Lederbondage Leather Sleepsack

Vendor: Lederbondage.com

Let’s start this review with a bit of German leather history: About 1 ½ decades ago, there was a kinky leather craftsman working for VW in Wolfsburg. By day he clad car interiors in leather, by night he crafted some exceptional pieces of bondage gear – including as far as I know ten sleepsacks which are called “VW sleepsacks” by their owners. I could not find out for what reason but this guy stopped making gear over a decade ago.

The Lederbondage.com Leather Sleepsack

Fast forward to the nowish time. One of my closest friends happens to own one of those sleepsacks. He knew I wanted one for my playroom so he got in touch with my other friends and they pooled for the birthday gift. He got in touch with a local leather tailor, sent his sleepsack as a sample, got my measurements and asked what features my ideal sleepsack should have and now after 2 ¼ years and many messages, I am reviewing one of the signature pieces of bondage gear in my playroom.

Detail of the Collar with the V-neck opening and Locking Roller Buckle

Construction

The cocoon-like body of the sleepsack is made out of 1.4mm thick medium-grain cow hide which is really soft. The entire sleepsack is lined with this hide so you end up with an almost 3mm thick layer of leather. But since the leather is so soft, is does not feel stiff but just hugs the sub’s body.

What now follows is all individually bespoke and can be crafted to your desires and needs. I went for a traditional neck to foot zipper. It is the easiest way to get into a sleepsack and especially in long-term scenarios more comfortable than to lay on a back zipper. I chose five runner for my zipper to create different opening for the crotch for example. To be honest, in all the play I had with the sleepsack, I only needed three runner (one to close, two to open up the crotch), because I ordered my sleepsack with tit flaps for easy nipple access. They measure 13x13cm on the outside with giving access to an area of 10x10cm and are attached using Velcro. The inside is smooth leather but I am sure you can also get it with spikes and pins for continuous stimulation.

Detail of the D-rings of Rope Tightening

I chose several means to increase the bondage and leather encapsulation sensation. First, there is the collar. It is attached to the sleepsack with a wide v-neck in the front so it ends with my jaw line without being uncomfortable around the neck. Through this design there is no gap between a hood and the sleepsack and if I want to wear a muzzle or a hood with an attached collar, it still fits because the zipper ends below the neck. Around the collar there is a belt with a locking roller buckle and D-rings for the psychological effect of being locked inside the sleepsack. It is a purely psychological effect because once your arms are inside the arm pockets which I commissioned and the zippers are closed, any person with my rough body shape is not able to escape the sleepsack.

Detail of the Belt’s Roller Buckle

On each side of the sleepsack, there are 8 welded 7mm wire strength stainless steel D-rings riveted with leather flaps using six rivets. Through these thick bridle leather belts with double thorn roller buckles can be threaded to increase the bondage tightness or adjust the fit if you are slimmer than me. In addition to them, there are 8 smaller D-rings with “just” one rivets attached each side of the zipper. They are for threading rope through them for an ever tighter bondage and adding a different color to the all black sleepsack. On each shoulder and on the feet pocket there is another big D-ring. While they can be used to tied the sleepsack to the bed, I added them to be suspended inside the sleepsack either hanging on the shoulders or in a hammock like setup.

In order to unleash the true long-term potential of the sleepsack, I commissioned a cushion to put between the legs. This way there is not friction on the ankles and knees which would limit the time inside the sleepsack. The firmness of foam is soft enough to be comfortable jet firm enough to keep the joints from pressing against each other. The seam is one big piping so it is completely smooth.

Detail of the Padded Leg Devider

Another advantage of having your sleepsack made by a leather tailor is that each sleepsack is made to measure. He does not simply purchase a sleepsack body and adds straps and D-rings as the customers asks, but builds everything from scratch. Through this, he knows his product inside out and if necessary can do alterations. Last year, I worked out my thighs a bit too much and gained so much muscle mass that I could not close the zipper around the legs anymore. I just send it in and he added two pieces of leather just around my thighs so the sleepsack maintained his overall fit. While the sleepsack feels solid and is made for scenes and generations to come, if you are nitpicky, you will little aesthetic flaws like not all rivets being set in exactly the same way, some belt holes might be a bit off. After all, he is not Mr S who make dozens of sleepsacks every year, but these little points does not affect the functionality. I gladly oversee these little flaws for having a leather sleepsack which is exactly how I want it to be. Also, he has made several of them since he made mine so I guess he gathered some experience making them by now.

