Lederbondage Leather Sleepsack

Vendor: Lederbondage.com

Let’s start this review with a bit of German leather history: About 1 ½ decades ago, there was a kinky leather craftsman working for VW in Wolfsburg. By day he clad car interiors in leather, by night he crafted some exceptional pieces of bondage gear – including as far as I know ten sleepsacks which are called “VW sleepsacks” by their owners. I could not find out for what reason but this guy stopped making gear over a decade ago.

The Lederbondage.com Leather Sleepsack

Fast forward to the nowish time. One of my closest friends happens to own one of those sleepsacks. He knew I wanted one for my playroom so he got in touch with my other friends and they pooled for the birthday gift. He got in touch with a local leather tailor, sent his sleepsack as a sample, got my measurements and asked what features my ideal sleepsack should have and now after 2 ¼ years and many messages, I am reviewing one of the signature pieces of bondage gear in my playroom.

Detail of the Collar with the V-neck opening and Locking Roller Buckle

Construction

The cocoon-like body of the sleepsack is made out of 1.4mm thick medium-grain cow hide which is really soft. The entire sleepsack is lined with this hide so you end up with an almost 3mm thick layer of leather. But since the leather is so soft, is does not feel stiff but just hugs the sub’s body.

What now follows is all individually bespoke and can be crafted to your desires and needs. I went for a traditional neck to foot zipper. It is the easiest way to get into a sleepsack and especially in long-term scenarios more comfortable than to lay on a back zipper. I chose five runner for my zipper to create different opening for the crotch for example. To be honest, in all the play I had with the sleepsack, I only needed three runner (one to close, two to open up the crotch), because I ordered my sleepsack with tit flaps for easy nipple access. They measure 13x13cm on the outside with giving access to an area of 10x10cm and are attached using Velcro. The inside is smooth leather but I am sure you can also get it with spikes and pins for continuous stimulation.

Detail of the D-rings of Rope Tightening

I chose several means to increase the bondage and leather encapsulation sensation. First, there is the collar. It is attached to the sleepsack with a wide v-neck in the front so it ends with my jaw line without being uncomfortable around the neck. Through this design there is no gap between a hood and the sleepsack and if I want to wear a muzzle or a hood with an attached collar, it still fits because the zipper ends below the neck. Around the collar there is a belt with a locking roller buckle and D-rings for the psychological effect of being locked inside the sleepsack. It is a purely psychological effect because once your arms are inside the arm pockets which I commissioned and the zippers are closed, any person with my rough body shape is not able to escape the sleepsack.

Detail of the Belt’s Roller Buckle

On each side of the sleepsack, there are 8 welded 7mm wire strength stainless steel D-rings riveted with leather flaps using six rivets. Through these thick bridle leather belts with double thorn roller buckles can be threaded to increase the bondage tightness or adjust the fit if you are slimmer than me. In addition to them, there are 8 smaller D-rings with “just” one rivets attached each side of the zipper. They are for threading rope through them for an ever tighter bondage and adding a different color to the all black sleepsack. On each shoulder and on the feet pocket there is another big D-ring. While they can be used to tied the sleepsack to the bed, I added them to be suspended inside the sleepsack either hanging on the shoulders or in a hammock like setup.

In order to unleash the true long-term potential of the sleepsack, I commissioned a cushion to put between the legs. This way there is not friction on the ankles and knees which would limit the time inside the sleepsack. The firmness of foam is soft enough to be comfortable jet firm enough to keep the joints from pressing against each other. The seam is one big piping so it is completely smooth.

Detail of the Padded Leg Devider

Another advantage of having your sleepsack made by a leather tailor is that each sleepsack is made to measure. He does not simply purchase a sleepsack body and adds straps and D-rings as the customers asks, but builds everything from scratch. Through this, he knows his product inside out and if necessary can do alterations. Last year, I worked out my thighs a bit too much and gained so much muscle mass that I could not close the zipper around the legs anymore. I just send it in and he added two pieces of leather just around my thighs so the sleepsack maintained his overall fit. While the sleepsack feels solid and is made for scenes and generations to come, if you are nitpicky, you will little aesthetic flaws like not all rivets being set in exactly the same way, some belt holes might be a bit off. After all, he is not Mr S who make dozens of sleepsacks every year, but these little points does not affect the functionality. I gladly oversee these little flaws for having a leather sleepsack which is exactly how I want it to be. Also, he has made several of them since he made mine so I guess he gathered some experience making them by now.

Detail of the D-rings around the Sleepsack

Naturally, all that leather and metal comes at a weight. In my case, almost 10kg. Even when packed tightly, it is almost a quarter cubic meter. I have taken this sleepsack to events in Berlin but it is not the most handy piece of bondage gear to travel with, especially when you do not travel by car.

As I written, this sleepsack was tailored to my demands and expectations. The original VW sleepsacks did not have D-rings on the sleesack but on the belts which were equipped with locking posts. So before ordering one, my recommendation is to try out some different sleepsacks (if possible) to figure out how your sleepsack needs to look like!

Playing with Leather Sleepsack

If you are a regular reader, you will most likely notice that a few weeks ago, I reviewed a rubber sleepsack. The big question is: Why another, way more expensive one?

Detail of the Tit Flaps

First, there is a fetish aspect. Some people like leather, other like rubber. I like both.

So the major point is that inside a leather sleepsack the feeling of bondage is more intense. While rubber will stretch, leather does not give in. You are confined to the shell of a thick, heavy leather cocoon. Leather is the most common material in bondage because it is strong. You can fight, you can struggle, you can stretch, you can grab and (try to) tear. The leather will not give in. This also impact the tightening process. With the rubber sleepsack I have to be careful when threading the rope through the D-rings and tightening it. On this one, I can tug and pull to really get it tight without having to worry to rip the rivet out of the material.

