Pig Play Toys: Nose Hooks & Mouth Opener

Pig Play Mouth & Nose Toys

It’s beginning to look a lot like Pigmas
Toy for every hoe
But the prettiest sight to see is the piggy that will be
Choking on a pole

 

Merry Pigmas kinksters and perverts! It’s a holiday created by gays to celebrate that we survived yet another year of holidays among family and friends who have a hard time understanding our lifes. It’s a day to ring out the old year with sexy debaucheries.

The Classic Nose Hook

Pig play has been gaining some traction in the past year. There are a few toys out there associated with this kind of play. Which day of the year would be better to take a look at a couple of these particular and perverted toys than today?

Classic Nose Hook from Regulation (£ 19.99)

As the name already implies the classic nose hook is probably the most basic and iconic toy in pig play. 5mm grade stainless steel wire is bend into u-shape. The body has a height of 51mm and the hooks going into the nose are 16mm long. The clearance between the hooks is 9mm and 10mm between the hooks and the body. The ends of the hooks are well rounded and don’t have any sharp edges.

The Rounded Ends of the Nose Hook

In order to pull the nose back to get that snout look perverts into pig play dig, threat a piece of rope or tension strap through the apex of the body, pull it back over the head of sub’s head and attach it to a collar, harness or whatever bondage layout you want to incorporate it into. The more you pull, the more stress bondage it becomes. In stress positions, please be careful, the nose tissue is delicate and too much draft can result in injuries.

To call the hook comfortable would be an overstatement. But the long hooks distribute the draft a bit more evenly even though the tips dig a bit into the nose. What on a comfort level sets this hook apart from others I have tried is the small fillet. The hooks are so close together that they comfortably fit even tiny noses. Two of the hooks can also be used to pull the corners of the mouth apart for pathetic drooley face. Some pig players like to add a hook for each nostril to really pull the nose apart. For this the hook is actually too wide for most noses. Since the stainless steel wire is really rigid, you need heavy duty tools to bend the hooks tighter together.

The Hook of the Nose Hook Strap

Nose Hook with Strap from Regulation (£ 24.99)

If you are like me and are not good with rope, the nose hook with strap might look attractive. The nose hook is a piece of 4.5mm thick metal wire bend into u shape. The ends are slightly bent upwards in a sharp angle to go into the nose. To finish the otherwise sharp ends of the hook, a 6mm metal ball is soldered into the end. The clearance between the balls is about 12mm. Since one of my balls is off center on my version, I am pretty sure that the distance can vary one to two millimeters.

Onto the hook a 55cm long strap of 15mm wide bridle leather is riveted. The edges are not burnished or deburred so it is far from the quality of products made by Regulation; you can feel that this toy was purchased from an Asian manufacturer. Every 40mm the strap is decorated with a rivet. At the end a key ring is riveted onto which a small die casting swivel carabiner is attached.

Keyring with Swivel Carabiner

While the overall production quality of the toy might not be high end and far from the toys Regulation makes themselves, it is a functional. The spheres are the end of the nose hook are actually a bit more comfortable because they distribute the draft more evenly.

 

However, getting tension onto the hook is actually a challenge. Among my testees the length of the lead was too long for attaching to a collar, too short for attaching it to a harness. There are probably people out there where it fits perfectly. But in my sample of ten testees with very broad body types it didn’t fit. I would have wished for a double d-ring closure mechanism to shorten the leash to fit the piggy’s physique and play situation.

The Adjustment Screws to Fix the Teeth Retainer

Inspection Gag from Regulation (£ 24.79)

The body of this pig toy is a slightly oval, slightly convex ring out of sturdy polymer with internal dimensions of 75x67mm. At the top are 22mm long and 9mm apart pins covered with hoods which are supposed to go into the mouth. At the bottom is a 70mm long and 23mm wide grip. It houses a 12mm wide piece of L-shaped stainless steel. This sheet goes into the mouth and pulls the teeth on the lower jaw down. A small spring pulls it down for easy adjustment. Since the spring is far from strong enough to keep the strong jaw muscles in check, there is a screw to fix the strap in place.

In order to close the mouth, humans need to move the lower jaw. If the sub does this, he pushes the toy into the nose. Of course the screw only has so much power but closing the mouth is almost impossible and certainly very painful, making this toy very effective keep the mouth open. Even on a cooperative sub, the pins pins pushing into the nose will lead to a very piggy and somewhat pathetic look of the sub.

The Pins for Nose Fixation

The gag allows for the sub’s mouth to be opened to the max, far wider than a spider gag or ring gag would allow. The inspection gag is smaller and nimbler than a Jennings Jaw clamp and adds a more piggy look. So it is in the middle ground of effectiveness and handiness. For face fucking and deep throating the gag works well because it moves a bit and thus is more comfortable for the top. Just make sure you don’t injure the nose when vigorously fucking. One of my testee tops preferred this toy for manual aka dildo-suppported face fuck training. The piggy look of the stretched nostrils added to the drooling of the sub.

For forced rimming this gag is medium effective. Yes, the mouth is forced open but that tongue can retreat in the back of the mouth or block to opening whatever is opportune in the scene. Forced swallowing is okish. Swallowing with an open mouth is difficult and you have to pinch the nose shut for really force which is a but undercut by the pins. So forced drinking has a little water boarding to it.

The Mouth Clamp all opened up

Mouth Gag Clamp from Regulation (£ 34.70)

The body of this gag is still O-ring with 45mm internal diameter. It features little wings on the side onto which threaded rods are soldered. On these rods ride half-circles with wings. There movement is limited by nuts which ultimately screw the movable parts towards the O-ring. The toy is well made out of solid steel without sharp edges. So there are no unintentional injuries even in the delicate corners of the mouth – if the sub can easily open his mouth far enough…

Technically the mouth gag clamp is not a gag but a clamp. It is designed to put the lips around the O-ring and then lock them in place. Depending on the force this just keeps the lips open or induces quite a lot of pain in an otherwise not for pain play used body area. Even when the sub is a masochist, be careful not to bruise the lips as they are a delicate body are.

The Adjustment Mechanism of the Mouth Clamp

In order to put the lips around the O-ring the sub more or less has to open his mouth. Closing it will pull painfully on the lips. But since only the lips keep the mouth open, the effectiveness as a gag is limited. So this toy requires some cooperation of the sub. The only way of forcing his jaws open is grabbing them with your hand. This is a bit cumbersome because the gag is in the way of the palm. Yet the small opening is large enough to pour liquids and small solids into the mouth – if the bottom doesn’t block the opening with his tongue. For forced rimming this toy is not really made. The wide, bulky construction in top of the mouth keeps the bottom from really getting into the crack. He would need a REALLY long tongue to get into your anus.

