Unboxing the VAST Breathing System

Important Security Information

As hot and horny breath play is, NEVER DO IT ALONE OR BY YOURSELF! Every year we lose several members of the kink community to self-breathplay. No matter how much you think you have figured out the safety and falls backs, the is always a slight and sadly often lethal chance of it failing.

This especially applies to playing with inhalants like poppers or N2O/ laughing gas.

If you are curious about breath play, look for experienced partners to introduce you to this kink and its intricacies. Please never do it alone!

I have known VAST (formerly Demask Dortmund) for almost 1 ½ decades. It is where I have bought my first rubber surf suit, where my sling is from and the owner and founder made the technical drawings for the bondage capable bed I am still sleeping in. Jens is not only a truly kinkster at heart but also a creative engineer who comes up with all sorts of new and horny designs. Half a year ago he told me about a system designed to make breathplay easier and safer. Since a lot of you guys are interested in this kink and I have ignored the review requests due to security concerns, I was instantly interested in it.

1 ½ weeks ago a BIG parcel arrived with a mix of final and pre-production elements of the VAST Breathing System. All elements are compatible with standard 40mm GM40 NATO gas mask accessories like hoses or filers.

Since not all elements were finally packaged, there might be some difference of what is included in a particular product. To be sure, please check the linked product page. Also, during the test production, they noticed that the black polymer was not as sturdy as they desired. They switched to another one which only comes in a cool looking dark blue. So if you are looking for an all-black aesthetics, this is not for you. Under “typical” blue or red playroom lighting, the dark blue is almost indistinguishable from black.

The heart of the VAST Breathing System is the Rebreather. Like all elements it comes in a nice wooden box with heat-embossed technical drawing of the product on top.

The Rebreather is a switch which either lets fresh air into the system or create a closed-loop rebreathing system. For the closed system either attach a standard breathing bag, a Breath Reducer

… or the Capsule Injector.This is a T-piece with a 6l breathing bag on the one side and a male 40mm NATO thread on the other side. At the bottom is metal screw-in N2O injector. A standard N2O capsule roughly fills 6l thus the size of the breathing bag. If you want to store the toy inside the wooden box, there is space for 24 standard N2O capsules so you can keep the supplies along with the gear.The Capsule Injector also comes with an adapter to attach medical breathing gear.To scent and flavor the air you breath, there are three options. The first is the Bubbler which allows you to breath through a liquid like piss for example. It comes with a 1l bottle.

If you want to enjoy the smell of sox or underwear, go for the Sniffer.

It comes with a 1.5l…

…and a 4l container with a Ø100mm lid so you can easily put the scent carriers inside and retrieve them.

The final option is the Vaporizer.

This is again an easy to turn switch which should be placed between the air-intake of the gas mask and every other breath play accessory you want to add to your setup.

To add the vapors there is a small canister with a 70mm thread into which poppers drenched cotton is placed. Like on the Capsule Injector, there are five spaces to store poppers bottles inside the box.

To use all these toys, you need a piece of gear which covers mouth and nose and has a GM40 ports. The sleekest solution is the combination of a Medical Face Mask combined with the Mask Splitter and attached to the head using the Head Harness made out of Superior Latex.

More elaborate are of course gas masks. For the iconic Avon S10/ FM12 VAST created an Upgrade Kit to turn the standard respirator into a breath play toy.

First there is a stainless steel tool to easily take out the front insert (next week I will post a short How-to use it).

This is replaced with an air-tight  front insert which echos the look of the original. The center can be screwed off and replaced with either…

… tunnel inserts for face fucking with 40mm, 45mm or 50mm internal diameter (if you are more well-endowed, you are out of luck since there is no more space) or…

…. A holder either for a Fleshlight Classic of Fleshlight GO.

Finally, there is a new exhalation valve to enable a closed breathing circuit.

If you do not have an Avon S10/ FM12 gas mask, VAST offers a FM12 with an attached hood.

For connecting the different accessories with each other, VAST offers hoses in 12cm, 15cm, 22cm, 40cm and 42cm length.

To keep everything in place, VAST makes small belts out of their aramid reinforced Superior Latex. They are designed to attach the different gear pieces to their Superior Rubber Y-harness.

Classic Restraints

The Cuffed Classic Restraints

Quick note: ToyTorture.com is still on hiatus until after Ascension. But I have been getting so many questions about the Cuffed Classis Restraints that I decided to take a break from the break and write this review today.

Vendor: Cuffed

Design

The Cuffed Classic Restraints is an entire system of sturdy restraints made out of rubber. Of course they cover the standard anchor points like wrist and ankle. But they also include thigh and biceps ones for total fixation (well, a body belt is missing but that can easily be made out of one big thigh restraint if you e-mail them nicely) or an extra long boot restraint to tie down MX boots up to wrist suspension cuffs.

The Kevlar reinforced Heavy Rubber Strap

The basic design of the Classic Restraints is a cuff-style like its brother the Rubstraints: The inside layer is made out of two layers of .8mm grade latex. This rubber either comes in classic black or in toyred, organge, yellow, white, green and blue. This makes them ideal to either display a hanky cover or add a dash of color to an all black rubber outfit. There is not padding like on many leather restraints but the rubber is soft enough to feel comfortable. On both side rubber tubing is encased in the same latex to create a cool piping look. The restraints come in two width: 64mm for the nimbler body parts like wrists and ankles and 101mm for the thighs. The thigh restraints have another layer of the industrial rubber covering the body. Otherwise it would warp too easily.

Onto the restaints body, a belt made out of a double layer of Kevlar reinforced black industrial rubber is riveted. For this two pairs of rivets are used between which a D-ring is housed. The wrist restraints has two D-rings, the ankle restraints have three, all with an internal width of 41mm. The thigh restraints feature five D-rings with 53mm with. One end of the belt is equipped with a roller buckle and a locking pin, on the other side there are rivet-reinforced belt holes. If you want to use to locking pin, you can fasten the belt until the third last hole.

