Fetters Scrotum Strap & Weight Anchor Strap

The Fetters Scrotum Strap & Weight Anchor Strap

Vendor: Regulation

Sometimes a review takes strange ways until it gets published here. Last week I have gotten a message asking for my opinion in these two toys. Having been using them for years, I wanted to send him the link to the corresponding review. But it turns out: Despite having been using them for years, I have never reviewed them! Let’s fix that!

Both Straps Unrolled

Construction

The design of the Scrotum Strap is quite simple: It is a 355mm long strap of belt leather. The lower 130mm length is 30mm wide, forming the body which then tapers to 220mm long and 15mm wide belt. Through the belt 7 holes with a 15mm center-to-center spacing are punched of which only 5 are usable. Onto the body a locking post and two 13mm wide d-rings under a slap of leather are riveted. Between the locking post and the first d-ring is a slot to thread the belt through. The Scrotum Strap comes with a pad lock.

The Sharp, Undeburred Edge of the Scrotum Strap

The basic design is also reflected in the material and manufacturing: The belt leather is stiff and neither burnished nor deburred. This means the edges are sharp until the leather is well worn in which will take quite a while. Since I rarely use the Scrotum Strap due to having several other toys to choose from, mine is still stiff and a bit sharp. If you want to speed up the breaking in-process, rub a little bit of neatsfoot oil on it and knead the toy while watching TV.

The Weight Anchor Strap borrows the basic design idea of the Scrotum Strap but develops it further. The body of the toy is made out of two layers of soft garment leather. The height depends on which version you get: The one buckle which I have has a 33mm tall body, the two buckle a 56mm tall one. On each side of the body a 180mm long and 14mm wide strap of belt leather is riveted. At the bottom a Ø19mm welded o-ring is riveted.

The Overlapping Body Protects Ball Skin from Getting Caught by the Belt

It is closed around the balls about the same way as the Scrotum Strap. On top of one strap a 240mm long and 14mm wide belt is riveted perpendicularly, while on top of the other a small roller buckle is. The belt goes through a slot inside the body and thus grips around the cuff wrapping around the sack’s neck.

Just like on the previous toy, the manufacturing is a bit basic: The perpendicular edges of the body is just bare cut-off leather without any treatment, the slot is not whipped. Since both toys are basic CBT toys you can overlook these shortcoming but considering the price compared to a set of cuff-style restraints I would have expected more.

Playing with the Scrotum Strap & Weight Anchor Strap

The Padlock to Close the Scrotum Strap

As simple as the design is, it is ingenious: You wrap the body around the sack’s neck, thread the belt end through the slot and tighten it until you reach a snug yet comfortable fit. Then you thread the belt through the d-rings and close the toy by locking it onto the sub.

As long as the leather is not broken in, the adjustment process is cumbersome: Due to the stiffness it takes some adjustment to get it around the balls tightly. Threading it through the d-rings is a nightmare because of the friction. For me, this created a bit of a vicious cycle because I had easier to use toys which I then preferred and thus never broke the Scrotum Strap in.

This is a shame because it is a nifty little toy with much potential. The smallest diameter of it is 24mm, the largest 42mm so it covers a wide range of possible scrotums. As written above due to the position of the locking pin and one of the d-rings you cannot tighten it further than the third to last hole. A friend of mine has been using his Scrotum Strap for half a decade on a regular basis. It is broken in and thus soft. He uses it with some of his slave as a reminder of belonging by simply locking it around the balls for a day or so. Unlike a chastity cage, the Scrotum Strap will not impair any everyday activity but once locked cannot be taken off. So it is a nice, psychological reminder that someone else has control over you when a locked collar, wrist or ankle chain are not an option. If you are a bit of a sadist, locking the Scrotum Strap around your sub’s balls can speed up the breaking in process. The warmth and moisture of the junk in combination with the movement will soften the leather up over time. Until then, it will be uncomfortably to wear and create some abrasions and burns.

A Shackle can be Used to Increase the Capacity of the D-Ring

For more action oriented play, the Scrotum Strap is a secure and tight anchor point on the balls. So in a full body lockdown it can be used to tie even the balls in place. In more mobile settings, I like to connect the ankle restraints to it to restrict the sub’s movement. Of course this also works with wrist restraints but my favorite is connecting the Scrotum Strap with a Handlock for minimal slack wrist-to-ball restraints.

If you want to connect the Scrotum Strap with another restraint bear in mind since the belt is threaded through the d-rings the space between the apex and the belt is only 5mm! While this might be enough for a padlock, if you want to use carabiners use them together with shackles. Another alternative are folded nylon tension straps.

