Buyer’s Guide To Collars has always been sort of a reflection of my own play style and my own desires manifested in toys. As authentic and honest reviews at that approach might create the flaw of it is that I am missing out on entire categories of toys. Sometimes I get asked about these categories over and over. Chastity is one of them, collars is another. Since a collar is the strongest bondage device out there yet I am not really into them I decided at the end of the Heavy Bondage Special to give a short overview of the collars out there. Especially in the paragraph about the symbolism of collars I am making a lot of generalizations. Please do not feel offended if your individual perception is different but celebrate it as the diversity that is the heart of our community. After that I briefly talk about the different materials collars can be made out of. The last and main part of this article are showing different kinds of collars. I sorted the collars into two categories: The first are decorative collars which primarily serve a symbolic purpose and through their designed are not primarily designed to be integrated into play. The latter category are functional collars which are made to be played with.


The Symbolism of Collars

Collars have a strong symbolic meaning in the BDSM community. They are a sign that a person belongs to someone. It is common for top who wants to establish a deeper and long-term orientated relationship with a bottom to put a collar around his neck to show him and the world that the sub belongs to him and is no longer free. This act is called “collaring”. Being collard usually implies a interdependent relationship: The top promises to give the sub something usually guidance, protection and play in exchange for the subs devotion, obedience, trust and loyalty. Due to the powerful contract which a collar symbolizes it is a very special piece of gear which is treated unlike any other. Usually only the top is allowed to put it on and take it off, most of the time also only the top may touch it. Touching the collar of a sub without asking the top for permission is considered highly offensive and even hostile by some people. In some high protocol situations it is even forbidden to talk to a collard sub because you are violating the property of another top. Also in a high protocol environment it is not uncommon for subs to walk around with a collar around his neck but with an open lock. This is a signal that he is open for a top to collar him. Closing the lock just for fun or laughs again is offensive because the sub probably hopes to get at least some of the affection listed above from the persons who closed the lock.


Collars can be made of nearly every fetish material out there. Most common are leather collars. Because the material is skin friendly and to a certain degree can absorb sweat it is best for long term wear. Rubber and neoprene lack this quality so wearing it for extended periods of time can lead to skin irritation, especially when wearing a collar out of stiff industrial rubber without deburred edges on bare skin. The last common material to mention here is metal. I have seen collars being made out of all different kinds of metal. However I would recommend only ones being made out of stainless steel or aluminum because even when exposed to sweat they do not rust. Other metals like cooper or steel oxidizes. Because a collar through constant movement experiences some physical stress corrosion prevention applied to steel like chrome or zinc wears off and the collar can rust again. Of cause noble metals like gold or platinum do not rust but you have to be quite the posh kinkster to afford such a collar. Metal collars come in form of chain, chainmail, rings or steel cable. When it comes to chain you can choose between welded and forged chain. Welded chain industrial made and thus cheaper and has a deburred weldseam. Depending on the quality the deburration is not as good as it should be so there is a potential for scratches when wearing a collar. So before wearing it check the seams of there are not rough edges.

More uncommon materials I have seen collars made out of are braided rope, jeans cloth, bike chain and tires.

Decorative Collars


Probably the most common form of the collars and thus comes in various styles (p.e. from Mr S or Regulation). All have in common that they are closed by a pad lock which is mostly worn up front. The most common pattern is the anchor chain which is made out of round links which either come in long or short versions and in various thicknesses. Even when using a small pad lock the link size is usually so large that this kind of collar can’t be worn discreetly under a shirt. Depending on the personal style the chain can be worn longer or tight around the neck. The advantage of this chain is that you can easily attach things to the collar using pad locks or carabiners. Depending on the pad lock quality you can grab and pull the sub on this collar.

Mr S Yellow Colors Aluminum Chainmail Collar

Mr S Yellow Colors Aluminum Chainmail Collar


Chainmail is a material where small metal rings are linked together to form a mesh-like surfaces. Collars out of this material are lighter and smaller and thus more discreet than chains. Of cause they are also more fragile and should not be pulled on. A nifty feature of the Mr S Aluminum ones is that they come in different colors so you can use them a bit as a hanky. If you can a bit more weighted feeling try out the stainless steel one.

Torquator Collar

Stylewise somewhere between a chain pattern and chainmail this collar was originally designed to restrain dogs. So this collar is popular by dog players especially of wild ones. When pulling onto this collar please be careful because serious injuries can be the result.


Cable Lock

Another discreet option is the cable lock collar from Recon. The collar itself is made out of coated steel but since there are no moving links the coating will probably will not rub off keeping the cable from rusting. The two endings are made out of stainless steel with colored rubber accents so again you can show your favorite kink. Unlike the chainmail collar this one is also closed with a lock which has a great psychologically effect. The lock and the collar are small and discreet enough to be worn under a dress shirt during work yet to frail to be pulled on.

Rope Collar

If a closed look is too much of a statement or you don’t like the idea of metal around your neck (after all a collar is all about the headspace), Mr S came up with a rope collar. It is made out of black braided rope and closed with a leather strap and a non-locking roller buckle. If you ask the guys at Mr S nicely the can probably make you this collar also in other colors

Tolan Collar

This is basically an ergonomically shaped ring of steel around the sub’s neck. It is nearly seamless and rather sleek so it can be worn under a business shirt without showing off or attracting attention. Since it is made out of stainless steel it will not rust.


