Classic Restraints

The Cuffed Classic Restraints

Quick note: ToyTorture.com is still on hiatus until after Ascension. But I have been getting so many questions about the Cuffed Classis Restraints that I decided to take a break from the break and write this review today.

Vendor: Cuffed

Design

The Cuffed Classic Restraints is an entire system of sturdy restraints made out of rubber. Of course they cover the standard anchor points like wrist and ankle. But they also include thigh and biceps ones for total fixation (well, a body belt is missing but that can easily be made out of one big thigh restraint if you e-mail them nicely) or an extra long boot restraint to tie down MX boots up to wrist suspension cuffs.

The Kevlar reinforced Heavy Rubber Strap

The basic design of the Classic Restraints is a cuff-style like its brother the Rubstraints: The inside layer is made out of two layers of .8mm grade latex. This rubber either comes in classic black or in toyred, organge, yellow, white, green and blue. This makes them ideal to either display a hanky cover or add a dash of color to an all black rubber outfit. There is not padding like on many leather restraints but the rubber is soft enough to feel comfortable. On both side rubber tubing is encased in the same latex to create a cool piping look. The restraints come in two width: 64mm for the nimbler body parts like wrists and ankles and 101mm for the thighs. The thigh restraints have another layer of the industrial rubber covering the body. Otherwise it would warp too easily.

Onto the restaints body, a belt made out of a double layer of Kevlar reinforced black industrial rubber is riveted. For this two pairs of rivets are used between which a D-ring is housed. The wrist restraints has two D-rings, the ankle restraints have three, all with an internal width of 41mm. The thigh restraints feature five D-rings with 53mm with. One end of the belt is equipped with a roller buckle and a locking pin, on the other side there are rivet-reinforced belt holes. If you want to use to locking pin, you can fasten the belt until the third last hole.

The Roller Buckle and Locking Pin

The locking pin has a 4mm hole so most standard locks for restraint locking should fit. If you don’t have locks, I would not recommend buying the ones Cuffed is selling! They are made out of brass, the standard for locks even in the BDSM community – at least when it comes to leather. Brass is one the metals that can cause rubber cancer which is an unfixable! It frankly baffles me that a shop specializing in rubber is selling brass locks. If you want to lock these restraints, either buy aluminum or stainless steel padlocks (my choice are Abus Titalium but there are many other options) or use seals often used on chastity cages.

Like all rubber and latex items, these restraints require special care and handling. Most important: Keep them away from oil and fat, including and especially Crisco! These substances will destroy the rubber! Since there is always a thin film of oil on the human skin, rubber should be washed after each scene either using simple, non-moisturizing dish soap or a special rubber detergent (my detergent of choice is Wonder Wash). Before storing them, make sure they are COMPLETELY dry (often water gets trapped in the tubes used for the piping) and seal the surface either with talcum powder or silicone lube to keep the rubber from oxidation. But regardless how well you take care of the Rubstraints, how thoroughly you clean and protect them from oxidation, they – like all rubber and latex times – will over time get old and finally break! So use them often and well to get the most fun out of them.

The Triple Layer Thigh Restraint

If you want to learn more about rubber and latex, the perfect care and its appeal, check out my Rubber 101.

Playing with the Classic Restraints

This part of the review starts the same way as the review of their Rubstraint brother did 1 ½ years ago: These are rubber restraints the work and can take a beating – just like high quality leather restraints. Period. Most of the force of struggling and fighting is caught by the heavy rubber belt which can take a beating! One testee said “How secure can rubber restraints be?” He was surprised how well they tied him down. And he got really horny when he heard the clicking sound of the padlock through the locking post, realizing the he was now inescapable fettered with rubber in his latex catsuit.

The D-Ring Housing from the Bottom and the Top

Since the basic design with the latex piped lining is the same as on their brothers, the restraint can be worn on bare skin also when struggling hard without chafing.  But there is one major difference between the Classic Restraints and the Rubstraints: The latter has the industrial grade Velcro patch to align both ends of the restraints which is a nifty feature. While the latex of the body is soft and smoth, the tubes for the piping are stiff. This leads to one of the restraint breaking out when putting it on or even slipping when the sub is struggling. When wearing the cuffs are an accessory and putting the wrist restraints on on your own this is especially annoying. It sometimes took me several attempts to shackle the cuffs on my sub and chuckled a bit seeing an experienced to failing for a minute or so to fetter me until his pride allowed him to ask for a third, helping hand. Since rubber (ceteris paribus) does not get broken in, it is going to stay this way. Yes, it is annoying but over time you learn how to handle these restraints.

The Metal Gate Width Difference of the Rubstraint (left) and Classic (right)

Like on most restraints, D-rings are used as attachment points. And since each Classic Restraint has at least two, there are ample of fixation and bracing possibilities. They are wide enough to house more than one rope, tension strap or carabiner and even chains up to 6mm wire strength can be run through them.

An important thing to note is that the metal gate behind the roller buckle which aligns the belt is narrower than the gates on the Rubstraints! Because of this the belt system of Rubstraints is not compatible with the Classic restraints.

Since the Classic Restraints are made out of the same material as the Rubstraints the smell almost obscenely off latex! To protect them from sun light, I store them in a box and opening it releases a cloud of intoxicating rubber smell. And being made out of rubber they can be shined like rubber gear. If they get a bit dull, just take out silicone oil and shine them as glossy as you like them.

Conclusion: Sturdy and colorful rubber restraints.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Sturdy enough even for heavy bondage scenes and strong subs A bit difficult to put on and keep aligned Wrist Restraints 129€
Ankle Restraints 129€
Will age over time and will eventually break
Colorful restraint body
Intense rubber smell and feel Biceps Restraints 129€
More than one anchor point Thigh Restraints 239€
Locking Pin Boot Restraints 249€
Suspension Restraints 299€
Collar 129€

Fetters Leather Arm Binder

The Fetters Arm Binder

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

The center piece of the Arm Binder is a restraint body made out of soft and deliciously smelling garment leather. While it gently wraps around the sub’s body, at 1mm thickness it is sturdy and strong! The restraint roughly has the shape of a sleeping bag’s bottom. The opening at the top is 42cm wide and tapers over the length of 69cm to 12cm at the bottom. This lavish amount of room allows the restraint to be used on all body types, from beefy muscle bulls to slender twinks.

