Mr S Four Buckle Hand Restraints

Vendor: Mr S


The Outside of the Restraints

The Outside of the Restraints

Describing the shape of these restraints is a bit hard. A piece of padding covers everything from the front of the palm, the back of the hand down to way below the wrist. To make wearing the restraints more comfortable and enabling holding onto something there is a padding going between the thumb and the forefinger thus you have a left and a right restraint. The padding is 16mm tick, very soft and covered in soft either black or grey leather. Onto the part which goes over the palm four sturdy straps out of 3,5mm thick belt leather are riveted. Into the straps are enough holes punched to enable enclosing even very large hands. Fastening them is made easy due to the rolling buckles which are equipped with pointed pins so they go into the holes more easily. Each restraint has two D-rings: One on the palm side hold in place by a leather loop embossed with the Mr S logo and one attached just behind the buckle of the upper strap going around the wrist.

The Inside of the Restraints lined with the soft padding

The Inside of the Restraints lined with the soft padding

As always with Mr S the metal work is superb: Solid welded D-rings are hold in place by sturdy rivets so these restraints will withstand even the heaviest of play.

Playing with it

The Back of the Restraints with all four Buckles fastend

The Back of the Restraints with all four Buckles fastend

The construction of these restraints is ideal for any fixation with the hands above the head. When using the D-ring on the palm side the draft of the fixation pulls on the entire restraints evenly instead of pulling one side up and shifting the entire restraint like when using a cuff-style restraint with D-rings on the side. Furthermore the two lower straps support the wrist in staying upright even when the sub clings to the restraints when standing on the tip of his toes. This support is vital to prevent at best tiring out the joint or cutting circulation, at worst injuries from happening. Due to this property I highly recommend these restraints when attaching the sub to a St. Andrews cross. I especially recommend them for flogging: In order to relax the muscles of the upper back the upper arms should be in line with the shoulders like when tied onto a Latin cross. But when adding a bit of rope between the upper eyebolt and the palm side D-ring you can achieve that position on a St. Andrews cross.

The Front of the Restraints when worn

The Front of the Restraints when worn

What this restraint isn’t made for supporting your entire body weight! Of cause when tightening the straps firmly (for potential risks see last paragraph) your hand will not slip out of the restraint. But the draft will apply pressure from below on the hand bones which can cause injuries. Also due to the force the shoulders have to deal with in this stress position there is a higher risk of dislocation. If you want to suspend someone into the air for a short period of time, attach the restraints to a sturdy spread bar the sub can hold onto. For an extended period of time add at least a pair of padded foot suspension restraints (and better even add a waist belt) and always be aware of the threat of suspension trauma.

Detail of the Roller Buckle

Detail of the Roller Buckle

But these restraints are not only good for suspending someone standing up quite straight. They are also ideal for “traditional” bondage when lying down. Especially when you like to tie your subs into a spread eagle the palm side D-ring helps distribute the draft better than a traditional leather cuff. If you are a bondage enthusiast who enjoys the feeling of heavy and tight bondage gear these restraints I recommend them as a substitute for cuff-style wrist restraints. I had boys getting a boner just from the feeling of the four leather straps being tightened around their hand. Once fastened using both D-rings on anchor points in different moving dimensions will limit the movement of the hands quite strongly. Sadly these restraints don’t have at least one locking strap which would have added to the overall feeling of being caught in them.

The Mr S logo emobssed on the loop holding the front D-Ring

The Mr S logo emobssed on the loop holding the front D-Ring

How long these restraints can be worn depends on the form of the restrained hands and how tight you fasten the two upper straps. Since the tissue between your thumb and your forefinger is soft and gives in easily fastening the strap running between these two fingers too strong can cut the circulation. A similar yet not as extreme effect can happen with the strap running across the hand. Usually the thick padding prevents this from happening but if you want a really tight feeling of your hand being bound by leather be prepared that after some time restraints will have to get loosened.