I am not sure if to put jougs into this category or the play category because wearing them for an extended period of time is definitely a punishment! Jougs or iron collars are made out of piece of steel, sometimes lined with leather for additional comfort. They are closed by padlocks, integrated locks or screws. Sometimes they come with d-rings welded onto them for added play possibilities. Sometimes following antic models they already have cuffs for the hands attached or even also feet welded with chains onto them. Another version are double rigid irons for the neck and the wrists for real stress bondage.

The Heaviest Parus Steel Collar Weighing 8.5kg

The Heaviest Parus Steel Collar Weighing 8.5kg

The most sever iron collars I know off are made by Parus in Munich. I already wrote a Christmas gift tip about them last year. They are really well made, almost seamless with the integrated lock and so heavy that with some models I would like to recommend consulting your doctor about disc problems before putting them on!

Regardless of what kind of iron collar you are getting when shopping for a joug please watch for deburred edges otherwise severe abrasions can happen!

Functional Collars

Bondage collar

Another quite common type of collars (p.e. from Mr S or Regulation). They basically are like a cuff style restraint just larger to fit around the neck. So very often you can get matching collars to your existing restraint set. Being made for play they come with d-rings to attach the sub to thing or restraint to the neck. Depending on the individual style some are locking which adds a sense of bondage. A pro tip: If you want to fetter a large boot, p.e. an MX boot, and your restraint set’s ankle cuffs are too small try out a collar. Most of the time they are large enough and will serve you well as a boot restraint.

Fetters Posture Collar

Fetters Posture Collar

Posture collar

A posture collar (look at Mr S or Regulation) is a more intense form of the bondage collar. It is quite wide and usually padded, sometimes it also has an anatomically formed chin rest. The effect of this design is that tilting of the head and nodding is getting extremely difficult locking the head in one place. Usually such a collar will also have d-rings and there are locking versions out there.

Chocking Collar

More a breathplay toy than just a simple collar please use this one with caution! This collar is basically a latigo leather belt that is closed by a rolling buckle tightly around the neck. On the other side of the belt is a small metal loop with a roller feature through which the belt exits. In that end a d-ring is added onto which a leash can be attached. If you pull on the leash the collar will tighten and chock the person wearing it.

Shock Collar

Shock collars were originally designed to train dogs. Onto a nylon collar a remote controllable box with two electrode pins is attached. Usually this kind of collars come with different intensity settings. I implore you to take advantage of these different settings and don’t start out too high! The shock boxes are designed to train even dogs which have thick fur and skin. On human skin they can leave burn marks or even damage the nerve system! There are fetish versions out there which are not so powerful but being a power bottom and pain pig myself I can see the temptations of “the real deal” especially when it comes to dog play. Yet still please be careful. Not sexual kink is worth losing your health permanently.

Fetters Wrist-to-Neck Restraints

Fetters Wrist-to-Neck Restraints

Wrist to neck Restraint

Not really just a collar but the leather version of an iron collar with attached restraints. It is a leather lined locking collar onto which two locking wrist restraints are riveted. These rivets allow for some movement around its axis but otherwise the head has to go where the hand wants to be. Especially with added bondage mitts this will leave the sub quite helpless.

Collars Accessories

Especially with the raise of pup and dog play in the last couple of years collar accessories have gained popularity. Most commonly dog tags are used either in their original purpose to mark the dog and write his name on it. But I have also seen a bouquet of different colored tags as hankies. Of cause a dog needs guidance and sometimes restraining so leather leashes become quite popular.

Bondage Hardware Special Part 3 – Connection Hardware

In the first two parts of this Bondage Hardware Special I presented to you means how to attach subs to themselves, each other or furniture. This article is about all the hardware you can use to connect different means. This hardware is especially useful when using Rope Substitutes I talked about last week because unlike rope in most cases you can’t simply tie a knot to connect two or more straps.

Two Versions of Uncertified Aluminum Carabiners

Two Versions of Uncertified Aluminum Carabiners

Before I talk about the different kinds of connection hardware I first need to talk about an important term when it comes to bondage equipment: The breaking load. It measures the amount of force an object can withstand without giving in. The certified breaking load has often two measurements: The static breaking load measures the amount of weight that can hang from an object without giving in, the dynamic breaking load gives the amount of moving (p.e. swinging) weight a piece of hardware can deal with without failing. In most cases the breaking load differs between an open and a closed gate and in which direction the force is applied. The breaking load is measured in Newton (N). One Newton is approx 100g on the earth’s surface. This is why most of the time the breaking load is measure in Kilo Newton (kN) which equates approx. 100kg.

The breaking load is important for liability reasons. If you use uncertified equipment and something happens it is possible that your insurance will not cover for you. Most of the time a breaking load is certified for a specific piece of connection hardware but it states explicitly on the packaging that it is not made for supporting humans. This is a legal grey zone: Yes, theoretically insurance companies can deny your claim if something happens because the hardware was not certified for human usage but I have never heard of such a case.