Detail of the D-rings around the Sleepsack

Naturally, all that leather and metal comes at a weight. In my case, almost 10kg. Even when packed tightly, it is almost a quarter cubic meter. I have taken this sleepsack to events in Berlin but it is not the most handy piece of bondage gear to travel with, especially when you do not travel by car.

As I written, this sleepsack was tailored to my demands and expectations. The original VW sleepsacks did not have D-rings on the sleesack but on the belts which were equipped with locking posts. So before ordering one, my recommendation is to try out some different sleepsacks (if possible) to figure out how your sleepsack needs to look like!

Playing with Leather Sleepsack

If you are a regular reader, you will most likely notice that a few weeks ago, I reviewed a rubber sleepsack. The big question is: Why another, way more expensive one?

Detail of the Tit Flaps

First, there is a fetish aspect. Some people like leather, other like rubber. I like both.

So the major point is that inside a leather sleepsack the feeling of bondage is more intense. While rubber will stretch, leather does not give in. You are confined to the shell of a thick, heavy leather cocoon. Leather is the most common material in bondage because it is strong. You can fight, you can struggle, you can stretch, you can grab and (try to) tear. The leather will not give in. This also impact the tightening process. With the rubber sleepsack I have to be careful when threading the rope through the D-rings and tightening it. On this one, I can tug and pull to really get it tight without having to worry to rip the rivet out of the material.

Detail of the Shoulder D-rings for Suspension Bondage

Because of these properties, the leather sleepsack is for heavier play or subs who like to struggle. With the D-rings around the sleepsack, it can easily be tied down so there is no wiggle room left for the sub. This comes in handy when inducing intense amounts of agony like through electro, CBT or milking. The tit flaps are large enough to expose the nipples to wax. And while wax does not destroy leather, it tarnishes the surface so some level of care is necessary.

For floaty bondage, it depends on your style. As soft as the leather is, it still maintains some level of stiffness. The thickness isolates the bottom from his surroundings. Because of that, the belts around the sleepsack are so wide that when tightening them the sub really feels the force and strength of the top. Add to that the weight of the leather and the feeling of being bound and helpless is more intense than in a rubber sleepsack.

Detail of the Arm Pockets

In a normal playroom setting leather also offers a bit more comfort than rubber. Since the leather is so thick it regulates the temperature quite well as long as the room temperature is at a normal level and the sleepsack does not lay in the open sun. Being a natural material, it also absorbs some level of sweat. This is also the downside of leather. Unlike rubber it is very difficult to clean – especially a large piece of gear as a sleepsack. So if the scene should be long-term, I recommend putting a diaper on the sub. Because leather is so comfortable and the sweating is not really noticed unlike in rubber, hydration and overheating can become a problem. So check in with the sub regularly and maybe open a little gap in the zipper to check his body.

Conclusion: Very well made leather sleepsack with loads of extras and a few beauty flaws.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Made to measure with extras tailored to the sub’s requirements Little imperfections in the manufacturing execution tarnish overall outstanding quality Lederbondage.com Around 1.500€ depending on the extras and shipping
Lavish amount of D-rings for intense
Ordering process more difficult and longer compared to off the rack sleepsack
bondage Suspension capability
Top notch leather and metal trim quality
Exceptional value for money

 

Rubber Bondage Sleepsack

The Torso of the Libidex Rubber Bondage Sleepsack

Vendor: Libidex

I do not review many rubber bondage items, mainly because I am maybe a bit too active sub to be contained by them and I am too lazy to clean them. But there are good reasons for some rubber bondage gear and I am more than happy to finally answer one of the most asked bondage gear question in this review.

Construction

Like the name of this toy already implies, it is tailored like a bodyfit sleepsack, a tight cocoon to envelop the body in latex. Unlike the sleepsacks made for camping this one only has a standing collar instead of an opening for the whole body. Also, the bottom has a shaped upward facing section for the feet. To get into the sleepsack, there are two zipper options: Either on top or on the bottom of the sleepsack, both running from the collar to the feet from. Mine has the top zipper for three reasons: First, from my experience with other sleepsacks, front access is way more important than rear access when it comes to sleepsacks. The idea of fucking a bottom inside a sleepsack (for which you would need rear access) is a hot idea, but this is quickly shattered by the reality of the bottom being an immobile “plank” and the zipper irritating the top’s dick. Second, lying on a zipper can be very uncomfortable, especially when the runners are poking you in the back. Finally, getting into a rear-zipper-sleepsack with arm pockets is a pain in the ass. The rear zipper comes with a cleaner look but in my opinion is not worth the disadvantages which comes with it. For a little surcharge you can get the opposite access zipper added to your sleepsack too.

