Bastinado Special Restraints

Bastinado Special Restraints

Vendor: McHurt

Construction

The Bastinado Special Restraints are two ankle cuffs connected in the middle by sturdy stitching. Due to using stitching instead of a rivet they cannot twist. The leather of the cuff is not padded and 50mm wide. The cuffs feature an incredible ankle size range between 16cm and 28cm circumference. So they fit equally on petit ladies and big bulls. For easy handling the cuffs are closed using a roller buckle which is covered by a leather tongue so the metal does not press into the skin. Between the cuffs a 25mm wide and 26cm long belt is securely sown.

The toy comes with another connected cuff with 20mm wide leather straps closed by roller buckles. This small restraint is made for fettering the big toes together. Again, at a circumference range between 5cm and 11cm it should fit most feet. Unlike its big brother there is no belt between the cuffs.

Comparison of the Edge Finish of the Two Parts

McHurt is famous for basic yet heavy duty BDSM toys. They source their toys in Europe so no problem with Chrome-6 leather like from cheap Asian mass manufacturer or sloppy stitching. But the leather is initially stiffer than I would expect it to be and the inside of the ankle cuffs is lined with sued which edges have not been finished. That McHurt’s supplier is capable of a higher level of refinement is shown on the toe cuff which has perfectly finished edges – except for the leather tongue which underlines the buckles. All things consider at 49.80€ you get great value for your money! But just don’t expect the level of refinement you get at Mr S or Regulation/ Fetters.

Detail of the Roller Buckle

Playing with the Bastinado Special Restraints

Hitting the soles of the feet has many names: Bastinado, falaka, dǎ jiǎoxīn or foot whipping. It has an equally long tradition in Arabian, Asian and Western punishment culture. However, if you are not good with ropes, it is hard secure the feet in a way that they don’t flinch so you can deliver the blows precisely. As their name indicates, the Bastinado Special Restraints were designed just for that.

The Sued on the Inside of the Ankle Cuffs

The big cuffs are for tying the feet of the bottom together. The wide leather is perfect for distributing the strong force legs can exert evenly on the ankle so they are comfortable yet secure. Since the restraint has not padding or body but the belt is the restraint, there is little wiggle room. So with the feet tied next to each other, the soles form an even and parallel impact surface. This is basis for controlled and evenly hit impact play. But beyond this job well done, it gets a bit difficult.

The lacking level of refinement sadly also shows how cutting corners impairs the functionality of this toy. The strap between the cuffs is supposed for tying the ankle cuffs to a bar some (!) beds have as a design feature at the foot end. Most of these bars are purely ornamental so not really made for detaining struggling feet. But even if I ignore the scarcity of this design element and its common fragility – even though it is necessary for these cuffs to properly work! – the belt position doesn’t make sense! You have to twist it 90° in order tie it to a bar running perpendicularly to the cuffs. Of course, attaching it between the cuffs is cheap and still it somehow does the trick, but it is another example of lacking refinement and cutting corners due to cost.

The Inside of the Toe Cuffs

There is a similar issue on the toe cuffs. They keep the toes securely together to form an even impact area. But the bottom can still move his feet backwards and forwards. A small D-ring for attaching a tension strap to keep them from wiggling would have been great!

Do these issues make the Bastinado Special Restraints a bad toy? No! As already written, they are great value for money. You just need to invest a little bit of thinking and effort to work out the kinks.

  1. If you don’t have a bar to attach the restraints to, run tension straps though the roller buckles and laterally fetter the cuffs to the bed frame. Don’t use the rectangular gates as attachment points! They are not welded and will bend open (replacing them with welded D-rings [or welded gates like on the Rubstraints] would be the best solution tbh).
  2. You can use a big shackle as an improvised attachment point. If the thick metal wire is a bit uncomfortable for the bottom, a narrow and soft tape sling tied in a bowline also does the trick. I have tried carabineers but they tend to turn and slip, making it more uncomfortable.

An Improvised Attachment Point for the Toe Cuffs

I cannot review this toy without talking about impact play on the feet itself. Like the hand, the foot has many delicate bones which easily shatter. There is fat tissue and almost no thick muscle tissue to dampen the kinetic energy of the impact blow. So don’t let yourself be fooled by movies where people use thick bamboo canes to punish a guy! Instead use riding crops, thin canes with medium blow intensity, floggers of strap out of not too stiff leather or padded paddles. You can also flick wooden, delrin or aluminum blades but no full blows. The danger of inflicting permanent damage is too high.

Of course, with the feet kept in place, they are in a perfect spot for having wax poured on them. Or playing with a Wartenberg wheel. Or prick soles on combination with a rolling pin. Or e-stim. There are many safe options out there to torment the soles. Just don’t be over enthusiastic when it comes to actual bastinado 😉

Conclusion: Innovative special purpose restraint with practical shortcoming.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Unique design Attachment solution of the ankle cuffs is only hypothetical McHurt 49.80€
Can be used on wide range of body types
Good value for money Toe restraints have not attachment point
No d-rings
Unsophisticated manufacturing

Superior Latex Restraints (& Harnesses)

The VAST Superior Latex Bondage Gear

Vendor: VAST

Construction

These restraints are standard cuff-style restraints. The body is 69mm wide and slightly convex. The wrist restraint body it is 220mm long, the ankle one is 320mm. Onto the body a 40mm wide belt is attached using four pairs of rivets. When the restraints are lying down, the belt bends slightly upwards. This is the “extra length” needed to comfortably wrap the restraints around the sub’s body. Between two rivet pairs a D-ring is housed. On the left side the belt ends in a roller buckle, on the other side it tapers for easy threading.

There are seven holes with 10mm spacing between the centers. The material and bonding is so strong and perfect, these restraints do not need the belt hole reinforcement rivets common on other pieces of rubber restraints (which are a pain in the ass when bending or falling out). The first hole is 75mm away from the belt tip. Due to this even in the largest setting, the belt tip goes fully through the belt loop.

For extra security you can order the restraints with a locking pin for an additional 20€. These restraints come with a two locks which look nice but can be picked with a paperclip. As always I recommend investing keyed alike, non-bras (!) locks like from ABUS or Master for your play.

The Wrist and Ankle Restraints with the Anatomically Curvature

As the name of the toy already indicates, it is made out of latex. Unlike other rubber restraints which rely on thick and stiff industrial rubber, VAST’s Superior Latex is made out of two layers of 0.8mm thick soft and smooth garment latex glued on top of a strap of aramid. So the material combines the softness of thin latex usually used to make fetish wear with the high strength of aramid. Being made out of standard 4D latex the restraints smell SO good and delicious like rubber gear shoud!

All trim like rivets, buckles, D-rings or the locking pin are made out of stainless steel. This is important because stainless steel is the only metal (well, except platinum, gold or aluminum…) which does not chemically react with rubber. This reaction, commonly called “latex cancers” makes the material soft and gooey and ultimately over time will make the material tear. Because all trim is made out of stainless steel, the restraints will withstand heavy use for many years. Stainless steel is also important because due to the design, the rivets touch the skin. Other materials could cause allergies but with stainless steel you are 99.9% safe.

Detail of the Logo and Stitching Laser Engraving

The restraints can be ordered in a wide range of different designs. The most simple is of course a single color followed by different colors on the outside and the inside or a different colored strap. There are two strip options: Either a thick stripe in the middle, slightly bigger than the belt holes or the thin stripe running 10mm inside around the belt (the option I chose for my restraints). Colorwise you can choose from the 4D Rubber range of 80 different shades to match your other gear or show your fetish by choosing a hanky color. Of course, they don’t have all colors in stock but can order them.

