Wine Rack Vertical as Dildo Storage

Life is what is happening while you make other plans. For the start of the new review seasons, I planned a very different post. But on Friday while cleaning up the playroom I tweeted about a simple new addition: A wine rack to store realistic dildos. This simple, quick & dirty tweet sparked SO much interest, that I decided to write about the apparently topic of interest.

I have bought a wine rack for soft, realistic dildos mostly from SquarePeg. Due to the size and soft firmness, they do not stand up or fall over easily. Lying down they take up a lot of space so I was looking for an ergonomically and economically storage solution which I hope to have found in this wine rack. As you will read it is far from perfect yet until now the best solution I have come up with. If you have a better one, please get in touch!

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For easy cleaning and to avoid reaction between potential surface treatment of wood for example, I was looking for a plastic wine rack. This particular one is from mDesign and I ordered for 23.99€ off Amazon.de. I chose the light grey over the black one because at roughly 55€ the black was way more than I would spend on such an item. And since I indeed to put it inside a metal IKEA Hyllis shelf, the color actually fit.

Silicone is a very sticky material (flint on toy pics anyone?)! Unlike wine bottles, the dildos will stick to the rack, making rather the rack more than the dildo. Because of this I used zip ties to fix the rack to the shelf. This is far from perfect, does not stop all movement but in the end is sufficient. I briefly considered Velcro ties instead of plastic zip ties but neglected the idea for easier cleaning of plastic ones. There were very fancy and sleek racks out there. But since they do not have even improvised anchor points as my new one has, I did not buy them. Before you chose a rack, make should you have a plan how to connect the rack to the shelf in which it stands.

Especially soft silicone creases easily. Since I have bought this rack primarily for me SquarePeg toys, I accept that due to the weight of the toys and the edges of the rack and the zip ties, they will get creases. Most silicone toys will get creases over time (like when throwing a bunch of them in a bucket during play), but if you want to keep your toys in perfect mint condition this storage solution is not for you. Because of this wine racks made out of bent wire at the front and the back are not suitable! The entire weight of the toy will rest on these two small points which will then dig deep into the material. Also, the toy will slack and stick to the toy below making them impossible to pull out.BeinBeing a wine rack, it is also only a solution for roughly cylindrical toys (aka realist dildos) roughly the diameter of a wine bottle (up to Ø80mm) without too big base that aren’t too long. Just for fun I put a Mr Hankey’s Toys Lampwick Uncut XXL (too long, base blocks slot below), a Bad Dragon Terra XL (knot it too big, base blocks surrounding slots) and a Bad Dragon Austin (knot is too big and to heavy so it has to be balanced not to fall out) inside it and I think you see the problem. This is especially annoying since while Terra stands very sturdily on its base, the first and the last toy can almost only be stored lying down, taking up a lot of space yet are too big for the rack.

The same accounts for plugs! An Oxballs Pig-Hole XXL just fits into the rack; a Pig-Hole FF is too big already. The Topped Toys Gape Keeper fits up to size 100 or the SquarePeg Acorn up to L. But due to the stickyness, it is considerably easier to just store them standing upright in a shelf than storing them vertically in a rack like this one.

This is my wine rack fully stacked with head-heavy realistic dildos. As you can see, the bases overlap making them a bit difficult to pull out. Also, unlike on a shelf the top cannot see the dildo so he has to know which base belongs to which dildo. So this solution is far from perfect! But it is a huge improvement over trying to balance the dildos standing up and a number of them falling out when just grabbing one.

I hope this little review/ guide help you make up your mind what is the most effective and accessible storage for your dildos. Because after all: A toy you cannot reach easily will seldom be used!

What to Gift ToyTorture?

Roll call! Who wants to get me something for my birthday? Nobody? Well, if anyone should change their mind, you still have six weeks to get me something 😉

The House of Bascanio Padded & Locking M5 Muzzle

Seriously, question I get asked most in online chats or conversations in bars or clubs is “You have tested everything! Is there any sex or kink toy you still need or want?” The easy part first: Need? Most certainly not! As much as I am fascinated by cleverly designed kink toys, with a bag of pervertables I can recreate the same effect though not the feeling! But because I am fascinated by cleverly designed kink toys there is a neverending lists of toys I would love to add to my collection. The selection is highly subjective because these are the toys I find personally intriguing without considering review requests. Before I write my top 5ish toys, please note: I could write an entire volume of anal toys I want. So I am leaving these toys out.

The Many, Many D-rings on the M5 Muzzle

House of Bascanio M5 Muzzle

If you have been following my bondage reviews you know, the only thing that is better than a D-ring are MOAR D-rings. The M5 Muzzle takes this to the max. How many D-rings can you fit on a head? Apparently the answer is “At least 15!” Are those all necessary? Most certainly not! Judging from my experience, 9 is the max to get the same level of fettering. Maybe even 7 are enough. But who cares? The ingenuity and craftsmanship that have cumulated into the creation into this unique piece of bondage gear in combination with the thick padding make me want to add this muzzle to my collection and put on CERTAIN subs (you know who you are).

Since the M5 Muzzle is such an extravagant piece of bondage gear, I am actually unsure about the design. Would I like it two-tone with red padding? Or just black with red stitching? But I guess in the end the practical pervert  in me would win and go for an all black I can easily clean and treat with black leather oil.

The Mr S Leather Savage Sucks Hood

And apparently my personal taste coincides with you, my reader’s taste. Looking at my little Excel sheet there are literally hundreds of review requests for this toy. So gifting me the toys would be kind of a public service.

Mr S Leather Savage Sucks and Asylum Hood

The Savage Sucks is the perfect addition to the M5 Muzzle! Dehumanizes the wearer, turn him into a multi-layer leather gimp. And if you need his tongual service, unlock the muzzle, let him serve and lock his mouth up again.

