McHurt Rinding Whip Dungeon

Vendor: McHurt

The McHurt Riding Crop "Dungeon"

The McHurt Riding Crop „Dungeon“

After having talked so much about different ways to stretch your balls today I want to review one of my favorite toys to torture them.


The Dungeon riding whip from McHurt follows a slightly different design than your standard riding crop: First of all the entire toy is made out of leather. The shaft has a length of 28cm before the swat begins and is made out of several layers of thick and sturdy bridle leather which is sowed and glue together. At the bottom end of the shaft a hand loop is glued between the different leather layers. At the top end of the shaft there is a swat measuring approx. 16cm in total length with 10,5cm usable length by 4,1cm width.

Detail of the Multi-Layer all Leather Shaft sowed and glued together

Detail of the Multi-Layer all Leather Shaft sowed and glued together

It is made out three sowed and glue together layers of soft nappa leather which is stiff enough for a decent blow.

On the whip I own the edges on one side of the swat are rather sharp and hard, on the other soft and round. I will be at McHurt this Friday to figure out if this is the case for all riding whips. The bottom of the shaft is decorated with weaved leather a bit like a knot on a flogger. The overall length of the toy is approx. 45cm without the hand loop.

Color wise you have to options: Either a classic black or Bordeaux colored shaft. The swat is always black.

Playing with it

Detail of the Swat

Detail of the Swat

The classic design makes playing with this riding whip different than with today’s standard riding crops. The swat is much large, so the impact sensation is a bit like hitting with a small, flexible paddle which is mounted onto a long handle. Also due to being sowed and glued together the “slapping effect” doesn’t occur so the pain is less intense and less stingy than you would expect from a “riding” toy. But the design doesn’t take away the nice sound when the slapper hits the skin so this toy is good for an impressive show without too intense pain. But don’t let yourself be fooled: Depending on the force you put into the blow this toy can seriously hurt!

The Mesh Knot with the Hand Loop and embossed McHurt Logo

The Mesh Knot with the Hand Loop and embossed McHurt Logo

In my opinion these properties make this toy ideal for CBT: The handle is ideal for leisurely hitting the balls of your sub when he p.e. is kneeling in front of you or is laying on a bondage table so the top doesn’t have to bend down too much. The less intense force (= pain) is enough to put the sub into agony without causing damage too quickly.

Of cause this riding whip is also ideal for a traditional spanking scene. Beside the swat the flexible yet sturdy shaft can be used for hitting. The handling is a bit difficult if you don’t want the sub to be hit by the swat but with a bit of exercise you can deliver nice thuddy blows. They won’t be as intense as when using a Sjambok but still will be memorable.

Conslusion: Not too intense, all leather spanking tool
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Good adjustability of the pain Too flexible build for intense pain McHurt 34€
Impressive look and sound without too much pain Shaft a bit short compared to other crops
Good build quality
All leather toy


Recon Leather Ball Stretcher

Vendor: Recon


The Ballstretcher with Divider in the smallest Adjustment

The Ballstretcher with Divider in the smallest Adjustment

After having covered Mr S’ ball stretcher range the last two weeks today I am going to take a look at the most basic ball stretcher from Recon which I have got in the 5cm width. The stretcher itself is made out of two layers of leather: The outer is a stiff, almost cardboard like leather, the inner is a soft one. Due to this construction all metal parts are making skin contact again bringing potential allergic problems. Three snap buttons hold the stretcher in place, sadly there is only one diameter adjustment for 3,7cm.

The 1,9cm wide divider has the same basic construction: the stiffer leather on the outside, the softer leather on the inside. It is hold in place by three black rivets on the wider part and through the three snap buttons you can have three different length settings: 9cm length with 4,1cm space between the rim of the stretcher and the divider, 10cm and 4,8cm and finally 11cm and 5,7cm. There is a not welded d-ring which freely runs along the divider. On the one hand this is handy because you can put it for bondage purposes on the front or back of the balls but on the other hand it can fall off the divider (which to be honest is unlikely because it would have to get over the three female parts of the snap buttons).