Carabiners are probably the most often used piece of connection hardware. They are a wire bend into roughly oval or triangular shape with a gate to open it. Usually a spring keeps the gate closed if you don’t apply pressure. They are made out of stainless steel, steel, aluminum, titanium, carbon fiber, composite and plastic.

Carabiners come in many different forms which sadly are not all made for human bondage.

  1. Clips
    An opend Pear Clip where you can see the Sharp Edges of the Gate

    An opend Pear Clip where you can see the Sharp Edges of the Gate

    In Germany this type of carabiner is also called “Hardware Store Carabiner” because you can get them in a hardware store quite cheaply. Despite being used in many playrooms I would not recommend them for BDSM. First of all there is the breaking load. In order to get a static breaking load larger than quarter of a ton which in my opinion is the minimum for fettering humans you have to buy pear clips with the size 90x9mm and up which have been manufactured under DIN 5299. Second their general design is in my opinion bad for gear play. The end of the gate is an arrow-shaped hook that locks into place between two noses. These elements are quite sharp. In a good case they just scratch your gear buy I have seen rubber gear tear from the sharp edges. Despite the disadvantages I will not condemn them. I am not a big fan of them yet due to economically reasons I use them p.e. for attaching chains to attachment points when I am sure that I won’t exceed the breaking load. When using them just keep the potential problems in mind.
    Besides the steel clips there are non-certified aluminum ones which are great for attaching things like weights to parachutes.

  2. Climbing carabiners
    Three Different Versions of Climbing Carabiners with the Bracking Load Printed on them

    Three Different Versions of Climbing Carabiners with the Bracking Load Printed on them

    You don’t have to worry about these problems when you buy climbing carabiners. They are made out of aluminum and thus are light weight. Being made to support human beings even when falling down their dynamic breaking load exceeds 4kN in most cases and thus is more than you will ever need. Because they are designed not to damage rope they have no rough edges so no need to worry about your gear. You can get climbing carabiners in many different designs which fit different needs. They are pricy though but definitely gear you will keep for the rest of your life. A bonus is that unlike the steel clips you can get them in many different colors to fit your personal style.

  3. Panic Snaps
    This kind of carabiners will open even when there is force pulling onto them.

    Left: Saddle Panic Snaps Right: A Sailing Panic Hook

    Left: Saddle Panic Snaps
    Right: A Sailing Panic Hook

    They are used for any situation where you would to have to life the sub in order to the d-ring out of the carabiner p.e. the wrist restraints used for above the head fixation on a St.-Andrews-Cross or any form of suspension bondage.
    Panic snaps come in two varieties: The ones for sailing and the ones for animals. The sailing ones have an eyelet at the bottom and on top a gate that is hold shut with a pin. If you want to release the gate pull out the pin. The ones for animals come in again on two varieties: One for dog leashes and one for holding saddles. The two varieties are hard to distinguish but are naturally quite different in breaking load! So I recommend the sailing panic snaps because they are made out of stainless steel (no problem at piss parties), they are lighter and smaller. If you take the smallest sailing panic snap you will probably need an additional shackle you put through the eyelet in order to make it larger.

  4. Stainless Steel Double Ended Carabiner

    Stainless Steel Double Ended Carabiner

    Double Ended Clips
    As the name of the carabiner already says it has a clip on each side connected by a metal bar. They have a very low breaking load. However I like them a lot especially for beginners. If you get well-made stainless steel ones they have no rough edges so your gear is not in danger. Further more in most situations the subs can open them by himself thus freeing him.

Left: Shackle with Breaking Load of 4.600kn Right: Shackle with a Breaking Load of 0.25 kN

Left: Shackle with Breaking Load of 4.600kn
Right: Shackle with a Breaking Load of 0.25 kN


Another piece of nautical hardware very well fitted for bondage. Shackles are made out of stainless steel wires which are bend either in ¾ of a circle or two parallel straights with a half circle at the end. On the other end there is a pin which is screwed into a threat closing the shackle. Theoretically a shackle can do the same things as a carabiner but through having to twist in order to close it I find it more practical when I want to connect two things more permanently or when an eyelet is too small.

Screw Links

An even more permanent connection are screw links. They are made out of metal wires and come in oval or triangular shapes. On one side is a sheath with a thread on one end. If you unscrew the sheath it will open a recess. Originally designed to connect two ends of a chain it can also be used to create additionally attachment points, extend a chain or enlarge a too small eyelet.

Pad Locks

While theoretically they are able to connect a D-ring to a chain p.e. I would not recommend using pad locks are connection hardware. In most cases the lock will turn that the force pulls on the body and the shackle. Pad locks with not designed to have physical stress in this position so it is likely that the mechanic inside will jam and you will need a bolt cutter to open the lock!

If you buy locks in order to close lockable bondage gear make sure to buy keyed alike locks! Nothing is more stressful when you need to urgently open a lock and can’t find the key. You can get keyed alike locks at every hardware or lock store. When I suggested getting keyed alike locks to some reader questions people were concerned if that would disclose them as perverts. I can assure you this won’t be the case. Asking for keyed alike locks is quite common for example for equipment lockers in gyms.