Conslusion: The best restraints for over-head suspension I know and a great substitute for wrist cuffs
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Comfortable to wear even in stress position Risk of cutting circulation when fastening too tight Mr S $179,95
Intense feeling of being restrained Not locking
Two D-rings
Great build quality

Stylefetisch Leather Straps

Vendor: Stylefetisch


Detail of the Roller Buckle

Detail of the Roller Buckle

Today I am basically reviewing leather belts. So the basic construction is fairly simple: It is a 35mm wide and 4mm thick strap made out of black, fine grained leather. You can get in various lengths; the ones I have gotten are 130cm, 120cm and 110cm but I guess you can also get them shorter. It features double punching starting approx. 18cm behind the buckle, each hole being reinforced by rivets. The spacing between the holes is 30mm so the belt can be adjusted quite finely. The buckle is a two-thorn roller bucket which makes closing and opening the belt easy.

Detail of the double punched strap

Detail of the double punched strap

Playing with it

I consider this type of toy a playroom essential because it comes in handy in so many situations: Tightening a bit too loose sleep sack, adding straps to a spanking bench, tying someone to a bondage table or a pole. Since these restraints are not padded I would only use them on areas which are naturally well padded like thighs, ass or the upper back. If you want to tie joints like the wrist or ankle down, make sure they are protected, p.e. through a pair of boots or thick gloves or use other, traditional padded restraints. Of cause for all these situations you can use rope but frankly for 4€ a piece, having some of them at hand when you need something quick is a wise investment in my opinion.

Conslusion: Basic and inexpensive dungeon essential
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Inexpensive No substitute for normal restraints Stylefetisch 4€

Bon4 Metal Chastity Cage Regular

Vendor: Mister B

The Cage locked with a 51mm Ring attached

The Cage locked with a 51mm Ring attached

Chastity is one of the big things in (gay) BDSM. Handing over the control of one’s dick and orgasms to a top is one of the biggest sacrifices a sub can do without interfering too much with his day to day schedule. This is what makes chastity devices so intriguing.

Despite its popularity I haven’t done a chastity device review yet. I owned two: A CB6000 and a cheap steel one. The first was too small for my soft dick, the second had too sharp edges and without a proper and in-depth testing I am not writing reviews. So I was pleasantly surprised when Mister B sent me the new Bon4 Steel Chastity Cage size Regular to review. And I was more pleasantly surprised when I found out that it actually fits my soft dick.

Detail of the Locking Pin with Pad Lock

Detail of the Locking Pin with Pad Lock


The construction of this chastity device is fairly standard besides its being made out of brushed stainless steel. There is a cage which is connected to a ring behind your balls which keeps it from falling off. The cage is approx. 8,5cm long with a diameter of 3,7cm for the shaft and approx. 5cm for the glans. Between the cage and the ring there are two pegs with 1,2cm length to keep both parts at a comfortable distance and adding up to a total usable length of 9,7cm. The chastity device comes with four rings with the following diameters: 39mm, 44mm, 47mm and 51mm. With this variety the device should fit most dicks. If you have a smaller one you can always take a look at the small version for 149€.

The device has a few unique properties due to the material. The rings have a hinge at the bottom which makes putting it on quite easily. I have also heard a lot of reports from friends who’s dicks broke plastic/ silicone chastity devices over time due to material fatigue. This is defiantly not going to happen with this device. The build quality of the toy I have gotten is superb but if there should be any rough or uncomfortable spaces the toy comes with a little sheet of fine sandpaper and tape to mend these spots. There is also a small lock in black bag the toy comes in.

Playing with it

Detail of the hinged ring

Detail of the hinged ring

It is kind of hard to write this section. The chastity cage isn’t really a toy, it is a control device made to be worn 24/7. With the high build quality and the material which will withstand moisture and physical stress the Bon4 Metal Chastity Cage is up to the challenge. But in the end more than even any piece of gear it has to fit perfectly to fulfill its purpose. A too loose ring and you can get out of it easily or it will simply fall off when walking. A too tight ring will make wearing it for a long time uncomfortable or can even cause damage to your genitals due to cut circulation. So even more than with other toys I urge you to try it out if it fits you. If you have problems with the ring sizes Bon4 offers addition ones with 36mm and 56mm diameter. The lock is quite a high quality one but still it is more a psychological barrier for the sub. A skilled lock pick will sooner and a desperate sub will later figure out how to open it with a pair of paperclips. For checkable security I recommend using numbered plastic locks.

