Classic Restraints

The Cuffed Classic Restraints

Quick note: ToyTorture.com is still on hiatus until after Ascension. But I have been getting so many questions about the Cuffed Classis Restraints that I decided to take a break from the break and write this review today.

Vendor: Cuffed

Design

The Cuffed Classic Restraints is an entire system of sturdy restraints made out of rubber. Of course they cover the standard anchor points like wrist and ankle. But they also include thigh and biceps ones for total fixation (well, a body belt is missing but that can easily be made out of one big thigh restraint if you e-mail them nicely) or an extra long boot restraint to tie down MX boots up to wrist suspension cuffs.

The Kevlar reinforced Heavy Rubber Strap

The basic design of the Classic Restraints is a cuff-style like its brother the Rubstraints: The inside layer is made out of two layers of .8mm grade latex. This rubber either comes in classic black or in toyred, organge, yellow, white, green and blue. This makes them ideal to either display a hanky cover or add a dash of color to an all black rubber outfit. There is not padding like on many leather restraints but the rubber is soft enough to feel comfortable. On both side rubber tubing is encased in the same latex to create a cool piping look. The restraints come in two width: 64mm for the nimbler body parts like wrists and ankles and 101mm for the thighs. The thigh restraints have another layer of the industrial rubber covering the body. Otherwise it would warp too easily.

Onto the restaints body, a belt made out of a double layer of Kevlar reinforced black industrial rubber is riveted. For this two pairs of rivets are used between which a D-ring is housed. The wrist restraints has two D-rings, the ankle restraints have three, all with an internal width of 41mm. The thigh restraints feature five D-rings with 53mm with. One end of the belt is equipped with a roller buckle and a locking pin, on the other side there are rivet-reinforced belt holes. If you want to use to locking pin, you can fasten the belt until the third last hole.

The Roller Buckle and Locking Pin

The locking pin has a 4mm hole so most standard locks for restraint locking should fit. If you don’t have locks, I would not recommend buying the ones Cuffed is selling! They are made out of brass, the standard for locks even in the BDSM community – at least when it comes to leather. Brass is one the metals that can cause rubber cancer which is an unfixable! It frankly baffles me that a shop specializing in rubber is selling brass locks. If you want to lock these restraints, either buy aluminum or stainless steel padlocks (my choice are Abus Titalium but there are many other options) or use seals often used on chastity cages.

Like all rubber and latex items, these restraints require special care and handling. Most important: Keep them away from oil and fat, including and especially Crisco! These substances will destroy the rubber! Since there is always a thin film of oil on the human skin, rubber should be washed after each scene either using simple, non-moisturizing dish soap or a special rubber detergent (my detergent of choice is Wonder Wash). Before storing them, make sure they are COMPLETELY dry (often water gets trapped in the tubes used for the piping) and seal the surface either with talcum powder or silicone lube to keep the rubber from oxidation. But regardless how well you take care of the Rubstraints, how thoroughly you clean and protect them from oxidation, they – like all rubber and latex times – will over time get old and finally break! So use them often and well to get the most fun out of them.

The Triple Layer Thigh Restraint

If you want to learn more about rubber and latex, the perfect care and its appeal, check out my Rubber 101.

Playing with the Classic Restraints

This part of the review starts the same way as the review of their Rubstraint brother did 1 ½ years ago: These are rubber restraints the work and can take a beating – just like high quality leather restraints. Period. Most of the force of struggling and fighting is caught by the heavy rubber belt which can take a beating! One testee said “How secure can rubber restraints be?” He was surprised how well they tied him down. And he got really horny when he heard the clicking sound of the padlock through the locking post, realizing the he was now inescapable fettered with rubber in his latex catsuit.

The D-Ring Housing from the Bottom and the Top

Since the basic design with the latex piped lining is the same as on their brothers, the restraint can be worn on bare skin also when struggling hard without chafing.  But there is one major difference between the Classic Restraints and the Rubstraints: The latter has the industrial grade Velcro patch to align both ends of the restraints which is a nifty feature. While the latex of the body is soft and smoth, the tubes for the piping are stiff. This leads to one of the restraint breaking out when putting it on or even slipping when the sub is struggling. When wearing the cuffs are an accessory and putting the wrist restraints on on your own this is especially annoying. It sometimes took me several attempts to shackle the cuffs on my sub and chuckled a bit seeing an experienced to failing for a minute or so to fetter me until his pride allowed him to ask for a third, helping hand. Since rubber (ceteris paribus) does not get broken in, it is going to stay this way. Yes, it is annoying but over time you learn how to handle these restraints.

The Metal Gate Width Difference of the Rubstraint (left) and Classic (right)

Like on most restraints, D-rings are used as attachment points. And since each Classic Restraint has at least two, there are ample of fixation and bracing possibilities. They are wide enough to house more than one rope, tension strap or carabiner and even chains up to 6mm wire strength can be run through them.

An important thing to note is that the metal gate behind the roller buckle which aligns the belt is narrower than the gates on the Rubstraints! Because of this the belt system of Rubstraints is not compatible with the Classic restraints.