To adjust the sizing and increase the level of bondage, there are two mechanisms. On top of the body there is a rivet reinforced lacing ladder which goes 2/3 down. It is underlaid with a sheet of leather so hair or skin folds do not get caught in the lacing. Onto the back three loops – one on top, on 1/3 and one 2/3 down – out of sturdy bridle leather are riveted. Through these loops belts with roller buckles are threaded. Again, the belts are long yet the holes are punched so far that they are long enough for bigger builds yet can be closed tightly for petit physiques.

The restraint body is fettered to the torso with a simple X-harness using roller buckles. One pair sits on each side of the lacing, another of the leather sack’s back. The roller buckles are held in place by riveted leather loops for a secure fit. The loops are made out of the same 30mm wide bridle leather belts as the harness and the tightening belts.

The Roller Buckle on the Stiff Version of the Bridle Leather Belts

And now we are coming to a part difficult part in this review: The bridle leather on the Arm Binder I am basing this review on is stiff and uncomfortable. Because of this I reached out to Regulation/ Fetters and they assured me that they switched the leather to a softer and thus more flexible variety earlier this year (I have gotten my Arm Binder in March 2021). To make my Arm Binder more usable, I actually commissioned new belts and the harness in the new, softer leather but due to Covid I have not yet gotten these.

Long story short: As you can read below, I like the Arm Binder a lot because they are a hot and kind of degrading toy. But especially for long term scenes, they are only fun when the softer leather is used! As soon as I have gotten the new belts and harness, I will annex this review. As always, if you want to be kept in the loop about such things, follow me on Twitter.

Lateral Belts for Extra Secure & Tight Bondage

Playing with the Leather Arm Binder

Putting the Arm Binders on is easy: The sub simple needs to put his arms behind his back and you pull the restraint body over them. To make it easier, the bottom should fold his hands. The bottom of the leather sack is quite tight yet it is spacious enough for larger hands. But if you want to tie the sub’s hands together, leather cuff restraints or special ones like the awesome Fetters Handlock take up too much space. So if you feel the need to tie them, I recommend soft Velcro quick restraints. But to be honest: Such additional restraints are purely for the mindfuck. Once the harness and the restraint body are connected, there is little chance for the sub to get his arms free.

For safe and long-term play, the harness should rest lightly against the torso and the restraint body should hang as loosely as the arms would. There should be a little wiggle room so the sub can move his shoulders before they become stiff and to ensure circulation. You can tighten the straps more, pulling the arms up. This is a form of stress bondage and should not be done over extended periods of time and monitored closely. The same rules apply to the belts. Tighten them loosely for lightly restraining the sub while increasing both the bondage feeling and inescapability. Tighten them more and you end up with intense stress bondage. Please keep in mind that through the leverage of the belt you can quickly wield strong force on the elbows and shoulders. Both are frailer joints so be careful and don’t overdo it force and time wise!

The Lacing for a Tight Fettering

So much for health and safety. Now on to the fun part. If you fetter the belts in a non-stress tightness, the Leather Arm Binder are great “mobile” restraints. You can put your sub in them for extended periods of time, render his arms useless while he can walk around and has his body more or less exposed for play.  This makes the arm binder the perfect bar/ club restraint. Unlike straitjackets which are equally comfortable over long periods of time but limit the access to the torso, the bottom in these can be easily be expose to chest and gut punching, TT or CBT. Naturally, it is a good piece of bondage gear for group scenes when a sub needs to be “parked”.

On my first look at the toy, I would have wished for D-rings on the side. But in play, I rarley missed them. In the cases where I had to secure my bottom laterally, I simply used carabiners or shackles on the tightening belts as anchor points. Yes, D-rings would be more refined and keep the restricting belts from movement. But they are not essential for enjoying this restraint. As I have written: The Arm Binder is a perfect toy for mobile play. If you want to secure a sub safely laterally on his arms I would recommend  Fetters’ Full Sleeve Bondage Mitts which have plenty of D-rings.

At the Bottom there is a D-Ring for multiple Nifty and Nasty Intricacies

The one D-ring at the bottom is a nifty one though. For a bit of CBT, it can be connected to a chastity cage or a ball stretcher. Since the arm movement is quite limited, the chances of an accident are low. My preferred bondage layout though was running a piece of rope or chain through it to for connecting two ankle restraints. This will properly limit his step range and keeps him from running away. If you want to humiliate him even more, use the D-ring as the anchor point for the leash instead of the collar, focusing the attention onto his groin.

Finally, if you sub needs fuck machine training, this is a good piece of bondage gear to keep the arms out of interferings way when the sub is on a bench. Even when bound in doggy position, the arms can be used to pull forward and escape the machine a bit. With the arms behind the back (preferably lightly suspended upwards) there is little wiggle room. And quite frankly, the image is very hot!

Conclusion: Effective body restraint from light to stress bondage.
Pros Cons Where to get Price
Comfortable and secure to wear even over extended periods of time Few lateral D-rings would be great Regulation £264.99
Bondage intensity finely adjustable
Hot looking bondage positions with good access to “pressure” points

ToyTorture’s Stocking Stuffer II – Fetters Headtrap

Jesse bound in the Fetters Headtrap

Last year I have already recommended a piece of nimble and nifty bondage furniture for people who cannot or do not want to have a playroom or who travel to events often. This got so much positive feedback that today’s gift recommendation is just that. And again, the Headtrap comes from Fetters which seems to become a specialist for small footprint bondage furniture.

The Parts of the Fetters Headtrap

The Headtrap is basically a small cage without the bars on the side. There is only a piece to trap the head. The rest of the fettering is done attaching restraints to the anchor points, one in each corner. Since there are no bars, the limbs can be places outside of the frame. So with a footprint of just 45x50cm or 50×75.5cm – depending if you put the cage upside or longside – you have a effectively immobilized your sub. The Headtrap comes with a tickly padded plate so you can sit inside the bars. If you add the included locking wheels, you can even push him around. Perfect for a party setting or if you do a long-term scene and want to take your sub with you when you leave the room.