Detail of the Shoulder D-rings for Suspension Bondage

Because of these properties, the leather sleepsack is for heavier play or subs who like to struggle. With the D-rings around the sleepsack, it can easily be tied down so there is no wiggle room left for the sub. This comes in handy when inducing intense amounts of agony like through electro, CBT or milking. The tit flaps are large enough to expose the nipples to wax. And while wax does not destroy leather, it tarnishes the surface so some level of care is necessary.

For floaty bondage, it depends on your style. As soft as the leather is, it still maintains some level of stiffness. The thickness isolates the bottom from his surroundings. Because of that, the belts around the sleepsack are so wide that when tightening them the sub really feels the force and strength of the top. Add to that the weight of the leather and the feeling of being bound and helpless is more intense than in a rubber sleepsack.

Detail of the Arm Pockets

In a normal playroom setting leather also offers a bit more comfort than rubber. Since the leather is so thick it regulates the temperature quite well as long as the room temperature is at a normal level and the sleepsack does not lay in the open sun. Being a natural material, it also absorbs some level of sweat. This is also the downside of leather. Unlike rubber it is very difficult to clean – especially a large piece of gear as a sleepsack. So if the scene should be long-term, I recommend putting a diaper on the sub. Because leather is so comfortable and the sweating is not really noticed unlike in rubber, hydration and overheating can become a problem. So check in with the sub regularly and maybe open a little gap in the zipper to check his body.

Conclusion: Very well made leather sleepsack with loads of extras and a few beauty flaws.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Made to measure with extras tailored to the sub’s requirements Little imperfections in the manufacturing execution tarnish overall outstanding quality Lederbondage.com Around 1.500€ depending on the extras and shipping
Lavish amount of D-rings for intense
Ordering process more difficult and longer compared to off the rack sleepsack
bondage Suspension capability
Top notch leather and metal trim quality
Exceptional value for money

 

Fetters Leather Chest Binder Restraints

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

Detail of the Torso Belt’s Closing Mechanism Using a Lock

The main body of this restraint is a 10cm wide belt made out of 3mm thick bridle leather. On one end there is a locking pin (which naturally comes with a lock) and on the other 15 rivet reinforced holes are punched to adjust the circumference between 94cm and 123cm so you can fetter almost any body type – from twink over body builder to stocky bear – with this restraint. For a more comfortable fit even during extended scenes, the bridle leather is lined with soft garment leather.

Onto this body, two sets of restraints are riveted: An upper arm on the side and a wrist restraint in the front. The follow the same design scheme with bridle leather body and garment leather lining. Their closing mechanism is the same as the one on the Fetters Locking Restraints: A 3cm wide belt, closed with a roller buckle and shut with a locking pin. They are attached using only one rivet so they can twist and turn to accommodate different anatomies. Into the buckle of the upper arm restraints there is D-ring integrated. Another attachment point is a D-ring in the front between the wrist restraints which is hold in place by a piece of leather and four rivets.

The Fetters Chester Binder Restraints

Detail of the Garment Leather Lining and the Edge of the Body’s Bridle Leather

As high quality the materials and craftsmanship of the Chester Binder Restraints are – like every toy and piece of gear made in the workshops of Fetters – a little drop of bitterness are the edges of the restraints. The lining is slightly larger than the rigid leather on the outside so when pressed against the body it covers to some extend the hard edge of it. But still, I would have wished for the outer leather to be dyed and burnished or to put a piping around all the edges for the edges to be line with the overall quality feel and craftsmanship of the toy.

Detail of the Central D-Ring

Playing with the Chest Binder Restraints

When I first got these restraints, my testees and I saw them more as a “mobile” restraint: While rendering the torso and its limbs almost completely useless, the sub can still move around. So the restraints are great for pride, street fairs or party setting where he should still be able to walk while enjoying an intense bondage experience. In clubs the D-rings come in handy because with them the sub can be easily fixed to a post or tied in a frame when he needs some timeout. It lies in the nature of the design of this toy that the nipples are not accessible. However they are good for flogging (novice tops) because the leather belt is a good divider between the area that can be hit and the one which should not. The floggee should have some experience already though because maintaining posture by just leaning against the cross and not hands to stabilize oneself is a challenge of its own – and can introduce a hot element of discipline and punishment if failing to.

The Chest Binder Restraints quickly won the favor of one of my testee panel tops who likes the aesthetic of classic fetish attire like leather uniforms or rubber cat suits and thus dislikes the coverage of straitjackets. Unlike straitjackets, the hands are free in these restraints which opens up a whole world of interesting tasks: Holding the ash tray for the top or a tablet in a cocktail party is almost stress bondage. Another possibility is to make the housework more difficult through the extremely limited range of hand and arm movement. If heavier bondage is desired, simply close the wrist restraints slightly below the wrist and add either Padded Fist Mitts or Bondage Mitts which can be connected to a (muzzle’s) collar.

Detail of the Upper Arm Restraint’s Closing Mechanism inlcuding a Roller Buckle, Locking Pin and a D-Ring

During one scene with a pain pig, I discovered the “stationary” potential of the Chest Binder Restraints. It is great tool to effectively fetter the torso and the upper arms in a lay-down bondage setup. Before the Chest Binder Restraints, I had to put the subs into a bondage harness which while effective, took quite some time to adjust and still left the upper arms unbound. With the D-rings on the side (and maybe running a tension strap through the front D-ring), the torso is effectively kept from getting up. A downside is the locking pin pressing into the back of the sub. Adding a small cushion can soften it, so he can stay bound for extended periods of time.