The Mr S Leather Asylum Hood

Being perforated it also is the perfect piece of gear for all those subs of me who wants or need to be anonymous. To shatter a common misconception: Even dom tops enjoy the occasional endorphin rush of being handled and played with. Sadly due to Fans-sites their livelihood depends on their image of being pure dom sadists and thus cannot be seen in public riding the pleasurable waves of pain and degradation. A perforated hood they can see through but nobody can see their face would be a great tool for those special Quälgeist visits.

To break with my rule of only five toys, here is another piece of Mr S headgear which I’d love (or hate) to have: The Asylum Hood. Hoods have never been my favorite kind of toy. I simply love to see faces react to induced sensations, lick sweat of the neck of have my ears nibbled. But I also like to have my head played with while intricate things are done. That’s why I love the Asylum Muzzle so much (along with the Bishop Head Harness). A full hood with the same features would be awesome! Just the thought of having soft, rich smelling leather hug my skull while the top adjust the many roller buckles is giving me a boner!

The Only Rubber Catsuite I would Consider

Regulation Streak Side Panel Catsuit

This item is a shocker: Fetish GEAR on ToyTorture.com? A rubber cat suit for ToyTorture? Especially a neck entry one?!

Calm down! Let me explain. Yes, to be honest: Full coverage does not do much for me. For me the tension of natural skin meeting artificial rubber is a very strong kink! Thus black cat suits are just boring for me. Especially should entry ones with their smooth chest. But a guy needs options and should broaden his horizon. So I might give a rubber cat suit a try with this one.

Maybe accessorize with the rubber bulldog harness, biceps restraints for added texture, a nice pair of sneakers and Rubber@Easter LAB can come. Naturally I would choose a black suit with red panels and strips to really pop when I am lying in the dark in the wellness hammock.

Small and Evil – The Fetters Headtrap

Since I am a Blackstyle Medium, what should I choose with Regulation?

Fetters Headtrap

Why this toy is so great, I have already written in the Christmas gift tip. Why I need this toy is easy: My playroom only looks big. With the slopes of the roof it actually has a very small usable footprint. So I need toys and furniture to make the best out of the space.

And for the Headtrap I have already found the perfect spot to store it in between use – or to store my sub away. Sadly, I have not yet had a chance to play with this piece of bondage furniture personally. But from the looks of it, it can probably easily been turned into a spanking horse. Or for party situation, it would be a perfect parking sport for the designated piss gimp.

A Basket of Oxballs Toys

In the past year, Oxballs has released so many great toys I am dying to add to my collection. But  before we come to those:

Oxballs, release the Ergo Plug Monster – NOW! I volunteer as a production sample testee!

The Oxballs Pig-Hole Squeal – Big and Textured, just what I like

In all seriousness: The shape of the Ergo Plug always looked tempting but even in its largest size, it was too small for most ass pigs. The first time I have heard about a Monster size to be in development was in late July/ early August of 2020. Sadly, developing new molds for silicone toys is not as easy as one might think. So cognitively I can understand why it took so long. But anally I crave to get stuFFed with this toy, so I hope Oxballs releases it rather sooner than later. And in rather firmer than softer silicoen.

The Matching Airhole Plug – More Texture

Speaking of soft silicone: The Pig-Hole Squeal and Airhole Plug. The first in black, the latter in red. Perfect combination for a texture junkie like me! And would be a much needed addition to my collection of six Oxballs tunnel plugs. I have already cleared the space in my toy shelve for three new Oxballs anal toys so I am waiting.

If you have been following this website since its earlieast beginnings in the fall of 2012 you know how much love I have had for ball stretching toys. Especially from Oxballs! Stretchers, stackers, slings, splitters – you name it. I have it, I love them. Or rather loved them. Having lost my left testicle last summer and waiting for getting a prosthesis some time this summer, I don’t know if I will ever love these toys like I have before.

… and the matching Vibration Bullets

So these toys represent hope for me! Hope that my beloved lowhangers will look and at least in the hands of another man feel the same! Hope that with their weight the skin will extend again despite the big scar and make my junk as bulky again as it was yesteryear.

The Squeeze is one of my fav ball stratchers because it combines tug with stretch. Adding weights to it or vibration? Count me in!

Is it a ball stretcher? Is it a parachute? It is both!

But I might need some training until I can fit the Squeeze again and here the Tug comes in. I already loved Oxballs Slung though it was a bit cumbersome to put on. This looks better, more fun and screams for “Put me on while lying in a sling, connect me to a thread above the spread bar and let a weight dangle!” This is very specific for my playroom layout but since this is my personally wish list, I shamelessly force my fantasies on you!

 

So much for my dream gifts for what we in Germany call half-round birthday. Let’s see what I will be unwrapping Friday morning in six weeks.

Fetters Portable Bondage Board

The Fetters Portable Bondage Board

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

The product name of this piece of bondage equipment is pretty descriptive: It is a bondage board that can be folded in the middle.

First, let’s look at its bottom. Two wide and sturdy hinges keep both sides aligned with each other even during heavy play and fold together smoothly. In order not to damage the precious hardwood floor in Fidelio-passworded play mansions four thick rubber bumpers are stapled onto the cloth-lined bottom (if you are too young for this reference, watch “Eyes Wide Shut”). On each side of the top there is a powerful neodymium magnet keeping both sides securely together when folded. In order to carry the board around comfortably, a piece of nylon strap is mounted on the middle of each side. On one side a nice stainless steel Fetters badge is screwed between the two ends of the carrying loop. Folded together the board is 53.5cm tall, 60cm wide and about 10cm deep. Unfolded you naturally get a bondage surface of 60x107cm.

The D-rings Folded Up

The body of the board is made out of sturdy wood boards padded with thick firm yet comfortable foam. The play surface on the top is either lined with leather or a material called Rubluxe which is a rubberized fabric that is both oil- and waterproof. For fettering D-rings with an inner width of 39mm, inner height of 32mm and almost absurd wire strength of 6mm are used. They are mounted to the board putting each below a wide and thick piece of bridle leather which is hold in place with four screws. There are six D-rings on each side and one at each end. So in total there are a whopping 14 bondage points around the board.