One of the greatest problems with chastity cages is hygiene. Most devices only have small holes for pissing and some for water because materials like plastic doesn’t allow for bigger ones without compromising stability. Yet again stainless steel doesn’t have this problem so the case basically consists out of holes with some beams which makes hygiene not problem. You simply shower wearing the cages and you are all set. The material also opens the door for some torture possibilities. Since metal picks up temperature quite easily most subs fund mild ice and fire play… interesting. And I probably don’t need to tell you that steel is conductive. Of cause there is a downside: The metal makes the cage way heavier than the plastic ones. My testees had very different opinions on that topic: Some found it uncomfortable, some loved the constant pull and movement on the balls.

Everything you get when you order the Bon4 Metal Chastity Cage

Everything you get when you order the Bon4 Metal Chastity Cage


This review covers only the “technical” aspects of the Bon4 Metal chastity cage. Chastity never has quite been my kink, partly because I was frustrated with the cages not fitting my dick. I also didn’t find the thought of handing control of my dick over to a top tempting. For this review I have worn the device on and off for a couple of days and was genuinely impressed how much I liked it. Yet a true long term test has yet to be done. A top friend of mine has challenged me to a week of chastity which will begin this Sunday. You can expect a small blog entry every day about my experiences and problems with the cage. But a week doesn’t say much about true long term usability. I have been looking for a sub to be locked up for quite some time and as soon as I have found one and put into the device for an extended period of time there will be a follow-up review.

Conslusion: High quality and robust chastity cage
Pro Cons Where to get Price
High build quality Heavier than other chastity devices Mister B 159€
Regulation £ 119,99
Sturdy material Can be a bit more visual under the clothes than other devices
Good hygiene


Buyers Guide to Restraints

About every other week I get a message asking me about different aspects of choosing the right restraints. So in order to get back into writing articles, I condensed the collected answers into this piece. If you feel something is missing or have a recommendation, feel free to send me an e-mail.



Restraints can be made out of any material that is somewhat soft and can withstand force. Because of that I will only cover the most common ones you will come across in most stores. Some special kind of restraints like Segufix or everything only made out of metal will probably be featured in a future article.


It is the most common material to make restraints out of. It is very durable if taken correct care off, will withstand force and is soft and gentle to the skin – if you take the right leather. The right leather means a more softer (and mostly thinner) hide on the inside (mostly calf, lamb or fine cow) and a thicker, sturdier hide on the outside (mostly cow, bull, swine, but also kangaroo or buffalo).

Leather Restraints

Leather Restraints

I would advise you not to be doing too much of kinky on a budget when purchasing leather restraints. First they are an investment that will stay with you for many years and you will use in almost every scene, secondly in recent years east Asian manufacturers discovered the kink market. Their quality of products ranges from shocking to fairly decent. The biggest issue with any leather toys from Asia are that most hides are treat with chemicals like Chromium to save time and money. You will most likely wear this kind of leather on your bare skin which can lead to allergies. And unlike jeans p.e. you can’t wash restraints 10 times in order to get the chemicals out of there. This will not be the case with every leather toy you will get from East Asia but it is something to keep in mind, especially when you shop around on eBay. I would always recommend investing a few bucks more and support a local dealer who knows where is products come from.


Most fabric restraints are made out of nylon but I have seen cotton, canvas and even cevlar ones. They are lighter and smaller than leather restraints and are mostly on the lower end of the price range. This makes them good for starters or if you want to keep a little emergency set in your toy box just in case you forget you bondage bag. Depending on the material they are really easy to clean and disinfect.


There are two types of rubber restraints out there: the one made out of soft latex that is also used on fetish wear and thicker, harder rubber (in Germany we call them „old tires“).

As much as I love rubber as a material general speaking but for a few exceptions rubber restraints are not made for hard play. You can restrict movement with them but if someone really struggles or fights against them, they will probably break (I have destroyed three pairs so far in my BDSM career). The thicker rubber ones are able to withstand more force but are also stiffer. You can find them for little money on eBay but most of the time they just cut rubber mats in stripes and added a few metal piece. But due to being stiff the edges are hard and can cause bruises when struggling in them. If you purchase such restraints in a dedicated kink store the edges will most likely be deburred which makes them less harmful but they still won’t be comfortable.