Since the Classic Restraints are made out of the same material as the Rubstraints the smell almost obscenely off latex! To protect them from sun light, I store them in a box and opening it releases a cloud of intoxicating rubber smell. And being made out of rubber they can be shined like rubber gear. If they get a bit dull, just take out silicone oil and shine them as glossy as you like them.

Conclusion: Sturdy and colorful rubber restraints.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Sturdy enough even for heavy bondage scenes and strong subs A bit difficult to put on and keep aligned Wrist Restraints 129€
Ankle Restraints 129€
Will age over time and will eventually break
Colorful restraint body
Intense rubber smell and feel Biceps Restraints 129€
More than one anchor point Thigh Restraints 239€
Locking Pin Boot Restraints 249€
Suspension Restraints 299€
Collar 129€

What to Gift ToyTorture?

Roll call! Who wants to get me something for my birthday? Nobody? Well, if anyone should change their mind, you still have six weeks to get me something 😉

The House of Bascanio Padded & Locking M5 Muzzle

Seriously, question I get asked most in online chats or conversations in bars or clubs is “You have tested everything! Is there any sex or kink toy you still need or want?” The easy part first: Need? Most certainly not! As much as I am fascinated by cleverly designed kink toys, with a bag of pervertables I can recreate the same effect though not the feeling! But because I am fascinated by cleverly designed kink toys there is a neverending lists of toys I would love to add to my collection. The selection is highly subjective because these are the toys I find personally intriguing without considering review requests. Before I write my top 5ish toys, please note: I could write an entire volume of anal toys I want. So I am leaving these toys out.

The Many, Many D-rings on the M5 Muzzle

House of Bascanio M5 Muzzle

If you have been following my bondage reviews you know, the only thing that is better than a D-ring are MOAR D-rings. The M5 Muzzle takes this to the max. How many D-rings can you fit on a head? Apparently the answer is “At least 15!” Are those all necessary? Most certainly not! Judging from my experience, 9 is the max to get the same level of fettering. Maybe even 7 are enough. But who cares? The ingenuity and craftsmanship that have cumulated into the creation into this unique piece of bondage gear in combination with the thick padding make me want to add this muzzle to my collection and put on CERTAIN subs (you know who you are).

Since the M5 Muzzle is such an extravagant piece of bondage gear, I am actually unsure about the design. Would I like it two-tone with red padding? Or just black with red stitching? But I guess in the end the practical pervert  in me would win and go for an all black I can easily clean and treat with black leather oil.

The Mr S Leather Savage Sucks Hood

And apparently my personal taste coincides with you, my reader’s taste. Looking at my little Excel sheet there are literally hundreds of review requests for this toy. So gifting me the toys would be kind of a public service.

Mr S Leather Savage Sucks and Asylum Hood

The Savage Sucks is the perfect addition to the M5 Muzzle! Dehumanizes the wearer, turn him into a multi-layer leather gimp. And if you need his tongual service, unlock the muzzle, let him serve and lock his mouth up again.

The Mr S Leather Asylum Hood

Being perforated it also is the perfect piece of gear for all those subs of me who wants or need to be anonymous. To shatter a common misconception: Even dom tops enjoy the occasional endorphin rush of being handled and played with. Sadly due to Fans-sites their livelihood depends on their image of being pure dom sadists and thus cannot be seen in public riding the pleasurable waves of pain and degradation. A perforated hood they can see through but nobody can see their face would be a great tool for those special Quälgeist visits.

To break with my rule of only five toys, here is another piece of Mr S headgear which I’d love (or hate) to have: The Asylum Hood. Hoods have never been my favorite kind of toy. I simply love to see faces react to induced sensations, lick sweat of the neck of have my ears nibbled. But I also like to have my head played with while intricate things are done. That’s why I love the Asylum Muzzle so much (along with the Bishop Head Harness). A full hood with the same features would be awesome! Just the thought of having soft, rich smelling leather hug my skull while the top adjust the many roller buckles is giving me a boner!

The Only Rubber Catsuite I would Consider

Regulation Streak Side Panel Catsuit

This item is a shocker: Fetish GEAR on ToyTorture.com? A rubber cat suit for ToyTorture? Especially a neck entry one?!

Calm down! Let me explain. Yes, to be honest: Full coverage does not do much for me. For me the tension of natural skin meeting artificial rubber is a very strong kink! Thus black cat suits are just boring for me. Especially should entry ones with their smooth chest. But a guy needs options and should broaden his horizon. So I might give a rubber cat suit a try with this one.

Maybe accessorize with the rubber bulldog harness, biceps restraints for added texture, a nice pair of sneakers and Rubber@Easter LAB can come. Naturally I would choose a black suit with red panels and strips to really pop when I am lying in the dark in the wellness hammock.

Small and Evil – The Fetters Headtrap

Since I am a Blackstyle Medium, what should I choose with Regulation?