Conclusion: Extravagant, multipurpose restraints with almost perfect build quality.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Almost complete immobilization of the arms while allowing to move around Edges of the restraints are not as well executed as the could be Regulation £148.99
Sub still (somehow) able to serve while bound
Enough D-rings for more complex bondage layouts
Leaves gear visible, most of the body accessible and does not a lot of coverage in hot environments

Leather Suspension Harness

The Blackjump Leather Suspension Harness

Vendor: Blackjump

Construction

Like with all heavy duty bondage items, the first look should always be on the material and manufacturing quality in order to see if the gear will actually detain a struggling sub. This is even more important with a suspension harness because an equipment failure will not only ruin a scene but can potentially cause injuries!

This Blackjump model is beyond any doubt. All straps are made out of sturdy, 2mm thick and 50mm wide belt leather (except the one across the chest which is 30mm wide). Points with crucial load bearing or extreme kinetic stress either feature double leather layers or four instead of just two rivets. Equally important is the protection of fragile and vulnerable body parts from the stiff leather belts digging in. For this thick and stiff foam under soft leather is used so even under a lot of pressure you do not feel the leather and metal below the padding. The hardware is also supreme: The D-rings are welded and made out of thick steel, the buckles are sturdy roller buckles.

Detail of the Double Lay Leather to extra-reinforce the Suspension D-ring

All these ingredients are mixed together into what appears fairly simple design which in the details shows a lot of thought. The torso part is basically two belts with holes on both ends, riveted to an X with one rivet on the back so the angle between the two belts can adjust easily depending on the sub’s body size. To protect collarbone and the shoulders, there are pads which can be attached to the belts with snaps. Though mine have been lost when I have bought this harness from a friend; I need to reorder them again. On the apex of both belts there is a D-ring from which this harness gets suspended. Just above the belt holes in front there is a horizontal strap riveted with a roller buckle to tighten the harness in front of the chest.

Using four buckles, these straps are connected to the piece de resistance of this suspension harness: The roughly bone-shaped, padded pelvic-protection. Since there are no muscles and rarely a thick layer of fat over the pelvis, this body area is very sensitive to abrasions. Because of this it has to be padded, either through a pad (like Mr S does) or through a padded belt (like Fetters does). Blackjump goes further. He extends the padding over the stomach region onto the lower rib cage to also protect this fragile body part. In order to maintain the flexibility and adjustability of the harness, the padding is not only ergonomically shaped, but middle part which goes over the stomach section is with 60mm only 40% as wide as the 140mm wide padding to the pelvis and rib cage. A little drawback of the heavy duty design is that the rivets which connect the belts with the padding are not covered by leather.

Detail of the Padding Protecting the Pelvis and Rib Cage

The four buckles on the upper end of the padding allow to adjust the harness the bottom’s body size. It is very adjustable; I suspended people from 1,69m to 2,05m and thin twinks to heavier bears with no problem. From my experience with leather as a material and without any guarantee I would say the breaking load of this harness is somewhere between 150kg and 180kg. Below the buckles of the back there is also a D-ring riveted. To my knowledge it is the only fetish suspension who has these D-rings but they are very important when the sub is not flying high (see below). On the bottom there is a belt attached which go around the thigh. To also protect this delicate body area (see below), there a 100mm wide and 350mm long padded “sleigh” running on the strap so regardless of the length adjustment is always cover the back part of the thigh.

At least when my friend bought the harness some 10 years ago, it came with a sturdy suspension bar. On both ends quick links are welded onto the bar, the actually suspension is attached to a triangle ring welded onto the middle. From the quick links 350mm of 6mm wire gauge chain are suspended. The actually harness is suspended using pear clips which the avid reader knows I am not a big fan off. Though since they are never actually opened the sharpness does not really play a role. And at least the ones I have a certified for 230 daN. So I can hardly imagine a strong, heavy muscle bear exceeding the dynamic breaking load of 469kg + safety margin…

Detail of the Back Buckle with D-ring

Playing with the Suspension Harness

For me suspension bondage, especially in a harness and using rope, is the ultimate form of mindfuck bondage: You are free to move around yet unable to escape. To achieve this level of mindfuck, the sub needs to be suspended so high that his toes can’t touch the ground and his hands can’t touch anything. If you do not have a gymnasium for a playroom, this can be difficult. The extreme situation is my playroom where some subs have to crouch to get into the harness with the suspension bar above them. To still get the sub helpless, put ankle restraints on him and connect them to the D-rings on the back. Depending on the degree of helplessness, fetter the hands using suspension restraints to the suspension bar or to the D-ring to which the thigh belt is connected. In the latter position for added stress, upper arm restraints can be connected to the back D-rings. However, I would not recommend to subject to sub to too much pain in this situation because due to the limited upper arm movement  he can quickly pull something.

The design of the straps and belts allow for maximum accessibility for sensation play over TT and CBT to spanking and even flogging. Particularly fun are e-stim scenes with movement triggered units like the Electrastim Flick Duo or Axis. Once the sub starts to work the pain out, self-sustaining system of constant movement is set in motion which keeps the stimulation coming and coming.

Detail of the Suspension Bar and Chains

The feeling of flying can also heighten the sensations of more traditional play like getting fucked or fisted. The free movement of the harness creates a way stronger swinging action than a sling does. While a suspension harness seems like a natural match for a milking machine, I made not the best experience with my Venus 2000. The body’s natural reaction to an intense sensation is flinching, pulling the penis out of the receiver. Just suspending the receiver from the chest strap also proved to instable. I have seen people converting cock sheaths into attachment points for the receiver so this might work.