Due to all this heavy duty materials and workmanship the board weighs 10kg.

The Footprint of the Folded Bondage Board

Playing with the Portable Bondage Board

Most subs I have introduced to this piece of bondage equipment where initially skeptical. Could such relatively compact piece of gear work as a secure basis for bondage? The torsional stiffness of the hinges, the thick and sturdy boards and massive D-rings which are massively mounted onto the board in combination with a tight fettering allow for little wiggle room. So despite being portable and relatively light, it is a good, secure piece of bondage furniture! These are good news especially for those who travel a lot or have to store away their play gear below a bed or in a wardrobe once the session is over. One of my testees bought his one especially for play parties and cons. He likes to play public but wants a piece of furniture of his own when the provided play furniture is occupied or when there is only little space, for example on the side lines of a mosh.

Most people will probably only use the Portable Bondage Board folded open. But even folded together and using only one side, it is a nifty piece of play furniture. Due to the smaller footprint, it easily fits in the corner of a room and thus works perfectly as a slave parking spot. Despite resting on padding, there is little rocking or movement so a sub can safely stand on it, his ankles and maybe even balls being tied to the D-rings. But the area of just half a board is even large enough for a sub to kneel down onto. This way you can of course tie the ankles, thighs and wrists to the boards for an even more intense bondage scenario.

The Fetters Badge and Left the Small yet Powerful Neodymium Magnet

Of course the board shines the most when lying down. It is long enough to cover the torso and the thighs of most subs (up to about 1.90m body height) so it covers most joints and limbs. There are countless different positions you can tie your sub to it: From lying and sitting over kneeling to standing, from comfortable long term bondage over painful stress positions. There are some easy to recreate examples on Regulation’s product page. But the Portable Bondage Board encourages you to be creative and push the limits of your sub’s flexibility. I even managed to tie two subs on the same board, kneeling either back to back or facing each other. If you then introduce a flexible double ended dildo or a pair of nipple clamps, you can create very interesting and intense play on a little space.

A Jimsupport Rim placed on the Bondage Board

For the actual bondage process, you can use different means. If you don’t want to add additional restraints, you can use rope or my beloved Velcro quick restraints. The D-rings are large enough to house several ropes at the same time. Their weldseam is below the leather flap so the ropes run smoothly through the D-rings. When using cuff style leather, rubber or neoprene restraints, the D-rings are wide enough to thread a restraint’s belt directly through the D-ring. While this limits the restraint’s and thus the sub’s movement the most, in case of an emergency you would have to cut the belt itself, destroying the restraint. Of course, human health and security always goes over gear preservation. So my recommended way of attaching restraints to the bondage board is using tension straps. Inexpensive to replace if cut yet almost as effective as directly connection restraint and board.

A question I get asked in almost every reader question is “Which lining material should I choose?” For my board, I chose leather and being made by Fetters it did not disappoint: It is soft yet feels strong, the grain is subtle but noticeable and the smell is intoxicatingly good. If you “just” want to fetter someone to the board, it is a good choice! But leather is a little bit higher maintenance, does not like wetness or messy stuff. So if your bottoms leak a lot of pre-cum or you want to get piggy go for Rubluxe. And to all those fellow pigs out there: The space between the D-rings is about the clearing between the legs of a Jim Support Adjustable Rim Chair, depending on the seat height. Simply fix the legs with tensions straps to the D-rings, maybe fix your bottom to the D-rings and pig out.

Speaking of Rubluxe: The bondage board is also a great fisting base when traveling. The lining is thick enough for a bottom to go both comfortably in doggy or lying on his back. The board itself is a stable base even on soft hotel mattresses. When lying on his back, the combination of ankle restraints and tension straps anchored on the D-rings next to his head can create a travel sling-like layout without putting draft on the bottom’s neck. But for this play, the Rubluxe surface is clearly the superior one for his kind of play. Of course you can put a pad below the fistees ass when using the leather version. But as always, lube finds its way around and as soon as the bottom starts to piss you are in for an intense cleaning session.

The Hinge

Speaking off piss, the rubber bumpers on the bottom give your 7mm ground clearance.  So a Rubluxe covered bondage board can also be used to detain a urinal bottom as long as there is no standing piss which could soak the board from the bottom.

Since the board must not fold when putting pressure on the seam in the middle, it folds inwards not outwards. This means that the padded surface is always on the outside, exposed to potential damages. To protect these sides, I highly recommend ordering the canvas carrying bag for £35 along with the board, especially when you are going to travel with your board!

Conclusion: Effective and versatile yet portable piece of bondage furniture.
Pros Cons Where to get Price
Many D-rings for creative bondage and intense bondage Storage bag is a must purchase when traveling with it Regulation £245
Really sturdy yet somewhat portable
Two options for lining depending on usage scenario and fetish

ToyTorture’s Stocking Stuffer II – Fetters Headtrap

Jesse bound in the Fetters Headtrap

Last year I have already recommended a piece of nimble and nifty bondage furniture for people who cannot or do not want to have a playroom or who travel to events often. This got so much positive feedback that today’s gift recommendation is just that. And again, the Headtrap comes from Fetters which seems to become a specialist for small footprint bondage furniture.

The Parts of the Fetters Headtrap

The Headtrap is basically a small cage without the bars on the side. There is only a piece to trap the head. The rest of the fettering is done attaching restraints to the anchor points, one in each corner. Since there are no bars, the limbs can be places outside of the frame. So with a footprint of just 45x50cm or 50×75.5cm – depending if you put the cage upside or longside – you have a effectively immobilized your sub. The Headtrap comes with a tickly padded plate so you can sit inside the bars. If you add the included locking wheels, you can even push him around. Perfect for a party setting or if you do a long-term scene and want to take your sub with you when you leave the room.

From the pictures it looks that to assemble you just need to tighten 8 screws which seems quick. On the product it says it collapses to five flat pieces so it should be easy to store and if you have a car somewhat easy to transport to your event hotel room (I have seen rim chair on hotel luggage carts at Folsom Europe so…).  Sadly there is no word on the weight. So I guess one of you will have to buy one and tell me 😉

The Fetters Headtrap costs £549 at Regulation in London.

