as a stylish napkin ring when the in-laws are coming for dinner but are so solid that they will last you a lifetime and bring you countless hours of fun.

Oxballs Shockballs

The Oxballs Shockball

Vendor: Ballistic Metal

Construction

Like all ball crushers the Shockballs has two plates measuring 189x129mm. The lower one is made out of 6mm thick black acrylic, the top one out of 5.5mm thick clear acrylic. In the upper half, there is a hole in each plate. The lower one of the entire junk, the upper one for just the dick. Both holes are nicely rounded and flawlessly deburred so there will be no unintended pain or injuries. To fit most dick and ball sizes, the Shockballs comes in three hole sizes: 31.7mm & 44.5mm, 38mm & 51mm and 44.5mm & 57.5mm which I have bought.

The plates are connected by a clear acrylic hinge at the top. At the bottom there are two M5 screws for pressing the top plate down on the balls using wings nuts. On the screws there are also nuts as an adjustable compression limiter.

Detail of the Electrodes‘ Upsight with the 4mm Sockets

Below the holes there are two aluminums clamps screwed onto the clear acrylic using three sleeve nuts. The nuts’ round-head are the contact points of the electrodes. To connect the electrode with the power box, there are 4mm holes to fit banana plugs drilled into the bottom of the clamps.

Playing with the Shockballs

The hinge is a blessing and a cruse: Usually with ball crushers your fiddle with two or even three pieces, always risking to pinch some skin. This won’t happen with the Shockballs. But: If the sub already has a full-grown boner it is almost impossible to get the dick through the designated hole so the crusher can’t be closed again. The hinge’s height also limits maximum squeeze to 18mm (and a minimum of 42mm). While that is enough for a strong compression feeling, it won’t cater to the total nut pain pigs who want their balls compressed paper thin.

Detail of the Electrodes‘ Contact Areas

So much for the bad news. The good news is: The toy as an awful lot of fun to play with. While yes, putting it on with a hard dick, especially larger ones, not having to deal with shifting, getting wedged plates made me use the Shockballs way more often than my other ball crushers – even just for crushing. On a more personal note, I also like the industrial look of the brushed aluminum clamps compared to the poles being on the base plate on other e-stim ball crushers which then feature clear top plates. Tough some testees did not like the somewhat obstructed the view on the compressed sack.

The e-stim sensation is generally starts out mostly smooth. But since there are only three contact points it quickly can be turned stingy when the intensity is increased. Since the contact area and mass on both poles is almost identical, the sensation is felt on both poles when connected to one channel of the power box. The most interesting/ deviant stimulation is putting a mass-rich counter pole (everything up from the E-Stim Systems Torpedo Large like the Stuffer or [X]L Black Collection) inside the sub so the stimulation is only felt at the balls. Then choose a program which alternates between the two channels (like HiFreq on the Erostok ET232) so the agony constantly jumps from one side to the other.

Detail of the Screws to Tighten the Crusher

It is general a good idea to put a flexible cockring around junk’s base to keep the balls from retracting back into the body. If a sub has smaller/ tighter balls, I also recommend to stretch his nuts with one of the many flexible cock rings/ ball stretchers from Oxballs. This way they won’t be squeeze through the dick or junk hole (whichever has more slack). If you are really mean, you use the Zapp or Volt to electrify also the ball’s neck.

Conclusion: Nicely looking, easy to handle e-stim ball stretcher – if the dick is soft.
Pros Cons Where to get Price
Easy to put on and comfortable to wear Balls’ compression is limited by hinge height Ballistic Metal $114.95
Quality electrodes
Difficult to put on when dick is already hard

Vyper XL

The E-Stim Systems Vyper XL

Vendor: E-Stim System

Construction

The basis of the Vyper is a rectangular piece of 8mm thick, black, polished plastic which measures 220x145mm. On top of this base plate two pairs of golden sheet electrodes are mounted, each sheet measuring 80x28mm. Using four 55mm long M6 screws a clear 110x110mm and 5mm thick plastic plate can be fixed on top of the base plate and tightened using butterfly nuts. There are two of these plates so the entire base plate can be covered. Depending on the bottom’s dick size, one or two places can be used to torment his dick. At the bottom of the clear plates, the same electrode layout as on the base plate can be found.

There are four terminal pairs on the top and two pairs on the bottom below the upper pair of a compression plate. There is a connection between the upper and lower terminals so even if you don’t attach leads to the lower ones, stimulation will come from the lower electrodes.