Fetters Headtrap

Why this toy is so great, I have already written in the Christmas gift tip. Why I need this toy is easy: My playroom only looks big. With the slopes of the roof it actually has a very small usable footprint. So I need toys and furniture to make the best out of the space.

And for the Headtrap I have already found the perfect spot to store it in between use – or to store my sub away. Sadly, I have not yet had a chance to play with this piece of bondage furniture personally. But from the looks of it, it can probably easily been turned into a spanking horse. Or for party situation, it would be a perfect parking sport for the designated piss gimp.

A Basket of Oxballs Toys

In the past year, Oxballs has released so many great toys I am dying to add to my collection. But  before we come to those:

Oxballs, release the Ergo Plug Monster – NOW! I volunteer as a production sample testee!

The Oxballs Pig-Hole Squeal – Big and Textured, just what I like

In all seriousness: The shape of the Ergo Plug always looked tempting but even in its largest size, it was too small for most ass pigs. The first time I have heard about a Monster size to be in development was in late July/ early August of 2020. Sadly, developing new molds for silicone toys is not as easy as one might think. So cognitively I can understand why it took so long. But anally I crave to get stuFFed with this toy, so I hope Oxballs releases it rather sooner than later. And in rather firmer than softer silicoen.

The Matching Airhole Plug – More Texture

Speaking of soft silicone: The Pig-Hole Squeal and Airhole Plug. The first in black, the latter in red. Perfect combination for a texture junkie like me! And would be a much needed addition to my collection of six Oxballs tunnel plugs. I have already cleared the space in my toy shelve for three new Oxballs anal toys so I am waiting.

If you have been following this website since its earlieast beginnings in the fall of 2012 you know how much love I have had for ball stretching toys. Especially from Oxballs! Stretchers, stackers, slings, splitters – you name it. I have it, I love them. Or rather loved them. Having lost my left testicle last summer and waiting for getting a prosthesis some time this summer, I don’t know if I will ever love these toys like I have before.

… and the matching Vibration Bullets

So these toys represent hope for me! Hope that my beloved lowhangers will look and at least in the hands of another man feel the same! Hope that with their weight the skin will extend again despite the big scar and make my junk as bulky again as it was yesteryear.

The Squeeze is one of my fav ball stratchers because it combines tug with stretch. Adding weights to it or vibration? Count me in!

Is it a ball stretcher? Is it a parachute? It is both!

But I might need some training until I can fit the Squeeze again and here the Tug comes in. I already loved Oxballs Slung though it was a bit cumbersome to put on. This looks better, more fun and screams for “Put me on while lying in a sling, connect me to a thread above the spread bar and let a weight dangle!” This is very specific for my playroom layout but since this is my personally wish list, I shamelessly force my fantasies on you!

 

So much for my dream gifts for what we in Germany call half-round birthday. Let’s see what I will be unwrapping Friday morning in six weeks.

Fetters Leather Arm Binder

The Fetters Arm Binder

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

The center piece of the Arm Binder is a restraint body made out of soft and deliciously smelling garment leather. While it gently wraps around the sub’s body, at 1mm thickness it is sturdy and strong! The restraint roughly has the shape of a sleeping bag’s bottom. The opening at the top is 42cm wide and tapers over the length of 69cm to 12cm at the bottom. This lavish amount of room allows the restraint to be used on all body types, from beefy muscle bulls to slender twinks.

To adjust the sizing and increase the level of bondage, there are two mechanisms. On top of the body there is a rivet reinforced lacing ladder which goes 2/3 down. It is underlaid with a sheet of leather so hair or skin folds do not get caught in the lacing. Onto the back three loops – one on top, on 1/3 and one 2/3 down – out of sturdy bridle leather are riveted. Through these loops belts with roller buckles are threaded. Again, the belts are long yet the holes are punched so far that they are long enough for bigger builds yet can be closed tightly for petit physiques.

The restraint body is fettered to the torso with a simple X-harness using roller buckles. One pair sits on each side of the lacing, another of the leather sack’s back. The roller buckles are held in place by riveted leather loops for a secure fit. The loops are made out of the same 30mm wide bridle leather belts as the harness and the tightening belts.

The Roller Buckle on the Stiff Version of the Bridle Leather Belts

And now we are coming to a part difficult part in this review: The bridle leather on the Arm Binder I am basing this review on is stiff and uncomfortable. Because of this I reached out to Regulation/ Fetters and they assured me that they switched the leather to a softer and thus more flexible variety earlier this year (I have gotten my Arm Binder in March 2021). To make my Arm Binder more usable, I actually commissioned new belts and the harness in the new, softer leather but due to Covid I have not yet gotten these.

Long story short: As you can read below, I like the Arm Binder a lot because they are a hot and kind of degrading toy. But especially for long term scenes, they are only fun when the softer leather is used! As soon as I have gotten the new belts and harness, I will annex this review. As always, if you want to be kept in the loop about such things, follow me on Twitter.