Detail of the Thigh Padding

As hot and fun suspension bondage is, it is also one of the most dangerous forms of bondage due to the risk of suspension trauma. In short suspension bondage is the blood gathering in the legs when being suspended for an extended period of time which will cause a circulatory collapse. Symptoms are sweating, breathlessness, dizziness, feeling sick, dropping blood pressure or numbness. If any of these symptoms occur, get the sub out of the harness but NEVER LAY HIM DOWN! During suspension trauma the heart tries to pump the blood up with ever increasing force. Laying him down would cause the blood to shoot into the torso and brain, basically killing him! This is called rescue death. To prevent this, for the first 20 to 30 minutes, keep the torso in an upright position. A suspension trauma is not a “miner circulation crash” but a serious medical emergency and requires professional help! Drugs which increase blood pressure and/ or open up the blood vessels like poppers can increase the likelihood of suspension trauma. While the thick padding on critical areas makes the appearing of a suspension trauma unlikely, a suspended sub (like all bound subs) should never be left alone and a suspension scene should never go over extended periods of time. Furthermore it is important to talk with the sub about the potential symptoms before a scene so he can draw the top’s attention to problems early enough and does not dismiss them out of mislead will to be obedient.

Speaking of safely suspending someone: If you want to really lift the sub after fettering him in the harness, I highly recommend getting a professional winch for liability reasons. Considering dynamic loads, you should get one with over 1,000kg carrying load!

Conclusion: Bes fetish suspension harness I have come across yet.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Great craftsmanship out of high quality materials Takes forever to break in Blackjump Ca. 250€
Thick and ample padding for comfortable and safe scenes over extended periods of time
D-rings in all relevant places
Comes with suspension hardware

 

Leather Straitjacket

The HML Fetish Leather Straitjacket

Vendor: HML Fetish

After the past weeks were all about anal toys, the Sundays will follow a different tune: It will be all about heavy bondage. So expect reviews of sleepsacks, hoods, extravagant restraints – and straitjackets.

One of the most common questions in the realm of heavy bondage is: Where do I get a good, reasonably priced straitjacket? Despite most heavy bondage items like sleepsacks or straitjackets are once-in-a-life-time purchases, not everybody can afford the mid-four-digit price tags of Mr S or Fetters straitjackets. On the other end of the price spectrum there are cheaply made models from Asia which cardboard-like leather from questionable sources and unreliable metal fixtures. So I did some research for something in between and found this model from HML Fetish in Bremen.

Detail of the Straps for Tightening the Straitjacket at the Back

Construction

Since a straitjacket is most likely be worn on the bare skin in order not to overheat, let’s talk about the material first. HML Fetish uses high quality, European sourced cow hides so you do not have to worry about Chrome-6. The leather of the jacket itself is 1mm thick which is a good compromise between the feeling of being clad in leather, the leather fitting well around the body and temperature control .The inside of the jacket is not lined but since all metal fixtures are made out of stainless steel, neither allergies nor rust should be a too big problem. Knowing HML Fetish I am pretty sure they can line the jacket with leather if you ask them. Despite the price point just below 1.000€, you get premium features like thickly quilted leather on the elbows which is a nice touch and keeps the elbows protects when the sub is made to crawl on the ground while being fettered. Another great feature are the nipple flats which measure roughly 10x10cm. Six sturdy snaps are keeping them in place so even a very actively struggling sub cannot get them off.

Detail of the Quilting over the Elbows

Like most straitjackets, the HML Fetish one is closed by a zipper. Then going down from head to waist there is a belt around the collar, one going around the chest and upper arm and one around the waist. These straps are led but leather straps riveted onto the body. On the back, two additional belts going over the zipper to tighten the jacket properly around the body. Like all straitjackets the arms are crossed over the chest with a belt strap on the end of the left arm and a buckle strap on the right arm. Once they are closed together behind the back, there is a strap in the middle of the front to secured them tightly and limit any potential wiggle room. Finally, there are two straps which run through the crotch to prevent the more than unlikely possibility that with crossed arms the jacket could be pulled off.

All straps are made out of 1.5mm thick cow hides which is doubled, glued and sowed all around which gives the straps a nice quality feel and touch of craftsmanship. The belt holes are reinforced with stainless steel rivets so the buckle’s pin does not damage the leather. The strap around the waist, the collar and the once securing the arm in front of the torso are about 40mm wide, all other straps are 25mm.

Detail of the D-Ring at the Bottom of the Body

There is only one D-ring on the entire straitjacket: In the middle of the torso, just above the waist seam. Again, when ordering this straitjacket, get in touch with the guys at HML Fetish and they will place D-rings where you desire and need them. My recommendation (from the way I play) would be at least three at the collar (center, left and right) and replacing the leather leading loops on each side of the waist and just below the shoulder so you can tie the sub between two posts.

The straitjacket comes in sizes from S to XXL and are pretty adjustable. So when you are a top who entertains different body types of subs, I recommend getting a largerish size; you can always tighten it afterwards.

Detail of the Tit Flaps

Playing with the Straitjacket

Being put into a straitjacket is probably one of the most intense bondage experience once can have. Unlike a sleepsack where the sub is still somewhat in control of the putting on process (like slipping the arms into the arm pocket, adjusting the leg divider, etc.), once he has put the body one, the top is in control. He can move around the arms and with a leash even the sub at his will. While in a sleepsack the sub will most likely remain in the area where he lay down, in a straitjacket the sub is mobile and can be forced quiet easily into environments and situation the top wants him to be – regardless of how much the sub dislikes it. This mental aspect is one of the greatest appeals of a straitjacket.