Detail of a Terminal a Screw for Tightening the Upper Plate onto the Dick

On top of the board there is a little eyelet through which either rope can be threaded or a carbineer attached. Since the total weight of the toy is 650g, it is a good idea to have something which keeps the Vyper from moving around and thus putting the dick in an unwanted location.

For more compact play luggage E-Stim Systems also offers a short version called “Vyper 2” which is half the size of the Vyper XL reviewed here.

Playing with the Vyper XL

There are two ways of wiring the Vyper: The quick and easy and the more elaborate way. The quick and easy way is always connecting a yellow and a black terminal to one channel of your electro powerbox. This way the simulation direction is left and right and you rule out any chance of short-circuiting your power box. For the more elaborate way, you connect the two alike-colored terminals above each other for a top-bottom-stimulation. In this case you need to place small rubber patches where the top terminals connect to the lower electrodes. Otherwise you will short-circuit your power box! While most premium e-stim boxes can withstand this stress, it is not good for the hardware. Also, you won’t feel almost any stimulation regardless of the power level. Furthermore, make sure that the dick touches the panel you connect the box to. This is especially important with less well-endowed subs.

Detail of how the Upper Terminal connect to the Lower Sheet Electrodes

After the technicalities have been taken care of, now on to the fun stuff. The sensation produced by the Vyper actually depends on the dick size. Since the electrodes have very small mass, the more of the dick covers them, the smoother is the sensation. This leads to interesting mind games: Either endure the dick being pressed more severly for a smother sensation or take less pressure but more stingy e-stim. When compressing the dick, taking it slow and not to extremes is wise. Ironically the cavernous bodies are more sensitive to compression than the balls so do not tighten the top plates to the max. It is actually useful to add a nut or two as a safety barrier. The sensation can be made a bit smoother using conductive lube.

Through the Vyper’s unique layout, it takes a bit of time and experimenting which programs wired which way works best for your sub. For me, programs I never found enjoyable suddenly made sense using the Vyper XL. Playing a little bit with pressure during play – like tightening the lower or loosening the upper plate to “squeeze” an orgasm out of the sub – is also a lot of fun. One sub even managed to cum inside the Vyper just from e-stim.  If you have a “larger” sub, taking single plates off opens a hole new range of play possibilities. Either just fry the glans or polish and sound it while the shaft gets all the stimulation.

Details of a Sheet Electrode Pair

For even more varied CBT scenes, the Vyper can be used without the top plates. Simply use rope or elastic bands to keep the dick pressured against the base plate’s poles while you torment the shaft and glans with (e-stim) pinwheels, pegs, a violet wand or impact play. You can even use wax though it is a pain in the ass to clean off!

Speaking of cleaning, after play spray the exposed areas with a sanitizer and wipe it off afterwards. If you used large amounts of lube, your sub came all over the place or through other means it has gotten completely messy/ dirty, soak it in warm water with dish soap and use a soft sponge. However, take extra care when trying. With so many little gaps and holes, water can linger and cause corrosion!

Conclusion: Unique, little bit bulky design for interesting new, rather stingy e-stim sensations.  
Pro Cons Where to get Price  
Unique electrode layout A bit bulky and cumbersome Vyper £99
Vyper XL £149.99
Great CBT board even without e-stim Especially smaller dicks must be placed exactly in the middle

Oxballs Meatplug Sounds

Vendor: Oxballs

Welcome back from the summer vacation! Taking some time off ToyTorture.com is important for me to get new toys and gather review experience with them, get creative and also enjoy the playroom without purposely use a specific toy just to get to know how it performs.

The new review season starts out with something a lot of you have been asking me for months: The 4th installment of the E-Stim Special. You can look forward to reviews of power boxes, anal electrodes and torture devices. So stay tuned and follow my social media channels.

To kick off the special, I am going to take a look at the Oxballs Meatplug Sounds.

The Oxballs Meatplug-1, -2, Sil-Plug-3 and Meatplug-5

Construction

All Meatplugs share the basic design: They are 80mm long and their base has a diameter of 15mm. On Just above the bottom there is a hole drilled through the base to house a 4mm banana plugs for connecting the sound to an e-stim power box. Above the hole there is an area textured with groves and ridges (or in case of the Meatplug-5 thin silicone rings) for better grip even with lubey fingers.