Playing with it

In order to play with this toy you need a fairly large scrotum. Because the leather is really stiff this stretcher isn’t really forgiving lengthwise. If it fits really well (or even a bit loose) it is comfortable to wear for some time, but if it fits tightly or as soon as you add 250g of weight the hard edge will start to hurt and irritate the skin. Due to the divider allowing for quite large settings this toy is made for people with REALLY large balls or people into pumping/ saline play.

The only Diameter is 3,7cm

The only Diameter is 3,7cm

Playwise the same things can be done than with the Mr S one (which I will mostly just copy and paste for your convenience):  Because the d-ring is in the middle the pull of weights is directly downward and is felt more on the individual balls than on the sack itself. When you start moving the weight, p.e. when wanking, is will start to swing freely and will gather moving momentum which will increase the pull on the balls. Of cause you can use the d-ring as an anchor point for carabineers again. I particularly had fun attaching it tightly to the end of my shoulder-to-wrist-restraints.

The divider offers some interesting possibilities for CBT. It makes targeting single balls more easily like for attaching single electrodes (fried eggs anyone?), individual pressure or hitting (my favorite for this is a riding whip). Another cool thing which I enjoyed very much is sensation play: Cool one ball with ice and drop wax on the other.

Conslusion: A basic, inexpensive ball stretcher for large balls with inferior leather
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Incredible inexpensive Inferior Leather Recon  (Manufacturer) 5cm: £47,5cm: £510,5cm: £6
Doesn’t collapse easily Hard edges
Divider suitalbe for REALLY big balls Only one diameter adjustments

HML Electro Ballstretcher

HML Electro StretcherThe last two weeks I have been talking about ball stretchers and will continue the next couple of weeks. But D-Rings and dividers are not only the only extras you can put onto a ball stretcher: This one from HML has both of the features and two electrodes to fry your balls. The thought of weight pulling down and swinging on my balls while they are zapped or setting the weight in motion by the shocks is really tempting. And 24,90€ for a leather ball stretcher with divider, a d-ring AND electrodes is a fair price.


Mr S Ball Stretcher with Divider

Vendor: Mr S


Oil Taned LeatherUnlike last week’s stretcher this one is made out of a single 3,8cm wide piece of leather which Mr S calls oil tanned. Despite being nearly 2mm thick is it very soft and has smooth edges making it comfortable to wear. The comfort has the downside that this stretcher isn’t as stiff as others thus the stretch will not as strong as other stretcher with the same width. Also due to only using a single piece of leather the metal is able to make contact with the skin which can be a problem with people being allergic to certain metals. The stretcher is closed with a pair of snap buttons with the Mr S logo on them. You can choose between a diameter of 3,4cm and 2,7cm.

Logo Snap ButtonsThe divider strap is made out of trifolded garment leather and 1,9cm wide. Two rivets attach it to the wider part and there are two snap buttons which allow a divider length of 6cm with 2,5cm space between the rim of the stretcher and the divider strap and 5cm length with 1,2cm. On top of the divider is a not welded d-ring which is hold in place of a strap of trifolded garment leather two rivets. The space between the rivets is large enough so that the d-ring can move into the middle of the divider on both length settings.

On Mr S’ website this toy is still shown with three snap buttons above each other and thus a larger divider strap. When I was at their store in May 2013 they told me that they only make this two in the width I am owning it. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing because the stretch is comfortable for all people who tried this stretcher on. However the divider strap was too short for all but one. Apparently Europeans have larger/ meatier balls. Please keep in mind that the stretcher and divider will be shorter than shown on your website when considering this toy.

The two Divider adjustments

The two Divider adjustments

Playing with it

This section is a bit hard to write because most of my testees couldn’t try out the full potential of this stretcher. As a simple leather ball stretcher it is the best I have got for long-term wear (even more comfortable than the Mr S one with a D-ring I reviewed last week) because the soft leather will more easily adjust to tighter balls. But as written above the divider sadly was too small for nearly all my testees and me. So I have to rely on a single report here.