From the pictures it looks that to assemble you just need to tighten 8 screws which seems quick. On the product it says it collapses to five flat pieces so it should be easy to store and if you have a car somewhat easy to transport to your event hotel room (I have seen rim chair on hotel luggage carts at Folsom Europe so…).  Sadly there is no word on the weight. So I guess one of you will have to buy one and tell me 😉

The Fetters Headtrap costs £549 at Regulation in London.

Suspension Hand Slings

The Mr S Suspension Hand Slings

Vendor: Mr S Leather

Construction

The body of this restraint pair is a curvated piece of bridle leather straps.  The bottom is slightly convex to follow the autonomy of the hand’s bottom; the top is protracted. While the body is made out of sturdy leather, it is padded and lined with soft garment leather. Unlike on their cuff-style restraints or the Four Buckle Hand Restraint (more on that later), the padding is rather stiff. This supports the wrist and keeps is upright yet makes the restraints comfortable to wear. For perfect and tight fit on the wrist, the restraint is tightly closed using Velcro and then secured with a roller buckle belt. Next to the buckle is a welded D-ring.

The top of the protracted tip is folded and secured with two rivets to house a tooled aluminum bar. On both end of the bar, panic carabiners with big, welded O-rings on the end connect the bar to another strap of bridle leather. This is threaded through the two O-rings. Between two rivets which hold the strap together sits another panic carabiner.

The Roller Buckle and D-ring on the back

Like all panic (or security as they are also called) carabiners they can turn to adjust a bit to the sub’s movement. There are no sharp edges to prevent damage on ropes. The release for the opening is tooled and textured for best grip even in stress situations.

Playing with the Suspension Hand Slings

When I have gotten these restraints this summer, they marked the end of era for me: For almost 10 years I have been using the Four Buckle Hand Restraints from Mr S for any kind of bondage and fettering. They were actually part of my first ever order from Mr S. But, when fettering someone on a standing position like on a St Andrews Cross, the Four Buckle Hand Restraints were not the best choice. The D-ring positioning was not perfect if you needed to hold onto something and panic carabiners were always a given in case the bottom collapsed (which luckily has never happened to me yet but happens more often than you probably think).

Connection of the Panic Carabiners with the Aluminum Bar

The Suspension Hand Slings fix all that! It is rare that a piece of (specialized) bondage gear instantly becomes part of my standard (or in this case flogging) play bag but the Suspension Hand Slings did just that. They were designed for the anchor point being above the restraint so there is no stressful horizontal pull on the wrists like when the D-ring is parallel to the arm. The layout and material choice is the perfect sweet spot between rigidity and stiffness for wrist support but not cutting of circulation and allowing enough leeway for the fingers and hand to move bit. Even when broken and getting softer in, they retain enough stiffness.

Stressful situations like being subjected to pain or being suspended can lead to circulation problems even on fit subs. Because of this, when doing suspension or just having a subs fettered standing, you should always use panic carabiners yet I rarely see them in public play spaces. Luckily, in these restraints they are built in. They look and feel like professional sailing equipment though sadly there is no kN value printed or engraved on them. In order to release them, twist the capsule 180° and even under pull they will open. The capsule is kept in place with a coil spring which is just strong enough to keep it in place but prevents the capsule from turning. Because twisting the capsule is such a satisfying feeling (yeah, I know that sometimes I am weird), I often just play around with the capsule. I have not counted how often I turned it but I have not noticed the spring getting any softer or the capsule developing any give.

The Velcro Fastener next the Padded and Garment Leather Lined Inside of the Restraint

Speaking of carabiners: Despite the rigid fettering, due to the twisting carabiners, there is a bit movement possible for the sub to work out sensations. This is important because swift, uncontrolled movements caused by pain could otherwise lead to injuries when the wrist is constrained by the cuff. Especially when whipping someone, I have subs doing pull-ups in these restraints because the bars provide such good support. So when doing extreme pain play I highly recommend also to put the ankles in bondage.

While this toy is called Suspension Hand Sling a word of caution is in order: Suspending someone solely vertically from their wrist, puts extreme stress on the joints, especially the wrists and the shoulders. There are some very well trained subs with extreme upper body muscles who can endure this stress position for a limited time. But neither your sub not you should over-estimate what he can do. So when doing suspension, check-in more often as usual.

The Panic Carabiners

I have also gotten a few reader questions about horizontal suspension with these restraints. In theory it works when the bottom is lying on his back. But you have to thread a tension strap or rope through the D-ring on the body to the major pull of the arm weight is caught there. But still what little pull is left, will make the tip bend upwards causing stress on the wrists. So for horizontal suspension I recommend the Four Buckle restraints.

If in a scene the need for another wrist restraint arises and you have these restraints in your play bag you can detach the part with the carabiners from the bar completely and use what is left as a standard restraint cuff. But since the restraint cannot be turned on the wrist, the D-ring always stays on the bottom of the hand which is a bit unpractical.

Conclusion: Best and most secure restraint for fettering hands above the hand.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Secure and save to use even in extreme bondage situations One trick pony Mr S Leather $239.95
Professional panic carabiners
Extremely well made and thought out

Fetters Full Sleeve Bondage Mitts

The Fetters Full Sleeve Bondage Mitts

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

Like on all Fetters leather bondage items, the first thing that strikes you is the strong and rich smell of high quality leather. Second, you will notice that like all bondage mitts from Fetters they are sold in pairs (it pains me that I have to point that out when looking at the competition…). The main body of each restraint is a 640mm long mitt made out of soft leather. The circumference at the top is 400mm which is large enough for most subs though body builders might want to get a custom version.