If you want more comfortable rubber restraints go for the latex ones. They are as soft as any rubber attire piece. Sadly the comfort is traded in for durability. The manufacturers try to deal with the issue by putting fabric tape between two layers of latex. I am definitely not the strongest sub in the world and a layer of fabric tape between two layers of 0.9mm of latex didn’t stop me from tearing them apart. I have talked to my local kink master mind at Demask in Dortmund and he told me that Kevlar as a fabric is really the only way to make durable simple rubber restraints. But Kevlar is a difficult material to work with as is rubber and latex overall. Thus the prices for rubber restraints are rather high compared to leather ones. However there is a big benefit with rubber restraints: unlike leather they can get a dirty and wet as you want them to be. So if you want to restrain yourself or your sub in the piss area (or nastier places…), I would advise using rubber or…


There a number of different neoprene variants out there all of which I have seen turned into restraints. Covering every one would be too much for this article so please check at Wikipedia which one works best for you. All kinds of neoprene are sturdier than rubber and can deal with dirty, wetness and can deal fairly well even with oils so they are the material you want to use in a gunge or oil scene.



Restraints consist of a body and depending on the closing mechanism also a strap.

The body is the part you wrap around the part of the sub’s body you want to restrain.

There are three ways to construct a body:

  1. One piece non-folded: In this case the body is made out of one piece of sturdy (and hopefully somewhat comfy) leather. When purchasing make sure that the edges are not sharp so there is no injury possibility.


    Trice Folded Leahter Restraint

  2. One piece folded: A folded one piece is made of a single piece of mostly a bit softer leather folded at least once so on one side you have a piping-like edge. The other side can feature a piping which is not really necessary when the leather is soft enough. Because a piping is always thicker than just a fold the restraint might look a bit imbalanced with piping just on one side. You will find a seam around the open side, good folded restraints also have a seam on the fold for added stability.
  3. Two pieces: Most leather restraints are a two piece construction with stiffer leather on top and softer leather (or fleece, fur, suede etc. as lining) on the inside. Between these layers padding can be added. Padding does not only make restraints more comfortable for long term wearing, they also can create pressure without cutting circulation when you tighten the restraints using a buckle (see below). Since you have two more or less stiff leather edges, good two piece restraints have a piping running around them to make them smoother. The advantage of piping is that it can be made in a different color this bringing a bit more color into your play bag or displaying your hanky.

Padding on a Leather Restraint

Straps, buckles, D-rings, etc. are mostly held in place by rivets holding down a leather strap (I have seen them sewed down but I strongly believe that just some thread holding down a d-ring a sub is pulling isn’t a good solution). With every construction but the one piece non-fold it is a personal or design decision if you want the counter part of the rivet touching your skin. Since the rivets are mostly made out of stainless steel there is no medical issue with them touching the skin, but the sensation at least at the beginning is a bit different since they are colder and harder than the surrounding leather. Because of that

most of the time the counterparts are put between two layers of leather or below the padding (a prominent example where it isn’t the case are the Mr S Fetters USA Padded Locking Restraints).



The most common method to close a restraint is using a strap with different types of clasps:

  1. Roller Buckle on a two piece Leather Restraint with Piping

    Roller Buckle on a two piece Leather Restraint with Piping

    Buckle: Probably the most traditional closing method that works like a belt. Good buckles have a roller buckle which makes pulling the strap through the buckle more easily. The hole spacing determines how accurately you can adjust the restraints. If the strap is made out of more than one piece of leather the holes should be reinforced by metal rings so that the pin won’t accidently harm the edges of the hole. This is not necessary if you use a locking restraints with eyelets because the “pin” is round and smooth (see below).

  2. Double D-ring: On the end of the strap there are two d-ringthrough which you thread the strap.The advantage of this kind of mechanism is that the restraints can be adjusted steplessly.
Bail closing with a 20mm padlock

Bail closing with a 20mm padlock

Not a clasp but still requiring a strap are bails. The strap has slots punched into it where you pull the bails through. In order to fix the restraints, you can use a carabiner or a padlock. Since the hole distance is mostly the same than with a buckle strap this kind of restraint is as tight as a buckle one but faster and locking. But you always need some hardware to close it.

If you don’t want to deal with a strap there are some restraints out there using (industry grade) Velcro. The advantage of Velcro is that it is easy to handle, steplessly adjustable and gives especially the newbie a sense of security (if something goes wrong, just pull it open).