Detail of the Jockstrap-Style Crotch Staps

An important element of it, is the fettering process; the straps being tightened around the subs, gradually limiting the control over his arms and torso. While the HML Fetish straitjacket technically does this well, it falls a bit short on the sensation side. Since most straps are only 25mm wide, the tightening sensation is not as strongly felt as on most other straitjackets. I would describe it this way: Compare the impact sensation of a wood paddle and a thuddy flogger. The pain intensity might be the same, but the flogger with the sheer amount of kinetic energy will shatter and thrust you against the St. Andrews cross while the paddle “just” hurts. Quantity wise the effect it the same, but the quality wise there is a lot more going on with the flogger or in regards of straitjackets with wider straps. I have talked to the guys at HML Fetish about this and they the thinner belts are an aesthetic decision, leaving more of the body visible. But most of my testees said that the fettering process was disappointingly unspectacular so I guess you again have to ask during the ordering process if you can get wider straps if you prefer them.

Detail of the Strap Fettering the Arms in Front of the Torso

Again compared to a sleepsack a straintjacket is the perfect combination of active play and intense bondage sensation. And the HML Fetish one excels at that. With the relatively large tit flaps, you cannot only attach clamps easily but even do wax play when you are a bit cautious (and the sub is sound tightly enough so he cannot move). Due to the not too thick leather, lying on a spanking bench is comfortable and the crotch straps make a nice jockstrap-like framing of the cheeks for impact play. This straitjacket’s collar is even soft enough to just be loosely closed if you are putting a hood or muzzle on which already has a collar.

Conclusion: High quality made straitjacket with too few D-rings and a little bit too thin straps.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Great craftsmanship out of high quality materials Straps are too thin HML Fetish 995€
Great value for money Too few D-rings
Large tit flaps
Quilted elbows as standard

Wrist Binder

The 665 Leather Wrist Binder

Vendor: 665 Leather

Construction

The Wrist Binder look a bit like handcuffs from the early 20th century and is made milled out of 25mm thick aircraft-grade aluminum. The material makes them really light at 318g without compromising the sturdiness and rigidness. All edges have been properly deburred to prevent cuts and scratches. Out of the box the Wrist Binder have a beautiful stroke matting but since aluminum is a soft material it quickly gets tarnished with scratches.

Detail of the Hing Mechanism in Use

For comfortable wearing the wrists are put cuffs shaped like stretched ovals measuring 75x57mm. They are large enough even for larger wrists but small enough that a person with a M glove size and not too collapsible hands can’t pull them out. The two cuffs are connected by a twistable hinge. The cuffs are closed by pad locks which are put through eyelets on the top of the long side of the cuff. The eyelets have a diameter of 7mm which is a standard pad lock size just in case there is already a keyed-alike lock system in use. Otherwise the Wrist Binder came with two brass Master Locks. On each side, parallel to the hinge in the middle, there is an 13mm eyelet milled out of 9mm thick aluminum.

The Wrist Binder as shown on 665 Leather’s Website

Playing with the Wrist Binder

The Wrist Binder was a gift from a couple of friends for my birthday this March. It was on my wishlist because I was looking for restraints to incorporate into rope bondage. On 665 Leather’s website I found Wrist Binder pictured on the right: The look like a handcuff with a hinge on one side, an eyelet for a pad lock on the other side and two huge eyelets in the middle for rope. What my friends got from the US was what I am reviewing here. So I got in touch with 665 Leather, trying to get the item my friend ordered for me. I was told that on the website are pictures of the old version and I have gotten the new one. Roughly 9 months after my birthday the still have not changed the pictures on their website so I am not sure what toy will be sent when the “Wrist Binder” is ordered through the link below.

Detail of the Locking with the Pad Lock Shipped with the Toy

As a handcuff the Wrist Binder works really well. Through the ergonomic shape and the rounded edges they are comfortable to wear even for extended periods of time. The width of the aluminum, the ability to twist the wrists against each other and the fact that they can’t be retightened almost eliminates the risk of nerve damage which sometimes can occur when police handcuffs are worn too tight or for too long. If a stricter bondage is desired, a 300mm zip-tie can be used instead of pad locks. This will limit the ability to twist immensely.

But how does the Wrist Binder work incorporated in a bondage layout, using rope, chain or other means? For the original purpose – rope bondage – they do not work at all! Through the ability to twist, unintended pull and tangling can happen, messing up the rigging. In a testing scene I was actually forced to cut rope for the first time in my life because while twisting, rope got caught in the hinge!

Detail of how Easily the Satin Finish scratches

The position of the bondage anchor points are also unfortunate for attaching them easily to collars, shoulder restraints, etc. The top always has to use carabiners, chain or something else to create an anchor point above the wrists not next to them. For stress position, like the arms stretched out, I guess it is a bit better than the one on their website because through the twisting the hands can be brought into a somewhat more comfortable position if need. However, since the metal does not give in, a sub put into stress position using this restraint must be watched extra well!

Conclusion: Good handcuff with sadly little usage for the two bondage anchor points.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Secure and comfortable to wear for long periods of time … but hinge makes bondage anchor points difficult to use 665 Leather $78
Keyed-alike locks can be used  
Wrists can be comfortable positioned through hinge…

Leather Handcuffs

The Mr S Leather Handcuffs

Vendor: Mr S

Construction

The Leather Handcuffs are made out of two slim cuffs made out of belt leather. The belt leather strap is 25mm wide and lined with soft leather. 50mm behind the flap which houses the lockable roller-buckle the strap widens to 40m. This section is 120mm long and is padded with soft foam. Into the last, also 120mm long section of the strap holes have been punched for the buckle. The spacing allows the cuffs to adjust for almost every size of wrist; starting at a tiny diameter of 50mm up to a massive 100mm wrist diameter.