The O-Ring at the Bottom of the Anchor Staps

The Weight Anchor Strap attaches to the body the same ways as the previous toy: Thread the belt through the slot and around the body to the roller buckle. Since there is not friction and the ball cuff’s body is made out of soft leather that easily wraps around the scrotum, this is quite easy. On this toy you can use all the punched holes creating a internal diameter between 27mm and 42mm. If your sub has smaller or less meaty balls, you can punch additional holes to tighten the restraint even further. For meatier balls, you have to just give it a try since the body is very soft and only stiff in the middle where the belt runs around, I managed to put the toys even on bull balls.

The softness in combination with the wide range of adjustability enables a really secure fit that is comfortable over extended periods of time even the tug on the toy is big. As the name of the toy suggests, it is made for weights. Most people use parachutes for this kind of play but they are only good for so much pulling force. If you add a momentum by letting the weight swing, the snap fastener either pops open or a ball slips through the thin ring the parachute creates. This does not happen with the Weight Anchor Strap. Since it comfortably yet securely compresses the ball’s neck, it stays in plays up to weight amounts way beyond which is medically advisable (the maximum amount of weights I have suspended from a sub’s scrotum using this toy were 10+kg. Don’t try this at home!). If you want to use climbing carabiners instead of threading rope or tension straps through the o-ring, you will have create a larger opening using shackles like with the above reviewed toy.

The Anchor Straps‘ Roller Buckle

The straps are riveted to slightly to the body that they don’t move. But they are long enough to allow for a pendulum movement. The movement stops quicker than on more freely hanging chains but the stiffness also transfers more of the kinetic energy onto the balls for an intense tug.

Of course you can also incorporate the Anchor Straps into bondage layouts by connecting them to restraints. But I found that the straps and the o-ring create more slack than the Scrotum Strap. But this is a very minor point of a toy hoarder. If you just have this one, it will perfectly work for tying down the balls or limit the subs movement by connecting either or both ankle and wrist restraints with this ball cuff.

Conclusion: Secure ball cuffs for heavy play
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Secure fit even during hard play Stiff leather which takes long to break-in Regulation £24 (Scrotum Strap)

£30 (one buckle)
£35 (two buckle)

Adjustable to wide range of ball sized Adjusting is a bit cumbersome
Once broken in comfortable to wear over extended periods of time Basic build quality

Fetters Leather Arm Binder

The Fetters Arm Binder

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

The center piece of the Arm Binder is a restraint body made out of soft and deliciously smelling garment leather. While it gently wraps around the sub’s body, at 1mm thickness it is sturdy and strong! The restraint roughly has the shape of a sleeping bag’s bottom. The opening at the top is 42cm wide and tapers over the length of 69cm to 12cm at the bottom. This lavish amount of room allows the restraint to be used on all body types, from beefy muscle bulls to slender twinks.

To adjust the sizing and increase the level of bondage, there are two mechanisms. On top of the body there is a rivet reinforced lacing ladder which goes 2/3 down. It is underlaid with a sheet of leather so hair or skin folds do not get caught in the lacing. Onto the back three loops – one on top, on 1/3 and one 2/3 down – out of sturdy bridle leather are riveted. Through these loops belts with roller buckles are threaded. Again, the belts are long yet the holes are punched so far that they are long enough for bigger builds yet can be closed tightly for petit physiques.

The restraint body is fettered to the torso with a simple X-harness using roller buckles. One pair sits on each side of the lacing, another of the leather sack’s back. The roller buckles are held in place by riveted leather loops for a secure fit. The loops are made out of the same 30mm wide bridle leather belts as the harness and the tightening belts.

The Roller Buckle on the Stiff Version of the Bridle Leather Belts

And now we are coming to a part difficult part in this review: The bridle leather on the Arm Binder I am basing this review on is stiff and uncomfortable. Because of this I reached out to Regulation/ Fetters and they assured me that they switched the leather to a softer and thus more flexible variety earlier this year (I have gotten my Arm Binder in March 2021). To make my Arm Binder more usable, I actually commissioned new belts and the harness in the new, softer leather but due to Covid I have not yet gotten these.

Long story short: As you can read below, I like the Arm Binder a lot because they are a hot and kind of degrading toy. But especially for long term scenes, they are only fun when the softer leather is used! As soon as I have gotten the new belts and harness, I will annex this review. As always, if you want to be kept in the loop about such things, follow me on Twitter.

Lateral Belts for Extra Secure & Tight Bondage

Playing with the Leather Arm Binder

Putting the Arm Binders on is easy: The sub simple needs to put his arms behind his back and you pull the restraint body over them. To make it easier, the bottom should fold his hands. The bottom of the leather sack is quite tight yet it is spacious enough for larger hands. But if you want to tie the sub’s hands together, leather cuff restraints or special ones like the awesome Fetters Handlock take up too much space. So if you feel the need to tie them, I recommend soft Velcro quick restraints. But to be honest: Such additional restraints are purely for the mindfuck. Once the harness and the restraint body are connected, there is little chance for the sub to get his arms free.