Lateral Belts for Extra Secure & Tight Bondage

Playing with the Leather Arm Binder

Putting the Arm Binders on is easy: The sub simple needs to put his arms behind his back and you pull the restraint body over them. To make it easier, the bottom should fold his hands. The bottom of the leather sack is quite tight yet it is spacious enough for larger hands. But if you want to tie the sub’s hands together, leather cuff restraints or special ones like the awesome Fetters Handlock take up too much space. So if you feel the need to tie them, I recommend soft Velcro quick restraints. But to be honest: Such additional restraints are purely for the mindfuck. Once the harness and the restraint body are connected, there is little chance for the sub to get his arms free.

For safe and long-term play, the harness should rest lightly against the torso and the restraint body should hang as loosely as the arms would. There should be a little wiggle room so the sub can move his shoulders before they become stiff and to ensure circulation. You can tighten the straps more, pulling the arms up. This is a form of stress bondage and should not be done over extended periods of time and monitored closely. The same rules apply to the belts. Tighten them loosely for lightly restraining the sub while increasing both the bondage feeling and inescapability. Tighten them more and you end up with intense stress bondage. Please keep in mind that through the leverage of the belt you can quickly wield strong force on the elbows and shoulders. Both are frailer joints so be careful and don’t overdo it force and time wise!

The Lacing for a Tight Fettering

So much for health and safety. Now on to the fun part. If you fetter the belts in a non-stress tightness, the Leather Arm Binder are great “mobile” restraints. You can put your sub in them for extended periods of time, render his arms useless while he can walk around and has his body more or less exposed for play.  This makes the arm binder the perfect bar/ club restraint. Unlike straitjackets which are equally comfortable over long periods of time but limit the access to the torso, the bottom in these can be easily be expose to chest and gut punching, TT or CBT. Naturally, it is a good piece of bondage gear for group scenes when a sub needs to be “parked”.

On my first look at the toy, I would have wished for D-rings on the side. But in play, I rarley missed them. In the cases where I had to secure my bottom laterally, I simply used carabiners or shackles on the tightening belts as anchor points. Yes, D-rings would be more refined and keep the restricting belts from movement. But they are not essential for enjoying this restraint. As I have written: The Arm Binder is a perfect toy for mobile play. If you want to secure a sub safely laterally on his arms I would recommend  Fetters’ Full Sleeve Bondage Mitts which have plenty of D-rings.

At the Bottom there is a D-Ring for multiple Nifty and Nasty Intricacies

The one D-ring at the bottom is a nifty one though. For a bit of CBT, it can be connected to a chastity cage or a ball stretcher. Since the arm movement is quite limited, the chances of an accident are low. My preferred bondage layout though was running a piece of rope or chain through it to for connecting two ankle restraints. This will properly limit his step range and keeps him from running away. If you want to humiliate him even more, use the D-ring as the anchor point for the leash instead of the collar, focusing the attention onto his groin.

Finally, if you sub needs fuck machine training, this is a good piece of bondage gear to keep the arms out of interferings way when the sub is on a bench. Even when bound in doggy position, the arms can be used to pull forward and escape the machine a bit. With the arms behind the back (preferably lightly suspended upwards) there is little wiggle room. And quite frankly, the image is very hot!

Conclusion: Effective body restraint from light to stress bondage.
Pros Cons Where to get Price
Comfortable and secure to wear even over extended periods of time Few lateral D-rings would be great Regulation £264.99
Bondage intensity finely adjustable
Hot looking bondage positions with good access to “pressure” points

Fetters Portable Bondage Board

The Fetters Portable Bondage Board

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

The product name of this piece of bondage equipment is pretty descriptive: It is a bondage board that can be folded in the middle.

First, let’s look at its bottom. Two wide and sturdy hinges keep both sides aligned with each other even during heavy play and fold together smoothly. In order not to damage the precious hardwood floor in Fidelio-passworded play mansions four thick rubber bumpers are stapled onto the cloth-lined bottom (if you are too young for this reference, watch “Eyes Wide Shut”). On each side of the top there is a powerful neodymium magnet keeping both sides securely together when folded. In order to carry the board around comfortably, a piece of nylon strap is mounted on the middle of each side. On one side a nice stainless steel Fetters badge is screwed between the two ends of the carrying loop. Folded together the board is 53.5cm tall, 60cm wide and about 10cm deep. Unfolded you naturally get a bondage surface of 60x107cm.

The D-rings Folded Up

The body of the board is made out of sturdy wood boards padded with thick firm yet comfortable foam. The play surface on the top is either lined with leather or a material called Rubluxe which is a rubberized fabric that is both oil- and waterproof. For fettering D-rings with an inner width of 39mm, inner height of 32mm and almost absurd wire strength of 6mm are used. They are mounted to the board putting each below a wide and thick piece of bridle leather which is hold in place with four screws. There are six D-rings on each side and one at each end. So in total there are a whopping 14 bondage points around the board.

Due to all this heavy duty materials and workmanship the board weighs 10kg.