As already implied, the Libidex Bondage Sleepsack is equipped with arm pockets which are really well designed. They open up deep enough inside the sleepsack to allow people with thick chest and shoulder muscles to comfortably get into and stay in them. Furthermore they are really deep so people with long arms do not have problems.

Detail of the Sleepsack’s Arm Pockets

The Bondage Sleepsack (like all Libidex sleepsacks) is made out of 0.8mm rubber. This thickness is a good compromise of sturdiness yet flexibility and stretchiness. The material stretches just enough for easy getting and staying in but still has enough compressing force for the compact, encapsulating rubber bondage feeling. The seams are glued really well and with enough of an overlap to take a bit of beating. In combination with the material thickness, this model can contain a somewhat active sub. But keep in mind that rubber is not nearly as strong as leather! When fettering a bratty sub or going for a painplay scene where the sub will work out the pain, I highly recommend either getting (rubber) belts or tie rope around the sleepsack.

To help keep these means in place, the sleepsack is equipped with welded D-rings with an inner width of 35. Along the side there are four D-ring paris: Above the elbow, over the wrists, above the knee and around the ankles. There is a pair on top of the shoulder, one pair on the collar and finally a single D-ring at the bottom of the feet. The D-rings are attached to the sleepsack using a 30mm wide strap of rubber which is reinforced with a 15mm wide strap of fabric striping. Through this striping there are two rivets on each side which are covered by rubber patches in the inside. This is not only good for potential allergy reasons but the sweat and other liquids accumulating inside the sleepsack would cause rust. As sturdy as the D-rings are attached to the sleepsack, as little I would recommend to use the D-rings for limiting a subs movement by tying the sleepsack down onto a bed frame for example. The chances of the rivets being ripped out of the rubber are too high. Better use the rope as an anchor point.

Detail of the Rivet Cover inside the Sleepsack

Finally, a word in the customization options for the sleepsack: You can choose from 43 colors and sizes ranging from XXS to 4XL free of charge with is the largest selection of colors and sizes I have come across yet. Furthermore there are three length options. I have gotten the tall for being around 1.88m tall and it fits me really well – as well as some of my guests which were as tall as 2.05m.

Playing with the Bondage Sleepsack

While this rubber sleepsack can be used to fetter a sub for pain play, the limitations above apply. When you have an active sub and are not a big fan of additionally wrapping rope, belts or chains around a sub, I recommend getting a leather sleepsack (or if you are a rubber fetishist, get both and layer up).

After having gotten that out of the way, let’s talk about the great sensual quality of a rubber sleepsack. Unlike leather, the rubber stretches and flows over the body like a second skin. This has made the rubber sleepsack the favorite piece of bondage for floaty bondage scenes with my subs. With 0.8mm the material is just thin enough to transmit the light touches of fingers traveling over the body. But the material also picks up movement from a strong massager, causing the latex cocoon to resonate around the application area for a unique feeling. Add to that the temperature conductivity of rubber and an ice cube of metal implement warmed in water can create become a tool on the brink between ecstasy and agony. Though NEVER pour wax over rubber or apply hot, sharp or spiky implements! It will damage the material. Since rubber is non-breathable and despite the good temperature conductivity contains warmth, temperature control and hydration (due to sweating) is a constant issue. Make sure that the room is well heated but not too warm, opening a window with a light breeze going over the bound boy can quickly make him become hypothermic. On the other end of the temperature scale, letting him lay in the sun will make him overheat. All these factors have to be taken into consideration when planning the scene because one inside the sleepsack, moving the bottom is difficult. And getting into a sweat-drenched cold rubber bag is a fetish some very much enjoy but not many.

Detail of the Rubber Stripes Holding the D-rings in Place

Rubber is also a good isolating material. I had great fun teasing a sub with a violet wand electrode running over his body, coming closer or moving away from his exposed genitals and alternating the wand’s intensity, so he never knew when the spark would jump over to his dick. When doing this kind of play, be careful with coming too close to the metal zipper which also conducts and can cause interesting effects…

Since the seams are glued really well, the rubber bondage sleespack is basically one big tub which of cause can be filled with liquids. This starts with dropping an ice cube or two against overheating, continues over the ability to relieve oneself during long-term bondage and ends in being the party urinal when the courtesy piss bottom cannot swallow quickly enough (or being the drain for him). While you can fit almost every smaller body type into even a larger and taller sleepsack, when playing with liquids the body fit should be roughly the one ordered. Otherwise the liquids will flow out of the neck opening.