For safe and long-term play, the harness should rest lightly against the torso and the restraint body should hang as loosely as the arms would. There should be a little wiggle room so the sub can move his shoulders before they become stiff and to ensure circulation. You can tighten the straps more, pulling the arms up. This is a form of stress bondage and should not be done over extended periods of time and monitored closely. The same rules apply to the belts. Tighten them loosely for lightly restraining the sub while increasing both the bondage feeling and inescapability. Tighten them more and you end up with intense stress bondage. Please keep in mind that through the leverage of the belt you can quickly wield strong force on the elbows and shoulders. Both are frailer joints so be careful and don’t overdo it force and time wise!

The Lacing for a Tight Fettering

So much for health and safety. Now on to the fun part. If you fetter the belts in a non-stress tightness, the Leather Arm Binder are great “mobile” restraints. You can put your sub in them for extended periods of time, render his arms useless while he can walk around and has his body more or less exposed for play.  This makes the arm binder the perfect bar/ club restraint. Unlike straitjackets which are equally comfortable over long periods of time but limit the access to the torso, the bottom in these can be easily be expose to chest and gut punching, TT or CBT. Naturally, it is a good piece of bondage gear for group scenes when a sub needs to be “parked”.

On my first look at the toy, I would have wished for D-rings on the side. But in play, I rarley missed them. In the cases where I had to secure my bottom laterally, I simply used carabiners or shackles on the tightening belts as anchor points. Yes, D-rings would be more refined and keep the restricting belts from movement. But they are not essential for enjoying this restraint. As I have written: The Arm Binder is a perfect toy for mobile play. If you want to secure a sub safely laterally on his arms I would recommend  Fetters’ Full Sleeve Bondage Mitts which have plenty of D-rings.

At the Bottom there is a D-Ring for multiple Nifty and Nasty Intricacies

The one D-ring at the bottom is a nifty one though. For a bit of CBT, it can be connected to a chastity cage or a ball stretcher. Since the arm movement is quite limited, the chances of an accident are low. My preferred bondage layout though was running a piece of rope or chain through it to for connecting two ankle restraints. This will properly limit his step range and keeps him from running away. If you want to humiliate him even more, use the D-ring as the anchor point for the leash instead of the collar, focusing the attention onto his groin.

Finally, if you sub needs fuck machine training, this is a good piece of bondage gear to keep the arms out of interferings way when the sub is on a bench. Even when bound in doggy position, the arms can be used to pull forward and escape the machine a bit. With the arms behind the back (preferably lightly suspended upwards) there is little wiggle room. And quite frankly, the image is very hot!

Conclusion: Effective body restraint from light to stress bondage.
Pros Cons Where to get Price
Comfortable and secure to wear even over extended periods of time Few lateral D-rings would be great Regulation £264.99
Bondage intensity finely adjustable
Hot looking bondage positions with good access to “pressure” points

Suspension Hand Slings

The Mr S Suspension Hand Slings

Vendor: Mr S Leather

Construction

The body of this restraint pair is a curvated piece of bridle leather straps.  The bottom is slightly convex to follow the autonomy of the hand’s bottom; the top is protracted. While the body is made out of sturdy leather, it is padded and lined with soft garment leather. Unlike on their cuff-style restraints or the Four Buckle Hand Restraint (more on that later), the padding is rather stiff. This supports the wrist and keeps is upright yet makes the restraints comfortable to wear. For perfect and tight fit on the wrist, the restraint is tightly closed using Velcro and then secured with a roller buckle belt. Next to the buckle is a welded D-ring.

The top of the protracted tip is folded and secured with two rivets to house a tooled aluminum bar. On both end of the bar, panic carabiners with big, welded O-rings on the end connect the bar to another strap of bridle leather. This is threaded through the two O-rings. Between two rivets which hold the strap together sits another panic carabiner.

The Roller Buckle and D-ring on the back

Like all panic (or security as they are also called) carabiners they can turn to adjust a bit to the sub’s movement. There are no sharp edges to prevent damage on ropes. The release for the opening is tooled and textured for best grip even in stress situations.

Playing with the Suspension Hand Slings

When I have gotten these restraints this summer, they marked the end of era for me: For almost 10 years I have been using the Four Buckle Hand Restraints from Mr S for any kind of bondage and fettering. They were actually part of my first ever order from Mr S. But, when fettering someone on a standing position like on a St Andrews Cross, the Four Buckle Hand Restraints were not the best choice. The D-ring positioning was not perfect if you needed to hold onto something and panic carabiners were always a given in case the bottom collapsed (which luckily has never happened to me yet but happens more often than you probably think).