Attachment Points

Once you have put the restraints on, you need to attach them to something in order to restrict the restraint person’s movements. I have seen restraints with just a leather loop sewed to the restraints. I am not really convinced that this will work because leather stretches out and as written under construction I don’t trust threads with holding down power subs. In my opinion the only real deal are D-rings. Most of them are made out of metal but I have seen ones made out of plastic. Because nowadays there are some amazing kinds of strong and durable kinds of plastic out there, I can’t really say anything against them. But I haven’t tried them out; if you have experience with restraints with plastic D-rings, please contact me.

D-Ring hold in place by rivets

D-Ring hold in place by rivets

The majority of metal D-rings are made out of stainless steel so they won’t break – if they are welded. In order to save money I have seen non-welded ones (on the bottom there is a little gap instead of a weldseam). If the force pulling on the D-ring is always directly opposite of the gap, this is no problem. But in most situation the force will pull on one or the other end thus pulling the D-ring open!

Regarding the number of D-rings that is really a personal choice. For “basic” restraints like wrist and ankle one D-ring per restraint is enough, but p.e. for a thigh restraint I would want at least three. General speaking more is better when it comes to the number of D-rings because it gives you more pervy options.



I know off two ways of building in a locking option into a restraint: the eyelet way and the Mr S way (I call it that way because I have only seen it used on restraints by Mr S). When using the eyelet way there is a small eyelet inside the pin of the buckle where you put a padlock through. The eyelet is usually big enough for a 20mm padlock.

Locking Buckle with Eyelet

Locking Buckle with Eyelet

The big downside of this method is that through the eyelet the pin gets fairly wide thus the holes in the strap have to be larger and can’t be reinforced by rivets. The last point is only a style thing: there is less metal on the restrains and the belt should be made out of a single piece of thick leather (s.o.). The first point is influencing play because due to the larger holes you can’t close the restraints in as fine pitches as with a normal pin buckle.

Mr S has found a solution for that: they take a normal pin buckle and put a stud with an eyelet behind the buckle. Once you have closed the strap in the buckle you fix the buckle in place over the stud and put a 20mm padlock inside the eyelet. Through this combination you can adjust the restraints finely and still lock it.


Types of restraints

Most people think of the leather cuffs for wrists and ankles when they hear restraints. But there are a lot of other cuffs out there so you can create a Segufix-like full body suspension: Cuffs for thighs, upper arms and belts for chest and hips. And for special purpose´s there are a ton of different special restraints out there like:

This list makes no claim of being complete because there are a lot of pervy minds out there creating new and exciting kink gear every day.


What restraints should I buy?

I have written this article to give a short (and probably incomplete) overview what aspects of a restraint impacts the play so you can make a decision what you want to look for when you shop around for restraints.

Double D-ring

Double D-ring

In my opinion even if you are a rope top you should at least have a pair of wrist and ankle restraints just in case you want to quickly suspend someone. If you are a sub you should own the perfect (and perfectly fitting!) restraints you want to have used on you so there is not disappointment when the top wants to restrain you and his don’t fit.

What specific restraints I would recommend really depends on your budget. You can get a pair of high quality leather restraints for around 50€ (like mine from McHurt), if you can deal with the uncertainty of the way the hides have been treated, pick up the ones from The Anubis Pack because you get entire basic set plus thigh restraints and collar for £56.If money isn’t really an issue I would recommend the locking restraints from Fetters USA from Mr S. I brought them over from the US for a friend of mine, they are great manufacturing and leather quality , are locking and have to D-rings, basically anything I would want in a pair of restraints but that comes with a price: $129.95 for the wrist restraints, $139.95 for the ankle restraints. What I would always recommend is going to your local kink store, try them out, get an experts opinion and buy what you feel comfortable with.


If you have any further question, you can always write me an e-mail, send me a tweet @ToyTorture or hit me up on Recon or PlanetRomeo at ToyTorture.

Anubis Pack 7 Piece Padded Leather Restraint Set

Vendor: Anubis Pack

From left to right: Wrist, Ankle, Thigh, Collar

From left to right: Wrist, Ankle, Thigh, Collar

From top to bottom: Wrist, Ankle, Collar, Thigh

From top to bottom: Wrist, Ankle, Collar, Thigh

I have treated myself to these restraints as a Christmas gift because I wanted a second pair of restraints and I wanted locking ones. Since a lot of my friends who are in the market for leather restraints or locking restraints this review is one by public demand. If you want a review of one of my toys, just send me a mail.


