Pig Play Toys: Nose Hooks & Mouth Opener

Pig Play Mouth & Nose Toys

It’s beginning to look a lot like Pigmas
Toy for every hoe
But the prettiest sight to see is the piggy that will be
Choking on a pole

 

Merry Pigmas kinksters and perverts! It’s a holiday created by gays to celebrate that we survived yet another year of holidays among family and friends who have a hard time understanding our lifes. It’s a day to ring out the old year with sexy debaucheries.

The Classic Nose Hook

Pig play has been gaining some traction in the past year. There are a few toys out there associated with this kind of play. Which day of the year would be better to take a look at a couple of these particular and perverted toys than today?

Classic Nose Hook from Regulation (£ 19.99)

As the name already implies the classic nose hook is probably the most basic and iconic toy in pig play. 5mm grade stainless steel wire is bend into u-shape. The body has a height of 51mm and the hooks going into the nose are 16mm long. The clearance between the hooks is 9mm and 10mm between the hooks and the body. The ends of the hooks are well rounded and don’t have any sharp edges.

The Rounded Ends of the Nose Hook

In order to pull the nose back to get that snout look perverts into pig play dig, threat a piece of rope or tension strap through the apex of the body, pull it back over the head of sub’s head and attach it to a collar, harness or whatever bondage layout you want to incorporate it into. The more you pull, the more stress bondage it becomes. In stress positions, please be careful, the nose tissue is delicate and too much draft can result in injuries.

To call the hook comfortable would be an overstatement. But the long hooks distribute the draft a bit more evenly even though the tips dig a bit into the nose. What on a comfort level sets this hook apart from others I have tried is the small fillet. The hooks are so close together that they comfortably fit even tiny noses. Two of the hooks can also be used to pull the corners of the mouth apart for pathetic drooley face. Some pig players like to add a hook for each nostril to really pull the nose apart. For this the hook is actually too wide for most noses. Since the stainless steel wire is really rigid, you need heavy duty tools to bend the hooks tighter together.

The Hook of the Nose Hook Strap

Nose Hook with Strap from Regulation (£ 24.99)

If you are like me and are not good with rope, the nose hook with strap might look attractive. The nose hook is a piece of 4.5mm thick metal wire bend into u shape. The ends are slightly bent upwards in a sharp angle to go into the nose. To finish the otherwise sharp ends of the hook, a 6mm metal ball is soldered into the end. The clearance between the balls is about 12mm. Since one of my balls is off center on my version, I am pretty sure that the distance can vary one to two millimeters.

Onto the hook a 55cm long strap of 15mm wide bridle leather is riveted. The edges are not burnished or deburred so it is far from the quality of products made by Regulation; you can feel that this toy was purchased from an Asian manufacturer. Every 40mm the strap is decorated with a rivet. At the end a key ring is riveted onto which a small die casting swivel carabiner is attached.

Keyring with Swivel Carabiner

While the overall production quality of the toy might not be high end and far from the toys Regulation makes themselves, it is a functional. The spheres are the end of the nose hook are actually a bit more comfortable because they distribute the draft more evenly.

 

However, getting tension onto the hook is actually a challenge. Among my testees the length of the lead was too long for attaching to a collar, too short for attaching it to a harness. There are probably people out there where it fits perfectly. But in my sample of ten testees with very broad body types it didn’t fit. I would have wished for a double d-ring closure mechanism to shorten the leash to fit the piggy’s physique and play situation.

The Adjustment Screws to Fix the Teeth Retainer

Inspection Gag from Regulation (£ 24.79)

The body of this pig toy is a slightly oval, slightly convex ring out of sturdy polymer with internal dimensions of 75x67mm. At the top are 22mm long and 9mm apart pins covered with hoods which are supposed to go into the mouth. At the bottom is a 70mm long and 23mm wide grip. It houses a 12mm wide piece of L-shaped stainless steel. This sheet goes into the mouth and pulls the teeth on the lower jaw down. A small spring pulls it down for easy adjustment. Since the spring is far from strong enough to keep the strong jaw muscles in check, there is a screw to fix the strap in place.

In order to close the mouth, humans need to move the lower jaw. If the sub does this, he pushes the toy into the nose. Of course the screw only has so much power but closing the mouth is almost impossible and certainly very painful, making this toy very effective keep the mouth open. Even on a cooperative sub, the pins pins pushing into the nose will lead to a very piggy and somewhat pathetic look of the sub.

The Pins for Nose Fixation

The gag allows for the sub’s mouth to be opened to the max, far wider than a spider gag or ring gag would allow. The inspection gag is smaller and nimbler than a Jennings Jaw clamp and adds a more piggy look. So it is in the middle ground of effectiveness and handiness. For face fucking and deep throating the gag works well because it moves a bit and thus is more comfortable for the top. Just make sure you don’t injure the nose when vigorously fucking. One of my testee tops preferred this toy for manual aka dildo-suppported face fuck training. The piggy look of the stretched nostrils added to the drooling of the sub.

For forced rimming this gag is medium effective. Yes, the mouth is forced open but that tongue can retreat in the back of the mouth or block to opening whatever is opportune in the scene. Forced swallowing is okish. Swallowing with an open mouth is difficult and you have to pinch the nose shut for really force which is a but undercut by the pins. So forced drinking has a little water boarding to it.

The Mouth Clamp all opened up

Mouth Gag Clamp from Regulation (£ 34.70)

The body of this gag is still O-ring with 45mm internal diameter. It features little wings on the side onto which threaded rods are soldered. On these rods ride half-circles with wings. There movement is limited by nuts which ultimately screw the movable parts towards the O-ring. The toy is well made out of solid steel without sharp edges. So there are no unintentional injuries even in the delicate corners of the mouth – if the sub can easily open his mouth far enough…

Technically the mouth gag clamp is not a gag but a clamp. It is designed to put the lips around the O-ring and then lock them in place. Depending on the force this just keeps the lips open or induces quite a lot of pain in an otherwise not for pain play used body area. Even when the sub is a masochist, be careful not to bruise the lips as they are a delicate body are.