Connection of the Panic Carabiners with the Aluminum Bar

The Suspension Hand Slings fix all that! It is rare that a piece of (specialized) bondage gear instantly becomes part of my standard (or in this case flogging) play bag but the Suspension Hand Slings did just that. They were designed for the anchor point being above the restraint so there is no stressful horizontal pull on the wrists like when the D-ring is parallel to the arm. The layout and material choice is the perfect sweet spot between rigidity and stiffness for wrist support but not cutting of circulation and allowing enough leeway for the fingers and hand to move bit. Even when broken and getting softer in, they retain enough stiffness.

Stressful situations like being subjected to pain or being suspended can lead to circulation problems even on fit subs. Because of this, when doing suspension or just having a subs fettered standing, you should always use panic carabiners yet I rarely see them in public play spaces. Luckily, in these restraints they are built in. They look and feel like professional sailing equipment though sadly there is no kN value printed or engraved on them. In order to release them, twist the capsule 180° and even under pull they will open. The capsule is kept in place with a coil spring which is just strong enough to keep it in place but prevents the capsule from turning. Because twisting the capsule is such a satisfying feeling (yeah, I know that sometimes I am weird), I often just play around with the capsule. I have not counted how often I turned it but I have not noticed the spring getting any softer or the capsule developing any give.

The Velcro Fastener next the Padded and Garment Leather Lined Inside of the Restraint

Speaking of carabiners: Despite the rigid fettering, due to the twisting carabiners, there is a bit movement possible for the sub to work out sensations. This is important because swift, uncontrolled movements caused by pain could otherwise lead to injuries when the wrist is constrained by the cuff. Especially when whipping someone, I have subs doing pull-ups in these restraints because the bars provide such good support. So when doing extreme pain play I highly recommend also to put the ankles in bondage.

While this toy is called Suspension Hand Sling a word of caution is in order: Suspending someone solely vertically from their wrist, puts extreme stress on the joints, especially the wrists and the shoulders. There are some very well trained subs with extreme upper body muscles who can endure this stress position for a limited time. But neither your sub not you should over-estimate what he can do. So when doing suspension, check-in more often as usual.

The Panic Carabiners

I have also gotten a few reader questions about horizontal suspension with these restraints. In theory it works when the bottom is lying on his back. But you have to thread a tension strap or rope through the D-ring on the body to the major pull of the arm weight is caught there. But still what little pull is left, will make the tip bend upwards causing stress on the wrists. So for horizontal suspension I recommend the Four Buckle restraints.

If in a scene the need for another wrist restraint arises and you have these restraints in your play bag you can detach the part with the carabiners from the bar completely and use what is left as a standard restraint cuff. But since the restraint cannot be turned on the wrist, the D-ring always stays on the bottom of the hand which is a bit unpractical.

Conclusion: Best and most secure restraint for fettering hands above the hand.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Secure and save to use even in extreme bondage situations One trick pony Mr S Leather $239.95
Professional panic carabiners
Extremely well made and thought out

Spiked Parachute

The Spiked Parachute from Regulation

Vendor: Regulation

Sometimes weird things happen at ToyTorture.com: Following last week’s review of the Tenderizer Paddle, I have gotten a message asking if I have played with the Spiked Parachute from Regulation. Since this toy has been in my toy chest for it feels like forever, I went to my website to copy the review link for my reply. But it turns out: I actually have not yet reviewed this toy! It also turns out that I have some CBT gear from Regulation that I have not reviewed yet, a mistake I will soon correct!

Construction

This toy starts out as a standard parachute design. The double layer leather body is 5cm wide and is close by two snap buttons. There are two sets of male buttons so you can choose between either 2.5cm or 3cm diameter for size of the hole which goes around the neck of your balls. Through rivets three chains are attached to the body which come together in a ring that is large enough to house most tool carabiners. As the name says 24 sets of 5 spikes on the inside set this parachute apart from the tamer versions.

Detail of the Snap Button Closer

Playing with the Spiked Parachute

I have to be honest when I first unpacked this toy I was skeptical: The leather was a bit stiff and the ring to which the chains connect was not welded. But my worries were unfounded: Despite hanging a LOT of weight onto the ring it didn’t open up. This was also a good test for the snap buttons that even under large physical stress of a wiggling bottom or large amounts of weight swinging on them didn’t give in. And after some leather conditioner and warmth the leather of the body softened.

The Anchor Ringer of the Spiked Parachute

This toy works like every other parachute but just with a little interesting twist. Unlike normal parachutes this one works without attaching something onto it. Just put it around the subs balls and let him walk. The movement and friction around the parachute created by the moving legs is enough to cause the spikes to make an impression. Depending on the duration and the amount of movement this can be anything between annoying to agonizing. When you use this toy like a normal parachute a bit of caution is advisable. While the spikes should not break the skin they intensify any draft induced sensation. Usually subs enjoy the moving momentum of weights swinging from their balls but with this toy the added sting can become excruciating after some time. This effect is even more interesting when you tie the parachute just tight enough to a spread bar that the chains are taut. As soon as he starts to move the spikes will dig into his scrotum so he has to calm himself despite the pain in order to make it go away. This is especially fun when you tie the parachute to nipple clamps that will stick to the nipple even when wiggling a lot. The loop of induced sensation is phenomenal.