Detail of the Top D-ring

For about 2/3 of the body’s back there is a lacing to fetter the mitts tightly to the arm. The lacing using nylon string is strong enough for a tight fit and restricts the arm movement. Yet it is not strong enough to completely keep the elbow from bending. What really keeps the restraints bound to the arm are two 25mm wide bridle leather belts with roller buckles, one going around the wrist, the other going around the biceps sitting 70mm below the top of the mitts. The top strap is not riveted onto the body but runs to a pair of D-rings sitting, one on each side of the lacing. There are two more pairs, each 120mm apart. The wrist belt is riveted onto the mitt. On top of the mitts another strap is riveted perpendicular onto the belt. With this strap and two pairs of rivets a D-ring is housed at the bottom of the mitts. A final D-ring can be found on the top, next to the lacing.

Detail of the Bottom D-ring

Playing with the Full Sleeve Bondage Mitts

Through the size and the area these mitts cover, I consider them “body bondage” items. Putting them on a sub takes a bit of work and time. But it is also part of the fun with these restraints. In the process is also a sense of drama in it, taking away more and more the ability of his arms to move and letting him feel the contrast between the soft touch and tightening of the leather – especially if the sub has a leather fetish. Just like with the Bishop Head Harness, “ritualistically” putting the mitts on sets the moods and helps getting into headspace.

Through the D-ring layout, these mitts can naturally work as a cuff restraints substitute in almost any situation. Most fun was had by my testees in spread eagle position or when having their arms tied upwards laying in the sling. In this position the degree of bondage can easily be increased by connecting the D-rings to the sling chains.

Detail of the Lacing and the lateral D-ring pairs

But the full sleeve mitts really start to shine when you connect the top D-rings to a (bulldog) harness and leave the bed (room) with your sub. With just loosening the lacing a bit, adding a strap to connect the bottom D-rings and interconnecting the lateral D-rings on both mitts, you have a veritable straitjacket sleeve substitute. For a stricter layout with less wiggle room, tie the arms to the side using a full body bondage harness. Then thread a belt through the bottom D-rings and fasten it around the thighs and the leather gimp can (somewhat) walk about without moving his arms. Personally I enjoyed most using the Full Sleeve Bondage Mitts in a bondage frame. The many attachments points inside the frame in combination with the many D-rings enabled me to fetter a sub securely enough to flog him.

Detail of the Roller Buckles

Since I like the esthetics and the helplessness, I tried turning the full sleeve mitts into arm binder by connecting the bottom D-rings with a shackle and the other D-rings with belts. The layout worked but a word of caution is necessary: Do not tighten the belts too tightly or too quickly. Unlike restraints for this specific purpose like the Fetters Leather Arm Binder you can easily get to a degree of tension that puts too much stress on the shoulders and elbows or restricts blood flow to the hands. So if you are a fan of “tighter is better”, I highly recommend adding specific arm binder restraints to your collection. A safer (and what turned out more fun) way is running a piece of rope through both bottom D-rings and a D-ring at the bottom of a parachute with spikes. This will limit the arm movement too – sooner or later.

Detail of the Lower Roller Buckle is connected to the Botto, D-ring

Another setup a top testee did but I would not recommend it connecting the top D-rings to a collar. The chances of the sub strangling himself or causing disc injuries are too high in my opinion.

Of course, through the many D-rings, these bondage mitts are an ideal addition to rope bondage. The simplest ways is tying the top D-rings into a torso harness or the bottom ones to the thighs. But an experienced rigger will surely find more creative ways to make use of all the D-rings like body harness or tying two subs together a rope-inexperienced person like me cannot imagine.

If the mitts with the lacing are not strict enough, I recommend buying two 40cm – 50cm (depending on the leeway you want to allow) spreader bars. Connect one end to the bottom D-ring, the other to the two D-ring holding the biceps strap in place to severely limit the arm movement.

Conclusion: Restrictive and versatile piece body bondage gear.
Pros Cons Where to get Price
Covers large body area for strong bondage and leather feeling Takes time to put on sub Regulation £275
…. but lacing alone only has limited restriction
14 D-ring in total
Connection bottom and top D-ring with a spread bar easily increases bondage degree massively …

ToyTorture’s Stocking Stuffer I – Cuffed Classic Rubber Restraints

The Cuffed Classic Restraints Color Range

It has become a time-honored tradition that during the period we call Advent in Germany which means the four Sundays before Christmas I write about some toys that I would love to review but not yet had a chance to add to my playroom.

Two weeks ago I reviewed the Rubstraints from Cuffed and to put is mildly that review apparently stroke a chord. With the Segufix lock and all black or authentic medical restraint color scheme they mean business.

The Cuffed Classic Restraints Full Set

But rubber has always had the appeal of leathers cheekier, more lighthearted and more colorful brother and Cuffed caters to that with their Classic line. With a small locking pin instead of a Segufix lock and D-rings instead of gates they look more like classic cuff restraints – just like their name implies. But the greatest feat: They come in color! The piping around the edge and the body comes in blue, gree, yellow, orange, red and white so you’ve almost got a rainbow. This color range should cover the major (accent) colors used in rubber gear if you want to accessorize your outfit or are pedantic about matching colors when tied down. The Classic Restraints come for neck, biceps, wrist, thigh and ankle. So if you are VERY color-brave, you can use them to signal at least four different hanky codes. And if you ask nicely, I am sure Cuffed will be able to make you restraints also in teal, fuchsia, beige or whatever else floats your boat.

The range starts at 89€ for a puppy collar and ends at 199€ for thigh restraints. If you are interested in the entire set, they sell that for 675€ though then you have to write an e-mail for your color mix and match hanky set 😉

Rubstraints

The Cuffed Rubstraints with Various Connectors

Vendor: Cuffed

Rubber is one of the major fetishes out there and was actually my first fetish (more on that in some rare personal words at the end of this review). Often, a rubber fetish comes along with a love for bondage (rubber drones being forcefully reprogrammed anyone?). Sadly due to rubber being a fragile material and complex to process – especially when you want to compensate the fragility – there are few “good” rubber restraints out there. So many people mix rubber gear with leather restraints which for a true and only rubber lover is a painful compromise and thus messages asking for product recommendations in that regard are frequent. So when my dear friend StormWolf from Belgium drew my attention to the Cuffed restraints during his visit to Darklands earlier this year, I was thrilled and amazed because they looked very promising. Not wanting to anticipate the final verdict too much but they exceeded my expectations.