A nice design touch is a laser-engraved band of small lines which runs around every pieces of rubber, even the belt loop. This creates the look of stitching. Despite not adding anything functional to the restrains, it is a great design feature that adds to the overall high quality look and appeal of the restraints. Since they do the laser-engraving themselves you can customize the gear with your own tests, logos, etc..

These many customizing options mean of course that there is little to no stock. When friends ordered their harnesses and restraints it took about two weeks for their set to me made. So like with all (custom) rubber gear, plan a little bit ahead when you want it for a specific event like Folsom for example. If you want a combination or customization that’s not on your website, send them an e-mail.

Detail of the D-ring

Playing with the Superior Latex Restraints

Being standard cuff-style restraints, they are a good basis for almost every non-rope bondage layout. They are easy to handle and fetter the sub securely. You can really tell that they have been designed by perverts for perverts. With two D-rings you can easily brace the restraints in an elaborate rope or tension strap layout. The slightly convex design of the restraint body hugs the joint anatomically correct. The tapered tip of the belt makes threading it through the roller buckle and the belt loop quick and easy.

So far, they behave like every other leather and rubber restraint I have reviewed on this website. But due to being made out of soft latex they are the most flexible and tightest closable restraints in my collection. Since two layers of 0.8mm thick latex are glued together they have just the right level of stiffness to not flap or wobble around. The edges are not deburred but straight cut. Unlike with thick industrial rubber this is not a problem. None of my testees and friends who have been using Superior Latex gear for quite some time now encountered chafing on the skin or scratches on rubber gear from these restraints. Even when the sub is struggling hard, the restraints are detaining him without digging into the flesh. All things considered, they are comfortable and secure over extended periods of time.

The Tapered Tip of the Belt Threaded through The Belt Loop

Speaking of struggling hard, the restraints can take a beating. I have fettered subs who are notorious for trashing bondage gear in them and they still look like new. To really test them, I attached my suspension harness to them and put a sub in it. Another top friend incorporated them into a suspension bondage layout.  These are borderline cases and you should at least try the latter two not at home if you are not very versed in suspension bondage. But these little experiments show how strong these restraints really are.

The friends who have ordered these restraints all bought the locking versions. Once locked around the wrist and ankles of a full rubber gimp, he cannot take his gear off anymore and is encapsulated in his rubber prison. While this of course can also be done with locking leather restraints, being made out of shiny latex they do not obstruct the sleek, polished look of a rubber gimp but blend into it. When I got mine, the locking option was not available yet so my restraints are not lockable (early adopter problem). But since the premium is so little, I would always recommend getting to lockable version!

The Roller Buckle

Being made out of latex, this bondage gear requires the same care as every piece of rubber gear. Rubber is easily damaged by oils like in perfume and fat. So do not expose this gear to Crisco for example. Since human skin has a slight layer of oils and fat, you need to wash the restraints after putting them on bare skin (that being said, full rubber gimps with gloves do not have to do this ;)). I recommend special rubber detergent like VAST’s Wonder Wash for this but you can also use dish soap as long as it is not moisturizing or scented! Afterwards let it dry to avoid mold and treat it with silicone oil to care for the material and make it shiny. The gear should be stored in a dark, not too hot place.

Currently, these restraints are only available for neck, wrists and ankles. Hopefully in the (near) future the product range will be extended at least to biceps and thigh restraints (and maybe a fashionable thin biceps strap with small effect D-rings because even the smoothest of upper arm restraints is constraining when punch fisting someone…).

The Bulldog Harness on me

Superior Latex Harnesses

There is however a product category which borders restraints: Harnesses. If you have been following this website for some time, you know that I do not recommend fetish gear/ wear because which cut & fit turns somebody on is highly individual. However, I am going to make an exception here. Especially since a harness is only half fetish fashion accessory, half handle a top can grab to pull a sub towards him or hold onto while railing a bottom HARD.

For years I have been looking for a rubber bulldog harness. Since latex and rubber are fragile materials, none of the options available spoke to me. But I also do not like to mix leather and rubber, so wearing one of my leather ones wasn’t an option. Luckily VAST also makes three different harness designs in their Superior rubber: A classic bulldog (my favorite), a pet walking harness with a BIG d-ring for attaching a leash on the back and finally a Y-harness, perfect for attaching pieces of the Breather system to it or with a bit of rope (or tensions straps) to tie a torso down.

As I have written, style and fit preferences are highly individual. But if you are in the market for a heavy duty, intense play withstanding rubber harness, give them a try (on)!

Personally, I was surprised how well both bulldog and Y-harness looked on my body. When I have bought my first leather harness, I tried eight different ones before finding one that looked good on me…

Conclusion: Strongest, most flexible and customizable rubber bondage gear on the market.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Extremely strong yet comfortable to wear Limited range of restraints (for the moment) Wrist Restraints Starting at 119€
Ankle Restraints Starting at 124€
2 D-rings Collar Starting at 89€
High level of customizability Bulldog Harness Starting at 199€
Sleek design Y-Harness Starting at 199€
Pet Walking Harness Starting at 269€

Cross Body Bondage Harness

The Mr S Cross Body Bondage Harness

Vendor: Mr S Leather

This piece of gear is (probably) the final evolution of Mr S’ journey to see how much they can take away from a straight jacket and still acchieve stron fettering: They started out with a tradition straightjacket than came the Vector Bondage Sleeves and now we have ended with the Cross Body Bondage Harness. Let’s see if it performs as exceptional well as it’s bigger, bulkier brothers.

Construction

The core of this restraint are two welded, stainless steel o-rings connected by a short, sturdy strap of welded bridle leather. Onto each or-ring a 25mm wide and 60cm long bridle leather belt is riveted. They are closed using a roller buckle and the holes are punched from the tip down 37cm with 25mm spacing.

There is another 35cm long strap connected to each o-ring. Onto it a bondage mitt made out of soft yet thick, unlined garment leather is rivets. The mitts are large enough even for large paws. Subs up to glove size 13 have worn these comfortable in my playroom. The mitts are closed with yet another leather belt with a roller buckle and a locking pin. Sadly it does not come with locks. You need a standard 3mm wire strength lock this toy. A the plus side, it does not only house one but two d-rings.

The leather is the same as on all of the other Mr S bondage gear I have: Thick garment leather for the bodies and latigo leather for the straps. While the garment leather is the same as on every other toy that I own, the latigo was surprisingly stiff. Compared to other brands it is still quite soft and the edges are not firm or let alone sharp. But the straps are not as soft out of the box as on other toys from Mr S. Two things to consider: First, leather is a natural material and maybe the one strap my toy was made out of was stiffer. So there is a good chance a different toy will feel different.  Second, this did not mean that my toy was not usable right away. The straps were still softer and more flexible than from many other, high quality leather manufacturer. They just took longer to break in. If you have this toy, please let me know how your straps were out of the box.

The Mitt Part of the Cross Body Bondage Harness

Playing with the Cross Body Bondage Harness

First, let’s see how you can put these restraints on because this greatly influences the experience a lot.

As the name indicates, this is a body restraint: You place the o-ring connecting strap between the shoulder blades and put the mitts left and right of the neck to the front. First, put the left hand into the right mitt and the right hand into the left mitt. Leaving it just this way is the most comfortable way. To limit the movement more threat the belt through the corresponding D-ring on the mitt to tighten. For extra less leeway, thread the belt through both d-rings. For extra, straitjacket-like tightness, include the biceps in the fettering layout.