The Two Rows of Piercing Spikes

I had the most fun with this in a CBT competition with two subs: They had to choose a parachute by just looking at the top. One got a normal one, the other this spiked one and taking turns they had to endure the same strength of stimulation like amount of weight, weights dropping from a certain high until someone safeworded who then received a punishment that the other one determined in advance believe it was for himself (I know I can be evil at time).

Conslusion: Innocent looking toy with an evil twist.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Spikes enable wide range of sensations from annoying to agonizing Leather is a bit stiff at first Regulation £32.99
Strong enough to deal with relatively large amount of physical force

Fetters Heavy Leather Flogger

The Fetters Heavy Leather Flogger

Vendor: Regulation

Very often I get asked “Where can I get a good, quality flogger, best in Europe?” That is actually a tough question because unlike the USA Europe never developed a big BDSM flogger maker scene. Most of my floggers are made by a flogger maker in New York I have got to know when I studied in the USA. They cost at least four times of this Heavy Leather Flogger and take months to make, an invest most people are not willing to make. So I am quite excited to take a look at a traditionally made flogger that is easily accessible to guys from Europe.

Construction

This flogger is a beautiful example of traditional flogger making: Braided leather knot on the top and bottom knot. Between them a black and red herringbone pattern made out of leather straps covers the 17cm long grip, giving the handle an overall length of 23,5cm. For better storing and not losing the flogger while throwing it, a 14.5cm long braided leather loop is attached to the bottom knot. What surprised me that Fetters uses relatively stiff and sturdy leather for the braiding which usually makes getting it tight and firm difficult. But I was impressed how tight it was which is a good indicator for durability and quality. The flogger is quite well balanced. The mass center is at the bottom of the upper knot which is low enough to keep the wrist from tiring out quickly.

Detail of the Angle Cut Tail End

Into the top knot 25 tails are woven. They are made out of rather stiff black cow hide and have an angle cut at the end. At 55cm overall length they are 4.5cm longer than the “standard” flogger length of 20’’ resp. 50.5cm but this only is important when you are Florentine flogging with a 20’’ in tail flogger. In the knot a 4x2cm leather patch with an embossed Fetters logo is woven. I am not sure about this move because when you tails “break” over this patch, it impacts how they fly. Especially experienced tops will soon learn how hold their flogger to not have this happening or how to compensate. Still, I would have preferred this patch elsewhere.

All things considered, I have not yet found this level of craftsmanship and attention to detail for this price. So from a pure manufacturing side, this flogger offers incredible value for money.

Playing with the Fetters Heavy Leather Flogger

Detail of the Knot with the Fetters Logo Patch

From a technical point of view, this flogger is good for novice tops getting into flogging. The tails fly well which makes the aim easy. The mass center at the top knot allows the tails to gain momentum when wielding in laying-8-shaped circles so once you have established a pattern, the flogger guides the throwing arm.

But from a pain perspective this one is not for the faint of heart. Fetters chose a stiffer variety of cow hide, yet not as stiff (and thus severe) at Latigo leather. Unlike Latigo this cow hide is flexible and flows and flies really nicely yet it is far from soft. Adding that to the medium weight of the leather it leans a bit towards sting. Additionally the edges are a bit firm and the rough side of the leather is relatively coarse for a flogger. And finally, the tips are angle cut so when they hit, they have an extra bit. Furthermore, angle cut will give you the most acceleration and thus most strong impact sensation.

Detail of the Bottom Knot and Loop

This doesn’t make the flogger bad! It is awesome toy for masochists, a mid- to end-scene toy when the endorphins are flowing and a skilled top will be able to get some thud out of it. But for people starting out with flogging or not hard-core masochists, I strongly advice to use a different, softer flogger for warm up, like the Bare Leatherworks Buffalo one.

Despite the overall roughness of tails, I was surprised how relatively little they color. Of course the impact area will turn red quickly but being medium-weight bruises even on delicate areas like the ass and thigh are unlikely. Despite the sharp tail edges and angle cut tips I was actually surprise how little scratches and welts this flogger produced. So if you are looking for a meanish impact toy that leave relatively little marks after a scene, it is a good one to go with.

Finally a little word on availability: Since this product is handmade, it is rarely available in large quantities. This flogger has been on my watch list for over 2 years and it has been sold out most of the time. So if you are interested in this flogger, I highly recommend setting an e-mail alert to get notified when it is back in stock!