Straight friends a told me that this clamp can also be used to forcefully keep a woman’s labia opened. The internal diameter of 45mm is not generous so I am not sure how comfortable a top could use this toy for penetration. If you play with a vagina/ bonus or front hole user and have other applications for this toy in this region, please write me!

Fetters Tight Leather Hood

The Fetters Tight Leather Hood

Vendor: Regulation

Making a good hood is an art not mastered by many! This is my first piece of headgear from Fetters. So I was curious if it could live up to the same level of quality I know from their other leather gear.

Construction

The Tight Leather Hood is a four panel hood made out of thick garment leather. The leather is soft and smells rich and delicious just like high quality leather gear should be. Through seams and molding the hood follows the shape of the human head. Below the nose are two small grommets which are large enough for easy breathing even in heavy scenes. The mouth part is reinforced with another piece of leather so it stays in shape over time.

The Nose Grommets and Pin-Hole Eyes

On the back from the neck to almost all the way up to the crown runs a piece of thin nylon rope through cinch rings. They are high quality and sturdy so they can withstand a lot of force when lacing the head tightly and/ or forcefully. A leather wedge below the lacing keeps the hair from getting caught in the lacing. Regardless if you choose the hood to be lined with leather or not, the wedge will always be an unlined, single layer piece of leather.

Besides the leather lining there are several customizing options how the eyes and nose opening are designed. The hood can be outfitted with a snap-on blindfold, a mouth cover (optionally with a pecker gag) and a locking collar. The range of sizes is quite large in theory, ranging up to a collar size of 20’’. But the lower end is at 14’’ circumference which especially for petit subs and ladies might still be too wide.

The Lacing on the Back for a Snug Fit

Playing with the Tight Leather Hood

As the name suggests, this hood tightly wraps around the head and follows the contours of the face without being uncomfortable.  Since the lacing goes up all the way to almost the crown, its tightness can be locally adjusted so the hood can accommodate different head shapes and sizes. Being made out of soft yet thick garment leather you really get the feeling of being encapsulated in it. For an even stronger leather feeling I highly recommend the leather lining. It is hard to put the difference into words but the feeling of the lined hood tightening around the head is more compact, more intense. While the double layer of leather shields the bottom a bit from the surroundings a medium-light touch is still felt.

To my astonishment the fit of this hood is very good despite being only made out of basically four panels! Even the nose section which is often a problem fit most testees well, regardless of the nose was large, wide or pointy. As with every piece of leather gear, it will adapt to the wearer over time so if the nose does not fit perfectly right away, wear the hood over extended periods of time and sweat and warmth would mold this section into shape.

Detail of the Four-Panel Construction

The level of gimpdom is determined by the features chosen. There is not really much to say about the open and no eyes options. The pin-holes of this eye option are 8mm apart. This is just enough for most people to still see almost unobscured. You can add a blindfold which is attached using snap buttons. This of course distracts a bit the clean, smooth gimp look of the hood. Despite being made out of soft leather there is a small gap between the blindfold and the mask itself. This gap is not wide enough for the bottom to see anything but some stray light reaches the eye. For a 100% block-out, I recommend a dedicated blindfold.

The open mouth can also be covered either by just but a patch of leather of a pecker gag. The snap buttons are strong enough to keep the gag locked inside the sub’s mouth even when he tried to push it out with force. The gag option is only available for the round mouth.

The round mouth has a diameter of 45mm. This is large enough to place even a large gag inside. But if you are well endowed it will probably be too small for your dick. Even when your dick is smaller, this hood is not really made for vigorous face fucking. The cutout is just the bare leather edge and not finished with piping. Due to the reinforcement of the mouth part, the edge is stiff. Over time it will get softer but especially in the beginning you can get a bit of leather burn if you fuck too quickly.

The Unfinished Mouth Opening

For the slot mouth I have gotten only second hand opinions. According to a sub from the UK, once the hood is broken in well, you can push a gag through it. But for a dick it is to narrow and uncomfortable.

The final option is the lockable collar. This only makes sense when you want a cleanish look (as clean as it gets with an attached lockable collar). Neither any of the friends who own this hood nor me did choose it because it limits what you can do with the hood. If your sub or you are collared, you probably already have a collar you want to wear with this hood. A looser chain collar might work, but leather collars are too bulky. Since the leather is so soft, this hood even works with a posture or a choking collar. So my advice is not to add the collar just to stay flexible of what you can do with this hood.

Conclusion: Highly customizable, high quality, tightly fitting leather hood.
Pros Cons Where to get Price
Tight yet comfortable fit Edges of the mouth (and eyes) are not treated/ finished Regulation £275 + options
Many customizing options
High quality leather & build quality
Very sturdy lacing with leather hair guard

Agitation Collar

The Mako & Tiger 2“ Agitation Collar

Vendor: Mako & Tiger

Design

What makes this collar stick out that it’s HEAVY! Without the lock it weights slightly over 600g. This is (thin) metal collar territory! The weight comes from its heavy duty construction: In the middle of this multi-layer construction is the collar itself, a piece of bridle leather is lined with firm yet comfortable padding which is covered with garment leather.  The garment leather comes in black, red or blue. The piping of the lining is slightly wider than the bridle leather so even when the collar is fastened tightly, the unburnished edges don’t scratch the skin. Below the lining two screws (not rivets!) each hold the flaps in place which house the massive, burnished steel roller buckles and guiding loops for the belt.  The belt surrounding the collar is made out of two layers 3.5mm thick bridle leather. The two ends of the belt are punched with two rows of three holes each.

The D-Ring with the Branded Protective Flap

In the center of the belt which marks the back of the collar a leather flap embossed with Mako & Tiger’s paw brand sign is sewed. It covers the thick 6mm thick stainless steel D-ring which is 45mm wide and 32mm deep.

What makes this collar an agitation collar is the grip what is sewed onto the back of the belt. It is as wide as the belt and in the middle also double-layered. When I first showed my testees this collar they are a bit puzzled that it was sewed and not riveted/ screwed onto the belt as a seam for them meant something that could come apart. The stitching is so high quality, the yarn to thick and strong that none had fears that things would come apart, even with the most unruly, agitating subs!