Especially in the latter setup, the bottom cannot move much. But if you want it tighter (and have additional straps like from other Mr S straitjackets), you can connect both mitts using a belt.  A borderline case for really thin and flexible bottoms is switching the restraint around and crossing the arms behind the back. Except for the most yoga affine twinks this is stress bondage. So do it carefully and ask the sub about his circulation in arms and hands on a regular basis!

The Roller Buckle and Locking Pin

When I first got these restraints, I was a bit skeptical: Do I need yet another body restraint from Mr S? The Vector Bondage Sleeves are perfect for me! They provide the same level of fettering as a straight jacket yet leave most of the body accessible for play. Ok, for travel they are still a bit bulky and the price is steep (yet well worth the money for me!). But what other experience would the Cross Body Bondage Harness offer?

Despite the small footprint they have one offer one of the best feats of straitjackets: The high adjustability of the intensity and feeling. The arms hanging down in front of the body is surprisingly comfortable. Crossing the arms is also a quite natural position and despite the mitts cuffs not being padded, the wrists don’t get tired hanging down. So like a straitjacket, the basic position is comfortable and can be maintained for extended periods of time. But you can easily make the bondage more intense and uncomfortably – just on a straitjacket. Unlike the straitjackets, the Cross Body Bondage Harness is a bit of a one trick pony since the basic position is only the same. But if this position works for you and your sub, this harness is great!

One of the O-Ring with the Three Belts Rivited onto it

This is especially true if you are big gear heads! Even more than with the Vector Straitjacket Sleeves, the Cross Body Bondage Harness covers less of the gear and thus doesn’t add heat – especially useful at events like Pride or Folsom. It also lets you display more of your gear while rendering the sub helpless. A demographic which preferred these restraints over straitjacket (sleeves) were bikers because apparently the arms hanging in a cross before the body is more comfortable in that gear.

Unlike most common straitjackets, these restraints are lockable. The locks are “only” on the mitts. But once the arms are crossed and the mitts are locked, you cannot get them off the subs. So like with every piece of lockable bondage gear, there “click” of the closing lock is a big mindfuck for many subs and hugh turn-on.

Speaking of gear head a common reader question regarding the Cross Body Bondage Harness was how it works with other pieces of bondage gear, especially collars and head gear.  The straps leading to the mitts run far enough left and right of the head and neck not interfere even with bulkier collars like a posture collar or gas masks and (motorcycle) helmets. It also allows good access to the neck to grab and drag the bottom.

The Two D-Rings per Mitt

Regardless if your sub is I heavy gear or you are like me and prefer your sub naked, this piece of bondage gear is good for leaving the lower torso exposed. The sub can easily and comfortably be bent over for getting fucked or spread his legs for getting his balls busted (or have his junk subjected to other forms of CBT). Due to the position of the mitts, the nipples are not really accessible well. The movement of the arms are not restricted enough to keep him from protecting them. A nimble subs can even push nipple clamps off though that process is going to be painful.

Since each mitt features two d-rings, the Cross Body Bondage Harness is somewhat good for tying someone down. With a bit of rope you can more or less effectively tie the upper torso to the bed. But that is not really what this toy is for. However the d-rings are enough and placed well enough to tie your boy to a post or bondage frame in a bar or bound him together with another sub.

Conclusion: The smallest footprint toy possible to get almost straitjacket light fettering.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Strong degree of bondage on small footprint Only one bondage position

Doesn’t come with locks

Mr S Leather $189.95
Lockable
Two d-rings per mitt

 

Classic Restraints

The Cuffed Classic Restraints

Quick note: ToyTorture.com is still on hiatus until after Ascension. But I have been getting so many questions about the Cuffed Classis Restraints that I decided to take a break from the break and write this review today.

Vendor: Cuffed

Design

The Cuffed Classic Restraints is an entire system of sturdy restraints made out of rubber. Of course they cover the standard anchor points like wrist and ankle. But they also include thigh and biceps ones for total fixation (well, a body belt is missing but that can easily be made out of one big thigh restraint if you e-mail them nicely) or an extra long boot restraint to tie down MX boots up to wrist suspension cuffs.

The Kevlar reinforced Heavy Rubber Strap

The basic design of the Classic Restraints is a cuff-style like its brother the Rubstraints: The inside layer is made out of two layers of .8mm grade latex. This rubber either comes in classic black or in toyred, organge, yellow, white, green and blue. This makes them ideal to either display a hanky cover or add a dash of color to an all black rubber outfit. There is not padding like on many leather restraints but the rubber is soft enough to feel comfortable. On both side rubber tubing is encased in the same latex to create a cool piping look. The restraints come in two width: 64mm for the nimbler body parts like wrists and ankles and 101mm for the thighs. The thigh restraints have another layer of the industrial rubber covering the body. Otherwise it would warp too easily.

Onto the restaints body, a belt made out of a double layer of Kevlar reinforced black industrial rubber is riveted. For this two pairs of rivets are used between which a D-ring is housed. The wrist restraints has two D-rings, the ankle restraints have three, all with an internal width of 41mm. The thigh restraints feature five D-rings with 53mm with. One end of the belt is equipped with a roller buckle and a locking pin, on the other side there are rivet-reinforced belt holes. If you want to use to locking pin, you can fasten the belt until the third last hole.

The Roller Buckle and Locking Pin

The locking pin has a 4mm hole so most standard locks for restraint locking should fit. If you don’t have locks, I would not recommend buying the ones Cuffed is selling! They are made out of brass, the standard for locks even in the BDSM community – at least when it comes to leather. Brass is one the metals that can cause rubber cancer which is an unfixable! It frankly baffles me that a shop specializing in rubber is selling brass locks. If you want to lock these restraints, either buy aluminum or stainless steel padlocks (my choice are Abus Titalium but there are many other options) or use seals often used on chastity cages.

Like all rubber and latex items, these restraints require special care and handling. Most important: Keep them away from oil and fat, including and especially Crisco! These substances will destroy the rubber! Since there is always a thin film of oil on the human skin, rubber should be washed after each scene either using simple, non-moisturizing dish soap or a special rubber detergent (my detergent of choice is Wonder Wash). Before storing them, make sure they are COMPLETELY dry (often water gets trapped in the tubes used for the piping) and seal the surface either with talcum powder or silicone lube to keep the rubber from oxidation. But regardless how well you take care of the Rubstraints, how thoroughly you clean and protect them from oxidation, they – like all rubber and latex times – will over time get old and finally break! So use them often and well to get the most fun out of them.

The Triple Layer Thigh Restraint

If you want to learn more about rubber and latex, the perfect care and its appeal, check out my Rubber 101.

Playing with the Classic Restraints

This part of the review starts the same way as the review of their Rubstraint brother did 1 ½ years ago: These are rubber restraints the work and can take a beating – just like high quality leather restraints. Period. Most of the force of struggling and fighting is caught by the heavy rubber belt which can take a beating! One testee said “How secure can rubber restraints be?” He was surprised how well they tied him down. And he got really horny when he heard the clicking sound of the padlock through the locking post, realizing the he was now inescapable fettered with rubber in his latex catsuit.

The D-Ring Housing from the Bottom and the Top

Since the basic design with the latex piped lining is the same as on their brothers, the restraint can be worn on bare skin also when struggling hard without chafing.  But there is one major difference between the Classic Restraints and the Rubstraints: The latter has the industrial grade Velcro patch to align both ends of the restraints which is a nifty feature. While the latex of the body is soft and smoth, the tubes for the piping are stiff. This leads to one of the restraint breaking out when putting it on or even slipping when the sub is struggling. When wearing the cuffs are an accessory and putting the wrist restraints on on your own this is especially annoying. It sometimes took me several attempts to shackle the cuffs on my sub and chuckled a bit seeing an experienced to failing for a minute or so to fetter me until his pride allowed him to ask for a third, helping hand. Since rubber (ceteris paribus) does not get broken in, it is going to stay this way. Yes, it is annoying but over time you learn how to handle these restraints.