The Adjustment Mechanism of the Mouth Clamp

In order to put the lips around the O-ring the sub more or less has to open his mouth. Closing it will pull painfully on the lips. But since only the lips keep the mouth open, the effectiveness as a gag is limited. So this toy requires some cooperation of the sub. The only way of forcing his jaws open is grabbing them with your hand. This is a bit cumbersome because the gag is in the way of the palm. Yet the small opening is large enough to pour liquids and small solids into the mouth – if the bottom doesn’t block the opening with his tongue. For forced rimming this toy is not really made. The wide, bulky construction in top of the mouth keeps the bottom from really getting into the crack. He would need a REALLY long tongue to get into your anus.

Straight friends a told me that this clamp can also be used to forcefully keep a woman’s labia opened. The internal diameter of 45mm is not generous so I am not sure how comfortable a top could use this toy for penetration. If you play with a vagina/ bonus or front hole user and have other applications for this toy in this region, please write me!

Slot Tawse & Bullseye Wooden Paddle

Bullseye & Slot Tawse Wooden Paddle

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

Both paddles are made out of a medium brown, light wood which has been sanded and oiled so there are not splinters. The surface still has some noticeable grain left for a natural texture. Both paddles are fairly light. Sadly I forgot the note with the exact numbers on my desk home and my mother’s kitchen scale is not accurate enough for a measurement. I will fill in the blanks once home from Christmas vacation.

The Bullseye is made out of single piece of 17mm thick wood. The edge running around the paddle had been nicely rounded. The paddle’s circular hitting surface has a diameter of 130mm. It features one central hole with 25mm diameter and four adjacent ones with 20mm diameter. The head flows into a 190mm long handle which tapers slightly towards the end for a secure and comfortable grip. At the bottom a leather loop is threaded through a hole.

The Sandwich Handle of the Slot Tawse with the Leather Loop in the Back

The basis of the Slot Tawse on the other hand is a 12mm thick blade. Its head measures 95x280mm and features hard but not sharp edges. The 145mm long tapering handle is reinforced with a layer of wood on each sides bringing the thickness up to 25mm. It also adds round edges for a more comfortable grip. In middle of the hitting surface there are two 20x90mm holes (aka slots) cut behind each other. Also the Slot Tawse is equipped with a leather loop. Both toys’ loops are long enough to secure the toy around the top’s wrist.

Playing with the Bullseye and Slot Tawse

Being light paddles, the pain sensation of both lean toward sting.  This is supported by the design. Both the holes and the slots allow air which would otherwise be trapped between the hitting surface and the sub’s body to escape. So there is no dampening air cushion how little its effect might be. Being light the intensity can luckily be adjusted finely. A light tapping will not cause too much pain. However, if you hit full throttle, both paddles will sting like hell!

The Head of the Bullseye

The Bullseye is a surprisingly beginner-friendly paddle. The ergonomic handle makes it easy to grip and its compact shape easy to control. The head is small enough to target individual ass cheeks or thighs even with bad aim or arm control. More experienced players can even use it for ball slapping if the bottom can spread his legs far enough. If you hit with only little force, the Bullseye can be used for warm-up if the bottom prefers stingy warm-up.

The Slot Tawse plays a completely different game! The first noticeable attribute is that the blade like the Bullseye’s head has no give. So unlike a leather toy 100% of kinetic energy is transformed into pain on the bottom body. The blade it large enough to comfortably hit both ass cheeks at the same time. Focused hits with just the end are possible. But the hard edge will add even more sting.

The Hard Edge on the Slot Tawse

While the Bullseyes is a bit head-heavy, the Slot Tawse is really well balanced so you don’t tired your wrist when hitting with it. The sanding and oiling has been done painstakingly so the texture you feel when running your finger tips over the toys does not transform into abrasive pain.

Caution is in order when playing heavily with this toy: Wood is a higher maintenance material than rubber and aluminum. It is hard to sanitize because it absorbs a bit of the tissue fluid and since it has no clear coating, blood will stain it. So if you play really hard, do not only spray a sanitizer on it but let it lay in the sun for a few days before using it on someone else (alternative: use a UV sanitizer some of you might have bought during the Covid crisis). To keep the paddle as beautiful as it is, I recommend oiling it with olive oil (or a wood oil of your choice) every 6 to 12 months depending on how often you use it. This might alter the wood color and give the toy patina but ultimately it will turn a random paddle into YOUR paddle.

The Wood’s Grain

That being said at least for me the feeling of warm, grainy wood in the hand makes up for this work. The handle of the Bullseye feels and fits like worry stone. For me as a top there is something sensual in holding a beautiful made, open-grain piece of wood in my hand and playing with it. If you make your sub kiss the toy before applying it, he will be able to smell a faint hint of wood.

Conclusion: Beautifully made wooden paddle for beginners and pain pigs.  
Pros Cons Where to get Price  
Despite being made out of unforgiving wood, Bullseye can be used for warmup Being made out of wood difficult to clean and sanitize Regulation Bullseye £39.99
Slot Tawse £39.99
Excellent overall quality and fell
Leather loop for easy storage

ToyTorture’s Stocking Stuffer IV – Last Minute Gift Ideas

Thirsty Ho Ho Ho Christmas Tee Ornament

It is only 6 days till Christmas Eve! So the time for elaborate custom gear gifts has somewhat passed. To not end up empty handed or just a bleak gift certificate, here are some last minute recommendations.

Last year fetish pin manufacturer Master of the House started a line of limited edition Christmas Tree ornaments with one ornament per year. Luckily, Regulation in London still has both last and this year’s: 2021’s Thirsty Hohoho featuring a sexy boy Christmas and this year’s Naughty & Nice with a blindfolded sub. They are great to bring a little naughty sparkle into your Christmas Tree, to hang in your home office window or to add a little something to an otherwise dull gift certificate. To kink up a gift certificate, you can put it in one of Spacepup Silver’s funny yet kinky Christmas cards.