Left: 3,4cm diameter Right: 3,7cm diameter

Left: 3,4cm diameter
Right: 3,7cm diameter

Of cause you can do everything with this d-ring as with the one last week. The weight sensation will be a bit different. Since the d-ring is in the middle the pull is directly downward and is felt more on the individual balls than on the sack itself. When you start moving the weight, p.e. when wanking, is will start to swing freely and will gather moving momentum which will increase the pull on the balls. Of cause you can use the d-ring as a anchor point for carabineers again. I particularly had fun attaching it tightly to the end of my shoulder-to-wrist-restraints.

Detail of the Divider with the D-Ring on top

Detail of the Divider with the D-Ring on top

The divider offers some interesting possibilities for CBT. It makes targeting single balls more easily like for attaching single electrodes (fried eggs anyone?), individual pressure or hitting (my favorite for this is a riding whip). Another cool which I enjoyed very much is sensation play: Cool one ball with ice and drop wax on the other.

Conslusion: A great ball stretcher with a lot of play potential – if the divider is large enough
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Comfortable to wear for a long time Only come on one width Mr S (Manufacturer) $39.95
Great workmanship Metal is making contact with the skin
D-Ring D-ring is not welded
Good value for money Divider strap is too short



Mr S Ball Stretcher with D-Ring

Vendor: Mr S


StretcherThe stretcher is made out off a trifolded soft 3,8cm wide leather. The folding has a number of advantages: First through the three layers and the seam in the middle the leather is stiff enough and doesn’t collapse easily to provide a good stretch and yet is flexible enough to be comfortable to wear. Second through the folding the edges form a smooth piping on one side; on the other side there is a piping and an edge which doesn’t irritate the skin too much due to the soft leather. A third advantage would be that all metal parts could be covered with leather making it safe for allergic people to use. But for this toy Mr S decided to put the counter parts of the rivets through all three layers which at least robust them sturdier. As always with leather toys from Mr S the stitching quality is top of the notch.

In order to adjust the stretcher there are two pairs of snap fasteners leaving you with three diameters to adjust the stretcher: 4,3cm, 3,8cm and 3,1cm. A nice touch is the Mr S logo on the outside of the snap buttons.

Diameter from left to right: 4,3cm, 3,8cm and 3,1cm

Diameter from left to right: 4,3cm, 3,8cm and 3,1cm

A nifty feature of this toy is the small d-ring which is a hold in place by two rivets and double layer leather strap. Sadly the d-ring is not welded as which is the case with most other small d-rings.

Detail of the trifolding with "loose" end on top

Detail of the trifolding with „loose“ end on top

Playing with it

The toy is good at everything what a ball stretcher should do: It stretches your balls to make them bounce around when walking, fucking or jerking off, prevent that your balls get closer to the body when you come which intensifies the orgasm and keeps your ball in place and offer an easy way to grip them when they get spanked. And because the leather and workmanship is such high quality you can wear the stretcher for an extended period of time. One of my test person wore it for over a day.

Detail of the D-Ring

Detail of the D-Ring

What sets this stretcher aside from a standard one is the d-ring which is not attached to a divider so if it is not used it doesn’t get into your way. The obvious thing to do with the d-ring it to attach a weight. Because the d-ring is not centered you can create two different sensations: When you put a barrel-shaped weight on front off the stretcher it beats your balls; when you put it on the back the feeling of weight pulling on your balls is even more intense than with a centered one. As with standard restraints the d-ring can be used for all kind of bondage purposes: Either attach a leash, use it to tie the sub down to the bed, nipple clamps, the spreader bar or any pair of restraints attached to the legs so there is a small reminder that there is something around his ball with every step the sub takes. When doing this please keep in mind that the d-ring is not welded. When too much force pulls in opposite directions on the d-ring there is a chance that it will come open.