A Paw Rigging Plate

A Paw Rigging Plate

Rigging Plates & Stainless Steel Rings

Rigging plates is another piece of professional climbing equipment used to organize and attach different ropes together. They are plates made out of aluminum and sometimes out of stainless steel with holes for ropes. The most common form is the paw with a big hole and three to six smaller ones on top. But tor really elaborate designes you can get rigging plates with more than 20 holes. I use them for organizing my carabiners for suspension bondage so I just need to pull up the plate. A more profane usage scenario is attaching carabiners for a hogtie.

There are large stainless steel rings sometimes with a cross or a triscele in the middle out there called rope rings which fulfill the same purpose though with less organization. If you just want to create a hogtie or don’t want to suspend someone from the ring a stainless steel cockring also does the trick.

Zip Ties

An easy and disposable item for connecting bondage equipment are zip ties. They are plastic bands with a lock on one end and texture on the other end. Pull the textured end through the lock and the connection can’t be opened again. If you get professional ones you can get a breaking load up to 80kg per zip tie. So it only takes three or four to create a strong connection, but please bear in mind that the combined strength is lower than the individual strength added up.

There are versions out there that can be opened up and reused. They are not strong enough for bondage purposes. The same applies to Velcro cable ties!

A Hoist for one or two Ropes

A Hoist for one or two Ropes


Not really connection hardware but since I don’t know where to put it else and I store mine along with my carabiners I will shortly talk about hoists here. Hoists are barrels mounted into a case with an eyelet on top. They are certified for being able to bear different amounts of maximum weight. Hoists are useful for suspension bondage: You can create the bondage while the sub lies securely on the floor and later pull him up. There are different types of hoists with up to six barrels. I made the experience than more than three barrels are not practical because the rope will tangle.

So much about gear and hardware to tie people up. Next week will be all about accessories that can be useful to make a bondage scene successful and as little messy as possible.

Bondage Hardware Special Part 2 – Rope Substitutes

This is the second part of the Bondage Hardware Special. While in the first part I talked about Rope in this text will be about all the different means you can use to fetter someone if you don’t want to deal with rope.

Tension Belts

Originally these belts were designed to secure cargo but are as equally good for securing human beings. They consist of a nylon strap which is attached to a lock through which you pull the strap in order to shorten and tighten it. Sometimes at the part of the belt where the lock is attached there is a loop through which you can attach a carabineer. You can get tension belts for fairly little money however I do not recommend getting the cheapest ones. Most of the time with cheap ones the end of the nylon strap is not welded so it starts to fray. Also more expensive ones are certified for a specific weight. When fettering a sub or using for suspension bondage I would not recommend for going anything lower than 200kg certified. While you can use tension belts on bare skin I would not recommend it. The edges of the nylon straps are sharp and the strap itself can create rope burn if the sub moves too quickly too long under them.

Bungee Cords

Another cargo securing device that can be used for bondage. They are made out of two hooks connected by a flexible cord covered in nylon fabric. Because they were designed not to secure heavy cargo you will need several bungee cords to achieve the same sense of bondage as you would with a single tension belt. However in this property lies the beauty of bungee cords. Even one single cord with produce down force that can be easily overpowered. But if you attached several ones the sub can struggle against the in his mind weak cords, maybe lift himself a bit but will ultimately fail. Theoretically you can use bungee cords for suspension bondage but I would not advise it. It is too hard to figure out how many you need in order to securely hang someone from the ceiling. Another thing to keep in mind is that the flexible cord over time will stretch and age so you have to check and replace the cords on a regular basis.

A Pair of Police Velcro Restraints

A Pair of Police Velcro Restraints

Velcro Straps

When I talk about Velcro straps I do not mean the cable binders you can buy for next to nothing at the office store but industrial grade Velcro straps that are at least 3cm wide; narrower ones cut too easily into the body. Velcro is again a great mindfuck material: It is regarded as easily to open but once you attach a long enough part of the hard side to the soft side it is impossible for a bound person to break free. You can quickly and easy secure a person quite well with Velcro straps especially when you use Velcro restraints made for the authorities. They come with a loop which makes tightening the straps easy. Doing so will require some practice because the two sides of the straps will quickly attach to each other leaving you with a twine you need to untangle first before.

Please only put the soft side onto the body (if you don’t want that extra sensation agonizing) because the hard side can create painful abrasions. Even the wider ones I would not advise to use for suspension.

The Mr S Hobble Belt

The Mr S Hobble Belt


The probably most widely available secure mean of bondage in the household. It can be made out of a variety of materials so in order to test if it is made for bondage check if the edges are hard and can harm the skin. Than close the belt, hang it onto a secure anchor point and hand yourself onto it. It is doesn’t break and the claps doesn’t deform, you can use it for bondage. Otherwise you need a new belt. There are belts out there which holes all around the belt which is handy. Other belts come with added bondage features like this one from Mister B that turns into four restraints, this one from Mr S with four D-rings or their Hobble Belt which is a restraint.


Chains come in a number of varieties. The only ones I would recommend for bondage are twisted link and rolo, either in torus or in circle, patterns. Both patterns are smooth enough to be used on bare skin and offer enough space in the links to attach rope, carabineers or additional chains. Today most chains are welded instead of forged so there is a weldseam on every link. Sometimes these seams can be have sharp edges so before you use chain on bare skin check the links for such spots.