The Roller Buckle and Locking Pin

The locking pin has a 4mm hole so most standard locks for restraint locking should fit. If you don’t have locks, I would not recommend buying the ones Cuffed is selling! They are made out of brass, the standard for locks even in the BDSM community – at least when it comes to leather. Brass is one the metals that can cause rubber cancer which is an unfixable! It frankly baffles me that a shop specializing in rubber is selling brass locks. If you want to lock these restraints, either buy aluminum or stainless steel padlocks (my choice are Abus Titalium but there are many other options) or use seals often used on chastity cages.

Like all rubber and latex items, these restraints require special care and handling. Most important: Keep them away from oil and fat, including and especially Crisco! These substances will destroy the rubber! Since there is always a thin film of oil on the human skin, rubber should be washed after each scene either using simple, non-moisturizing dish soap or a special rubber detergent (my detergent of choice is Wonder Wash). Before storing them, make sure they are COMPLETELY dry (often water gets trapped in the tubes used for the piping) and seal the surface either with talcum powder or silicone lube to keep the rubber from oxidation. But regardless how well you take care of the Rubstraints, how thoroughly you clean and protect them from oxidation, they – like all rubber and latex times – will over time get old and finally break! So use them often and well to get the most fun out of them.

The Triple Layer Thigh Restraint

If you want to learn more about rubber and latex, the perfect care and its appeal, check out my Rubber 101.

Playing with the Classic Restraints

This part of the review starts the same way as the review of their Rubstraint brother did 1 ½ years ago: These are rubber restraints the work and can take a beating – just like high quality leather restraints. Period. Most of the force of struggling and fighting is caught by the heavy rubber belt which can take a beating! One testee said “How secure can rubber restraints be?” He was surprised how well they tied him down. And he got really horny when he heard the clicking sound of the padlock through the locking post, realizing the he was now inescapable fettered with rubber in his latex catsuit.

The D-Ring Housing from the Bottom and the Top

Since the basic design with the latex piped lining is the same as on their brothers, the restraint can be worn on bare skin also when struggling hard without chafing.  But there is one major difference between the Classic Restraints and the Rubstraints: The latter has the industrial grade Velcro patch to align both ends of the restraints which is a nifty feature. While the latex of the body is soft and smoth, the tubes for the piping are stiff. This leads to one of the restraint breaking out when putting it on or even slipping when the sub is struggling. When wearing the cuffs are an accessory and putting the wrist restraints on on your own this is especially annoying. It sometimes took me several attempts to shackle the cuffs on my sub and chuckled a bit seeing an experienced to failing for a minute or so to fetter me until his pride allowed him to ask for a third, helping hand. Since rubber (ceteris paribus) does not get broken in, it is going to stay this way. Yes, it is annoying but over time you learn how to handle these restraints.

The Metal Gate Width Difference of the Rubstraint (left) and Classic (right)

Like on most restraints, D-rings are used as attachment points. And since each Classic Restraint has at least two, there are ample of fixation and bracing possibilities. They are wide enough to house more than one rope, tension strap or carabiner and even chains up to 6mm wire strength can be run through them.

An important thing to note is that the metal gate behind the roller buckle which aligns the belt is narrower than the gates on the Rubstraints! Because of this the belt system of Rubstraints is not compatible with the Classic restraints.

Since the Classic Restraints are made out of the same material as the Rubstraints the smell almost obscenely off latex! To protect them from sun light, I store them in a box and opening it releases a cloud of intoxicating rubber smell. And being made out of rubber they can be shined like rubber gear. If they get a bit dull, just take out silicone oil and shine them as glossy as you like them.

Conclusion: Sturdy and colorful rubber restraints.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Sturdy enough even for heavy bondage scenes and strong subs A bit difficult to put on and keep aligned Wrist Restraints 129€
Ankle Restraints 129€
Will age over time and will eventually break
Colorful restraint body
Intense rubber smell and feel Biceps Restraints 129€
More than one anchor point Thigh Restraints 239€
Locking Pin Boot Restraints 249€
Suspension Restraints 299€
Collar 129€

What to Gift ToyTorture?

Roll call! Who wants to get me something for my birthday? Nobody? Well, if anyone should change their mind, you still have six weeks to get me something 😉

The House of Bascanio Padded & Locking M5 Muzzle

Seriously, question I get asked most in online chats or conversations in bars or clubs is “You have tested everything! Is there any sex or kink toy you still need or want?” The easy part first: Need? Most certainly not! As much as I am fascinated by cleverly designed kink toys, with a bag of pervertables I can recreate the same effect though not the feeling! But because I am fascinated by cleverly designed kink toys there is a neverending lists of toys I would love to add to my collection. The selection is highly subjective because these are the toys I find personally intriguing without considering review requests. Before I write my top 5ish toys, please note: I could write an entire volume of anal toys I want. So I am leaving these toys out.

The Many, Many D-rings on the M5 Muzzle

House of Bascanio M5 Muzzle

If you have been following my bondage reviews you know, the only thing that is better than a D-ring are MOAR D-rings. The M5 Muzzle takes this to the max. How many D-rings can you fit on a head? Apparently the answer is “At least 15!” Are those all necessary? Most certainly not! Judging from my experience, 9 is the max to get the same level of fettering. Maybe even 7 are enough. But who cares? The ingenuity and craftsmanship that have cumulated into the creation into this unique piece of bondage gear in combination with the thick padding make me want to add this muzzle to my collection and put on CERTAIN subs (you know who you are).

Since the M5 Muzzle is such an extravagant piece of bondage gear, I am actually unsure about the design. Would I like it two-tone with red padding? Or just black with red stitching? But I guess in the end the practical pervert  in me would win and go for an all black I can easily clean and treat with black leather oil.