A Selection of Spacepup Silver’s Kinky Christmas Cards

Speaking off Spacepup Silver: Him being so into campy and shiny stuff, I am actually surprise that he has not started making Christmas ornaments of his own yet. If you like his style Regulation sells all most his entire oeuvre as a writer. He takes accurate but always humoristic looks as different parts of the scene like rubber or pup play. So if you want to gift that special hardcore fetishist something funny and educational, check out his works.

Get Fucked Up Poppers Pack

Finally, something almost all kinksters cannot have enough in stock: Poppers, the perfect present for perverts. Surprisingly, I often get asked “Where can I get poppers in good quality?” Since the store where I shop only ships locally, take a look at Twisted Beast Poppers. Personally, I had most fun with their Fag and Holy Water, an avid bator friend unsurprisingly swears by Bator. But since everyone reacts differently to different kinds of poppers, gifting a multi pack to find out which works best for the lucky recipient might bring joy to him, his play partners and thus hopefully you for the dark winter months to come.

Fetters Tight Leather Hood

The Fetters Tight Leather Hood

Vendor: Regulation

Making a good hood is an art not mastered by many! This is my first piece of headgear from Fetters. So I was curious if it could live up to the same level of quality I know from their other leather gear.

Construction

The Tight Leather Hood is a four panel hood made out of thick garment leather. The leather is soft and smells rich and delicious just like high quality leather gear should be. Through seams and molding the hood follows the shape of the human head. Below the nose are two small grommets which are large enough for easy breathing even in heavy scenes. The mouth part is reinforced with another piece of leather so it stays in shape over time.

The Nose Grommets and Pin-Hole Eyes

On the back from the neck to almost all the way up to the crown runs a piece of thin nylon rope through cinch rings. They are high quality and sturdy so they can withstand a lot of force when lacing the head tightly and/ or forcefully. A leather wedge below the lacing keeps the hair from getting caught in the lacing. Regardless if you choose the hood to be lined with leather or not, the wedge will always be an unlined, single layer piece of leather.

Besides the leather lining there are several customizing options how the eyes and nose opening are designed. The hood can be outfitted with a snap-on blindfold, a mouth cover (optionally with a pecker gag) and a locking collar. The range of sizes is quite large in theory, ranging up to a collar size of 20’’. But the lower end is at 14’’ circumference which especially for petit subs and ladies might still be too wide.

The Lacing on the Back for a Snug Fit

Playing with the Tight Leather Hood

As the name suggests, this hood tightly wraps around the head and follows the contours of the face without being uncomfortable.  Since the lacing goes up all the way to almost the crown, its tightness can be locally adjusted so the hood can accommodate different head shapes and sizes. Being made out of soft yet thick garment leather you really get the feeling of being encapsulated in it. For an even stronger leather feeling I highly recommend the leather lining. It is hard to put the difference into words but the feeling of the lined hood tightening around the head is more compact, more intense. While the double layer of leather shields the bottom a bit from the surroundings a medium-light touch is still felt.

To my astonishment the fit of this hood is very good despite being only made out of basically four panels! Even the nose section which is often a problem fit most testees well, regardless of the nose was large, wide or pointy. As with every piece of leather gear, it will adapt to the wearer over time so if the nose does not fit perfectly right away, wear the hood over extended periods of time and sweat and warmth would mold this section into shape.

Detail of the Four-Panel Construction

The level of gimpdom is determined by the features chosen. There is not really much to say about the open and no eyes options. The pin-holes of this eye option are 8mm apart. This is just enough for most people to still see almost unobscured. You can add a blindfold which is attached using snap buttons. This of course distracts a bit the clean, smooth gimp look of the hood. Despite being made out of soft leather there is a small gap between the blindfold and the mask itself. This gap is not wide enough for the bottom to see anything but some stray light reaches the eye. For a 100% block-out, I recommend a dedicated blindfold.

The open mouth can also be covered either by just but a patch of leather of a pecker gag. The snap buttons are strong enough to keep the gag locked inside the sub’s mouth even when he tried to push it out with force. The gag option is only available for the round mouth.

The round mouth has a diameter of 45mm. This is large enough to place even a large gag inside. But if you are well endowed it will probably be too small for your dick. Even when your dick is smaller, this hood is not really made for vigorous face fucking. The cutout is just the bare leather edge and not finished with piping. Due to the reinforcement of the mouth part, the edge is stiff. Over time it will get softer but especially in the beginning you can get a bit of leather burn if you fuck too quickly.

The Unfinished Mouth Opening

For the slot mouth I have gotten only second hand opinions. According to a sub from the UK, once the hood is broken in well, you can push a gag through it. But for a dick it is to narrow and uncomfortable.

The final option is the lockable collar. This only makes sense when you want a cleanish look (as clean as it gets with an attached lockable collar). Neither any of the friends who own this hood nor me did choose it because it limits what you can do with the hood. If your sub or you are collared, you probably already have a collar you want to wear with this hood. A looser chain collar might work, but leather collars are too bulky. Since the leather is so soft, this hood even works with a posture or a choking collar. So my advice is not to add the collar just to stay flexible of what you can do with this hood.

Conclusion: Highly customizable, high quality, tightly fitting leather hood.
Pros Cons Where to get Price
Tight yet comfortable fit Edges of the mouth (and eyes) are not treated/ finished Regulation £275 + options
Many customizing options
High quality leather & build quality
Very sturdy lacing with leather hair guard

Fetters Scrotum Strap & Weight Anchor Strap

The Fetters Scrotum Strap & Weight Anchor Strap

Vendor: Regulation

Sometimes a review takes strange ways until it gets published here. Last week I have gotten a message asking for my opinion in these two toys. Having been using them for years, I wanted to send him the link to the corresponding review. But it turns out: Despite having been using them for years, I have never reviewed them! Let’s fix that!