The Supplied Padlock locking the Agitation Collar

For locking the collar, there are two options: The more elegant one is the Segufix lock. On this version the belt holes are pushed over a Segufix lock pin and shackled with a standard Segufix lock. But of course any sub with access to a strong magnet and a free hand can undo this. More secure and heavy looking is order this collar without the pin. Then you pull the shackle of a padlock through both belt ends and close it. This way the collar is most definitively secured around the slave’s neck and you can use your keyed-alike padlock set you already have in place in your dungeon. But don’t lose the key! The thick, multi-layer design makes cutting through the collar with safety sheers or emergency knifes almost impossible. If you don’t have a key-aliked padlock system in your playspace,

The Sewed on Multi-Layered Grip

The collar also comes in two sizes: 50mm/ 2’’ width which I have or 75mm/ 3’’ which can double as a posture collar! When choosing the collar width, please be realistic. Because of the many layers of thick leather, it takes forever to break this collar in and it will never get as flexible as a “normal” bondage collar from Mr S for example. So if it fits too tightly between shoulders and chin, the unburnished edges of the stiff leather can scratch a bit, not to talk about the metal trim of the buckles.  When ordering the collar, you have to supply a neck circumference. There is some leeway up and down this sizing so it fits somewhat smaller and bigger collar sizes. But in order to work well, the fit should be good. So more than any other piece of bondage gear, this is really something the sub should own for a perfect fit instead of a dom keeping in his playroom as a one-size fits all. If you want to do the latter, 16’’ is the most common collar size. Smaller twinks have around 14½’’, big bears around 17’’.

 

One of the Two Roller Buckles

Playing with the Agitation Collar

 

Like many BDSM toys, agitation collars come from the vanilla world. They were originally designed to train wild puppies or control sharp dogs – the bio not the fetish kind.

Even “just” the 50mm version has an air of heavy duty around it! The many layers of thick leather, the big, burnished roller buckles, the big padlock dangling in the front (or the – ideally – red Segufix lock cap) creates an atmosphere of seriousness. This is also enhanced by the way it is fettered around the subs neck: Since the belts meet in the front, a kneeling slave has to look up to his master while he adjusts the two buckles so it sits right in the middle of the neck and ultimately locks the collar. Like with all lockable gear, hearing the click of the lock adds a lot of psychological momentum. This is even enhanced when during play the dandling lock hits the sternum. If you want to facilitate that, buy a long-shackled lock with a thinner wire so it moves around more. If you want to mark you dog visibly, you have to lock the dog tag also shackle because there is no D-ring on the front.

Example of the Many Bridle Leather Layers

Besides humiliating and restricting the neck movement through the collar, the piece de résistance  is the grip on the back. It really allows to – somewhat – comfortably grab the neck of the sub – either holding him back or drag him towards where he has to be (like a hole to rim or a dick to suck…). The collar distributes the pulling force quite evenly. Of course, it is felt strongly but this Agitation Collar is the most comfortable and thus safest one I have experienced so far. This of course also applies for attaching a leash to the D-ring at the back. So if you have an unruly puppy that wants to jump at people, keeping him on a short leash works well with this collar. Despite being so thick and stiff, the collar can be worn comfortable over extended periods of time.

The Double-Layered Grip to Pull or Hold the Slave

The “somewhat comfortable” is directed towards the dom. Being made out of STIFF bridle leather, the grip is not really comfortable to grab with its unburnished and undeburred edges. I tried to soften mine using neatsfoot oil but had limited success. Over time it will get a bit more broken in, but since it is double-layered at the center, it can only get so soft. At least the sharp edges are not a problem if you like me play almost always (leather) gloved as a top. A bigger issue is the width, especially on the 3’’ wide version: The top has to grab a 75mm wide, not really compressing piece of leather. For guys with smaller hands this is almost impossible. I have already given feedback to Mako & Tiger and maybe in the future there will be an about 1’’ wide bridle leather grip sheathed with garment leather. I assume especially female (pro)doms would appreciate a nimbler handle.

Conclusion: Heavy & heavy duty collar with grip to control unruly slaves!
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Grip & D-ring to pull & hold back the slave securely & safely Grip is somewhat uncomfortable 2’’ Wide Version $350
3’’ Wide Version $550
Great craftsmanship
Very heavy duty feel
Lockable

Breathing System – Capsule Injector

Vendor: VAST

Important Security Information

As hot and horny breath play is, NEVER DO IT ALONE OR BY YOURSELF! Every year we lose several members of the kink community to self breath play. No matter how much you think you have figured out the safety and falls backs, there is always a slight and sadly often lethal chance of it failing.

This especially applies to playing with inhalants like poppers or N2O/ laughing gas.

If you are curious about breath play, look for experienced partners to introduce you to this kink and its intricacies. Please just never do it alone!

The VAST Breathing System Capsule Injector

After publishing my review of the Basis of the VAST Breathing System (link to review), I have gotten a couple of questions if the Capsule Injector also works with other breath play setups. In short, yes of course. For the long answer and because if you connect it directly to a gas mask you need to follow a little piece of advice, I decided give this toy a separate review.

Construction

The center of the Capsule Injector is a small 3D printed t-piece. On one side a 6l rubber breathing bag is attached, opposite of it a 50mm long gas mask hose ends in a GM40 port. Perpendicular to these things a black anodized aluminum cartridge holder for standard kitchen usage N2O cartridges is attached.

The Packaging of the Capsule Injector (comes without cartridges)

The toy comes in a beautiful heat-embossed wooden box outfitted with cut-out foam to house the toy. There are also holes for 24 cartridges so you can store them along the toy. Along with the toy itself comes a GM40 screw-on adaptor for attaching the Capsule Injector to 20mm professional breathing system tubes used in hospitals for example.

Playing with the Capsule Injector

Just by itself the Capsule Injector works as a standard 6l re-breathing bag. Of course this only works in a closed system in which you breathe in and out of the same port. Most gas masks have separate inlets and outlets which are sealed by back pressure valves. So in order to use a re-breathing bag, you need to modify them. For the most common gas mask types like the UDSSR GP-5 (commonly known as the “Russian gas mask”), AVON S10 or FM12 you can easily find guides online.

The GM40-to-20mm-Pro-Breathing-System-Adaptor

This closed-circuit breathing is also a necessity for N2O play. It gets absorbed quite slowly so it needs to rebreathed several times. Working with the capsules originally designed to power kitchen whipping siphons is usually a bit cumbersome. The Capsule Injector makes it very easy: You unscrew the bottom of the cartridge holder, put the cartridge in, screw it tightly and the gas gets released.