Conclusion: Extremely competitively priced, well made and handling flogger to deliver a stingy sensation.
Pros Cons Where to get Price
All tails fly together for a good ain Unlike advertised on the stingier and heavier end of the pain spectrum Regulation £58.99
Well balanced
All tails have same length and overall well made
Not good for warm-up

ToyTorture’s Stocking Stuffer IV – Mr S Leather Savage Hoods

The Mr S Leather Savage Hood

It is amazing how quickly this year’s Advent season flew buy and I am already penning the last ToyTorture’s Stocking Stuffer for this year. And I did safe one of the best for last.

Somehow through my gear purchases and preferences this heavy bondage special had the character of “heavy bondage meets skin access”. While overheating is a real problem it creates is a goal conflict with full coverage. So a common to last week’s review way “Great piece of gear but I wish it would cover more skin.” Luckily there is a compromise and it comes from Mr S: Their Savage hood range.

They are made out of Mr S’ soft and rich smelling leather (leather Bag hood smellgasm anyone?) and closed by lacing so they wrap tightly around the head! The leather is completely perforated so air and a bit of light can pass through the material. I briefly had the chance to try one of these on BLF Easter 2019 and the perforation allows for some ventilation and transpiration. Of cause not as much as the Strap Face Cage or a muzzle would. And wearing it in the bright sun is still an issue. But it is a massive improvement over a bag hood for example.

The Savage Sucks Hood

Furthermore, especially the Savage hood is the piece of bondage/ leather gear that will bring you closest to the smooth, full coverage gimp look only achievable by rubber. There are no nose holes or other cutouts that disturbs the plain leather look. This makes this hood great for dehumanizing subs. Or for anonymous tongue worshipping play with the Savage Sucks.

The plain Savage hood costs $229.95 at Mr S Leather, the Savage Sucks version costs $249.95.

Fetters Full Sleeve Bondage Mitts

The Fetters Full Sleeve Bondage Mitts

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

Like on all Fetters leather bondage items, the first thing that strikes you is the strong and rich smell of high quality leather. Second, you will notice that like all bondage mitts from Fetters they are sold in pairs (it pains me that I have to point that out when looking at the competition…). The main body of each restraint is a 640mm long mitt made out of soft leather. The circumference at the top is 400mm which is large enough for most subs though body builders might want to get a custom version.

Detail of the Top D-ring

For about 2/3 of the body’s back there is a lacing to fetter the mitts tightly to the arm. The lacing using nylon string is strong enough for a tight fit and restricts the arm movement. Yet it is not strong enough to completely keep the elbow from bending. What really keeps the restraints bound to the arm are two 25mm wide bridle leather belts with roller buckles, one going around the wrist, the other going around the biceps sitting 70mm below the top of the mitts. The top strap is not riveted onto the body but runs to a pair of D-rings sitting, one on each side of the lacing. There are two more pairs, each 120mm apart. The wrist belt is riveted onto the mitt. On top of the mitts another strap is riveted perpendicular onto the belt. With this strap and two pairs of rivets a D-ring is housed at the bottom of the mitts. A final D-ring can be found on the top, next to the lacing.

Detail of the Bottom D-ring

Playing with the Full Sleeve Bondage Mitts

Through the size and the area these mitts cover, I consider them “body bondage” items. Putting them on a sub takes a bit of work and time. But it is also part of the fun with these restraints. In the process is also a sense of drama in it, taking away more and more the ability of his arms to move and letting him feel the contrast between the soft touch and tightening of the leather – especially if the sub has a leather fetish. Just like with the Bishop Head Harness, “ritualistically” putting the mitts on sets the moods and helps getting into headspace.

Through the D-ring layout, these mitts can naturally work as a cuff restraints substitute in almost any situation. Most fun was had by my testees in spread eagle position or when having their arms tied upwards laying in the sling. In this position the degree of bondage can easily be increased by connecting the D-rings to the sling chains.

Detail of the Lacing and the lateral D-ring pairs

But the full sleeve mitts really start to shine when you connect the top D-rings to a (bulldog) harness and leave the bed (room) with your sub. With just loosening the lacing a bit, adding a strap to connect the bottom D-rings and interconnecting the lateral D-rings on both mitts, you have a veritable straitjacket sleeve substitute. For a stricter layout with less wiggle room, tie the arms to the side using a full body bondage harness. Then thread a belt through the bottom D-rings and fasten it around the thighs and the leather gimp can (somewhat) walk about without moving his arms. Personally I enjoyed most using the Full Sleeve Bondage Mitts in a bondage frame. The many attachments points inside the frame in combination with the many D-rings enabled me to fetter a sub securely enough to flog him.