Out of this base the actual dilator tappers which looks differently on every sound:

  • Meatplug-1: 4mm tip increases over 23mm to 7.5mm, drops to 5.5mm over 5,5mm and then flows into the base within 26mm
  • Meatplug-2: 3.5mm tip increases to 5mm over 10mm. Afterwards there are 5 ridges 5.5mm wide grooves between them. The first ridge has a diameter of 5.5mm and then increases by ¾ of a millimeter each time until it reaches 19mm long shaft with 9mm which ultimately flows into the base.
  • Meatplug-3: This sound starts out with a 8mm half sphere which tapers to a 7mm thick and 5mm long shaft. This shaft extends to a 8.5mm long and 9mm thick bead. After another 5mm of shaft there is another bead (9mm long and 10mm diameter) and again after a shaft section a final bead (9mm long and 10.5mm diameter) until the dilator flows into the base.
  • Meatplug-4: After a relatively dull tip the shaft is smooth until it increases again with a dull yet rounded step twice. I have not bought this sound because it looked too extreme for me so I cannot say much about it.
  • Meatplug-5: The dilator part of this sound is a string of 7 beads with a height of 6.5mm and a diameter of 8mm tapering to 6.5mm at the connection point. Since the beads are not perfect spheres, the tip relatively dull.

The Meatplug-5 connected with Banana Plug Lead to an E-Stim Powerbox

All Meatplugs are made out of aircraft grade aluminum so they are supersmooth for easy and injury-free insertion. They are available in four colors: Polish aluminum (which is silver) and anodized in either red (which is actually a little bit pinkish), black and blue.

Oxballs also makes all five designs in high quality platinum silicone, then called Sil-Plugs. Of course these toys do not have a socket to connect them with an e-stim unit. But instead they come in two red tones and a yellow. My #3 is actually made out of silicone, first because I wanted to compare the different materials and second I could not get my hand on a Meatplug-3 in Europe.

Playing with the Meatplugs

The easiest of my four plugs to take is the #1. The tip is not too pointy to irritate the urethra and it slowly opens the sphincter just below the piss slit up to a reasonable degree. Even most sounding novices usually can take between 6mm and 8mm diameter right away. Just like in anal play, the sphincter needs to be seduced and slowly trained to open up. The plug design where the dilator tappers again after the maximum stretch makes it a good training toy for the sphincter.

Detail of Meatplug-1’s texture

The next toy on the intensity scale is #5. The blunt and large tip makes it necessary for the sphincter to be well pre-stretched (for example with the #1). But once inserted, the diameter does not increase making it easy to relax and get accustomed to the toy. Through the smooth bead design with not too extreme difference between maximum and minimum diameter the sensation of the sound being moved up and down inside the dick feels like a gentle massage.

Despite the sensible diameters, the Meatplug-2 is a challenging and intense sound. The ridges feel relative rough inside the sensitive urethra so the sphincter tenses up easily. But since the diameter increases with every ridge, it is always a challenge for it to open up again further and further when gently fucking the dick with it.

The most challenging one is the #3. While it is a little bit easier to initially take than the #5 due to the half-sphere tip, the stretch of the following beads is intense. 10mm and 10.5mm is really advanced stuff despite the gently increase in diameter. I am actually lucky that I have bought this sound in squishy silicone instead of unforgiving aluminum. I could not imagine how it would feel to stretch this diameters with no give – though I am enticed.

Detail of Meatplug-2’s texture

Despite their rougher texture, the #2 and #5 are not as bad as they look. Sure, they provide an intense stimulation but the grooves also trap a lot of lube so they re-lubricate to a certain extend.

When it comes to e-stim, caution is advised! Due to the little mass and contact area, the sensitivity should be increased very carefully. Also, since all sounds are naturally mono-poles, a second pole is needed for play. I recommend a conductive loop around the balls or the whole junk. Once wired up. each of my three aluminum plugs performs differently. The smoothest is the Meatplug-1. It provides the largest contact area and thus the sensation is easiest to control. The Meatplug-5 provides an interesting sensation combination. Whenever a new bead “pops” in, there is the stretching sensation but the e-stim intensity is reduced a bit. The stimulation drop is usually not noticed by the bottom but the intensity jumps when pulling out is quite noticeable. Just like with un-electrified play, the #2 is the most extreme. The contact area of the ridges is very small, so even the most delicate intensity adjustments will have significant effects.