The Mr S Leather Savage Sucks Hood

And apparently my personal taste coincides with you, my reader’s taste. Looking at my little Excel sheet there are literally hundreds of review requests for this toy. So gifting me the toys would be kind of a public service.

Mr S Leather Savage Sucks and Asylum Hood

The Savage Sucks is the perfect addition to the M5 Muzzle! Dehumanizes the wearer, turn him into a multi-layer leather gimp. And if you need his tongual service, unlock the muzzle, let him serve and lock his mouth up again.

The Mr S Leather Asylum Hood

Being perforated it also is the perfect piece of gear for all those subs of me who wants or need to be anonymous. To shatter a common misconception: Even dom tops enjoy the occasional endorphin rush of being handled and played with. Sadly due to Fans-sites their livelihood depends on their image of being pure dom sadists and thus cannot be seen in public riding the pleasurable waves of pain and degradation. A perforated hood they can see through but nobody can see their face would be a great tool for those special Quälgeist visits.

To break with my rule of only five toys, here is another piece of Mr S headgear which I’d love (or hate) to have: The Asylum Hood. Hoods have never been my favorite kind of toy. I simply love to see faces react to induced sensations, lick sweat of the neck of have my ears nibbled. But I also like to have my head played with while intricate things are done. That’s why I love the Asylum Muzzle so much (along with the Bishop Head Harness). A full hood with the same features would be awesome! Just the thought of having soft, rich smelling leather hug my skull while the top adjust the many roller buckles is giving me a boner!

The Only Rubber Catsuite I would Consider

Regulation Streak Side Panel Catsuit

This item is a shocker: Fetish GEAR on ToyTorture.com? A rubber cat suit for ToyTorture? Especially a neck entry one?!

Calm down! Let me explain. Yes, to be honest: Full coverage does not do much for me. For me the tension of natural skin meeting artificial rubber is a very strong kink! Thus black cat suits are just boring for me. Especially should entry ones with their smooth chest. But a guy needs options and should broaden his horizon. So I might give a rubber cat suit a try with this one.

Maybe accessorize with the rubber bulldog harness, biceps restraints for added texture, a nice pair of sneakers and Rubber@Easter LAB can come. Naturally I would choose a black suit with red panels and strips to really pop when I am lying in the dark in the wellness hammock.

Small and Evil – The Fetters Headtrap

Since I am a Blackstyle Medium, what should I choose with Regulation?

Fetters Headtrap

Why this toy is so great, I have already written in the Christmas gift tip. Why I need this toy is easy: My playroom only looks big. With the slopes of the roof it actually has a very small usable footprint. So I need toys and furniture to make the best out of the space.

And for the Headtrap I have already found the perfect spot to store it in between use – or to store my sub away. Sadly, I have not yet had a chance to play with this piece of bondage furniture personally. But from the looks of it, it can probably easily been turned into a spanking horse. Or for party situation, it would be a perfect parking sport for the designated piss gimp.

A Basket of Oxballs Toys

In the past year, Oxballs has released so many great toys I am dying to add to my collection. But  before we come to those:

Oxballs, release the Ergo Plug Monster – NOW! I volunteer as a production sample testee!

The Oxballs Pig-Hole Squeal – Big and Textured, just what I like

In all seriousness: The shape of the Ergo Plug always looked tempting but even in its largest size, it was too small for most ass pigs. The first time I have heard about a Monster size to be in development was in late July/ early August of 2020. Sadly, developing new molds for silicone toys is not as easy as one might think. So cognitively I can understand why it took so long. But anally I crave to get stuFFed with this toy, so I hope Oxballs releases it rather sooner than later. And in rather firmer than softer silicoen.

The Matching Airhole Plug – More Texture

Speaking of soft silicone: The Pig-Hole Squeal and Airhole Plug. The first in black, the latter in red. Perfect combination for a texture junkie like me! And would be a much needed addition to my collection of six Oxballs tunnel plugs. I have already cleared the space in my toy shelve for three new Oxballs anal toys so I am waiting.

If you have been following this website since its earlieast beginnings in the fall of 2012 you know how much love I have had for ball stretching toys. Especially from Oxballs! Stretchers, stackers, slings, splitters – you name it. I have it, I love them. Or rather loved them. Having lost my left testicle last summer and waiting for getting a prosthesis some time this summer, I don’t know if I will ever love these toys like I have before.

… and the matching Vibration Bullets

So these toys represent hope for me! Hope that my beloved lowhangers will look and at least in the hands of another man feel the same! Hope that with their weight the skin will extend again despite the big scar and make my junk as bulky again as it was yesteryear.

The Squeeze is one of my fav ball stratchers because it combines tug with stretch. Adding weights to it or vibration? Count me in!

Is it a ball stretcher? Is it a parachute? It is both!

But I might need some training until I can fit the Squeeze again and here the Tug comes in. I already loved Oxballs Slung though it was a bit cumbersome to put on. This looks better, more fun and screams for “Put me on while lying in a sling, connect me to a thread above the spread bar and let a weight dangle!” This is very specific for my playroom layout but since this is my personally wish list, I shamelessly force my fantasies on you!

 

So much for my dream gifts for what we in Germany call half-round birthday. Let’s see what I will be unwrapping Friday morning in six weeks.

ToyTorture’s Stocking Stuffer IV – Vast Rubber Accessories

The Vast Rubber Bulldog Harness

Rubber was my first fetish so for years I have been looking for proper rubber harnesses to accessorize my many outfits. Sadly, rubber is a rather frail material so if you grab someone by his harness, chances are it will tear.

Now the creative minds behind Vast (formerly Demask Dortmund) come up with something brilliant: Aramid reinforced rubber! They “simply” but a layer of the strong and highly durable material between two layers of garment rubber. In order to avoid latex cancer all trim is stainless steel so neither accessories themselves nor the rubber you are wearing it on will suffer.