The Footprint of the Folded Bondage Board

Playing with the Portable Bondage Board

Most subs I have introduced to this piece of bondage equipment where initially skeptical. Could such relatively compact piece of gear work as a secure basis for bondage? The torsional stiffness of the hinges, the thick and sturdy boards and massive D-rings which are massively mounted onto the board in combination with a tight fettering allow for little wiggle room. So despite being portable and relatively light, it is a good, secure piece of bondage furniture! These are good news especially for those who travel a lot or have to store away their play gear below a bed or in a wardrobe once the session is over. One of my testees bought his one especially for play parties and cons. He likes to play public but wants a piece of furniture of his own when the provided play furniture is occupied or when there is only little space, for example on the side lines of a mosh.

Most people will probably only use the Portable Bondage Board folded open. But even folded together and using only one side, it is a nifty piece of play furniture. Due to the smaller footprint, it easily fits in the corner of a room and thus works perfectly as a slave parking spot. Despite resting on padding, there is little rocking or movement so a sub can safely stand on it, his ankles and maybe even balls being tied to the D-rings. But the area of just half a board is even large enough for a sub to kneel down onto. This way you can of course tie the ankles, thighs and wrists to the boards for an even more intense bondage scenario.

The Fetters Badge and Left the Small yet Powerful Neodymium Magnet

Of course the board shines the most when lying down. It is long enough to cover the torso and the thighs of most subs (up to about 1.90m body height) so it covers most joints and limbs. There are countless different positions you can tie your sub to it: From lying and sitting over kneeling to standing, from comfortable long term bondage over painful stress positions. There are some easy to recreate examples on Regulation’s product page. But the Portable Bondage Board encourages you to be creative and push the limits of your sub’s flexibility. I even managed to tie two subs on the same board, kneeling either back to back or facing each other. If you then introduce a flexible double ended dildo or a pair of nipple clamps, you can create very interesting and intense play on a little space.

A Jimsupport Rim placed on the Bondage Board

For the actual bondage process, you can use different means. If you don’t want to add additional restraints, you can use rope or my beloved Velcro quick restraints. The D-rings are large enough to house several ropes at the same time. Their weldseam is below the leather flap so the ropes run smoothly through the D-rings. When using cuff style leather, rubber or neoprene restraints, the D-rings are wide enough to thread a restraint’s belt directly through the D-ring. While this limits the restraint’s and thus the sub’s movement the most, in case of an emergency you would have to cut the belt itself, destroying the restraint. Of course, human health and security always goes over gear preservation. So my recommended way of attaching restraints to the bondage board is using tension straps. Inexpensive to replace if cut yet almost as effective as directly connection restraint and board.

A question I get asked in almost every reader question is “Which lining material should I choose?” For my board, I chose leather and being made by Fetters it did not disappoint: It is soft yet feels strong, the grain is subtle but noticeable and the smell is intoxicatingly good. If you “just” want to fetter someone to the board, it is a good choice! But leather is a little bit higher maintenance, does not like wetness or messy stuff. So if your bottoms leak a lot of pre-cum or you want to get piggy go for Rubluxe. And to all those fellow pigs out there: The space between the D-rings is about the clearing between the legs of a Jim Support Adjustable Rim Chair, depending on the seat height. Simply fix the legs with tensions straps to the D-rings, maybe fix your bottom to the D-rings and pig out.

Speaking of Rubluxe: The bondage board is also a great fisting base when traveling. The lining is thick enough for a bottom to go both comfortably in doggy or lying on his back. The board itself is a stable base even on soft hotel mattresses. When lying on his back, the combination of ankle restraints and tension straps anchored on the D-rings next to his head can create a travel sling-like layout without putting draft on the bottom’s neck. But for this play, the Rubluxe surface is clearly the superior one for his kind of play. Of course you can put a pad below the fistees ass when using the leather version. But as always, lube finds its way around and as soon as the bottom starts to piss you are in for an intense cleaning session.

The Hinge

Speaking off piss, the rubber bumpers on the bottom give your 7mm ground clearance.  So a Rubluxe covered bondage board can also be used to detain a urinal bottom as long as there is no standing piss which could soak the board from the bottom.

Since the board must not fold when putting pressure on the seam in the middle, it folds inwards not outwards. This means that the padded surface is always on the outside, exposed to potential damages. To protect these sides, I highly recommend ordering the canvas carrying bag for £35 along with the board, especially when you are going to travel with your board!

Conclusion: Effective and versatile yet portable piece of bondage furniture.
Pros Cons Where to get Price
Many D-rings for creative bondage and intense bondage Storage bag is a must purchase when traveling with it Regulation £245
Really sturdy yet somewhat portable
Two options for lining depending on usage scenario and fetish

ToyTorture’s Stocking Stuffer II – Fetters Headtrap

Jesse bound in the Fetters Headtrap

Last year I have already recommended a piece of nimble and nifty bondage furniture for people who cannot or do not want to have a playroom or who travel to events often. This got so much positive feedback that today’s gift recommendation is just that. And again, the Headtrap comes from Fetters which seems to become a specialist for small footprint bondage furniture.