Both Straps Unrolled

Construction

The design of the Scrotum Strap is quite simple: It is a 355mm long strap of belt leather. The lower 130mm length is 30mm wide, forming the body which then tapers to 220mm long and 15mm wide belt. Through the belt 7 holes with a 15mm center-to-center spacing are punched of which only 5 are usable. Onto the body a locking post and two 13mm wide d-rings under a slap of leather are riveted. Between the locking post and the first d-ring is a slot to thread the belt through. The Scrotum Strap comes with a pad lock.

The Sharp, Undeburred Edge of the Scrotum Strap

The basic design is also reflected in the material and manufacturing: The belt leather is stiff and neither burnished nor deburred. This means the edges are sharp until the leather is well worn in which will take quite a while. Since I rarely use the Scrotum Strap due to having several other toys to choose from, mine is still stiff and a bit sharp. If you want to speed up the breaking in-process, rub a little bit of neatsfoot oil on it and knead the toy while watching TV.

The Weight Anchor Strap borrows the basic design idea of the Scrotum Strap but develops it further. The body of the toy is made out of two layers of soft garment leather. The height depends on which version you get: The one buckle which I have has a 33mm tall body, the two buckle a 56mm tall one. On each side of the body a 180mm long and 14mm wide strap of belt leather is riveted. At the bottom a Ø19mm welded o-ring is riveted.

The Overlapping Body Protects Ball Skin from Getting Caught by the Belt

It is closed around the balls about the same way as the Scrotum Strap. On top of one strap a 240mm long and 14mm wide belt is riveted perpendicularly, while on top of the other a small roller buckle is. The belt goes through a slot inside the body and thus grips around the cuff wrapping around the sack’s neck.

Just like on the previous toy, the manufacturing is a bit basic: The perpendicular edges of the body is just bare cut-off leather without any treatment, the slot is not whipped. Since both toys are basic CBT toys you can overlook these shortcoming but considering the price compared to a set of cuff-style restraints I would have expected more.

Playing with the Scrotum Strap & Weight Anchor Strap

The Padlock to Close the Scrotum Strap

As simple as the design is, it is ingenious: You wrap the body around the sack’s neck, thread the belt end through the slot and tighten it until you reach a snug yet comfortable fit. Then you thread the belt through the d-rings and close the toy by locking it onto the sub.

As long as the leather is not broken in, the adjustment process is cumbersome: Due to the stiffness it takes some adjustment to get it around the balls tightly. Threading it through the d-rings is a nightmare because of the friction. For me, this created a bit of a vicious cycle because I had easier to use toys which I then preferred and thus never broke the Scrotum Strap in.

This is a shame because it is a nifty little toy with much potential. The smallest diameter of it is 24mm, the largest 42mm so it covers a wide range of possible scrotums. As written above due to the position of the locking pin and one of the d-rings you cannot tighten it further than the third to last hole. A friend of mine has been using his Scrotum Strap for half a decade on a regular basis. It is broken in and thus soft. He uses it with some of his slave as a reminder of belonging by simply locking it around the balls for a day or so. Unlike a chastity cage, the Scrotum Strap will not impair any everyday activity but once locked cannot be taken off. So it is a nice, psychological reminder that someone else has control over you when a locked collar, wrist or ankle chain are not an option. If you are a bit of a sadist, locking the Scrotum Strap around your sub’s balls can speed up the breaking in process. The warmth and moisture of the junk in combination with the movement will soften the leather up over time. Until then, it will be uncomfortably to wear and create some abrasions and burns.

A Shackle can be Used to Increase the Capacity of the D-Ring

For more action oriented play, the Scrotum Strap is a secure and tight anchor point on the balls. So in a full body lockdown it can be used to tie even the balls in place. In more mobile settings, I like to connect the ankle restraints to it to restrict the sub’s movement. Of course this also works with wrist restraints but my favorite is connecting the Scrotum Strap with a Handlock for minimal slack wrist-to-ball restraints.

If you want to connect the Scrotum Strap with another restraint bear in mind since the belt is threaded through the d-rings the space between the apex and the belt is only 5mm! While this might be enough for a padlock, if you want to use carabiners use them together with shackles. Another alternative are folded nylon tension straps.

The O-Ring at the Bottom of the Anchor Staps

The Weight Anchor Strap attaches to the body the same ways as the previous toy: Thread the belt through the slot and around the body to the roller buckle. Since there is not friction and the ball cuff’s body is made out of soft leather that easily wraps around the scrotum, this is quite easy. On this toy you can use all the punched holes creating a internal diameter between 27mm and 42mm. If your sub has smaller or less meaty balls, you can punch additional holes to tighten the restraint even further. For meatier balls, you have to just give it a try since the body is very soft and only stiff in the middle where the belt runs around, I managed to put the toys even on bull balls.

The softness in combination with the wide range of adjustability enables a really secure fit that is comfortable over extended periods of time even the tug on the toy is big. As the name of the toy suggests, it is made for weights. Most people use parachutes for this kind of play but they are only good for so much pulling force. If you add a momentum by letting the weight swing, the snap fastener either pops open or a ball slips through the thin ring the parachute creates. This does not happen with the Weight Anchor Strap. Since it comfortably yet securely compresses the ball’s neck, it stays in plays up to weight amounts way beyond which is medically advisable (the maximum amount of weights I have suspended from a sub’s scrotum using this toy were 10+kg. Don’t try this at home!). If you want to use climbing carabiners instead of threading rope or tension straps through the o-ring, you will have create a larger opening using shackles like with the above reviewed toy.

The Anchor Straps‘ Roller Buckle

The straps are riveted to slightly to the body that they don’t move. But they are long enough to allow for a pendulum movement. The movement stops quicker than on more freely hanging chains but the stiffness also transfers more of the kinetic energy onto the balls for an intense tug.

Of course you can also incorporate the Anchor Straps into bondage layouts by connecting them to restraints. But I found that the straps and the o-ring create more slack than the Scrotum Strap. But this is a very minor point of a toy hoarder. If you just have this one, it will perfectly work for tying down the balls or limit the subs movement by connecting either or both ankle and wrist restraints with this ball cuff.