The Vast Rubber Milking Jockstrap Harness

Their range started out with a simple bulldog harness with optional cock ring extension and a (rubber) puppy walking harness; finally a model a hyper doggo can really tug on. But also braces, a Sam Browne or a simple belt can be ordered. What I personally find very interesting are the jockstrap or thong like harnesses for holding a milking machine receiver or a vacuum pump cylinder in place. Knowing the creative and perverted mind behind these designs, I am sure now designs like a strap-on harness will be added in the next few months. If you have special needs, do not hesitate to approach them. If the were able to design my bed (no joke), they will also be able to make your twisted wishes come true.

The start of my personal Superios Latex bondage set from Vast Fetish Gear

All items of this range are manufactured in their workshops in Dortmund. While they have just lunched most products in black and red, they can make custom colors for you to match your signature fetish color. I have also seen two-tone design for the harness.  So if you have special wishes and designs, drop them an e-mail.

Update March 2022

I have gotten a two-tone rubber bulldog harness and a set of wrist and ankle restraints and am absolutely in love. Flexible and body-hugging like garment latex, strong like leather! For years I have been looking for a rubber harness that would not „only“ look good but would be strong enough to withstand heavy play. I guess I have found it!

The restraint pair is only the beginning of a full set with biceps and thigh restraints (maybe I even get the collar *shocked faces for my first rubber collar*). Once I have t(r)ied that thorougly, there will be a full review on this website! To compliment the rubber harness, I have asked for thinner biceps straps already. So if rubber is your main kink and you – like me – like to play HARD, watch my Twitter (and ignore my shitposting on there in the meantime).

SeriousToyS Rubber Stirrups

The SeriousToyS Rubber Stirrups

Vendor: Vast

Construction

These are the matching stirrups to the rubber sling I reviewed four years ago. Back then their store was still called Demask Dortmund. Since then they have rebranded to Vast and have set up an online shop which makes purchasing their other awesome toys way easier.

Since they are the matching stirrups, they are made the same way out of the same material: Three layers of 2mm thick industrial rubber have been reinforced with Kevlar for maximum durability. To deliver this durability during suspension, even on a shear-prone material like rubber, they did not simply punch a hole through the three layers or riveted a D-ring under a rubber loop as an anchor point. Instead of this they used stainless steel fittings which cover the first 65mm of the rubber. On The “inside” of the stirrups the metal plate extends beyond the rubber and has a 20mm diameter eyelet hole on top. On the “outside” there is just a stainless steel plate. Both fittings are not attached directly to the rubber but house the rubber between themselves through 4 stainless steel screws (rounded hex head on the inside, acorn nut on the outside).

Detail of the Stainless Steel Fittings

Industrial rubber and metal are tough materials to work with. They require a lot of work to be made “playroom ready”. In the manufacturing process all metal and rubber edges have been painstakingly deburred and given a top notch finished. There is no single rough edge or area that can cause chafing. I would even trust to run ropes through the eyelets.

The rubber is slightly oval shaped, measuring 800mm from one end to the other and being 100mm wide in the middle. The overall length is 860mm from metal tip to metal tip. In the product picture on the website they come with a two simple carabiners. I guess I have gotten those too but actually cannot remember.

Detail of the Three Layers of Kevlar Reinforced Industrial Rubber

Playing with the Rubber Stirrups

Don’t let yourself be fooled by the ambivalent website description: This toy is made out of rubber, not vinyl! And it has the smell to prove it! I have bought these stirrups in October of 2019 and they still smell like a fresh rubber suit! A smell fetishist friend of mine love putting a guy with rank sox into those so he can alter between the sox and the rubber smell.

The SeriousToyS Ruber Stirrups Attached to My SeriousToyS Rubber Sling

Speaking of fetishists, these stirrups are made for gearheads! Not only because of the material and the rough & heavy duty aesthetic but because of the size. Most leather or nylon stirrups are large enough to more or less comfortable enter with slim sneaker like Nike TNs. Combat boots are already a struggle to get in and especially out of. And as soon as it comes to bulkier sneakers like Nike Shox (sorry, I only wear Nikes and do not know any Adidas sneaker) or MX boots they do not fit through all other commercial stirrups I have encountered so far. Unlike the SeriousToyS ones! Using professional carabiners to connect the eyelets, you get a clear height of 360mm and a width of 170mm. That is plenty of space for most fetish footwear. If you have really large feet, use individual carabiners for each eyelet to increase the clear height and width even more.

The SeriousToyS Rubber Stirrups are especially made for heavy and messy play. Lube and other substances clean easily off the rubber. And since it is industrial rubber, it requires well less maintenance than the sheet rubber used for fetish clothing. If you want to, you can of course shine the rubber with silicone oil. Though since the lower calf will rest inside the stirrups I would not recommend it.

Detail of the Eyelets

The corresponding sling was used to suspend a Smart car in the on one anchor point. Since the same material and manufacturing process are used, I am very confident this toy will have approximately the same breaking load. And while I would not recommend using this toy to lift your car, I actually use the stirrups as torso support belts in suspension bondage scene. With a few chains and a strong suspension spread bar, they double as a basic sit sling!

For all this kind of “perverterable” scenes, I wish, Vast would offer individual and/ or longer ones for sale. For a proper sit sling you need a third one for back support and for heavier people longer ones would also be great for suspension scenes. But at the moment, especially looking at the price of even simple leather stirrups, these offer incredible value for money! And if you are a rubber fetishist who strives towards an all rubber playroom, there is now nearly as good alternative on the market.

Conclusion: The best, largest and most vers rubber stirups on the market.
Pros Cons Where to get Price
Only reliable rubber stirrups on the market Only comes in one size Vast 99€
Cold on initial skin contact
Extremely well made
Easy to clean
Made for heavy duty play
With a bit of creativity, versatile usage

ToyTorture’s Stocking Stuffer III – Fetters Portable Bondage Board

Fetters Portable Bondage Board equipped with Cuff Restraints

This year again, many kinksters will wish for their own playroom for Christmas. Having lived in dorms and with roommates, I am painfully aware that this wish often takes time to become true. So as the third Christmas gift recommendation I want to show you the Fetter Portable Bondage Board (which I have now reviewed in December 2021).