The Parts of the Fetters Headtrap

The Headtrap is basically a small cage without the bars on the side. There is only a piece to trap the head. The rest of the fettering is done attaching restraints to the anchor points, one in each corner. Since there are no bars, the limbs can be places outside of the frame. So with a footprint of just 45x50cm or 50×75.5cm – depending if you put the cage upside or longside – you have a effectively immobilized your sub. The Headtrap comes with a tickly padded plate so you can sit inside the bars. If you add the included locking wheels, you can even push him around. Perfect for a party setting or if you do a long-term scene and want to take your sub with you when you leave the room.

From the pictures it looks that to assemble you just need to tighten 8 screws which seems quick. On the product it says it collapses to five flat pieces so it should be easy to store and if you have a car somewhat easy to transport to your event hotel room (I have seen rim chair on hotel luggage carts at Folsom Europe so…).  Sadly there is no word on the weight. So I guess one of you will have to buy one and tell me 😉

The Fetters Headtrap costs £549 at Regulation in London.

Fetters Full Sleeve Bondage Mitts

The Fetters Full Sleeve Bondage Mitts

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

Like on all Fetters leather bondage items, the first thing that strikes you is the strong and rich smell of high quality leather. Second, you will notice that like all bondage mitts from Fetters they are sold in pairs (it pains me that I have to point that out when looking at the competition…). The main body of each restraint is a 640mm long mitt made out of soft leather. The circumference at the top is 400mm which is large enough for most subs though body builders might want to get a custom version.

Detail of the Top D-ring

For about 2/3 of the body’s back there is a lacing to fetter the mitts tightly to the arm. The lacing using nylon string is strong enough for a tight fit and restricts the arm movement. Yet it is not strong enough to completely keep the elbow from bending. What really keeps the restraints bound to the arm are two 25mm wide bridle leather belts with roller buckles, one going around the wrist, the other going around the biceps sitting 70mm below the top of the mitts. The top strap is not riveted onto the body but runs to a pair of D-rings sitting, one on each side of the lacing. There are two more pairs, each 120mm apart. The wrist belt is riveted onto the mitt. On top of the mitts another strap is riveted perpendicular onto the belt. With this strap and two pairs of rivets a D-ring is housed at the bottom of the mitts. A final D-ring can be found on the top, next to the lacing.

Detail of the Bottom D-ring

Playing with the Full Sleeve Bondage Mitts

Through the size and the area these mitts cover, I consider them “body bondage” items. Putting them on a sub takes a bit of work and time. But it is also part of the fun with these restraints. In the process is also a sense of drama in it, taking away more and more the ability of his arms to move and letting him feel the contrast between the soft touch and tightening of the leather – especially if the sub has a leather fetish. Just like with the Bishop Head Harness, “ritualistically” putting the mitts on sets the moods and helps getting into headspace.

Through the D-ring layout, these mitts can naturally work as a cuff restraints substitute in almost any situation. Most fun was had by my testees in spread eagle position or when having their arms tied upwards laying in the sling. In this position the degree of bondage can easily be increased by connecting the D-rings to the sling chains.

Detail of the Lacing and the lateral D-ring pairs

But the full sleeve mitts really start to shine when you connect the top D-rings to a (bulldog) harness and leave the bed (room) with your sub. With just loosening the lacing a bit, adding a strap to connect the bottom D-rings and interconnecting the lateral D-rings on both mitts, you have a veritable straitjacket sleeve substitute. For a stricter layout with less wiggle room, tie the arms to the side using a full body bondage harness. Then thread a belt through the bottom D-rings and fasten it around the thighs and the leather gimp can (somewhat) walk about without moving his arms. Personally I enjoyed most using the Full Sleeve Bondage Mitts in a bondage frame. The many attachments points inside the frame in combination with the many D-rings enabled me to fetter a sub securely enough to flog him.

Detail of the Roller Buckles

Since I like the esthetics and the helplessness, I tried turning the full sleeve mitts into arm binder by connecting the bottom D-rings with a shackle and the other D-rings with belts. The layout worked but a word of caution is necessary: Do not tighten the belts too tightly or too quickly. Unlike restraints for this specific purpose like the Fetters Leather Arm Binder you can easily get to a degree of tension that puts too much stress on the shoulders and elbows or restricts blood flow to the hands. So if you are a fan of “tighter is better”, I highly recommend adding specific arm binder restraints to your collection. A safer (and what turned out more fun) way is running a piece of rope through both bottom D-rings and a D-ring at the bottom of a parachute with spikes. This will limit the arm movement too – sooner or later.

Detail of the Lower Roller Buckle is connected to the Botto, D-ring

Another setup a top testee did but I would not recommend it connecting the top D-rings to a collar. The chances of the sub strangling himself or causing disc injuries are too high in my opinion.

Of course, through the many D-rings, these bondage mitts are an ideal addition to rope bondage. The simplest ways is tying the top D-rings into a torso harness or the bottom ones to the thighs. But an experienced rigger will surely find more creative ways to make use of all the D-rings like body harness or tying two subs together a rope-inexperienced person like me cannot imagine.