SeriousToyS Rubber Stirrups

The SeriousToyS Rubber Stirrups

Vendor: Vast

Construction

These are the matching stirrups to the rubber sling I reviewed four years ago. Back then their store was still called Demask Dortmund. Since then they have rebranded to Vast and have set up an online shop which makes purchasing their other awesome toys way easier.

Since they are the matching stirrups, they are made the same way out of the same material: Three layers of 2mm thick industrial rubber have been reinforced with Kevlar for maximum durability. To deliver this durability during suspension, even on a shear-prone material like rubber, they did not simply punch a hole through the three layers or riveted a D-ring under a rubber loop as an anchor point. Instead of this they used stainless steel fittings which cover the first 65mm of the rubber. On The “inside” of the stirrups the metal plate extends beyond the rubber and has a 20mm diameter eyelet hole on top. On the “outside” there is just a stainless steel plate. Both fittings are not attached directly to the rubber but house the rubber between themselves through 4 stainless steel screws (rounded hex head on the inside, acorn nut on the outside).

Detail of the Stainless Steel Fittings

Industrial rubber and metal are tough materials to work with. They require a lot of work to be made “playroom ready”. In the manufacturing process all metal and rubber edges have been painstakingly deburred and given a top notch finished. There is no single rough edge or area that can cause chafing. I would even trust to run ropes through the eyelets.

The rubber is slightly oval shaped, measuring 800mm from one end to the other and being 100mm wide in the middle. The overall length is 860mm from metal tip to metal tip. In the product picture on the website they come with a two simple carabiners. I guess I have gotten those too but actually cannot remember.

Detail of the Three Layers of Kevlar Reinforced Industrial Rubber

Playing with the Rubber Stirrups

Don’t let yourself be fooled by the ambivalent website description: This toy is made out of rubber, not vinyl! And it has the smell to prove it! I have bought these stirrups in October of 2019 and they still smell like a fresh rubber suit! A smell fetishist friend of mine love putting a guy with rank sox into those so he can alter between the sox and the rubber smell.

The SeriousToyS Ruber Stirrups Attached to My SeriousToyS Rubber Sling

Speaking of fetishists, these stirrups are made for gearheads! Not only because of the material and the rough & heavy duty aesthetic but because of the size. Most leather or nylon stirrups are large enough to more or less comfortable enter with slim sneaker like Nike TNs. Combat boots are already a struggle to get in and especially out of. And as soon as it comes to bulkier sneakers like Nike Shox (sorry, I only wear Nikes and do not know any Adidas sneaker) or MX boots they do not fit through all other commercial stirrups I have encountered so far. Unlike the SeriousToyS ones! Using professional carabiners to connect the eyelets, you get a clear height of 360mm and a width of 170mm. That is plenty of space for most fetish footwear. If you have really large feet, use individual carabiners for each eyelet to increase the clear height and width even more.

The SeriousToyS Rubber Stirrups are especially made for heavy and messy play. Lube and other substances clean easily off the rubber. And since it is industrial rubber, it requires well less maintenance than the sheet rubber used for fetish clothing. If you want to, you can of course shine the rubber with silicone oil. Though since the lower calf will rest inside the stirrups I would not recommend it.

Detail of the Eyelets

The corresponding sling was used to suspend a Smart car in the on one anchor point. Since the same material and manufacturing process are used, I am very confident this toy will have approximately the same breaking load. And while I would not recommend using this toy to lift your car, I actually use the stirrups as torso support belts in suspension bondage scene. With a few chains and a strong suspension spread bar, they double as a basic sit sling!

For all this kind of “perverterable” scenes, I wish, Vast would offer individual and/ or longer ones for sale. For a proper sit sling you need a third one for back support and for heavier people longer ones would also be great for suspension scenes. But at the moment, especially looking at the price of even simple leather stirrups, these offer incredible value for money! And if you are a rubber fetishist who strives towards an all rubber playroom, there is now nearly as good alternative on the market.

Conclusion: The best, largest and most vers rubber stirups on the market.
Pros Cons Where to get Price
Only reliable rubber stirrups on the market Only comes in one size Vast 99€
Cold on initial skin contact
Extremely well made
Easy to clean
Made for heavy duty play
With a bit of creativity, versatile usage

ToyTorture’s Stocking Stuffer III – Fetters Portable Bondage Board

Fetters Portable Bondage Board equipped with Cuff Restraints

This year again, many kinksters will wish for their own playroom for Christmas. Having lived in dorms and with roommates, I am painfully aware that this wish often takes time to become true. So as the third Christmas gift recommendation I want to show you the Fetter Portable Bondage Board (which I have now reviewed in December 2021).

The board measures 107x612cm and features a total of 14 D-rings, 6 on the side and 2 on each end. So regardless if you are a rigger or using cuff style restraints with carabineers like me, it offers opportunities for many different bondage positions. Since it is thickly padded it is comfortable to kneel or lay in it for extended periods of time. As a cover material, you can choose between leather or a water- and oil-proof material. While looking at all the great leather gear I own from Fetters, the leather quality will be top notch, soft and smelling awesome, I would recommend the Rubluxe. From this material sweat can be easily wiped off and the bondage board can double as an underpacking for fisting – regardless if you prefer Crisco or excess Jlube.

The Rubluxe cover makes the foldable Bondage Board Waterproof

So far, it is also a good piece of bondage furniture for people with a playroom. But: The board can be folded in the middle! Then it only measures 53x61cm and at 10cm height, it can be easily stores away under a bed or in a wardrobe (IKEA Pax are 70cm deep ;)). At 10kg, it is a bit on the heavier side to travel with. But especially if you travel by car, I am certain you will get your effort’s worth at events like Folsom Europe.

Regardless of the cover material, the Fetters Portable Bondage Board costs £245 at Regulation in London.