Detail of the Feet Section of the Sleepsack

When talking about messy things, I have to talk about the biggest pain in the ass with rubber items:  Cleaning and maintenance. You can and have to clean the bondage sleepsack like every rubber item (as described in my Rubber 101). The weight and size makes handling the sleepsack a bit clumsy and due to the attached feet section, getting all liquids out before and after the wash is a bit difficult. Polishing the sleepsack takes a while just as applying talcum in the inside (never forget the arm pockets). And finally, the sleepsack should be stored hanging best to avoid creases. Despite all the hassle, I was surprised how often I use the rubber bondage sleepsack.

Conclusion: Extremely good value for money rubber sleepsack.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Good fit and arm pockets for tight bondage experience Only three runner on the zipper Libidex £299
Material thickness good compromise of bound feeling and sensual qualities Cleaning is a pain in the ass
Plenty of D-rings for additional fettering
Wide range of possible sizes

Leather Suspension Harness

The Blackjump Leather Suspension Harness

Vendor: Blackjump

Construction

Like with all heavy duty bondage items, the first look should always be on the material and manufacturing quality in order to see if the gear will actually detain a struggling sub. This is even more important with a suspension harness because an equipment failure will not only ruin a scene but can potentially cause injuries!

This Blackjump model is beyond any doubt. All straps are made out of sturdy, 2mm thick and 50mm wide belt leather (except the one across the chest which is 30mm wide). Points with crucial load bearing or extreme kinetic stress either feature double leather layers or four instead of just two rivets. Equally important is the protection of fragile and vulnerable body parts from the stiff leather belts digging in. For this thick and stiff foam under soft leather is used so even under a lot of pressure you do not feel the leather and metal below the padding. The hardware is also supreme: The D-rings are welded and made out of thick steel, the buckles are sturdy roller buckles.

Detail of the Double Lay Leather to extra-reinforce the Suspension D-ring

All these ingredients are mixed together into what appears fairly simple design which in the details shows a lot of thought. The torso part is basically two belts with holes on both ends, riveted to an X with one rivet on the back so the angle between the two belts can adjust easily depending on the sub’s body size. To protect collarbone and the shoulders, there are pads which can be attached to the belts with snaps. Though mine have been lost when I have bought this harness from a friend; I need to reorder them again. On the apex of both belts there is a D-ring from which this harness gets suspended. Just above the belt holes in front there is a horizontal strap riveted with a roller buckle to tighten the harness in front of the chest.

Using four buckles, these straps are connected to the piece de resistance of this suspension harness: The roughly bone-shaped, padded pelvic-protection. Since there are no muscles and rarely a thick layer of fat over the pelvis, this body area is very sensitive to abrasions. Because of this it has to be padded, either through a pad (like Mr S does) or through a padded belt (like Fetters does). Blackjump goes further. He extends the padding over the stomach region onto the lower rib cage to also protect this fragile body part. In order to maintain the flexibility and adjustability of the harness, the padding is not only ergonomically shaped, but middle part which goes over the stomach section is with 60mm only 40% as wide as the 140mm wide padding to the pelvis and rib cage. A little drawback of the heavy duty design is that the rivets which connect the belts with the padding are not covered by leather.

Detail of the Padding Protecting the Pelvis and Rib Cage

The four buckles on the upper end of the padding allow to adjust the harness the bottom’s body size. It is very adjustable; I suspended people from 1,69m to 2,05m and thin twinks to heavier bears with no problem. From my experience with leather as a material and without any guarantee I would say the breaking load of this harness is somewhere between 150kg and 180kg. Below the buckles of the back there is also a D-ring riveted. To my knowledge it is the only fetish suspension who has these D-rings but they are very important when the sub is not flying high (see below). On the bottom there is a belt attached which go around the thigh. To also protect this delicate body area (see below), there a 100mm wide and 350mm long padded “sleigh” running on the strap so regardless of the length adjustment is always cover the back part of the thigh.