Detail of the Roller Buckles

Since I like the esthetics and the helplessness, I tried turning the full sleeve mitts into arm binder by connecting the bottom D-rings with a shackle and the other D-rings with belts. The layout worked but a word of caution is necessary: Do not tighten the belts too tightly or too quickly. Unlike restraints for this specific purpose like the Fetters Leather Arm Binder you can easily get to a degree of tension that puts too much stress on the shoulders and elbows or restricts blood flow to the hands. So if you are a fan of “tighter is better”, I highly recommend adding specific arm binder restraints to your collection. A safer (and what turned out more fun) way is running a piece of rope through both bottom D-rings and a D-ring at the bottom of a parachute with spikes. This will limit the arm movement too – sooner or later.

Detail of the Lower Roller Buckle is connected to the Botto, D-ring

Another setup a top testee did but I would not recommend it connecting the top D-rings to a collar. The chances of the sub strangling himself or causing disc injuries are too high in my opinion.

Of course, through the many D-rings, these bondage mitts are an ideal addition to rope bondage. The simplest ways is tying the top D-rings into a torso harness or the bottom ones to the thighs. But an experienced rigger will surely find more creative ways to make use of all the D-rings like body harness or tying two subs together a rope-inexperienced person like me cannot imagine.

If the mitts with the lacing are not strict enough, I recommend buying two 40cm – 50cm (depending on the leeway you want to allow) spreader bars. Connect one end to the bottom D-ring, the other to the two D-ring holding the biceps strap in place to severely limit the arm movement.

Conclusion: Restrictive and versatile piece body bondage gear.
Pros Cons Where to get Price
Covers large body area for strong bondage and leather feeling Takes time to put on sub Regulation £275
…. but lacing alone only has limited restriction
14 D-ring in total
Connection bottom and top D-ring with a spread bar easily increases bondage degree massively …

ToyTorture’s Stocking Stuffer III – Fetters Portable Bondage Board

Fetters Portable Bondage Board equipped with Cuff Restraints

This year again, many kinksters will wish for their own playroom for Christmas. Having lived in dorms and with roommates, I am painfully aware that this wish often takes time to become true. So as the third Christmas gift recommendation I want to show you the Fetter Portable Bondage Board (which I have now reviewed in December 2021).

The board measures 107x612cm and features a total of 14 D-rings, 6 on the side and 2 on each end. So regardless if you are a rigger or using cuff style restraints with carabineers like me, it offers opportunities for many different bondage positions. Since it is thickly padded it is comfortable to kneel or lay in it for extended periods of time. As a cover material, you can choose between leather or a water- and oil-proof material. While looking at all the great leather gear I own from Fetters, the leather quality will be top notch, soft and smelling awesome, I would recommend the Rubluxe. From this material sweat can be easily wiped off and the bondage board can double as an underpacking for fisting – regardless if you prefer Crisco or excess Jlube.

The Rubluxe cover makes the foldable Bondage Board Waterproof

So far, it is also a good piece of bondage furniture for people with a playroom. But: The board can be folded in the middle! Then it only measures 53x61cm and at 10cm height, it can be easily stores away under a bed or in a wardrobe (IKEA Pax are 70cm deep ;)). At 10kg, it is a bit on the heavier side to travel with. But especially if you travel by car, I am certain you will get your effort’s worth at events like Folsom Europe.

Regardless of the cover material, the Fetters Portable Bondage Board costs £245 at Regulation in London.

Fetters Strap Face Cage

The Mr S Leather Fetters Strape Face Cage

Fetters Strap Face Cage

Vendor: Mr S Leather

Design

This piece of bondage gear is bit hard to describe. After a scene where I put it on an art major I once called it a “deconstructed hood” which has best approximation I could come up with yet. It is a system of over a dozen straps riveted together and attached to a collar to envelope the entire head. The straps around the head are made out of soft bridle leather to tightly follow the shape of the head. While the edges are burnished so there is no chafing, the straps’ bottom has not been treated! So especially with sweaty subs expect a lot of black lint on their head for the first few scenes. The folded garment leather straps as on the Bishop Head Harness would have been better. There are three vertical and two horizontal roller buckles on both sides. The have a large range of adjustability for a snug fit on almost every head size. The collar is made out of folded garment leather with a bridle leather strap on the outside. It is closed with a locking roller buckle.

The Blindfold and the Mouthcover with branded Mr S Snap Buttons

Around the eyes and the mouth the rivets have been replaced by snap buttons. The eyes can be covered with a blindfold made out of thicker bridle leather than the straps on the outside and soft garment leather with padding over the eyes on the inside. While the padding is good to even out the “high difference” of the different straps, it puts some pressure on the eyes and still lets some light in. The pressure situation gets better over time as the blindfold gets broken in more and more. But if you really want to isolate the sub visually, my advice – as always – is to blindfold your sub with a Mr S Ultra Blindfold before you strap the Face Cage around him. But since its padding is softer and the blindfold larger, even put over the cage’s straps the block-out will be more efficient. The mouth can be covered with a simple rectangle piece of bridle leather outside/ garment leather inside or apparently shut with a similar piece of leather featuring tongue suppressor. I learned about that option when I pulled up the product’s webpage to link at the end of the review. When I got this toy in September 2019, my Strap Face Cage did not come with it. So I am not sure if between then and now they added the option or if they forgot to add it to my order. Naturally, I cannot judge the play value of the tongue gag so please excuse this gap.