Lederbondage Leather Sleepsack

Vendor: Lederbondage.com

Let’s start this review with a bit of German leather history: About 1 ½ decades ago, there was a kinky leather craftsman working for VW in Wolfsburg. By day he clad car interiors in leather, by night he crafted some exceptional pieces of bondage gear – including as far as I know ten sleepsacks which are called “VW sleepsacks” by their owners. I could not find out for what reason but this guy stopped making gear over a decade ago.

The Lederbondage.com Leather Sleepsack

Fast forward to the nowish time. One of my closest friends happens to own one of those sleepsacks. He knew I wanted one for my playroom so he got in touch with my other friends and they pooled for the birthday gift. He got in touch with a local leather tailor, sent his sleepsack as a sample, got my measurements and asked what features my ideal sleepsack should have and now after 2 ¼ years and many messages, I am reviewing one of the signature pieces of bondage gear in my playroom.

Detail of the Collar with the V-neck opening and Locking Roller Buckle

Construction

The cocoon-like body of the sleepsack is made out of 1.4mm thick medium-grain cow hide which is really soft. The entire sleepsack is lined with this hide so you end up with an almost 3mm thick layer of leather. But since the leather is so soft, is does not feel stiff but just hugs the sub’s body.

What now follows is all individually bespoke and can be crafted to your desires and needs. I went for a traditional neck to foot zipper. It is the easiest way to get into a sleepsack and especially in long-term scenarios more comfortable than to lay on a back zipper. I chose five runner for my zipper to create different opening for the crotch for example. To be honest, in all the play I had with the sleepsack, I only needed three runner (one to close, two to open up the crotch), because I ordered my sleepsack with tit flaps for easy nipple access. They measure 13x13cm on the outside with giving access to an area of 10x10cm and are attached using Velcro. The inside is smooth leather but I am sure you can also get it with spikes and pins for continuous stimulation.

Detail of the D-rings of Rope Tightening

I chose several means to increase the bondage and leather encapsulation sensation. First, there is the collar. It is attached to the sleepsack with a wide v-neck in the front so it ends with my jaw line without being uncomfortable around the neck. Through this design there is no gap between a hood and the sleepsack and if I want to wear a muzzle or a hood with an attached collar, it still fits because the zipper ends below the neck. Around the collar there is a belt with a locking roller buckle and D-rings for the psychological effect of being locked inside the sleepsack. It is a purely psychological effect because once your arms are inside the arm pockets which I commissioned and the zippers are closed, any person with my rough body shape is not able to escape the sleepsack.

Detail of the Belt’s Roller Buckle

On each side of the sleepsack, there are 8 welded 7mm wire strength stainless steel D-rings riveted with leather flaps using six rivets. Through these thick bridle leather belts with double thorn roller buckles can be threaded to increase the bondage tightness or adjust the fit if you are slimmer than me. In addition to them, there are 8 smaller D-rings with “just” one rivets attached each side of the zipper. They are for threading rope through them for an ever tighter bondage and adding a different color to the all black sleepsack. On each shoulder and on the feet pocket there is another big D-ring. While they can be used to tied the sleepsack to the bed, I added them to be suspended inside the sleepsack either hanging on the shoulders or in a hammock like setup.

In order to unleash the true long-term potential of the sleepsack, I commissioned a cushion to put between the legs. This way there is not friction on the ankles and knees which would limit the time inside the sleepsack. The firmness of foam is soft enough to be comfortable jet firm enough to keep the joints from pressing against each other. The seam is one big piping so it is completely smooth.

Detail of the Padded Leg Devider

Another advantage of having your sleepsack made by a leather tailor is that each sleepsack is made to measure. He does not simply purchase a sleepsack body and adds straps and D-rings as the customers asks, but builds everything from scratch. Through this, he knows his product inside out and if necessary can do alterations. Last year, I worked out my thighs a bit too much and gained so much muscle mass that I could not close the zipper around the legs anymore. I just send it in and he added two pieces of leather just around my thighs so the sleepsack maintained his overall fit. While the sleepsack feels solid and is made for scenes and generations to come, if you are nitpicky, you will little aesthetic flaws like not all rivets being set in exactly the same way, some belt holes might be a bit off. After all, he is not Mr S who make dozens of sleepsacks every year, but these little points does not affect the functionality. I gladly oversee these little flaws for having a leather sleepsack which is exactly how I want it to be. Also, he has made several of them since he made mine so I guess he gathered some experience making them by now.

Detail of the D-rings around the Sleepsack

Naturally, all that leather and metal comes at a weight. In my case, almost 10kg. Even when packed tightly, it is almost a quarter cubic meter. I have taken this sleepsack to events in Berlin but it is not the most handy piece of bondage gear to travel with, especially when you do not travel by car.

As I written, this sleepsack was tailored to my demands and expectations. The original VW sleepsacks did not have D-rings on the sleesack but on the belts which were equipped with locking posts. So before ordering one, my recommendation is to try out some different sleepsacks (if possible) to figure out how your sleepsack needs to look like!

Playing with Leather Sleepsack

If you are a regular reader, you will most likely notice that a few weeks ago, I reviewed a rubber sleepsack. The big question is: Why another, way more expensive one?

Detail of the Tit Flaps

First, there is a fetish aspect. Some people like leather, other like rubber. I like both.

So the major point is that inside a leather sleepsack the feeling of bondage is more intense. While rubber will stretch, leather does not give in. You are confined to the shell of a thick, heavy leather cocoon. Leather is the most common material in bondage because it is strong. You can fight, you can struggle, you can stretch, you can grab and (try to) tear. The leather will not give in. This also impact the tightening process. With the rubber sleepsack I have to be careful when threading the rope through the D-rings and tightening it. On this one, I can tug and pull to really get it tight without having to worry to rip the rivet out of the material.

Detail of the Shoulder D-rings for Suspension Bondage

Because of these properties, the leather sleepsack is for heavier play or subs who like to struggle. With the D-rings around the sleepsack, it can easily be tied down so there is no wiggle room left for the sub. This comes in handy when inducing intense amounts of agony like through electro, CBT or milking. The tit flaps are large enough to expose the nipples to wax. And while wax does not destroy leather, it tarnishes the surface so some level of care is necessary.