At least when my friend bought the harness some 10 years ago, it came with a sturdy suspension bar. On both ends quick links are welded onto the bar, the actually suspension is attached to a triangle ring welded onto the middle. From the quick links 350mm of 6mm wire gauge chain are suspended. The actually harness is suspended using pear clips which the avid reader knows I am not a big fan off. Though since they are never actually opened the sharpness does not really play a role. And at least the ones I have a certified for 230 daN. So I can hardly imagine a strong, heavy muscle bear exceeding the dynamic breaking load of 469kg + safety margin…

Detail of the Back Buckle with D-ring

Playing with the Suspension Harness

For me suspension bondage, especially in a harness and using rope, is the ultimate form of mindfuck bondage: You are free to move around yet unable to escape. To achieve this level of mindfuck, the sub needs to be suspended so high that his toes can’t touch the ground and his hands can’t touch anything. If you do not have a gymnasium for a playroom, this can be difficult. The extreme situation is my playroom where some subs have to crouch to get into the harness with the suspension bar above them. To still get the sub helpless, put ankle restraints on him and connect them to the D-rings on the back. Depending on the degree of helplessness, fetter the hands using suspension restraints to the suspension bar or to the D-ring to which the thigh belt is connected. In the latter position for added stress, upper arm restraints can be connected to the back D-rings. However, I would not recommend to subject to sub to too much pain in this situation because due to the limited upper arm movement  he can quickly pull something.

The design of the straps and belts allow for maximum accessibility for sensation play over TT and CBT to spanking and even flogging. Particularly fun are e-stim scenes with movement triggered units like the Electrastim Flick Duo or Axis. Once the sub starts to work the pain out, self-sustaining system of constant movement is set in motion which keeps the stimulation coming and coming.

Detail of the Suspension Bar and Chains

The feeling of flying can also heighten the sensations of more traditional play like getting fucked or fisted. The free movement of the harness creates a way stronger swinging action than a sling does. While a suspension harness seems like a natural match for a milking machine, I made not the best experience with my Venus 2000. The body’s natural reaction to an intense sensation is flinching, pulling the penis out of the receiver. Just suspending the receiver from the chest strap also proved to instable. I have seen people converting cock sheaths into attachment points for the receiver so this might work.

Detail of the Thigh Padding

As hot and fun suspension bondage is, it is also one of the most dangerous forms of bondage due to the risk of suspension trauma. In short suspension bondage is the blood gathering in the legs when being suspended for an extended period of time which will cause a circulatory collapse. Symptoms are sweating, breathlessness, dizziness, feeling sick, dropping blood pressure or numbness. If any of these symptoms occur, get the sub out of the harness but NEVER LAY HIM DOWN! During suspension trauma the heart tries to pump the blood up with ever increasing force. Laying him down would cause the blood to shoot into the torso and brain, basically killing him! This is called rescue death. To prevent this, for the first 20 to 30 minutes, keep the torso in an upright position. A suspension trauma is not a “miner circulation crash” but a serious medical emergency and requires professional help! Drugs which increase blood pressure and/ or open up the blood vessels like poppers can increase the likelihood of suspension trauma. While the thick padding on critical areas makes the appearing of a suspension trauma unlikely, a suspended sub (like all bound subs) should never be left alone and a suspension scene should never go over extended periods of time. Furthermore it is important to talk with the sub about the potential symptoms before a scene so he can draw the top’s attention to problems early enough and does not dismiss them out of mislead will to be obedient.

Speaking of safely suspending someone: If you want to really lift the sub after fettering him in the harness, I highly recommend getting a professional winch for liability reasons. Considering dynamic loads, you should get one with over 1,000kg carrying load!

Conclusion: Bes fetish suspension harness I have come across yet.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Great craftsmanship out of high quality materials Takes forever to break in Blackjump Ca. 250€
Thick and ample padding for comfortable and safe scenes over extended periods of time
D-rings in all relevant places
Comes with suspension hardware

 

Fetish Pads

The Fetish Pad in the Natural Habitit: Protecting Delicate Hardwood Floor during Messy Play

Vendor: The Kinksters

Construction

These pads are a kinky version of the medical products used for people with incontinence or to cover the changing tables of babies. The bottom is made out of water-proof foil and covered by a gauze-like material which covers – in this case two layers of – absorbing cellulose. The Fetish Pads also follows this product category’s standard sizing. The entire pad measures 59x86cm of which the absorbing padding measures 53.5×75.5cm. They are sold in cases of 15.

What distinguishes this product from the medical ones is the one hand color: The medical ones come in blue and green, sometimes even in white. But the Fetish Pad is made in the kink scene’s favorite color black. Because the gauze is only semiopaque, the absorbing surface has a cloudy charcoal color.