The set consists of a pair of wrist restraints, a pair of ankle restraints, a pair if thigh restraints and a collar which makes it the perfect combination for puppy play I believe. All restraints are made out of leather and come in black. It is their genuine design and they are made in a factory in Malaysia exclusively for the Anubis Pack and their distributors.

I have to say, these are one of the most complex and most interestingly constructed padded restraints I have come across. The padding is stored inside a cushion of soft leather with the edges folded around so there are no sharp edges or any irritations due to skin rubbing on the seam. This cushion is sewed to a thick, sturdy piece of leather. Interestingly the guys decided not to add the closing strap onto the top of the body but the body and cushion leather runs out into the strap with 2.5cm of hole spacing. On top of the body runs a strap which holds the D-rings (two for ankle and wrist restraints, three for the collar and a lavish four for the thigh restraints) and the buckle in place. All buckles are lockable but sadly not roll buckles. The restraints come in one size fits (really) all:

  • Collar restraints: 31cm to 47cm circumference
  • Wrist restraints: 10cm to 27cm circumference
  • Thigh restraints: 40cm to 57cm circumference
  • Ankle restraints: 14cm to 31cm circumference

Playing with them

Non roller locking buckle

Non roller locking buckle

These restraints feel SOLID! Due to the construction with up to six layers of leather they are stiffer than other restraints and will take a longer period to be broken in. Because the buckles don’t have a roll tightening the restraints can be a bit of an effort especially in the breaking-in period. But due to the soft and thick padding you can apply a fairly big amount of force when putting them on without hurting the sub. Through the unique strap construction and the one size fits all approach there is a fairly large unpadded area when using the holes for the wider setting. This is something I haven’t experienced with other restraints. But that being said I your sub has to be REALLY beefy and big in order to be forced to use these holes.

Ankle Restraint in smallest and largest hole

Ankle Restraint in smallest and largest hole

Once they have been put onto your sub they perform like every leather restraints but they really start to shine when it come to elaborate bondage scenes. Through the large number of D-rings you have many points you can attach to a bed, to a frame or to each other. A nice touch is that the strap running over the D-rings is not only hold down by rivets but seam is holding down the D-ring even tighter. I am skeptical how much of the pulling force is distributed to the rivets and thus how long the seam will withstand the pulling. But for now I like how little play the D-ring has. Because the seams on the lower side are well embedded inside the padding and the fold is sewed under the body of the restraints the chance of irritations during long term bondage is very low. The locking buckles don’t really add anything physical to the play but for many subs not being able to just pull the strap loose is a great mindfuck. You can lock the restraints using a standard 20mm pad lock.

Conslusion: Reliable restraint set for a great price
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Great value for money Great value for money Anubis Pack (Manufacturer) Apparently not available any more. Last known price £56
Thick padding Thick padding
Many D-rings Many D-rings
Locking Locking
Great value for money  

Christmas Gift Tip III: Kinky Teddy Bears

One of the first pieces of advice I have gotten when I have started to get into heavier play was to always have something to hold onto ready when the endorphins should crash down hard. So I made it a rule to have a stuffed animal around when I had a play session. It is a standard one that might look a bit odd in a dungeon. Luckily there are a number of different options out there to get some kinky inspired cuddle material not only for the playroom but your couch or to piss of your siblings when you give their youngsters an “alternative” stuffed animal.

For many years Fetters has been making teddy bears made out of leather. Depending on the model they can be customized in dozens of ways: Different color combinations, collars, toys, etc.


 Daddy Fetter Bear 60cm around 110€


Bondage Fetter Bear 60cm starting at 112€

Fetters3Baby Fetter Bear 60cm around 90€

Just recently Recon teamed up with Fetters to create a teddy bear in their icon color combination of black and read. He comes collard and has a zipper pocket on the back to maybe store other post session stuff like chocolate.


Recon Cable Lock Leather Bear 88,88€

If you are not into leather and like the “classic” plushy bears there are also a number of different options out there.

HM Leather offers teddy bears in three different versions of leather gear from full body harnesses to chaps and vest.