Detail of Sil-Plug-3’s texture

When playing with sounds, there is actually only one right form of lube: Sterile water-based lube. A classic of sterile lube is KY Lube Steril which comes in a tin tube. But just like the sounding lubes offered by different kink companies as soon as you open them, there is chance of them becoming contaminated. The more often you open them, the higher the chance. So I recommend small sachets with contain between 3ml and 5ml of sterile lube which is enough to insert two or three sounds, depending on how long you use one sound. Because the urethra is one big mucosa, the water-based lube will be absorbed sooner or later. While this can be annoying you do not want to have a foreign material like silicone lube lingering in there after play, providing substrate for bacteria. So even if you prefer silicone or oil-based lube for anal play, I strongly recommend sterile water-based lube in sachets for sounding.

Just like using the right lube, cleaning is imperative when playing with sounds! The best sterile lube is useless if there are bacteria on the sounds. Since aluminum and platinum silicone are pretty resilient materials, I soak mine in hot water with dish soap and scrub them with a soft brush in order not to damage the smooth surface. After drying them on a paper towel, I sanitize them and store them away. Before play, I lay them out on a fresh paper towel, spray them with a sanitizer again, open the lube sachets, then put on a pair of gloves and as the last step, pick up the sounds for play.

Conclusion: Innovative violet wand electrode for a new, unique sensation.  
Pro Cons Where to get Price  
Interesting and unique textures for varied play Not many places sell them Oxballs Meatplugs $28
Oxballs Sil-Plugs $39
E-Stim capable
Easy to clean

Oxballs 360 Sling

The Oxballs 360 Sling

Vendor: Mr S (USA) and Regulation London (EU)

Construction

The 360 Sling is a new iteration of Oxballs’ popular cock and ball sling. I already reviewed several different ones, so it was a natural to also give the 360 a thorough workout. What sets it apart is the compact design. Measuring 75x60x45mm it is almost the same size than the Unit X Stretch. But instead of the Unit X Stretch’s thin walls, the 360 is made out of thick, bulgy tubes having a diameter between 16mm and 24mm. The hole for the dick has a diameter of 30mm. Below it is a 20mm thick tube which separates the balls. The hole for them is a 9x30mm slit. The half below the cock hole is a bit oblique so the junk is pushed forward.

Detail of the Oblique Design

As almost all Oxballs dick and ball toys it is made out of super stretchy FLEX-TPR which comes in classic black, discreet clear or Oxball’s new Steel color.

Playing with the 360 Sling

The big question with all Oxballs sling is: How and how difficult is it to put the toy on? Compared to the other ones I have reviewed I would say, fairly easy. As always start with the balls and then put it over your dick. If you got low-hangers or a beefy ball sack, getting your balls through the narrow slit can be a bit of a challenge. But for most dicks and balls the large holes give enough room for the junk to roam freely when soft so the 360 is comfortable to wear for extended periods of time. Especially through the thick tubes and the oblique design, the sling makes a big package and bulge. So it is an ideal toy for fetish play involving watching, touching or worshipping big packages. Naturally the package comes out best with underwear which hugs the junk like the Mr S logo briefs or their heavy duty gangbang jockstrap. Despite its accommodating design and stretchy, forgiving material, it is tight enough to restrict the blood flow just enough to function as a cockring. Through the thickness of the tubes, the 360 can work as a seal for pumping your dick when you are using thick-wall instead of flanged  cylinders which diameter are not too much larger than you dick’s diameter.

Illustration of the Bulge-Creating Properties

If you have got low-hangers like me, there is a bit of sad news: With just 20mm the stretch on the balls is too little. The balls being pushed forwards adds a little bit of bounciness to jerking off or fucking, but for a real effect you should at least add one or two other rings from Oxballs.

FLEX-TPR is a pretty resilient material so you can safely use it with any kind of lube, making it ideal for gunging worshipping/ wrestling scenes where a big package is appealing. Cleaning it is equally easy: Warm water, dish soap and a sanitizer after it dried will keep it in good shape for scenes to come.

