Kategorie-Archiv: Head Gear

The Parus Open Chin Hood

Vendor: Parus

Construction

The hood has a roughly anatomic shape with grommets at the bottom of the nose and a big cut-out for the mouth and the chin. It is made out of soft, fine-grain leather. Because the leather is not lined on the inside, it is very flexible and when tightened really hugs the skull. The construction is a traditional four-panel construction with seams in the middle and one running over each ear. Production-quality-wise this hood follows the high standards you can expect from Parus: All edges are finished with piping so the rough leather edge can’t irritate the skin or be felt uncomfortable; at the seams the leather has been folded, the fold sown together and the flaps sowed onto the body so there are also no rough edges there. To fetter the hood on the sub’s head, you lace it with a piece of leather string. There even is a piece of leather to cover the gap so even bigger heads are completely encapsulated in leather.

While I have bought this hood in classical all black leather, Parus offer this hood in many different colors and with contrast color panels. There is also a version with an attached collar which has a D-ring on the front and can be locked.

Detail of the Mouth Opening, the Breathing Grommets and the Piping and Seam Build Quality

Playing with the Open Chin Hood

The open chin is one of the classic hood designs out there. It not only robs the sub of his sight, leaving him at the mercy of his master, but unlike just using a blind fold, the encapsulation of the face in leather takes away the individuality and just leaves a mouth.

This reduction to just being a serving mouth is a hot turn-on for people. In my circle of friends this hood quickly become popular for leather gimps: While a full hood covers the entire head, it leaves the sub “useless”. With the open chin hood a gag can seal the mouth when not in used and easily be accessed again. One testee uses this Parus hood when bringing new subs into the gimp scene. From a head-harness over muzzle and hood with open eyes and mouth, the open chin hood is the last hood before the completely closed one. The large opening allows for unconstructed breathing so if the sub in training starts to panic, he can not only get fresh air easily but can be comforted by the touch of his master with leather separating them.

Detail of the Lacing at the Back

The most common types of play this hood can be used for are face-fucking and all kinds of tongue worship play, boot-worship and sneaker cleaning.  Unlike similar hoods from other manufacturers the opening for the chin of this Parus model is large enough to not constrict the chin, so the mouth can open up really wide. So taking the entire tip of the boot into the mouth or serving thick dicks is only limited by the sub’s jaw.

For leather fetishists, the open chin hood is a great toy for glove over mouth play. The grommets are easy to cover with a leather glove and the leather around the nose is soft enough for squeezing the nose that the breath play aspect of GoM play can easily be done. Furthermore it is a great mindfuck to have the last piece of bare skin gradually covered by soft leather until the entire head is wrapped in it.

A friend of mine got the yellow version of this hood and uses it for piss play, especially in party situations where his sub is reduced to being the courtesy urinal. While the hood works for this kind of play, I do not recommend it. The high salt-level of piss is bad for the leather. I would recommend getting a rubber hood for this kind of scenes.

Vendor: Parus

The Parus Isolation Hood No 2406

Construction

The hood is made out of a single layer of soft European sourced leather. There is thick padding covered with soft leather from behind the ears to the nasal bridge covering both half of the face. From the part all the way down there is lacing to close the hood tightly. To fetter the hood even tighter around the head there are four belts with roller buckles running through riveted leather loops: One around the neck, one over the mouth, one over the eyes and one running from the chin over the back of the head. At the middle of the collar, at the top of the hood and one on each cheek there is a welded D-ring. At the bottom of the nose there are two grommets to allow easy breathing.

The hood is one size fits all. Even though my head is average size the leather strap to lace the hood is too short but it was easily replaced with a longer one. Despite the leather being soft through the sturdy and thus stiff belts and thick padding the hood is rather stiff. In order to mould the hood to the sub’s head and make it soft and comfortable it takes a couple of hours. The body heat and sweat will do the rest.

Detail of the Lacing and the Roller Buckle of the Belts

Playing with the Parus Isolation Hood

With the lacing and the belts the hood can really be fettered heavily onto the head. Despite the little amount of light which bleeds through the nose grommets once you start lacing you quickly feel the world around you being blocked out. So some people who are not used to such intense bondage start to panic right away. In this case I recommend only using the belts to slowly accustom them to the sensation. But once you get used to it, being put into the hood becomes an intriguing part of the scene itself. While the soft, high quality leather is getting wrapped tighter around the head it emits a rich smell. So there is a feeling of being immersed in leather.

Detail of the D-ring and the rivetes Leather Loops

Like all isolation hood it doesn’t take away all the senses. But the padding muffles the sounds (to block out even more use earplugs) and creates the right amount of pressure. Not uncomfortable or putting pressure on the eyes but noticeable enough to create a strong bondage sensation. This in combination with the lack of sight creates a feeling of detachment from the surrounding. For a full immersion the hood needs to be made soft like described above. When the leather is still a bit stiff there can be light coming through the nose grommets. But once the hood becomes a little bit more flexible the padding over the eyes shuts the light out.

The loss of sight and heaving with the warmth and pressure sensation can lead to disorientation of subs. So I recommend not fettering them standing up without having something to hold onto respectively being tied to something. Especially when lying down the D-rings can be used to tie the head down completely. When doing so the top D-ring should be the one tied the strongest so that sub doesn’t suffocate when struggling.