Left: Bottom’s Water-proof Foil
Right: Absorbing Padding

Playing with the Fetish Pads

There are countless forms of play in which the Fetish Pads can be used. The most obvious are piss play, either the “traditional” one or pup play in terms of house training. To create a larger area for piss or gunge play I recommend to overlap several pads and tape the gaps from both sides. They are also useful for fisting. Place them under the bottom’s directly ass or the sling to absorb lube or piss after bladder stimulation. I usually travel with pads when playing in hotels because unlike a play sheet they do not take away much space and I can simply throw away after the scene. For this purpose, the Fetish Pads are clearly superior to their medical counter parts which are usually stiffer. The Fetish Pads are soft and easily curve around the body so there are no gaps where liquids could escape. Furthermore the pads can take quite a bit of beating without tearing so the liquids are even well contained when an active bottom is placed on them.

Detail of the Interior of the Absoring Padding

But what disappointed me a bit was their absorption capacity. To test the pads, I evenly poured a liter of water over them. While the cellulose quickly absorbed the water where it hit, the pad struggled to absorb the full amount of liquid. A liter might sound excessive but keep in mind that is poured it evenly over the entire absorbing surface, something which is far from a real-life situation. So for example during fisting if a bottom getting fisted pisses himself or lots of lube flows out of his ass, the area of the liquid hitting the pad will be very small. Since a person lying on them creates a depression, the unabsorbed liquid will linger there, making it uncomfortable over time. So for heavy fetish play, I would have liked there to be four or even six cellulose layers for more capacity.

And finally, there is the price: At £1.73 per pad, they are rather pricy for a “use and throw away without worrying too much”-item. So in the end it all comes down to how important the color coordination with the gear and the playroom is for a kinkster in need of absorbing pads.

Conclusion: Styling yet expensive absorbing pads with limited capacity
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Stylish Design Limited absorption power The Kinksters £25.99
Sturdy build Expensive

Adjustable Rim Chair

The Meo Adjustable Rim Chair

Vendor: Mr S (US) or Regulation (EU)

Construction

The basic structure of this rim seat is a horse shoe shaped hot zinc dipped steel tube with 38mm diameter.  On both sides about 100mm behind the opening 175mm long handles with 32mm diameter are welded which are covered with a vinyl cover for better grip. Behind each grip a tube facing outward is welded. On its end there is a spring pushbutton. Using this button the legs which are put onto this tube can be adjusted to three heights: 410mm (550mm clearance between the legs), 380mm and 515mm clearance and 350mm with 495mm clearance. When you push the legs up all the way the height is 330mm with 460mm clearance. But since the spring pushbuttons are not holding the legs they can move. The legs are T-shaped and the ends are covered in conic shaped rubber covers which create a secure stand and keep the legs from scratching the floor.

Detail of the Spring Pushbuttoms for the Heights Adjustment

For a comfortable seat for even extended periods of time a black horse shoe shaped toilet seat with a 10cm opening is mounted onto the ring. The seat can be tipped up.

When the legs are taken off, the rim chair becomes very compact for easy storage and for travelling.

Playing with the Rim Chair

First things first: Is this a good rim chair? Yes, it is. It has a sturdy and ergonomic build so the tops sits securely and comfortable. The grips make it easy to sit down and get up. The three height settings and clearance between the legs allow even for a slim bondage board to be put between them. All pieces are easy to clean so even when the play gets nasty the rim seat shines again quickly.

Detail of the Vinyl Covered Grip

When used alone the comfortable position and ass accessibility makes this rim chair ideal furniture for anal self play. The sphincter is relaxed even when reaching down to stuff the butt so putting toys up the ass is more easily and pleasurable. Beyond that this rim seat even has a practical use: When setup in a shower or bath tub a bottom can sit down on it for a comfortable cleaning up. Through the comfortable sitting position the colon relaxes and cleaning out is more easily. There is a chance of water entering the legs through the height adjustment holes. So after cleaning out the legs should be taken off and emptied.

The rim chair even works as a compact and basic piece of bondage furniture. Wrist and ankle restraints can be attached to the legs. The most effective bondage layout is fettering the thighs to the grips using Velcro restraints. This leaves the legs spread apart so the balls and dick can be played with, ideal for CBT, especially ball busting and kicking.