The Metal Gate Width Difference of the Rubstraint (left) and Classic (right)

Like on most restraints, D-rings are used as attachment points. And since each Classic Restraint has at least two, there are ample of fixation and bracing possibilities. They are wide enough to house more than one rope, tension strap or carabiner and even chains up to 6mm wire strength can be run through them.

An important thing to note is that the metal gate behind the roller buckle which aligns the belt is narrower than the gates on the Rubstraints! Because of this the belt system of Rubstraints is not compatible with the Classic restraints.

Since the Classic Restraints are made out of the same material as the Rubstraints the smell almost obscenely off latex! To protect them from sun light, I store them in a box and opening it releases a cloud of intoxicating rubber smell. And being made out of rubber they can be shined like rubber gear. If they get a bit dull, just take out silicone oil and shine them as glossy as you like them.

Conclusion: Sturdy and colorful rubber restraints.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Sturdy enough even for heavy bondage scenes and strong subs A bit difficult to put on and keep aligned Wrist Restraints 129€
Ankle Restraints 129€
Will age over time and will eventually break
Colorful restraint body
Intense rubber smell and feel Biceps Restraints 129€
More than one anchor point Thigh Restraints 239€
Locking Pin Boot Restraints 249€
Suspension Restraints 299€
Collar 129€

Fetters Leather Arm Binder

The Fetters Arm Binder

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

The center piece of the Arm Binder is a restraint body made out of soft and deliciously smelling garment leather. While it gently wraps around the sub’s body, at 1mm thickness it is sturdy and strong! The restraint roughly has the shape of a sleeping bag’s bottom. The opening at the top is 42cm wide and tapers over the length of 69cm to 12cm at the bottom. This lavish amount of room allows the restraint to be used on all body types, from beefy muscle bulls to slender twinks.

To adjust the sizing and increase the level of bondage, there are two mechanisms. On top of the body there is a rivet reinforced lacing ladder which goes 2/3 down. It is underlaid with a sheet of leather so hair or skin folds do not get caught in the lacing. Onto the back three loops – one on top, on 1/3 and one 2/3 down – out of sturdy bridle leather are riveted. Through these loops belts with roller buckles are threaded. Again, the belts are long yet the holes are punched so far that they are long enough for bigger builds yet can be closed tightly for petit physiques.

The restraint body is fettered to the torso with a simple X-harness using roller buckles. One pair sits on each side of the lacing, another of the leather sack’s back. The roller buckles are held in place by riveted leather loops for a secure fit. The loops are made out of the same 30mm wide bridle leather belts as the harness and the tightening belts.

The Roller Buckle on the Stiff Version of the Bridle Leather Belts

And now we are coming to a part difficult part in this review: The bridle leather on the Arm Binder I am basing this review on is stiff and uncomfortable. Because of this I reached out to Regulation/ Fetters and they assured me that they switched the leather to a softer and thus more flexible variety earlier this year (I have gotten my Arm Binder in March 2021). To make my Arm Binder more usable, I actually commissioned new belts and the harness in the new, softer leather but due to Covid I have not yet gotten these.

Long story short: As you can read below, I like the Arm Binder a lot because they are a hot and kind of degrading toy. But especially for long term scenes, they are only fun when the softer leather is used! As soon as I have gotten the new belts and harness, I will annex this review. As always, if you want to be kept in the loop about such things, follow me on Twitter.

Lateral Belts for Extra Secure & Tight Bondage

Playing with the Leather Arm Binder

Putting the Arm Binders on is easy: The sub simple needs to put his arms behind his back and you pull the restraint body over them. To make it easier, the bottom should fold his hands. The bottom of the leather sack is quite tight yet it is spacious enough for larger hands. But if you want to tie the sub’s hands together, leather cuff restraints or special ones like the awesome Fetters Handlock take up too much space. So if you feel the need to tie them, I recommend soft Velcro quick restraints. But to be honest: Such additional restraints are purely for the mindfuck. Once the harness and the restraint body are connected, there is little chance for the sub to get his arms free.

For safe and long-term play, the harness should rest lightly against the torso and the restraint body should hang as loosely as the arms would. There should be a little wiggle room so the sub can move his shoulders before they become stiff and to ensure circulation. You can tighten the straps more, pulling the arms up. This is a form of stress bondage and should not be done over extended periods of time and monitored closely. The same rules apply to the belts. Tighten them loosely for lightly restraining the sub while increasing both the bondage feeling and inescapability. Tighten them more and you end up with intense stress bondage. Please keep in mind that through the leverage of the belt you can quickly wield strong force on the elbows and shoulders. Both are frailer joints so be careful and don’t overdo it force and time wise!

The Lacing for a Tight Fettering

So much for health and safety. Now on to the fun part. If you fetter the belts in a non-stress tightness, the Leather Arm Binder are great “mobile” restraints. You can put your sub in them for extended periods of time, render his arms useless while he can walk around and has his body more or less exposed for play.  This makes the arm binder the perfect bar/ club restraint. Unlike straitjackets which are equally comfortable over long periods of time but limit the access to the torso, the bottom in these can be easily be expose to chest and gut punching, TT or CBT. Naturally, it is a good piece of bondage gear for group scenes when a sub needs to be “parked”.

On my first look at the toy, I would have wished for D-rings on the side. But in play, I rarley missed them. In the cases where I had to secure my bottom laterally, I simply used carabiners or shackles on the tightening belts as anchor points. Yes, D-rings would be more refined and keep the restricting belts from movement. But they are not essential for enjoying this restraint. As I have written: The Arm Binder is a perfect toy for mobile play. If you want to secure a sub safely laterally on his arms I would recommend  Fetters’ Full Sleeve Bondage Mitts which have plenty of D-rings.

At the Bottom there is a D-Ring for multiple Nifty and Nasty Intricacies

The one D-ring at the bottom is a nifty one though. For a bit of CBT, it can be connected to a chastity cage or a ball stretcher. Since the arm movement is quite limited, the chances of an accident are low. My preferred bondage layout though was running a piece of rope or chain through it to for connecting two ankle restraints. This will properly limit his step range and keeps him from running away. If you want to humiliate him even more, use the D-ring as the anchor point for the leash instead of the collar, focusing the attention onto his groin.

Finally, if you sub needs fuck machine training, this is a good piece of bondage gear to keep the arms out of interferings way when the sub is on a bench. Even when bound in doggy position, the arms can be used to pull forward and escape the machine a bit. With the arms behind the back (preferably lightly suspended upwards) there is little wiggle room. And quite frankly, the image is very hot!

Conclusion: Effective body restraint from light to stress bondage.
Pros Cons Where to get Price
Comfortable and secure to wear even over extended periods of time Few lateral D-rings would be great Regulation £264.99
Bondage intensity finely adjustable
Hot looking bondage positions with good access to “pressure” points

Suspension Hand Slings

The Mr S Suspension Hand Slings

Vendor: Mr S Leather

Construction

The body of this restraint pair is a curvated piece of bridle leather straps.  The bottom is slightly convex to follow the autonomy of the hand’s bottom; the top is protracted. While the body is made out of sturdy leather, it is padded and lined with soft garment leather. Unlike on their cuff-style restraints or the Four Buckle Hand Restraint (more on that later), the padding is rather stiff. This supports the wrist and keeps is upright yet makes the restraints comfortable to wear. For perfect and tight fit on the wrist, the restraint is tightly closed using Velcro and then secured with a roller buckle belt. Next to the buckle is a welded D-ring.