A Runner Holding a Chain in Place

A Runner Holding a Chain in Place


Originally made for climbing these are nylon straps which are very securely sowed at the ends to create a loop. You can’t adjust the length of them. I mostly use them to create anchor points using a cow hitch. They are also good for suspension bondage if you want a similar length at all attachments points.

Shoe Laces

Another item that can be found in any household but I would only recommend softer and wider shoe laces like fat laces for bondage. Any other can cut circulation and are thus dangerous. Also: Most shoe laces are not designed to withstand too much force so I would not recommend using them for any bondage where much resistance is anticipated but they are great for genital bondage.

Tape & Saran Wrap

When you watch movies tape seems to be the bondage material of choice for thugs these days. And to a certain extend you can use tape for bondage however I would not advise it. First of all getting the tape of when there is body hair under it can be quite painful. It also takes some practice to wrap it right: Too tight and it will cut circulation, too loose and you can easily get out. Also, most glues used on tape, like the iconic duct tape, is water-soluble. So it the sub sweats too much or if you attempt to do a tape gag which is often seen in movies you are at a loss.

These problems do not occur with saran wrap. However you need several layers to make it strong enough to withstand some struggle. If you want to use these means for bondage I would recommend doing a saran wrap base layer and add tape to that. When choosing the saran wrap be careful what you buy. There is wrap that shrinks which requires special surveillance of the sub when you use it, especially for mummification!

In the next part of this series called “Connection Hardware” I will talk about the nifty little things which connect different bondage means without knots.

Christmas Gift Tip II – Steel Bondage

With 8.5kg their heaviest Collar with added Bondage Points closed with a padlock

With 8.5kg their heaviest Collar with added Bondage Points closed with a padlock

One of the four Christmas gift tips every year is dedicated to the extremes of BDSM: Oversized ass toys, extreme pain or almost inhuman bondage. This year the latter is the case with recommending the Parus steel bondage toys and especially the Plug Steel Bondage system.

Parus Extra Heavy Steel Wrist & Ankle Restraints

Parus Extra Heavy Steel Wrist & Ankle Restraints

Parus is quite small store in Munich that has a well-earned reputation of making very high quality leather gear. They only use European hide which has been tanned using highest standard to keep you from getting allergies. I own a harness from them which I love and I soon hope to be getting restraints and a hood from them. But leather isn’t their only field of expertise. They are not quite as famous for it as their leather works but they excel at making steel bondage.

Overview of the Plug System with Leather Covered Restraints and Connection Chains

Overview of the Plug System with Leather Covered Restraints and Connection Chains

Even though they also sell relatively light steel bondage you can get in most places most of their gear is on the heavier side really making you fell the weight of the restraints. Some of my really bondage obsessed friends own steel restraints from Parus and they say that almost nothing makes them feel more bound DOWN than the thick and heavy steel from Parus. Another nice feature it the integrated barrel lock so that you don’t have to deal with padlocks dangling around. Into locking posts of the barrel lock you can put metal plates onto which you can mount chains or use as bondage points. If you can deal with a heavy duty padlock they offer especially heavy collars with welded on bondage points.

The Stainless Steel Bondage Belt with welded Bondage Points

The Stainless Steel Bondage Belt with welded Bondage Points

The restraints are made is painstakingly accurate so there are no sharp burrs, all edges are round that despite the weight they can be worn for a long period of time without causing unintended bruises. The majority of the toys are made out of stainless steel so allergies are not an issue. If you are still concerned they offer some pieces wrapped in their high quality leather.
To be honest the restraints don’t come cheap starting at 349€ for a belt and ending at 650€ with leather covered wrist cuffs. But if you take into consideration the amount of metal and time it takes to create this master pieces and the feeling of being bound and dragged down by metal (a full restraint set from collar to ankles weights over 20kg and it isn’t the heaviest set…) they are worth the money!

E-Stim System Torpedo Large

Vendor: E-Stim Systems

The E-Stim System Torpedo Lage

The E-Stim System Torpedo Lage

I have reviewed three other electrodes of the premium collection from E-Stim system 1 ½ years ago. When I was in Munich three weeks ago I stumbled about this electrode and got a good deal on it so I’ve bought it. But since there are some important difference to the electrodes I have reviewed the last time and since anal plugs are an important e-stim toy I am writing another review about this great toy.


In the last year they have changed nothing on the great build quality: The head and base are made out of aluminum, the screw connecting the top and the bottom is stainless steel and the plastic is quite sturdy. They are so convinced by their build quality that they give you a live long quality and having been using these kind of electrodes extensively for over 2 years I have to agree. Even the plastic hasn’t aged yet I there is a drop of bitterness with the combination of the aluminum head and the stainless steel screw: Since the screw is harder than the material the thread is cut into, if you tighten the screw too tight too often the thread will get a bit dull. But I guess if you send the electrode in, the thread can be easily cut again.

Speaking of screw and thread, for easy cleaning this toy is made out of five individual pieces: Through the base a hole is drilled. Into this hole a plastic insulator is put through which a screw is put. Onto this screw you put another piece of plastic which forms the neck and ontop you screw the head of the electrode. Into the base and the connecting threat holes for 4mm banana plugs are drilled. The holes are far enough apart for using low profile plugs so you can comfortably sit on this plug.