For floaty bondage, it depends on your style. As soft as the leather is, it still maintains some level of stiffness. The thickness isolates the bottom from his surroundings. Because of that, the belts around the sleepsack are so wide that when tightening them the sub really feels the force and strength of the top. Add to that the weight of the leather and the feeling of being bound and helpless is more intense than in a rubber sleepsack.

Detail of the Arm Pockets

In a normal playroom setting leather also offers a bit more comfort than rubber. Since the leather is so thick it regulates the temperature quite well as long as the room temperature is at a normal level and the sleepsack does not lay in the open sun. Being a natural material, it also absorbs some level of sweat. This is also the downside of leather. Unlike rubber it is very difficult to clean – especially a large piece of gear as a sleepsack. So if the scene should be long-term, I recommend putting a diaper on the sub. Because leather is so comfortable and the sweating is not really noticed unlike in rubber, hydration and overheating can become a problem. So check in with the sub regularly and maybe open a little gap in the zipper to check his body.

Conclusion: Very well made leather sleepsack with loads of extras and a few beauty flaws.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Made to measure with extras tailored to the sub’s requirements Little imperfections in the manufacturing execution tarnish overall outstanding quality Lederbondage.com Around 1.500€ depending on the extras and shipping
Lavish amount of D-rings for intense
Ordering process more difficult and longer compared to off the rack sleepsack
bondage Suspension capability
Top notch leather and metal trim quality
Exceptional value for money

 

Rubber Bondage Sleepsack

The Torso of the Libidex Rubber Bondage Sleepsack

Vendor: Libidex

I do not review many rubber bondage items, mainly because I am maybe a bit too active sub to be contained by them and I am too lazy to clean them. But there are good reasons for some rubber bondage gear and I am more than happy to finally answer one of the most asked bondage gear question in this review.

Construction

Like the name of this toy already implies, it is tailored like a bodyfit sleepsack, a tight cocoon to envelop the body in latex. Unlike the sleepsacks made for camping this one only has a standing collar instead of an opening for the whole body. Also, the bottom has a shaped upward facing section for the feet. To get into the sleepsack, there are two zipper options: Either on top or on the bottom of the sleepsack, both running from the collar to the feet from. Mine has the top zipper for three reasons: First, from my experience with other sleepsacks, front access is way more important than rear access when it comes to sleepsacks. The idea of fucking a bottom inside a sleepsack (for which you would need rear access) is a hot idea, but this is quickly shattered by the reality of the bottom being an immobile “plank” and the zipper irritating the top’s dick. Second, lying on a zipper can be very uncomfortable, especially when the runners are poking you in the back. Finally, getting into a rear-zipper-sleepsack with arm pockets is a pain in the ass. The rear zipper comes with a cleaner look but in my opinion is not worth the disadvantages which comes with it. For a little surcharge you can get the opposite access zipper added to your sleepsack too.

As already implied, the Libidex Bondage Sleepsack is equipped with arm pockets which are really well designed. They open up deep enough inside the sleepsack to allow people with thick chest and shoulder muscles to comfortably get into and stay in them. Furthermore they are really deep so people with long arms do not have problems.

Detail of the Sleepsack’s Arm Pockets

The Bondage Sleepsack (like all Libidex sleepsacks) is made out of 0.8mm rubber. This thickness is a good compromise of sturdiness yet flexibility and stretchiness. The material stretches just enough for easy getting and staying in but still has enough compressing force for the compact, encapsulating rubber bondage feeling. The seams are glued really well and with enough of an overlap to take a bit of beating. In combination with the material thickness, this model can contain a somewhat active sub. But keep in mind that rubber is not nearly as strong as leather! When fettering a bratty sub or going for a painplay scene where the sub will work out the pain, I highly recommend either getting (rubber) belts or tie rope around the sleepsack.

To help keep these means in place, the sleepsack is equipped with welded D-rings with an inner width of 35. Along the side there are four D-ring paris: Above the elbow, over the wrists, above the knee and around the ankles. There is a pair on top of the shoulder, one pair on the collar and finally a single D-ring at the bottom of the feet. The D-rings are attached to the sleepsack using a 30mm wide strap of rubber which is reinforced with a 15mm wide strap of fabric striping. Through this striping there are two rivets on each side which are covered by rubber patches in the inside. This is not only good for potential allergy reasons but the sweat and other liquids accumulating inside the sleepsack would cause rust. As sturdy as the D-rings are attached to the sleepsack, as little I would recommend to use the D-rings for limiting a subs movement by tying the sleepsack down onto a bed frame for example. The chances of the rivets being ripped out of the rubber are too high. Better use the rope as an anchor point.

Detail of the Rivet Cover inside the Sleepsack

Finally, a word in the customization options for the sleepsack: You can choose from 43 colors and sizes ranging from XXS to 4XL free of charge with is the largest selection of colors and sizes I have come across yet. Furthermore there are three length options. I have gotten the tall for being around 1.88m tall and it fits me really well – as well as some of my guests which were as tall as 2.05m.

Playing with the Bondage Sleepsack

While this rubber sleepsack can be used to fetter a sub for pain play, the limitations above apply. When you have an active sub and are not a big fan of additionally wrapping rope, belts or chains around a sub, I recommend getting a leather sleepsack (or if you are a rubber fetishist, get both and layer up).