Detail of the Padding

The two cuffs are connected cross-over by two strong rivets. This way the cuffs don’t twist. Between them is an 80mm long and 25mm wide strap of leather which has welded D-rings on both ends. The Handcuffs come with a pair of keyed alike Master Locks.

Playing with the Leather Handcuffs

Handcuffs are one of the most common pervertable and thus bondage means in BDSM scene. Widely available they come loaded with fetish fantasies and are easy to use. But long-term wearing of tightly fitted handcuffs can lead to serious nerve damage and wrist injuries. So as hot as – carefully! – snapping handcuffs around the bottom’s wrist, they should not be worn during an entire scene. Through the wide strap and the padding these cuffs can be worn indefinitely long.

Detail of one of the D-rings

Unlike professional handcuffs these leather ones have to anchor points to incorporate them into a more elaborate bondage layout. My testees most often used them for rope bondage setups because the rope ran very smoothly through the D-rings. In combination with leather or rubber gear and toys I used them for impromptu shoulder-to-wrist restraints by locking them to a harness or connect them to a ball stretcher with a D-ring for an interesting feedback loop. The wide strap and padding provides some support for the wrist. So the handcuffs can be used for stress bondage like a hogtie. Unlike in a traditional hogtie the wrist are not in line with arms but oblique and over-cross. This adds extra stress to the arms and shoulders once the sub starts to move his legs. The leather handcuffs can even be used for limited suspension like keeping the sub on the tip of his toes, though they are not made for real suspension bondage.

Detail of the Locking Buckle

The large holes for the lockable buckle require rather large spacing between the holes. This makes a secure adjustment sometimes difficult when the wrist is just too large for the tighter hole and the next hole makes the fettering considerably looser. A locking pin with the consequently tighter spacing would have been better and more secure. To tell the truth this only happened once during the 6 month testing period. The cross-over design makes it really difficult to find a point of application to wiggle out of them.

Conclusion: Simple yet versatile handcuff like restraints.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Comfortable to wear over extended periods of time Spacing sometimes too large for secure fettering Mr S $79.95
Locking
Two D-rings

 

Mr S Shoulder to Wrist Restraints

Vendor: Mr S

The Mr S Shoulder to Wrist Restraints

Construction

The first element of this three-part bondage toy is a 32mm wide latigo leather strap which runs over the neck and around the shoulders. It is closed by a roller buckle and can be locked through a post. There is also a D-ring next to the roller buckle. The strap’s length can be adjusted between 110cm to 140cm which is long enough for beefy subs; the buckle’s pin has to be in the third hole for the last hole to fit over the locking post. For fettering an extremly beefy body builder meat machine Mr S can certainly make a custom strap which is longer but neither my testees nor me ever found the strap too short respectively too long for skinny subs.

On this strap runs a 380mm long and 53mm wide latigo leather strap. Between 45mm to 225mm measured from the bottom 12 holes are punched into it. For an even tighter bondage experience I had 6 holes added so the restraint can be pulled up even higher.

Detail of the Roller Buckle, Locking Post and D-ring of the Shoulder Strap

These holes are used to attach the 53mm wide latigo leather back strap using a roller buckle with a locking pin. Below the roller buckle there are two wrist restraints riveted onto the strap. They are closed with locking roller buckles.

Playing with the Shoulder to Wrist Restraints

The possible usage scenario is determined by how much the shoulder and the back strap are tightened. If both straps are not too strict this restraint can be used for self-bondage. It takes some time and practice to get the wrists fettered and undone again. But the latter struggle is part of the self-bondage experience. If you should fail to undo them there is enough slack to cut the back strap with a safety scissor in a case of emergency. If both straps are tightened in a medium intensity (elbow forms a right angle) the restraints can be worn comfortably and safely for an extensive period of time. This makes the Shoulder to Wrist Restraints the ideal piece of bondage gear for social settings like a bar night. The sub is bound into a presentable position yet he is able to move around to follow his top while the bondage is comfortable enough to be kept on for an entire nights.  In the tightest configuration on tall guys it becomes impossible to open the wrist restraints even when they are not locked.

Detail of the Wrist Restraints

Almost regardless of the tightness the Shoulder to Wrist Restraints create an interesting bondage experience. Especially in the looser configurations the bondage feeling of the wrist restraints quickly fade away. So when the sub wants to act naturally because he forgot about the restraints he will quickly be reined back. A big advantage of the Shoulder to Wrist Restraints is the effective bondage in combination with great accessibility: With the arms bound behind the back nipples and the junk can easily be played with and his torso is exposed for (gut) punching; once bend forward for a spanking the ass cheeks are exposed and the sub can’t raise himself again so he is at the top’s mercy.

Detail of the Back Strap attached to the Runner

To intensify the bondage experience I recommend attaching a shackle to the strap of the lower wrist restraint between the two rivets. Onto this new anchor point ankle restraints can be added – either with chains to create a prison setup to limit the sub’s ability to run or just with carabiners to keep him kneeling. For a more painful sensation connect the wrist restraints to a ball stretcher with a D-ring or – even more evil – a parachute with spikes. If pain is induced and he tries to work it out with whatever limited movements he has in his arms he will tug on his balls.

 Conclusion: Versatile restraint – from comfortable to stress sbondage.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Very well made Mr S $169.95
Versatile usage scenarios
Unique Bondage experience
Lockable

Fetters Heavy Leather Hogtie Set

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

The Fetters Heavy Leather Hogtie Set

The Heavy Leather Hogtie Set consists of a pair of modified Fetters Padded Leather Thigh Restraint, a pair of Padded Locking Wrist Cuffs and an Elbow Strap. All pieces are made out of high quality leather, thick soft padding and stainless steel trim. The set comes without pad locks. If you want to lock the restrains the shackle diameter of the pad lock should not be larger than 3mm.