The Electrode Disassambled into its Five Parts

The Electrode Disassambled into its Five Parts

Both head and base had a diameter of 5cm, the neck with 2.5cm is only half that thick. The total length of the toy is 13.5cm with an insertable length about 10cm. The electrode weighs 555g.

The stainless steel surfaces comes in a standard brushed finish which gives it a very sleek, modern and sleek appearance. When you order the electrodes directly from E-Stim’s website you can also order all electrodes in a polished version for a 10% premium. It is hard for me to recommend a surface treatment: As a jeweler sales assistant I know that a polished surface won’t show scratches as easily as a brushed one (If you are interested to know why, send me an e-mail), but personally I prefer the look of the brushed stainless steel. And if you are not ordering your toys directly from their website you will most likely only have the option of getting the brushed finishes.

Another neat thing is that the toy comes in a nifty and stylish black box that can be adjusted length-wise. So if you don’t store your e-stim toys in them but display them proudly you can store other stuff like clamps in there. I use one of the larger boxes for band-aids and a friend of mine a thinner one for sounds.

Detail of a connection with a 4mm Banana Plug Cable

Detail of a connection with a 4mm Banana Plug Cable

Playing with the toy

The first part of this section is a slightly enhanced copy and paste from the old review because I have little to add to this.

First an advice how to read this section: I will only discuss how the physical properties influence the sensation. The sensation itself depends very much on your e-stim box and the program you select.

When choosing the right electrode before play there are three important things to keep in mind:

  1. The Material: Unlike other soft materials like vinyl or silicone most anal toys are made out off stainless steel will not yield! So if you can barely fit a 38mm vinyl plug into your ass taking the Magnum Medium for example will at least take some training.
  2. The Handling: A lot of people put condoms over their anal toys when switching partners. The condom’s latex layer will at best alter the way the current flows thus might produce unwanted effects, at worst no current will flow at all. But because the metal is easily cleaned and disinfected this isn’t a big issue if you clean your toy thoroughly after using it on one partner. The best way of cleaning this toy is to disassemble it, put it into hot water with a bit of detergent added to it. Scrub the parts with a soft brush, rinse the water off and let the parts dry. Once they are, spray your favorite disinfection spray on them and assamble them again once dried.
  3. The Lubrication: When it comes to lube I would always recommend water-based lube. The glycerin in the lube will help the current flow from the metal to the skin. A thick layer of silicone lube can produced unwanted effect.
    There are specialized electro lubes out there but in my opinion they are overrated. For my sessions I use Swiss Navy water based lube. It keeps it gliding properties for a long period of time and transmits current very well.

As written here the larger the mass and contact area of the electrode the smoother the sensation. Since this is the heaviest and larges anal bi-pole I own as expected the sensation was silky smooth. But unlike the other electrodes the mass difference between the base and the head is so large that the sensation is nearly only felt at the base. It was a weird, hard to describe feeling putting the stroke program on. Usually this created a fucking sensation. This time… it was not bad just different than expacted.

The Black Packaging the Toy comes in

The Black Packaging the Toy comes in

Due to the size of this plug and the fact that metal doesn’t give in unlike most other material used for making anal toys I recommend this toy only to people with well-trained holes. Since the head is dull on top this electrode won’t enter as easily as a Magnum, yet the solid connection between base and head the toy can be pushed in quite easily. Being over half a kilogram heavy, keep in mind that gravity has quite some grip on this toy when walking around. So if your ass is trained too well there is some danger for your precious hardwood floor. But the size and weight makes this toy also interesting just as an anal toy without any stimulation. There is no give in the toy and the connection so when you move around this heavy toy will be noticed hitting your prostate.

Of cause you can also use the electrode also as a monopole. Just plug one banana plug into the anal electrode and the other one onto another electrode, a pin wheel or a rubber loop for example.

Conslusion: High quality anal bi-pole for anal experienced bottoms
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Very smooth sensation Material combination can dull screw thread E-Stim System £79
Outstanding build quality and materials
Easy to clean
Lifetime guarantee


Uberkinky Rounded Handle Leather Flogger

Vendor: Uberkinky

The guys from Uberkinky send me this flogger from their flogger collection to review and I took it as a welcomed invitation to get some decent flogging action again after a stressful semester.


The first thing you notice when you unpack this toy is the rich smell of leather. It comes for its 24 tails which are about 55cm long and are angle cut at the end. They are made out of two-tone calf leather. The bottom is made out of soft red suede while the top is a little bit harder black calf hide which for my taste is a bit over-dressed. But this is just a personal taste: If you like a bit more sting let it stay this way. If you enjoy a bit more natural and softer touch just carefully (!!!) use some leather oil on the surface of the tails.

Detail of the Two Color Tails with Angle Cut

Detail of the Two Color Tails with Angle Cut

The tails are attached to the handle by a classical woven leather knot. The handle is made out of stainless steel and is 17cm long from which 12cm are a simple round bar and the last 5cm are an a bit elaborated round tip. Onto this tip a leather loop is riveted.