After having gotten that out of the way, let’s talk about the great sensual quality of a rubber sleepsack. Unlike leather, the rubber stretches and flows over the body like a second skin. This has made the rubber sleepsack the favorite piece of bondage for floaty bondage scenes with my subs. With 0.8mm the material is just thin enough to transmit the light touches of fingers traveling over the body. But the material also picks up movement from a strong massager, causing the latex cocoon to resonate around the application area for a unique feeling. Add to that the temperature conductivity of rubber and an ice cube of metal implement warmed in water can create become a tool on the brink between ecstasy and agony. Though NEVER pour wax over rubber or apply hot, sharp or spiky implements! It will damage the material. Since rubber is non-breathable and despite the good temperature conductivity contains warmth, temperature control and hydration (due to sweating) is a constant issue. Make sure that the room is well heated but not too warm, opening a window with a light breeze going over the bound boy can quickly make him become hypothermic. On the other end of the temperature scale, letting him lay in the sun will make him overheat. All these factors have to be taken into consideration when planning the scene because one inside the sleepsack, moving the bottom is difficult. And getting into a sweat-drenched cold rubber bag is a fetish some very much enjoy but not many.

Detail of the Rubber Stripes Holding the D-rings in Place

Rubber is also a good isolating material. I had great fun teasing a sub with a violet wand electrode running over his body, coming closer or moving away from his exposed genitals and alternating the wand’s intensity, so he never knew when the spark would jump over to his dick. When doing this kind of play, be careful with coming too close to the metal zipper which also conducts and can cause interesting effects…

Since the seams are glued really well, the rubber bondage sleespack is basically one big tub which of cause can be filled with liquids. This starts with dropping an ice cube or two against overheating, continues over the ability to relieve oneself during long-term bondage and ends in being the party urinal when the courtesy piss bottom cannot swallow quickly enough (or being the drain for him). While you can fit almost every smaller body type into even a larger and taller sleepsack, when playing with liquids the body fit should be roughly the one ordered. Otherwise the liquids will flow out of the neck opening.

Detail of the Feet Section of the Sleepsack

When talking about messy things, I have to talk about the biggest pain in the ass with rubber items:  Cleaning and maintenance. You can and have to clean the bondage sleepsack like every rubber item (as described in my Rubber 101). The weight and size makes handling the sleepsack a bit clumsy and due to the attached feet section, getting all liquids out before and after the wash is a bit difficult. Polishing the sleepsack takes a while just as applying talcum in the inside (never forget the arm pockets). And finally, the sleepsack should be stored hanging best to avoid creases. Despite all the hassle, I was surprised how often I use the rubber bondage sleepsack.

Conclusion: Extremely good value for money rubber sleepsack.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Good fit and arm pockets for tight bondage experience Only three runner on the zipper Libidex £299
Material thickness good compromise of bound feeling and sensual qualities Cleaning is a pain in the ass
Plenty of D-rings for additional fettering
Wide range of possible sizes

Leather Suspension Harness

The Blackjump Leather Suspension Harness

Vendor: Blackjump

Construction

Like with all heavy duty bondage items, the first look should always be on the material and manufacturing quality in order to see if the gear will actually detain a struggling sub. This is even more important with a suspension harness because an equipment failure will not only ruin a scene but can potentially cause injuries!

This Blackjump model is beyond any doubt. All straps are made out of sturdy, 2mm thick and 50mm wide belt leather (except the one across the chest which is 30mm wide). Points with crucial load bearing or extreme kinetic stress either feature double leather layers or four instead of just two rivets. Equally important is the protection of fragile and vulnerable body parts from the stiff leather belts digging in. For this thick and stiff foam under soft leather is used so even under a lot of pressure you do not feel the leather and metal below the padding. The hardware is also supreme: The D-rings are welded and made out of thick steel, the buckles are sturdy roller buckles.

Detail of the Double Lay Leather to extra-reinforce the Suspension D-ring

All these ingredients are mixed together into what appears fairly simple design which in the details shows a lot of thought. The torso part is basically two belts with holes on both ends, riveted to an X with one rivet on the back so the angle between the two belts can adjust easily depending on the sub’s body size. To protect collarbone and the shoulders, there are pads which can be attached to the belts with snaps. Though mine have been lost when I have bought this harness from a friend; I need to reorder them again. On the apex of both belts there is a D-ring from which this harness gets suspended. Just above the belt holes in front there is a horizontal strap riveted with a roller buckle to tighten the harness in front of the chest.

Using four buckles, these straps are connected to the piece de resistance of this suspension harness: The roughly bone-shaped, padded pelvic-protection. Since there are no muscles and rarely a thick layer of fat over the pelvis, this body area is very sensitive to abrasions. Because of this it has to be padded, either through a pad (like Mr S does) or through a padded belt (like Fetters does). Blackjump goes further. He extends the padding over the stomach region onto the lower rib cage to also protect this fragile body part. In order to maintain the flexibility and adjustability of the harness, the padding is not only ergonomically shaped, but middle part which goes over the stomach section is with 60mm only 40% as wide as the 140mm wide padding to the pelvis and rib cage. A little drawback of the heavy duty design is that the rivets which connect the belts with the padding are not covered by leather.

Detail of the Padding Protecting the Pelvis and Rib Cage

The four buckles on the upper end of the padding allow to adjust the harness the bottom’s body size. It is very adjustable; I suspended people from 1,69m to 2,05m and thin twinks to heavier bears with no problem. From my experience with leather as a material and without any guarantee I would say the breaking load of this harness is somewhere between 150kg and 180kg. Below the buckles of the back there is also a D-ring riveted. To my knowledge it is the only fetish suspension who has these D-rings but they are very important when the sub is not flying high (see below). On the bottom there is a belt attached which go around the thigh. To also protect this delicate body area (see below), there a 100mm wide and 350mm long padded “sleigh” running on the strap so regardless of the length adjustment is always cover the back part of the thigh.