HML Scene Teddys 39,90€

The SlingKing teddy bear is the ideal choice for bondage boy coming in a full body harness, leather cap, blindfold and restraints.


SlingKing Bär Marci 89,95€

If you are like me more of a pain pig Peitschenhandel has an entire range of stuffed pain pigs… ehm… bears engaging into tit torture, flogging or being bound into all kinds of positions.

Peitschenhandel1Peitschenhandel Teddy with Nipple Clamps 19,99€

Peitschenhandel3Peitschenhandel Teddy with stand pillory, Flogger and Shirt 59,90€

Christmas Gift Tip II: SeriousToyS Rubber Sarcophagus

SeriousToyS Rubber Sarcophagus without a person inside

SeriousToyS Rubber Sarcophagus with the sub placed inside ready for the air to be sucked out

I have been in a bunch of crazy and intense bondage device but when I recently strolled through my local kink store Demask Dortmund I was amazed when I saw this piece of dungeon furniture: A rubber sarcophagus. It is basically two rubber bags filled with pellets connected with a run-around zipper. You lie down between the bags, wiggle around to create a bit of space around you and suck the air out of both chambers. The feeling afterwards is a bit like being restrained between big packs of vacuum packed coffee beans. Depending on the space you have created before the air got sucked out you can move a bit but not much (definitely too little to work pain out, at least for me…). The feeling of confinement isn’t as strict as being in a vacuum bed or cube but the upside it that there isn’t constant pressure on your thorax so in theory you can stay inside the sarcophagus indefinitely long. But despite other vacuum dungeon furniture the material gets compact and stable enough to support an average weight person to stand or sit on it. To make the time inside a bit more interesting there are access points for the genitals, nipples and the head.

The surface pattern once the air is sucked out

The sub ecapsulated inside the rubber sarcophagus

Due to being a kind of sarcophagus the guys at Demask Dotmund went for an Egyptian inspired design but since it is build to order rubber color and trim can be customized. You can order this bespoken dungeon furniture via e-mail. Price upon request.

Update 01/15/2014:

I have just gotten a mail from the guys at Demask in Dortmund: This specific sarcophagus has been sold. If you still want one, get in touch with them. It will be made to your speficications which include size, rubber color and trim as well as the number and position of access points.


SlingKing Upper Arm Restraints

Vendor: SlingKing


Detail of the roller buckle

Detail of the roller buckle

In difference to any other restraints I have reviewed so far this pair is not padded. They are made out of one piece of pigskin which is folded three times making the restraints approx. 3mm thick and 58mm wide. The strap to secure the restraints is made out of two layers of thick leather nearly reaching 5mm thickness and has 5 metal reinforced holes to adjust the restraints. The strap also secures two D-rings which are held in place by four strong rivets. These rivets are covered with leather in the inside so in case of a metal allergy there is no direct contact between the sub and the metal. As with the restraints from McHurt all metal parts don’t seem to be made out of stainless steel but heavily chromes steel and are sturdy enough to withstand a tough scene.

The restraints in the smallest and the widest adjustment

The restraints in the smallest and the widest adjustment

You can get the restraints in two sizes: S/M which are made for a circumference between 22cm to 29cm and the one I have got which go from 29cm to 33cm. Regarding the color, they are black but you can choose between a black, red or white lower layer of the tightening strap.

Playing with it

Since the restraints are not padded the bend very easily once they have been broken in. They easily wrap around the upper arm and tightening is a piece of cake. Because the pressure is applied directly to the tissue I personally feel that I can sense more easily if they are too tight compared to padded restraints. I would recommend this kind of restraints for struggling subs compared to padded ones, especially because I had the feeling that they keep the sub a bit better in place than padded ones. Of cause you have to trade of a bit of comfort and forgiveness for “bad” restraining: If these restraints move in a bad way, they will cut off circulation. But since you don’t have to work through the give of the padding they are more easily to open than padded ones.

Reinforced holes on the strap and rivets holding the d-ring in place

Reinforced holes on the strap and rivets holding the d-ring in place

How well they fit really depends how defined the biceps of your sub is. The hole distance is 1cm which theoretically allows you fine adjustability. However fettering them too tight will impact circulation which worsen problems with too tight hand restraints, adjusting them too loose and they are useless because unlike with wrist or ankle there isn’t a foot or hand stopping them moving down. So if there is a defined muscle you can slide the restraints a bit until they find “grip”.