The Mr S Logo Snap Buttons

The Mr S Logo Snap Buttons

Sadly Mr S seems to have stopped making this great ball stretcher but I believe if you ask them nicely they can still make you a custom one.

Conslusion: Good standard ball stretcher with a nice added feature
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Great quality leather and over all workmanship Metal is making contact with the skin Mr S (Manufacturer) Out of Production, last known price $18
D-Ring D-ring is not welded
Can be worn for an extended period of time Only comes in one width
Good value for money



Buyers Guide to Restraints

About every other week I get a message asking me about different aspects of choosing the right restraints. So in order to get back into writing articles, I condensed the collected answers into this piece. If you feel something is missing or have a recommendation, feel free to send me an e-mail.



Restraints can be made out of any material that is somewhat soft and can withstand force. Because of that I will only cover the most common ones you will come across in most stores. Some special kind of restraints like Segufix or everything only made out of metal will probably be featured in a future article.


It is the most common material to make restraints out of. It is very durable if taken correct care off, will withstand force and is soft and gentle to the skin – if you take the right leather. The right leather means a more softer (and mostly thinner) hide on the inside (mostly calf, lamb or fine cow) and a thicker, sturdier hide on the outside (mostly cow, bull, swine, but also kangaroo or buffalo).

Leather Restraints

Leather Restraints

I would advise you not to be doing too much of kinky on a budget when purchasing leather restraints. First they are an investment that will stay with you for many years and you will use in almost every scene, secondly in recent years east Asian manufacturers discovered the kink market. Their quality of products ranges from shocking to fairly decent. The biggest issue with any leather toys from Asia are that most hides are treat with chemicals like Chromium to save time and money. You will most likely wear this kind of leather on your bare skin which can lead to allergies. And unlike jeans p.e. you can’t wash restraints 10 times in order to get the chemicals out of there. This will not be the case with every leather toy you will get from East Asia but it is something to keep in mind, especially when you shop around on eBay. I would always recommend investing a few bucks more and support a local dealer who knows where is products come from.


Most fabric restraints are made out of nylon but I have seen cotton, canvas and even cevlar ones. They are lighter and smaller than leather restraints and are mostly on the lower end of the price range. This makes them good for starters or if you want to keep a little emergency set in your toy box just in case you forget you bondage bag. Depending on the material they are really easy to clean and disinfect.


There are two types of rubber restraints out there: the one made out of soft latex that is also used on fetish wear and thicker, harder rubber (in Germany we call them „old tires“).

As much as I love rubber as a material general speaking but for a few exceptions rubber restraints are not made for hard play. You can restrict movement with them but if someone really struggles or fights against them, they will probably break (I have destroyed three pairs so far in my BDSM career). The thicker rubber ones are able to withstand more force but are also stiffer. You can find them for little money on eBay but most of the time they just cut rubber mats in stripes and added a few metal piece. But due to being stiff the edges are hard and can cause bruises when struggling in them. If you purchase such restraints in a dedicated kink store the edges will most likely be deburred which makes them less harmful but they still won’t be comfortable.

If you want more comfortable rubber restraints go for the latex ones. They are as soft as any rubber attire piece. Sadly the comfort is traded in for durability. The manufacturers try to deal with the issue by putting fabric tape between two layers of latex. I am definitely not the strongest sub in the world and a layer of fabric tape between two layers of 0.9mm of latex didn’t stop me from tearing them apart. I have talked to my local kink master mind at Demask in Dortmund and he told me that Kevlar as a fabric is really the only way to make durable simple rubber restraints. But Kevlar is a difficult material to work with as is rubber and latex overall. Thus the prices for rubber restraints are rather high compared to leather ones. However there is a big benefit with rubber restraints: unlike leather they can get a dirty and wet as you want them to be. So if you want to restrain yourself or your sub in the piss area (or nastier places…), I would advise using rubber or…


There a number of different neoprene variants out there all of which I have seen turned into restraints. Covering every one would be too much for this article so please check at Wikipedia which one works best for you. All kinds of neoprene are sturdier than rubber and can deal with dirty, wetness and can deal fairly well even with oils so they are the material you want to use in a gunge or oil scene.