If the mitts with the lacing are not strict enough, I recommend buying two 40cm – 50cm (depending on the leeway you want to allow) spreader bars. Connect one end to the bottom D-ring, the other to the two D-ring holding the biceps strap in place to severely limit the arm movement.

Conclusion: Restrictive and versatile piece body bondage gear.
Pros Cons Where to get Price
Covers large body area for strong bondage and leather feeling Takes time to put on sub Regulation £275
…. but lacing alone only has limited restriction
14 D-ring in total
Connection bottom and top D-ring with a spread bar easily increases bondage degree massively …

ToyTorture’s Stocking Stuffer III – Fetters Portable Bondage Board

Fetters Portable Bondage Board equipped with Cuff Restraints

This year again, many kinksters will wish for their own playroom for Christmas. Having lived in dorms and with roommates, I am painfully aware that this wish often takes time to become true. So as the third Christmas gift recommendation I want to show you the Fetter Portable Bondage Board (which I have now reviewed in December 2021).

The board measures 107x612cm and features a total of 14 D-rings, 6 on the side and 2 on each end. So regardless if you are a rigger or using cuff style restraints with carabineers like me, it offers opportunities for many different bondage positions. Since it is thickly padded it is comfortable to kneel or lay in it for extended periods of time. As a cover material, you can choose between leather or a water- and oil-proof material. While looking at all the great leather gear I own from Fetters, the leather quality will be top notch, soft and smelling awesome, I would recommend the Rubluxe. From this material sweat can be easily wiped off and the bondage board can double as an underpacking for fisting – regardless if you prefer Crisco or excess Jlube.

The Rubluxe cover makes the foldable Bondage Board Waterproof

So far, it is also a good piece of bondage furniture for people with a playroom. But: The board can be folded in the middle! Then it only measures 53x61cm and at 10cm height, it can be easily stores away under a bed or in a wardrobe (IKEA Pax are 70cm deep ;)). At 10kg, it is a bit on the heavier side to travel with. But especially if you travel by car, I am certain you will get your effort’s worth at events like Folsom Europe.

Regardless of the cover material, the Fetters Portable Bondage Board costs £245 at Regulation in London.

Fetters Strap Face Cage

The Mr S Leather Fetters Strape Face Cage

Fetters Strap Face Cage

Vendor: Mr S Leather

Design

This piece of bondage gear is bit hard to describe. After a scene where I put it on an art major I once called it a “deconstructed hood” which has best approximation I could come up with yet. It is a system of over a dozen straps riveted together and attached to a collar to envelope the entire head. The straps around the head are made out of soft bridle leather to tightly follow the shape of the head. While the edges are burnished so there is no chafing, the straps’ bottom has not been treated! So especially with sweaty subs expect a lot of black lint on their head for the first few scenes. The folded garment leather straps as on the Bishop Head Harness would have been better. There are three vertical and two horizontal roller buckles on both sides. The have a large range of adjustability for a snug fit on almost every head size. The collar is made out of folded garment leather with a bridle leather strap on the outside. It is closed with a locking roller buckle.

The Blindfold and the Mouthcover with branded Mr S Snap Buttons

Around the eyes and the mouth the rivets have been replaced by snap buttons. The eyes can be covered with a blindfold made out of thicker bridle leather than the straps on the outside and soft garment leather with padding over the eyes on the inside. While the padding is good to even out the “high difference” of the different straps, it puts some pressure on the eyes and still lets some light in. The pressure situation gets better over time as the blindfold gets broken in more and more. But if you really want to isolate the sub visually, my advice – as always – is to blindfold your sub with a Mr S Ultra Blindfold before you strap the Face Cage around him. But since its padding is softer and the blindfold larger, even put over the cage’s straps the block-out will be more efficient. The mouth can be covered with a simple rectangle piece of bridle leather outside/ garment leather inside or apparently shut with a similar piece of leather featuring tongue suppressor. I learned about that option when I pulled up the product’s webpage to link at the end of the review. When I got this toy in September 2019, my Strap Face Cage did not come with it. So I am not sure if between then and now they added the option or if they forgot to add it to my order. Naturally, I cannot judge the play value of the tongue gag so please excuse this gap.

Detail of the collar’s D-ring

Another play feature are D-rings in the front of the collar and at the crown. As always with Mr S Leather they are sturdily secured under a piece of leather and riveted in place. They can take a beating and considerable force despite with a width of 23mm and a wire strength of 4,5mm being relatively small. The size is due to the straps’ width so they do not look out of proportion. Personally, I would have preferred them more “butch” but since they still do their duty excellently, there is no real reason to complain.

Playing with the Fetters Strap Face Cage

In the last review I also took a piece of bondage gear for people who easily overheat. This piece of head gear has the same properties. The straps are far enough apart for good ventilation and allow for enough sweat evaporation to cool the head in most situations.