The top of the protracted tip is folded and secured with two rivets to house a tooled aluminum bar. On both end of the bar, panic carabiners with big, welded O-rings on the end connect the bar to another strap of bridle leather. This is threaded through the two O-rings. Between two rivets which hold the strap together sits another panic carabiner.

The Roller Buckle and D-ring on the back

Like all panic (or security as they are also called) carabiners they can turn to adjust a bit to the sub’s movement. There are no sharp edges to prevent damage on ropes. The release for the opening is tooled and textured for best grip even in stress situations.

Playing with the Suspension Hand Slings

When I have gotten these restraints this summer, they marked the end of era for me: For almost 10 years I have been using the Four Buckle Hand Restraints from Mr S for any kind of bondage and fettering. They were actually part of my first ever order from Mr S. But, when fettering someone on a standing position like on a St Andrews Cross, the Four Buckle Hand Restraints were not the best choice. The D-ring positioning was not perfect if you needed to hold onto something and panic carabiners were always a given in case the bottom collapsed (which luckily has never happened to me yet but happens more often than you probably think).

Connection of the Panic Carabiners with the Aluminum Bar

The Suspension Hand Slings fix all that! It is rare that a piece of (specialized) bondage gear instantly becomes part of my standard (or in this case flogging) play bag but the Suspension Hand Slings did just that. They were designed for the anchor point being above the restraint so there is no stressful horizontal pull on the wrists like when the D-ring is parallel to the arm. The layout and material choice is the perfect sweet spot between rigidity and stiffness for wrist support but not cutting of circulation and allowing enough leeway for the fingers and hand to move bit. Even when broken and getting softer in, they retain enough stiffness.

Stressful situations like being subjected to pain or being suspended can lead to circulation problems even on fit subs. Because of this, when doing suspension or just having a subs fettered standing, you should always use panic carabiners yet I rarely see them in public play spaces. Luckily, in these restraints they are built in. They look and feel like professional sailing equipment though sadly there is no kN value printed or engraved on them. In order to release them, twist the capsule 180° and even under pull they will open. The capsule is kept in place with a coil spring which is just strong enough to keep it in place but prevents the capsule from turning. Because twisting the capsule is such a satisfying feeling (yeah, I know that sometimes I am weird), I often just play around with the capsule. I have not counted how often I turned it but I have not noticed the spring getting any softer or the capsule developing any give.

The Velcro Fastener next the Padded and Garment Leather Lined Inside of the Restraint

Speaking of carabiners: Despite the rigid fettering, due to the twisting carabiners, there is a bit movement possible for the sub to work out sensations. This is important because swift, uncontrolled movements caused by pain could otherwise lead to injuries when the wrist is constrained by the cuff. Especially when whipping someone, I have subs doing pull-ups in these restraints because the bars provide such good support. So when doing extreme pain play I highly recommend also to put the ankles in bondage.

While this toy is called Suspension Hand Sling a word of caution is in order: Suspending someone solely vertically from their wrist, puts extreme stress on the joints, especially the wrists and the shoulders. There are some very well trained subs with extreme upper body muscles who can endure this stress position for a limited time. But neither your sub not you should over-estimate what he can do. So when doing suspension, check-in more often as usual.

The Panic Carabiners

I have also gotten a few reader questions about horizontal suspension with these restraints. In theory it works when the bottom is lying on his back. But you have to thread a tension strap or rope through the D-ring on the body to the major pull of the arm weight is caught there. But still what little pull is left, will make the tip bend upwards causing stress on the wrists. So for horizontal suspension I recommend the Four Buckle restraints.

If in a scene the need for another wrist restraint arises and you have these restraints in your play bag you can detach the part with the carabiners from the bar completely and use what is left as a standard restraint cuff. But since the restraint cannot be turned on the wrist, the D-ring always stays on the bottom of the hand which is a bit unpractical.

Conclusion: Best and most secure restraint for fettering hands above the hand.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Secure and save to use even in extreme bondage situations One trick pony Mr S Leather $239.95
Professional panic carabiners
Extremely well made and thought out

Fetters Full Sleeve Bondage Mitts

The Fetters Full Sleeve Bondage Mitts

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

Like on all Fetters leather bondage items, the first thing that strikes you is the strong and rich smell of high quality leather. Second, you will notice that like all bondage mitts from Fetters they are sold in pairs (it pains me that I have to point that out when looking at the competition…). The main body of each restraint is a 640mm long mitt made out of soft leather. The circumference at the top is 400mm which is large enough for most subs though body builders might want to get a custom version.

Detail of the Top D-ring

For about 2/3 of the body’s back there is a lacing to fetter the mitts tightly to the arm. The lacing using nylon string is strong enough for a tight fit and restricts the arm movement. Yet it is not strong enough to completely keep the elbow from bending. What really keeps the restraints bound to the arm are two 25mm wide bridle leather belts with roller buckles, one going around the wrist, the other going around the biceps sitting 70mm below the top of the mitts. The top strap is not riveted onto the body but runs to a pair of D-rings sitting, one on each side of the lacing. There are two more pairs, each 120mm apart. The wrist belt is riveted onto the mitt. On top of the mitts another strap is riveted perpendicular onto the belt. With this strap and two pairs of rivets a D-ring is housed at the bottom of the mitts. A final D-ring can be found on the top, next to the lacing.

Detail of the Bottom D-ring

Playing with the Full Sleeve Bondage Mitts

Through the size and the area these mitts cover, I consider them “body bondage” items. Putting them on a sub takes a bit of work and time. But it is also part of the fun with these restraints. In the process is also a sense of drama in it, taking away more and more the ability of his arms to move and letting him feel the contrast between the soft touch and tightening of the leather – especially if the sub has a leather fetish. Just like with the Bishop Head Harness, “ritualistically” putting the mitts on sets the moods and helps getting into headspace.

Through the D-ring layout, these mitts can naturally work as a cuff restraints substitute in almost any situation. Most fun was had by my testees in spread eagle position or when having their arms tied upwards laying in the sling. In this position the degree of bondage can easily be increased by connecting the D-rings to the sling chains.

Detail of the Lacing and the lateral D-ring pairs

But the full sleeve mitts really start to shine when you connect the top D-rings to a (bulldog) harness and leave the bed (room) with your sub. With just loosening the lacing a bit, adding a strap to connect the bottom D-rings and interconnecting the lateral D-rings on both mitts, you have a veritable straitjacket sleeve substitute. For a stricter layout with less wiggle room, tie the arms to the side using a full body bondage harness. Then thread a belt through the bottom D-rings and fasten it around the thighs and the leather gimp can (somewhat) walk about without moving his arms. Personally I enjoyed most using the Full Sleeve Bondage Mitts in a bondage frame. The many attachments points inside the frame in combination with the many D-rings enabled me to fetter a sub securely enough to flog him.

Detail of the Roller Buckles

Since I like the esthetics and the helplessness, I tried turning the full sleeve mitts into arm binder by connecting the bottom D-rings with a shackle and the other D-rings with belts. The layout worked but a word of caution is necessary: Do not tighten the belts too tightly or too quickly. Unlike restraints for this specific purpose like the Fetters Leather Arm Binder you can easily get to a degree of tension that puts too much stress on the shoulders and elbows or restricts blood flow to the hands. So if you are a fan of “tighter is better”, I highly recommend adding specific arm binder restraints to your collection. A safer (and what turned out more fun) way is running a piece of rope through both bottom D-rings and a D-ring at the bottom of a parachute with spikes. This will limit the arm movement too – sooner or later.