Design

The Rubstraints follow the design of all premium cuff-style restraints: A soft body that hugs tightly around the joint is connected to a sturdy belt that absorbs the force of the struggling sub. Unlike their leather cousins, the body is not padded but made out of two layers of 0.9mm grade rubber. Along the long edges of the body runs a rubber tubes covered in thin rubber to create the impression of piping. Onto the body, a double layer of Kevlar reinforced industrial rubber is riveted. On one side a rough patch of Velcro is glued and riveted on the belt while a small fleecy patch is at the other end of the body. The second belt houses two stainless steel gates with a clearing above the rubber of 11x51mm, a locking pin and roller buckle. There are 10 rivet-reinforced holes for closing the buckle. If you want to used the locking pin, you can fasten the belt up to the 7th hole (if you use the widest setting of the Velcro the 6th hole).

Detail of the Rubstraint’s Metal Closing & Locking Trims

For the locking mechanism Cuffed uses genuine Segufix locking pins, locks and keys so you can mix and match with your existing set. What sets them apart from standard Segufix equipment is that 11mm below the top, there is a 4mm hole drilled into the locking pin. This hole is designed to lock the restraints onto your sub if the Segufix locks seem to unsecure for you. However, since the top of the hole is aligned with the bottom of the Segufix lock neither my testees (useing ABUS Titalium) nor me (using Master Lock, please don’t ask my which line…) could find a lock which shackle was long enough which body was thin enough to fit below the lock. So you have to choose between the Segufix and the padlock. Alternatively, use seals like the ones for chastity cages so at least you know when your sub broke out.

Two Rubstraints connected using the Shorty Connector

The two restraints I have used for this review are wrist and ankle restraints. The wrist restraints cover a joint circumference of 14cm to 22cm, the ankle restraints 20cm to 28cm. A question I genuinely get often in regard of other restraints: If you have thin ankles, you can of course use wrist restraints on them or vice versa if you have strong wrists! Especially the industrial rubber is stiffer than leather. So the restraints have little give. Furthermore the basic tension inside the restraints means that the buckle pin will not rest on the roller when you just leave one hole between the buckle and the locking pin.

Along with the restraints themselves, you can order various connection belts. They are made out of the same Kevlar reinforced industrial rubber as the belts on the restraints and are just wide enough to perfectly fit inside the stainless steel gates. But since they do not have skin contact, they are not lined with soft latex. The core of each of these connectors is a Segufix locking pin. For the basic Shorty connector there are two rivet-reinforced holes. If you push them over the locking pin they create two loops for connecting two restraints. Another iteration of this design adds a stainless steel gate perpendicular to the rubber belt. For longer distances there are also adjustable, there are belts out there (ingenious product naming!). Instead of having just two holes wide enough apart to create the loops, the have a traditional belt hole layout. Additionally they are equipped with two stainless steel gates for added connectivity.

Detail of the Latex Body and Industrial Rubber Belts

Nota bene: While for this review I only looked at the cuffed restraints most often used in bondage, Cuffed created an entire system around the design also featuring collars, biceps and thigh restraints or a wide bondage belt. So they have gotten you covered for more elaborate or stricter bondage scenes.

If you have a medical/ asylum fetish that is not satisfied by the professional lock system Cuffed offers some of the restraints, belts and connectors off the rack with a tan belts and beige bodies. I am sure if you want other restraints from the system currently not included in this collection like the thigh restraints, they are open for custom commissions.

Like all rubber and latex items, the Rubstraints require a bit special care. Most important: Keep them away from oil and fat, including and especially Crisco! These substances will destroy the rubber! Since there is always a thin film of oil on the human skin, rubber should be washed after each scene either using simple, non-moisturizing dish soap or a special rubber detergent (my detergent of choice is Wonder Wash). Before storing them, make sure they are COMPLETELY dry (often water gets trapped in the tubes used for the piping) and seal the surface either with talcum powder or silicone lube to keep the rubber from oxidation. But regardless how well you take care of the Rubstraints, how thoroughly you clean and protect them from oxidation, they – like all rubber and latex times – will over time get old and finally break! So use them often and well to get the most fun out of them.

The Logo printed inside the Cuffs

If you want to learn more about rubber and latex, the perfect are and its appeal, check out my Rubber 101.

Playing with the Rubstraints

This is the first time I have ever written this about a piece of rubber bondage gear (except body bondage items lick sleeping bags): They work as well as their leather counterparts. The latex piped lining creates a soft and sharp edge-free surface that can actually be worn on bare skin over extended periods of time – even on a struggling sub! – without chafing. The thought-out placing of the rivets that connects the body to the belt diverts most of the force of a struggling sub to only the belt which is strong enough to deal even with strong subs. A testee submitted a body builder sub of his to tough e-stim torture and there was no noticeable wear and tear on the rubber or the rivets. So any rubber scene, any latex fantasy you would normally resort to using leather restraints can be turned into reality using the Rubstraints.

Detail of the Velcro

The most noticeable design difference to leather restraints is that as anchor points the Rubstraints use gates instead of D-rings. While this is an unusual decision I actually like the look at lot. It adds to the sleek, technical look and feel the thick, hard-edged rubber belts create. A drawback is that threading rope is difficult and attaching climbing carabiner is impossible. This is a very personal opinion and play preference of (most of) my testees and me but in our opinion “classic” rope clashes a bit with the modern look. “Rough” chain (with shackles as connectors) or “high-tech” nylon tension straps are a better match. The great advantage of gates are that if tied with enough tension and facing towards the short sides, the bondage medium stays in the corner and does not travel towards the apex like they have the tendencies on D-rings.