Conclusion: Secure ball cuffs for heavy play
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Secure fit even during hard play Stiff leather which takes long to break-in Regulation £24 (Scrotum Strap)

£30 (one buckle)
£35 (two buckle)

Adjustable to wide range of ball sized Adjusting is a bit cumbersome
Once broken in comfortable to wear over extended periods of time Basic build quality

 

What to Gift ToyTorture?

Roll call! Who wants to get me something for my birthday? Nobody? Well, if anyone should change their mind, you still have six weeks to get me something 😉

The House of Bascanio Padded & Locking M5 Muzzle

Seriously, question I get asked most in online chats or conversations in bars or clubs is “You have tested everything! Is there any sex or kink toy you still need or want?” The easy part first: Need? Most certainly not! As much as I am fascinated by cleverly designed kink toys, with a bag of pervertables I can recreate the same effect though not the feeling! But because I am fascinated by cleverly designed kink toys there is a neverending lists of toys I would love to add to my collection. The selection is highly subjective because these are the toys I find personally intriguing without considering review requests. Before I write my top 5ish toys, please note: I could write an entire volume of anal toys I want. So I am leaving these toys out.

The Many, Many D-rings on the M5 Muzzle

House of Bascanio M5 Muzzle

If you have been following my bondage reviews you know, the only thing that is better than a D-ring are MOAR D-rings. The M5 Muzzle takes this to the max. How many D-rings can you fit on a head? Apparently the answer is “At least 15!” Are those all necessary? Most certainly not! Judging from my experience, 9 is the max to get the same level of fettering. Maybe even 7 are enough. But who cares? The ingenuity and craftsmanship that have cumulated into the creation into this unique piece of bondage gear in combination with the thick padding make me want to add this muzzle to my collection and put on CERTAIN subs (you know who you are).

Since the M5 Muzzle is such an extravagant piece of bondage gear, I am actually unsure about the design. Would I like it two-tone with red padding? Or just black with red stitching? But I guess in the end the practical pervert  in me would win and go for an all black I can easily clean and treat with black leather oil.

The Mr S Leather Savage Sucks Hood

And apparently my personal taste coincides with you, my reader’s taste. Looking at my little Excel sheet there are literally hundreds of review requests for this toy. So gifting me the toys would be kind of a public service.

Mr S Leather Savage Sucks and Asylum Hood

The Savage Sucks is the perfect addition to the M5 Muzzle! Dehumanizes the wearer, turn him into a multi-layer leather gimp. And if you need his tongual service, unlock the muzzle, let him serve and lock his mouth up again.

The Mr S Leather Asylum Hood

Being perforated it also is the perfect piece of gear for all those subs of me who wants or need to be anonymous. To shatter a common misconception: Even dom tops enjoy the occasional endorphin rush of being handled and played with. Sadly due to Fans-sites their livelihood depends on their image of being pure dom sadists and thus cannot be seen in public riding the pleasurable waves of pain and degradation. A perforated hood they can see through but nobody can see their face would be a great tool for those special Quälgeist visits.

To break with my rule of only five toys, here is another piece of Mr S headgear which I’d love (or hate) to have: The Asylum Hood. Hoods have never been my favorite kind of toy. I simply love to see faces react to induced sensations, lick sweat of the neck of have my ears nibbled. But I also like to have my head played with while intricate things are done. That’s why I love the Asylum Muzzle so much (along with the Bishop Head Harness). A full hood with the same features would be awesome! Just the thought of having soft, rich smelling leather hug my skull while the top adjust the many roller buckles is giving me a boner!

The Only Rubber Catsuite I would Consider

Regulation Streak Side Panel Catsuit

This item is a shocker: Fetish GEAR on ToyTorture.com? A rubber cat suit for ToyTorture? Especially a neck entry one?!

Calm down! Let me explain. Yes, to be honest: Full coverage does not do much for me. For me the tension of natural skin meeting artificial rubber is a very strong kink! Thus black cat suits are just boring for me. Especially should entry ones with their smooth chest. But a guy needs options and should broaden his horizon. So I might give a rubber cat suit a try with this one.

Maybe accessorize with the rubber bulldog harness, biceps restraints for added texture, a nice pair of sneakers and Rubber@Easter LAB can come. Naturally I would choose a black suit with red panels and strips to really pop when I am lying in the dark in the wellness hammock.

Small and Evil – The Fetters Headtrap

Since I am a Blackstyle Medium, what should I choose with Regulation?

Fetters Headtrap

Why this toy is so great, I have already written in the Christmas gift tip. Why I need this toy is easy: My playroom only looks big. With the slopes of the roof it actually has a very small usable footprint. So I need toys and furniture to make the best out of the space.

And for the Headtrap I have already found the perfect spot to store it in between use – or to store my sub away. Sadly, I have not yet had a chance to play with this piece of bondage furniture personally. But from the looks of it, it can probably easily been turned into a spanking horse. Or for party situation, it would be a perfect parking sport for the designated piss gimp.

A Basket of Oxballs Toys

In the past year, Oxballs has released so many great toys I am dying to add to my collection. But  before we come to those:

Oxballs, release the Ergo Plug Monster – NOW! I volunteer as a production sample testee!

The Oxballs Pig-Hole Squeal – Big and Textured, just what I like

In all seriousness: The shape of the Ergo Plug always looked tempting but even in its largest size, it was too small for most ass pigs. The first time I have heard about a Monster size to be in development was in late July/ early August of 2020. Sadly, developing new molds for silicone toys is not as easy as one might think. So cognitively I can understand why it took so long. But anally I crave to get stuFFed with this toy, so I hope Oxballs releases it rather sooner than later. And in rather firmer than softer silicoen.

The Matching Airhole Plug – More Texture

Speaking of soft silicone: The Pig-Hole Squeal and Airhole Plug. The first in black, the latter in red. Perfect combination for a texture junkie like me! And would be a much needed addition to my collection of six Oxballs tunnel plugs. I have already cleared the space in my toy shelve for three new Oxballs anal toys so I am waiting.