Detail of the Lower Roller Buckle is connected to the Botto, D-ring

Another setup a top testee did but I would not recommend it connecting the top D-rings to a collar. The chances of the sub strangling himself or causing disc injuries are too high in my opinion.

Of course, through the many D-rings, these bondage mitts are an ideal addition to rope bondage. The simplest ways is tying the top D-rings into a torso harness or the bottom ones to the thighs. But an experienced rigger will surely find more creative ways to make use of all the D-rings like body harness or tying two subs together a rope-inexperienced person like me cannot imagine.

If the mitts with the lacing are not strict enough, I recommend buying two 40cm – 50cm (depending on the leeway you want to allow) spreader bars. Connect one end to the bottom D-ring, the other to the two D-ring holding the biceps strap in place to severely limit the arm movement.

Conclusion: Restrictive and versatile piece body bondage gear.
Pros Cons Where to get Price
Covers large body area for strong bondage and leather feeling Takes time to put on sub Regulation £275
…. but lacing alone only has limited restriction
14 D-ring in total
Connection bottom and top D-ring with a spread bar easily increases bondage degree massively …

Vector Heavy Padded Bondage Sleeves

The Mr S Leather Vector Heavy Padded Bondage Sleeves

Vendor: Mr S Leather

Design

Mr S calls this toy “Bondage Sleeves” but I  would find the term “Straitjacket Sleeves” more appropriate because that is what this toy is: The sleeves of the Vector Straitjacket I reviewed last week combined with a harness to tie them to the body.

The harness looks like a hybrid of a Bulldog and a Y harness. In the front there is a 14cm long horizontal piece of leather with a D-ring in the middle. The O-rings left and right of this leather piece is housing each a belt going over the shoulder and a belt going under the shoulder around the back. Connecting both belts using the roller buckle which is riveted on one of them will fetter the harness to the sub’s body. The belts going over the shoulder connect to an O-ring by two roller buckles riveted with leather loops to it. A 6cm long vertical piece of leather connects this O-ring to another one. This O-ring is the anchor point for the two belts onto which the sleeves are attached.

Detail of the 3 D-rings on the Sleeves‘ Side

The sleeves are basically like the ones on the Vector Padded Straitjacket from Mr S: Unlined leather sleeves with thick foam padding sown on the upper and lower arm and an unpadded elbow to allow the arm to bend. On the sides of each sleeve there are three D-ring riveted to the body using the same soft and sturdy bridle leather the belts are made out of. The bottom of the sleeve looks like his big brother: Left and right D-rings, roller buckle in the middle to connect both them. They have an internal length of 76cm and a circumference of 65cm so even beefy bodybuilders should fit. Speaking of fit: Unlike last week’s straitjacket, this is a one-size-fits-all piece of gear. But the belt going around the back has a total length of 110cm, the belts to connect the sleeves with the harness can add another 25cm to the internal length so there is plenty of space for beefy and thick bottom boys wearing this piece of bondage gear. This adjustability is a true feat for tops that play with subs of different body types!

The Harness for Fettering the Sleeves to the Body

The Vector Sleeves come with the same amount of straps as the Vector Straitjacket: A 76cm long one with only holes to connect the sleeves, 6 traditional belts with roller buckles (2x 85cm and 4x 60cm) and a 4x 60cm and a 23cm long piece with roller buckles on both ends. This allows for the same two basic bondage layouts: Either use a belt to tie both sleeves folded in front of the torso together and connect to the front D-ring or threat a belt through the D-rings at the sleeve’s bottom and tie them around the thighs.

After all this years, I guess I do not have to write too much about the Mr S’ leather quality: Both the garment and the bridle leather is soft, yet sturdy and smells great.

Detail of the D-ring housing

Playing with the Vector Padded Bondage Sleeves

Since the design of this toy is so close to a straitjacket, bondage-wise is almost works like one. When the arms are folded in front of the body and adding the vertical belt for added restrictiveness, the bondage degree is a little bit lower because the belt is only attached to one instead of two D-rings. But luckily a stainless steel cockring can easily be used as a second anchor point. Naturally, also the feeling of leather tightly hugging the torso is not there.

But that is not scenario for which you would buy this piece of bondage gear. If you want that, buy a straitjacket! There are three major scenarios for this toy: First, it is for people who want to show off year gear. Especially at bars or street fares, some tops want their subs to display what they are (not) wearing while still securing them tightly. Related to this scenario are subs who easily overheat. For these people layering up by putting a straitjacket over their gear is not an option. There are even people like a close friend of mine who even when just lying bound in a normally heated room cannot have a long-term bondage scene in a straitjacket because he gets too hot.

Detail of the Connection Between Harness and Sleeves

Finally and probably most importabtky, there is the (almost) full body access appeal of this toy and personally I fall into this category. While last week I wrote that the Vector Padded Straitjacket is the best straitjacket I have ever played with, I use the Vector Sleeves way more often in scenes! My testees and I had scenes involving sensation play, knife play or even flogging which are usually not associated with the bondage level straitjackets of. There even were some wax play scene though it is only for experienced/ really masochistic subs. In order to limit the chance of wax hitting the leather, the drop distance should be relatively low which means the heat increases dramatically. Naturally, nipple access if way better than on a traditional straitjacket and since there are not straps below the chest, CBT, fucking and fisting works without a problem. There is a final, a bit borderline target audience: Fursuiters into bondage. The plush fursuits are made out of is often so thick would make a separate straitjacket for fursuit bondage necessary (not beginning to talk about the heat problems there…). And I have not even started with fur getting caught in zippers or Velcro. The large body size range these Vector Sleeves cover makes them ideal for capturing anthropomorphic subs.

The Sleeve Ends with Roller Buckle and Two D-rings

While its big brother has 19 D-rings, the sleeves “only” have 9. This difference may sound drastic, but 9 are ample in most situations.  Regardless if standing in a bondage frame, tying the sub to a pole or spread eagle on a bed, there are enough anchor points to fetter the arms and upper torso properly. For added bondage, simply thread rope of tensions straps through the O-rings. Though if you need to tie the lower torso, you will need a bondage belt. Since the D-rings are on the outside of the sleeves they can easily be tied tighter to the torso by threading a belt through them.

Conclusion: Combination of a straitjackert’s bondage sensation with great play access.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Intense bondage while leaving large body areas exposed for play Only one D-ring for tying the arm down in front of the body Mr S (Manufacturer) $879.95
One size fits all
Arms can be tied in front of body or on the sides
Many D-rings
Many additional straps for creative bondage scenarios

Vector Padded Straitjacket

The Mr S Leather Vector Padded Straitjacket

Vendor: Mr S Leather

Design

Like all straitjackets the basis of this piece of bondage gear is a unlined leather “jacket” with extra-long, closed sleeves. The jacket opens at the back and is closed using industrial strength Velcro. The frontab, the upper and lower arm are heavily padded with thick panels of v-shaped stitched down, leather covered foam cushions. Left and right of the padding run each a 15cm long lateral zipper (in size M) for nipple access.

To fasten the straitjacket tightly onto the sub’s body, there are 5 bridle leather belts with roller buckles on the back. For added security, there is another belt around the collar and onto the bottom of the jacket two belts are riveted. These go around the thighs and through the crotch. For securing the arms, there are roller buckles at the end of each sleeve. The jacket comes with a 76cm long belt only with holes to connect those two. To keep the arms in place there is a pair of D-rings between the padding on the front. Use one of the additional belts (2x 85cm, 4x 60cm and a 23cm long piece with roller buckles on both ends) that come with the straitjacket to fasten them to the front. At the end of the sleeves there is a D-ring left and right of the roller buckle. When you thread a belt to those two and fasten it around the thigh, the arms can be tied down parallel to the torso.