The Belt connected to a 90 Connector

The gates are also the foundation to incorporate the belt-style accessories. This is what set the Rubstraints really apart from all the other cuff style leather restraints I have reviewed and played with so far. The rubber straps being almost as wide as the gates, there is little vertical wiggle room so they create a stricter bondage than a carabiner would. Since they come in a variety of length, the severity of the bondage can be adjusted. For example, instead of using a belt to connect the ankle restraints and limiting the movement of the sub, a testee used the short Shorty which leave about 50mm of movement space. This leave the sub the theoretical possibility of walking around but practically it take a lot of practice to not fall over his own feet. Practice, easily enforces when tugging on his collar. Due to the added gate, the 90 are a bit wider (and actually come in two sizes).  While they take a bit away the strictness between the limbs, they add versatility. Now you can connect the two restraints pairs with either a short belt for a hogtie or a longer one when for a standing sub to create an interesting way to limit his movements (every time he takes a step, there will be a tugging on his wrists which especially when tied tightly behind his back adds another difficulty level). If you are more of a sadist, add a (spiked) parachute to his balls, run the rope through the gate and attach a weight. In this instance, the rope will travel from one corner to the other, causing the weight to swing, making the sub move and the weight swings more. There are many, creative, vicious and aesthetical pleasing ways to play with the connector. On the website from Cuffed there is a short, still extending guide with examples. So check this out if you need more inspiration. Another benefit of the rubber connectors are that they do not disturb the clean all-rubber and steel look the Rubstraints laid the basis for.

The Genuine Segufix Lock with Genuine Key

And last but definitely not least: The fetish aspect. They smell like a good piece of rubber gear should smell. The smell is so intense that opening up the box I store them in feels like opening my rubber closet. As for the looks the industrial rubber of the belts can either be high-shined to match latex suits yet is dull enough to appeal to the lovers of the rougher, dry or hazmat suit look. Other testee subs loved the Segufix lock. They bring a professional and heavy duty feel to the restraints. Especially a blindfolded sub familiar with the Segufix system will know what the faint and subtle “click” means when the lock is pushed over the locking pin.

A Personal Word from ToyTorture

Despite all the personal experience I try to make these reviews as objective as possible. So I have never written a truly personal opinion about a toy. But given the circumstances, I feel it necessary for this toy.

Rubber was my first true fetish and slowly venturing into the fetish, kink and BDSM scene, I first struggled a bit with good bondage gear were only available in leather. So locking back at my own past, I was genuinely excited for these restraints. When I opened the parcel, a wave of intoxicating rubber smell hit me! It was almost like Rubber@LAB – minus the smell of piss and poppers. I got them end of August and I was SO locking forward to using them on me, on subs, as photo prop. But due to the current circumstances, I only managed to get a few scenes as a top with them and was glad that I have testees with live-in subs to get more opinions on the toy for a review as you would expect it of ToyTorture.com.

ADarkGuy hogtied by ToyTorture using the Rubstraints

Yet still, every time I open the storage box for the Rubstraints in my playroom and smell the rubber and I see the shiny surface and feel the cold stainless steel I am heart-broken that a toy holding so much potential, so many fantasies inside them is just laying dead and unused in a box. So I truly hope that things will get better soon, that some time next year, I will lock these restraints around a rubber sub at Quälgeist or join one of my tops to Rubber@LAB. But for the moment these excellent pieces of bondage gear, German art of engineering and craftsmanship are a good example for all the things to look forward to once this pandemic is over.

Conclusion: The most effective, sturdy, fetish-please, thought-out and high quality rubber restraints.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Sturdy enough even for heavy bondage scenes and strong subs Will age over time and will eventually break Rubstraints Wrist Cuffs 169€
Rubstraints Ankle Cuffs 169€
Intense rubber smell and feel
Shorty Connector (2 pieces) 34,90€
Two anchor points 90 Connector 24,90€
Thought-out accessory system 90 Long Connector 29,90€
Belt 50 39,90€
Belt Back 59,90€

Deluxe Portable Sling

The Mr S Deluxe Portable Sling

Vendor: Mr S

The Deluxe Portable Sling seems like a weird toy to kick off the new review season. It is marketed as an easy to carry tool for power bottoms playing outside their familiar “wellness swing” – something which in current times does probably not happen often. Yet despite the social distancing, I have been getting more not less questions about this toy in the last couple of weeks. So I guess all the slingless bottoms are looking for a comfortable solution to stuff their greedy holes while staying alone.

Before I dive into the review, a quick shout out to my dear pervy Teck from Austria who kindly lent me his Deluxe Portable Sling for over half a year to test it thoroughly.

Detail of the Neck Cushion

Design

The core element of the Deluxe Portable Sling is one of Mr S almost iconic leather straps: Made out of soft yet sturdy belt leather, it is 3.3cm wide and about 160cmm long. The first 60cm on each side feature holes for the roller buckles with D-ring which is riveted onto the belts. Using the buckles, the loops’ circumference can be adjusted between 35cm and 60cm to accommodate each body type from short to tall. On each side there is a 20x5cm padded leather cushion, very much similar to the lining of Fetters Padded Restraint, which rides on the belt through three riveted leather loops. Between the buckles a lavishly padded back neck piece inspired by their posture collar rides on the belt via three riveted leather loops. This rather particular shape distributes the weight and draft more easily over the shoulders and the neck.

Detail of the Roller Buckle and the D-Ring

Playing with the Deluxe Portable Sling

Getting into this travel sling is very easy: Place the neck piece with the bulge facing towards your ass behind your neck. Then adjust the loops’ length so upper legs rest comfortably on the cushions placed just below your knees. If you want to raise your legs high, tighten the belt.

This adjustability is actually what sets the Mr S travel sling apart from other models on the market – in addition to the superior materials and craftsmanship of course. I have used this sling with bottoms between 167cm and 205cm and they all found a comfortable setting. Since both the leg and the neck cushion are movable, it can be easily moved for maximum comfort. Combining this with the fact that all cushions are really wide, the Deluxe Portable Sling is comfortable, even over extended periods of time. But to be frank, the upper back and neck still support the weight of the legs and every rocking motion is directly transferred onto them. So even if this travel sling feels almost as comfortable as sling you simply lay in, a kinky chiropractic I consulted did not recommend laying in this sling longer than half an hour and then take a break with upper torso stretching for at least 15 minutes.