Playing with it

When I first used this flogger in a scene I was surprised how well it performed for the price: The tails fly really well and due to all the tails having the same length you can hit precisely. With the medium weight this flogger is quite versatile. From a good sting through the angle cut tail ends to some decent thud this flogger covers a good range of sensation. If you practice a bit (and maybe consult in advance Uberkinky’s Beginner’s Guide to Flogging) you can have an entire scene from warm-up to an agonizing finally with this flogger. The leather is hard enough to leave some very subtle welts that fade within a few hours the longest and colors the sub’s back quite well.

Detail of the Rivet that Attached the Loop to the Handle

Detail of the Rivet that Attached the Loop to the Handle

Such a scene with just this flogger is also possible because it is very well balanced despite the heavy stainless steel. All test tops theoretically flogged extensively and continuously with this toy without tiring out their wrist. Practically what almost ruins this toy for an extensive flogging scene is the way the loop is attached to the handle. Due to the loop being a bit small and inflexible when you put the loop around the wrist and grip the handle bar it limits the movement of your wrist which makes precise flogging very difficult. Another common way of holding the flogger is putting the tip at the end of the handle between either between forefinger and middle finger. The huge rivet and thick leather strap of the loop makes this position uncomfortable. At the moment I am looking at a method to get rid of the rivet and just attach a leather loop around the base of the tip. Because otherwise this flogger is awesome value for money.

Detail of the Knot

Detail of the Knot

Besides the pain inducing aspect this flogger has also some sensual qualities. Once the sub’s back is nicely warmed and red from the flogging just let the cool steel tip of the flogger wander over the lightly bruised skin to make the sub shiver. This effect can be enhanced if you cool the tip in advance a bit with an ice cube. For an even lighter scene let the sub lay down onto his belly, blindfold him and just let the tips of the tails lightly travel over his back.

Conslusion: Versatile flogger with great value for money with a handling problem
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Versatile sensations Loop attachement makes handling difficult Uberkinky £39,99
Great Balance  Leather on top of tails could fell more natural
Good build quality
Great leather smell
Great value for money

Christmas Gift Tip 2: Bigger is Better

One man’s pain is another man’s pleasure. Or in this case: One man’s playroom decoration is another man’s favorite toy.

Being in marketing I know that one that especially clothes for women are sold with the argument “just buy something that doesn’t fit and make it your goal to lose enough weight to get into it.” So today’s tips are for a number of different groups: For the people looking already for a new year resolution to train their ass or balls so much that by the end of next year they can take one of the toys. For the experienced size connoisseur who looks for something new to play with. And for the people who want to add a striking piece to their playroom which sparks a conversation and maybe an interesting session.

I have been asked quite often if I knew an ass lock that is truly stuffing and comfortable to wear. The only one on the market I know off is the Keepburning Hoolalass. They have a number of attachments but the Hydro with a diameter of 70mm should be enough to even bring a greed hole pleasure when walking around wearing it.


Hydro 39,90€


Hoolalass Black 12,90€

I might be doing a review of the Hoolalass system in the next year if I can get my hands on one. So if you are interested to be kept updated follow me on Twitter and check my website on a regular basis.

Also from the guys of Keepburning comes the Finland Boll. With a diameter of nearly 11cm at the glans it is one of the largest dildos with a natural look. Sold either in classic black, flesh color or blue it is a great gift for any fistee working at home to finally get the second fist up his ass.

Finland Boll

Finland Boll 199€

Nearly as big but a whopping half kilogram heavier is the Estim Decimator plug. As you know I really love the design of their premium electrodes. And this is just the right one if you want to enjoy the feeling of getting fucked by electricity even after a heavy fisting scene – or if you like me are just looking for a stylish, kinky paper weight/ desk ornament.


E-Stim Decimater £325

Another thing I like are stretched and bouncy balls. I love my ball stretcher because it fits my somewhat middle of the road balls just right. But if you are a fan of low hangers this ball stretcher from Mister B is the one to get. It stretchers your balls 12cm and with it weight of over 2kg the swing momentum of this stainless steel toy must be incredible somewhere between delightful agony and excruciating ecstasy.


Mister B Stainless Steel 120mm Ball Stretcher 199€

If you love low hangers but are not quite there yet, getting the Mandax Ultimate Ball Stretching System from Mister B is the way to approach your project for 2015. The system has three adjustable bars which will stretch your balls up to 18cm. A nice added feature is the it is equipped with a 2mm and a 4mm socket to attach to an electro box. It is only a monopole but with a Y-adapter and something from E-Stim systems premium range, you will have loads of fun.

Stretching Set

Mandax Ultimate Ball Stretching System 169€

Mister B Iron Impact Toy Collection

The Riding Crop Style Slapper of the Mister B Iron Collection

The Riding Crop Style Slapper of the Mister B Iron Collection

A couple of weeks ago I visited Demask in Dortmund – one of my favorite kinky stores – in order to find something to make leather on a mask a bit softer. I quickly got some leather oil but what caught my attention were the impact toys of the Iron Collection from Mister B. All handles in this collection are made out of brushed stainless steel giving them a quite impressive look. It also gives them a nice weight and very high quality feel.