If you have been following this website since its earlieast beginnings in the fall of 2012 you know how much love I have had for ball stretching toys. Especially from Oxballs! Stretchers, stackers, slings, splitters – you name it. I have it, I love them. Or rather loved them. Having lost my left testicle last summer and waiting for getting a prosthesis some time this summer, I don’t know if I will ever love these toys like I have before.

… and the matching Vibration Bullets

So these toys represent hope for me! Hope that my beloved lowhangers will look and at least in the hands of another man feel the same! Hope that with their weight the skin will extend again despite the big scar and make my junk as bulky again as it was yesteryear.

The Squeeze is one of my fav ball stratchers because it combines tug with stretch. Adding weights to it or vibration? Count me in!

Is it a ball stretcher? Is it a parachute? It is both!

But I might need some training until I can fit the Squeeze again and here the Tug comes in. I already loved Oxballs Slung though it was a bit cumbersome to put on. This looks better, more fun and screams for “Put me on while lying in a sling, connect me to a thread above the spread bar and let a weight dangle!” This is very specific for my playroom layout but since this is my personally wish list, I shamelessly force my fantasies on you!

 

So much for my dream gifts for what we in Germany call half-round birthday. Let’s see what I will be unwrapping Friday morning in six weeks.

Fetters Leather Arm Binder

The Fetters Arm Binder

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

The center piece of the Arm Binder is a restraint body made out of soft and deliciously smelling garment leather. While it gently wraps around the sub’s body, at 1mm thickness it is sturdy and strong! The restraint roughly has the shape of a sleeping bag’s bottom. The opening at the top is 42cm wide and tapers over the length of 69cm to 12cm at the bottom. This lavish amount of room allows the restraint to be used on all body types, from beefy muscle bulls to slender twinks.

To adjust the sizing and increase the level of bondage, there are two mechanisms. On top of the body there is a rivet reinforced lacing ladder which goes 2/3 down. It is underlaid with a sheet of leather so hair or skin folds do not get caught in the lacing. Onto the back three loops – one on top, on 1/3 and one 2/3 down – out of sturdy bridle leather are riveted. Through these loops belts with roller buckles are threaded. Again, the belts are long yet the holes are punched so far that they are long enough for bigger builds yet can be closed tightly for petit physiques.

The restraint body is fettered to the torso with a simple X-harness using roller buckles. One pair sits on each side of the lacing, another of the leather sack’s back. The roller buckles are held in place by riveted leather loops for a secure fit. The loops are made out of the same 30mm wide bridle leather belts as the harness and the tightening belts.

The Roller Buckle on the Stiff Version of the Bridle Leather Belts

And now we are coming to a part difficult part in this review: The bridle leather on the Arm Binder I am basing this review on is stiff and uncomfortable. Because of this I reached out to Regulation/ Fetters and they assured me that they switched the leather to a softer and thus more flexible variety earlier this year (I have gotten my Arm Binder in March 2021). To make my Arm Binder more usable, I actually commissioned new belts and the harness in the new, softer leather but due to Covid I have not yet gotten these.

Long story short: As you can read below, I like the Arm Binder a lot because they are a hot and kind of degrading toy. But especially for long term scenes, they are only fun when the softer leather is used! As soon as I have gotten the new belts and harness, I will annex this review. As always, if you want to be kept in the loop about such things, follow me on Twitter.

Lateral Belts for Extra Secure & Tight Bondage

Playing with the Leather Arm Binder

Putting the Arm Binders on is easy: The sub simple needs to put his arms behind his back and you pull the restraint body over them. To make it easier, the bottom should fold his hands. The bottom of the leather sack is quite tight yet it is spacious enough for larger hands. But if you want to tie the sub’s hands together, leather cuff restraints or special ones like the awesome Fetters Handlock take up too much space. So if you feel the need to tie them, I recommend soft Velcro quick restraints. But to be honest: Such additional restraints are purely for the mindfuck. Once the harness and the restraint body are connected, there is little chance for the sub to get his arms free.

For safe and long-term play, the harness should rest lightly against the torso and the restraint body should hang as loosely as the arms would. There should be a little wiggle room so the sub can move his shoulders before they become stiff and to ensure circulation. You can tighten the straps more, pulling the arms up. This is a form of stress bondage and should not be done over extended periods of time and monitored closely. The same rules apply to the belts. Tighten them loosely for lightly restraining the sub while increasing both the bondage feeling and inescapability. Tighten them more and you end up with intense stress bondage. Please keep in mind that through the leverage of the belt you can quickly wield strong force on the elbows and shoulders. Both are frailer joints so be careful and don’t overdo it force and time wise!

The Lacing for a Tight Fettering

So much for health and safety. Now on to the fun part. If you fetter the belts in a non-stress tightness, the Leather Arm Binder are great “mobile” restraints. You can put your sub in them for extended periods of time, render his arms useless while he can walk around and has his body more or less exposed for play.  This makes the arm binder the perfect bar/ club restraint. Unlike straitjackets which are equally comfortable over long periods of time but limit the access to the torso, the bottom in these can be easily be expose to chest and gut punching, TT or CBT. Naturally, it is a good piece of bondage gear for group scenes when a sub needs to be “parked”.

On my first look at the toy, I would have wished for D-rings on the side. But in play, I rarley missed them. In the cases where I had to secure my bottom laterally, I simply used carabiners or shackles on the tightening belts as anchor points. Yes, D-rings would be more refined and keep the restricting belts from movement. But they are not essential for enjoying this restraint. As I have written: The Arm Binder is a perfect toy for mobile play. If you want to secure a sub safely laterally on his arms I would recommend  Fetters’ Full Sleeve Bondage Mitts which have plenty of D-rings.