Detail of the Roller Buckles to Adjust the Strap Cage

This makes the Strap Face Cage a good toy for outdoor scenes or events like Folsom Street fair. The head is especially prone to heat stroke so wearing a closed, especially black hood over the head can quickly lead to heat build-up – with fetal results. This limitation might disappoint some full coverage enthusiasts, but testees and play partners found some good fetish quality in the design. It has an archaic, Mad Max vibe. Exposing the sub while constraining him in a cage has great humiliation potential. Despite not covering all of the head it is a toy for a true leather fetishist. The soft leather straps hug the skins firmly yet smoothly and they smell like every piece of leather gear from Mr S leather.

Of course, this toy also offers great play capabilities. The D-rings placement is very thought-out. While the one at the front of the collar is pretty standard and naturally ideal for attaching a leash. The one at the crown makes the Strap Face Cage a good toy for tying the head down. If you make this anchor point the strictest on the head, there is almost no chance of the sub strangling himself. Since this hood does not restrict breathing, it is a great piece of gear to wear while sleeping. The soft leather in combination with the small and slim buckles on the side minimize the pressure for an actually mostly comfortable sleep. On the other hand of the softness spectrum, the rivets on the inside of the Strap Cage will intensify each blow dealt to the face! It actually made an experienced, masochist sub cry when his top gave him a backpfeiffe (it is a German regionalism you have to goolge).

The Strap Face Cage without the Blindfold and Mouth Cover

As most regular readers will know I am a sucker for sensation play. And this toy offered me a new perspective on this form of play. Usually sensation play is all about continuous stimulation. This twilight zone of stimulation and leather pressing into my skin drove me and my subs insane. We wanted to touch, the lick, the gentle blow of air to go on forever. But the was a strap in the way! Would the stimulation continue behind the strap or stop? This suspense, this play of tease and denial frustrated one sub so much that he safeworded. Of course, this only work with subs who have very sensitive skin and are highly receptacle for sensation play. For others, the space between the straps is too small to trigger the response to the induced sensations.

Conclusion: Combination of the bondage sensation of a straitjacket with great play access.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Unique design Leather straps leave lint on the head Mr S (Manufacturer) $289.95
Adjustable for a large range of head sizes
Two D-rings Blindfold could be softer
Presenting and possibly humiliating your sub without the fear of heat stroke

ToyTorture’s Stocking Stuffer II – House of Bascanio Muzzles

Comparison of the Four Different Muzzle Types

There are few individual toys I get so many reader questions about than the House of Bascanio Muzzles. Not a week passes by without a question in my inbox about their quality and play properties and which one I would recommend for a specific scene. Sadly I could not get my hands on one or two of them. But since I have heard good things about them I at least want to give them an honorary mention in the Christmas gift tips this year.

The Back of a House of Bascanio M5 Muzzle with Attached Bulldog Harness

House of Bascanio currently has the broadest range of muzzles for males with 7 varieties in production. Their muzzles itself did not reinvent the wheel. They all follow the basic design that Sinvention popularised over two decades ago. But the House of Bascanio takes the design to the next level. On the higher range models all their straps are made out of garment leather so they hug the skull tighter for less wiggle room and stronger bondage. They also offer a greater scope and ranger of size customization for a better fit. The more elaborate models feature padding all over the muzzle for more comfort when lying down, a thicker and wider collar (the M2 and M3 even has a design come close to a posture collar for stricter bondage) or locking pins for securing the muzzle. Depending on the model, there are considerably more D-rings which as you know if you have been reading my blog for some time is always better. Speaking if anchor points: Some models can be ordered with a bulldog harness connected to them for more security and a uniform look.

The range of the House of Bascanio muzzles starts at CAD209 and goes up to CAD899 for the top of the line model connected to a padded chest harness.

ToyTorture’s Stocking Stuffer I – Cuffed Classic Rubber Restraints

The Cuffed Classic Restraints Color Range

It has become a time-honored tradition that during the period we call Advent in Germany which means the four Sundays before Christmas I write about some toys that I would love to review but not yet had a chance to add to my playroom.

Two weeks ago I reviewed the Rubstraints from Cuffed and to put is mildly that review apparently stroke a chord. With the Segufix lock and all black or authentic medical restraint color scheme they mean business.

The Cuffed Classic Restraints Full Set

But rubber has always had the appeal of leathers cheekier, more lighthearted and more colorful brother and Cuffed caters to that with their Classic line. With a small locking pin instead of a Segufix lock and D-rings instead of gates they look more like classic cuff restraints – just like their name implies. But the greatest feat: They come in color! The piping around the edge and the body comes in blue, gree, yellow, orange, red and white so you’ve almost got a rainbow. This color range should cover the major (accent) colors used in rubber gear if you want to accessorize your outfit or are pedantic about matching colors when tied down. The Classic Restraints come for neck, biceps, wrist, thigh and ankle. So if you are VERY color-brave, you can use them to signal at least four different hanky codes. And if you ask nicely, I am sure Cuffed will be able to make you restraints also in teal, fuchsia, beige or whatever else floats your boat.

The range starts at 89€ for a puppy collar and ends at 199€ for thigh restraints. If you are interested in the entire set, they sell that for 675€ though then you have to write an e-mail for your color mix and match hanky set 😉