The board measures 107x612cm and features a total of 14 D-rings, 6 on the side and 2 on each end. So regardless if you are a rigger or using cuff style restraints with carabineers like me, it offers opportunities for many different bondage positions. Since it is thickly padded it is comfortable to kneel or lay in it for extended periods of time. As a cover material, you can choose between leather or a water- and oil-proof material. While looking at all the great leather gear I own from Fetters, the leather quality will be top notch, soft and smelling awesome, I would recommend the Rubluxe. From this material sweat can be easily wiped off and the bondage board can double as an underpacking for fisting – regardless if you prefer Crisco or excess Jlube.

The Rubluxe cover makes the foldable Bondage Board Waterproof

So far, it is also a good piece of bondage furniture for people with a playroom. But: The board can be folded in the middle! Then it only measures 53x61cm and at 10cm height, it can be easily stores away under a bed or in a wardrobe (IKEA Pax are 70cm deep ;)). At 10kg, it is a bit on the heavier side to travel with. But especially if you travel by car, I am certain you will get your effort’s worth at events like Folsom Europe.

Regardless of the cover material, the Fetters Portable Bondage Board costs £245 at Regulation in London.

ToyTorture’s Stocking Stuffer I – Cuffed Classic Rubber Restraints

The Cuffed Classic Restraints Color Range

It has become a time-honored tradition that during the period we call Advent in Germany which means the four Sundays before Christmas I write about some toys that I would love to review but not yet had a chance to add to my playroom.

Two weeks ago I reviewed the Rubstraints from Cuffed and to put is mildly that review apparently stroke a chord. With the Segufix lock and all black or authentic medical restraint color scheme they mean business.

The Cuffed Classic Restraints Full Set

But rubber has always had the appeal of leathers cheekier, more lighthearted and more colorful brother and Cuffed caters to that with their Classic line. With a small locking pin instead of a Segufix lock and D-rings instead of gates they look more like classic cuff restraints – just like their name implies. But the greatest feat: They come in color! The piping around the edge and the body comes in blue, gree, yellow, orange, red and white so you’ve almost got a rainbow. This color range should cover the major (accent) colors used in rubber gear if you want to accessorize your outfit or are pedantic about matching colors when tied down. The Classic Restraints come for neck, biceps, wrist, thigh and ankle. So if you are VERY color-brave, you can use them to signal at least four different hanky codes. And if you ask nicely, I am sure Cuffed will be able to make you restraints also in teal, fuchsia, beige or whatever else floats your boat.

The range starts at 89€ for a puppy collar and ends at 199€ for thigh restraints. If you are interested in the entire set, they sell that for 675€ though then you have to write an e-mail for your color mix and match hanky set 😉

Rubstraints

The Cuffed Rubstraints with Various Connectors

Vendor: Cuffed

Rubber is one of the major fetishes out there and was actually my first fetish (more on that in some rare personal words at the end of this review). Often, a rubber fetish comes along with a love for bondage (rubber drones being forcefully reprogrammed anyone?). Sadly due to rubber being a fragile material and complex to process – especially when you want to compensate the fragility – there are few “good” rubber restraints out there. So many people mix rubber gear with leather restraints which for a true and only rubber lover is a painful compromise and thus messages asking for product recommendations in that regard are frequent. So when my dear friend StormWolf from Belgium drew my attention to the Cuffed restraints during his visit to Darklands earlier this year, I was thrilled and amazed because they looked very promising. Not wanting to anticipate the final verdict too much but they exceeded my expectations.

Design

The Rubstraints follow the design of all premium cuff-style restraints: A soft body that hugs tightly around the joint is connected to a sturdy belt that absorbs the force of the struggling sub. Unlike their leather cousins, the body is not padded but made out of two layers of 0.9mm grade rubber. Along the long edges of the body runs a rubber tubes covered in thin rubber to create the impression of piping. Onto the body, a double layer of Kevlar reinforced industrial rubber is riveted. On one side a rough patch of Velcro is glued and riveted on the belt while a small fleecy patch is at the other end of the body. The second belt houses two stainless steel gates with a clearing above the rubber of 11x51mm, a locking pin and roller buckle. There are 10 rivet-reinforced holes for closing the buckle. If you want to used the locking pin, you can fasten the belt up to the 7th hole (if you use the widest setting of the Velcro the 6th hole).

Detail of the Rubstraint’s Metal Closing & Locking Trims

For the locking mechanism Cuffed uses genuine Segufix locking pins, locks and keys so you can mix and match with your existing set. What sets them apart from standard Segufix equipment is that 11mm below the top, there is a 4mm hole drilled into the locking pin. This hole is designed to lock the restraints onto your sub if the Segufix locks seem to unsecure for you. However, since the top of the hole is aligned with the bottom of the Segufix lock neither my testees (useing ABUS Titalium) nor me (using Master Lock, please don’t ask my which line…) could find a lock which shackle was long enough which body was thin enough to fit below the lock. So you have to choose between the Segufix and the padlock. Alternatively, use seals like the ones for chastity cages so at least you know when your sub broke out.

Two Rubstraints connected using the Shorty Connector

The two restraints I have used for this review are wrist and ankle restraints. The wrist restraints cover a joint circumference of 14cm to 22cm, the ankle restraints 20cm to 28cm. A question I genuinely get often in regard of other restraints: If you have thin ankles, you can of course use wrist restraints on them or vice versa if you have strong wrists! Especially the industrial rubber is stiffer than leather. So the restraints have little give. Furthermore the basic tension inside the restraints means that the buckle pin will not rest on the roller when you just leave one hole between the buckle and the locking pin.