At the Bottom there is a D-Ring for multiple Nifty and Nasty Intricacies

The one D-ring at the bottom is a nifty one though. For a bit of CBT, it can be connected to a chastity cage or a ball stretcher. Since the arm movement is quite limited, the chances of an accident are low. My preferred bondage layout though was running a piece of rope or chain through it to for connecting two ankle restraints. This will properly limit his step range and keeps him from running away. If you want to humiliate him even more, use the D-ring as the anchor point for the leash instead of the collar, focusing the attention onto his groin.

Finally, if you sub needs fuck machine training, this is a good piece of bondage gear to keep the arms out of interferings way when the sub is on a bench. Even when bound in doggy position, the arms can be used to pull forward and escape the machine a bit. With the arms behind the back (preferably lightly suspended upwards) there is little wiggle room. And quite frankly, the image is very hot!

Conclusion: Effective body restraint from light to stress bondage.
Pros Cons Where to get Price
Comfortable and secure to wear even over extended periods of time Few lateral D-rings would be great Regulation £264.99
Bondage intensity finely adjustable
Hot looking bondage positions with good access to “pressure” points

Fetters Portable Bondage Board

The Fetters Portable Bondage Board

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

The product name of this piece of bondage equipment is pretty descriptive: It is a bondage board that can be folded in the middle.

First, let’s look at its bottom. Two wide and sturdy hinges keep both sides aligned with each other even during heavy play and fold together smoothly. In order not to damage the precious hardwood floor in Fidelio-passworded play mansions four thick rubber bumpers are stapled onto the cloth-lined bottom (if you are too young for this reference, watch “Eyes Wide Shut”). On each side of the top there is a powerful neodymium magnet keeping both sides securely together when folded. In order to carry the board around comfortably, a piece of nylon strap is mounted on the middle of each side. On one side a nice stainless steel Fetters badge is screwed between the two ends of the carrying loop. Folded together the board is 53.5cm tall, 60cm wide and about 10cm deep. Unfolded you naturally get a bondage surface of 60x107cm.

The D-rings Folded Up

The body of the board is made out of sturdy wood boards padded with thick firm yet comfortable foam. The play surface on the top is either lined with leather or a material called Rubluxe which is a rubberized fabric that is both oil- and waterproof. For fettering D-rings with an inner width of 39mm, inner height of 32mm and almost absurd wire strength of 6mm are used. They are mounted to the board putting each below a wide and thick piece of bridle leather which is hold in place with four screws. There are six D-rings on each side and one at each end. So in total there are a whopping 14 bondage points around the board.

Due to all this heavy duty materials and workmanship the board weighs 10kg.

The Footprint of the Folded Bondage Board

Playing with the Portable Bondage Board

Most subs I have introduced to this piece of bondage equipment where initially skeptical. Could such relatively compact piece of gear work as a secure basis for bondage? The torsional stiffness of the hinges, the thick and sturdy boards and massive D-rings which are massively mounted onto the board in combination with a tight fettering allow for little wiggle room. So despite being portable and relatively light, it is a good, secure piece of bondage furniture! These are good news especially for those who travel a lot or have to store away their play gear below a bed or in a wardrobe once the session is over. One of my testees bought his one especially for play parties and cons. He likes to play public but wants a piece of furniture of his own when the provided play furniture is occupied or when there is only little space, for example on the side lines of a mosh.

Most people will probably only use the Portable Bondage Board folded open. But even folded together and using only one side, it is a nifty piece of play furniture. Due to the smaller footprint, it easily fits in the corner of a room and thus works perfectly as a slave parking spot. Despite resting on padding, there is little rocking or movement so a sub can safely stand on it, his ankles and maybe even balls being tied to the D-rings. But the area of just half a board is even large enough for a sub to kneel down onto. This way you can of course tie the ankles, thighs and wrists to the boards for an even more intense bondage scenario.

The Fetters Badge and Left the Small yet Powerful Neodymium Magnet

Of course the board shines the most when lying down. It is long enough to cover the torso and the thighs of most subs (up to about 1.90m body height) so it covers most joints and limbs. There are countless different positions you can tie your sub to it: From lying and sitting over kneeling to standing, from comfortable long term bondage over painful stress positions. There are some easy to recreate examples on Regulation’s product page. But the Portable Bondage Board encourages you to be creative and push the limits of your sub’s flexibility. I even managed to tie two subs on the same board, kneeling either back to back or facing each other. If you then introduce a flexible double ended dildo or a pair of nipple clamps, you can create very interesting and intense play on a little space.

A Jimsupport Rim placed on the Bondage Board

For the actual bondage process, you can use different means. If you don’t want to add additional restraints, you can use rope or my beloved Velcro quick restraints. The D-rings are large enough to house several ropes at the same time. Their weldseam is below the leather flap so the ropes run smoothly through the D-rings. When using cuff style leather, rubber or neoprene restraints, the D-rings are wide enough to thread a restraint’s belt directly through the D-ring. While this limits the restraint’s and thus the sub’s movement the most, in case of an emergency you would have to cut the belt itself, destroying the restraint. Of course, human health and security always goes over gear preservation. So my recommended way of attaching restraints to the bondage board is using tension straps. Inexpensive to replace if cut yet almost as effective as directly connection restraint and board.

A question I get asked in almost every reader question is “Which lining material should I choose?” For my board, I chose leather and being made by Fetters it did not disappoint: It is soft yet feels strong, the grain is subtle but noticeable and the smell is intoxicatingly good. If you “just” want to fetter someone to the board, it is a good choice! But leather is a little bit higher maintenance, does not like wetness or messy stuff. So if your bottoms leak a lot of pre-cum or you want to get piggy go for Rubluxe. And to all those fellow pigs out there: The space between the D-rings is about the clearing between the legs of a Jim Support Adjustable Rim Chair, depending on the seat height. Simply fix the legs with tensions straps to the D-rings, maybe fix your bottom to the D-rings and pig out.