The Capsule Injector attached to a FM12 by a VAST Rebreather

If you are attaching the Capsule Injector directly to the gas mask or use a setup without a valve between the injector and the breathing mask, a word of warning: The pressure inside the capsule is quite high and once opened it will rush inside the bag, the tubes and also the breathing mask. This sudden increase in pressure can damage the lungs. So when popping the capsule, the bottoms mouth should be shut and he should be exhaling through his nose. This is not an optimal method but at least a bit safer. A slightly less expensive valve alternative to the VAST Rebreather (for example if you want to play with a modified Russian gas mask which currently does not work with the Rebreather) is the VAST Breathing Switch for 129€. With this you can simply switch between clean air and the Capsule Injector so all the capsule pressure goes into the bag from where it can be rebreathed safely.

A common point of criticism in the messages post the review was that the breathing bag is firmly connected to the cartridge holder instead of using a GM40 port. That way the 6l rebreathing bag could be exchanged for a smaller rebreathing bag. The 6l bag is actually necessary because one N2O capsule holds about 6l of gas. Smaller volumes would increase the pressure inside the system (see above). So when playing with N2O you are kind of stuck with 6l. If you want smaller bags, you have to pre-fill them externally where the access gas can escape before attaching the bag to the setup directly which again is a cumbersome process.

Conclusion: Innovative special purpose restraint with practical shortcoming.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Easy and safe handling of N2O play Needs separate shut-off valve in order work 100% safe VAST 119€
Comes with adaptor for professional breathing system
Cleverly designed and nice looking packaing

VAST Breathing System – The Basis

Vendor: VAST

Important Security Information

As hot and horny breath play is, NEVER DO IT ALONE OR BY YOURSELF! Every year we lose several members of the kink community to self breath play. No matter how much you think you have figured out the safety and falls backs, there is always a slight and sadly often lethal chance of it failing.

This especially applies to playing with inhalants like poppers or N2O/ laughing gas.

If you are curious about breath play, look for experienced partners to introduce you to this kink and its intricacies. Please just never do it alone!

Some components of the VAST Breathing System

For years I have been asked to review breath play toys and I refused! I deemed breath play too dangerous to make people curious to try it out, especially on the own. However, the VAST Breathing System makes breath play more controllable that I decided to review it.

Controllable does NOT mean less dangerous! Breath play is always hardcore edge play and should NEVER BE DONE ALONE! Regardless of how much you think you have thought it out and how easy breath play get with this system, never do it alone.

As a disclaimer, I have been involved in the design of the design of this system early on. Most of the elements I am basing this review on are pre-production samples on which I have been giving feedback. Except minor alterations, they represent the products you would get if you ordered elements of the system. Most of my feedback went towards adding new elements (for example the screw-in one direction valve). While I try to stay as neutral as possible when writing about this system, please always keep in mind that the feedback of my testees and me has already been taken into consideration and thus my view might be a bit more positive as it would have otherwise has been. But as always I try to describe in depth what the system can do so you decide if it is useful for your play or not.

The Medical Mask Connected to the Rebreather

This being a system of toys, I decided to split this review in at least two parts: This will cover the basic elements and in a follow up in a few weeks I talk about fun but not necessary additions.

All that being said, let’s dive into the fun.

Construction

All elements of the VAST Breathing System are 3D printed. For the first prototypes they used a dark blue polymer because it was sturdier.  They have now found a black one with equal properties so you should get all black toys with the typical silky-rough surface of a 3D printed object. This manufacturing process also explained the price: Especially the larger items take hours to print and require a lot of polymer. Due to the small numbers these toys will be made cheaper manufacturing methods like die casting is not an alternative. So like with many kink toys you have the pay a premium for premium quality toy.

The S10 Upgrade Kit

Being 3D printed, all elements fit perfectly into each other and are air-tight. The air seal is supported by the silicone grease which also makes all parts move smoothly. Every moving part comes with a little jar just in case you need to relubricate. Do not use oil based lubrication for these toys! Oil and grease will damage and destroy rubber and latex! Since the gas masks, hoses and rebreathing bags for breath play are made out of rubber, you will harm these elements permanently.

The bigger parts and sets come in nicely finished and heat-embossed wooden containers. For easy storage of the individual pieces are housed in foam skips.

The Head Gear

The system is build around the NATO GM40 standard with a 40mm thread. In order to function properly, it needs a separate in and out. This means, it does NOT work with the popular Russian gas mask (though I think they are working on something) or the German one combined with a GM40 adaptor. With some 3D printed modifications it could probably work with the new British GSR. The system was primarily designed to work with the popular British Avon S10 or Avon FM12 gas mask. If you don’t have one of these gas masks, VAST sometimes sells them. But post-Brexit they have been very difficult to get.

The S10 Exhale Valve

In order to make these gas masks ready for play, you need to take the speech membrane out of the right port and on the S10 replace the left one with the Exhale Valve (49.90€). I have gotten this valve along with S10 Upgrade Kit (239€). This kit includes not only a stainless steel tool for – hopefully – easy conversion and the Exhale Valve but also a replacement for the front insert with a screw off middle part. Instead of the middle part you can put in different tunnels with diameters of 40mm, 45mm and 50mm or holders for the Fleshlight Classic and Fleshlight GO. This kit has been sitting around my playroom for a couple of months now but I have not used it yet.  As written above, the S10 and FM12 have been very hard to get and gotten very expensive. So I have not had it in my heart to transform one of two S10 I have gotten using the kit. As soon as I have gotten my hand on another S10/FM12 I will document the transformation process and link the article here. If you every wanted to facefuck you breath controlled, gas masked bottom or turn him into a human Fleshlight, this is the way to go!

The Prototype of the Screw-In One-Way Valve

Partly why I was hesitant to modify one of my gas masks was that I already turned my FM12 into a BC one by taking the membranes out on both sides and sealed the exhale vent in the middle. However, in order for the VAST Breathing System to work, one port must be one-way. So I recommended to create a GM40 screw-in one-way valve. In the first prototype I used for this review, the valve was integrated into a gas mask hose. The last prototype was as originally suggested by me an element to be screwed between the gas mask and any hose. It is not on the website yet and I don’t know the price yet. I will update this review as soon as it is online. In the meantime, write them an e-mail. This screw-in valve of course makes every GM40 two-port breath control rubber hood (from Studio Gum for example) compatible with this system.