Conclusion: Compact cock and ball sling which makes a great bulge.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Makes great bulge Stretch too little for low-hangers Mr S Leather $22.95
Regulation £19.99
Comfortable to wear over extended periods of time    

 

Duke’s Butt Masturbator

The Bad Dragon Duke’s Butt Masturbator

Vendor: Bad Dragon

Construction

Like almost all masturbators which cover the entire dick, Duke’s Butt has roughly the form of a 190mm long lashlight with a 105mm diameter head which tappers to a 55mm diameter shaft. The opening for the dick is 6x18mm which is just large enough for a comfortable entry yet tight enough for a hot grip. The front of the head is sculptured to look like the anus of a scaly animal, in this case Duke the Bad Dragon which has become Bad Dragon’s mascot. The shaft is textured with deep v-shaped ridges on one and slight bumps which are anatomically placed to support the fingers on the other side. This design enables a somewhat secure grip even with lubey fingers. The inside is rugged with ridges which run parallel and perpendicular. Behind the tight “sphincter” (approx. 70mm behind the opening) there is a small cavern which ends in a relatively high raised ridge on the bump-side of the shaft which feels like a second sphincter.

Detail of the Shaft’s Texturing for better Grip

Like all Bad Dragon toys Duke’s Butt is made out of high-quality platinum-silicone. Like all of the masturbators, it is made in the firmness degree “Super Soft” which is not available for their anal toys. Since each one is hand-made, you can choose from a variety of different colors and patterns. But naturally since it is a “soft” toy, fades are not available.

Playing with Duke’s Butt

Duke’s Butt works like every other masturbator: Lube your dick up excessively (But only use water- or oil-based lubes. Hybrid and silicone ones will disintegrate the toy), put some lube around the opening hole and since the rear is open and accessible, pour some lube inside it, and more or less gently put it onto your dick.

What sets this toy apart from all other masturbators I have come across is the material: If it is a masturbator without a case, it is too firm and I feel uncomfortably disconnected from my dick or if it has a case, it is too soft and floppy. The Bad Dragon ones (in the review process I had a chance of using Janine and Snowball from friends) are thick and strong enough to not collapse, but soft enough that through the grip’s tightness the jerker can control the intensity. The inside’s texturing is firm enough to stimulate yet gives in easily enough for comfortable play. The silicone warms up quickly to body temperature which made the feeling more natural and intimate.

Detail of the Anus Shaped Head

Cleaning Duke’s Butt is easy: Simply put it in warm water with dish soap, let it soak a bit and clean the inside with a thin, soft bottle sponge. You can even put it the dishwasher. For an initial drying, set it onto the head for about 4h until all water has run down and then on the side until the inside is dry. Store it lying on the side without touching other toys. Like all silicone toys, the surface is slightly sticky and it attracts dust list hell.

Choosing the right of the over 20 different Bad Dragon masturbators is difficult. On the one hand there is the internal texturing. Some people prefer heavy and rough texturing over smooth ones. Bad Dragon provides cross-section animations of all masturbators so you can somewhat imagine how they might feel. On the other hand, there is the headspace. Even if you disable the Fantasy product descriptions, some gay men have a hard time imagining fucking a vagina – even if it is the one from a mermaid.

Conclusion: Uniquely textured masturbator for people who prefer individual grip tightness.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Unique internal textures Can’t be used with silicone lube Bad Dragon $95
Grip of the toy equals sensation intensity
Easy to clean
Cool color choices
Disclaimer: This toy was sent to me by Bad Dragon for an honest and unbiased review.

Oxballs Cock Lock

The Oxballs Cock Lock

Vendor: Mr S or Regulation

Construction

The Oxballs Cock Lock is basically a sheath for a soft dick. The tube for the dick is approx. 120 mm long and has a diameter of 35 mm. At the front there is a round hole measuring 8 mm to release piss or (pre)cum. Being made out of Oxballs’ signature FlexTPR it can be twisted and stretched while putting on. It is available in many colors: Clear, black, yellow, clear red and clear blue.

The opening hole and the perpendicular hole for the balls are slightly reinforced, acting a bit like a cockring. Though, if you are not extremely well endowed like me, adding one of their many cockrings or ball stretchers can enhance the feeling.

Detail of the Piss Hole and the Ball Hole

Playing with the Cock Lock

Like with almost every sophisticated Oxballs junk toy, the big question is: How to put it on? The methods which worked best for my testees and me was pulling the tube apart, pull it over the dick as far as possible, then reach through the piss hole and pull on the foreskin until the sheath fits completely. Finally, put the balls through the lower hole. I would not recommend using lube for putting it on. Inevitably the lube will leave the tube and the dick, making the entire toy and fingers slippery and without proper grip, it is almost impossible to put it on.

Obviously this toy is a piece of fetish gear. Depending of the color is draws attention to the dick and increases the bulge under soft, stretchable materials like lycra or rubber. Materials with low stretch like leather will compress the soft material too much.