Speaking of Rubluxe: The bondage board is also a great fisting base when traveling. The lining is thick enough for a bottom to go both comfortably in doggy or lying on his back. The board itself is a stable base even on soft hotel mattresses. When lying on his back, the combination of ankle restraints and tension straps anchored on the D-rings next to his head can create a travel sling-like layout without putting draft on the bottom’s neck. But for this play, the Rubluxe surface is clearly the superior one for his kind of play. Of course you can put a pad below the fistees ass when using the leather version. But as always, lube finds its way around and as soon as the bottom starts to piss you are in for an intense cleaning session.

The Hinge

Speaking off piss, the rubber bumpers on the bottom give your 7mm ground clearance.  So a Rubluxe covered bondage board can also be used to detain a urinal bottom as long as there is no standing piss which could soak the board from the bottom.

Since the board must not fold when putting pressure on the seam in the middle, it folds inwards not outwards. This means that the padded surface is always on the outside, exposed to potential damages. To protect these sides, I highly recommend ordering the canvas carrying bag for £35 along with the board, especially when you are going to travel with your board!

Conclusion: Effective and versatile yet portable piece of bondage furniture.
Pros Cons Where to get Price
Many D-rings for creative bondage and intense bondage Storage bag is a must purchase when traveling with it Regulation £245
Really sturdy yet somewhat portable
Two options for lining depending on usage scenario and fetish

ToyTorture’s Stocking Stuffer II – Fetters Headtrap

Jesse bound in the Fetters Headtrap

Last year I have already recommended a piece of nimble and nifty bondage furniture for people who cannot or do not want to have a playroom or who travel to events often. This got so much positive feedback that today’s gift recommendation is just that. And again, the Headtrap comes from Fetters which seems to become a specialist for small footprint bondage furniture.

The Parts of the Fetters Headtrap

The Headtrap is basically a small cage without the bars on the side. There is only a piece to trap the head. The rest of the fettering is done attaching restraints to the anchor points, one in each corner. Since there are no bars, the limbs can be places outside of the frame. So with a footprint of just 45x50cm or 50×75.5cm – depending if you put the cage upside or longside – you have a effectively immobilized your sub. The Headtrap comes with a tickly padded plate so you can sit inside the bars. If you add the included locking wheels, you can even push him around. Perfect for a party setting or if you do a long-term scene and want to take your sub with you when you leave the room.

From the pictures it looks that to assemble you just need to tighten 8 screws which seems quick. On the product it says it collapses to five flat pieces so it should be easy to store and if you have a car somewhat easy to transport to your event hotel room (I have seen rim chair on hotel luggage carts at Folsom Europe so…).  Sadly there is no word on the weight. So I guess one of you will have to buy one and tell me 😉

The Fetters Headtrap costs £549 at Regulation in London.

Mordax

Form: Anthro Dildo
Material: Platinum Silicone
Colors: Red & Charcoal Marble and Blue
Firmness: Soft
Lube: Water, Oil
Cleaning: Soaking in hot water with dish-soap than use sanitizer.
Safer Sex: Clean and sanitize it thoroughly
Storage: Store in a well-ventilated place not touching other toys to prevent damage.

The Topped Toys Mordax

Vendor: Regulation/ Mr S

Construction

Mordax starts out with a dullish realistic glans that peaks out from a foreskin-like cover.  The shaft is textured with scale-like bulges that come together in a clapboard-like cluster in the back. The bulges drops are quite steeply and range from 2.5mm depth at the top up to 7mm in the middle. Two big realistic balls form the base which gives the toy a secure stand even when riding it hard. Speaking of fucking, at the bottom there is a 10mm hole with threading for attaching Mordax to a fuck machine. The small diameter allows to attach even the small 13mm threaded attachment system some companies use yet the silicone is soft enough for pushing a standard 22mm Vac-u-Lock adapter inside – with some force. The same force is needed to pull the toy off again which cased the silicone around the hole to tear a bit. I have use the adapter only a few times so I have no idea how the situation in the long run. If it should get worse, I will tweet about it.

As all toys from Topped Toys, the Mordax is made out of Shore 00-34 firm platinum silicone. This material is 100% body safe, hypo allergenic toy with a super-smooth surface for easy cleaning and insertion. Slight drawback is that silicone lube must not be used with silicone toys because the silicone oil in it will destroy the material in the long run. You can choose between two colors: Blue or for a little premium a nice marble of red & charcoal that even has a little, very subtle glitter in it.

Size Diameter Head Diameter Above Base Insertable Length
90 53mm 74mm 254mm
105 56mm 84mm 280mm
115 68mm 93mm 305mm

Mordax‘ Deep Scales

Playing with the Mordax

Topped Toys started out making toys for people who want to train their hole and quickly became popular with beginners. So I often get messages of the Mordax or Erebus is a toy to start out with getting into texture. To be frank, the Mordax is definitively not for beginners! The dullish glans requires a loose hole to slip in. If you can barely take the glans, the rest of the toy will not be much fun because even with much lube the scales will feel painful. My rule of thumb is, if you can comfortably take a Gape Keeper one size larger than the Mordax you chose, you will enjoy this toy.

The densely packed, deep, thick yet soft scales are perfect to stimulate the many nerve endings inside the anus. The texture is so dense that there is now low intensity which gets more and more intense the quicker it goes in and out. Since the material is very bendy and soft, there is not much prostate stimulation, especially on the 90, until you reach the bottom of the shaft. To get so far down Mordax has to go deep. Due to the soft material and the scales, it is very bendy so it will find its way inside your rectum. But: The dull glans need to open up the second sphincter. Once inside your colon, the scales start to stimulate this very sensitive body area – hard!

Mordax‘ dullish glans

Because of this, I recommend getting to know Mordax on your own, learn about alls his kinks and prepare yourself for the intense surprises it has in store. This way you do not surprisingly tense up when it hits a sensitive spot. But once you have reached this point, laying relaxed in the sling and getting vigorously fucked but Mordax is pure bliss!

Where to buy?

Both Mr S and Regulation sell the Mordax only in 105 and 115 for prices between $144.95 to £239 depending on the size and color.