Restraints consist of a body and depending on the closing mechanism also a strap.

The body is the part you wrap around the part of the sub’s body you want to restrain.

There are three ways to construct a body:

  1. One piece non-folded: In this case the body is made out of one piece of sturdy (and hopefully somewhat comfy) leather. When purchasing make sure that the edges are not sharp so there is no injury possibility.


    Trice Folded Leahter Restraint

  2. One piece folded: A folded one piece is made of a single piece of mostly a bit softer leather folded at least once so on one side you have a piping-like edge. The other side can feature a piping which is not really necessary when the leather is soft enough. Because a piping is always thicker than just a fold the restraint might look a bit imbalanced with piping just on one side. You will find a seam around the open side, good folded restraints also have a seam on the fold for added stability.
  3. Two pieces: Most leather restraints are a two piece construction with stiffer leather on top and softer leather (or fleece, fur, suede etc. as lining) on the inside. Between these layers padding can be added. Padding does not only make restraints more comfortable for long term wearing, they also can create pressure without cutting circulation when you tighten the restraints using a buckle (see below). Since you have two more or less stiff leather edges, good two piece restraints have a piping running around them to make them smoother. The advantage of piping is that it can be made in a different color this bringing a bit more color into your play bag or displaying your hanky.

Padding on a Leather Restraint

Straps, buckles, D-rings, etc. are mostly held in place by rivets holding down a leather strap (I have seen them sewed down but I strongly believe that just some thread holding down a d-ring a sub is pulling isn’t a good solution). With every construction but the one piece non-fold it is a personal or design decision if you want the counter part of the rivet touching your skin. Since the rivets are mostly made out of stainless steel there is no medical issue with them touching the skin, but the sensation at least at the beginning is a bit different since they are colder and harder than the surrounding leather. Because of that

most of the time the counterparts are put between two layers of leather or below the padding (a prominent example where it isn’t the case are the Mr S Fetters USA Padded Locking Restraints).



The most common method to close a restraint is using a strap with different types of clasps:

  1. Roller Buckle on a two piece Leather Restraint with Piping

    Roller Buckle on a two piece Leather Restraint with Piping

    Buckle: Probably the most traditional closing method that works like a belt. Good buckles have a roller buckle which makes pulling the strap through the buckle more easily. The hole spacing determines how accurately you can adjust the restraints. If the strap is made out of more than one piece of leather the holes should be reinforced by metal rings so that the pin won’t accidently harm the edges of the hole. This is not necessary if you use a locking restraints with eyelets because the “pin” is round and smooth (see below).

  2. Double D-ring: On the end of the strap there are two d-ringthrough which you thread the strap.The advantage of this kind of mechanism is that the restraints can be adjusted steplessly.
Bail closing with a 20mm padlock

Bail closing with a 20mm padlock

Not a clasp but still requiring a strap are bails. The strap has slots punched into it where you pull the bails through. In order to fix the restraints, you can use a carabiner or a padlock. Since the hole distance is mostly the same than with a buckle strap this kind of restraint is as tight as a buckle one but faster and locking. But you always need some hardware to close it.

If you don’t want to deal with a strap there are some restraints out there using (industry grade) Velcro. The advantage of Velcro is that it is easy to handle, steplessly adjustable and gives especially the newbie a sense of security (if something goes wrong, just pull it open).


Attachment Points

Once you have put the restraints on, you need to attach them to something in order to restrict the restraint person’s movements. I have seen restraints with just a leather loop sewed to the restraints. I am not really convinced that this will work because leather stretches out and as written under construction I don’t trust threads with holding down power subs. In my opinion the only real deal are D-rings. Most of them are made out of metal but I have seen ones made out of plastic. Because nowadays there are some amazing kinds of strong and durable kinds of plastic out there, I can’t really say anything against them. But I haven’t tried them out; if you have experience with restraints with plastic D-rings, please contact me.