Along with the restraints themselves, you can order various connection belts. They are made out of the same Kevlar reinforced industrial rubber as the belts on the restraints and are just wide enough to perfectly fit inside the stainless steel gates. But since they do not have skin contact, they are not lined with soft latex. The core of each of these connectors is a Segufix locking pin. For the basic Shorty connector there are two rivet-reinforced holes. If you push them over the locking pin they create two loops for connecting two restraints. Another iteration of this design adds a stainless steel gate perpendicular to the rubber belt. For longer distances there are also adjustable, there are belts out there (ingenious product naming!). Instead of having just two holes wide enough apart to create the loops, the have a traditional belt hole layout. Additionally they are equipped with two stainless steel gates for added connectivity.

Detail of the Latex Body and Industrial Rubber Belts

Nota bene: While for this review I only looked at the cuffed restraints most often used in bondage, Cuffed created an entire system around the design also featuring collars, biceps and thigh restraints or a wide bondage belt. So they have gotten you covered for more elaborate or stricter bondage scenes.

If you have a medical/ asylum fetish that is not satisfied by the professional lock system Cuffed offers some of the restraints, belts and connectors off the rack with a tan belts and beige bodies. I am sure if you want other restraints from the system currently not included in this collection like the thigh restraints, they are open for custom commissions.

Like all rubber and latex items, the Rubstraints require a bit special care. Most important: Keep them away from oil and fat, including and especially Crisco! These substances will destroy the rubber! Since there is always a thin film of oil on the human skin, rubber should be washed after each scene either using simple, non-moisturizing dish soap or a special rubber detergent (my detergent of choice is Wonder Wash). Before storing them, make sure they are COMPLETELY dry (often water gets trapped in the tubes used for the piping) and seal the surface either with talcum powder or silicone lube to keep the rubber from oxidation. But regardless how well you take care of the Rubstraints, how thoroughly you clean and protect them from oxidation, they – like all rubber and latex times – will over time get old and finally break! So use them often and well to get the most fun out of them.

The Logo printed inside the Cuffs

If you want to learn more about rubber and latex, the perfect are and its appeal, check out my Rubber 101.

Playing with the Rubstraints

This is the first time I have ever written this about a piece of rubber bondage gear (except body bondage items lick sleeping bags): They work as well as their leather counterparts. The latex piped lining creates a soft and sharp edge-free surface that can actually be worn on bare skin over extended periods of time – even on a struggling sub! – without chafing. The thought-out placing of the rivets that connects the body to the belt diverts most of the force of a struggling sub to only the belt which is strong enough to deal even with strong subs. A testee submitted a body builder sub of his to tough e-stim torture and there was no noticeable wear and tear on the rubber or the rivets. So any rubber scene, any latex fantasy you would normally resort to using leather restraints can be turned into reality using the Rubstraints.

Detail of the Velcro

The most noticeable design difference to leather restraints is that as anchor points the Rubstraints use gates instead of D-rings. While this is an unusual decision I actually like the look at lot. It adds to the sleek, technical look and feel the thick, hard-edged rubber belts create. A drawback is that threading rope is difficult and attaching climbing carabiner is impossible. This is a very personal opinion and play preference of (most of) my testees and me but in our opinion “classic” rope clashes a bit with the modern look. “Rough” chain (with shackles as connectors) or “high-tech” nylon tension straps are a better match. The great advantage of gates are that if tied with enough tension and facing towards the short sides, the bondage medium stays in the corner and does not travel towards the apex like they have the tendencies on D-rings.

The Belt connected to a 90 Connector

The gates are also the foundation to incorporate the belt-style accessories. This is what set the Rubstraints really apart from all the other cuff style leather restraints I have reviewed and played with so far. The rubber straps being almost as wide as the gates, there is little vertical wiggle room so they create a stricter bondage than a carabiner would. Since they come in a variety of length, the severity of the bondage can be adjusted. For example, instead of using a belt to connect the ankle restraints and limiting the movement of the sub, a testee used the short Shorty which leave about 50mm of movement space. This leave the sub the theoretical possibility of walking around but practically it take a lot of practice to not fall over his own feet. Practice, easily enforces when tugging on his collar. Due to the added gate, the 90 are a bit wider (and actually come in two sizes).  While they take a bit away the strictness between the limbs, they add versatility. Now you can connect the two restraints pairs with either a short belt for a hogtie or a longer one when for a standing sub to create an interesting way to limit his movements (every time he takes a step, there will be a tugging on his wrists which especially when tied tightly behind his back adds another difficulty level). If you are more of a sadist, add a (spiked) parachute to his balls, run the rope through the gate and attach a weight. In this instance, the rope will travel from one corner to the other, causing the weight to swing, making the sub move and the weight swings more. There are many, creative, vicious and aesthetical pleasing ways to play with the connector. On the website from Cuffed there is a short, still extending guide with examples. So check this out if you need more inspiration. Another benefit of the rubber connectors are that they do not disturb the clean all-rubber and steel look the Rubstraints laid the basis for.

The Genuine Segufix Lock with Genuine Key

And last but definitely not least: The fetish aspect. They smell like a good piece of rubber gear should smell. The smell is so intense that opening up the box I store them in feels like opening my rubber closet. As for the looks the industrial rubber of the belts can either be high-shined to match latex suits yet is dull enough to appeal to the lovers of the rougher, dry or hazmat suit look. Other testee subs loved the Segufix lock. They bring a professional and heavy duty feel to the restraints. Especially a blindfolded sub familiar with the Segufix system will know what the faint and subtle “click” means when the lock is pushed over the locking pin.

A Personal Word from ToyTorture

Despite all the personal experience I try to make these reviews as objective as possible. So I have never written a truly personal opinion about a toy. But given the circumstances, I feel it necessary for this toy.