The Medical Mask with the Mask Splitter to seperate the In- and Exhale

If a gas mask is too much for you, you rather wear a different hood or a blindfold instead of a gas mask or want something handy to press manually onto your sub’s face, the Medical Mask (19.95€) is the way to go. It needs to be combines with the Mask Splitter (99€) which adds two GM40 ports each one-way valved to the Medical Mask. To fix the medical mask to the head, VAST developed a Head Harness (69.50€) out of the extra strong Superior Latex. The straps are long enough to accommodate even big heads. Since Superior Latex is soft and smooth like garment latex, there is little pressure on the head and you can lie on it comfortably. The buckles are small so if you lie on your side, they are noticeable but not really uncomfortable.

Being a sensual player, this is the combination I use most with the breathing system. It allows me to look into my sub’s eyes unobstructed while caressing his head or nibbling on his ears. A friend of mine is really into sleek and slick rubber drone play. He preferred the medical mask too because it was the smallest addition to the flowing lines of the seamless black rubber cocoon his subs wear.

Detail of the Labeling on the Rebreather

The Rebreather (189€)

This is the main element of the Breathing System and game changer in breath play for me!

It is a 47mm tall can with a diameter of about 100mm. In the middle sits a big, remarkable smooth-turning switch which can be gripped and operated easily even when wearing thick gloves.  Into the tin’s rim the words “intern” and “extern” are printed. Around the tin five female GM40 ports are located. Each port is also labeled on top.

Setting up the Rebreather is quite intuitive: Connect the GM40 port labeled “Breath In” with the gas mask port for breathing in, the port labeled “Breath Out” with the corresponding mask port. In order for the system to work, the airflow passing through the mask must be uni-directional! Because of this, a one-ways valve on the breathing out is essential! Finally, attach a re-breathing bag to the aptly named “Bag” port and you are ready to go.

When your sub inhales for the first time, the switch should be turned to “extern” so he draws in fresh air. Before he starts to exhale, switch to internal. Now his breath is caught in the bag and he draws his air from there. Once he needs fresh air, simple turn the switch again to “extern”, the air goes out through the port “Air Out” and fresh comes in through “Air In”.

That’s it! Very anti-climactic and simple. But that’s the beauty of this system. In the past breath play involved manually holding shut hoses, pulling off masks or unscrewing bags just in time. Timing these time-taking actions just right that there were hot enough to kick the sub’s head but timely enough to avoid panic or even worse accidents was a skill which took very long to learn. And put clumsy people like me off breath play. Now getting the sub that sweet, sweet fresh air is just a switch turn away. It makes breath play more controllable and thus safer. Let me iterate here again that this doesn’t mean you can play with the system on your own! It just makes breath play easier so the top can focus more on doing fun things to his sub.

The Wide Range of Male/Male Hoses

Since the system is built around GM40 female ports, you need hoses with male connectors on both sides. For those who have built their breath play toy bag around professional anesthetic gear, VAST made a GM40 connector (18,90€) for those hoses.  Very rarely you can find GM40 male/male hoses in military surplus stores – most hoses are male/female. If you don’t have any male/ male, VAST sells those hoses. The nice thing about those is that the connector is disconnected from the hose end in a screwcap style. So when you turn connect the elements you just have to turn the screw and not the object the port is connected to.  This makes the relatively steep price somewhat justifiable. Another advantage of these hoses is that unlike the surpluses hoses which usually have the standard length of 45cm they come in length from 10cm to 105cm.

This is nifty because one disadvantage of the system is that the elements are bulky and heavy and adding a lot of long hoses doesn’t help (especially once you start incorporating other fun elements which I will talk about in a few weeks). So using short hoses keeps the entire setup at least somewhat compact. And from a certain point on it also becomes a safety issue. Depending on the lung capacity and strength, the sub’s draft can become too weak to pull fresh air through the tubes. So in order to stay safe, I recommend staying below 150cm total length between the point where fresh air enters and the sub’s mouth.

Detail of the Capsule Injector

In order to work properly, a breathing bag needs to be attached to the port labeled “bag”. You can use professional breathing bags together with the GM40 adaptor I mentioned in the section about hoses. Some kink stores also sell breath bags with a male GM40 port attached already. Depending on sub’s size and which sports he does, the average lung capacity is between 2l and 4l (extremely sporty guys or divers manage up to 8l…).

For more elaborate play VAST developed the Capsule Injector (119€). It is a 6l breathing bag with a male GM40 connector. Once attached to the “Bag” port, it works like a standard breathing bag.  Between the connector and the bag sits aluminum cartridge holder for standard kitchen use N2O capsules. In order to introduce the gas into the system, turn the switch on the Rebreather to “extern”, put the capsule in to the cartridge holder screw it tightly so the gas fills the bag (one capsule is about 6l so the bag inflates almost completely). Once the sub has exhaled, turn the switch to “intern” and let him rebreathe the agent. Since N2O is only slowly absorbed and thus needs to be rebreathed, this is a very elegant and sophisticated method compared to the other ways the gas is usually inhaled and rebreathed.

One of the Shut Off GM40 Ports

Very long story short, the concept behind the breathing system is a simple one: Using a switch to change fresh air to rebreathing. And a few gear enthusiasts have built elaborate breath play setup in their playrooms. But they are mostly stationary and not easy to rebuilt by unskilled and/ or unhandy people. So as far as I know the VAST Breathing System is the first portable, easy and more importantly safe to use breath play system. As a clumsy person I never felt comfortable to top breath play even though I knew the science behind it and theoretically have the skills. With the Rebreather and the accompanying toys I feel safe enough to do more breathe play as a top.

This review only covers the basis of the breathing system. It includes many different tools for forced poppers huffing, breathing the smell of piss or used socks and underwear, rebreathing the breath of a fellow sub. I will take a look at these toys in a review in a few weeks.

Conclusion: Innovative special purpose restraint with practical shortcoming.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Safe to use even in extreme scenes A bit bulky & heavy VAST
High price
Very easy to use Does not work on one-port gasmasks (S10 can be converted)
Many different add-ons for elaborate setups

Fetters Strap Face Cage

The Mr S Leather Fetters Strape Face Cage

Fetters Strap Face Cage

Vendor: Mr S Leather

Design

This piece of bondage gear is bit hard to describe. After a scene where I put it on an art major I once called it a “deconstructed hood” which has best approximation I could come up with yet. It is a system of over a dozen straps riveted together and attached to a collar to envelope the entire head. The straps around the head are made out of soft bridle leather to tightly follow the shape of the head. While the edges are burnished so there is no chafing, the straps’ bottom has not been treated! So especially with sweaty subs expect a lot of black lint on their head for the first few scenes. The folded garment leather straps as on the Bishop Head Harness would have been better. There are three vertical and two horizontal roller buckles on both sides. The have a large range of adjustability for a snug fit on almost every head size. The collar is made out of folded garment leather with a bridle leather strap on the outside. It is closed with a locking roller buckle.