D-Ring hold in place by rivets

D-Ring hold in place by rivets

The majority of metal D-rings are made out of stainless steel so they won’t break – if they are welded. In order to save money I have seen non-welded ones (on the bottom there is a little gap instead of a weldseam). If the force pulling on the D-ring is always directly opposite of the gap, this is no problem. But in most situation the force will pull on one or the other end thus pulling the D-ring open!

Regarding the number of D-rings that is really a personal choice. For “basic” restraints like wrist and ankle one D-ring per restraint is enough, but p.e. for a thigh restraint I would want at least three. General speaking more is better when it comes to the number of D-rings because it gives you more pervy options.



I know off two ways of building in a locking option into a restraint: the eyelet way and the Mr S way (I call it that way because I have only seen it used on restraints by Mr S). When using the eyelet way there is a small eyelet inside the pin of the buckle where you put a padlock through. The eyelet is usually big enough for a 20mm padlock.

Locking Buckle with Eyelet

Locking Buckle with Eyelet

The big downside of this method is that through the eyelet the pin gets fairly wide thus the holes in the strap have to be larger and can’t be reinforced by rivets. The last point is only a style thing: there is less metal on the restrains and the belt should be made out of a single piece of thick leather (s.o.). The first point is influencing play because due to the larger holes you can’t close the restraints in as fine pitches as with a normal pin buckle.

Mr S has found a solution for that: they take a normal pin buckle and put a stud with an eyelet behind the buckle. Once you have closed the strap in the buckle you fix the buckle in place over the stud and put a 20mm padlock inside the eyelet. Through this combination you can adjust the restraints finely and still lock it.


Types of restraints

Most people think of the leather cuffs for wrists and ankles when they hear restraints. But there are a lot of other cuffs out there so you can create a Segufix-like full body suspension: Cuffs for thighs, upper arms and belts for chest and hips. And for special purpose´s there are a ton of different special restraints out there like:

This list makes no claim of being complete because there are a lot of pervy minds out there creating new and exciting kink gear every day.


What restraints should I buy?

I have written this article to give a short (and probably incomplete) overview what aspects of a restraint impacts the play so you can make a decision what you want to look for when you shop around for restraints.

Double D-ring

Double D-ring

In my opinion even if you are a rope top you should at least have a pair of wrist and ankle restraints just in case you want to quickly suspend someone. If you are a sub you should own the perfect (and perfectly fitting!) restraints you want to have used on you so there is not disappointment when the top wants to restrain you and his don’t fit.

What specific restraints I would recommend really depends on your budget. You can get a pair of high quality leather restraints for around 50€ (like mine from McHurt), if you can deal with the uncertainty of the way the hides have been treated, pick up the ones from The Anubis Pack because you get entire basic set plus thigh restraints and collar for £56.If money isn’t really an issue I would recommend the locking restraints from Fetters USA from Mr S. I brought them over from the US for a friend of mine, they are great manufacturing and leather quality , are locking and have to D-rings, basically anything I would want in a pair of restraints but that comes with a price: $129.95 for the wrist restraints, $139.95 for the ankle restraints. What I would always recommend is going to your local kink store, try them out, get an experts opinion and buy what you feel comfortable with.


If you have any further question, you can always write me an e-mail, send me a tweet @ToyTorture or hit me up on Recon or PlanetRomeo at ToyTorture.

Anubis Pack 7 Piece Padded Leather Restraint Set

Vendor: Anubis Pack

From left to right: Wrist, Ankle, Thigh, Collar

From left to right: Wrist, Ankle, Thigh, Collar

From top to bottom: Wrist, Ankle, Collar, Thigh

From top to bottom: Wrist, Ankle, Collar, Thigh

I have treated myself to these restraints as a Christmas gift because I wanted a second pair of restraints and I wanted locking ones. Since a lot of my friends who are in the market for leather restraints or locking restraints this review is one by public demand. If you want a review of one of my toys, just send me a mail.