The Small Paddle of the Mister B Iron Collection

The Small Paddle of the Mister B Iron Collection

Just imagining the feeling of the paddle’s cold steel shaft touching the red glowing spanked ass of a sub gave me goosebumbs. The Iron collection features five different toys made out of leather: A riding whip, a small slapper in form of a riding crop, a small and a large paddle and a cane. All toys but the cane have a firm and a padded side so you can choose between a more thuddy or a more stingy sensation.

The Riding Whip of the Mister B Iron Collection

The Riding Whip of the Mister B Iron Collection

Especially the riding whip might be interesting for you if you look for a thuddier and more easily to handle one than last week’s review.

On Mister B’s website you can also find matching floggers and cat-o-nine-tails in the same design which I haven’t had in my hand yet.

The toys costs between 79€ and 129€. Keeping the high quality and unique appearance in mind the prices are more than fair, especially compared to other products on the market.

Bon4 Metal Chastity Cage Regular

Vendor: Mister B

The Cage locked with a 51mm Ring attached

The Cage locked with a 51mm Ring attached

Chastity is one of the big things in (gay) BDSM. Handing over the control of one’s dick and orgasms to a top is one of the biggest sacrifices a sub can do without interfering too much with his day to day schedule. This is what makes chastity devices so intriguing.

Despite its popularity I haven’t done a chastity device review yet. I owned two: A CB6000 and a cheap steel one. The first was too small for my soft dick, the second had too sharp edges and without a proper and in-depth testing I am not writing reviews. So I was pleasantly surprised when Mister B sent me the new Bon4 Steel Chastity Cage size Regular to review. And I was more pleasantly surprised when I found out that it actually fits my soft dick.

Detail of the Locking Pin with Pad Lock

Detail of the Locking Pin with Pad Lock


The construction of this chastity device is fairly standard besides its being made out of brushed stainless steel. There is a cage which is connected to a ring behind your balls which keeps it from falling off. The cage is approx. 8,5cm long with a diameter of 3,7cm for the shaft and approx. 5cm for the glans. Between the cage and the ring there are two pegs with 1,2cm length to keep both parts at a comfortable distance and adding up to a total usable length of 9,7cm. The chastity device comes with four rings with the following diameters: 39mm, 44mm, 47mm and 51mm. With this variety the device should fit most dicks. If you have a smaller one you can always take a look at the small version for 149€.

The device has a few unique properties due to the material. The rings have a hinge at the bottom which makes putting it on quite easily. I have also heard a lot of reports from friends who’s dicks broke plastic/ silicone chastity devices over time due to material fatigue. This is defiantly not going to happen with this device. The build quality of the toy I have gotten is superb but if there should be any rough or uncomfortable spaces the toy comes with a little sheet of fine sandpaper and tape to mend these spots. There is also a small lock in black bag the toy comes in.

Playing with it

Detail of the hinged ring

Detail of the hinged ring

It is kind of hard to write this section. The chastity cage isn’t really a toy, it is a control device made to be worn 24/7. With the high build quality and the material which will withstand moisture and physical stress the Bon4 Metal Chastity Cage is up to the challenge. But in the end more than even any piece of gear it has to fit perfectly to fulfill its purpose. A too loose ring and you can get out of it easily or it will simply fall off when walking. A too tight ring will make wearing it for a long time uncomfortable or can even cause damage to your genitals due to cut circulation. So even more than with other toys I urge you to try it out if it fits you. If you have problems with the ring sizes Bon4 offers addition ones with 36mm and 56mm diameter. The lock is quite a high quality one but still it is more a psychological barrier for the sub. A skilled lock pick will sooner and a desperate sub will later figure out how to open it with a pair of paperclips. For checkable security I recommend using numbered plastic locks.

One of the greatest problems with chastity cages is hygiene. Most devices only have small holes for pissing and some for water because materials like plastic doesn’t allow for bigger ones without compromising stability. Yet again stainless steel doesn’t have this problem so the case basically consists out of holes with some beams which makes hygiene not problem. You simply shower wearing the cages and you are all set. The material also opens the door for some torture possibilities. Since metal picks up temperature quite easily most subs fund mild ice and fire play… interesting. And I probably don’t need to tell you that steel is conductive. Of cause there is a downside: The metal makes the cage way heavier than the plastic ones. My testees had very different opinions on that topic: Some found it uncomfortable, some loved the constant pull and movement on the balls.

Everything you get when you order the Bon4 Metal Chastity Cage

Everything you get when you order the Bon4 Metal Chastity Cage


This review covers only the “technical” aspects of the Bon4 Metal chastity cage. Chastity never has quite been my kink, partly because I was frustrated with the cages not fitting my dick. I also didn’t find the thought of handing control of my dick over to a top tempting. For this review I have worn the device on and off for a couple of days and was genuinely impressed how much I liked it. Yet a true long term test has yet to be done. A top friend of mine has challenged me to a week of chastity which will begin this Sunday. You can expect a small blog entry every day about my experiences and problems with the cage. But a week doesn’t say much about true long term usability. I have been looking for a sub to be locked up for quite some time and as soon as I have found one and put into the device for an extended period of time there will be a follow-up review.

Conslusion: High quality and robust chastity cage
Pro Cons Where to get Price
High build quality Heavier than other chastity devices Mister B 159€
Regulation £ 119,99
Sturdy material Can be a bit more visual under the clothes than other devices
Good hygiene