The Blindfold and the Mouthcover with branded Mr S Snap Buttons

Around the eyes and the mouth the rivets have been replaced by snap buttons. The eyes can be covered with a blindfold made out of thicker bridle leather than the straps on the outside and soft garment leather with padding over the eyes on the inside. While the padding is good to even out the “high difference” of the different straps, it puts some pressure on the eyes and still lets some light in. The pressure situation gets better over time as the blindfold gets broken in more and more. But if you really want to isolate the sub visually, my advice – as always – is to blindfold your sub with a Mr S Ultra Blindfold before you strap the Face Cage around him. But since its padding is softer and the blindfold larger, even put over the cage’s straps the block-out will be more efficient. The mouth can be covered with a simple rectangle piece of bridle leather outside/ garment leather inside or apparently shut with a similar piece of leather featuring tongue suppressor. I learned about that option when I pulled up the product’s webpage to link at the end of the review. When I got this toy in September 2019, my Strap Face Cage did not come with it. So I am not sure if between then and now they added the option or if they forgot to add it to my order. Naturally, I cannot judge the play value of the tongue gag so please excuse this gap.

Detail of the collar’s D-ring

Another play feature are D-rings in the front of the collar and at the crown. As always with Mr S Leather they are sturdily secured under a piece of leather and riveted in place. They can take a beating and considerable force despite with a width of 23mm and a wire strength of 4,5mm being relatively small. The size is due to the straps’ width so they do not look out of proportion. Personally, I would have preferred them more “butch” but since they still do their duty excellently, there is no real reason to complain.

Playing with the Fetters Strap Face Cage

In the last review I also took a piece of bondage gear for people who easily overheat. This piece of head gear has the same properties. The straps are far enough apart for good ventilation and allow for enough sweat evaporation to cool the head in most situations.

Detail of the Roller Buckles to Adjust the Strap Cage

This makes the Strap Face Cage a good toy for outdoor scenes or events like Folsom Street fair. The head is especially prone to heat stroke so wearing a closed, especially black hood over the head can quickly lead to heat build-up – with fetal results. This limitation might disappoint some full coverage enthusiasts, but testees and play partners found some good fetish quality in the design. It has an archaic, Mad Max vibe. Exposing the sub while constraining him in a cage has great humiliation potential. Despite not covering all of the head it is a toy for a true leather fetishist. The soft leather straps hug the skins firmly yet smoothly and they smell like every piece of leather gear from Mr S leather.

Of course, this toy also offers great play capabilities. The D-rings placement is very thought-out. While the one at the front of the collar is pretty standard and naturally ideal for attaching a leash. The one at the crown makes the Strap Face Cage a good toy for tying the head down. If you make this anchor point the strictest on the head, there is almost no chance of the sub strangling himself. Since this hood does not restrict breathing, it is a great piece of gear to wear while sleeping. The soft leather in combination with the small and slim buckles on the side minimize the pressure for an actually mostly comfortable sleep. On the other hand of the softness spectrum, the rivets on the inside of the Strap Cage will intensify each blow dealt to the face! It actually made an experienced, masochist sub cry when his top gave him a backpfeiffe (it is a German regionalism you have to goolge).

The Strap Face Cage without the Blindfold and Mouth Cover

As most regular readers will know I am a sucker for sensation play. And this toy offered me a new perspective on this form of play. Usually sensation play is all about continuous stimulation. This twilight zone of stimulation and leather pressing into my skin drove me and my subs insane. We wanted to touch, the lick, the gentle blow of air to go on forever. But the was a strap in the way! Would the stimulation continue behind the strap or stop? This suspense, this play of tease and denial frustrated one sub so much that he safeworded. Of course, this only work with subs who have very sensitive skin and are highly receptacle for sensation play. For others, the space between the straps is too small to trigger the response to the induced sensations.

Conclusion: Combination of the bondage sensation of a straitjacket with great play access.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Unique design Leather straps leave lint on the head Mr S (Manufacturer) $289.95
Adjustable for a large range of head sizes
Two D-rings Blindfold could be softer
Presenting and possibly humiliating your sub without the fear of heat stroke

Oxballs Watersport Strap-On Gag

The Oxballs Watersport Strap-On Gag

Vendor: Regulation

Over the years Oxballs introduced several gags, plugs and even systems to turn greedy piss pigs into obedient urinals. All of them had their short-comings. But – to get ahead of myself – this one is a massive leap forward!

Construction

The main body of the gag is an US urinal-like shaped body which roughly measures 105x95mm; the bowel to piss in measures 80x72x45mm. Unlike its predecessors the body and the outlet is cast in one piece. The outlet tube sits at the bottom of the bowel, flanked by juts so the last drops gather in front of it. It is 37mm long and has a diameter of 30mm with a bulge at the end so it cannot slip between the teeth. Another important improvement is that the recess for the mouth now sits above the trough’s rim. So it can be filled to the max, the nose is still close enough to smell the piss but the sub can still break (and the top can easily hold his nostrils together without getting his hands wet when he doesn’t swallow quickly enough…).

Detail of the Trough’s Interior

Left and right, on top and bottom of the body are wings with rectangular holes. Through these neoprene straps are threaded. The each strap has four snap fasteners on one side to adjust the length between 230mm and 300mm to fit most heads. On the other side the four straps meet at the back of the head in an O-ring, yet again closed with a snap fastener. My recommendation is to switch the straps around because it is easier to adjust the length of the straps at the back of the sub’s head instead of fiddling around in front of his face. For this new gag Oxballs added another strap with four snap fasteners which runs across the head. It locks the gag firmer into place.