The core of this set is a modified version of the Fetters Padded Leather Thigh Restraints. As all restraints from their padded & lockable range are basically made the same way: An 8cm wide cushion of thick padding covered with soft leather is sewn onto a wide strap of bridle leather. Onto this a belt with a roller buckle and a locking post is riveted. Usually each restraint is equipped with two welded D-rings.

The lowest circumference the thigh restraint can be adjusted to is 42cm; the largest is 71.5cm with a padding gap of 11.5cm; largest circumference with padding all around the thigh is 54cm and the largest circumference and still being able to lock is 67cm with a padding gap of 7cm. Next to the locking post there is a welded D-ring. 15cm away from the D-ring a Padded Locking Ankle Cuff (which I reviewed here) is riveted with its two D-rings being perpendicular to the rivet. Since only one rivet is used the cuff can turn to allow for different bondage positions. Another difference to their standard Padded Thigh restraint is that they have replaced the second D-ring with a stainless steel loop which has a width of 38mm and a height of 8mm. Through this loop the belt of the Padded Locking Wrist cuffs (which I reviewed here) can be threaded to attach the wrist restraint to the thigh one.

Detail of the Wrist Restraint attached to Thigh Restraint

For an even stronger bondage experience an elbow strap comes with the set. The basis of it is a 13.5cm long and 8cm wide octagonal piece of two bridle leather layers which are sewn together. In the middle there are two roller buckles with a locking post riveted onto the body.  In front of each buckle a slot is punched through which a leather belt with unburnished sides is threaded. This belt is 118cm long and 3cm wide. It features 7 holes on one side and 29 holes on the other side which allows for fine adjustment.

Playing with the Hogtie Set

To put these restraints on it is best when the sub lies face down so the top can easily move the limbs to put them into the corresponding cuffs. Each buckle is far away enough from the wrist restraints to prevent the sub from opening the roller buckles. If you want to be extra sure each restraint is lockable which adds a lot of mental bondage sensation. Once fettered you can choose between four different bondage positions: The traditional lying face down, lying face up, kneeling or sitting on the ass. Since sitting up requires a lot of muscle strength this position is a bit of stress bondage. Lying face up is equally stress bondage but great for CBT or an extreme form of gut punching – even with low intensity punches. The thigh restraints quickly became popular with a top friend of mine in kneeling position. He used them in combination with the Handlock (which I reviewed here) to restrain the hands above the head with the thigh-ankle-combination effectively preventing the sub from standing up.

Minimum and Maximum Diameter of the Thigh Restraint

The most traditional position is obviously lying with the face down. In this bondage layout mouth and ass are still accessible but (if the top is strong ort the sub light) you can still move the sub around. Besides face fucking most testees used the hogtie for impact play. With the ass exposed (and if you are not fettering gymnasts the feet unable to cover the ass) and the restraints covering the sensitive area of the upper thigh this layout is great for spanking. Especially if you want to administer bastinado I recommend locking both ankle restraints together using a small shackle. This will effectively limit the movement even more. When you want to create a stress bondage position add a head harness or a muzzle and connect the top D-ring to the shackle. In this layout I would not recommend inducing too much pain because heavy movement can lead to neck or spinal injuries. Of cause this layout can be used for lighter play like sensation play or – if you are not afraid to get lube on the leather – fisting.

I am a bit hesitant to recommend using the elbow strap. It is a great piece of bondage gear which can increase the sense of being bound quite a lot – also in other bondage layouts. But the construction is killing it for me. With the edges being unburnished, at best they are just sharp and uncomfortable. But if the sub moves a lot it can cause abrasions. In order to make this part of the toy useful I am actually considering having movable padding custom made like on the thighs on the suspension harness.

Detail of the Buckle of the Elbow Strap and the Unburnished Belt

Besides hogties this set can be used in many different other bondage layouts. If the added ankle cuffs don’t bother you the thigh restraint can be used to fetter down upper legs. To attach thicker rope or carabineers to the metal loop, simply use a shackle to add a larger anchor point. When the sub doesn’t have to small hands the ankle cuffs can be used to restrain wrists to the thighs. However this does only work if the bondage layout is either standing up or lying with the ankles also fettered. Otherwise there is a chance the sub can simply slip off the thigh restraint. On testee even used the restraint for pup play: He gave his puppy knee and elbow pads, connected the ankles to the thighs and the wrist to the collar and thus forced his sub in an even more dog-like position. However I do not recommend this form of stress bondage for extended periods of time since especially the elbows are not made to support such weight.

Conclusion: Unique and clever restraint set with one disappointing element.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Unique layout Finishing of the belt makes elbow strap unusable Regulation £248.99
Comfortable through thick padding
Very well made – except elbow strap
Locking
Plethora of D-rings

 

Adjustable Nose Shackle

Vendor: Uberkinky

The Adjustable Nose Shackle from Uberkinky

Construction

The Adjustable Nose Shackle is made out of two square metal plates onto which two 25mm high shackles made out of wire are welded. The tips of the shackles are bent towards each other. Through the metal plate a screw is put through which the shackle can be opend up to 17mm and closed again. The screw head is textured for better grip yet especially with lubey fingers or when wearing heavy gloves it is a bit hare to turn. Below the screw there are two bars to guide the shackles. The entire toy is made out of stainless steel and weights 33g.

Playing with the Adjustable Nose Shackle

This toy might look small and innocent yet it is one of the most intense pieces of bondage gear I know. The nasal septum is a quite sensitive body area. For most bottoms just the weight of the lightly attached Adjustable Nose Shackle is a noticeable sensation. The pain of the shackle being pulled will make most subs comply and move in the desired direction. Of cause if you want to be mean you can tighten it even more for constant and agonizing pain.