The Array of D-rings on the Side

Speaking of D-rings there are a lot on this straitjacket. Like, really a lot! There are three around the collar, the two in the front, two at the end of each sleeve, three on each side of the jacket. Onto the jacket body is a 6.5cm wide piece of folded garment leather sown. Being thinner it is a bit softer than the jackets unlined leather. So if you thread a belt through the pairs of D-ring on each side, it tightly closes around the body. All D-rings are securely housed under straps of bridle leather, attached to the body using sturdy rivets.

Like all products leaving the workshops from Mr S, the leather is top notch. It is soft, has a beautiful grain, subtle light shiny luster and smells deliciously! Despite all these “cuddly” attributes, the leather is heavy duty and means business! The belts are strong enough to rein in even the strongest sub.

The Velcro Strap for Closing the Straitjacket

Since Mr S manufactures all their gear in-house in San Francisco and has a custom department, you can always literally tailor the straitjacket to your own demands. This starts with simple requests like needing a smaller or larger size or stitching colors and goes over colored leather (a friend got this straitjacket with red leather covering the padding) to complete design modification. I’ve done smaller modification on other toys in the past (had I but world enough for ALL my kinky dreams…) and they are extremely kind and helpful. They put all their expertise and experience into getting you the gear you want. But be prepared to wait a bit for the finished product to arrive.

The Straps on the Back to Tightly Fasten the Straitjacket Around the Body

Playing with the Vector Padded Straitjacket

Let’s start out this part of the review with the only big point of discussion among my testees: The way you close the straitjacket. About 60% of the people that played with the Vector straitjacket would have preferred a zipper closure. Closing a zipper gradually increases the level of restriction and a good zipper can take a bit of struggle. So once the jacket is zipped up a bit, the restrictive feeling kicks in. With the strap of Velcro you need a still standing sub to align both sides properly. Don’t get me wrong: The wrong, the Velcro is industrial strength and once closed can absorb a lot of force. But you need a sub to willingly submit to get into this straitjacket. As this is how I play with my subs, the Velcro did not bother me but apparently it is something to think about before choosing this straitjacket.

The Thigh Strap

That being said, the Vector Padded Straitjacket passed with flying color! It is actually the best straitjacket I ever played with. The thickness of the leather and the padding strikes the right balance of being comfortable over extended periods of time and intense feeling of bondage. Once all the belts are fastened, the leather wraps tightly around the body. The belts are 35mm wide, so when they are being pulled tight through the roller buckle, the pull force is transferred onto a large body area. Since there are so many belts to close, putting the straitjacket on has a great sense of drama, feeling how the ability to move is taken away while the soft leather hugs the skin increasingly tightly. This makes this straitjacket a treat for every leather fetishist. The thick hide with the massive, stainless steel trims add up to a weight of almost 5kg! Wearing this straitjacket wears you down in a good way. It feels solid, heavy, restricting and that’s what a good piece of heavy body bondage should do.

The Sleeve Ends with Roller Buckle and Two D-rings

When you have read other reviews from me, I usually say “More D-rings are better!” But the Vector Padded Straitjackets features a total of 19 D-rings! Yes, I can think of borderline situations where more D-rings would be useful and I have thought “Oh, a D-ring on the shoulder or the elbow would have been nice.” But thus discussion is academic! The many D-rings are enough for almost every bondage situation, regardless if lying down with the arms folded in a sling, tied a spread eagle on a bed, fixed to a pole or in a bondage frame. The strong way the D-rings are attached to the straitjacket comes in handy especially when the sub is standing up. If using strong enough fettering mediums like rope, industrial tension straps or chain, the sub can lean into the D-rings and the straitjacket will support him.

The Zipper for Nipple Access

Play access to important body parts is good with the Vector straitjacket. Like all belts, the ones running through the crotch are soft and have been thoroughly deburred. So even fetter the straitjacket onto bare thighs, the leather will not cut into the skin or cause friction burn when moving quickly. So the dick and balls can be carelessness exposed for CBT or a top must not worry about discomfort when fucking or fisting his bound boy. The nipple access is as good as you would expect. Since it is only a straight zipper in a rigid material like leather, the opening extends only so much. In most cases the nipples below were in reach and clamps or even suction cups could be applied easily. But it is definitely too tight for wax play or extended licking and biting. For this kind of play, you need a straitjacket with tit flaps! All that things being said, it is still the padded straitjacket with the best tit access.

Conclusion: Best straitjacket I have played with so far.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Soft leather, thick padding and many straps lead to intense feeling of bondage Velcro instead of zipper to close Mr S (Manufacturer) $1,795
Limited Off the Rack Size Range
Arms can be tied in front of body or on the sides
Nipple Access
Many D-rings
Many additional straps for creative bondage scenarios

 

 

 

Rubstraints

The Cuffed Rubstraints with Various Connectors

Vendor: Cuffed

Rubber is one of the major fetishes out there and was actually my first fetish (more on that in some rare personal words at the end of this review). Often, a rubber fetish comes along with a love for bondage (rubber drones being forcefully reprogrammed anyone?). Sadly due to rubber being a fragile material and complex to process – especially when you want to compensate the fragility – there are few “good” rubber restraints out there. So many people mix rubber gear with leather restraints which for a true and only rubber lover is a painful compromise and thus messages asking for product recommendations in that regard are frequent. So when my dear friend StormWolf from Belgium drew my attention to the Cuffed restraints during his visit to Darklands earlier this year, I was thrilled and amazed because they looked very promising. Not wanting to anticipate the final verdict too much but they exceeded my expectations.

Design

The Rubstraints follow the design of all premium cuff-style restraints: A soft body that hugs tightly around the joint is connected to a sturdy belt that absorbs the force of the struggling sub. Unlike their leather cousins, the body is not padded but made out of two layers of 0.9mm grade rubber. Along the long edges of the body runs a rubber tubes covered in thin rubber to create the impression of piping. Onto the body, a double layer of Kevlar reinforced industrial rubber is riveted. On one side a rough patch of Velcro is glued and riveted on the belt while a small fleecy patch is at the other end of the body. The second belt houses two stainless steel gates with a clearing above the rubber of 11x51mm, a locking pin and roller buckle. There are 10 rivet-reinforced holes for closing the buckle. If you want to used the locking pin, you can fasten the belt up to the 7th hole (if you use the widest setting of the Velcro the 6th hole).

Detail of the Rubstraint’s Metal Closing & Locking Trims

For the locking mechanism Cuffed uses genuine Segufix locking pins, locks and keys so you can mix and match with your existing set. What sets them apart from standard Segufix equipment is that 11mm below the top, there is a 4mm hole drilled into the locking pin. This hole is designed to lock the restraints onto your sub if the Segufix locks seem to unsecure for you. However, since the top of the hole is aligned with the bottom of the Segufix lock neither my testees (useing ABUS Titalium) nor me (using Master Lock, please don’t ask my which line…) could find a lock which shackle was long enough which body was thin enough to fit below the lock. So you have to choose between the Segufix and the padlock. Alternatively, use seals like the ones for chastity cages so at least you know when your sub broke out.

Two Rubstraints connected using the Shorty Connector

The two restraints I have used for this review are wrist and ankle restraints. The wrist restraints cover a joint circumference of 14cm to 22cm, the ankle restraints 20cm to 28cm. A question I genuinely get often in regard of other restraints: If you have thin ankles, you can of course use wrist restraints on them or vice versa if you have strong wrists! Especially the industrial rubber is stiffer than leather. So the restraints have little give. Furthermore the basic tension inside the restraints means that the buckle pin will not rest on the roller when you just leave one hole between the buckle and the locking pin.