Rubber was my first true fetish and slowly venturing into the fetish, kink and BDSM scene, I first struggled a bit with good bondage gear were only available in leather. So locking back at my own past, I was genuinely excited for these restraints. When I opened the parcel, a wave of intoxicating rubber smell hit me! It was almost like Rubber@LAB – minus the smell of piss and poppers. I got them end of August and I was SO locking forward to using them on me, on subs, as photo prop. But due to the current circumstances, I only managed to get a few scenes as a top with them and was glad that I have testees with live-in subs to get more opinions on the toy for a review as you would expect it of ToyTorture.com.

ADarkGuy hogtied by ToyTorture using the Rubstraints

Yet still, every time I open the storage box for the Rubstraints in my playroom and smell the rubber and I see the shiny surface and feel the cold stainless steel I am heart-broken that a toy holding so much potential, so many fantasies inside them is just laying dead and unused in a box. So I truly hope that things will get better soon, that some time next year, I will lock these restraints around a rubber sub at Quälgeist or join one of my tops to Rubber@LAB. But for the moment these excellent pieces of bondage gear, German art of engineering and craftsmanship are a good example for all the things to look forward to once this pandemic is over.

Conclusion: The most effective, sturdy, fetish-please, thought-out and high quality rubber restraints.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Sturdy enough even for heavy bondage scenes and strong subs Will age over time and will eventually break Rubstraints Wrist Cuffs 169€
Rubstraints Ankle Cuffs 169€
Intense rubber smell and feel
Shorty Connector (2 pieces) 34,90€
Two anchor points 90 Connector 24,90€
Thought-out accessory system 90 Long Connector 29,90€
Belt 50 39,90€
Belt Back 59,90€

SeriousToyS Pain Paddle

The Serious Toy Pain Paddle

Vendor: Vast

Ever since I reviewed my rubber paddle, there has been a steady stream of reader questions about alike paddles. There are few out there but I keep my eyes open for them especially when visiting stores which carry an unusual assortment and manufacture their own toys – like Demask Dortmund does with this rubber paddle.

Design

There are three different designs available: The Ping Pong Paddle which like the name implies has a round impact area and the Small and Large Paddle. I went to the small one because it is just large enough to hit both cheeks yet nimble enough to hit a single one.

Detail of the Three Rubber Layer

The design is fairly standard. The impact area measures 235x75mm and has a half circle shape at the top. 25mm into this area protrudes the overall 160mm long handle, making the toy overall 375mm long. The impact area is made out of three layers of fabric reinforced industrial rubber. It has a thickness of 6mm which makes it rigid enough for a severe impact yet flexible enough for serious smack. The edges are lightly deburred preventing them from cutting the skin but giving them a stingy edge.

The rubber layers extend all the way through the handle. It is screwed between wood wedge using stainless steel machine screws. Each wedge is about 15mm tall making the handle a bit chunky for small hands despite all edges being rounded for a comfortable grip. The paddle comes in two wood varieties: Light and dark brown. But since I misplaced the note where I wrote down out of which woods they are made, I have to give this piece of information later. At the end of the handle a waxed leather string is forming a loop for easy storage and securing the paddle around the wrist during long scenes.

Detail of the Loop

SeriousToyS sells these toys with a 10 year warranty. But to be honest, I cannot see how you could ever break this paddle during normal, heavy usage…

Playing with the Pain Paddle

The paddle truly lives up to its name: It is a paddle that brings pain. When you really get to know the paddle, you can use it even for warm-up or drive a bottom nuts with light taps (I especially recommend the nuts for that). But at the core, the Pain Paddle is a nasty stinger! Even light slaps sting and through the flexibility create a noticeable sound. Putting more kinetic energy into it, will quickly make the pain agonizing! This made the Pain Paddle one of the impact implements of choice when I want to make a bottom scream quickly. Being so light and flexible, the paddle is a bit prone to lessening the blow through the air cushion between the skin and the paddle. I hope they are going to make a holed version of this paddle for even more intense pain!

Detail of the Handles Gorgeous Wood

Through being so light, the Pain Paddle is not a bruised. It quickly reddens the skin though and makes the targeted body area tender but the coloring does not last for long. But do not mistake this paddle for being a lightweight: Over the course of long scenes, it can break the skin! This made the paddle my favorite for “quick & dirty” session: High intensity over short period of time for people who must not show markings because for example they feel uncomfortable with bruises in the gym shower.

Speaking of dirty: The paddle is ideal for playing in group settings where multiple bottoms are taken care off during a night. Regardless if the bottom sweats a lot, the impact presses tissue water out or his skin breaks, releasing blood, the impact area can be cleaned and disinfected easily. The handle of course must be treated with greater care, being made out of wood. Maybe the will release a stainless steel/ aluminum version at some of time, to create a paddle you can literally throw into bleach.

Conclusion: Severe, handcrafted rubber paddle
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Intense pain sensation Handle is a bit large for small hands

Wooden handle makes cleaning a bit more effortful

Vast 79€
Colors quickly, does not leave long-lasting marks

Rubber Bondage Sleepsack

The Torso of the Libidex Rubber Bondage Sleepsack

Vendor: Libidex

I do not review many rubber bondage items, mainly because I am maybe a bit too active sub to be contained by them and I am too lazy to clean them. But there are good reasons for some rubber bondage gear and I am more than happy to finally answer one of the most asked bondage gear question in this review.

Construction

Like the name of this toy already implies, it is tailored like a bodyfit sleepsack, a tight cocoon to envelop the body in latex. Unlike the sleepsacks made for camping this one only has a standing collar instead of an opening for the whole body. Also, the bottom has a shaped upward facing section for the feet. To get into the sleepsack, there are two zipper options: Either on top or on the bottom of the sleepsack, both running from the collar to the feet from. Mine has the top zipper for three reasons: First, from my experience with other sleepsacks, front access is way more important than rear access when it comes to sleepsacks. The idea of fucking a bottom inside a sleepsack (for which you would need rear access) is a hot idea, but this is quickly shattered by the reality of the bottom being an immobile “plank” and the zipper irritating the top’s dick. Second, lying on a zipper can be very uncomfortable, especially when the runners are poking you in the back. Finally, getting into a rear-zipper-sleepsack with arm pockets is a pain in the ass. The rear zipper comes with a cleaner look but in my opinion is not worth the disadvantages which comes with it. For a little surcharge you can get the opposite access zipper added to your sleepsack too.