Since the shackles are made out of wire instead of solid metal plates like other nose shackles are they can dig a little bit deeper into the tissue which results in better grip. To lead a sub around or incorporate the toy into a bondage layout simply put a little carabineer around the three bars and attach your favorite leash, rope or chain. But keep in mind that this will add extra weight which increases the experienced pain, especially when through dangling around movement energy is added.

The cartilage structure of the septum in combination with the smooth round tips of the Adjustable Nose Shackle is enough to prevent serious injuries if you tighten the shackle cautiously and not too tight. But especially when the bottom already has a septum piercing or the septum is damaged (through drug usage for example) be extra careful when pulling. Serious injuries might occur!

Detail of the Guiding Bars and the Screw to Adjust the Opening

The wide opening enables you to attach the Adjustable Nose Shackle to other body parts like the tongue, ear lobes, the foreskin or the frenulum. Some testees even put it on the sack (take extra care you don’t trap a spermatic cord!) or the perineum to lead their subs around. It is worth to experiment which body part gives the best reaction, where it can be worn the longest time or if you are extra sadistic get two, put them opposite ends of the body, apply some tension and see into which pain the sub will give in the most.

Being made out of stainless steel cleaning and sanitizing this piece of bondage gear is easy: Simply boil it in water for some time and let it dry properly.

Conclusion: Intense piece of bondage gear.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Makes sub comply quickly A bit difficult to operate Uberkinky £19.99
Finely adjustable sensation
Allows to incorporate unexpected body parts into bondage
  Disclaimer: This toy was sent to me by Uberkinky for an honest and unbiased review.

Fetters Padded Locking Wrist & Ankle Cuffs

Vendor: Regulation & Mr S

Fetters Padded Locking Restraints for Wrist and Ankle

Fetters Padded Locking Restraints for Wrist and Ankle

Construction

Both restraints are made in a cuff style: There is a piece of padding which goes around the joint which is fettered with a strap. The padding is a thick and soft piece of foam lined with soft leather. Onto the outside of the padding a piece of bridle leather which is a bid narrower than the padding. So even when the sub struggles heavily there is padding over the leather’s hard edges. The bridle leather piece is also only approx 4/5 as long as the padding leaving a part of it free the fold down for a secure fit even if the sub really has small wrists or ankles. Through the padding and onto the bridle leather piece the bridle leather belt is riveted. Four rivets hold the two D-rings, the locking posts and the roller buckle in place.

The belt on these restraints are long enough with holes punched close enough to the rivet that they can accommodate small to really large wrists and ankles. When you are on the larger end of the circumference spectrum there will be a space without padding which did not bother all testees.

Minimal Circumference Maximal Lockable Circumference Maximal Not Lockable Circumference
Wrist Restraints 10cm 24cm 32cm
Ankle Restraints 15.5cm 27cm 35.5cm

When I first got the restraints I was a bit puzzled by a rather large “wave” on the belt between the central rivets. It turns out that once you put the restraint onto a sub the padding follows the curvature of the wave so the belt does not get stretched! This attention to detail shows on the entire toy: The stitching is flawless, the D-rings are welded, the leather smells and feels like good, sustainably tanned leather is supposed to. In terms of customizing you just recently got the choice of black and white for the strap and a choice of 8 different colors for the padding to match your fetish gear.

Detail of the Lavish Padding

Detail of the Lavish Padding

Finally, a word on the Mr S restraints. The restraints I am reviewing are the ones from Fetters but I have played with the Mr S ones several dozen times in the USA. So I can assure you that in terms of quality and functionality they are no different than the ones from Fetters. The only difference is that you can “only” choose between black, grey, red and blue lining for the padding and that the straps are only available in black.

So a bit like with the ErosTek power boxes: When you are living in Europe, go for the ones from Regulation, when you living in the USA go for the ones from Mr S.

Playing with it

Detail of one of two D-Rings, the Locking Posts and the Roller Buckle,

Detail of one of two D-Rings, the Locking Posts and the Roller Buckle,

What sets these restraints apart from others is really the padding. It is so lavish, lush and soft that once broken in and fettered in a secure position there is no feeling of being restrained at all. It is only when the sub starts to struggle that the he feels that behind the pillowy veneer is a merciless, heavy duty restraint keeping them in place even when he fights hard! For that reason I like these restraints a lot for heavy scenes with a very active sub because the fragile joints are well protected by the thick padding. Because they are not that noticeable these restraints are great for subs who want to know they are fettered but are not comfortable (yet) with the tight feeling of a restraint around the joints. Being so comfortable I had several testees using them while sleeping. Since the initial bondage feeling is not quite there I recommend locking the belts slowly one after another so that the sub can hear the clicking sound and realizes that without the key they are not coming off.

Once it comes to tying someone down these restraints are made for complex bondage layouts. With two D-rings with a width of 37mm per restraints there are enough attachment points for elaborate bondage setups.

There are matching collars available: A padded one from Fetters and a non-padded one from Mr S which I will be reviewing in a couple of weeks.

Conclusion: Restraints comfortable enough to be worn 24/7 yet strict enough to power out even an extremely fighting sub.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Lavish padding for comfortable wear and exceptionally joint protection Padding could be a bit longer Fetters Wrist Restraints £79.99
Fetters Ankle Restraints £81.99
Mr S Wrist Restraints $139.95
Extremely well made out of high quality materials with attention to details Mr S Ankle Restraints §149.95
Two D-rings per restraint
Lockable
Lots of color customizing options to match favorite fetish gear
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