The set consists of a pair of wrist restraints, a pair of ankle restraints, a pair if thigh restraints and a collar which makes it the perfect combination for puppy play I believe. All restraints are made out of leather and come in black. It is their genuine design and they are made in a factory in Malaysia exclusively for the Anubis Pack and their distributors.

I have to say, these are one of the most complex and most interestingly constructed padded restraints I have come across. The padding is stored inside a cushion of soft leather with the edges folded around so there are no sharp edges or any irritations due to skin rubbing on the seam. This cushion is sewed to a thick, sturdy piece of leather. Interestingly the guys decided not to add the closing strap onto the top of the body but the body and cushion leather runs out into the strap with 2.5cm of hole spacing. On top of the body runs a strap which holds the D-rings (two for ankle and wrist restraints, three for the collar and a lavish four for the thigh restraints) and the buckle in place. All buckles are lockable but sadly not roll buckles. The restraints come in one size fits (really) all:

  • Collar restraints: 31cm to 47cm circumference
  • Wrist restraints: 10cm to 27cm circumference
  • Thigh restraints: 40cm to 57cm circumference
  • Ankle restraints: 14cm to 31cm circumference

Playing with them

Non roller locking buckle

Non roller locking buckle

These restraints feel SOLID! Due to the construction with up to six layers of leather they are stiffer than other restraints and will take a longer period to be broken in. Because the buckles don’t have a roll tightening the restraints can be a bit of an effort especially in the breaking-in period. But due to the soft and thick padding you can apply a fairly big amount of force when putting them on without hurting the sub. Through the unique strap construction and the one size fits all approach there is a fairly large unpadded area when using the holes for the wider setting. This is something I haven’t experienced with other restraints. But that being said I your sub has to be REALLY beefy and big in order to be forced to use these holes.

Ankle Restraint in smallest and largest hole

Ankle Restraint in smallest and largest hole

Once they have been put onto your sub they perform like every leather restraints but they really start to shine when it come to elaborate bondage scenes. Through the large number of D-rings you have many points you can attach to a bed, to a frame or to each other. A nice touch is that the strap running over the D-rings is not only hold down by rivets but seam is holding down the D-ring even tighter. I am skeptical how much of the pulling force is distributed to the rivets and thus how long the seam will withstand the pulling. But for now I like how little play the D-ring has. Because the seams on the lower side are well embedded inside the padding and the fold is sewed under the body of the restraints the chance of irritations during long term bondage is very low. The locking buckles don’t really add anything physical to the play but for many subs not being able to just pull the strap loose is a great mindfuck. You can lock the restraints using a standard 20mm pad lock.

Conslusion: Reliable restraint set for a great price
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Great value for money Great value for money Anubis Pack (Manufacturer) Apparently not available any more. Last known price £56
Thick padding Thick padding
Many D-rings Many D-rings
Locking Locking
Great value for money  

Christmas Gift Tip III: Kinky Teddy Bears

One of the first pieces of advice I have gotten when I have started to get into heavier play was to always have something to hold onto ready when the endorphins should crash down hard. So I made it a rule to have a stuffed animal around when I had a play session. It is a standard one that might look a bit odd in a dungeon. Luckily there are a number of different options out there to get some kinky inspired cuddle material not only for the playroom but your couch or to piss of your siblings when you give their youngsters an “alternative” stuffed animal.

For many years Fetters has been making teddy bears made out of leather. Depending on the model they can be customized in dozens of ways: Different color combinations, collars, toys, etc.


 Daddy Fetter Bear 60cm around 110€


Bondage Fetter Bear 60cm starting at 112€

Fetters3Baby Fetter Bear 60cm around 90€

Just recently Recon teamed up with Fetters to create a teddy bear in their icon color combination of black and read. He comes collard and has a zipper pocket on the back to maybe store other post session stuff like chocolate.


Recon Cable Lock Leather Bear 88,88€

If you are not into leather and like the “classic” plushy bears there are also a number of different options out there.