At least when my friend bought the harness some 10 years ago, it came with a sturdy suspension bar. On both ends quick links are welded onto the bar, the actually suspension is attached to a triangle ring welded onto the middle. From the quick links 350mm of 6mm wire gauge chain are suspended. The actually harness is suspended using pear clips which the avid reader knows I am not a big fan off. Though since they are never actually opened the sharpness does not really play a role. And at least the ones I have a certified for 230 daN. So I can hardly imagine a strong, heavy muscle bear exceeding the dynamic breaking load of 469kg + safety margin…

Detail of the Back Buckle with D-ring

Playing with the Suspension Harness

For me suspension bondage, especially in a harness and using rope, is the ultimate form of mindfuck bondage: You are free to move around yet unable to escape. To achieve this level of mindfuck, the sub needs to be suspended so high that his toes can’t touch the ground and his hands can’t touch anything. If you do not have a gymnasium for a playroom, this can be difficult. The extreme situation is my playroom where some subs have to crouch to get into the harness with the suspension bar above them. To still get the sub helpless, put ankle restraints on him and connect them to the D-rings on the back. Depending on the degree of helplessness, fetter the hands using suspension restraints to the suspension bar or to the D-ring to which the thigh belt is connected. In the latter position for added stress, upper arm restraints can be connected to the back D-rings. However, I would not recommend to subject to sub to too much pain in this situation because due to the limited upper arm movement  he can quickly pull something.

The design of the straps and belts allow for maximum accessibility for sensation play over TT and CBT to spanking and even flogging. Particularly fun are e-stim scenes with movement triggered units like the Electrastim Flick Duo or Axis. Once the sub starts to work the pain out, self-sustaining system of constant movement is set in motion which keeps the stimulation coming and coming.

Detail of the Suspension Bar and Chains

The feeling of flying can also heighten the sensations of more traditional play like getting fucked or fisted. The free movement of the harness creates a way stronger swinging action than a sling does. While a suspension harness seems like a natural match for a milking machine, I made not the best experience with my Venus 2000. The body’s natural reaction to an intense sensation is flinching, pulling the penis out of the receiver. Just suspending the receiver from the chest strap also proved to instable. I have seen people converting cock sheaths into attachment points for the receiver so this might work.

Detail of the Thigh Padding

As hot and fun suspension bondage is, it is also one of the most dangerous forms of bondage due to the risk of suspension trauma. In short suspension bondage is the blood gathering in the legs when being suspended for an extended period of time which will cause a circulatory collapse. Symptoms are sweating, breathlessness, dizziness, feeling sick, dropping blood pressure or numbness. If any of these symptoms occur, get the sub out of the harness but NEVER LAY HIM DOWN! During suspension trauma the heart tries to pump the blood up with ever increasing force. Laying him down would cause the blood to shoot into the torso and brain, basically killing him! This is called rescue death. To prevent this, for the first 20 to 30 minutes, keep the torso in an upright position. A suspension trauma is not a “miner circulation crash” but a serious medical emergency and requires professional help! Drugs which increase blood pressure and/ or open up the blood vessels like poppers can increase the likelihood of suspension trauma. While the thick padding on critical areas makes the appearing of a suspension trauma unlikely, a suspended sub (like all bound subs) should never be left alone and a suspension scene should never go over extended periods of time. Furthermore it is important to talk with the sub about the potential symptoms before a scene so he can draw the top’s attention to problems early enough and does not dismiss them out of mislead will to be obedient.

Speaking of safely suspending someone: If you want to really lift the sub after fettering him in the harness, I highly recommend getting a professional winch for liability reasons. Considering dynamic loads, you should get one with over 1,000kg carrying load!

Conclusion: Bes fetish suspension harness I have come across yet.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Great craftsmanship out of high quality materials Takes forever to break in Blackjump Ca. 250€
Thick and ample padding for comfortable and safe scenes over extended periods of time
D-rings in all relevant places
Comes with suspension hardware

 

Fetish Pads

The Fetish Pad in the Natural Habitit: Protecting Delicate Hardwood Floor during Messy Play

Vendor: The Kinksters

Construction

These pads are a kinky version of the medical products used for people with incontinence or to cover the changing tables of babies. The bottom is made out of water-proof foil and covered by a gauze-like material which covers – in this case two layers of – absorbing cellulose. The Fetish Pads also follows this product category’s standard sizing. The entire pad measures 59x86cm of which the absorbing padding measures 53.5×75.5cm. They are sold in cases of 15.

What distinguishes this product from the medical ones is the one hand color: The medical ones come in blue and green, sometimes even in white. But the Fetish Pad is made in the kink scene’s favorite color black. Because the gauze is only semiopaque, the absorbing surface has a cloudy charcoal color.

Left: Bottom’s Water-proof Foil
Right: Absorbing Padding

Playing with the Fetish Pads

There are countless forms of play in which the Fetish Pads can be used. The most obvious are piss play, either the “traditional” one or pup play in terms of house training. To create a larger area for piss or gunge play I recommend to overlap several pads and tape the gaps from both sides. They are also useful for fisting. Place them under the bottom’s directly ass or the sling to absorb lube or piss after bladder stimulation. I usually travel with pads when playing in hotels because unlike a play sheet they do not take away much space and I can simply throw away after the scene. For this purpose, the Fetish Pads are clearly superior to their medical counter parts which are usually stiffer. The Fetish Pads are soft and easily curve around the body so there are no gaps where liquids could escape. Furthermore the pads can take quite a bit of beating without tearing so the liquids are even well contained when an active bottom is placed on them.

Detail of the Interior of the Absoring Padding

But what disappointed me a bit was their absorption capacity. To test the pads, I evenly poured a liter of water over them. While the cellulose quickly absorbed the water where it hit, the pad struggled to absorb the full amount of liquid. A liter might sound excessive but keep in mind that is poured it evenly over the entire absorbing surface, something which is far from a real-life situation. So for example during fisting if a bottom getting fisted pisses himself or lots of lube flows out of his ass, the area of the liquid hitting the pad will be very small. Since a person lying on them creates a depression, the unabsorbed liquid will linger there, making it uncomfortable over time. So for heavy fetish play, I would have liked there to be four or even six cellulose layers for more capacity.

And finally, there is the price: At £1.73 per pad, they are rather pricy for a “use and throw away without worrying too much”-item. So in the end it all comes down to how important the color coordination with the gear and the playroom is for a kinkster in need of absorbing pads.

Conclusion: Styling yet expensive absorbing pads with limited capacity
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Stylish Design Limited absorption power The Kinksters £25.99
Sturdy build Expensive