As already implied, the Libidex Bondage Sleepsack is equipped with arm pockets which are really well designed. They open up deep enough inside the sleepsack to allow people with thick chest and shoulder muscles to comfortably get into and stay in them. Furthermore they are really deep so people with long arms do not have problems.

Detail of the Sleepsack’s Arm Pockets

The Bondage Sleepsack (like all Libidex sleepsacks) is made out of 0.8mm rubber. This thickness is a good compromise of sturdiness yet flexibility and stretchiness. The material stretches just enough for easy getting and staying in but still has enough compressing force for the compact, encapsulating rubber bondage feeling. The seams are glued really well and with enough of an overlap to take a bit of beating. In combination with the material thickness, this model can contain a somewhat active sub. But keep in mind that rubber is not nearly as strong as leather! When fettering a bratty sub or going for a painplay scene where the sub will work out the pain, I highly recommend either getting (rubber) belts or tie rope around the sleepsack.

To help keep these means in place, the sleepsack is equipped with welded D-rings with an inner width of 35. Along the side there are four D-ring paris: Above the elbow, over the wrists, above the knee and around the ankles. There is a pair on top of the shoulder, one pair on the collar and finally a single D-ring at the bottom of the feet. The D-rings are attached to the sleepsack using a 30mm wide strap of rubber which is reinforced with a 15mm wide strap of fabric striping. Through this striping there are two rivets on each side which are covered by rubber patches in the inside. This is not only good for potential allergy reasons but the sweat and other liquids accumulating inside the sleepsack would cause rust. As sturdy as the D-rings are attached to the sleepsack, as little I would recommend to use the D-rings for limiting a subs movement by tying the sleepsack down onto a bed frame for example. The chances of the rivets being ripped out of the rubber are too high. Better use the rope as an anchor point.

Detail of the Rivet Cover inside the Sleepsack

Finally, a word in the customization options for the sleepsack: You can choose from 43 colors and sizes ranging from XXS to 4XL free of charge with is the largest selection of colors and sizes I have come across yet. Furthermore there are three length options. I have gotten the tall for being around 1.88m tall and it fits me really well – as well as some of my guests which were as tall as 2.05m.

Playing with the Bondage Sleepsack

While this rubber sleepsack can be used to fetter a sub for pain play, the limitations above apply. When you have an active sub and are not a big fan of additionally wrapping rope, belts or chains around a sub, I recommend getting a leather sleepsack (or if you are a rubber fetishist, get both and layer up).

After having gotten that out of the way, let’s talk about the great sensual quality of a rubber sleepsack. Unlike leather, the rubber stretches and flows over the body like a second skin. This has made the rubber sleepsack the favorite piece of bondage for floaty bondage scenes with my subs. With 0.8mm the material is just thin enough to transmit the light touches of fingers traveling over the body. But the material also picks up movement from a strong massager, causing the latex cocoon to resonate around the application area for a unique feeling. Add to that the temperature conductivity of rubber and an ice cube of metal implement warmed in water can create become a tool on the brink between ecstasy and agony. Though NEVER pour wax over rubber or apply hot, sharp or spiky implements! It will damage the material. Since rubber is non-breathable and despite the good temperature conductivity contains warmth, temperature control and hydration (due to sweating) is a constant issue. Make sure that the room is well heated but not too warm, opening a window with a light breeze going over the bound boy can quickly make him become hypothermic. On the other end of the temperature scale, letting him lay in the sun will make him overheat. All these factors have to be taken into consideration when planning the scene because one inside the sleepsack, moving the bottom is difficult. And getting into a sweat-drenched cold rubber bag is a fetish some very much enjoy but not many.

Detail of the Rubber Stripes Holding the D-rings in Place

Rubber is also a good isolating material. I had great fun teasing a sub with a violet wand electrode running over his body, coming closer or moving away from his exposed genitals and alternating the wand’s intensity, so he never knew when the spark would jump over to his dick. When doing this kind of play, be careful with coming too close to the metal zipper which also conducts and can cause interesting effects…

Since the seams are glued really well, the rubber bondage sleespack is basically one big tub which of cause can be filled with liquids. This starts with dropping an ice cube or two against overheating, continues over the ability to relieve oneself during long-term bondage and ends in being the party urinal when the courtesy piss bottom cannot swallow quickly enough (or being the drain for him). While you can fit almost every smaller body type into even a larger and taller sleepsack, when playing with liquids the body fit should be roughly the one ordered. Otherwise the liquids will flow out of the neck opening.

Detail of the Feet Section of the Sleepsack

When talking about messy things, I have to talk about the biggest pain in the ass with rubber items:  Cleaning and maintenance. You can and have to clean the bondage sleepsack like every rubber item (as described in my Rubber 101). The weight and size makes handling the sleepsack a bit clumsy and due to the attached feet section, getting all liquids out before and after the wash is a bit difficult. Polishing the sleepsack takes a while just as applying talcum in the inside (never forget the arm pockets). And finally, the sleepsack should be stored hanging best to avoid creases. Despite all the hassle, I was surprised how often I use the rubber bondage sleepsack.

Conclusion: Extremely good value for money rubber sleepsack.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Good fit and arm pockets for tight bondage experience Only three runner on the zipper Libidex £299
Material thickness good compromise of bound feeling and sensual qualities Cleaning is a pain in the ass
Plenty of D-rings for additional fettering
Wide range of possible sizes