Detail of the collar’s D-ring

Another play feature are D-rings in the front of the collar and at the crown. As always with Mr S Leather they are sturdily secured under a piece of leather and riveted in place. They can take a beating and considerable force despite with a width of 23mm and a wire strength of 4,5mm being relatively small. The size is due to the straps’ width so they do not look out of proportion. Personally, I would have preferred them more “butch” but since they still do their duty excellently, there is no real reason to complain.

Playing with the Fetters Strap Face Cage

In the last review I also took a piece of bondage gear for people who easily overheat. This piece of head gear has the same properties. The straps are far enough apart for good ventilation and allow for enough sweat evaporation to cool the head in most situations.

Detail of the Roller Buckles to Adjust the Strap Cage

This makes the Strap Face Cage a good toy for outdoor scenes or events like Folsom Street fair. The head is especially prone to heat stroke so wearing a closed, especially black hood over the head can quickly lead to heat build-up – with fetal results. This limitation might disappoint some full coverage enthusiasts, but testees and play partners found some good fetish quality in the design. It has an archaic, Mad Max vibe. Exposing the sub while constraining him in a cage has great humiliation potential. Despite not covering all of the head it is a toy for a true leather fetishist. The soft leather straps hug the skins firmly yet smoothly and they smell like every piece of leather gear from Mr S leather.

Of course, this toy also offers great play capabilities. The D-rings placement is very thought-out. While the one at the front of the collar is pretty standard and naturally ideal for attaching a leash. The one at the crown makes the Strap Face Cage a good toy for tying the head down. If you make this anchor point the strictest on the head, there is almost no chance of the sub strangling himself. Since this hood does not restrict breathing, it is a great piece of gear to wear while sleeping. The soft leather in combination with the small and slim buckles on the side minimize the pressure for an actually mostly comfortable sleep. On the other hand of the softness spectrum, the rivets on the inside of the Strap Cage will intensify each blow dealt to the face! It actually made an experienced, masochist sub cry when his top gave him a backpfeiffe (it is a German regionalism you have to goolge).

The Strap Face Cage without the Blindfold and Mouth Cover

As most regular readers will know I am a sucker for sensation play. And this toy offered me a new perspective on this form of play. Usually sensation play is all about continuous stimulation. This twilight zone of stimulation and leather pressing into my skin drove me and my subs insane. We wanted to touch, the lick, the gentle blow of air to go on forever. But the was a strap in the way! Would the stimulation continue behind the strap or stop? This suspense, this play of tease and denial frustrated one sub so much that he safeworded. Of course, this only work with subs who have very sensitive skin and are highly receptacle for sensation play. For others, the space between the straps is too small to trigger the response to the induced sensations.

Conclusion: Combination of the bondage sensation of a straitjacket with great play access.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Unique design Leather straps leave lint on the head Mr S (Manufacturer) $289.95
Adjustable for a large range of head sizes
Two D-rings Blindfold could be softer
Presenting and possibly humiliating your sub without the fear of heat stroke

ToyTorture’s Stocking Stuffer II – House of Bascanio Muzzles

Comparison of the Four Different Muzzle Types

There are few individual toys I get so many reader questions about than the House of Bascanio Muzzles. Not a week passes by without a question in my inbox about their quality and play properties and which one I would recommend for a specific scene. Sadly I could not get my hands on one or two of them. But since I have heard good things about them I at least want to give them an honorary mention in the Christmas gift tips this year.

The Back of a House of Bascanio M5 Muzzle with Attached Bulldog Harness

House of Bascanio currently has the broadest range of muzzles for males with 7 varieties in production. Their muzzles itself did not reinvent the wheel. They all follow the basic design that Sinvention popularised over two decades ago. But the House of Bascanio takes the design to the next level. On the higher range models all their straps are made out of garment leather so they hug the skull tighter for less wiggle room and stronger bondage. They also offer a greater scope and ranger of size customization for a better fit. The more elaborate models feature padding all over the muzzle for more comfort when lying down, a thicker and wider collar (the M2 and M3 even has a design come close to a posture collar for stricter bondage) or locking pins for securing the muzzle. Depending on the model, there are considerably more D-rings which as you know if you have been reading my blog for some time is always better. Speaking if anchor points: Some models can be ordered with a bulldog harness connected to them for more security and a uniform look.

The range of the House of Bascanio muzzles starts at CAD209 and goes up to CAD899 for the top of the line model connected to a padded chest harness.