Detail of the Forehead Strap for an Extra Snug & Safe Fit

As already said the entire body is cast in one piece and made out of Oxballs FLEXtpr. It is non-toxic, phthalate free and thus body and drink safe. It cleanes easily and the liquids drip off beautifully, flowing towards the bottom of the trough 😉

Playing with the Watersport Strap-On Gag

The most important aspect of a piss gag are the performance KPIs: The trough and outlet tube have a capacity of 135ml if you fill it to the brim. While this does not sound much, the large internal diameter of the tube allows for a flow rate of roughly 3600ml per minute. It takes a trained piss sub with a good swallowing reflex to keep up with this amount of liquids entering his mouth. Since the gag is cast in one piece, there is now piss flowing out next to the outlet so the top can monitor how much piss is actually swallowed. While the trough is not too large, with a bit maneuvering two (slim) tops can piss into it simultaneously.

Detail of the Trough with the Wings for the Headstraps

The outlet tube has a very good ergonomic design. The diameter is small enough to prevent lockjaw even during longer periods. This partly due to the FLEXtpr being a soft material so the teeth rest comfortably on the tube. Yet it is sturdy enough to take some strong biting down to pinch off the piss flow. Also it is not too long to make subs even with small mouths gag yet long enough for somewhat effective tongue suppression. Of course, a determine sub can still block the liquid from entering his mouth but compared to other models on the market it takes more effort.

Detail of the Moutpiece

The new strap design is also a huge improvement. The wings on the side really hug the head. The two straps despite not using Velcro anymore and thus limiting the adjustability make for a more secure fit. The perpendicular strap improves the secure fit even more. But the more important aspect is the psychological one. The three straps for most of my testees turned a “simple” gag into a head harness, a piece of gear that enveloped their head. Add to the sense of drama and transformation when the straps are adjusted and fastened. This created for most of them a stronger piggy headspace, a feeling of being “turned” into an object to serve.

Conclusion: Effective and transformative piss head gear.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Design that prevents spoilage and makes blockage hard Trough is a bit small Regulation £89.99
Good flow rate capacity
Secure fit through many straps…
… with added mindfucking effect
Easy to clean

Asylum Muzzle

The Mr S Asylum Muzzle

Vendor: Mr S Leather

Construction

The main part of this muzzle is a 280x85mm sized piece of leather which has been thermally molded to hug the back of the head. In the center of it a 265mm long zipper embedded in another leather piece runs from the bottom. Both the zipper itself and the surrounding leather piece are framed with a piping to give the leather piece some structure while maintaining its flexibility and softness.

Detail of the Leather Piece which goes onto the Back of the Head

On both ends the leather base strap flows into two small straps on each side. Through rivets small flaps are formed which house normal buckles. The rivets also hold small leather patches in place which prevent hair getting caught in the buckles. Onto the upper buckles and anatomically shapes blindfold can be attached. The lower ones are for a mouth shield. Both pieces feature long straps so the Asylum Muzzle can accommodate almost every size of head from small to really large. Depending on the head shape and size the straps either run above or over the ears but since they are made out of soft leather, they are not distracting.

Front View of the Mr S Asylum Muzzle

All leather pieces and straps are made out of a double layer of soft garment leather. Except the lip which protects the hair from the zipper that is only a single layer with for unknown reasons the soft side faces the zipper and not the hair. Also, the little patches under the buckles are a single layer of a different type of leather that on some of my eight ones feel a bit “cardboardy”; I would have wished for a double layer of the same soft garment leather. But this is just the gear perfectionist inside me speaking. Especially the bottom does not feel the difference and the leather is soft enough to wrap around the head easily.

Playing with Asylum Muzzle

The bad news first: If you are not playing with only one person who has the muzzle adjusted to his size, putting it on is a bit of a pain in the ass. First, attach the blindfold in a medium setting. Then place the main body on the back of the head, wrap the blindfold around the head and place it in the ideal position over the eyes. Then fetter the loose straps n a setting that keeps that position and adjust the already fettered straps on the other side in the same setting. Finally, put the face shield over the nose and attach the straps so that it stays centered. Of course, you can do it the other way round but to block out the most light, it is better to put the mouth shield over the blindfold. Naturally, if the attachments are already adjusted correctly, simply open the zipper and put it on like you would with every other hood.

The Mouth Shield

Now that everything is nice and tight in place, let the fun begin. As complicated and annoying as the putting on process sounds, once the top got used to the design and figured out how to do it swiftly, putting on the different covers, adjusting the strap has the same sensual quality as adjusting my beloved Bishop Head Harness. The Asylum Muzzle is made out of the same soft material so like the head harness it needs no breaking in period but just envelopes the sub’s head as softly and tightly as you desire.

Detail of a Buckle

Unlike with the Bishop Head Harness, the covers are not attached using snap fasteners but are right on the skin. This makes the blindfold more effective and depending on the head shape comes close to the shielding of an Ultra Blindfold. The mouth shield almost feels like a leather glove covering the mouth and the nose, creating the immersion of good glove over mouth play. When breathing in, the soft leather is sucked towards the mouth and nose and restricting breathing just a little bit – similar to the Leather Bag Hood. Not enough to make you suffocate but just enough to remind you that you are confined.

Detail of the Rough Leather of the Zipper and Buckle Cover

Mr S offered the same two cover design in a full coverage hood, obviously called the Asylum Hood. The design is older and through padded eye covers and lacing in the back more extreme than the Asylum Muzzle. I had a chance to try out both and for several reasons chose the muzzle over the hood. First, I am a bit of a claustrophobe so I am more comfortable with the “limited” leather coverage compared to a full hood. The second reason follows out of the first one: The less coverage leaves the ears, part of the forehead, the front of the neck and the top of the head still accessible for reassuring pats and caressing, ear nibbling, choking and whispering. Third, especially at summer events like Folsom or when wearing other heavy gear like straitjackets, overheating can be a problem, especially at the head. The airiness of the Asylum Muzzle helps to prevent that to a certain degree.

Detail of the Zipper

If you look what I have written above, the Asylum Muzzle is a bit like a best of off my favorite Mr S head gear. And it truly is. Yes, it has some drawbacks like no d-rings to attach it to bondage points or restraints to it. But since the leather is so soft, you can easily put a collar around the neck after putting the muzzle on. Or even put another muzzle or head harness over it. If you are not using both covers and the sub is an active one, flinging around his head, the buckles flap around which can be annoying. But I still love the sensual qualities, the perfect equilibrium of isolation and confinement and accessibilities so much that I gladly overlook the weak points of an otherwise unique and great piece of bondage gear.