The Oxballs Cock Lock Equipped with the Funnel

From a more functional point of view the Cock Lock is an “attention focuser”. It puts a barrier between the hand and the dick. So in situation where the bottom should not jerk himself off (for example when getting fisted) but restraining the hands is unpractical (because he should huff poppers), it prevents manipulation of the dick, focusing him on the other induced sensations. A chastity top I know uses it to get his subs used to the feeling of something being constantly around their dick. While the material will somewhat rein in dicks trying to get hard, especially long dicks will push through the piss hole. This characteristic in combination with the fact that you can’t lock the tube onto the dick disqualifies this toy to be an effective long-term chastity device beyond being a mental reminder not to cum.

Detail of the Piss Lock’s Funnel

The Cock Lock is the basis for two other Oxballs toys: The Piss Lock Urinal Cage comes with an aluminum funnel which can be attached to the silicone tubes used to connect vacuum pumps to cylinders or Oxballs own tubes to connect the dick to a matching butt plug or the Chomp gag. The Shocklock features an electrode in the funnel’s shape with a 4mm banana socket. The funnel is quite fun for piss pigs though the diameter is rather small so if the piss pressure is too high, the liquid will leak out of the cage. The electro version is a monopole so you need a counter electrode encouraging the top’s creativity. The most devious setup I experienced was placing the counter electrode on the perineum just above the prostate so the currency flows directly through two sexual body parts with high nerve ending density aka the glans and prostate. If the sub’s soft dick is small, the e-stim version can be used to punish him: As soon as his dick grows large enough to touch the electrode, it will shock him until it goes soft and small again. As an added feature both versions of the aluminum caps prevent the dick from pushing through the piss hole.

Conclusion: Unique dick toy which keeps the sub’s focus on the important sensations.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Prevents jerking during scenes Does not really work for chastity Mr S $47.95
Regulation £44.99
Unique feeling around the dick Difficult to put on
Makes a hot bulge

Oxballs Slung

The Oxballs Slung

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

This toy is basically a triangular ball stretcher with added features. The stretcher is 35mm high and hole through which you put your balls has a diameter of 32mm. The material thickness at the sides is 11mm. The corners are heavily reinforced. There are holes in the middle of the reinforcements in which non-locking carabiners are housed. Their material thickness is 5mm and they measure 50x24mm.

The Slung is made out of Platinum Silicone which means it is hypoallergenic and while being somewhat flexible stiffer than the FLEX-TPR Oxballs uses on other products.

Playing with the Slung

Despite calling the Slung “a ball stretcher” it really works like a parachute. The carabiners are there to have things attached to them. Either weights or – for even more fun  – restraints. I usually attach each wrist or ankle restraint to one of the carabiners and the third to some form of head gear. The more the sub struggles, the harder his balls get tugged.

Detail of the Carabiner Housing

When I first considered buying this toy, I was skeptical if it could work. Knowing how easily my other Oxballs toy stretch for easy handling, I believed that you could easily pull the Slung off balls. But well, it doesn’t. I had a real CBT aficionado over who suspends kilograms of weights from his balls and we attached 8kg to the Slung and let is swing without a problem. It actually works a bit better than a traditional parachute. With leather ones the balls can shift so that the parachute slips off. But the  silicone’s strength and stiffness stretches the sack tightly, keeping the balls in place. This sturdiness in combination with the high material thickness makes the Slung good for ball busting. The nuts stay in place (and furthermore can be tied in place using the carabiners) and the wide rim makes a good contact surface when they get hit. For this kind of play I recommend turning the carbiners parallel to the Slung.

Carabiner Orientation for Ball Busting

However, the stiffness is also a problem when putting it on. You basically need three hands: Two to pull the strong silicone apart to make the hole larger and a third to reach for the balls and pull them through. If you have really strong fingers and are dexterous, you can tie off your balls tightly using other TPR stretchers and maneuver them through on your own while pulling the stretcher open. Also, unlike leather parachutes, the size of the Slung’s hole is naturally not adjustable. So if you have really tiny balls, you will just slip through it.

Being made out of platinum silicone it is quite easy to clean after play: Wash it in hot soap water, let it dry and spray sanitizer on it. Since silicone oil will disintegrate the material, keep silicone lube away from it. Also, silicone attracts dust like almost nothing else.

Conclusion: Unique form of parachute which works better but is a pain in the ass to put on.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Sits more securely then traditional parachute Extremely difficult to put on. Regulation £44.99
Three different attachment points Not for people with small balls

 

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