Conclusion:  Comfortable and versatile rim chair
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Sturdy build and comfortable to sit on Mr S $179.95

 

Regulation Rim Chair £199
Works well for BDSM and self-play Carrying Bag £29.99
Easy to clean

Blackjump Padded Sling Stir-Ups

Blackjump Padded Sling Stir-Ups

Vendor: Blackjump

Construction

These sling stir-ups are made out of three 20cm long and 6cm wide bridle leather belts are perpendicularly attached to an O-ring using sturdy rivets. The lower and the middle straps feature thick and not too soft padding under soft nappa leather; the un-padded top one features a welded D-ring.

Detail of the Padding, Riveting and the Welded O-ring

Playing with the Padded Sling Stir-Ups

This sling accessory is made for power bottoms who do not want to lay down in the sling but actively work with the top during anal play. The padded perpendicular strap keeps the foot from slipping out of the stir-up when the bottom stems into them. By lifting his ass up and having the support he can push is ass towards whatever is in front of his ass allowing to increase the speed or the depths of the pounding. Once the sub stems into stir-ups the not uncomfortable stiffness of the straps form around the foot, giving it great support for really active engagement. Yet due to the comfortable padding they are great for extended scenes with bare feet.

The support through the tightness comes with a price. Since the leather doesn’t really get broken in they are a bit hard to get the feet into them on your own. Also they are rather confined. Not too bulky sneakers up to size EU47/UK12/US13 are no problem but most kinds of boots are simply too bulky to fit in.

Conclusion: Unique stir-up design for the active power bottom.  
Pro Cons Where to get Price  
Allows for active participation during anal play in the sling Too tight for boots Blackjump 69€
Difficult to get in and out without help
Made for heavy duty play
High quality leather

Serious Toys Rubber Sling

Vendor: Demask Dortmund

The Serious Toys Rubber Sling

Rubber is one of the major fetishes in the kink community. As hot as the material is for fetish wear and gear it has some major drawbacks when it comes to manufacture toys out of it: It is hard to cut into shape making the manufacturing process complicated and thus expensive, compared to leather is cannot withstand much force, it dissolves after contact with oils and it needs to be maintained with silicone oil. So when it comes to toys for hard play I stick to leather.

Detail of the Stainless Steel Fittings

I know that there are some rubber slings out there but none of the addressed all the potential issues I mentioned above – unlike the Serious Toys Rubber Sling I have bought. To be honest I was skeptical when considering the purchase because the sling is more expensive than most leather slings and after all being made out of rubber I feared I would at least have to deal with some of the drawbacks. But since the guy who designed this sling did an awesome job designing my bed with added bondage functionality I gave it a try.

The Serious Toys Rubber Sling with Holes Cut into it

The sling is a five point design so there is space to rest your head when lying in the sling. It comes in two sizes: Standard which measures 122cm by 75cm or XL which measures 122cm by 95cm. They have also made a model with holes cut into the sling which is great for piss-heavy scenes. The sling is made out of three 2mm thick industrial rubber layers which are reinforced with Kevlar. Instead of using D-rings housed in riveted rubber loops for suspend the sling from stainless steel fittings are used. They are screwed to a counter plate with four screws. This design prevents shearing which is necessary. While most leather slings resp. their fittings give in around half a ton of static load at best an entire Smart car has been suspended from this sling. So even when you really plowing a heavier bottom in this sling, it can withstand the high dynamic load. However, there is a major drawback of using rubber as a sling material: It has a rather low thermal conductivity so even in a well heated room the sling will be rather cold when lying down.

Despite the material being hard to work with the manufacturing quality is perfect. Computer controlled water saws are used to cut the rubber so the shape is even. Unlike most other common rubber play items the edges of the sling have been deburred so there are no hard edges which could potentially damage rubber gear or abrase the skin.

Detail of the Three Kevlar reinforced Layers of Industrial Rubber

The Sling Suspension Solution in my Playroom

One of the main advantages of rubber is that it is unaffected by most things. Commonly in play involved substances like piss, poppers or silicone lube can tarnish a leather sling while the rubber maintains its mat shine. Being made out of chlorinated industrial rubber you can even use oil-based lubes like Crisco in this sling without damaging it. This in combination with the fact that it is easy to clean makes this sling the ideal choice for group scenes where you can simply spray the sling with a sanitizer and whip it off or raunchier play. Being made out of industrial rubber the Serious Toys Rubber Sling doesn’t even need maintenance like applying silicone oil.