Detail of the Leg Cushion

Another nifty feature are the d-rings on each side. They turn this penetration support into a piece of bondage gear. By locking wrist restraints or even better mitts onto them, the cock, balls and ass cheeks of the bottom are nicely exposed for all kinds of devious play. The d-rings are NOT for attaching handles for tops who want to pull their bottom closer during fucking! Especially rapid and forceful motions like pulling on them can damage the spin!

Conclusion: Best made and most comfortable travel sling out there
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Highly adjustable Despite everything, not a substitute for a real sling Mr S $189.95
Comfortable over long periods of time
D-rings for added bondage capability

Lederbondage Leather Sleepsack

Vendor: Lederbondage.com

Let’s start this review with a bit of German leather history: About 1 ½ decades ago, there was a kinky leather craftsman working for VW in Wolfsburg. By day he clad car interiors in leather, by night he crafted some exceptional pieces of bondage gear – including as far as I know ten sleepsacks which are called “VW sleepsacks” by their owners. I could not find out for what reason but this guy stopped making gear over a decade ago.

The Lederbondage.com Leather Sleepsack

Fast forward to the nowish time. One of my closest friends happens to own one of those sleepsacks. He knew I wanted one for my playroom so he got in touch with my other friends and they pooled for the birthday gift. He got in touch with a local leather tailor, sent his sleepsack as a sample, got my measurements and asked what features my ideal sleepsack should have and now after 2 ¼ years and many messages, I am reviewing one of the signature pieces of bondage gear in my playroom.

Detail of the Collar with the V-neck opening and Locking Roller Buckle

Construction

The cocoon-like body of the sleepsack is made out of 1.4mm thick medium-grain cow hide which is really soft. The entire sleepsack is lined with this hide so you end up with an almost 3mm thick layer of leather. But since the leather is so soft, is does not feel stiff but just hugs the sub’s body.

What now follows is all individually bespoke and can be crafted to your desires and needs. I went for a traditional neck to foot zipper. It is the easiest way to get into a sleepsack and especially in long-term scenarios more comfortable than to lay on a back zipper. I chose five runner for my zipper to create different opening for the crotch for example. To be honest, in all the play I had with the sleepsack, I only needed three runner (one to close, two to open up the crotch), because I ordered my sleepsack with tit flaps for easy nipple access. They measure 13x13cm on the outside with giving access to an area of 10x10cm and are attached using Velcro. The inside is smooth leather but I am sure you can also get it with spikes and pins for continuous stimulation.

Detail of the D-rings of Rope Tightening

I chose several means to increase the bondage and leather encapsulation sensation. First, there is the collar. It is attached to the sleepsack with a wide v-neck in the front so it ends with my jaw line without being uncomfortable around the neck. Through this design there is no gap between a hood and the sleepsack and if I want to wear a muzzle or a hood with an attached collar, it still fits because the zipper ends below the neck. Around the collar there is a belt with a locking roller buckle and D-rings for the psychological effect of being locked inside the sleepsack. It is a purely psychological effect because once your arms are inside the arm pockets which I commissioned and the zippers are closed, any person with my rough body shape is not able to escape the sleepsack.

Detail of the Belt’s Roller Buckle

On each side of the sleepsack, there are 8 welded 7mm wire strength stainless steel D-rings riveted with leather flaps using six rivets. Through these thick bridle leather belts with double thorn roller buckles can be threaded to increase the bondage tightness or adjust the fit if you are slimmer than me. In addition to them, there are 8 smaller D-rings with “just” one rivets attached each side of the zipper. They are for threading rope through them for an ever tighter bondage and adding a different color to the all black sleepsack. On each shoulder and on the feet pocket there is another big D-ring. While they can be used to tied the sleepsack to the bed, I added them to be suspended inside the sleepsack either hanging on the shoulders or in a hammock like setup.

In order to unleash the true long-term potential of the sleepsack, I commissioned a cushion to put between the legs. This way there is not friction on the ankles and knees which would limit the time inside the sleepsack. The firmness of foam is soft enough to be comfortable jet firm enough to keep the joints from pressing against each other. The seam is one big piping so it is completely smooth.

Detail of the Padded Leg Devider

Another advantage of having your sleepsack made by a leather tailor is that each sleepsack is made to measure. He does not simply purchase a sleepsack body and adds straps and D-rings as the customers asks, but builds everything from scratch. Through this, he knows his product inside out and if necessary can do alterations. Last year, I worked out my thighs a bit too much and gained so much muscle mass that I could not close the zipper around the legs anymore. I just send it in and he added two pieces of leather just around my thighs so the sleepsack maintained his overall fit. While the sleepsack feels solid and is made for scenes and generations to come, if you are nitpicky, you will little aesthetic flaws like not all rivets being set in exactly the same way, some belt holes might be a bit off. After all, he is not Mr S who make dozens of sleepsacks every year, but these little points does not affect the functionality. I gladly oversee these little flaws for having a leather sleepsack which is exactly how I want it to be. Also, he has made several of them since he made mine so I guess he gathered some experience making them by now.

Detail of the D-rings around the Sleepsack

Naturally, all that leather and metal comes at a weight. In my case, almost 10kg. Even when packed tightly, it is almost a quarter cubic meter. I have taken this sleepsack to events in Berlin but it is not the most handy piece of bondage gear to travel with, especially when you do not travel by car.

As I written, this sleepsack was tailored to my demands and expectations. The original VW sleepsacks did not have D-rings on the sleesack but on the belts which were equipped with locking posts. So before ordering one, my recommendation is to try out some different sleepsacks (if possible) to figure out how your sleepsack needs to look like!

Playing with Leather Sleepsack

If you are a regular reader, you will most likely notice that a few weeks ago, I reviewed a rubber sleepsack. The big question is: Why another, way more expensive one?

Detail of the Tit Flaps

First, there is a fetish aspect. Some people like leather, other like rubber. I like both.

So the major point is that inside a leather sleepsack the feeling of bondage is more intense. While rubber will stretch, leather does not give in. You are confined to the shell of a thick, heavy leather cocoon. Leather is the most common material in bondage because it is strong. You can fight, you can struggle, you can stretch, you can grab and (try to) tear. The leather will not give in. This also impact the tightening process. With the rubber sleepsack I have to be careful when threading the rope through the D-rings and tightening it. On this one, I can tug and pull to really get it tight without having to worry to rip the rivet out of the material.