Conclusion: Sensual, versatile and effective piece of head gear with small flaws.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Effective cover of eve and mouth Difficult to put on to new subs Mr S Leather $309.95
Even with all covers attached, leaves parts of the head accessible for play No roller buckles
Sometimes rough leather side is placed inconveniently

When not using all covers, unused buckles are inconvenient

Sensual experience putting it on
Glove over mouth effect
Collars and other pieces of head gear can be worn over it

 

Leather Open Chin Hood No 2411

The Parus Open Chin Hood

Vendor: Parus

Construction

The hood has a roughly anatomic shape with grommets at the bottom of the nose and a big cut-out for the mouth and the chin. It is made out of soft, fine-grain leather. Because the leather is not lined on the inside, it is very flexible and when tightened really hugs the skull. The construction is a traditional four-panel construction with seams in the middle and one running over each ear. Production-quality-wise this hood follows the high standards you can expect from Parus: All edges are finished with piping so the rough leather edge can’t irritate the skin or be felt uncomfortable; at the seams the leather has been folded, the fold sown together and the flaps sowed onto the body so there are also no rough edges there. To fetter the hood on the sub’s head, you lace it with a piece of leather string. There even is a piece of leather to cover the gap so even bigger heads are completely encapsulated in leather.

While I have bought this hood in classical all black leather, Parus offer this hood in many different colors and with contrast color panels. There is also a version with an attached collar which has a D-ring on the front and can be locked.

Detail of the Mouth Opening, the Breathing Grommets and the Piping and Seam Build Quality

Playing with the Open Chin Hood

The open chin is one of the classic hood designs out there. It not only robs the sub of his sight, leaving him at the mercy of his master, but unlike just using a blind fold, the encapsulation of the face in leather takes away the individuality and just leaves a mouth.

This reduction to just being a serving mouth is a hot turn-on for people. In my circle of friends this hood quickly become popular for leather gimps: While a full hood covers the entire head, it leaves the sub “useless”. With the open chin hood a gag can seal the mouth when not in used and easily be accessed again. One testee uses this Parus hood when bringing new subs into the gimp scene. From a head-harness over muzzle and hood with open eyes and mouth, the open chin hood is the last hood before the completely closed one. The large opening allows for unconstructed breathing so if the sub in training starts to panic, he can not only get fresh air easily but can be comforted by the touch of his master with leather separating them.

Detail of the Lacing at the Back

The most common types of play this hood can be used for are face-fucking and all kinds of tongue worship play, boot-worship and sneaker cleaning.  Unlike similar hoods from other manufacturers the opening for the chin of this Parus model is large enough to not constrict the chin, so the mouth can open up really wide. So taking the entire tip of the boot into the mouth or serving thick dicks is only limited by the sub’s jaw.

For leather fetishists, the open chin hood is a great toy for glove over mouth play. The grommets are easy to cover with a leather glove and the leather around the nose is soft enough for squeezing the nose that the breath play aspect of GoM play can easily be done. Furthermore it is a great mindfuck to have the last piece of bare skin gradually covered by soft leather until the entire head is wrapped in it.

A friend of mine got the yellow version of this hood and uses it for piss play, especially in party situations where his sub is reduced to being the courtesy urinal. While the hood works for this kind of play, I do not recommend it. The high salt-level of piss is bad for the leather. I would recommend getting a rubber hood for this kind of scenes.

Conclusion: Well made hood with isolation qualities which still leaves the mouth usable.  
Pro Cons Where to get Price  
Attention to detail makes this hood comfortable to wear over extended periods of time   Parus 129.99€
139.99€ (either different color or contrast color)
High quality leather
Even larger heads can be covered completely in leather 155.00€ (locking collar)

 

Padded Posture Collar

The Regulation Padded Posture Collar

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

The actual collar is a piece of leather which is roughly anatomically shaped to follow the jaw line on the top and create a support around the sternum. The minimum width of the collar is 100mm so it is quite restricting through its sheer height. Onto the collar an anatomically shaped rest for keeping the chin from moving is riveted.

All pieces are made out of stiff bridle leather so it is really restricting. The edges are burnished and dyed so despite the stiffness the collar is comfortable to wear (leaving out the stress bondage aspect). Regulation calls this collar “padded” and technical I have to agree: Below the soft garment leather lining there is a thin, stiff layer of foam padding. However it is far from the lavish padding on their other premium bondage equipment. Thicker padding would actually compromise the purpose of this collar because it would give in to movement limiting the restricting aspect.

Detail of the Posture Collar’s Anatomic Shape

The collar comes in two sizes: M for a collar circumference between 37cm and 46cm; L for between 45cm and 51cm. It is closed by two 32mm wide leather belts with roller buckles and is equipped with three D-rings: one in the front and one on each side.

Playing with the Posture Collar

As the name of this piece of bondage already tells: It is designed to keep the head in a certain position and it does it really well. Of cause there is a little room for movement because leather is not steel and even the strict riveting allows for a little wiggle room. However it is the most strict posture collar I have come cross yet thus it is fitting gear for stress bondage. And while it is comfortable to wear over extended periods of time through the great production and material quality, keep in mind that forcing any limb or joint to remain in one position for extended periods of time will make it go stiff. This in combination with the head being rather heavy requires a lot of attention and support when taking the collar off the sub’s neck. Otherwise something similar to whiplash can happen.

Detail of the Rollar Buckle and the Custom Locking Posts

The three D-rings are ideal for “traditional” bondage positions: Attach a leash to the front one and wrist restraints or bondage mitts to the side ones. A handler friend of mine gives his dog elbow and knee pads, fetters his legs with the Fetters Heavy Hogtie Set, clip the bondage mitts to the posture collar and leads his K9 around this way for a more intense animal play headspace. Another top friend of mine attached short leashes to the side D-rings to have something to hold onto while face-fucking his boy who could not turn his head away.

Detail of the Burnished and Dyed Edges and the Padding

Especially on Tumblr I have seen pictures of people incorporating this posture collar into (rope) bondage layouts to completely immobilize a sub. While this collar is good for keeping the sub’s head from moving, the rest of the bondage layout should be equally tight or even tighter. Otherwise the sub might be able to get up and strangle himself.

When I ordered my collar I had it custom made with added locking posts. Especially when it comes to such an intense piece of (stress) bondage gear, hearing the locks lick and the inescapability sink in is a big mindfuck! If you are interested in that option, simply write it as a comment in the ordering process.

Conclusion: Very well made and very strict (stress) bondage collar.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Reliably keeps the head from almost moving at all Off the rack without locking posts Regulation £199.99
Very well made with attention to detail out of high quality leather
Three D-rings