For suspending the sling for the ceiling they recommend a rectangle of 1.5m by 2.2m for the standard size sling and 2m by 2.2m for the XL version. However are you can see from the pictures taken in my playroom if you can live with some small niggles and are creative you can even put it up in room with a challenging layout. Last spring they also introduced stir-ups made out of the same rubber and with the same stainless steel fittings for 99€ a pair. They are larger and wider than all other stir-ups I have seen so far. So if you like to wear big waders or MX boots while getting played with in the sling these might be the stir-ups to go to.

Conclusion: The only high quality, heavy duty and easy to clean and maintain RUBBER sling I know.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Made for heavy duty play Rather cold when lying down Demask Dortmund Standard: 379€

XL: 459€

Can with stand almost everything you expose it to
Made out of rubber
Easy to clean

Sheets of San Francisco

Vendor: Sheets of San Francisco

Detail of the Fitted Corner

Detail of the Fitted Corner

Most people don’t have a playroom. So creating an environment where you can live out your kinks inside a vanilla house can be a challenge. Especially when it comes to messier kinks where large quantities of lube or piss finding creating good and comfortable area to play while being sure you don’t ruin the furniture can be a challenge. Living in a dorm I can very much relate to these problems especially when it comes to fisting. Play sheets were not really a solution for me because when playing hard they shift and cleaning and drying them was always a challenge. So I was very happy when Sheets of San Francisco send me a set of their fitted play sheets to give them a real life test.

The sheets are made out of polyurethane which is woven 2-ply. This leads to a dense and sturdy surface with a characteristic stripe pattern. The feel of the material is best described as high quality cotton sheets meeting chlorinated rubber. Unlike rubber they don’t have a high heat transfer coefficient so you can actually snuggle and roll around in them without having to face a cold surface once you shift a bit.

What in my opinion are more important than the feel are the material properties: The sheets are absolute waterproof. It doesn’t matter if it is lube, piss, sweat or other liquids, the will stay on top of the sheet and won’t sink in. You can find these properties on other play sheet material like vinyl or rubber but further more Sheets of San Francisco also does not take up smells easily and does not tear easily when being exposed to a little (!!!) pressure of sharp objects. The material is also surprisingly resistant to the heat of dripping wax. After a wax play scene you can simply peel off the wax.

Water on a Mattress Cover from Sheets of San Francisco

Water on a Mattress Cover from Sheets of San Francisco

What really sets Sheets of San Francisco apart from other play sheets are that they are fitted. This means they come with pockets you wrap around the mattress. So even when playing hard and heavily the sheet stays in place when the size roughly fits the mattress. All sheets are designed for a standard mattress height (around 20cm) and come in a lot of standard US, UK and EU sizes. The material stretches a bit and also the pockets are large enough to hold onto even a bit smaller beds. If your bed or padded play area does not fit any standard sizes there is always the option of getting a custom fit for a £30 premium. And with prices between £36 for a pillow case over £129 to £139 for a fitted sheet up to £199 for a duvet cover they are not really that much more expensive than other, not fitted play sheets.

The Sheets of San Francisco line also features pillow cases (I stuffed mine with hard pillows to lift and support the ass when lying on the back during a fisting scene) and a duvet cover. A friend of mine who is an ABDL bought the entire set to sleep comfortable yet without fear of soiling his mattress or duvet if his diaper should start leaking. Finally there is also a throw sheet to cover “complex” objects like sofas or to put under your sling.

Sheets of San Francisco withstanding Mild Pressure of Sharp Objects

Sheets of San Francisco withstanding Mild Pressure of Sharp Objects

Cleaning the sheets is very easy: Simply throw them in the washing machine on 40°C and don’t spin-dry them too much. Since the material is hydrophobic it will dry quickly. A downside of the waterproof material is that sometimes water gets trapped in the “pockets” of the fitting. So be a bit careful when you take it out of the machine. If you played with a lot of JLube, I recommend putting a spoon of salt into the machine. Also, powder detergent sometimes leaves residues. For me dish soap worked the best but since it foams more than detergent I recommend not using more than a spoon again. If you are living in a dorm and washing machines or space for letting the sheet dry is an issue, wipe up the lube or whatever is on the sheet using paper towels, mix a solution out of salt and dish soap, spray it on the stains, wipe the liquid up again with paper towels and let it dry on the bed. It usually takes less than half an hour and you can store away the clean and dry sheet.

I was actually so happy with the mattress and pillow cover that I might extend my set with a duvet cover or two and also buy a loose sheet for my soon to put up sling or wax play.

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