Once they are fitted, they are great. Because of the two D-rings which are lying on opposite sites put on you can realize even elaborate restrain scenarios like tying  the restraints to a collar or connecting them behind the sub’s back. Despite the D-rings having a bit more play than the ones on the McHurt restraints when tightening the attached ropes they keep the sub in place very well.

Unfinished edge of the trifolded leather

Unfinished edge of the trifolded leather

When purchase they are a bit stiff. It got better after a few scenes and using leather conditioner but when playing with them out of the box you need to be a bit more careful than you usually are (not that you aren’t extra careful anyways when you use a new toy ;)). Even when broken in they can leave mild to severe pressure marks when tightened strongly. I wouldn’t recommend them for long time scenes especially not on bare skin. You also have to be very careful when you sub can twist his arms a lot (unlikely yet possible): Due to the triple folding there is an unfinished and mildly sharp edge on the inside which can cause irritation or even bloody scratch marks (I am talking about power subs here).

Regarding the size I have so voice a bit of warning: I – sadly – don’t have the best trained and thus biggest upper arms on this planet. However, tightened correctly I am already using the third of the 5 holes. I can imagine that you will get problems fitting these restraints to a really beefy sub. If you want to use them as an accessory or for self bondage I found it a pain in the ass to get them onto me. On the plus side, you can use the S/M size as a wrist restraint and the L/XL one as an ankle restraint with two D-rings. They are actually the cheapest two D-ring restraints in decent quality and genuine leather I have found so far.

Conslusion: Most versatile and most comfortable long term cockring I have used to date
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Well made Leather edge on the skin side SlingKing (Manufacturer) 45,95€
Two D Rings Too small for people with large upper arms
Fairly inexpensive  

Mr S Bishop Head Harness

The harness with the blindfold and gag put in place

I have explained at length in this blog entry why I want the Mr S Bishop Head Harness. When I first was put into this head harness I was thrilled with the sensual and session entry potential of this toy.

Besides that it is practical and versatile: It comes with a cover for the eyes so you can use it as a blindfold, a pecker gag and leather mouth cover so you can silence your sub. Furthermore there are D rings on the collar and if I understood the people Mr S correctly a custom D ring can be added to the top of the harness so you can tie your subs in various positions. And I haven’t even started to think about tying clamps, ball stretcher, etc. to it. I haven’t had enough time to play around with it to discover every possible use but I presume that with a little alteration it can also be used as a tight muzzle.

The two different options to cover the sub’s mouth

I am aware that at a price point of $379.95 at the date of publishing it isn’t an inexpensive toy and more expensive as if you would buy gags, blindfold and collar together. But the unique combination and versatility makes it definitely a worthy addition to every collection or play bag of serious players.


Usually this website focuses on the functional aspect of BDSM toys: How do they perform at doing what you bought them for. And to a large extended that makes sense being the only “hard” way of judging a toy even though because pain and restriction is felt by everybody else differently the verdict is a bit spongy. Because of that I have adjusted the ways reviews are written.

Last weekend at a party of the Chicago Hellfire Club I consciously experienced  for the first time another quality of a toy: The sensual aspect. Before a flogging session the top asked me if I needed to be blindfolded which I confirmed. He told me to kneel down and put the Mr S Bishop Head Harness  (and you wonder why it is today’s Desiderate) with just the blindfold on. From the practical point of view I was a bit disappointed because my cheap basic blindfold from SlingKing performed better at blocking out all light (or perhaps the harness was not adjusted perfectly). But what followed intrigued me:  The top spend a couple of minutes adjusting the leather straps, putting the harness in place, asking me if the collar wasn’t too tight. At least for me it had a great level of intimacy; it felt the top cared for me and caressed his precious torture toy. After the harness was fitted he told me to stand up and guided me to the St. Andrews Cross holding me on my shoulders which added to the deep feeling of trust an intimacy. So even before the main party of the session had started I was already half way in headspace which felt great.

After this experience I went through my toy collection and instantly discovered several toys with a sensual value. So maybe after returning to Germany I will write an article about “sensuatables” –toys with sensual potential.

If some rich admirer of my website is still looking for a birthday present: I wouldn’t say no to such a head harness… 😉