Detail of the Shoulder D-rings for Suspension Bondage

Because of these properties, the leather sleepsack is for heavier play or subs who like to struggle. With the D-rings around the sleepsack, it can easily be tied down so there is no wiggle room left for the sub. This comes in handy when inducing intense amounts of agony like through electro, CBT or milking. The tit flaps are large enough to expose the nipples to wax. And while wax does not destroy leather, it tarnishes the surface so some level of care is necessary.

For floaty bondage, it depends on your style. As soft as the leather is, it still maintains some level of stiffness. The thickness isolates the bottom from his surroundings. Because of that, the belts around the sleepsack are so wide that when tightening them the sub really feels the force and strength of the top. Add to that the weight of the leather and the feeling of being bound and helpless is more intense than in a rubber sleepsack.

Detail of the Arm Pockets

In a normal playroom setting leather also offers a bit more comfort than rubber. Since the leather is so thick it regulates the temperature quite well as long as the room temperature is at a normal level and the sleepsack does not lay in the open sun. Being a natural material, it also absorbs some level of sweat. This is also the downside of leather. Unlike rubber it is very difficult to clean – especially a large piece of gear as a sleepsack. So if the scene should be long-term, I recommend putting a diaper on the sub. Because leather is so comfortable and the sweating is not really noticed unlike in rubber, hydration and overheating can become a problem. So check in with the sub regularly and maybe open a little gap in the zipper to check his body.

Conclusion: Very well made leather sleepsack with loads of extras and a few beauty flaws.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Made to measure with extras tailored to the sub’s requirements Little imperfections in the manufacturing execution tarnish overall outstanding quality Lederbondage.com Around 1.500€ depending on the extras and shipping
Lavish amount of D-rings for intense
Ordering process more difficult and longer compared to off the rack sleepsack
bondage Suspension capability
Top notch leather and metal trim quality
Exceptional value for money

 

Fetters Leather Chest Binder Restraints

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

Detail of the Torso Belt’s Closing Mechanism Using a Lock

The main body of this restraint is a 10cm wide belt made out of 3mm thick bridle leather. On one end there is a locking pin (which naturally comes with a lock) and on the other 15 rivet reinforced holes are punched to adjust the circumference between 94cm and 123cm so you can fetter almost any body type – from twink over body builder to stocky bear – with this restraint. For a more comfortable fit even during extended scenes, the bridle leather is lined with soft garment leather.

Onto this body, two sets of restraints are riveted: An upper arm on the side and a wrist restraint in the front. The follow the same design scheme with bridle leather body and garment leather lining. Their closing mechanism is the same as the one on the Fetters Locking Restraints: A 3cm wide belt, closed with a roller buckle and shut with a locking pin. They are attached using only one rivet so they can twist and turn to accommodate different anatomies. Into the buckle of the upper arm restraints there is D-ring integrated. Another attachment point is a D-ring in the front between the wrist restraints which is hold in place by a piece of leather and four rivets.

The Fetters Chester Binder Restraints

Detail of the Garment Leather Lining and the Edge of the Body’s Bridle Leather

As high quality the materials and craftsmanship of the Chester Binder Restraints are – like every toy and piece of gear made in the workshops of Fetters – a little drop of bitterness are the edges of the restraints. The lining is slightly larger than the rigid leather on the outside so when pressed against the body it covers to some extend the hard edge of it. But still, I would have wished for the outer leather to be dyed and burnished or to put a piping around all the edges for the edges to be line with the overall quality feel and craftsmanship of the toy.

Detail of the Central D-Ring

Playing with the Chest Binder Restraints

When I first got these restraints, my testees and I saw them more as a “mobile” restraint: While rendering the torso and its limbs almost completely useless, the sub can still move around. So the restraints are great for pride, street fairs or party setting where he should still be able to walk while enjoying an intense bondage experience. In clubs the D-rings come in handy because with them the sub can be easily fixed to a post or tied in a frame when he needs some timeout. It lies in the nature of the design of this toy that the nipples are not accessible. However they are good for flogging (novice tops) because the leather belt is a good divider between the area that can be hit and the one which should not. The floggee should have some experience already though because maintaining posture by just leaning against the cross and not hands to stabilize oneself is a challenge of its own – and can introduce a hot element of discipline and punishment if failing to.

The Chest Binder Restraints quickly won the favor of one of my testee panel tops who likes the aesthetic of classic fetish attire like leather uniforms or rubber cat suits and thus dislikes the coverage of straitjackets. Unlike straitjackets, the hands are free in these restraints which opens up a whole world of interesting tasks: Holding the ash tray for the top or a tablet in a cocktail party is almost stress bondage. Another possibility is to make the housework more difficult through the extremely limited range of hand and arm movement. If heavier bondage is desired, simply close the wrist restraints slightly below the wrist and add either Padded Fist Mitts or Bondage Mitts which can be connected to a (muzzle’s) collar.

Detail of the Upper Arm Restraint’s Closing Mechanism inlcuding a Roller Buckle, Locking Pin and a D-Ring

During one scene with a pain pig, I discovered the “stationary” potential of the Chest Binder Restraints. It is great tool to effectively fetter the torso and the upper arms in a lay-down bondage setup. Before the Chest Binder Restraints, I had to put the subs into a bondage harness which while effective, took quite some time to adjust and still left the upper arms unbound. With the D-rings on the side (and maybe running a tension strap through the front D-ring), the torso is effectively kept from getting up. A downside is the locking pin pressing into the back of the sub. Adding a small cushion can soften it, so he can stay bound for extended periods of time.

Conclusion: Extravagant, multipurpose restraints with almost perfect build quality.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Almost complete immobilization of the arms while allowing to move around Edges of the restraints are not as well executed as the could be Regulation £148.99
Sub still (somehow) able to serve while bound
Enough D-rings for more complex bondage layouts
Leaves gear visible, most of the body accessible and does not a lot of coverage in hot environments