Along with the restraints themselves, you can order various connection belts. They are made out of the same Kevlar reinforced industrial rubber as the belts on the restraints and are just wide enough to perfectly fit inside the stainless steel gates. But since they do not have skin contact, they are not lined with soft latex. The core of each of these connectors is a Segufix locking pin. For the basic Shorty connector there are two rivet-reinforced holes. If you push them over the locking pin they create two loops for connecting two restraints. Another iteration of this design adds a stainless steel gate perpendicular to the rubber belt. For longer distances there are also adjustable, there are belts out there (ingenious product naming!). Instead of having just two holes wide enough apart to create the loops, the have a traditional belt hole layout. Additionally they are equipped with two stainless steel gates for added connectivity.

Detail of the Latex Body and Industrial Rubber Belts

Nota bene: While for this review I only looked at the cuffed restraints most often used in bondage, Cuffed created an entire system around the design also featuring collars, biceps and thigh restraints or a wide bondage belt. So they have gotten you covered for more elaborate or stricter bondage scenes.

If you have a medical/ asylum fetish that is not satisfied by the professional lock system Cuffed offers some of the restraints, belts and connectors off the rack with a tan belts and beige bodies. I am sure if you want other restraints from the system currently not included in this collection like the thigh restraints, they are open for custom commissions.

Like all rubber and latex items, the Rubstraints require a bit special care. Most important: Keep them away from oil and fat, including and especially Crisco! These substances will destroy the rubber! Since there is always a thin film of oil on the human skin, rubber should be washed after each scene either using simple, non-moisturizing dish soap or a special rubber detergent (my detergent of choice is Wonder Wash). Before storing them, make sure they are COMPLETELY dry (often water gets trapped in the tubes used for the piping) and seal the surface either with talcum powder or silicone lube to keep the rubber from oxidation. But regardless how well you take care of the Rubstraints, how thoroughly you clean and protect them from oxidation, they – like all rubber and latex times – will over time get old and finally break! So use them often and well to get the most fun out of them.

The Logo printed inside the Cuffs

If you want to learn more about rubber and latex, the perfect are and its appeal, check out my Rubber 101.

Playing with the Rubstraints

This is the first time I have ever written this about a piece of rubber bondage gear (except body bondage items lick sleeping bags): They work as well as their leather counterparts. The latex piped lining creates a soft and sharp edge-free surface that can actually be worn on bare skin over extended periods of time – even on a struggling sub! – without chafing. The thought-out placing of the rivets that connects the body to the belt diverts most of the force of a struggling sub to only the belt which is strong enough to deal even with strong subs. A testee submitted a body builder sub of his to tough e-stim torture and there was no noticeable wear and tear on the rubber or the rivets. So any rubber scene, any latex fantasy you would normally resort to using leather restraints can be turned into reality using the Rubstraints.

Detail of the Velcro

The most noticeable design difference to leather restraints is that as anchor points the Rubstraints use gates instead of D-rings. While this is an unusual decision I actually like the look at lot. It adds to the sleek, technical look and feel the thick, hard-edged rubber belts create. A drawback is that threading rope is difficult and attaching climbing carabiner is impossible. This is a very personal opinion and play preference of (most of) my testees and me but in our opinion “classic” rope clashes a bit with the modern look. “Rough” chain (with shackles as connectors) or “high-tech” nylon tension straps are a better match. The great advantage of gates are that if tied with enough tension and facing towards the short sides, the bondage medium stays in the corner and does not travel towards the apex like they have the tendencies on D-rings.

The Belt connected to a 90 Connector

The gates are also the foundation to incorporate the belt-style accessories. This is what set the Rubstraints really apart from all the other cuff style leather restraints I have reviewed and played with so far. The rubber straps being almost as wide as the gates, there is little vertical wiggle room so they create a stricter bondage than a carabiner would. Since they come in a variety of length, the severity of the bondage can be adjusted. For example, instead of using a belt to connect the ankle restraints and limiting the movement of the sub, a testee used the short Shorty which leave about 50mm of movement space. This leave the sub the theoretical possibility of walking around but practically it take a lot of practice to not fall over his own feet. Practice, easily enforces when tugging on his collar. Due to the added gate, the 90 are a bit wider (and actually come in two sizes).  While they take a bit away the strictness between the limbs, they add versatility. Now you can connect the two restraints pairs with either a short belt for a hogtie or a longer one when for a standing sub to create an interesting way to limit his movements (every time he takes a step, there will be a tugging on his wrists which especially when tied tightly behind his back adds another difficulty level). If you are more of a sadist, add a (spiked) parachute to his balls, run the rope through the gate and attach a weight. In this instance, the rope will travel from one corner to the other, causing the weight to swing, making the sub move and the weight swings more. There are many, creative, vicious and aesthetical pleasing ways to play with the connector. On the website from Cuffed there is a short, still extending guide with examples. So check this out if you need more inspiration. Another benefit of the rubber connectors are that they do not disturb the clean all-rubber and steel look the Rubstraints laid the basis for.

The Genuine Segufix Lock with Genuine Key

And last but definitely not least: The fetish aspect. They smell like a good piece of rubber gear should smell. The smell is so intense that opening up the box I store them in feels like opening my rubber closet. As for the looks the industrial rubber of the belts can either be high-shined to match latex suits yet is dull enough to appeal to the lovers of the rougher, dry or hazmat suit look. Other testee subs loved the Segufix lock. They bring a professional and heavy duty feel to the restraints. Especially a blindfolded sub familiar with the Segufix system will know what the faint and subtle “click” means when the lock is pushed over the locking pin.

A Personal Word from ToyTorture

Despite all the personal experience I try to make these reviews as objective as possible. So I have never written a truly personal opinion about a toy. But given the circumstances, I feel it necessary for this toy.

Rubber was my first true fetish and slowly venturing into the fetish, kink and BDSM scene, I first struggled a bit with good bondage gear were only available in leather. So locking back at my own past, I was genuinely excited for these restraints. When I opened the parcel, a wave of intoxicating rubber smell hit me! It was almost like Rubber@LAB – minus the smell of piss and poppers. I got them end of August and I was SO locking forward to using them on me, on subs, as photo prop. But due to the current circumstances, I only managed to get a few scenes as a top with them and was glad that I have testees with live-in subs to get more opinions on the toy for a review as you would expect it of ToyTorture.com.

ADarkGuy hogtied by ToyTorture using the Rubstraints

Yet still, every time I open the storage box for the Rubstraints in my playroom and smell the rubber and I see the shiny surface and feel the cold stainless steel I am heart-broken that a toy holding so much potential, so many fantasies inside them is just laying dead and unused in a box. So I truly hope that things will get better soon, that some time next year, I will lock these restraints around a rubber sub at Quälgeist or join one of my tops to Rubber@LAB. But for the moment these excellent pieces of bondage gear, German art of engineering and craftsmanship are a good example for all the things to look forward to once this pandemic is over.

Conclusion: The most effective, sturdy, fetish-please, thought-out and high quality rubber restraints.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Sturdy enough even for heavy bondage scenes and strong subs Will age over time and will eventually break Rubstraints Wrist Cuffs 169€
Rubstraints Ankle Cuffs 169€
Intense rubber smell and feel
Shorty Connector (2 pieces) 34,90€
Two anchor points 90 Connector 24,90€
Thought-out accessory system 90 Long Connector 29,90€
Belt 50 39,90€
Belt Back 59,90€