HM Leather offers teddy bears in three different versions of leather gear from full body harnesses to chaps and vest.


HML Scene Teddys 39,90€

The SlingKing teddy bear is the ideal choice for bondage boy coming in a full body harness, leather cap, blindfold and restraints.


SlingKing Bär Marci 89,95€

If you are like me more of a pain pig Peitschenhandel has an entire range of stuffed pain pigs… ehm… bears engaging into tit torture, flogging or being bound into all kinds of positions.

Peitschenhandel1Peitschenhandel Teddy with Nipple Clamps 19,99€

Peitschenhandel3Peitschenhandel Teddy with stand pillory, Flogger and Shirt 59,90€

SeriousToyS “Janus” Paddle

Left: Cow hide side of the Janus Paddle
Right: The all lacquer coverd paddle

As you might know when it comes to impact play I am more a fan of thuddy sensations. So purchasing paddles is always a bit depressing since most of them sting. When I visited Demask Dortmund to take pictures of the Rubber sarcophagus I was surprised to find a new kind of paddle: It has the form and basic construction of the McHurt Mini Bat but is offered in new and exciting varieties: The first variety is an all black paddle covered in lacquer which has SERIOUS sting. The second one I have named “Janus” Paddle: One side comes in normal cow hide, the other side is made out of padded suede. While the cow side has the same sensation as the McHurt Mini bat, the suede has despite being small and light a nice, deep thuddy sensation which I love. This version of the paddle comes in different color schemes: All black or with red suede. Apparently there is a all brown version in the making and one with lacquer on one side and suede on the other side.

Left: Padded suede side of the Janus Paddle
Right: The all lacquer coverd paddle

This toy has earned itself a place on my desiderate list  because it is the first toy I have come across that combines small size and light weight with great thud.

All versions of the paddle cost 39€ and can be ordered via e-mail.

Mr S Ultra Blindfold

Venor: Mr S


Pads below the eyes

As always with leather toys from Mr S this blindfold is made out of high quality leather.  The basic construction is like a sleeping mask you get on an air planes but with measuring 20cm from one end to the other it is large enough to cover the face of even people with large heads. Around the part covering the eyes runs leather piping which helps keeping the mask in shape. Below the eyes there are two thick and soft pads which help to block any light coming from below while keeping pressure from the eyes. When worn the mask is held in place by two straps: One is running above the ears, the other below. The first part of the straps is made out of trifolded leather mounted to the leather using rivets. The second part is an elastic band which can be adjusted to make wearing it comfortable yet pull the blindfold tightly enough towards the head in order block any light.

Front view

Putting the blindfold on is a bit of a hassle because at least the clumsy me had problems adjusting the straps while the sub is already wearing the blindfold which resulted in taking it off several times until it fit perfectly. But once it does it is frankly the best blindfold I have every worn: It is comfortable enough to be worn for a really long time, when adjusted correctly it can even withstand a sub ferociously wiggling while strapped down to a bed and still will block out any light. A nice feature are the two little pockets formed between the padding and the leather which can catch the tears of the sub.

Besides the use in the playroom the blindfold has become my standard sleeping mask when travelling because it blocks the light so well and is so comfortable. It even led to some interesting conversations and encounters while traveling to kinky events. But that is a different story…

Detail of the double d-ring adjusting mechanism and elastic band

Mr S also offers a version of that blindfold called the Ultimate Blindfold which has only one strap running above the ear. I played around with it when I visited the store. It blocks the light as well as the Ultra Blindfold, is a bit more comfortable to wear because the ears sometimes get in the way of the lower strap and is $2 cheaper. However due to only having one strap to keep it in place it is easier for the sub to shed it when he is bound.

Conslusion: The best blindfold I have come across until now
Pro Cons Where to get Price
No pressure on the eyes and thus can be worn for an extended period of time Difficult to adjust while being worn Mr S (Manufacturer) $58,95
Blocks all light Regulation £54,99
Large enough for people with bigger heads
Good adjustability
Stays in place
Great quality